Heating radiators and plumbing to them often spoil the interior of the room. Especially if the room has old cast-iron radiators, completely devoid of any aesthetic appeal. Therefore, the desire of the owners to hide these elements of the heating system is understandable, but at the same time not to worsen the quality of their work. It is logical to use for these purposes an easy-to-process and affordable material - drywall. How to close pipes with drywall? How to hide radiators so that this does not affect their heating performance?

Design Options

Before you close the battery with drywall, you should analyze the placement of radiators and pipelines in the room. Depending on their location, you can choose one of two options for using drywall:

covering the battery.
A false wall that hides radiators and the supply to them behind its plane.

Options demonstrating how to close the battery with drywall with your own hands are shown in the photo below. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages:

The installation of the box compares favorably with the smaller amount of material required. But such a design does not always organically fit into the interior of the room. In addition, pipes will have to build their own boxes, which will further complicate the task. In addition, the presence of such protrusions will seriously interfere with the installation of suspended ceilings or laying laminate on the floor.

The construction of a decorative wall will require more material consumption, but it will allow you to get a flat plane that can be easily finished in accordance with the overall design of the room. In most cases, such a structure is even easier to build than a box that closes the battery.

Construction of the box

This drywall construction can be fixed to the floor or hung with a gap above its surface. The first option is preferable - so the frame has two planes for support, which makes it stiffer.

There is an opinion that fastening with a cutter is not strong enough. However, when using a professional tool, the connection not only turns out to be very reliable, but also compares favorably with the absence of protruding parts, which is inevitable when using "bugs".

The required number of horizontal jumpers is mounted. The more of them, the more rigid the structure. For a drywall box, 1-2 is enough for each of the planes, with the exception of the front.
Parts of a decorative lattice or a removable screen are attached to the frame.

It is necessary to create a solid structure, any vibrations of the frame after installation are unacceptable.

At the final stage, drywall strips are cut to actual dimensions and fixed with self-tapping screws every 25 cm. Subsequently, the drywall is puttied, fine finishing is carried out in accordance with the general interior of the room.

False wall installation

It is advisable to erect a decorative wall if, in addition to masking the radiators, it is necessary to decide how to close the heating pipes with drywall. With this method, not so much space is lost, but the appearance of the room wins very significantly.

Additional guides will be required if there is a window on the wall: they are useful for attaching slopes. It is advisable to place a couple more profiles at a distance of 10 cm on each side of the radiator - for mounting a decorative grille.
Using a square, the marking lines are transferred to the floor and ceiling, their length is the distance from the most protruding part of the radiator (usually a tap) to the wall plus 10 cm.

In the design of the decorative wall, it is necessary to provide technological openings for access to taps and other parts of the pipeline for preventive maintenance or inspection. Such inspection hatches are subsequently decorated with a fine finish and become invisible in the general interior.

After marking, the frame is assembled. Its installation is not fundamentally different from the assembly of a box or other drywall construction, so it makes no sense to give a detailed sequence of operations. The metal frame for the false wall will differ from the construction of the box in a large number of horizontal jumpers. They are needed not only for joining drywall sheets, but also for stiffening. Experts recommend installing these elements every 60 cm, securely attaching them to the racks using self-tapping screws or a notcher.

Elements cut from drywall are attached to the frame. When deciding how to close the radiators in an apartment with drywall, you should choose a moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard: such a wall will not suffer from condensate that forms on pipes, or in case of possible leaks in the heating system.

Batteries, faucets are the least visible, so that they perform their functions.

What you need to know

There are many options for how to hide the heating battery. You can, of course, purchase designer radiators made to order and suitable for a certain style. But the main disadvantage of such a heater is considered to be a very high price.

Sewing batteries, for example, with drywall, is inconvenient, because in the event of an accident or a scheduled inspection, you will have to perform complex dismantling.

This article offers several options for devices that help to inexpensively and beautifully design a heating radiator in any room.

However, while decorating, one should not forget about the direct purpose of the heating system, which, first of all, should warm up the home, and not only attract attention with an original and stylish design. Therefore, when thinking about how to hide the battery in a room, you need to consider several important aspects:

Convection air flows should not have obstacles in their path. This will ensure uniform heating of the room and will not allow the windows to fog up.
Threaded connections and radiators must be in the access zone; for this, when making a decorative design, a window or removable elements (for example, a small hinged door) should be provided.
The thermal head, tap and other adjusting parts of the system must be available for repair work.

Hinged screen

The most popular way to decorate batteries is a hinged screen or grille. Such structures are usually made of metal and have several advantages:

Easy to install: the hinged screen is hung on the radiator.
Heat exchange is not disturbed.
Grilles often have rounded corners, making them safer.

When choosing a hinged structure, you should know that they are of two types: for one-sided and two-sided pipe connections. Hanging screens can be made independently.

Glass screens

Modern interior styles require more original solutions when masking the heating system. For example, you can try to install glass screens made of thick refractory glass. They are often decorated with photo printing, stained glass patterns and images. Glass screens are sold in design workshops and are not cheap. Sleek designs are very easy to install. They are mounted on special screw holders, equipped with elastic gaskets that protect the glass surface. To fix the screen, you need to drill several holes in the wall.

The variety of screens is very large. The advantage of the design is their originality, ease of installation and ease of operation. Screens are chosen in accordance with the size of the radiators, and their appearance depends only on the owner's imagination and his financial capabilities.

Frame made of wooden beams

Wooden frames, which cover, for example, a radiator under a window, look great in any interior. They look especially harmonious in a room furnished with wooden furniture. The advantages of wooden decorations are that they can be used as shelving for household utensils or souvenirs, as coasters, tables, low structures are used as benches. An additional use of the frame depends on its height and horizontal surface area. The appearance of such a decoration is completely dependent on the owner's imagination and the level of his skill.

The algorithm of work consists in performing the following actions:

Measurements must be taken carefully.
Then you need to cut the bars to size.
Assemble the frame from a thin beam (it should be remembered that the frame must be strong).
Then you need to braid the base with cotton tape or slats.
The finished structure is varnished.

original ideas

For those who do not like to follow the standards, experts offer a number of original solutions. For example, you can close the battery with a picture frame or install blinds. You can build a kind of drywall fireplace or a screen. Let's consider several options.

The picture frame is covered with fabric or wallpaper to match the walls. A home-made design is attached like a regular screen.
To hang the blinds, you need to make a metal frame above the batteries, on which blinds of suitable size are attached.
Fireplaces decorate with themselves the rooms executed in any style. To make a fireplace, you need to prepare:

mesh screen;
several picture frames;
fasteners: self-tapping screws, screws (several pieces).

First you need to close the radiator with a mesh screen. Two picture frames are cut and covered with fabric or wallpaper. Their size should correspond to the side walls of the future fireplace and the top surface. One frame is completely covered: this will be the front of the structure. All frames are fastened together and the mesh screen. Other additions are made at the discretion of the owner: you can install a backlight behind the screen, and add fireplace decorations to the front part.

The battery in the kitchen or in the hallway will be perfectly closed with drywall. From this versatile material, you can build diverse structures. If a solid sheet is used, several holes should be drilled in it, necessary for the circulation of warm air.

If there is a need for urgent masking of the heating system or there is not enough money to complete the capital structure, you can simply sew special curtains, build a small screen, or simply paint the battery to match the color of the walls.

A few highlights

First you need to choose the most effective way of sheathing, which hides all pipes and taps as much as possible, matches the style of the interior of the room and has a neat appearance. In order for the structure to last for a long time, the following points should be considered:

reliability, strength and durability of the heating system (if there are doubts at this point, it is better to build a collapsible casing);
meter, tap, machine and other heat or pressure regulators must be freely available;
the architecture and geometry of the system will affect the shape of the camouflage shields and screens, and a box may need to be designed.

Stages of sheathing pipes and batteries

All work is carried out according to the sketch, and best of all, the exact scheme of the future structure: frame, box or screen.

First of all, you should prepare the necessary tools and materials, as well as fasteners. To work with metal racks and profiles, you will need a drill, screwdriver, screws, self-tapping screws or bolts. Lightweight materials are assembled and fastened with dowels, self-tapping screws, a hacksaw and a drill. In any case, a screwdriver will come in handy.
Next, you should measure the surfaces of the wall for the manufacture of the frame, which is desirable to make a little more than the measurements received. This will ensure normal air circulation.
On liquid nails, a guide is attached to the floor, passing along the wall. Parallel to it, on the wall, a little higher than the pipes that need to be masked, the same bar is attached.
Profile pieces are inserted into the lower guide and secured with screws. The distance between them is approximately 35 cm. Another guide is attached to them, for the strength of the frame.
The same steps are performed for the guide on the wall. The ends of the upper profiles are fastened to the lower profiles. The base is done.
Then it remains only to sheathe the frame with the prepared material, observing the basic rules for accessing heat and pressure regulators.

Video

See how the finished screen for the battery is assembled:

In the apartments built by the hands of Soviet workers, as in some modern buildings, cast-iron radiators are installed. These elements do not always fit the general interior of the room - in this situation, you need to think about how to close the battery with drywall and not reduce the level of heat transfer.

According to the existing housing code and redevelopment rules, heating systems cannot be hidden directly into the wall. But you can close them with an additional wall of alternative material.

How to hang a battery - on drywall and a removable screen

Plasterboard finishing of batteries is more often used - this material allows you to quickly and easily hide the flaw in the room, make the appearance more attractive.

markup

The markup of the future design is carried out using:

measuring tool- roulette, ruler, corner;
descriptive tool- a simple pencil, marker;
precision instrument- building or laser level.

Carrying out this stage, it is desirable to adhere to the exact dimensions, limited to whole centimeters. Millimeters are used only in the case of a particularly precise design, for example, for an established interior project.

Before you sew up the battery with drywall and get rid of its unpleasant appearance, you need to decide which way to terminate the markup:

box - a simpler and faster method of work (only the area of \u200b\u200bthe battery is closed and, literally, 12-20 cm beyond it);
wall - a more time-consuming method (the wall with the radiator installed is completely sealed; if the heater is installed near the window, slopes must be made).

In terms of the amount of work, the termination of batteries according to the first method is simpler: a smaller amount of material is used and a small number of construction processes are carried out. In the second case, even fewer building processes are used, but more material is used.

box

When constructing a box, the design takes up little space, covering a little more space than the radiator itself. The depth of such a box depends on the width of the heater (most radiators are narrower than radiators with metal plates).

Note! The edges of the structure must protrude at least 10 cm beyond the edge of the radiator - otherwise it will not be possible to install a removable screen on the front side.

Instructions for marking the box:

Depending on the required position of the structure, a horizontal strip is drawn. If the box hangs, measure the distance from the floor and use the level to draw a marking line. If the structure rests on the floor, there will be 3 lines (two along the edges - depth, one front - the edge of the structure).
It is necessary to set a corner to the bottom face and draw vertical marks - we achieve a right angle. With the help of the level, we bring the vertical lines to the required size.
The same marks are marked on the vertical lines, between which a connecting segment is drawn.

The result should be a square or a rectangle (in the case of resting on the floor - additionally marking the base).

Wall

After analyzing the room and thinking about how to cover the radiators and pipes with drywall and do it right, the decision to install an alternative wall comes by itself.

The essence of the solution is that together with the radiator, the entire surface to which it is attached is closed. This method is wasteful, since you can get by with small volumes of material by arranging a dotted box. But the wall is the only way to completely hide the heater from the room with your own hands.

For the wall device, the frame is built to the entire height of the room:

With the help of the level, several vertical lines are drawn on the base for the frame. Step - 60-100 cm. Mandatory lines for profiles in the corners of the room.
From each vertical line it is necessary to extend to the floor. For this, a corner is used. The depth of the floor lines is equal to the width between the main wall and the alternate.
Similar to the floor, lines are drawn on the ceiling - of equal depth and strictly parallel.
The last marking lines are drawn above and below the heater, at a distance of 7-10 cm.

Marking is also carried out on the sides of the radiator - along the perimeter of the device, profiles are needed in which a removable screen will be installed. But to get rid of unnecessary work, you can make basic markings (which are the entire height of the room) directly on the sides of the radiator.

Frame device

Before you close the heating battery with drywall, decorating the interior of the room with this, you need to arrange a frame. For its construction, metal channel-shaped profiles are used, 60-70 mm wide.

In total, in the process of doing the work you will need:

profiles - as the main frame;
screws (40-60 mm) - fastening the structure;
dowels (40-60 mm) - fastening in the surface;
scissors for metal - for cuts, if necessary, bending the metal;
pliers, screwdriver, drill or puncher - an auxiliary tool.

The profiles that are adjacent to the wall are attached first.

On our site you can watch a lot of videos on the construction of frames for drywall, but the main instruction is as follows:

a metal profile is attached by either side or center to the marking line;
a screwdriver leaves a small mark on the wall;
a puncher makes a recess for the size of the mount;
a dowel is inserted into the hole made;
a profile is attached to the prepared place;
fastening is carried out with a screw.

After attaching the metal to the wall, bastings are made in increments of 15-25 cm. Holes are prepared immediately for the entire profile.

By the described process, all the necessary parts of the frame are attached. In the case of attaching a corner of two elements, you need to cut the necessary parts with metal scissors.

When the parts that are attached to the wall are installed, we move on to the depth of the frame:

we cut parts of the profiles of the required size;
we cut both edges of the element at the place of the fold by 4-5 cm;
bend the middle down, and cut the sides to the width of the profile channel shelf;
we attach the segments to the edges of the main long elements at an angle of 90 degrees towards the room.

The last part is connecting the upper and lower short parts, elements.

Note! When constructing a wall covering the battery, long vertical metal elements are used, so two short ones at the top and bottom are not enough - at least 4-5 pieces are needed.

The frame in finished form should be a strong structure, not stagger. If the frame staggers, it means that the fastening was not carried out qualitatively, or there are not enough additional short elements.

Assembly of the structure

The most difficult steps in resolving the issue of how to close the radiator with drywall and not deprive the room of heat were left behind. If everything is prepared, installation is a simple procedure.

Drywall fastening is carried out according to the following method:

a sheet of material is attached to a metal base;
a descriptive tool marks the place of the cut - this is how the material is marked into the necessary pieces;
the prepared part is attached to the corresponding part of the frame and fastened with a screw.

The pitch of the screws when fixing the material in the battery box is 10-15 cm, an example of the location of the fasteners can be seen in the photo above.

It is better to prepare and fasten one part of the material, if you cook everything at once, you can make a mistake due to protruding corners in some places.

Note! When screwing in a screw, it is important to feel the measure - if you put the fastener too deep, you can damage the front side of the drywall.

A removable screen should cover the radiator for ventilation and heat transfer to the room. Its first part, the inner one, is attached to the metal even before working with drywall. Then the main material is arranged, and the removable, outer part of the screen is put on at the last stage.

Finishing work

When dealing with the question of how to close the battery in a room with drywall and not spoil the interior, it is important not to use radically new colors. The best option is to arrange a box or an alternative wall in the general colors of the room. But first you need to prepare the surface for the final finish.

The finishing process proceeds according to the following principle:

Sealing joints between parts of drywall (see also article about). To do this, a small piece of a sickle mesh is superimposed on the seam, then the joint is smeared with putty.
Fastener attachment. It is carried out according to a similar technique - serpyanka and putty.
Puttying the entire structure (see also the article). With the help of spatulas, the entire surface of the product is puttied, whether it be a box or a wall. When the mixture dries, it is leveled by cleaning it with fine sandpaper.

The final stage is the finishing of the product - often it is painting or wallpapering. It is better to use the material that is more in line with the overall interior of the room, if its price, of course, is within the budget.

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How to close radiators and pipes with drywall: 12 issues that are relevant when repairing

In any house there are engineering communications: pipes of gas, water supply, heating and sewerage. Without them, your apartment will lose its comfort; however, pipes left in plain sight rarely decorate housing. In my article, I will talk about ways to hide highways and the limitations associated with this.

Gas

Is it possible to hide gas pipes in an apartment?

Where there are no threaded connections on them - of course. Gas-fired steel pipes, provided that the paint on their surface is preserved, do not rust and do not wear out, their service life is practically unlimited.

Exception: do not close the steel gas pipe at the entrance to a private house. In winter, when the temperature outside is noticeably lower than in the house, the cooling of the inlet at gas flow will cause condensation to form on it. On an open pipe, it will quickly evaporate, and on a closed pipe it will lead to rust over time.

Is it possible to close gas pipes with drywall on a galvanized frame?

The material of the box or niche at a distance from the stove does not matter. Absolutely any finishing materials can be used - GKL, GVL, wall panels, plywood, OSB, etc. But near the plate for the box, it is better to use non-combustible materials, including drywall.

Is it possible to sew up a gas pipe at the connection to the gas meter?

No. All threads, taps in front of gas appliances and the meter itself must be accessible for dismantling and maintenance. With a leak at any connection, the accumulation of gas in the box is simply dangerous, besides, it will interfere with identifying this leak and carrying out repair work. Do not forget about the need to verify the meter: after a few years it will have to be removed.

Heating

Central

Is it possible to close a heating riser under drywall?

It is possible, but with a number of restrictions. The steel riser should be replaced with a corrugated stainless pipe with maintenance-free compression fittings and only with it, not only from floor to ceiling, but also in both ceilings - common with lower and upper neighbors.

Steel pipes are notoriously prone to corrosion. The first through fistulas appear where the metal is thinner - on the threads of the eyeliners and on the welds.

In addition, a solid pipe with a constant wall thickness rusts the fastest in the ceiling - with quite predictable consequences.

Replacing black steel pipes with galvanized steel increases the service life of the riser and connections many times over: after half a century of operation, the opened pipes in steel pipes do not differ in condition from new ones. However, they can only be assembled on threads: in the area of the weld, the zinc burns out completely.

Reference: the melting point of steel is 1300 - 1400C. The boiling point of zinc is about 900C. By welding galvanized steel, you get a pipeline that has only a price left from galvanized steel: the seams will rust in the same way as a black steel pipe.

Well, each thread is a place of a potential leak: flax burns out over time, and synthetic windings often leak at the slightest reverse thread (for example, if a neighbor slightly turns the riser when replacing the battery or starts threading it).

In the photo - a galvanized pipe eyeliner assembled on threads.

All polymer and metal-polymer pipes are not resistant to water hammer, which is not uncommon when starting heating. Enough for an inexperienced locksmith quickly open house valves when filling the circuit - and the pressure at the front of the water flow at a certain moment will reach 30 - 40 kgf / cm2, while reinforced polypropylene is designed for 25 atmospheres, and metal-plastic - for 10 - 16 at all.

A good alternative to corrugated stainless steel would be copper on solder joints, but the trouble is that it forms a galvanic pair with aluminum, which leads to an electrochemical one of the metals, and aluminum radiators are not uncommon in heating systems.

Reference: water in the central heating system, due to the mineral salts and metal oxides dissolved in it, is an electrolyte. For the occurrence of electrochemical processes, the metals forming a galvanic pair should only be located at a small distance from each other in a common circuit filled with an electrolyte.

Is it possible to sew up the battery with drywall or other materials?

There are different opinions on this matter, but I, a plumber with a solid experience in the past, consider the construction of a box around the radiator to be the greatest stupidity.

There are several reasons:

The radiator connections with the piping are detachable and leak from time to time. Doing repairs inside a box that does not allow you to turn the union nut or radiator plug with a key is not ice;
On the upper floors, radiators are supplied with air vents. The box deprives the owner of free access to the Mayevsky crane;

Batteries need to be flushed from time to time. Installing a flush valve inside the box and connecting a hose to it ... let's say politely, not easy;
All sectional radiators suffer from leaks between sections. They are most typical for cast iron batteries, but aluminum ones are also not alien to this problem. The box will not allow you to remove the heater or sort it out on the spot;
Finally, think for yourself: how to sew up a battery without reducing its heat transfer? Heat is transferred by convection and thermal radiation; a solid duct of any design will limit the transfer of thermal energy in both ways.

How to close the heater without reducing its heat transfer and maintaining free access to it?

And this is the right question.

Use a removable decorative screen. It should be dismantled as simply as possible, without tools if possible, and be mesh or lattice from all sides, including from above.

Autonomous

Is it possible to close or drown heating pipes in a wall in an autonomous system with its own heating boiler?

Yes - provided the pipe connections are maintenance-free. These include:

Welded socket connections of polypropylene and PE-RT pipes;

Soldered copper pipe connections;
Connections of the notorious corrugated stainless steel on compression fittings;
Press fittings on metal-plastic;
Cross-linked polyethylene on fittings with sleeves.

The choice of pipes in this case is a matter of taste of the owner: with its minimum reasonableness, the parameters of the heating system are completely controlled and stable. The pressure in the autonomous circuit does not exceed 2.5 kgf/cm2.

If you close off steel pipes or any material with serviceable connections (such as metal-plastic on compression fittings), then you will create problems for yourself. The box will have to be disassembled at the first leak.

Water supply

Is it possible to sew up the pipes responsible for the water supply in the toilet?

If you have a centralized hot water supply, then the same restrictions apply to the DHW riser as in the case of central heating. In no case should you sew up steel risers for hot water and cold water: after the first leak, you will have to make repeated repairs.

To clarify: on cold water, to replace the riser, which will be retracted into a niche, you can safely use any pipes with maintenance-free connections. Due to the configuration of the cold water system, a water hammer is impossible in it: the air in the risers and pipes during filling plays the role of a damper, while the hot water system is often bypassed for discharge at startup.

If at the same time the permeability of the bleeder is lower than that of the shut-off valve element through which the circuit is filled, then a water hammer occurs at the moment when the remaining air is displaced from the circuit.

And the pipes in the bathroom should be cleaned in a box?

Again, if all cold water and hot water connections are maintenance-free. Steel pipes cannot be sewn up with a non-separable box.

How to sew up the pipes in the toilet so that condensation does not collect on them?

Install ventilation grilles above the floor and below the ceiling. Convection through them will be provided by heating the air with a DHW riser.

Sewerage

Is it possible to close the sewer pipes in the apartment with a non-separable box?

Basically yes, but with a couple of caveats:

Socket connections must be assembled on silicone. Rubber sealing rings with a long downtime of the sewage system without water dry out and leak, while the sealant will retain water;
Sewer connections to plumbing fixture siphons must be accessible. Through the sockets, the sewer is cleared in case of blockages.

In addition, SNiP 2.04.01-85 mentions another instruction: a hatch measuring at least 30x40 cm must be installed opposite the revision in the sewer riser.

However: fat plugs are much easier to clean not with a cable, but simply by disassembling the pipes and shaking the fat into the trash can. Of course, this can only be done with open sewerage.

How to close pipes with drywall in a private house with a large length ?

There is only one difference from an apartment: every 8-10 meters of a sewer bed, it must be torn apart by tees or revisions for cleaning, opposite which hatches are mounted in the box.

Conclusion

I hope that I was able to answer all the questions of the dear reader. As always, the video in this article will offer you additional information. I will be grateful for your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades.

Sewing the battery with drywall is actually easier than ever, a simple process will take 4 hours on the strength. Giving preference to GKL, you get their main advantage. Drywall is an incredibly comfortable material, it is easy to install and bends easily. Therefore, it will not be difficult to make a box of the desired shape for the radiator. Below is a simple method describing how to sew up a battery with drywall.

You can mask the radiator using drywall constructions.

You can cope with this task on your own, the main thing is to have the necessary tools and materials at hand, then the installation process will not take much time.

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Preparatory work

So, in order to sheathe the radiator with drywall, you need to properly mount the frame from the profile. To do this, you will need the following consumables:

profiles metal profiles UD and CD (the differences between these profiles are that one of them is used as a guide, and the other as a rack);
dowels;
self-tapping screws;
screwdriver;
putty knife;
putty;
metal scissors;
decorative lattice;
level;
roulette;
pencil;
GKL itself.

You can use a drywall wall sheet or use the ceiling remaining after the repair, it all depends on the size of the structure itself, as well as on your personal preference.

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Stages of work performed

To begin with, make markings on the floor, so you will determine the location of the UD profile. You will need to step back from the wall 40 mm, because the thickness of the plasterboard is 12.5 mm, and the profile width is 27 mm.
According to the markup, a guide profile must be sewn around the entire perimeter of the opening, so we will get a finished frame for the future design. Professionals advise mounting with screws and dowels, observing an interval of 15 cm.
CD profiles are vertically inserted into the frame on both sides of the radiator, which must first be cut with metal scissors in accordance with the required height from the floor to the window sill. Make sure that the profiles are located strictly according to the given level. Fastening to the frame is best done with self-tapping screws of the “seed” type.
If the distance from the installed profiles of the CD type exceeds the distance to the wall by more than 60 cm, then you will need to install additional vertical guides.
Next, you will need to install guide profiles in a horizontal direction above and below the battery. Thus, you will get a finished frame around the entire perimeter of the radiator, which can be safely sheathed with drywall.
After the frame is completely covered with plasterboard sheathing, feel free to proceed to the final stage of installation work - puttying and painting the surface.
Install a decorative grille that masks the radiator.

Useful tips when working with drywall.

When purchasing plasterboard in a store, it is best to choose waterproof drywall. Remember that you have to finish a place in the apartment that is most at risk of flooding.
If after the repair you have enough wooden slats left, they may well become a worthy replacement for the metal profile during the installation of the frame.
In no case should the window sill stick out from under the plasterboard structure, otherwise this may lead to a violation of air convection, that is, to blowing warm air and unpleasant condensation on the windows. Moreover, if the window sill covers the battery by more than 50%, this leads to an increase in the likelihood of condensation on the windows.
Not only a decorative grille can become a material for decorating heating radiators. It all depends on the personal preferences of the owners themselves. So, for example, in addition to the well-known wooden fences, metal structures made of chrome and stainless steel have recently begun to be used. These designs are great for high-tech interiors.
If you want the drywall seams to be invisible, then chamfer along the entire edge of the installed GKL. Their size will depend on the way you putty the seams. If you use reinforcing tape, then the chamfer is removed at an angle of 45 degrees. If you plan to putty without using sickle, then the chamfer angle is 20-25 degrees. A special edge planer will help you easily chamfer.
Before you start puttying, use a primer, it will allow you to get better adhesion between the gypsum board and the putty mixture. Do not forget also about the places where the screws were screwed in, and the corners.

And when choosing a paint for finishing a finished structure, it is also best to get a heat-resistant one. Since the heating season is long, paints can lose their brightness or, even worse, crack.