Laying wooden floors in a private house. The device of wooden floors in a private house. Prices for various types of timber

Wooden flooring is a classic solution in construction and renovation. No modern composite materials can replace home warmth and ecological cleanliness of wood. Despite the fact that wood loses to concrete or composites in terms of strength and reliability, its natural attractiveness will be popular with builders for a long time to come. The device of the floor in a wooden house has been worked out for many generations, so it should not cause any problems even for not very experienced craftsmen.

It is possible to arrange the floor in a wooden structure using various technologies. Consider the procedure for performing work, the materials, tools and equipment used in this case.

The scheme of the floor in a house made of wood on pillars

Building a floor of this design is advisable if you do not intend to lay support or load-bearing beams in the walls of your house for building a floor. In this case, the floor will be constructed according to a free "floating" scheme and will not be connected in any way with the external walls of the building. Also, this floor design is used in the construction of floors in wooden buildings on soils with a high level of soil water.

Flooring in a wooden house of this design can be divided into two types.

• Single wooden plank flooring. This type of floor is the easiest to build and further use and repair. It is recommended to use this design in small cottages in summer cottages built for seasonal use.
• double floor. This type of floor is built in buildings designed for year-round use. When using this technology, two floorings are built: black and fine, in the gap between them insulation from heat loss and moisture penetration is placed.

The technology of building a floor in houses made of wooden materials on supports

Step 1. Excavate the ground in your subfloor space. The pit must be dug more than half a meter deep from the lower level of the planned floor. In a dug pit, place a pillow of crushed stone, gravel or river sand cleaned of organic matter. It is recommended that the top edge of the cushion rise above the ground level in the area near the foundation by about 20 centimeters.

Step 2 Support pillars for the floor can be formed from red burnt bricks. So, if you plan to lay the floor on supports 25 centimeters high, then its optimal width will be 1.5 bricks. With a support height of more than 25 centimeters, the pillar is placed in two bricks.

There are other technologies for installing supports. For example, you can place monolithic concrete pillars underground. In this case, the concrete mortar is poured into a pre-built wooden formwork, inside which a metal frame of reinforcement is mounted.

Concrete mortar can also be poured into vertically installed and deepened into the gravel cushion segments of asbestos-cement pipes, inside which a frame of reinforcement is also placed.

In any case, when choosing a technology for erecting support pillars, it is necessary to pay attention to their uniform upper level. The best control device is a laser level or level. The distance between the pillars-supports horizontally and vertically is about a meter.

Step 3 A layer of waterproofing is laid on each pillar-support. The easiest way to do this is to use two combined layers of sheet insulation, such as roofing felt.

Step 4.A wooden plate 30 mm thick is placed on the waterproofing layer.

Step 5.Lag beams are laid on the support pillars. Usually they are built from a thick wooden beam, cut down from coniferous wood and treated with an antiseptic. The connection points of the lag should fall on the pillars. During construction, control the horizontal position of the upper surface of the log. You can adjust the position of the lag with the help of counter wedges. Depending on the width of the wooden boards used in the construction of the floor, the distance between adjacent logs can vary in the range of 60-80 cm.

Step 6.A wooden flooring is laid on the laid logs. To create an aesthetic appearance, it is better to lay the wooden floor boards parallel to the directions of the light falling from the windows of the room. The first board is laid with a gap of up to 15 mm from the wall. Then this space will be closed with a plinth, but the gap will ensure the movement of air into the underground space.

Step 7.Solid wood boards are fastened to joists with nails. The minimum length of the connecting nail should be twice the thickness of the board. Nails are hammered under a slope so that the axis of rotation of the nail does not coincide with the plane of the interface between the board and the supporting log. The optimal angle of inclination is 30-45 degrees to the vertical. Nail heads are completely sunk into the board by blows from the sharp side of the hammer. Then, after the puttying and painting process, the nail heads will disappear from view.

We nail the boards with nails at an acute angle

Step 8.A plinth rail is nailed over the boards along the perimeter of the walls. Near the two opposite walls of the room, a temporary plinth is mounted, which is fixed a couple of centimeters from the walls. The slots will provide ventilation until the final drying of the array of boards, and then they will be closed with a permanent baseboard.

Please note that in the event that a room with a floor on concrete or brick pillars is not heated in winter, the supports may “lead” and the geometry of the wooden floor structure will be broken. A layer of slag can give additional thermal insulation to the underground space, but there must be a space of at least 5 centimeters between its upper edge and the wooden floor to ensure ventilation.

How to Build a Single Plank Floor in a Wooden House

If, when building walls in a wooden house, you provided for the laying of support beams, then the most affordable way to build a floor would be to lay a single plank floor. Usually the gap between the support beams is at least a meter.

1. Logs are mounted on top of the support bars for laying the floor. For their construction, wooden bars with a side of 50-60 millimeters are used. The distance between the joists depends on the width of the tongue-and-groove board used for laying the floor:
   - if you use a board with a thickness of 30 mm, then the distance between the lags should be no more than half a meter;
   - if you use a grooved board with a thickness of 400 mm or more, then the optimal distance between the lags will be 50-60 centimeters.
2. When laying the lathing from the log, be sure to check the horizontalness of the upper level of the bars. It is advisable to use a laser or conventional building level for this, adjusting the height of the log with the help of counter wedges knocked under it.
3. Logs are fixed to the supporting beams by means of long nails or carpentry staples.

1. The plank floor of a single structure is laid directly on the logs. For laying the finishing floor in one layer, a tongue-and-groove board is used. Its fastening is traditional: the next board is inserted into the lock of the previous one, adjusted by tapping with a mallet, and then nailed to the log with a long nail that enters the body of the board at a slight slope. The heads of the nails are recessed into the body of the board. If you plan to place a finishing floor covering on the floor in one layer, then it is possible to use unedged boards.

1. Finished tongue and groove flooring is sanded and then varnished or painted. A finishing decorative coating, such as linoleum, is laid on the draft floor layer.

This is a very fast and affordable way to build a floor in a wooden building. However, the thermal insulation of this design leaves much to be desired and in a house designed for year-round use, it is better to build a double floor structure.

We build a floor in two layers in a wooden structure

Unlike a single floor, a double floor consists of two layers: finishing and rough.

Step 1

Logs are mounted on the support bearing beams, to which cranial additional bars are nailed.

Step 2

On the cranial additional bars in the transverse direction, the boards of the rough layer of the flooring are nailed. You can use unedged softwood boards of various thicknesses (15-45 mm). Before laying the boards are treated with an antiseptic. The boards to be laid are tightly fitted to each other so that minimal gaps remain.

Step 3

A layer of vapor barrier made of durable polyethylene is laid on the rough flooring. Its stripes overlap.

Step 5

Logs are laid on the draft floor. Their height is selected depending on the required level of insulation (usually 50 mm).

Step 6

Between the lags is an insulating layer. The choice of material for insulation depends solely on your budget and preferences:

• rolled mineral wool roll;
• foamed polymer boards (for example, polystyrene foam);
• a layer of backfill material, such as expanded clay or a mixture of clay with sawdust;
• underfloor heating piping system.

Step 7

Another layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer. If you are building a warm water floor in the thickness of a wooden one, the top layer of waterproofing is not used. When constructing a floor with passive thermal insulation, a gap of 1-1.5 centimeters is left between the upper edge of the thermal insulation layer.

Step 8

Groove boards are laid on top of this entire “sandwich”. The technology for their installation has already been described above.

Step 9

During installation, ventilation holes with a cross section of about 5 centimeters are left in the corners of the room, which are closed with decorative grilles. The surface of the gratings rises above the floor by a couple of centimeters. This elevation protects the grate from moisture.

The underground is also ventilated through the windows in the basement walls. In winter, all types of ventilation windows are blocked.

Features of the construction of the floor on the first floor of wooden buildings

When constructing a floor on the lower first or basement floor of a wooden house above unheated basements, there are certain features.

Cold floor located directly on the ground (no underground)

A cold floor located directly on the ground (without underground) is built if there is dry soil under the house and if the floor of the first floor of the building is high. The underground of such a floor consists of 4 layers:

• compacted sand cushion;
• dry, clean, calcined sand;
• log (beams from coniferous trees with a thickness of more than 15 centimeters), buried in a poured soil base and resting on recesses in the outer walls of the room;
• single plank flooring with a thickness of 30-40 mm.

Insulated floor with unheated underground space

The procedure for the construction of an insulated floor with an unheated underground space

1. Placement in the underground of a pillow made of compacted sand cleaned of organic matter (thickness 10-15 cm).
2. Installation of support posts with a height of at least half a meter. A very simple and economical way to install the supports is to pour concrete mortar into segments of vertically standing pipes with a metal frame inside.
3. Laying a double layer of waterproofing on the surface of the supports.
4. Placement of wooden dies with a thickness of 30 mm.
5. Laying load-bearing beams.
6. In order to carry out thermal insulation of the floor using this technology, slats (about 15 mm in cross section) are nailed to the side ends of the log, on which a draft floor layer of cut unedged boards is laid.
7. A vapor barrier film and a layer of insulation are laid on the draft layer of the flooring (the level of the flooring is just below the finishing floor). On top of the beams, a plank floor or a covering of wood-based panels is laid.

Cold floor with heated underfloor space

A cold floor with a heated underground space is used in construction on soils with a low level of soil water. The technology of its installation coincides with the previous one, up to the installation stage of the subfloor. After installing the lag, a finishing floor is mounted on top of them without creating a heat-insulating layer.

Watch the instructional video to learn more about the construction steps.

Video - Floor device in a wooden house

In most cases, in private housing construction, wooden floors are made, giving preference to natural material. Concrete and self-leveling bases enjoy a certain popularity. We will figure out what floors and how best to do in a private residential building.

Wooden base - practical and comfortable

Wood has been used for flooring for a long time. It has a number of important advantages, among them are the following:

• low thermal conductivity (optimum temperature in both summer and winter);
• environmental friendliness (modern people pay special attention to this characteristic);
• ease of installation (making a wooden floor with your own hands is relatively easy);
• high maintainability and durability (with regular care and minor repairs, a wooden base lasts for centuries).

In a private house, it is recommended to use ash or oak wood for floors. These tree species are considered the most durable. But their cost is quite high. Therefore, as a compromise, the wooden floor in the house can be made from fir, spruce, larch, cedar, pine. It is important to choose the right bars and boards - they must be well dried. The maximum allowable wood moisture content for flooring is 12%.

With a higher indicator, the boards can “lead”, and instead of a flat base in a private house, you will get a bumpy surface with cracks and gaps. A wooden floor, which can be made with your own hands in private housing construction, can be two- or one-layer. In the first case, an additional so-called "draft" base is provided. The scheme of its construction depends on what material will be used as a heater.

If expanded clay or slag is used, it is better to lay a solid base of wood. When choosing mineral wool for insulation, a distance of 40–50 cm is maintained between the individual boards of the subfloor. All elements of the “preliminary” base are protected by a vapor barrier, it is recommended to install thin plywood on top. And only after that lay the material chosen for it.

Regardless of the number of layers and the method of construction, the wooden floor is necessarily fixed on the logs. They are bars that are placed in the walls of the building or installed on a concrete base. Immuring logs into the walls is obtained when the room where you need to do the flooring has a small area. There is also a technique for arranging wood floors on "floating" support pillars. We will talk about it later.

Floors on a concrete screed - do it yourself

Logs made of wood can be mounted directly on a concrete slab or screed. If you need to slightly raise the level of the base (by 15–20 cm), it is better to use the laying pattern on threaded studs. A wooden floor with lags on concrete should always be made in two layers. First you need to build a rough base, then - the finish. You can do this according to the following scheme:

• We mark on the concrete the places where the logs will be installed. We note right away that if you want to get a non-creaky and truly reliable coating, it is better not to save on lags. They should be massive, made of quality wood. The distance between the lags is taken about 60 cm.
• Every 30-40 cm on the markup, you need to make points and drill them. And then mount the studs with fixing elements into the holes obtained. They are necessary to hold the beams, which are also drilled and mounted on studs.
• We bring the beams (by adjusting the clamps on the fasteners) to the horizontal (it must be absolutely accurate). The quality of work is constantly checked by the level. Here you have to tinker, but the floor in the house needs to be made perfectly flat.
• We tighten the nuts on the studs. With a grinder, we cut off the excess parts of the hardware and embed them in the recesses, which should be prepared in advance.

Now you can make a rough floor, insulate it and proceed to the flooring of the finishing base. Installing the log directly on the screed should also not cause any particular difficulties for those who do this work with their own hands. First, marking is done (the distance between the lags is 60 cm). After that, the beams are placed on a concrete base by means of anchor fasteners. Logs are allowed to be raised to any height convenient for you.

The next steps are:

• we attach foam-type polyethylene or other insulating material of relatively small thickness to the lags with brackets;
• along the perimeter of the room (along the walls) we mount strips of mineral wool;
• on foamed polyethylene we place medium or small expanded clay, the layer of which is covered with a vapor barrier film.

Your wood floor is almost ready. It remains to lay plywood on it (take thicker material) or ordinary boards. From above, in addition, you can make a finishing coating - laminated parquet, carpet.

Wooden floors on the ground and on supporting pillars

It is easy to arrange a wooden base directly on the ground. Here is what you need to do with your own hands in this case:

• compact the soil as carefully as possible in the underground in a private house;
• make a 20–40 cm pillow (gravel, sand, medium crushed stone in approximately equal proportions) and again ram it;
• put the reinforcing cage on the pillow and roofing material (or other type of rigid waterproofing).

Now it is required to build supports for the lags - blocks of concrete or brick, which are fixed on the waterproofing layer to the mortar. We leave a distance of 60 cm between the blocks, and a layer of insulating material is placed around them - mineral wool or ordinary foam. Then wooden logs are placed, their fastening is performed with metal corners. Here it is very important to correctly align the beams so that the floor in a private house is “without waves” (use a regular level, or better, a laser level).

Between the lags, it is desirable to lay another insulating layer (for example, mineral wool boards) and cover it with a vapor barrier. Then the boards are laid. It is recommended to fix them with small carnations, they need to be driven in from the side. In order for the flooring in a private house to be well ventilated, the edge boards must be laid at some distance (10–15 mm) from the walls. Now let's see how to properly make a "floating" lag system. It is quite possible to build a floor on pillars with your own hands. For this, you do not need to have a special construction education.

• In the subfield, dig recesses (0.5–0.6 m) for brick columns (the distance between them is 0.7–1 m).
• Fill the pits with sand, gravel and crushed stone with a layer of about 0.2 m, fill this mixture with water and compact it as efficiently as possible. The stability of the future floor in a private house depends on this.
• Install concrete or brick pillars on the pillow made. The diameter of such columns is recommended to be at least 40x40 cm.

We will fasten floor beams to anchors or threaded studs. What hardware to take - you choose, there is not much difference. Studs or anchors should be embedded 10–15 cm into the upper part of the supports. After that, the pillars need to be covered with roofing material (do not spare the material - make 3-4 layers), cut holes in the logs for fastening hardware and lay the beams on the waterproofing.

Professionals advise making a wooden base according to the “floating” technique in two layers. Then it will always be warm in a private house. It is advisable to fill the subfloor with expanded clay, not reaching 8-10 cm to the wooden floor.

How to build a high-quality concrete floor yourself?

Concrete flooring is most often equipped in dwellings with brick or concrete walls. Often such a base needs to be made in order to subsequently cover it with wooden boards.

The concrete floor is characterized by a long service life, excellent strength properties. It is easy to fill it without having special knowledge and building skills. We also note that a concrete floor can be made by spending a minimum of money. This material is relatively inexpensive, so it is very often used for the needs of private construction.

Concrete coating is done like this:

1. They choose the top layer of earth in the underground and equip a 10-15-centimeter sand cushion, which is abundantly watered with water and well tamped.
2. A 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured onto the compressed sand (it is advisable to take the material of the middle fraction) and ramming is performed again.
3. They make (rough) on a solution of gravel or sand - it would be right to add a little foam crumb or expanded clay to this composition to make the concrete floor warmer.
4. The hardened screed is covered with a waterproofing material (polyethylene, roofing material), making sure that it goes 20 centimeters onto the walls. The overlaps of the film or roofing material must be glued.
5. Insulation is poured - expanded polystyrene, produced according to the extruded method, or expanded clay. The more insulating layer you make, the warmer the concrete frame will be.

After all these operations, a reinforcing metal mesh should be placed on expanded clay or polystyrene and a second screed (finish) should be poured. Work is done on beacons. They should be set strictly according to the level, then the concrete frame will not have distortions. And the house will delight you with an absolutely even surface without height differences. We hope that you can easily make a concrete floor, guided by our advice. Comfort and warmth to your home!

A very important step in home improvement is the selection of a suitable floor covering and its correct installation. One of the most preferred options is wood flooring. Wood is an environmentally friendly, breathable material with excellent performance and properties. With the proper knowledge, you can cope with the installation of such a coating with your own hands.

Choose the right wood for your decking. At this stage, you need to take into account the climatic conditions of the region, the level of planned surface loads, the features of the operation of the premises and, of course, your financial capabilities.

In small residential areas, softwood flooring is best. Such material is sold at a relatively affordable cost, differing, at the same time, in a sufficiently high strength and durability.

Of the representatives of the middle and higher price range, give preference to oak. Aspen wood is also used for arranging the floor. This material is especially well suited for flooring in children's rooms, as well as in bedrooms.

For independent flooring in residential premises, only dry wood can be used. The problem with wet boards is that they shrink in size during the drying process, which causes ugly and completely unnecessary cracks in the coating.

When buying a material, make sure that it does not have any noticeable defects such as splits, third-party stains, cracks, etc. Do not buy such wood even with a good discount.

Pre-calculate to determine the required amount of material. To do this, you just need to know the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises. Buy the material itself with a 10-15 percent margin.

For flooring, it is recommended to use a board with a length of 200 cm or more. It is highly desirable that all the boards offered to you be included in one batch. So you can be sure that all the purchased material was manufactured and processed under equal conditions. Consequently, the texture, color and other external characteristics of the boards will be approximately the same.

Flooring is best done using edged and tongue-and-groove boards. Such material does not require additional grinding, which will allow you to significantly save time on installation work.

Wood flooring can be made using several different materials, namely:

• solid boards;
• solid parquet board;
• glued parquet board. It has the same appearance and is practically not inferior in terms of performance to a parquet board made of solid wood, but it costs less;
• parquet.

Preparing for flooring

The flooring is done in two layers. First, the foundation is laid, then the wood itself.

There are two main ways to install the flooring: laying on the ground on logs and on floor beams. When choosing the appropriate method, consider the characteristics of a particular room and your personal preferences.

Before installation, carefully treat all wooden elements with antifungal and fire-retardant impregnations.

The base of the erected floor must be waterproofed. For moisture insulation it is convenient to use penofol or polyethylene. Penofol simultaneously provides high-quality hydro and noise insulation properties, therefore it is more preferable.

Base mounting

The functions of the base for independent flooring can be performed by logs, plywood and concrete. Familiarize yourself with the features of the methods and choose the most suitable for your case.

Foundation on logs

Fastening the flooring to the logs is the most popular option for arranging the floor. This design allows you to easily and effectively hide floor irregularities and lay various communications under the base without any problems.

The base is assembled from a 10x5 cm timber. In low rooms, it is better to refuse this method - the finished structure will take about 8-10 cm in height.

Before starting to mount the base, you should bring the logs into the room and let them lie down for a couple of days so that the wood material adapts to its surrounding conditions.

Select the step for fixing the lag in accordance with the dimensions of the boards used. It is important that in the future the boards do not sag.

First step. Lay one log at the same level at opposite walls.

Second step. Pull dense parallel threads between the laid lags. The distance between the threads depends on the thickness of the floorboards. If your boards are more than 3 cm thick, stretch the threads at a distance of about 80 cm, but if the flooring elements are thinner than 3 cm, then the threads should be pulled at a distance of no more than 60 cm. If you use boards with a thickness of more than 4 cm, you can increase the distance between the threads up to 100 cm.

Third step. Set the lags, focusing on the stretched threads. Adjust the mounting height with wooden wedges. It is important that all lags are set strictly at the same level.

Lags must be fastened to the base. If the base in your house is made of wood, fix it with self-tapping screws or nails, if it is made of concrete, use dowels or anchors.

Fourth step. Fill the space between adjacent joists with thermal insulation material. You can lay foam, mineral wool, expanded clay, etc.

In the process of laying the boards will need to be attached to each installed log. Preliminary in the material you need to prepare holes for self-tapping screws. An electric drill with a drill of the appropriate diameter will help you with this.

An excellent base for future quality flooring can be made from plywood. High-quality plywood is almost not subject to deformation during the use of the floor. The material is characterized by high strength and reliability.

If necessary, the floor on the plywood sheets in question can be quickly and easily removed. When laying the base, you do not have to carry out any additional work - the flooring is mounted directly on the plywood sheets.

First step. Place the plywood sheets on the base and, using ordinary chalk, draw a diagram of the future laying of the elements. Focusing on this markup, you will install the logs, and already lay sheets of plywood on them.

Second step. Install lags. The optimal pitch is 400 mm. Align the logs with linings from the same plywood. All elements must be installed strictly at the same level. Attach the aligned logs to the base. Choose fasteners according to the base material.

Third step. Glue the finished structure with glue so that the floor does not crack in the future.

Fourth step. Cover the system with rolled glassine or other material with similar properties.

Fifth step. Lay the plywood. The edges of each sheet should lie on the logs. Place the plywood sheets themselves with a small gap, no more than 1-2 mm. To fasten sheets, use self-tapping screws - about 8-9 fasteners per sheet. Sand the joints carefully.

If desired, you can level the concrete base with a screed and lay the flooring directly on the floor, without installing an additional base.

In such a situation, it is important that the boards cannot come into direct contact with the concrete. Soil mastic or ordinary polyethylene foam will perfectly cope with the functions of the intermediate layer. When using polyethylene, place insulation sheets with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

First step. Start fastening boards from any wall. Leave a 15mm gap between the wall of the room and the boards of the starting row. After completing the installation of the flooring, you will close it with a plinth. Drive in screws or nails at a slight angle, trying to deepen the heads of the fasteners into the wood by about 2 mm.

1 - lag; 2 - bracket; 3 - wedges; 4 - doboynik

Second step. After installing the first floorboard, step back about 50 mm from the edge and drive brackets into the bars with an insignificant gap, and then insert a thin rail into the gap that appears after that.

Third step. Drive a wooden wedge slightly larger than the gap left between the installed rail and the fixed brackets. Thanks to the wedge, the edges of the stacked boards will be pressed as tightly as possible, which will prevent the appearance of cracks. Staples can be removed after fixing the boards with screws or nails.

a - building bracket; b - wedge clamp with a movable bracket; in - rack compression
1 - bracket; 2 - wedges; 3 - lag; 4 - spur; 5 - emphasis; 6 - movable bracket; 7 - clamping screw; 8 - stops; 9 - gear wheel with a ratchet - dog; 10 - handle; 11 - screw with stop

That is, you need to work according to this scheme: they laid a couple of boards, pressed them with a rail and a wedge, and fixed them with self-tapping screws. Lay the entire flooring according to this scheme. Before attaching each next board, it must be additionally compacted with a mallet.

Fourth step. Sand the joints of the boards.

Fifth step. Hide the gaps between the walls and boards with a floor plinth.

Sixth step. Lay the top coat, such as parquet board or any other material of your choice. You can do without finishing flooring, but simply paint the boards, cover them with varnish or other composition.

Wood is a high-quality and durable material with excellent performance and properties. However, in order for the flooring to fully show its properties, you, as a performer, are required to follow the instructions exactly and follow the recommendations received at each stage of work. Follow this simple guide and you'll be fine.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself wooden flooring

In this article, we will talk about how to make a floor in a private house. First of all, you need to decide on the design of the floor. The design of the floor is determined by the way the house is operated, for example, in a country house you can lay a single plank floor, and in a full-fledged residential building you should make a floor with insulation.

How to make a floor in a private house from boards

Floor from boards in one layer. It is the simplest floor option. This design is suitable exclusively for summer buildings or housing in warm countries. If the building design provides that the floor beams are mounted in the walls, then the distance from one beam to another is, most often, too large to immediately lay the boards.

To provide the necessary strength, laying a log is required. If you plan to arrange the floor on top of the supporting pillars, then the placement of the beams can immediately be made as required.

Now, logs are laid on top of the supporting beams, which are set strictly horizontally, for this, wooden spacers and wedges are used. After checking the location of all the logs with a level, they need to be attached to the beams with nails, and then the floorboard should be nailed to them.

Two layer plank floor

To equip such a floor, significantly higher costs and efforts will be required, but this is offset by a decrease in heat loss. For the device of the subfloor, it is better to use coniferous wood. To save money, you can use a non-edged board or slab.

Most often, thermal insulation is laid in the space from the rough to the finishing floor.

As thermal insulation, you can use expanded clay, a mixture of clay and sawdust, or straw. Naturally, you can use modern materials - polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. A finishing floor (grooved board) is laid on the thermal insulation.

concrete floor

The concrete floor is equipped in several stages:

• First of all, markup is done. Here it is better to use a laser level. After its installation, it will mark the walls in the right places for the future floor. To mark the level in the center of the room, threads are pulled from the marks in the walls.
• Next, we do gravel backfilling. This is the insulation in your floor. The earth should be cleared of plants so that they do not germinate through the floor. After that, drive in stakes so that their level does not reach the level of the future floor by 100 mm. Dumping starts from the wall opposite the door. After backfilling the entire area, the gravel is leveled and compacted, and the pegs are removed.

• At the next stage, sand is poured, compacted and leveled.
• The arrangement of proper waterproofing plays a huge role, the moisture insulation of a concrete floor is usually made with a plastic film, the thickness of which is not less than 250 microns.
• Next, we make the filling. First of all, you should set the level of the beacons, which are used as wooden or metal slats, the distance between which is from 1 to 1.5 m. The upper edge of the slats should be in contact with the stretched threads. Then, the rope marking is removed.
• Now the inter-rail space is poured with concrete, from the end of the room to the door. After that, the concrete is leveled using the rule.

After the "seizure" of the concrete, it is necessary to dismantle the rails, and fill the voids with a solution. To level the mortar in the cracks, a “grater” is used for plastering. After that, the floor is covered with plastic wrap for a month. It is better to periodically moisten the concrete. This will enable the concrete to gain maximum strength.

Filling the floor in a private house - instructions

For self-pouring a concrete floor, no special skills in construction are required. The main thing here is the preparation of the necessary consumables, and the calculation of their quantity. If this is done, then filling the floor in a private house will be effective and simple.

Do not forget, the arrangement of a durable and even concrete floor is the key to the quality arrangement of any floor covering.
For quality work, you need to use:

• vibrotamper;
• ruberoid;
• polyethylene film;
• expanded clay;
• foam boards;
• reinforced mesh;
• restrictive rails;
• building levels.

The order of work or instructions for pouring the floor in a private house

• 1. First of all, you need to prepare the base surface for the future concrete floor. To do this, the top layer of soil should be removed to the required depth. Make an effort to make the plane as flat as possible. Now, it must be rammed with broken bricks or rubble. A vibrotamper will help you with this. If you do not have the opportunity to use such a tool, and you need to equip the floor in a small area, then tamping can be done manually.

• 2. At the next stage of work, waterproofing and thermal insulation should be arranged. It is most rational to use roofing material for these purposes. If you want to save a little money on insulation and you are sure that the groundwater level will never reach the floor in your house, then floor insulation can be done by laying several layers of a material such as ordinary plastic sheeting. Here the main role is played by your personal preferences and financial capabilities.
• 3. When the waterproofing is fully equipped, you should start laying the heat-insulating material. For these purposes, you can use expanded clay, or foam boards. Although this material is being used less and less, glass wool can also be used to equip the heat-insulating layer. When insulating a concrete floor, approach responsibly the process of calculating the amount of consumables, otherwise, such repairs can cost you dearly.

• 4. Now, you can start the process of filling the floor with a solution. Concrete is laid on top of the prepared surface from the end of the room, which is opposite to the door, while gradually moving towards the beginning of the room. In this process, the use of restrictive rails, which are set in accordance with the level of the floor, will help you. Here it is very important to strengthen the final layer with a metal frame. To carry out reinforcement, a conventional chain-link mesh can be used. With the help of these actions, it is possible to achieve an increase in the impact resistance of the upper layer.

• 5. Well, now you can proceed to the final stage. Here you will need to carefully make a screed using a leveling layer of cement, which has been diluted with water, to such an extent until it turns into a liquid slurry. For these purposes, you can use a special leveling mixture, which is freely sold in specialized stores.

Video - pouring the floor in a private house

Do-it-yourself flooring in the house

If you are planning to do the flooring in the house with your own hands and do not know how, then the information below will definitely help you with this.

The most responsible approach should be taken to the installation of the floor in a building in which year-round living is planned, since the indicators of comfort and appearance of the room depend on how correctly these works are performed.

What knowledge should you have before doing flooring?

Several factors influence the cost of laying flooring, and first of all, what type of flooring you plan to equip. There are methods by which floors are laid, and the most common of them are:

1. Arrangement of the floor from the boards in two layers;
2. Arrangement of the floor in one layer;
3. Arrangement of the floor, which uses support pillars.

The use of each method is associated with both positive and negative aspects. The most inexpensive option is to lay a single floor. The cheapness is explained by the fact that when using this method, the material consumption is not large, and the installation is simple - even a novice builder can do this work. But, in such floors, the thermal insulation properties leave much to be desired, for this reason, in winter, it will not be an easy task to establish a comfortable temperature in the room.

To ensure warmth in your home during the winter and year-round comfort, it is recommended to equip double floors. To make this type of floor, use an uncut board (for the bottom layer) and a tongue-and-groove board (for the outer layer).

Naturally, this type of flooring will be more expensive, as more materials will be spent on it. However, the level of technical and operational properties of a double floor covering will be higher than that of a single one.
If we talk about arranging the floor on top of the supporting pillars, then this technology is relevant in houses that are built in areas with a high level of groundwater. This design makes it possible to protect your home from the harmful effects of moisture.
And finally, before you engage in flooring, it is better to consult a specialist. By following these steps, you will select the most functional floor option for your home and save on materials.

Each of us dreams of building a spacious house, in solitude with nature. And of course this house should be made of natural and natural materials. The wooden house is perfect for a quiet and relaxing stay. When building a wooden house, the main thing is to pay special attention to the design of the floor.

In order not to disturb the harmony, beauty and naturalness, the floors should also be made of wood. Many people know that houses made of wood have a healing and beneficial effect.

The floor structure must be reliable and have effective protection against heat loss from the house. Today we will consider floor designs in a wooden house.

Floor characteristics

Regardless of what the house is built from, the floor must have the following characteristics:

It should also be noted that the load on the floor, first or basement floor should be calculated from an average value of 2100 Newtons per 1 square meter.

Floor types

For wooden houses, the two most common types of floors are used, these are concrete and wood. Now we will analyze the pros and cons of each.

• Concrete floor. The advantages include the speed of the process, and especially in the presence of a concrete mixer. An insignificant price, which is the cost of sand and cement.

The ability to do the work with your own hands, without professional skills. With all these pluses, we get a finished flat surface in a month, after the final drying of the concrete screed.

The disadvantages include a large mass of the floor, which puts pressure on the foundation. Not suitable for every type of foundation; it requires careful calculation of the load on the foundation and soil.

And secondly, since we have a house made of wood, the walls vibrate (narrowing - expanding), this has a bad effect on the concrete surface, stress zones, chips, cracks appear.

• Wooden floor. The advantages include the fact that wood is an environmentally friendly material. The floors made of wood in a wooden house are harmony, naturalness and sophistication.

When performing work, no special devices are required. There are a few more disadvantages than concrete floors. The main disadvantage is the cost (high).

The second drawback is the complexity of the installation technology, assistants will be required. It may be necessary to involve specialists, and this is an additional cost. When laying a finished floor, it is difficult to achieve a perfectly flat surface. Strict adherence to the technology of the floor installation process.

The device of a wooden floor in a wooden house

We have described the pros and cons of the two types of floors. With a concrete floor, everything is clear. Moreover, a wooden house should have a wooden floor.

Unedged board or sheets of plywood, chipboard, are usually used to equip the subfloor. And if used for arranging a finishing floor, then a decorative floor covering is placed on top of it.

Glued laminated timber or seam board is used as a finishing floor. After installation, paint or varnish.

Floor structures

The flooring is divided into two types.

The floor structure looks like this:

• Draft floor.
• Waterproofing.
• Insulation.
• Air bag.
• Clean floor.
• Decorative flooring.

Foundation preparation

Choosing a foundation is always a difficult and controversial choice. The pricing policy is different. Since a wooden house belongs to light buildings up to 14-17 tons, then the foundation should be chosen accordingly.

Some put houses directly on the ground or add rubble with a layer of 10-20 cm. This is done in places where there is no groundwater, and the earth does not creep.

2 layers of waterproofing are laid out on the ground (roofing material, polyethylene film), then logs are laid. This type of foundation is suitable for small seasonal houses with a single floor.

The most common is of course the foundation of concrete. It can be of a tape type, a cheaper method, or filled in one piece (plate), a more expensive method.

The concrete foundation is usually reinforced with a reinforcing belt. This is a long-term and reliable foundation, both for a wooden house and a brick one.

The next option is the support columns. The site on which the house is going to stand is freed from the soil to a depth of about 50 cm. The pillow is formed due to a layer of sand and gravel.

Each layer should be approximately 20-30 cm. We ram everything carefully. Then we lay out columns of brick or asbestos pipes filled with concrete.

The pillars are placed around the perimeter and inside the house at intervals of 90-100 cm. Keeping one level. We lay waterproofing on the poles, then 3 cm board around the entire perimeter - this is the lining. Bars are placed on it.

And recently, pile foundations have become popular. Everyone just buys ready-made piles of a given diameter, they are screwed into the ground one level.

After that, a frame is built for the walls and floor. This type of foundation is ideal for places where groundwater or moving soil is close, as piles can be buried to different depths and make the foundation strong and reliable.

Single layer floor installation

The choice of foundation is yours. Supports, piles, soil or concrete surface on which I lay thick beams must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.

It is advisable to buy bars from coniferous trees. As mentioned above, we process all wooden elements with special compounds.

Logs are usually laid on top of the bars at the locations of the supports, the main thing is to keep one level.

The distance between the lags should be chosen 60-80 cm if you have a floor board 4 cm thick or more. And if the thickness of the board is 3 cm, then the distance is best to choose 50-60 cm.

On the logs set at one level, we lay a wooden floor. We put the first board from the wall at a distance of 10-15 mm. This gap must be left for natural ventilation.

Subsequently, this hole will be closed with a plinth. To create decorative beauty, floor boards are best laid parallel to the rays of light from the window. We use nails to fasten the boards.

Purchase nails, taking into account the fact that their length should be twice as long as the thickness of the boards. Drive nails at an angle of 30-45 degrees. Don't forget to wear your hats.

Then, when all the boards are fixed, we close up all the holes from the caps with wood putty. After the putty dries, you can start painting and varnishing. Installation of skirting boards is done around the entire perimeter.

On the opposite two walls, a permanent plinth is nailed, and on the other two opposite walls, which have gaps left, a temporary plinth is nailed with a gap of 10 mm from the wall. In 2-3 weeks, due to natural convection, the floor will dry out completely, and temporary skirting boards can be replaced with permanent ones.

As mentioned above, this type of floor is used in unheated, small houses. And in winter, the ground under the house freezes and the pillars are deformed, which directly affects the functionality of the floor.

To remove this effect as much as possible, the underground space is covered with slag, leaving 4-6 cm to the floor, for an air cushion.

Double floor device

Such a floor has the structure of a multi-layer cake. The design of the bars and the log remains as described above. Only in the lower part of the log we fill the bars along the entire length and from both sides.

These bars are called cranial. A draft floor is attached on top of these bars. The floor is usually made of unedged boards 2-4 cm thick. All wooden elements are necessarily processed with special means. Boards should be fastened with minimal gaps.

After the subfloor is fully assembled, vapor barrier and waterproofing materials are laid on it. Often this is a polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns.

But other materials can be used, such as parchment paper, roofing material and modern membrane films. The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm and the seams are glued with construction tape.

Then a heater is placed on top of the waterproofing layer.. In the past, mixtures were actively used: clay + sawdust or clay + straw. Expanded clay has proven itself well, it is not eaten by rodents, it does not lose its shape and volume.

But in the age of high technology, the market offers a large selection of materials for insulation. Ecowool, foam plastic, isolon, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. This is not the whole list, but only those that are popular.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. The main difference is in price and features. The choice of insulation is up to you. After you have bought a heater, lay it between the lags.

We lay a layer of waterproofing on top of the insulation, leaving 3-5 cm to the lower edge of the finished floor, as a natural ventilation of the subfloor.

If you provide for the presence of a "warm floor" system, then pipes or wires should be laid on top of the insulation. They should not be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.

On top of this "pie" we lay the finishing floor. Tongue board - ideal for arranging a finished floor. The principle of assembling boards is similar to that of a laminate, each subsequent board is inserted into the groove of the previous one, and fastening takes place with nails at an angle.

If in the first method we talked about the ventilation gap, which is located along the walls, then here we will talk about the ventilation gap, which is located in two opposite corners of the room.

These gaps can be in the form of a square, a circle about 5 cm in size. After the floor is covered with all the boards, the ventilation gaps are decorated with gratings.

The gratings must be taken out by 5 mm. above floor level so that liquid does not enter the insulation. Sheet piling, sanded and varnished. On top of such a floor, the finish coating can not be used. But if you wish, you can lay carpet, linoleum, laminate and others.

Remember that ventilation holes should also be left in the basement. They close only in winter.

Conclusion

We examined all the nuances of the floor construction device in a wooden house. I hope our article will help you find the right solution and approach to arranging the floor.

Do not forget that wood is a natural material that requires care and processing with special means.

The flooring process requires care, accuracy and compliance with the instructions. Installation work can be done by hand.