Parquet sanding. How we do. How to choose a grinder for sanding parquet: an overview of modern technology What is the best way to sand parquet at home

High-quality wood parquet is a very reliable coating. But even with the most careful and careful care, the surface becomes uneven over time and visible defects appear on it. Competently observing the installation technology, the owners of apartments and houses have every chance to carry out grinding with their own hands.

What's happened?

The laying of parquet itself is only the first step to obtain a high-quality floor covering. To get the desired effect, you need to do a certain number of activities, for example, level the surface, sand and varnish. The same actions are done when restoring old parquet.

Do-it-yourself sanding of parquet involves the elimination of defects on the floor covering that contribute to its destruction. For this reason, wood flooring needs to be restored periodically.

This repair helps:

remove small flaws;
free the floor from the old layer of varnish;

eliminate the creak of loose planks;
smooth out height differences between parquet planks.

When laying a new coating, the surface must first be cleaned. After grinding, the coating becomes smooth and less susceptible to damage.

Self-polishing parquet may not help in some situations when:

the material dried out and the gaps between the planks became several millimeters;
the floor covering is swollen with moisture;

the main part of the floor is damaged by insects;
floor surface with large dents and holes.

As a rule, such defects appear in cases where the laying of parquet boards and their operation were incorrect.

When is it applied?

Restoration of a parquet covering consists in repair on restoration of an old wooden covering. The main task in the repair of parquet is to eliminate flaws and improve the appearance of the floor. You can repair and update the surface yourself.

Consider the most common defects, the appearance of which requires polishing floors.

Cracks. The main factor in the formation of cracks is the loosening of parquet boards. Removing gaps is a difficult task due to their appearance throughout the coverage area. Small gaps can be sealed with putty. When visible gaps form in the middle of the planks, and the surface is scratched, then cosmetic repairs are indispensable. In the case when the parquet has not detached from the base, then it is necessary to restore the floor covering.

Otherwise, later the parquet will have to be removed and laid again. Restoration takes place in the following stages: sanding, sanding, puttying and repairing irregularities, sanding the putty floor, final finishing.

Creak. One of the possible causes of floor creaking may be planks that are not connected to each other, which make a sound when walking. Also, the flooring creaks when the parquet peels off from the base. Another common cause of a creaky floor may be the lack of a seam between the parquet and the wall. To get rid of this unpleasant sound, a part of the parquet is cut off to provide a gap.

Bloated planks. Such problems in the room sometimes appear. The reason for the swollen coating may be a violation of the installation technology, when, when laying the floor, they forget to leave gaps from each wall. If the parquet has risen due to contact with water, then the damaged planks are first pulled out and the surface is dried. Next, slightly increase the temperature of the air in the room. When the surface is completely dry, use a vacuum cleaner to clean the holes that have appeared. After that, new strips are installed, sanded and varnished or oiled.

Scratches. Usually scratches on such surfaces are formed from shoes with sharp heels and rearrangement of furniture. When the parquet is made of hardwood and with a reliable protective coating, it is more resistant to mechanical damage.

To care for the parquet floor, you can purchase a special oil. First, dust is removed from the parquet, wet cleaning is carried out, then oil is applied. Do not apply a thick layer of oil so that the floor does not stick. Initially, such a coating will get dirty faster, but after a while it will become easier to care for the floor.

Technology features

To restore the parquet with your own hands, you must carefully follow the installation technology. The design of this floor covering makes it possible not only to remove local defects, but also to carry out a complete restoration.

The process of renovating parquet consists of a preparatory stage, deep or rough sanding, fine workmanship, filling of flaws and final sanding. Let's study the steps in more detail

Preparatory stage. After installation, it is important to carefully inspect the parquet for damage, such as scratches and dents. These defects can be eliminated with putty or special glue. Sanding old wood flooring is a more time-consuming task, because every detail must be checked for integrity. Damaged material is replaced. When the work is completed, the coating is vacuumed and wiped.

Rough grinding. Initially, the clamping force of the drum is adjusted. These manipulations are performed using a screw and wheel balancing. After completing the work, it is recommended to walk through inaccessible places with a grinder.

Fine grinding. For these jobs you need a flat grinder. It frees the surface from defects.
Puttying. The flaws of the restored coating are restored with the help of colored putty with imitation of “wood”. If you purchase a special putty liquid, you can make the mixture yourself. After applying this mass, the floor should dry for at least a day.

Final sanding. To remove excess putty, the surface is ground with a surface grinder filled with sandpaper. Do this only when the putty has completely hardened.

Tools and materials

To sand parquet with your own hands, you need special tools and additional consumables:

Parquet grinder. A grinder is a rather expensive tool; it can be rented in specialized stores;
Angle grinder. Most often, this tool is called a grinder. The grinder is used for various jobs, including grinding wood flooring with it. To remove the old layer of varnish, you need to use a petal nozzle. It is convenient to sand parquet with this tool, but when using the grinder, a lot of dust and sawdust appears.

Manual cycle. It is useful for scraping parquet in hard-to-reach places. An iron plate is attached to the handle of the instrument. She removes the previous layer of varnish, but this is a difficult job;
Emery cloth. They are cut along the length and width of the shoe, attached to the sole and thus overwritten the floor. This process is also not easy, but quite feasible;
Sandpaper. For parquet, you will need paper with a grain size of 60 to 120;

Putty for covering cracks. It must be selected in a color that matches the shade of the wood;
varnish or high quality oil;
Gel. This is a white mass that helps to fill in small irregularities. Gel is a decorative technique and is not an additional layer to ensure wear resistance or moisture resistance;

Glue. In case some wood boards are sinking or loose, it is possible to use a special parquet adhesive. In the place where the boards bend, holes are made, then these holes are filled with a syringe;
Revitalizing paste. Applied with a spatula, has a thick structure. On sale you can find a large color palette, so choosing the right shade will not be difficult. Drying of the paste occurs in less than a day. After applying the paste, the desired areas are ground and varnished;
Rollers and brushes to cover the surface with varnish or oil;

Spatulas for applying putty;
Vacuum cleaner and other consumables: screwdriver, scissors.

Epoxy resin, which itself is colorless, needs to be tinted. Sometimes, in order to hide the seams of epoxy resin, it is advised to add a dye to it. Resin, unlike epoxy glue, is more elastic, it can also be added to various hardeners to obtain the desired composition.

Coating preparation

It is recommended to start the process of preparing the surface for grinding by removing the furniture, removing the baseboard and removing the old coating from the door sills. Next, you need to examine the flooring to see the main flaws. The floors in the apartment must be washed from dust and dirt, remove nails and screws. Grinding is a dusty job, so it is advisable to hang windows and doors.

Features of the process at home

To properly sand the floors with your own hands, you need to follow the step-by-step instructions. Simple manipulations using a grinder make it possible to partially remove imperfections from the coated parquet. Work on removing paint and varnish begins with the processing of identified floor defects.

Tsiklevka

Cycling parquet means taking steps to update the old floor covering. It is produced in several stages, which consist in removing the old layer of the wood surface. The final stage is fine grinding, which will help to obtain a smooth canvas for subsequent varnishing or waxing.

For work, they use a certain tool and material.

Do-it-yourself floor scraping begins with primary grinding. Its task is to remove the surface layer - varnish and bumps. Most often, this is done with sandpaper with a grain size of 40 to 80. If the parquet is too old and very worn out, then these measures must be done twice.

Then the flaws are covered with putty or a mass prepared from a mixture of PVA glue and wood dust. Before scraping, you should pay attention to the joints of the planks, visible gaps need to be repaired. In addition, after the work of the cycles there are irregularities, it is important to level them with fine grinding. After the putty has dried, the parquet is sanded with sandpaper with a grit of 150 to 240 until a smooth surface is obtained.

Floor scraping is usually carried out by the following methods:

The loop is real. Remove the surface layer using cycles;
The cycler is semi-automatic. When grinding occurs with certain hand materials;

The cycler is semi-professional. Update the parquet with a professional grinder.

Self scraping takes quite a lot of hours. For this, a cycle or blade is useful. The blades should be 0.1-0.2 cm wider than the bar in order to prevent the appearance of new flaws and not spoil the joints.

The top layer is cycled from window to door. It is advisable to moisten the parquet first, the wetted wood can be processed faster. It is important to cycle several strips at once. It is better to walk around the baseboards with a grinder.

When the entire coating is cycled, you should cover up visible flaws. Then we grind with a fine sandpaper to obtain a perfectly smooth floor.

The damaged coating layer is removed with tools at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. The machine is applied to the parquet only after turning it on, the pressure for sanding over the entire surface is the same.

Grinding differs from scraping in that during grinding, the damaged layer is not cut off, but combed off with an abrasive material. Sanders have become more widespread than manual scrapers, so this process has become known as parquet sanding.

putty

Putty is a versatile material in the form of a paste that is applied to the surface before varnishing or oiling is started. It levels floors and masks surface imperfections.

Often the question arises about the correct pronunciation of this word - putty or putty. Both pronunciations are believed to be correct.

Putty consists of fillers, binders and coloring pigments. Putties are divided into cement, gypsum and polymer.

How to seal the gaps in the floor depends on many factors, for example, on the type of wood, the size of the holes and the choice of material for the final coating. It is recommended to purchase putty and finishing agent from the same manufacturer.

Before you start puttying the flooring, you need to remove the dust. After that, putty is applied around the entire perimeter of the floor.

To apply putty, you can use special stainless spatulas, as well as rubber and wooden spatulas. Putty is applied in a thin layer. If it turns out that one layer is not enough, then after it dries, it is worth applying another layer. How much putty will be used depends on the condition of the parquet.

Quite often, in order to save the budget, there is puttying of parquet from self-made solutions. Such a solution allows you to make the necessary composition for a specific situation.

Final work

The final stage is a careful grinding and polishing of the parquet. When the putty mixture has completely hardened, a fine abrasive is used to eliminate the imperfections. Next, the floors are vacuumed and varnished or oiled.

You need to choose polishing based on the original state of the parquet boards. Polishing agents by type of surface are divided into matte, semi-gloss and glossy. According to the type of application, manual and machine polishing are distinguished.

One of the good means to give parquet gloss and beauty is mastic. It consists of wax and polymers. After application, a protective layer appears. Mastic is colorless, and also with a shade. Colorless gives the floor a beautiful shine, colored - a certain shade. According to its composition, the mastic is divided into water-soluble, water-based, wax and turpentine.

Water emulsion is suitable for all types of parquet. It is applied to a clean floor and after a while I begin to rub the parquet with a rag or brush;
Water soluble, excellent for oak flooring. Apply it with a brush, after drying with a soft sponge, remove the residual part of the product and leave the floor to dry. Then covered with another layer. After the parquet dries, it should be polished;

Wax is optimal for ash and pine products. This mastic is applied with a special brush on the floor previously cleaned of dust;
Turpentine mastic is used for beech and birch coatings. This mastic contains no water. It is recommended to apply two layers.

Lacquering

Lacquering parquet is a great option to preserve the durability of the parquet floor. In this way, the worn surface is restored and the pattern of the tree is preserved. In addition, varnishing strengthens and protects the surface.

Applying varnish with your own hands is a responsible process. Initially, you need to check that all the necessary tools are available.

Before you start varnishing the surface, it is important to mix the jar of varnish well. The varnish is applied in two layers. Begin the process of applying the material from the window to the door. Two hours later, a second layer is applied across the previous one. It is important to leave a small passage from the room, due to the fact that the varnish dries from several days to a week.

There are several types of parquet varnishes: water-based, alkyd, polyurethane and urethane-alkyd. The most durable are polyurethane varnishes. And the safest are water.

Urethane-alkyd and alkyd varnishes are more economical and stable, but toxic and with a pungent odor.

If the parquet has already been varnished, then it is better to completely remove the varnish from it. If it has only become cloudier, then it is enough to sand its surface and coat it with polyurethane varnish.

Currently, whitening the floor has become popular.

The tinting composition is covered with several layers until the desired shade is achieved. The surface is pre-prepared by grinding and removing dust.

Do not forget about skirting boards either. In this case, they need to change color, like the whole parquet.

Whitening is carried out using varnish or oil.

Often people are faced with the question of the possibility of painting such a coating with paint. This is quite possible, because parquet is a canvas made of wood, and it is of very high quality.

Typically, painting consists of applying stain to the floors to highlight the texture of the material and several varnish coats. So the tree retains the pattern, which looks very beautiful. Sometimes there are cases that the parquet must match the color scheme of the interior, and it is necessary to remove the past coating and install a new one, or transform it with paint.

Therefore, the color of the paint can be absolutely any, depending on the wishes and design of the room.

Recently, the use of natural building materials has become very fashionable, which makes us take a fresh look at the origins. And what could be more traditional and, of course, natural thanwooden floor in a house or apartment? The tree is able to fit perfectly into any interior design, regardless of whether it is in the form of parquet or ordinary boards. Moreover, modern technologies make it possible to paint a tree in any color, while maintaining its original texture.

And whatever the final result, work always begins with grinding. Only after it can the surface be tinted and covered with a protective layer. In addition, both the new and the restored old floor will have to be sanded.

Alas, when sanding wood, you can’t do with the usual improvised means. A special apparatus is required (or rather several), which is quite expensive. Of course, it makes no sense to buy this device for home decoration. Then what to do in such a situation?

There are two options:

rent equipment and carry out all the work yourself;
resort to the help of specialists who will carry out high-quality grinding, but will require a considerable amount for this.

It is quite obvious that the first option is more convenient. But to be sure of this, you need to familiarize yourself with the approximate estimate of each of the options.

To find out how much it will costparquet sanding, you should first study the list of services offered. The fact is that firms engaged in repair work always indicate what this or that cost consists of. But let's not be unfounded, let's consider everything with an example.

The cost of services of repair organizations.

Pre-treatment, grinding and three-layer varnishing - about 650 rubles. per m².
Separate grinding with a drum apparatus - 210 rubles. per m².
A similar procedure using surface grinding equipment - 210 rubles. per m².
Separate putty - 90 rubles. per m².
Separate matting - 90 rubles. per m².
Additional varnishing - about 90 rubles. for each "unscheduled" layer.
Application of the gel on the parquet - 90 rubles. for each layer.

And now let's determine how much all these works will cost for 20 m². We will assume that the gel was applied in two additional layers, and the varnish in four. It turns out the following:

210x20 + 210x20 + 90x20 + 90x20 + 90x2x20 + 90x4x20 = 4200 + 4200 + 1800 + 1800 + 3600 + 7200 = 10,800 rubles.

It turns out that the services of a repair company for grinding will cost about 10,800 rubles.

Now let's see how much similar work done by one's own hands will cost.

Rent of a grinding machine - approximately 1200-2400 rubles. per day.
Renting a portable device - another 720 rubles. per day.
Abrasive material "number forty" - 210 rubles. per running metre.
Abrasive material "number one hundred and twenty" - 165 rubles. per running metre.
Putty - 3600 rubles. for five liters.
Special varnish - 12000–18000 rubles. for ten liters. The consumption of varnish is usually 100 gr. per m².
Toning - 3000 per liter. Approximate consumption - liter per m².
Other materials (brushes, roller, etc.) - another 4800 rubles.

Let's see what happens.

2400 + 720 + 210x2 + 165x2 + 3600 + 12000 + 3000x2 + 4800 = 14,600 rubles.

Of course, some materials (such as varnish or putty) will remain after work in a significant amount, and they can be used in the future. Nevertheless, self-grinding will cost almost 4,000 rubles more than if it were performed by specialists.

But if this is not a strong argument for you and you still intenddo it all by hand, then familiarize yourself with the step-by-step technology of the work.

What will be required in the work

Before you rent a car, you need to take care of all the necessary tools (why would a grinder stand idle for paid hours?). Here is a list of everything you need:

Stage one. Preparation

Before you start grinding, you need to carefully prepare the wooden floor for this. For this:

all furniture is removed from the room;
old nails are removed or recessed;
plinths are dismantled;
the strength of fixation of all dies is checked (if it is planned to reconstruct the old parquet).

Note! Every modern grinder is equipped with a special dust bag. But this does not mean that there will be no dust at all - so that it does not penetrate into neighboring rooms, you need to hang doorways with a damp cloth.

Second phase. Surface treatment

To get started you needfill the grinder with sandpaper. For the first pass, the coarsest grit is often used (often "number forty"). The first pass should be carried out diagonally, moving in the direction of the “fiber” of the parquet.

The device has a special screw, which regulates the pressure of the drum on the floor surface. It is very important that the pressure is correctly adjusted before starting work, because if it is not enough, then the quality of grinding will deteriorate significantly from this. With excessive pressure, the engine will be subjected to heavy loads. It is very easy to determine that the engine cannot cope: its speed decreases, the sound of the device changes.

Note! The grinder consumes 2.5 kilowatts per hour. Therefore, you need to make sure that the electrical wiring and equipment in the building are able to withstand such a load. Also, do not forget about the starting load, which is created by the engine of the device.

In the course of grinding work, the sandpaper must be changed, visually determining the degree of wear. The engine of the device can only be switched on/off while driving. The fact is that if you stop the working device, then on the floor covering as a result there will be noticeable traces, which will be extremely difficult to eliminate.

Grinding with a coarse abrasive should be continued until it is completely leveled and the differences between the dies are evened out. Each time the machine is shifted for a new pass, it must be shifted by half the width of the drum.

Third stage. grinding work

Upon completion of the pre-treatment of the parquet, you should proceed directly to its grinding. At this stage, all defects resulting from the preparation are eliminated. The surface of the material must be smoothed until the irregularities and roughness disappear completely. As a result, the parquet should be smooth and pleasant to the touch.

To do this, it is necessary to use sandpaper with a smaller grain size, gradually reducing the size of the grains. If the gaps between the dies were puttied, then before starting grinding, the remains of the putty should also be removed.

Fourth stage. Treatment of hard-to-reach places

Actually, this can hardly be considered a separate step, since it must be carried out in parallel with grinding. To process the floor at the corners, stairs and under heating radiators, it is advisable to use a portable grinder, which is also called a "boot". Such a device will allow you to process even the most inaccessible places.

Another important point: it is recommended to carry out such grinding in stages, that is, the passage through the center of the room is completed → the corners are processed.

Do-it-yourself parquet sanding. final touch

For the last step, you need to use fine-grained "sandpaper". It is used to remove small imperfections left after the previous stages of surface treatment. It is characteristic that pressure drum in this case should be minimal. The sander must be moved in the direction of the “fiber” of the parquet.

Note! To check the quality of this work, you just need to run your hand over the material - it must be smooth.

First you need to thoroughly vacuum the surface to evenly apply the varnish. If you do not do this, then in the future dirt will be visible under the layer of varnish.

Lacquering is perhaps the most critical step in parquet sanding, because if you do something wrong, you will have to re-pretreat (and sand, of course).

Lacquer should be applied in at least three layers, making after each application a four-hour break for drying. Waiting longer won't hurt - quite the contrary. You can apply a primer first. The varnish must be applied with a roller, the procedure should be performed quickly and immediately throughout the room (the fact is that the varnish dries very quickly). If the hardening occurs unevenly, the whole procedure will have to be repeated again.

After the first layer has dried, the parquet must be processed again with a grinder to remove the raised pile. For this, a special device must be used - it is called an angle grinder - and abrasive material "number one hundred" or "number one hundred and twenty". Then the parquet should be vacuumed again, and at the same time the walls and ceiling - it is likely that some of the dust has become electrified and stuck to them.

After that, the remaining layers of varnish are applied, after which the floor needs to be vacuumed again.

As a conclusion

If you study all the available information about the grinding work and have all the necessary equipment, then you can easilysanding hardwood floors. But if, after reading this material, you have any doubts about the appropriateness of such a step, then once again we recommend that you seek help from specialists. After all, there is no better assistant in the quality of work than many years of experience.

Video - Sanding parquet

Wooden parquet is the most reliable flooring option. It is not surprising that it has been consistently popular for many years, especially among connoisseurs of everything natural. But over time, the floor, lined with parquet, loses its attractive appearance. But there is one way to restore its former attractiveness, which will help get rid of all scratches, stains and other traces of violent life. We are talking about sanding or sanding parquet. Moreover, it is not necessary to use the services of specialists, you can handle it yourself. Let's take a closer look at how do-it-yourself parquet grinding is performed, what equipment you will need for this.

When should you sand?

First you need to find out when you need to do grinding, and when - there is nothing to save and it's easier to just replace the parquet. In order to assess the degree of wear of the parquet, clean it from dust and dirt. It makes sense to do grinding when:

Small scratches, cracks, claw marks from pets and other defects are visible on the parquet.
Separate planks dried out and gaps appeared between them.
The polish has lost its luster and has become dull.
The planks loosened and began to creak.

When will grinding not save the day?

In some cases, grinding does not make sense:

When the parquet is very dry and the gaps between the planks are more than 5 mm.
The floor was heavily swollen after the flood.
If the surface is worn too much in places.
If there are insects in the tree.
If there is mold. In this case, you need to completely remove the old parquet, lay a waterproofing film, and only then re-lay a new coating.

What is needed for looping?

How to sand parquet floor? You can do the grinding manually using a cycle. This is a metal plate with a sharpened and curved edge. But such a process will be very laborious and will not justify itself.

It is better to rent special equipment. The scraping process consists of several stages, for each of which you need to use your own type of equipment:

Drum-type sanding equipment will remove deep layers of your old coating.
A single-disk or three-disk surface grinder will cost you dearly. This multifunctional device is used for fine sanding before tinting or varnishing.
The type of equipment, affectionately called “Boot”, will not interfere with you, which will help to polish all hard-to-reach places.

In addition, you will need:

Sandpaper of different grits.
Putty of the same tone as your coating. It will be needed in order to close up all the bumps and cracks.
You also need a powerful vacuum cleaner to remove all the debris later.
For the final step, you need a good, quick-drying polish.

Choosing equipment

When choosing equipment for floor scraping with your own hands, pay attention to the nuances:

Such equipment consumes power from 1 to 2.5 kW. Not every wiring in the house can withstand this. Especially if you are scraping in a country house.
Choose devices where you can easily and quickly change the sanding belt.

Important! If you have walnut parquet, then choose equipment with dust collectors for work. Dust from such parquet can stain the walls, and it will be difficult to clean them.

Preparatory stage

Before you start sanding the parquet with your own hands, you need to prepare the room. For this:

Move out all the furniture you can. If something cannot be taken out, then cover these things with a film to protect them from dust.
Clean the entire parquet from debris and dirt.
Tap all the slats. If a dull sound is heard somewhere, it means that there is a void under the board, you need to get rid of it. Drill a hole in the plank and fill the entire space with glue. This can be done with a syringe.
Nails must be removed or their heads sunk into the tree.
Dismantle the plinth.
Stock up on a respirator, thick gloves and noise-protective headphones.
Cover doorways with wet sheets. This will prevent the spread of dust.

Sanding parquet

Now we will describe directly the process of updating the flooring itself, because you can admire its beauty and be content with the quality of natural wood for a long time.

How to sand parquet with your own hands?

Fill the machine with the coarsest sandpaper. Grinding is done first along the room, then across. The goal is to remove the old varnish and make the surface even.

Important! Monitor the condition of the sander. Change it on time. Heavily worn sandpaper can ruin the parquet.

After such rough processing, scratches and bumps remain. To remove them, continue sanding, but with fine-grained sandpaper. Work is carried out in the same way - up and down.

Important! Do not forget about hard-to-reach places, such as corners. Here you will come to the aid of "Boot" or manual cycle.

Now the parquet needs to be puttied. To do this, select the putty by color.
When the putty hardens, final grinding is needed. Slightly loosen the pressure of the grinder on the floor. This is done with a screw, which is found on any hardware.

Important! After this grinding, the coating should be perfectly smooth. You can check this by simply running your hand over it.

Now remove all debris and dust with a powerful industrial vacuum cleaner.

Parquet varnishing

Polished parquet must be varnished. Before you start varnishing, you must close all the windows in the room so that there are no drafts. The varnish is applied with a roller. The varnish dries quickly, so we advise you to do it very quickly. If the varnish dries unevenly, the procedure will have to be done again:

First, a primer is applied.
Then varnish is applied in three layers. Each layer must dry properly.
The last layer is applied glossy varnish, which fixes the result.

What are varnishes?

Let's see what types of varnishes the modern market can offer us:

Polyurethane varnishes. Elastic, heat-resistant, UV-resistant. Not afraid of humidity and household chemicals. But such a varnish glues the planks together.

Important! If water gets into such a varnish during the varnishing process, it will begin to foam.

Waterborne varnishes. This is a new product on the market. After the water evaporates, it hardens. It does not release harmful chemicals.

Important! Not suitable for very cold rooms.

High-quality wooden parquet - a very durable coating. But even in spite of gentle operating conditions and careful care, sooner or later its surface ages. The lacquer becomes dark or dull, scratches and cracks appear, the parquet darkens and, what is most offensive, is uneven, i.e. spots. And the condition of the parquet after long-term use in extreme conditions, such as walking in street shoes, furniture on wheels, heavy cabinets and bedside tables without stands, frequent flooding and much more, is out of the question. As a result, deep potholes and grooves from the wheels, peeled or cut varnish in places, large gaps between the planks. What to do? Change flooring? Not worth it. Most of the problems can be solved by sanding the parquet, updating it by removing the top layer and sanding and varnishing the surface. This type of work is quite complicated, very time-consuming and responsible, but it is quite possible to master it on your own if you have patience. A great help is also the variety of special equipment that greatly simplifies the task.

Before you finally decide that you need parquet sanding and all the work that it includes will be enough, you need to check the condition of your flooring. There are times when redecorating a wooden floor is useless.

It does not make sense to sand the parquet if:

The parquet has dried out so much that the gaps between the planks are 5 mm. The entire coating is a grid of dried planks.
The parquet swelled due to getting wet. This problem cannot be solved.
The most passable place is too worn out. For example, in the area of the threshold of the room in the zone of passage of a person there is always a height difference between the planks of the parquet. So, if less than 5 mm is left from the top of the worn planks to the connecting tongue, grinding is meaningless.
There are visible deep bumps or potholes.
The wooden floor is constantly getting wet from the fumes from below. In this case, it is necessary to completely remove the coating, waterproof the base, and only then lay a new one.
Part of the wood has been worn away by a beetle grinder.
There was mold or rot in the room.

The problems listed above are due to various factors: initially incorrect laying, under-dried wood, non-compliance with the technology of laying a wooden floor and too difficult operating conditions. In all other cases, it will be quite enough to qualitatively remove the top lacquered layer of the parquet, and the renewed parquet will shine with fresh wood.

Tools and materials for sanding parquet without dust

Parquet sanding can be done both manually and by machine. The latter, although more expensive, is less laborious and faster.

If finances are not enough even to simply rent equipment, then you can cycle the parquet manual cycle. This tool is a metal plate, one edge of which is bent and sharpened so that it is convenient for them to remove the varnish layer, and the rest of the plate is enclosed in a wooden handle. It is very difficult and difficult to work with a manual cycle, the hand gets tired quickly, and working in the “on all fours” position leads to back pain. However, it can be used to treat the entire surface, even in particularly hard-to-reach places. When sanding parquet with a scraper, a rather large layer of wood is removed, but there is not a lot of dust, as fine as during machine work.

In addition to the manual cycle, you can use sandpaper. It is fixed to the sole of the shoe and then the parquet is rubbed with the feet. This method is also difficult to call easy.

That is why grinders for the mechanized performance of such work are becoming increasingly popular.

Equipment and tools

Sanding old parquet consists of several stages, and for each of them a different type of equipment is used.

Drum parquet sander used for deep scraping of any wooden floors. These machines are in demand on the territory of the Russian Federation, they are reliable, durable and relatively cheap. The most common grinder of this type is the CO-206 unit, which is produced at the Odessa plant in Ukraine. It is equipped with a convenient drum 200 mm wide and a pump that collects the dust generated during the grinding process in a special dust bag. The weak point of the CO-206 parquet grinder is the rubber glued to the drum. It can be damaged if the abrasive (sandpaper) is poorly clamped or the machine runs over a nail or self-tapping screw sticking out of the floor. The total cost of such a grinder is about 1300 - 1700 USD.

Surface grinders There are single and triple discs. They are used for fine sanding of parquet and solid wood floors, for sanding before tinting or tinting, for interlayer sanding when varnishing the surface, as well as during tinting or for applying oils. The cost of such a machine is simply fantastic, so they buy it not for personal use, but for high-quality professional work. Surface grinders are in demand not only due to their reliability, but also their ease of use, versatility and the ability to carry out almost jewelry work with parquet. The most common is the German Lagler Trio grinder, the cost of which is 8500 - 10000 USD.

"Boot" used for sanding hard-to-reach places under radiators, in corners and near edges. All machines of this type are unified, abrasive wheels with Velcro with a diameter of 150 mm are used, and they are also equipped with a dust collector. The most common models are SO-401 (Odessa, Ukraine), Lagler Flip and Lagler Elan (Germany).

Grinders are expensive, they are purchased only by companies involved in parquet work or equipment rental. It is the latter service that must be used by those who want to do the work themselves. If you order a grinding service from companies specializing in this, you should know that the prices for polishing parquet in different organizations depend on the equipment used. The more expensive and better it is, the more expensive the work.

industrial vacuum cleaner necessary to remove all dust from the surface and cracks of the parquet floor. If this is not done, the opening with varnish will be of poor quality.

In addition to all of the above, you will need scissors for cutting sandpaper, tools and keys to fix the abrasive on the drum.

Consumables

In the process of polishing parquet, you will need materials, the amount of which depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and the complexity of the work.

Sandpaper. At different stages of grinding, paper of various grain sizes No. 40, 60, 80, 100 and 120 is used. At least one sample is used on a 20 m2 floor, which is enough to fill the machine. For example, for a drum-type parquet grinder, No. 40 paper is needed, 2000 mm long and 200 mm wide.

putty for sealing cracks (approximately 5 kg). It is selected to match the wood or prepared independently from the liquid component and wood dust, which remains after grinding.
varnish or oil. Consumption of parquet varnish is approximately 5 kg per 10 m2. The most common are Forbo, Resident, LOBA, Flow and others.
rollers And brushes for applying varnish.
Rubber spatulas for applying putty.

It is better to purchase consumables with a margin, since it is impossible to calculate the exact consumption.

Sanding parquet: cost of work and equipment rental

For comparison, consider two options: if you order a grinding service and if you do everything yourself.

If you ask yourself how much parquet polishing costs, then you should immediately pay attention to the list of works provided. Repair organizations always indicate what is included in a particular cost. Let's take an example.

Parquet sanding services:

Work package 1: scraping with a drum-type machine, puttying and varnishing in 3 layers will cost 10 - 11 USD. per m2.
Work package 2: sanding with a drum machine, grinding with a surface grinder, puttying cracks and opening with varnish in 3 layers - 12 - 13 c.u. per m2.
Separately, grinding with a drum-type machine - 2.5 - 3.5 c.u. per m2.
Separately, grinding with a Trio surface grinder - 2.5 - 3.5 c.u. m2.
Separately puttying cracks - 1.25 - 1.5 c.u. per m2.
Separate matting 1.25 - 1.5 c.u. m2.
Application of an additional layer of varnish - 1.25 - 1.5 c.u. per layer.
Floor covering with gel - 1.25 - 1.5 c.u. per layer.

Let's calculate how much such a list of works for 20 m2 will cost: sanding with a drum machine, grinding with a surface grinder, filling cracks, matting, additionally 2 layers of gel and 4 layers of varnish. We will count at the minimum rate.

2.5x20 + 2.5x20 + 1.25x20 + 1.25x20 + 1.25x2x20 + 1.25x4x20 = 150 + 50+ 100 = 300 c.u.

In total, parquet grinding services will cost us 300 USD for 20 m2.

Now let's calculate how much it will cost us do-it-yourself parquet sanding:

Rent of a parquet grinder - 18 - 20 c.u. per day.
Surface grinder rental - 37.5 - 40 c.u. per day.
Rent "boot" - 10 - 12 USD per day.
Sandpaper No. 24, 30, 36, 40 - 3.25 - 3.5 c.u. per linear m.
Sandpaper #60, 80, 100 - $2.875 per m.
Sandpaper No. 120, 150 - 2.75 c.u. per m.
Putty for parquet - 60 c.u. for 5 l.
Lacquer for parquet - 150 - 300 c.u. for 10 l. Consumption 80 - 100 g per m2.
Toning composition for parquet - 50 c.u. for 1 liter Consumption 1 liter up to 40 m2.
Consumables (rollers, brushes, etc.) - 60 - 80 USD

We count: 18+38+10+3.25x2+2.87x2+2.75x2+60+150+50+60 = $403.

As you can see, even if you can complete the work in one day, i.e. you won’t have to overpay for rent, anyway, taking into account the materials, you will spend more than when ordering a grinding service from professionals.

Do-it-yourself parquet grinding - stages of work

Polishing old parquet is a responsible and time-consuming task, it is better to entrust it to professionals. But if you want to do everything yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists, then you will need exact instructions on what to do. In addition, even if you decide to order grinding in a repair organization, knowing the sequence of work and the nuances, you can control the quality of performance.

Preparatory work before grinding

The very first task that needs to be done is to check the quality of the parquet on the subject, and whether it makes sense to grind it. What criteria was described at the beginning of the article.

Before starting work, all the furniture is taken out of the room, the skirting boards are removed, and the floor is checked to see if there are torn-off dies or not. Quite often, wooden skirting boards in old houses are nailed to the floor tightly. In order not to damage the coating, they can be left. We glue the torn off planks of parquet back. If it is necessary to repair parquet - eliminate squeaks, dips, etc., we carry out repair work.

We inspect the entire surface of the parquet floor for protruding nails or self-tapping screws. They must be sunk into the wood by at least 2 - 3 mm so that they do not damage the abrasive. The final touch is washing and vacuuming the floor.

Only after all the preparatory work can you purchase materials and rent equipment. The best time to book a rental is early in the morning. Please note that the weight of the grinders is very large (about 70 kg), for work you will need at least two such heavy machines. Don't forget to stock up on a mask-gown, earplugs or earmuffs, and a respirator. Despite the presence of a dust bag, it will not be possible to do absolutely without dust. It will be less than without it, but it will be small and very dangerous, as it can easily enter the respiratory tract.

Deep sanding parquet

Before starting work, open all windows and close the doors. On the drum parquet grinder SO-206 fill with coarse sandpaper.

No. 16 is used to remove old drying oil or varnish from the floor.

No. 24 - 40 is used for removing paint and the top layer of wood.

No. 60 - universal paper for rough grinding.

Most often, paper No. 40 is taken to begin with. First, we make a passage with the machine along the diagonal of the room, from one corner to another. Then we move the machine to the wall and start the passages along the wall and parallel to it. The width of the drum is 200 mm, so each subsequent pass must be offset by 100 mm.

Important! The movements of the parquet sander should be along the wood fibers. Only on U-turns is allowed a short movement across. For artistic parquet, the movements should be circular in a twisting spiral.

At this stage, corners and hard-to-reach places are not touched. It is better to start from the far wall and move towards the most passable area. Dust from the dust collector can be poured into a plastic or plastic bag.

Important! It is necessary to raise and lower the parquet sander in motion so that a depression does not form on the floor.

Be sure to monitor how hard the drum presses on the floor surface. This can be adjusted with a special screw. If the machine removes too little wood, and the engine speed is normal, it is necessary to increase the pressure of the drum on the floor. If on the contrary - removes too much - reduce.

The abrasive should be changed as needed.

Sanding hard-to-reach places under radiators, corners and edges

After rough sanding, varnish spots should remain in recesses, in hard-to-reach places, near pipes and edges. We carry out grinding of the unfinished surface angle grinder ("boot"). We fill the skin No. 40 or No. 60.

Spots of varnish in the middle of the room are removed in a circular motion, moving from the edges of the stain to the center.

In the corners and near the edges, we remove the top layer of wood, moving the machine from the edge of the treated surface to the wall and back, with pendulum movements.

Work on the primary scraping is carried out until the entire surface of the floor and its shade are leveled.

Now comes to work surface grinder, a good option is a machine with three TRIO disks. With it, it is necessary to remove all the bumps, burrs, scratches and ruts that remain after deep sanding.

Sandpaper is put on the discs in the following sequence: first No. 40, then No. 60, 80 and final - 100. With a surface grinder, we pass along the floor surface only 3-4 times (each time with a different sandpaper).

Each time we make two passes - in one direction and in the opposite direction. Discs of the same grain size change as they wear.

After processing a flat surface, we proceed to grinding hard-to-reach places with the same angle grinder. Only one disc can be loaded into it. First grit #40, then 60 and 100. Sanding until the surface is smooth.

Puttying parquet cracks

Before filling cracks in parquet, it is necessary to vacuum it thoroughly. Despite the dust collector, there will still be wood dust. It must be removed.

For puttying parquet, you can use ready-made putty in the color of wood, or you can knead the liquid component with wood dust that remains after sanding and sanding, and prepare the putty yourself. The main thing is to carefully read the instructions on the package.

The entire floor surface putty the resulting composition. To do this, we use a rubber putty spatula. The solution should be distributed evenly, filling all the gaps, both between the planks and on their surface.

When the putty dries a little, i.e. will not be handled, but will still be soft, you need to quickly complete imitation of joints. This is done with an awl under a metal ruler. Curved joints can be made with the edge of the ruler by lightly pressing on it. The period of gelatinization of putty depends on its composition. For example, for alkyd and uralkyd materials, hardening begins literally minutes after application, so you have to hurry.

Fine sanding of parquet

To remove excess putty from the floor surface, it is again polished with a surface grinder with sandpaper No. 100. This work can be performed only after the complete drying of the putty composition. When finishing grinding, the pressure of the drum is reduced, the machine is moved only in the direction of the wood fibers. Fine grinding is carried out until the surface is perfectly smooth, you can check this by running your hand over the floor surface.

Opening parquet with varnish or oil

Before applying varnish to the parquet, it must be thoroughly vacuumed, otherwise the varnish will lie unevenly. And under a layer of varnish, accumulations of dust or dirt will be noticeable.

Coating parquet with varnish is the most important task in grinding work. If you do it poorly, you will have to scrape and grind again.

The varnish is applied in 3 - 4 layer, each of them dries for about 4 hours, but if you wait longer, it's okay. Under parquet varnish, you can apply a primer or tinting composition. The varnish is applied with a roller immediately to the entire surface of the floor and is quickly distributed over it, as it dries very quickly. If it freezes unevenly, you will have to redo everything.

After applying the first layer of varnish and its complete drying, it is necessary to sand the surface again, removing the raised wood pile. We do this with a surface grinder or angle grinder with sandpaper No. 100 or No. 120. Once again we vacuum the floor, walls and ceiling - suddenly fine dust is electrified and sticks to them.

Now apply the remaining layers of varnish. When the last layer is dry, vacuum the floor surface again.

In conclusion, I would like to note that the grinders are very noisy, you can only work during the day, with the permission of the neighbors, when the children are awake and always wear headphones. In addition, the power and starting current of such machines are very high. Quite often there are situations when the old wiring is not able to ensure the full operation of the grinder and you have to use a generator or a powerful stabilizer. The severity and large vibrations of such machines do not allow them to be used by fragile women. The limited term of equipment rental can make you rush and make mistakes. Consider all this, it may be better to turn to specialists.