Inexpensive and beautiful cladding of the foundation. How to finish the basement of a house from the outside - an overview of cladding options Finishing the basement is a budget option

Whatever house is built, its entire structure is always based on on solid foundation of one kind or another. The value of this structural element simply cannot be overestimated - it is he who takes over and distributes all the main weight loads. As a rule, the foundation always protrudes somewhat above the ground, forming the so-called basement. And now the question inevitably arises before the owner of the house - how to finish the basement?

There are many options for solving such a problem. But first of all, it’s worth understanding - is it necessary to finish the basement?

Why is the plinth lined?

Many homeowners see plinth trim only as a special design touch to the overall exterior of their home. The desire to make your home as beautiful as possible outwardly is quite understandable and justified, but it turns out that decorativeness in this case, although important, is still secondary. The main purpose of the basement cladding is still different:

• Even such a seemingly indestructible element of a building as a foundation needs protection from external influences. Facing minimizes the effect of precipitation, high humidity, temperature changes, and direct sunlight on the plinth material.
• The walls of the house at the level of the basement are most susceptible to pollution. The liquid mud that gets on them always contains a lot of chemically aggressive substances that can cause erosion processes even in monolithic concrete.
• The plinth should also be protected from the development of biological life forms on its surface - mold spots, fungus colonies, insect nests.
• If possible, buildings should also be considered. At first glance, it’s a paradox, why insulate it if all the living quarters are located higher. However, this view is erroneous:

- By itself, the basement array becomes a very capacious accumulator of cold, it does not even form a “bridge”, but a whole “highway” for the penetration of low temperatures into the premises, from which even a conscientiously insulated floor of the first floor may not be saved. A significant part of the energy resources spent on heating will simply be wasted.

- The material from which the foundation is made, be it concrete, brick or stone, under the influence of low winter temperatures can freeze through, which activates erosion processes and reduces its strength.

So, the conclusion is categorical - the basement needs a high-quality finish for both operational and decorative reasons. What type of finish to choose? This will depend on the design features of the building, and on the preferences of the owner of the property, and on its financial capabilities.

Types of materials used for finishing the basement

Plastering and painting

One of the easiest ways to finish is to apply a layer of durable plaster to the surface of the plinth.

One of the easiest options is plastering the basement.

This finish will create a good sewn layer, characterized by high vapor permeability. The main advantage of this method is its low cost and availability of materials. Doing such work yourself or finding a master plasterer is usually not a big problem. And options giving there is a lot of decorativeness to such a base.

• Firstly, it can simply be painted with special resistant facade paints. A wide range of shades is on sale, and there is always the opportunity to choose the most suitable for the intended exterior design of the building.
• Secondly, a great solution would be to apply a finishing layer. A wide palette of colors and "rich" textures should satisfy any homeowner's needs.

• But that's not all. If you show imagination, then even just a plastered surface can be given a very original look.

Stone? No, this is a plastered plinth ...

In the photo, the plinth, it would seem, is trimmed with stone. In fact, each "cobblestone" is nothing more than a slide of ordinary concrete mortar, hand-formed right on the surface of the base.

... "cobblestones" of which are molded by hand ...

To sculpt such "stones" no special skill is required - the main thing is to make a high-quality dense solution. Everything else is the imagination and efforts of the home master. After hardening, it remains to decorate with the help of dyes - and the plastered base will become indistinguishable from stone.

... and tinted with paint

The disadvantages of the technology for finishing the basement with plaster include the relative fragility of the coating - you will have to constantly monitor the condition of the applied layer and timely repair or update damaged, cracked areas.

Finishing the plinth with DSP panels with real stone and granite chips

Of course, stone is the best option for plinth sheathing. But the question of price stops many. Especially for those who want to get a reliable and “expensive” plinth for many years, Eskosell panels from the Komak Plat brand were developed.

DSP panels

You get natural stone for the price of plastic. How does this happen? The basis of the panels is a rigid CSP plate, on which a crumb of stone and granite is applied. The large size of the crumb (5-6mm) qualitatively distinguishes the panel from plaster and analogues. Eskosell can provide your home with high-quality protection against mechanical damage and vandalism, they easily tolerate changes in temperature and humidity. A layer of epoxy adhesive compound and natural stone chips is not only home decor, but also a protective waterproof layer. It should also be taken into account that Eskosell are made from natural ingredients and do not emit various harmful substances even in case of fire.

Panel types

Prices for cement-bonded particle boards (DSP)

Cement particle boards (DSP)

Benefits of Eskosell Stone Chip Rounding Panels:

• ECOLOGY: not containing substances such as formaldehyde, asbestos, phenol, etc.
• FIRE-RESISTANT (G1): in case of fire they do not melt and do not emit harmful components into the air;
• FROST-RESISTANT: installation can be carried out at any time of the year, they will not crack either from frost or from temperature changes;
• WATER RESISTANT: the front surface of the plate is moisture resistant;
• BIOSTABLE: Eskosell prevent mold and mildew;
• RELIABILITY: will serve you and your home for more than 50 years;
• VANDAL-RESISTANT: hard, solid, anti-vandal material;
• EASY INSTALLATION: can be mounted without additional elements, using self-tapping screws or glue.

Eskosell chip panels

Sheathing the plinth with panels can be done simply with the help of screws. Or glue it on with foam adhesive. Unlike other panels Eskosell do not require additional elements for installation.

Finishing the plinth with natural stone

This type of finish, of course, can be called "elite". A building with such a base always looks very advantageous, and has excellent performance characteristics and will last a very long time.

Plinth with natural stone cladding - looks very rich

For cladding, specially prepared stone slabs are used - slabs, usually 20 ÷ 30 mm thick, which can have either a regular geometric shape or uneven edges, which gives a special decorative effect.

The surface of the stone can also be chosen to your taste - from polished to a mirror finish to rough chips.

With all the beauty and practicality of this type of plinth finish, it also has many disadvantages:

• Such cladding has a very significant weight, therefore it gives an additional load on the foundation of the building, especially in cases where the basement has a large surface area. If it is planned to finish with natural stone, then this is usually calculated at the design stage of the building.
• Large mass of stone slabs predetermines the increased complexity of their installation. So, very often even the highest quality adhesive solution is not enough, so there is a need for additional reinforcement and the use of special stops.
• Another significant drawback is, of course, the price of the material and the cost of installation work, which are far from always available for independent execution.

Even the most inexpensive types of natural stone - shell rock or limestone - cost more than 1200 - 1500 rubles per m². Granite and marble, with a polished or chipped surface, are more expensive types.

Well, if there is a desire to achieve complete exclusivity, then wealthy homeowners sometimes resort to cladding with materials such as gabbro or even labradorite, the price of which is generally "sky-high".

Video: lining the basement with sandstone

Facing with artificial stone

In the case when you really want to use the stone lining of the basement, but the material possibilities or the design features of the building make it impossible, you can resort to another option - to purchase an artificial stone.

The cost of an artificial analogue is much less, the mass of the material is not so significant, and the illusion of naturalness is almost complete.

This material is made from cement-containing mixtures, often with the addition of light fractions (for example, expanded clay crushed stone), special polymer plasticizers and micro-reinforcing components. Tiles are produced using vibrocasting technology in special silicone molds that exactly repeat the natural texture of the stone, or by hyperpressing.

Laying hyper-pressed tiles "under the stone"

The form of release may be different. So, piece tiles with standardized correct sizes are widely used. No less popular are sets that are assembled per unit area, individual tiles of which can have different linear dimensions. Such finishing of the basement is carried out in the usual way - laying on building tile adhesive for external work.

Canyon type artificial stone panels

To facilitate the installation of the plinth cladding, you can purchase ready-made panels made of artificial stone, for example, of the Canyon type. At the production stage, metal mounting brackets are embedded in their concrete structure, having a verified geometric arrangement. These parts make it possible to mount the finished panels on the surface of the plinth not on the mortar, but on the fasteners - an indisputable advantage, especially when facing along the guides of the subsystem.

Find out how to swipe with detailed instructions from our new article.

If desired, such panels can also be installed on an adhesive solution - brackets bent inward will only increase the reliability of adhesion to the surface.

Another option - artificial stone tiles are attached with reliable polyurethane adhesive to a rigid base, with or without insulation - this can be a slab of OSB, fiber cement or glass-magnesite. Such a substrate greatly simplifies the installation of the cladding, and gives it additional thermal insulation qualities.

The well-thought-out locking part of the panels completely hides the joints between them, creating the effect of natural masonry. The texture of the outer surface can be chosen to your liking - rocks, crushed stone, tuff, slate, etc. Mosaic solutions are also popular, with the inclusion of artificial mini slabs different texture or color.

Prices for the range of plinth panels

Plinth panels

Finishing the plinth with brick or "under the brick"

Strictness always gives the building a special respectability and harmonizes perfectly with any possible type of decoration of the rest of the facade area. To achieve this effect, you can use one of the existing options:

• Plinth cladding with natural bricks. This approach has the advantage that it is possible to create a ventilated gap between the plinth itself and the cladding, or fill this space with insulating material. In addition, the brick itself will also serve as additional thermal insulation, especially if its hollow varieties are used. However, it must be remembered that the brickwork itself will need a strip foundation - this issue should be considered when planning construction. Although they act differently - they create their own support for the masonry, which will subsequently be combined with a concrete pavement around the foundation.

For lining the basement, various types of bricks are used.

- The heaviest - hyper-pressed, characterized by very high strength and extremely low water absorption - what is especially necessary for the plinth. You can buy bricks of various sizes - from the "Russian" standard 250 × 120 × 60 mm to the elongated "American".

- The most economical option is silicate brick, but it is not particularly popular for such finishing work.

- Ceramic bricks, including clinker ones, usually have a hollow internal structure, which significantly reduces the weight of the cladding itself and gives a pronounced thermal insulation effect.

• However, it is not always possible to perform real brickwork and, to be honest, it is far from always advisable, because such a decorative effect can be completely achieved using facing.

A simpler and more affordable option - clinker tiles

The material of its manufacture is in no way inferior in its performance to brick, and properly laid tiles give an absolutely reliable visibility of full-fledged brickwork. A variety of sizes, colors, external textures, special ways of decorating the surface (according to the technologies of artificial aging, uneven firing, inclusion of additional fragments) allows you to give the basement of the building absolutely unique view.

As a rule, collections of clinker facing tiles also include corner elements that make it possible to simplify laying as much as possible without violating its overall pattern.

• It will be even easier to veneer the protruding part of the foundation "under the brick" if you use the plinth panels.

They can be produced on a thermally insulating polyurethane foam or polystyrene base. Tiles (clinker or artificial stone) are located and fixed on it with exact observance of the rows of "brickwork", interlocking pazoridge connections will not allow you to make mistakes during installation. Spaces are provided for placing fasteners for mounting panels to a wall or subsystem rails. Be sure to have elements for decorating external corners without breaking the linearity and “spreading” the rows.

Socle thermal panels - both decorative finishes and reliable insulation

In this case, it is preferable - the panels are more durable, the tiles are glued into them especially reliably, they have higher thermal insulation qualities. If you have to purchase polystyrene foam panels, then preference should be given to extruded PPS of increased density.

Video: installation of basement thermal panels

• If there is no need to insulate the basement, then it is worth purchasing such panels without a thermal insulation layer. In this case, the basis for rows of clinker tiles can be glass-magnesite, OSB or fiber cement panels.

- Fiber cement - durable, environmentally friendly, high impact strength. However, they are quite heavy, which predetermines the complexity of installation. In addition, such panels do not like fracture loads, that is, they require special care during transportation and temporary storage.

- OSB-based panels have practically no drawbacks - they are light, environmentally friendly, not afraid of external influences, of course, with the proper quality of the base.

— Glass magnesite is the most modern solution, since the material does not burn, withstands heating to very high temperatures, is not afraid of frost, and is resistant to ultraviolet radiation. A particular advantage is the flexibility that allows do work on walls, even those with a slight curvature that could not be eliminated by other methods.

Regular Thickness glass-magnesite bases - 8 mm, and this does not reduce the strength of the products and does not weigh down the overall design of the cladding

Basement siding finish

The design features of the plinth or the entire facade cladding system do not always allow the use of natural or artificial stone (brick). It's okay, a very high-quality finish can also be done using basement siding, which will give full visibility to natural material.

Plinth trimmed with polymer panels - siding

Under the concept of "basement siding" lies a huge variety of finishes. Panels can seriously differ in size, design, and material of their manufacture.

Plinth siding is made of polyvinyl chloride, polymer sand mixtures, fiber cement, other composite materials. As a rule, the panels are mounted on subsystem guides (in rare cases, directly on the wall), which makes it possible to place the required thickness of the insulation layer.

The dimensions of the panels and their shape can also be very diverse. Most often, the panels have a locking part and specially provided areas for attaching them to the rails.

There are so many options for surface texture, imitation of a particular material, colors that it is difficult to even describe them very approximately.

In addition to the traditional structure, basement siding panels can also look like rounded wooden beams (block house), ship planks or roughly chipped shingles.

The original solution - basement siding, imitating wood shingles

The main advantage of this approach to finishing the plinth is the low weight of the material, ease of installation, relative durability of the resulting lining and ease of maintenance.

Video: stone-like polymer basement siding

A necessary element for finishing the basement - ebbs

The basement of the building can have a different location. So, it can be slightly "drowned" relative to the surface of the walls. There is a basement flush with the rest of the facade, although this option is considered the most unfortunate - the base is not adequately protected from precipitation. Most often, the base protrudes outward in the form of a kind of step. It is in this case that its decoration will lose its meaning if it is not accompanied by the installation of ebbs.

Mandatory element with a protruding base - ebbs

These structural finishing elements will reliably protect the protruding part of the foundation from direct precipitation, drain water from the basement surface, and prevent moisture from penetrating into the gaps between the wall and the cladding materials

Drains can be made from different materials.

• In most cases, metal castings are used, which are produced from galvanized steel sheet with a polymer coating, which also becomes additional protection against corrosion and gives the required decorative effect.

The most common are polymer-coated steel

You can find ebbs from aluminum, and as the most expensive option - even from sheet copper: they will harmonize especially well with the copper roof of the building.

Exclusive option - ebbs from sheet copper

Video: installation of metal tides on the plinth

• Plastic moldings will cost a little less, but this material does not have the same durability as sheet metal, simply for reasons of lower mechanical strength. To protect the base, this option is used infrequently. Although, if the walls of the house are finished with PVC siding, then the polymer tide will look very advantageous.
• If the ledge of the plinth is large enough, and its lining is made of brick or clinker tiles, then laying out tides from profiled ceramic (clinker) blocks becomes an excellent option.

They can be in the form of a brick with edges beveled to one side, or in the form of rectangular tiles with a plane inclined to the horizon to ensure water runoff. The surface is normal or with a glazed layer applied (smalt tiles).

Profiled clinker panels with smalt coating - beautiful, but expensive

This ebb belt looks very impressive. But, it is true, its arrangement will require large material costs and labor intensive a laying process that only a very highly qualified master can perform.

So, there are a lot of options for how to finish the basement. You should evaluate in advance your financial resources, the fundamental possibility, expediency, decorativeness and performance of the selected cladding, the availability of its independent implementation. Ideally, all these issues should be considered at the stage of drafting the future structure.

As soon as the box of a new house is ready, you need to think about finishing the foundation. Here it is important to choose the appropriate finishing option, taking into account the type of plinth and the overall design of the facade. Otherwise, finishing the outside of the foundation of the house with your own hands or with the help of hired workers will look careless and will not be combined with the overall design. So, what materials are most popular for plinth cladding?

What is a plinth for? This is the lower part of the outer walls, located at the very foot of the house and designed to protect the underground space from the external environment. In a number of buildings, this is a separate element, erected directly above the foundation, in others - a single whole with it.

Be that as it may, the plinths must be additionally protected with a finish from moisture, dust, wind and other environmental influences. Plinths also differ in the type of location in relation to the plane of the facade. Here are the main types:

• sinking- the easiest option to use. Due to the design of the plinth, there is no need to additionally install drains, since it is protected from water and snow by a wall protruding above it. Such plinths are easier to protect from aggressive environmental influences, as well as from mechanical damage. If we consider this type in terms of design, then sunken plinths look the most attractive.
• Plinth protruding from under the wall- an option for buildings with fairly thin walls or if a warm room is provided in the basement. It requires a mandatory drain, otherwise water and snow, accumulating on the ledge, will gradually destroy the foundation of the house.
• Plinth flush with the wall. This design is used very rarely, since it is difficult to provide the necessary degree of waterproofing of the building foundation.

In terms of practicality, plinths are best made from materials such as cast-in-place concrete, natural stone or fired bricks due to their high strength. However, it cannot be said that the concrete plinth looks beautiful enough, so a front finish is necessary - it will add additional attractiveness to the house.

Whatever finishing material for the plinth is chosen, the foundation in any case must be protected with a layer of waterproofing and only after that proceed with facing work. What materials are best for this?

Finishing the plinth with plaster

For lining the basement, any decorative plaster is used, it can be textured or smooth, marbled, colored, etc. In any case, pre-treatment of the walls is necessary - cleaning and priming. Some types of plasters require the additional application of a special reinforcing mineral-based paint.

If, after examining the base before work, you notice rather impressive irregularities, potholes, protrusions or geometric errors, be sure to mount the reinforcing mesh before applying the plaster. This is necessary for better adhesion of the plaster mortar to the base.

The mesh will also be needed if the wall is perfectly flat, but the layer of plaster is thicker than 1.2 cm. The reinforcing material can be anything - fabric, welded or wicker, the choice depends only on the thickness of the layer. If you plan to apply plaster in a thin layer, fiberglass can be used. Reinforcement is necessary not only for adhesion, but also to protect the coating from cracking during operation.

When applying plaster, you can show your imagination - the surface can be with patterns, embroidery, prints, or just rough or smooth. The graininess of the plaster also affects the appearance. Facade paints of a suitable color are often used as a finishing layer.

More sophisticated finishes

Finishing the basement of a house with your own hands can be carried out using a variety of materials. The most popular of them:

• natural stone (marble, granite, sandstone, limestone);
• porcelain stoneware;
• ceramic tile;
• siding panels and other materials.

When choosing the type of finish, it is worth focusing not only on the technical characteristics of the material and the complexity of installation, but also on the aesthetic aspect - the finish should be in harmony with both the main facade and the roof, door and window cladding, and even with the stair railing, if any.

Facing with siding

Siding is one of the most versatile finishing materials, as it can be easily used to finish any surface. Depending on the design tasks assigned to it, the panels can be an imitation of natural brick, ship timber, natural stone or slate. Installation of siding panels is so simple that even beginners will not have any difficulties with it - just stock up on the necessary tools and follow the instructions clearly.

Basement siding as a finish has a number of advantages:

1. High strength, ability to withstand high loads.
2. Color resistance to UV - it will not fade over time.
3. Ease of installation.
4. High waterproofing qualities - the material does not absorb and does not let water through.
5. Service life up to 50 years.
6. Good resistance to any mechanical damage.

Important: these qualities are characteristic of basement siding, do not confuse it with the usual one used for front wall decoration of the house.

Despite the resemblance, siding panels for the base are much stronger and more reliable, and the base material includes special substances. It is due to them that the panels acquire higher performance characteristics than conventional facade siding.

The most organically looks like finishing the base under a stone or brick. Siding panels imitating real masonry are no worse than their natural counterpart in terms of strength and resistance to external factors.

Such siding does not require additional processing after installation. Vinyl, on the basis of which the panels are made, does not require any painting, or grouting of the joints between the panels, or planned work to renovate the facade. For decades, vinyl will not crack and look like new, and its waterproofing qualities do not deteriorate with time.

Siding is a lightweight material, which is why it is so easy to install. The panels practically do not put pressure on the foundation, so there is no need for additional reinforcement. Such material is suitable for both new buildings and very old houses. Wood trim is no exception, but in this case, it is necessary to take care of breathability.

If we talk about the price, then the purchase of material and work will cost a little more than when using polymer panels. Some, choosing between these two seemingly similar materials, acquire a more economical option. However, in pursuit of savings, it should be borne in mind that siding, although more expensive, is stronger and more reliable than PVC.

PVC plinth façade trim

Even the strongest foundation needs reliable protection from aggressive environmental influences - precipitation, sun, temperature extremes, mold, etc. In addition, it is the base that takes almost all mechanical damage, it is easy to hit it with a tool when, for example, mowing a lawn Location on. The protection of the foundation must be approached more seriously than the rest of the house.

At the same time, it is important to choose not only high-quality and durable facing material, its appearance should be combined with both the decoration of the house and the surrounding landscape. By choosing the wrong material, you can get a not too beautiful design.

The second most popular material after siding is PVC panels for exterior decoration. According to the experience of many designers and builders, these panels have several undeniable advantages:

1. Due to the thicker layer, plinth PVC plates withstand impressive loads on the facade.
2. The appearance remains unchanged for decades.
3. The panels are resistant to any chemical and biological substances.
4. PVC is not afraid of severe frosts and fire.

PVC panels are easy to assemble - the elements are assembled according to the puzzle principle. For reliable fastening of the plates to the wall, it is necessary to use self-tapping screws and a prudently installed wooden or metal frame.

With the help of PVC panels, you can kill two birds with one stone - provide reliable protection for the foundation of the building and give the appearance of the house a complete and beautiful appearance. Due to the wide range of colors and the abundance of a wide variety of textures (imitations of natural materials such as stone, marble slabs, sea pebbles or red brick), you can decorate the facade in any style: from calm classic to artsy modern.

In addition, the panels are able to hide most of the shortcomings of the foundation that arose during its construction - bumps, potholes and others.

If you want to finish the repair as quickly as possible - plinth PVC panels are exactly the option that you will like in terms of price, quality and ease of installation.

stone finish

Natural stone slabs for home cladding will never go out of style. This is the most reliable and durable material of all for finishing the plinth. Previously, due to the high cost of raw materials, stone houses were the privilege of only very rich and noble people, in our time, stone is just one of the options for facade decoration.

Due to the variety of prices, you can choose the option that suits you. It is not at all necessary to veneer the facade with expensive marble or granite; it is quite possible to opt for a lighter and more inexpensive sandstone.

Regardless of the cost of the material, the stone facade looks luxurious and presentable, and the protective characteristics of the stone are superior to any other materials - it is not afraid of damage, chemicals, fire, water, precipitation, ultraviolet radiation and mold. Such a base will last more than one generation. However, despite the obvious advantages over other materials, natural stone has no less impressive disadvantages. The main part comes down to:

• a lot of weight and, as a result, very difficult installation - it is quite difficult to finish the plinth with a stone with your own hands;
• strengthening the foundation, otherwise it simply will not withstand the weight of the stone;
• very high price.

Nevertheless, despite the biting prices and the forthcoming difficulties with installation, many choose this particular finishing option - the advantages of natural stone outweigh its disadvantages on all fronts. With a stone plinth, you can not worry about the reliability and safety of the foundation.

Porcelain stoneware as a finish

If natural stone is too expensive a finishing option, and you want to give the facade an impressive and rich look, you can use porcelain stoneware - an artificial type of stone. In terms of its qualities, it is in no way inferior to its natural and more expensive counterpart.

Porcelain stoneware is distinguished by a low degree of water absorption, which, on the one hand, makes it resistant to even the most severe frosts, and, on the other hand, limits it in laying methods. Such a stone is mounted either with the help of special adhesive mixtures, or using a frame.

Important: cement cannot be used as a binding element - in the very first winter, the stone can peel off the wall.

Porcelain stoneware is quite diverse in appearance, its surface can be matte or glossy, satin, glazed or intentionally aged. The finish imitating the texture of fabric, natural leather or the so-called wild stone looks very beautiful and unusual.

The installation of porcelain stoneware differs little from the cladding technology using plinth siding panels, so that all the necessary work can be done independently. Main stages:

1. Foundation preparation. Thoroughly clean the surface of the foundation from dirt, dust and small debris, prime the base. Calculate the required material in advance, but the dimensions of porcelain stoneware panels can be adjusted right before installation, which is especially convenient when finishing corners.
2. The method of fastening largely depends on climatic conditions. If you live in a fairly cold climate, it is better to use a frame that will play the role of additional thermal insulation. Such work is longer and more complicated, but does not require the services of professionals - with due diligence, you can do everything yourself.
3. Instead of wood, it is better to use stronger and more reliable metal slats. When mounting the frame grille, be sure to leave gaps between it and the wall for air circulation.
4. The frame is installed within 15-20 cm from the ground - it is to this height that the soil rises, freezing in winter.
5. In the left gap, you must definitely put a heater of your choice - mineral wool, polystyrene foam or foam plastic.
6. After the installation of the frame, the porcelain stoneware slabs themselves are installed, they are attached to the grate with the help of clamps.

If you decide to mount porcelain tiles with glue, it will take much less time, effort and materials. A layer of glue is simply applied to the base, and a slab is laid on it. In this case, neither frames nor heat-insulating materials are needed.

Ceramic (clinker) tiles as a finish

This is a very popular material for facing the foundation, similar in its characteristics to porcelain stoneware, but cheaper in cost. Clinker can reproduce the structure of a brick, be polished to a shine or deliberately rough, made to look like a stone. In terms of installation complexity, tile occupies an intermediate position between porcelain stoneware and siding.

What do the main stages of finishing work look like:

1. The first step, of course, is to prepare the foundation - the base is thoroughly cleaned, leveled and primed.
2. To install the tiles, you need a special frost-resistant glue. Dilute it to the consistency indicated in the instructions, and use a spatula to apply a layer of no thinner than 4 mm to the wall. Make sure that voids do not form in the process - if water gets into them, then during frost it will freeze, and the tile will move away from the wall.
3. Installation starts from the outer corner with an offset - the vertical seams in the rows should not coincide with each other. For convenience, use special crosses so that the laying is even.
4. As soon as the glue dries, you can proceed to the last step - grouting. Unlike interior decoration, when lining the basement, it is necessary to use compounds that are resistant to sub-zero temperatures.

Since the soil level around the perimeter of the foundation is constantly changing, it is necessary to calculate the number of rows of tiles in advance - the final result depends on two factors:

• the dimensions of the tile itself;
• seam widths.

To make it more convenient - measure the line of the second row from the soil and draw a flat horizontal line. Instead of marking, you can use an auxiliary bar.

This finish looks very nice - the clinker perfectly imitates natural facing bricks. Given the high cost of the brick itself, the use of ceramic tiles in decoration is a reasonable option. Such a base will look elegant and expensive. An interesting decorative effect can be achieved using a grout that contrasts in color.

The tile is mounted not only on the basement, but also partially on the walls, you can additionally finish only the corners of the house and window and door openings. The natural tones of clinker blend well with those of ceramic tiles and most other materials.

If desired, tiles can be mounted not only on glue, but also on a frame, by analogy with porcelain stoneware, if you are planning to equip a ventilated facade. In latitudes with cold winters, the second option is recommended. It requires large financial and physical costs, but is much more reliable compared to the adhesive laying method. Between the frame and the foundation, you can lay a layer of insulation.

So, all of the above types of plinth cladding are good - none of them is better or worse than the other. When choosing the material that will be used to decorate the foundation of the house, be guided only by your own taste, convenience and financial capabilities.

Any homeowner, sooner or later, is faced with the fact that it is time to repair or simply ennoble the building of a house or office. When choosing materials for the facade and roof, one should not forget about such an important element of the structure as the plinth. Its decoration must be taken care of separately, but naturally, it must be combined with the overall appearance, style and materials. There can be several options for installing a basement: flush with the wall of the building, protruding and sinking - the choice of finishing material and application technology will also depend on its original structure.

Plinth finish options

Today, construction companies performing turnkey repairs offer several options for finishing the basement:

• plaster,
• mosaic plaster,
• brick,
• clinker tiles,
• natural stone
• artificial stone,
• professional sheet

How to choose a lining for the base and what each of the materials is, now we will figure it out.

Naturally, such a ubiquitous material as plaster cannot but be used in the decoration of the basement sections of the facade. A plastered plinth will look beautiful and stylish if you choose the right type of material that successfully complements the style of the building, and, of course, apply it with high quality.

This material is strong enough to provide external protection for the building. But, of course, that with a stone or siding finish, he will not be able to compete in terms of durability. However, it is worth noting that under conditions of high atmospheric humidity, exposure to ultraviolet rays and chemical corrosion, plaster, as a finishing material, proved to be quite worthy. And as for the breadth of the range, plaster, perhaps, will be the first among all other finishes.

The variety of types, textures and shadessuitable for finishing the basement is simply amazing. In any hardware store on the shelves there are at least the most common:

• structural,

You can use classic textures, or you can bring a little bit of your imagination to the finish and get a unique, original design. As for the shades, in addition to the available dyes - there is also a huge selection of them, you can order a professional tinting in exactly the shade you dream of.

Recently, plastering the plinth "under the stone" is gaining popularity. This is natural - the craze for finishing with stone, natural or artificial, has led to all sorts of ways to reduce the cost and simplify finishing work.

It goes without saying that imitating stone with plaster is much more economical and faster than laying natural stone.

The most common types of plaster with a stone design are imitation marble, granite or sandstone. Latex-based plasters can additionally provide the effect of "antiquity" - a cracked stone. In the same way, you can make visual analogues of other materials - wood, timber, pebbles and many others.

The advantages of plaster as a finishing material for lining the plinth are obvious:

1. Ease of application. Even textured decorative plasters are quite capable of being applied on their own, without having special skills in construction work.
2. There is no need to use special construction tools or equipment. Plasters are sold both in dry form, where you just need to add water and stir the solution, and in the form of a ready-to-use mixture.
3. The widest range of colors, textures, application options- all types of plasters and designs that can be obtained with their help are even difficult to voice within the framework of one article.
4. Plaster is easy to adjust or fix. Perhaps this is one of the easiest materials to repair. And, you can do it, again, with your own hands.
5. Well, of course, the dignity is the price of this material.

In addition to the advantages, plaster has quite understandable shortcomings. Among them it is worth noting:

1. Not particularly high coating strength. Yes, this material is able to protect against external influences, however, it loses to a large extent to other possible finishes, which are much more reliable.
2. Not durable. No matter how competently the plaster is made, even if the application technology is strictly observed, the plastered surface will not last as long as marble, this should not be expected.

Plaster, despite its significant shortcomings, has been used for a long time to finish the basement of buildings, it looks beautiful and blends harmoniously with other finishing materials. And given its low cost, it can be updated as it wears out.

The mosaic plaster material itself is, roughly speaking, a mixture of crumbs and resin. Modern plasters are produced on acrylic resin, which has wonderful plastic and strength characteristics. This makes mosaic plaster not only beautiful, but also a durable material for finishing the basement of a house.

The crumb can be of various sizes. There are three types of fraction sizes: small, medium and large. Which one to choose is determined by the buyer at his own discretion and based on the overall design of the building.

Before finishing, the base is also prepared in a standard way: dust removal, primer. If there are no too noticeable irregularities, then there is no need to level them - this will be done by plaster.

Mosaic plaster is sold in a ready-to-use form. Usually it is packed in plastic buckets of various sizes. The mixture has the right consistency and shade. When buying material, always try to calculate the required amount as accurately as possible and provide for a small margin. Pay attention to the batch number and production date - different batches may have a different tone, which will be very noticeable on the finished plinth.

There is nothing difficult in applying plaster; even people who do not have finishing skills can cope with this matter. Plaster is usually applied with a metal trowel, while it is important to observe the thickness of the layer and apply the material in one direction - so that there are no noticeable strokes.

If you decide to entrust the finishing to professionals, then they will most likely prefer an automated method of application - spraying. Application in this way is much faster and easier, but, of course, not everyone has a sprayer.

Mosaic plaster can last for a long time without changing its appearance. This is a beautiful, durable and comfortable finish for the plinth. It does not require any maintenance, retains its appearance during the entire period of operation.

Without further exaggeration - the most common type of basement finish for residential buildings.

1. Firstly, a brick plinth is durable, beautiful and blends well with other materials.
2. Secondly, which is important for home craftsmen, it is quite possible to do it with your own hands.
3. Well, and thirdly, brick is probably one of the most unpretentious building materials to maintain, therefore, having completed a high-quality finish just once, you can confidently expect that it will last for many years.

In extreme cases, if some part of the masonry becomes unusable, it can be partially replaced and the general appearance will not suffer from this.

The brick base is frost-resistant and at the same time, it is not afraid of the scorching sun's rays. This is also a definite plus of the material and makes it available for any region of our country.

Also, due to the growing demand for environmentally friendly materials, it should be noted that the brick is just one of them - it is completely harmless to human health and the environment. Modern brick manufacturers can boast of decent equipment and quality materials. On the shelves of building hypermarkets you can find many varieties of bricks - for every taste and imagination of the buyer.

The last priority advantage of the brick finish of the basement can be called its low cost - compared to other materials, this one is perhaps the most budgetary, but at the same time its appearance does not lose to the rest.

Finishing the plinth with clinker tiles is visually no different from brick finishing. But, of course, much cheaper and easier to perform.

Before starting finishing work, the base of the plinth must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt; if this is not done, the adhesive mixture will be unevenly applied, which may lead to shedding of tiles. The base on which the clinker tiles will be laid must be even and strong - if there are cracks or damage on it, they must be repaired in advance, the same applies to irregularities - they must be leveled, otherwise, the tile simply cannot be laid in an even layer. Immediately before starting laying, it is advisable to prime the base well with a special solution - a primer. This will reduce the consumption of glue and improve its adhesive properties.

It is necessary to lay the tiles strictly according to the level, otherwise the rows may turn out to be uneven, visually this will be very noticeable and will require laborious alteration. They always start from the bottom row, and only after laying it around the entire perimeter of the building, they start the next one - and so on.

A steel trowel is perfect for gluing tiles. With its smooth side, we apply glue to the base, and then, we draw the side with teeth over the solution - this way, we get the desired thickness for gluing the tiles, and the relief surface will allow the tiles to be more firmly fixed on the wall.

The last step is grouting the joints between the tiles. The grout must be selected in accordance with the parameters of use, namely: resistant to moisture and temperature extremes. Such a tool will not be cheap, however, its effectiveness will pay off in the very first winter.

Clinker tiles are often used for plinth finishing precisely because of their great resemblance to brickwork. It can also be used both completely and partially - for finishing only the basement, corners of the building, or highlighting any elements of the structure.

Plinth cladding with natural stone

Of course: beautiful, expensive, natural. It is impossible to argue with the statement that the natural stone plinth looks very elegant and is able to complement or even decorate the overall appearance of the facade.

When planning a stone finish, be sure to pay attention to its quality - the durability and strength of the base will depend on this.

In this case, several types of stone can be used:

1. River stone. It not only has a beautiful appearance, but also shows itself perfectly when interacting with atmospheric phenomena. River, as well as marine natural stone contains a large amount of mineral salts in its composition, which makes it practically invulnerable to precipitation, snow or ice sticking.
2. Limestone. The stone is quite durable and at the same time, not particularly expensive.
3. Marble. Naturally, a very expensive pleasure, but given how durable and resistant to any kind of impact - both mechanical and atmospheric, the material, then its quality in the wave justifies its cost. Moreover, it will not take much to finish the basement.

Whatever type of stone you use, you can immediately highlight the advantages of such a finish:

1. Naturalness. Accordingly, it is a completely environmentally friendly material that is safe for health.
2. Durability. Stone finishes can retain their appearance for centuries. This is especially true for marble, river or sea stone.
3. Unique design- nature itself did its best by coloring the stones, their unique texture and coloring, of course, are able to decorate any building object. By finishing the basement with natural stone, you will provide the building with a spectacular appearance.

The advantages of natural stone are obvious even for an amateur in construction work, however, it also has disadvantages, which you also need to know about when planning the finishing of the basement.

1. Finishing the base with natural stone must be done after complete shrinkage of the house. Since, as already mentioned, stone is one of the most durable materials, it is not able to undergo almost any surface tension. From here, a simple conclusion is that it will be correct to finish the basement with natural stone only after the building has completely shrunk. Naturally, this is not possible for a new building - since shrinkage can occur for a long time - everything here will depend on the type of soil and the building itself. Otherwise, settling, the plinth, trimmed with natural stone, will acquire not beautiful cracks at all, and spontaneous falling off of the material is also possible.
2. The second important drawback also smoothly follows from the dignity of the stone - this is its weight.. Anyone understands that a natural stone plinth is not only beautiful and durable, but also very heavy. And not every facade can safely withstand such a weight. Professional construction companies, when planning the laying of a stone plinth, always calculate the strength characteristics of the building and its ability to withstand such loads.
3. The third disadvantage will simply be the cost of this natural material., especially with regard to marble, river or sea stone - these varieties, unfortunately, are expensive, and not every homeowner can afford.

Natural stone is not only a strong and durable finish, it is beautiful, elegant and expensive - both literally, financially, and figuratively - visually. Of course, it does not make sense to combine such material with frankly cheap wall decoration - the stone is quite demanding in terms of the overall concept of decoration.

Finishing the basement of the house with artificial stone

Naturally, given the high cost of natural stone, the construction market has found a way out for more economical buyers. In this case, it is an artificial stone. In its appearance, it is almost completely identical to natural stone - it can repeat the texture of the stone, even taking into account its variety - river, sea, marble, and so on.

Thanks to advances in the construction industry, progress, artificial stone made of concrete, with the help of special dyes, acquires a color similar to natural stone.

Artificial stone is sold in various sizes - you can choose large or small stones, depending on the design project of the building and your taste. You can choose stones of the correct shape or shapeless. In any case, when choosing an artificial stone, you need to pay attention to its quality - the material must be made carefully and be as similar as possible to a natural analogue.

An artificial stone is laid on a regular or special adhesive solution, having previously cleaned the base from dirt. The seams are filled with mortar and embroidered, like brickwork.

The main advantage of artificial stone is its much lower cost than natural stone. Outwardly, it looks spectacular, given the large assortment of colors, textures and shapes, but the price is at least three times lower.

However, this material also has a significant drawback - its low, compared to natural stone, durability. In order to somehow increase the resource of finishing with artificial stone and extend its presentation, after it is laid and fully fixed, the finished base is treated with special strengthening solutions - this measure allows you to extend the life of the finish by four to five years.

Currently, perhaps, one of the most common finishes - both the walls of the house and its basement. Such popularity is ensured by the availability of the material, its widest range - in building hypermarkets, siding panels are presented in large quantities, their color and texture can satisfy the most demanding customers.

Siding has long been widely used in European countries for building decoration, in recent years it has also flooded our market. The demand for this material in the coming decades is due to its clear advantages over others:

1. Siding is the easiest material to repair. That is, if it suddenly becomes necessary to replace some part of the site finished with siding, then it is not problematic to do this - the main thing is to have the same material - from the same batch as the one being replaced. The surest decision here is to simply buy it a little more, so that later there will be something to replace it with.
2. The material is very light weight. When planning its installation, it is not necessary to calculate the load on the foundation, since it is completely insignificant. Siding can be used to finish without thinking about the strength of the walls of the building as a whole.
3. For installation of siding, a simple design is required- it is easy to perform, and the most interesting thing is that, using such a frame, you can put insulation inside, significantly reducing the heat loss of the building. A device of this design allows the use of various types of heaters - from elementary to the most modern, and in such a way that it will not be visually noticeable in finished form.
4. Siding has excellent performance properties: it calmly withstands any atmospheric phenomena - precipitation, wind, frost and high temperature without changing its properties or appearance. Some sellers of building hypermarkets dissuade buyers from siding, arguing that, being in direct sunlight, colored types of this material can fade. Actually it is not. Only material of low quality or not intended for use in such conditions can fade in the sun.
5. A variety of textures and shades of siding. Of course, one cannot fail to note the variety of textures and shades of siding presented on the shelves of modern stores. Manufacturers produce siding that imitates stone, board, any natural materials, its shade can be very diverse. This is just the type of material that can be easily matched to absolutely any style of facade.
6. Simple care. Elementary simple care of the finished finish is also an important advantage. No special tools and measures are needed - the siding is easily cleaned of dust and dirt with ordinary water.
7. Ease of installation. Finally, for jacks of all trades, the most important advantage of this material will be the ease of installation. It is quite possible to lay siding on your own, having only a superficial knowledge of construction or finishing work.

With all its undeniable advantages, siding, like any other material, cannot but have drawbacks. They are:

1. Weak strength for mechanical damage. Unfortunately, such a convenient material in every sense can be easily damaged even without hitting it particularly hard. This is especially true in the case of finishing the basement - since it is precisely in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe most frequent mechanical damage.
2. When installing siding panels, it must be borne in mind that the seams between them are rubbed with a special compound. This will make them invisible.
3. By itself, siding is a thin and cold material. That is, if you do not plan to use it for it, think carefully about whether you will get a warm enough building after the repair.

Despite the shortcomings, siding today continues to be a popular finishing material. It is used in a variety of cases, including for finishing the basement - this option goes well with the siding of the entire facade, as well as with other types.

Convenient and practical material for finishing many construction projects, including the basement of the house. As you know, the plinth should be protected as reliably as possible from moisture, precipitation, sunlight and similar natural influences. - a metal curly sheet, with a thickness of 0.5 to 0.9 mm - great for mounting such protection.

The profiled sheet can be offered for sale in various widths, while the height is usually equal to two meters. For finishing the base, as a rule, an ordinary wall profiled sheet is used, it is designated by the PS-8, PS-10, S-8 and S-10 brands. It is also necessary to pay attention to the color options, this material is presented in about fifty shades.

But it should be borne in mind that different manufacturers color their products differently, therefore, you need to buy this material at a time, from one batch - otherwise, there may be problems with the finished finish.

The corrugated appearance of the profiled sheet can be played up as a design move by placing the sheet both vertically and horizontally, and even diagonally to the main facade of the building.

Since the profiled sheet is attached to a specially arranged frame made of a U-shaped profile, it is usually used in it to increase the thermal insulation characteristics of the building.

Among the clear advantages of a profiled sheet, the following should be noted:

1. Good strength characteristics. Metal sheet - reliable and dignified, you can not be afraid of atmospheric phenomena.
2. Quite an interesting look.- the main thing is to successfully select the remaining finishing materials, harmoniously combining the profiled sheet with the appearance of the entire building as a whole.
3. Resistant to corrosion- does not rust, as the profiled sheet is sold painted or galvanized.
4. Reasonably affordable price.

The disadvantages of a profiled sheet are:

1. Low heat resistance. The profiled sheet itself is cold and without a special insulation system, it is not advisable to use it.
2. Not suitable for every style of building. Professional sheet - one might say, a minimalist design that needs to be carefully combined with other materials.

Profiled sheet is a modern and original way of finishing a basement, there are not so many varieties of it, but still, from the range of colors produced, you can choose exactly what you need. As for durability and strength, here its properties are on top.

The finish for the plinth must first of all be durable, so it is worth choosing a material that will be reliable and durable, while taking into account the current climatic conditions of operation. Secondly, the basement finish decides a lot in the overall appearance of the building; an incorrectly chosen color or texture can visually ruin the rest of the facade.

Therefore, it is important to take into account the compatibility of the material for finishing the base with a common house. Both shades and relief are important here - they must be in harmony or be in contrast. A small but significant factor is also the style of the building. If this is a classic, then there is no need to finish the base with a colored profiled sheet, and if we are talking about asceticism, then natural granite will be inappropriate here. These are, of course, more subtle nuances, but it is also desirable to pay attention to them, showing a sense of taste and proportion properly.

Currently, the construction market is so diverse that there are plenty to choose from. A wide variety of materials are available, both in their appearance, and in characteristics, and in cost. The choice is yours!

The basement of a house made of brick or concrete needs reliable protection from destructive environmental factors. Far from always such protection is provided during the construction of the building, and often the owners are forced to mount it themselves. We will tell you how and how to veneer the basement of a brick house.

Why is it necessary

Brick house designs with a basement often involve using this floor as part of the living space of the house. This means that the basement will be connected to the heating system, therefore, in case of poor thermal insulation, energy losses are inevitable.

Moreover, the maximum losses will occur through the above-ground part of the walls of the basement gap. The floor in the basement is deep enough underground and does not freeze through in winter due to natural insulation with an infinitely thick layer of earth. The ceiling is also protected by a warm ground floor, and the heat does not escape through it.

Only the walls of the basement masonry remain, and here the purpose of their cladding becomes clear:

• The finishing coating allows you to protect the basement masonry material from moisture penetration. The plinth located at the very bottom of the structure is most susceptible to contact with water, which penetrates from the thickness of the concrete foundation, flows down the walls of the house during rain, contacts with the masonry in the form of snow drifts, falls in the form of splashes bouncing off the ground, etc .;
• Brick houses with a basement require high-quality insulation, and insulation, in turn, requires finishing and protection. Here we see the need for a strong and reliable lining that will hide the thermal insulation and protect it from wear and damage;
• The design of the basement is subject to heavy loads, as the whole house presses on it. In addition, if the basement is unheated, then its walls may freeze, and the accumulated moisture will expand and damage the structure of the material. Therefore, it is better to protect masonry from moisture and frost with the help of an appropriate finish;
• The proximity of the ground leads to the fact that various kinds of debris, dirty rain splashes, dust, etc. fall on the lower part of the wall. Porous brick or concrete absorbs all these substances and becomes dirty. The presence of a durable coating makes this problem insignificant, since the dense surface of the facing material is easy to clean.

It also often happens that projects of brick houses with a plinth contain such a scheme in which. The above-ground part of such a foundation does not fit well with the brickwork of the walls and needs to be lined with a suitable material.

Important! Finishing the plinth is needed not only as an element of decor, but, to a greater extent, as a functional protective structure that protects the masonry from premature wear and aging.

Finishes

The options for finishing the basement of a brick house are very diverse. The construction market is full of all kinds of materials and technologies that can be used for these purposes. In addition, natural raw materials are widely used, including various types of natural stone, sandstone, pebbles, etc.

Of the modern technologies, such varieties as a ventilated facade, siding, blockhouse, metal profile, stamped concrete, ceramic facade tiles, porcelain stoneware and others are most in demand.

As practice shows, laying natural materials such as marble, granite, pebbles or sandstone requires extraordinary abilities and a lot of experience, that is, you will have to hire expensive craftsmen. At the same time, the price of the stone itself is also very high, and as a result, facing work can be too expensive.

Based on these considerations, we have identified the most practical and affordable ways to finish the basement masonry:

• Ventilated facade. The coating of porcelain stoneware and other conditionally natural materials looks great;
• Siding. Easy and quick to install, relatively cheap and perfectly imitates all types of natural coatings;
• Metallic profile. The cheapest and simplest coating, while quite durable and reliable, although not entirely aesthetic.

Important! The use of modern facade systems allows not only to reduce the cost of work, but also to place a layer of thermal insulation under the coating, which is very important for the basement.

Cladding installation

Let's start installing the cladding. We will work with our own hands, as a material we use polymer sand plinth tiles, which are fastened using the ventilated facade technology ().

1. We put the walls of the basement in order, eliminate cracks and other flaws, remove all protruding objects;

1. We mount the frame guide profiles. We use a galvanized steel profile measuring 28x67 mm. It is important to maintain a strictly vertical arrangement of the surface of the frame structure, and place all its details in the same plane;

Installing the frame.

The decoration of the basement, on the one hand, is simpler than the facade: there are no special aesthetic and architectural subtleties here. The plinth can be in harmony or contrast with the overall design of the building in terms of tone, texture, and type of material used, see fig. Corrosive pedants should simply point to the Erechtheion, the Roman baths or any of the Gothic cathedrals - and let them say what they want.

Samples of finishing the basement of private houses

For small individual construction, the false plinth option is also of particular interest (photo below on the right in the figure): the tape protruding foundation is finished without any pretensions, if only for a long time, and the wall belt above it imitates a high plinth. This allows you to fully concentrate technically on the correct arrangement of a very critical place of the entire structure of the house - the junction of the wall with the plinth (foundation protrusion); in particular on the ebb device, see below, without compromising the appearance of the house.

On the other hand, the lining of the plinth is exposed to intense chemical (atmospheric moisture, dirt, organic matter from the soil), physical (temperature and humidity changes) and mechanical abrasive agents (wind-blown grains of sand). The concentration of dust, dirt and splashes of solutions of soil components in the air depend on the height above the ground according to a power law and within 50 cm from the ground fall relative to the zero height of the building by 10 or more times. Therefore, both the materials for finishing the basement and the methods of working with them require a more careful approach than for finishing the facade.

On the third, finishing the basement with stone or other durable, resistant and heavy material almost always does not cause any technical difficulties, because. the height of the plinth, as a rule, does not exceed 80 cm; in extreme cases - up to 2 m, for a house with a basement, and the base itself is made of durable materials, otherwise it simply will not carry weight, climatic and operational loads. So the material for lining the plinth can be chosen, limited only by financial considerations.

The basement of a residential building is lined in the order of the work of the final stage of construction - exterior decoration. In general, the finishing of the basement of the house is carried out in stages in the following order:

• A trench is digging under the blind area with a depth of approx. 30 cm (on the bayonet of a shovel) or 15-20 cm deeper under the blind area with insulation;
• A sand and gravel cushion is laid in the trench, optionally also a heater;
• A rough finish of the basement is carried out in order to level its surface;
• A blind area is being arranged;
• Decorative finishing of the plinth is made;
• Only after that, all other work on the exterior of the building begins, incl. facade cladding.

It is not recommended to break this sequence, especially for inexperienced amateur builders, but in some cases, discussed below, this is possible, for example. if the plinth of an existing building is revetted or repaired. In this case, the design of the plinth plays a decisive role for the complexity of the work and the possibility of using one or another finishing material.

Plinth and tide

Finishing the basement of a private house in relation to the choice of material and the method of its installation largely depends on the design of the basement itself and its ebb. The interface between the load-bearing wall and the plinth is the most likely place for moisture to penetrate into the gap between them, causing the walls to become damp. From below, waterproofing does not let it in, that's why they put it. But the water flowing into the walls is also capable of leaking under the wall along the same waterproofing, this is the so-called. capillary closure. To prevent it, a low tide is arranged above the base.

Design options for a plinth with a low tide

Possible options for the design of the plinth with a low tide are shown in fig. If the base is sinking (pos. 1) - you are in luck. A simple single tide is laid between the layers of insulation; if a teardrop groove (dropper) is also knocked out from below on the wall extension, pos. 1a, then capillary blocking of the walls is excluded. But then either the wall should be from 2.5 bricks, or the basement ceiling should be slab, pos. 1b. Budget developers avoid the last option - it's a little expensive - but in vain: then, during the operation of the house, the slab floor justifies itself with interest. Moreover, on, in fact, the second base of the house, you can build a box easier and cheaper. Also in this case, you can build from foam / gas blocks, then facing the house with bricks, which looks solid and inexpensive.

More often, however, there are houses on a protruding plinth, pos. 2. The technology for preventing capillary blockage in this case is known, this is a double ebb, pos. 2a. Its outer tray (addition) is placed at the end of the decorative finish of the basement and facade, so that it can be changed as it wears out. For reliability, silicone is applied to the surface of the rim (upper limb, fold) of the tray adjacent to the wall before installation.

Now on sale there are "eternal" ebbs made of propylene or stainless steel, their durability exceeds the estimated service life of residential buildings of conventional design. With an “eternal” ebb, the task of keeping the wall dry is simplified: the basement is completely finished, and the ebb is placed on the wall before facing it with a moisture-proof material, for example. waterproof plaster, clinker or thermal panels on glue. The rim of the ebb turns out to be walled up in the facade cladding, pos. 2b, and water will no longer flow under the wall.

Note: the same methods of installing a low tide are applicable for houses on a plinth flush with the wall, although in general a “smooth” plinth is bad in every way.

Sometimes, for decorative purposes, the ebb as such is abandoned, replacing it with a brick cornice. So it is possible, but the front brick on the eaves must be taken so-called. hyper-pressed (hyper-formed), grout the seams of the cornice-outflow flush, and use a waterproof and moisture-proof masonry mortar and grout with polymer additives. In amateur conditions, they can be prepared with your own hands by adding to the cement-sand mortar from M200 and grout for outdoor work, 1-3 cups per bucket of PVA or bustilate-type polymer tile adhesive. You can also use glue for porcelain stoneware or clinker (terracotta) tiles.

Hyperpressed brick is often falsified. You can recognize the real one by its homogeneous structure, the absence of visible inclusions and the even dark color of a matte or semi-matte surface, the so-called. bricks - "chocolates", pos. 3. On ordinary (quite suitable for their purpose) face bricks that form an ebb, after a winter or two, the core will appear and efflorescence will go, pos. 3a, which means - break the lining of the basement and redo the ebb, while the wall is locked.

Finally, wooden houses are built almost exclusively on protruding plinths: the minimum allowable width of the foundation tape here turns out to be greater than the thickness of the wall, and for a number of reasons it is impossible to put a log house or frame on a concrete slab. In this case, the ebb can only be double; its options for a log or timber and frame house are shown in pos. 4 and 5. In a log / log house, the fastening of the rim of the outer tray is sealed with silicone; this is not required in a frame house, because. wall cladding also serves as a teardrop.

Note: in all cases of using a double tide, the distance between the cornices of the inner and outer trays must be at least 10-12 mm anywhere.

Preparation for cladding

The most difficult and time-consuming part of the work on finishing the base is leveling its surface for cladding; the plinth can be made of rubble stone, concrete blocks (possibly old, crumbled along the edges) or the above-ground part of the concrete foundation. In this case, the easiest way to prepare it for cladding with your own hands is to plaster with cement-sand or cement-lime starting (rough) plaster for outdoor work. Self-kneading can be made hydrophobic as described above (PVA, bustilat, etc.).

Alignment of the surface of the plinth for facing with starting plaster along the reinforcing mesh.

For leveling with plaster, the plinth is treated with a deep-penetrating primer on the appropriate material (stone, brick, concrete), large protrusions are roughly knocked down, if necessary, patching is done with a cement-sand mortar and a steel reinforcing mesh with a thickness of approx. 4 mm, see fig. I use a plaster mortar thick, not flowing; the layer is given in 1.5-2 mesh thicknesses. They rub it to evenness with a semi-terre immediately, without waiting for setting. After setting, they check the evenness with a rail (the norm is 3 mm / m), grind and smear as necessary. It is advisable to first make a separate section of 1-1.5 square meters. m, after that, and the "teapot" with hands from where it is necessary, at least the start will be put quite evenly under the lining.

Materials and technologies

The materials for lining the plinth, as mentioned above, must be resistant to thermal, chemical, mechanical stress and abrasion. Modern materials for finishing the base, according to the price and complexity of the work, are generally divided into the following classes:

• Painted waterproof plaster is the easiest and cheapest option. Best suited for a low, up to 40 cm, plinth, the finish of which is still not really visible. Maintainability is limited, tk. it is difficult to match the paint for the patch exactly to the tone of the existing one.
• Artificial stone - in terms of complexity and cost, the lining of the base is comparable to plaster. Appearance at 3+ or 4–, but the stroke of the corners is greatly simplified, see below. Maintainability is complete.
• Natural (wild) stone and facing brick - lining the basement with them can be inexpensive and does not require much work, but if the basement and blind area are insulated, the complexity of the work increases many times, also see below. Maintainability is very limited: it is very difficult to remove the damaged fragment(s) without breaking the cladding over a sufficiently large area.
• Flexible stone - in terms of the combination of price / quality / appearance / technical capabilities, it has no equal. Finishing the plinth with a flexible stone is also possible in a budget version. Maintainability is complete.
• Basement siding - depending on the region, it can be cheaper than plaster, and in appearance it can surpass artificial stone (not natural!). Proper installation is not difficult, but requires certain knowledge and skills. Maintainability is complete, but the repair is quite laborious.
• Socle cladding panels (not facade!) - somewhat more expensive than basement siding with the same decorative qualities, but devoid of its weaknesses (see below). Maintainability is limited for the same reasons as wild stone and brick.
• Clinker (terracotta) and porcelain stoneware facing tiles are the most expensive and time-consuming, but the most resistant and durable option. If you need a plinth surface for a noble polished stone, then porcelain stoneware is practically the only option at a not terrifying price.

Plaster

It makes no sense to trim the basement with a beautiful, but not very resistant finishing decorative plaster in this place. It is best to simply paint the rough base for finishing with alkyd enamels for outdoor use. They will cost a little more, but yacht enamels will last much longer. The option is a little more expensive, but even more resistant and absolutely waterproof - the so-called. latex-acrylic paints or acrylic emulsions; upon drying, they give a layer similar to dense rubber, only colored.

The plastered plinth can be immediately trimmed to look like a stone using silicone stamps. A set of stamps costs about 500 rubles, but you can make them yourself. In general, the plastering of the basement under the stone is carried out as follows:

• Select samples (models) of natural stone of any breed of suitable size and more or less matching in contour, without overlap, up to 12-15 mm thick.
• For each model, a plywood or plank box is made - a flask - with sides 2-3 cm higher than the stone.
• Models are abundantly impregnated with mineral oil (you can use engine oil) and dried for 2-3 days.
• Next, the models are lubricated with petroleum jelly (lanolin), each is placed in its own flask and filled with silicone. The flasks from the inside before this also need to be smeared with petroleum jelly.
• After the silicone has solidified, the flasks are disassembled, the models are pulled out of the die blanks (do not be afraid to pull, the silicone is stretchable and strong) and the stamps are cut with a knife along the contour with an allowance for the width of the seam.
• On the base prepared as described above, a layer of thick mortar up to 16 mm thick is applied and stamped immediately, until setting.
• After the coating has completely hardened, it is painted.

Fake diamond

Finishing the basement of the house with artificial stone.

Facing the basement of a house with artificial stone, for all its mediocre merits, is good for budget developers in that you can make the forms for the corner elements (see Fig.) yourself. The corners are the weakest points of the cladding, it is here that the masonry joints begin to crack and the moisture under the cladding creeps exactly where it is not needed. They mount an artificial stone on a plinth or similarly to a natural one without insulation, or on tile glue like a tile (see both below),

Do-it-yourself methods for making artificial stone are described in other materials; any of its types suitable for paving paths will go to the basement. You can also make a home-made artificial stone for lining the basement from the same plaster mortar. The workflow differs from the production of stone stamps in that it is not necessary to select models so strictly in terms of thickness and that the casting mass is tinted in advance, which makes the color more stable; see video below. The technology for making artificial stone from plaster with your own hands is not strict, there are different options here.

Wild stone and brick

Natural stone for lining the plinth should be chosen heavy, with low moisture absorption, i.e. not subject to frost. Shales, sandstones, limestone, dolomite, travertine and tuffs are definitely not suitable. Best of all, granite, diorite, diabase, basalt, gabbro and other rocks that can withstand at least 1000 full freeze / thaw cycles. With the current climate change, this is not so much, in Central Russia in the off-season there can be either a day or a full cycle.

The technology of facing the basement with natural stone significantly depends on whether it is insulated or not. Without insulation, the matter is simpler, you only need to fulfill the following conditions (see the figure on the right):

Note: do not be afraid of moss and lichen on a stone plinth. They will not spoil the stone at all, they will only add glamor to the house. Mold and efflorescence (spots of salt on damp, and then dried out places) - that's what's bad. But on the stones of the above rocks, both do not happen.

Finishing the basement with facing bricks differs from facing with wild stone, firstly, in that the masonry joints make it normal for brickwork with a thickness of 10-13 mm. Secondly, the masonry mortar must be waterproof with a plasticizer (see above), because. moisture is very fond of lingering in the seams of brickwork and dirt accumulates. Thirdly, it is very, very desirable to use a hyper-pressed brick, as for a brick ebb, see above.

Facing the basement with natural stone and brick is seriously complicated if the walls, foundation and basement are insulated. Then not only the heavy cladding has nothing to hold on to, but there is also a danger of capillary moisture penetrating into the insulation. What complex of works is required to avoid both can be imagined by looking at the scheme of facing the insulated basement with stone in Fig.:

Scheme of facing stone plinth with insulation

And the matter will become even more complicated if the basement of an existing house is faced, because. retaining wall will shrink. In this case, it is better to line the plinth under the stone with siding, panels, and if you want the high cost to immediately catch your eye - with tiles. But first, let's finish with stone materials.

flexible stone

Flexible stone in some sources is served as a kind of "flexible tile on polymer resins." Apparently, those authors remember the old Soviet flexible facing tiles, which, as they say, have been looking for for a long time. There she is dear: the polymer tile shrank, tightened, cracked, and quickly wore out in heated rooms.

Flexible stone in finishing and cladding

The binder of the flexible stone is, indeed, synthetic resins, but not the mythical "polymer", but polyester and urea, but the essence of this material is in the textile base, sprinkled with stone chips. The advantages of flexible stone as an outdoor cladding material are truly magnificent (see fig.):

• Safe, environmentally friendly, chemically and mechanically resistant, chemically neutral.
• The estimated service life is over 150 years.
• Easily processed, can be cut with scissors.
• It shines through, you can hide illuminators behind the cladding or even make a street lamp out of flexible stone, which during the day, turned off, will be a sculpture to match the decoration of the house.
• Available in an innumerable variety of unique textures and colors that are completely natural, both solid and torn, with gaps for imitation of masonry joints.
• Curved surfaces and corners are easily circled with a flexible stone.
• There is no facade and basement, external and internal flexible stone, it is suitable for all types of finishing work. The same material can be used to finish the plinth, window and door trim, balcony, cornice, etc.
• Finishing the basement of a house with a flexible stone on a complex terrain (uneven slope, etc.) costs 7-20 times cheaper than any other material comparable in terms of decorative qualities and durability of the lining.
• Careful preparation of a surface under a flexible stone is not required. If the irregularities do not exceed 10-12 mm, the flexible stone is laid simply on tile adhesive (the minimum layer above the base projections is 2 mm). Otherwise, the potholes are roughly covered with a cement-sand mortar. Which in any case will not hurt for the sake of saving expensive glue.

There are only two shortcomings of a flexible stone: it is rough; glossy and semi-gloss (polished) does not happen. Then, the base for the flexible stone needs to be strong, so it is impossible to glue it directly onto the insulation or SMP (see below), first you need to prepare the plaster base, as described above.

Plinth siding panel

The basement of the house is lined with special basement siding, which is more wear-resistant and durable than the facade siding. Basement siding is available in PVC and propylene. The first is cheaper, brighter and can be glossy; the second is more resistant. Outwardly, basement siding differs from facade siding in that it is made not with boards, but with slabs with tongue-and-groove joints on latches, see fig. Therefore, filing the basement siding in size is possible only at the corners, and the seam must be covered with a regular additional element. Basement siding is mounted on a horizontal crate made of wood or steel profile on hardware (self-tapping screws).

Facing with siding is the least time-consuming way to finish a stone plinth at an acceptable cost; It doesn't matter if it's an old house or a new building. But the “law of free cheese” is also adamant here: the serious problems of facing the basement with siding are, firstly, damage to the crate, secondly, the accumulation of moisture in the cavities under the sheathing, and thirdly, the settlement of insects and rodents there. As a result, the skin is not so cheap and simple due to the difficulties with the blind area.

The general scheme for mounting basement siding is given in fig. below; drainage is highly desirable and in places fairly dry. Installation of basement siding is carried out after the complete arrangement of the blind area. At the bottom and top, deformation gaps of 10-15 mm are left, which are foamed, sealed with plastic glue recommended by the manufacturer (eg CM14) and covered with additional elements (plinth, cornice).

Basement siding installation scheme

However, each plinth siding manufacturer struggles with the problems of their product in their own way, which, by the way, indicates that there is no optimal solution yet. Therefore, if you opt for siding for the basement, then:

• Ask the supplier or look on the manufacturer's website for the specification of the material and make sure that it is suitable for your conditions (temperature range, annual rainfall, soil properties, plinth design and material, building structure).
• Use extensions, lathing material, fasteners and sealant of the recommended types.
• Follow the manufacturer's installation instructions exactly.
• In no case do not save on starting and finishing strips: moisture, dirt, mice and spiders with relatives are just waiting for this.

Panels and plates

Finishing the plinth with panels is somewhat more complicated and more expensive than siding, but it is devoid of its shortcomings, because. there is no crate with its pockets, the panels are put on glue. True, metal composite panels are mounted on a crate, but they are rarely used for finishing private houses because of their utilitarian appearance. Most often, the plinth is finished with facade thermal panels with clinker stone linings and polyurethane insulation, they are quite suitable for this purpose. The paneled plinth looks no worse than under the siding. Thermal panels are mounted on the base in the same way as on the facade; surface leveling is required to an unevenness of 3 mm / m. Warming is obtained automatically.

You can still find recommendations to finish the base with glass-magnesite slabs (SMP), but this option is far from the best: SMP is fragile, has little resistance to abrasion and soil chemistry. Outside, in resorts, the facades of houses for rent are sometimes finished in half-timbered style with high-quality SMPs (on the right in the figure), but such a cladding lasts 10-15 years, and during this time you have to do 2-3 of its cosmetic repairs.

Glass-magnesite panels (SMP)

In private construction, SMPs are sometimes used as a fixed formwork for an elevated strip foundation, which, in general, is good in every respect, except for the price. In this case, the SMP above the ground can be prepared for finishing, as described above, only the mesh fasteners must be taken longer so that the screws sit in the base. And then natural stone and brick as a plinth finish disappear: under the weight, the lining will peel off along with the plaster and mesh.

Tile

Facing the basement with tiles is a decision of the poor, left over from Soviet times. The porous material collects moisture, the glaze loses its appearance due to the appearance of microcracks and exposure to sand grains. The plinth is tiled with either clinker (terracotta) or porcelain tiles. Facing the basement of an existing house with tiles does not differ technologically from that in the process of construction, which is an undoubted advantage. Then the base is primed with a deep penetration primer. The tile is put on glue (layer - 2-3 mm) in sections under 1-1.5 m long. Immediately, while the glue has not set, the tiles are fixed with crosses or other separators (see the figure), otherwise the lining will slip. Separators are also placed below, a gap of 10-12 mm is needed there, which is subsequently sealed with the same glue. The next section is faced after the glue has hardened on the previous one.

Plinth tiling

Note: it is impossible to prepare the surface for tiles in the manner described above (mesh + plaster), the lining will peel off.

If you still want to finish your plinth with tiles (it looks rich, you won’t say anything), then it’s better to veneer it with porcelain stoneware. Firstly, the hardness of porcelain stoneware is comparable to the hardness of sapphire and corundum, it does not care about sand. Secondly, strong inorganic acids, except for hydrofluoric and fluorine-antimony acids, do not affect porcelain stoneware. Thirdly, porcelain stoneware is produced in slabs up to 30x60 cm, so the work will not be so boring. Fourthly, it is possible to split porcelain stoneware on a solid base and with a sufficiently elastic layer under the tile only with a shot from a rifled weapon; buckshot fired from a 12-gauge pump-action shotgun from a distance of 15 m flattens and rebounds. Fifthly, porcelain stoneware slabs are also available with a glossy surface, almost indistinguishable from polished stone. Sixth, due to the low thermal expansion coefficient (thermal expansion coefficient), porcelain stoneware on the plinth can be laid “without a seam”, i.e. with a seam 1-2 mm thick, which enhances the decorative effect.

More about stone

Let's see again what types of stone are suitable for lining the basement. Yes, this is ... a heavy boot! Fractionated broken stone is not cheap, but if you order a dump truck of solid rubble and sort it out yourself, then there will be enough pieces to build a stone plinth, and, smaller, to fill in the recesses between large fragments later. So, and building, as they say, tightly on a budget, consider also the option of a stone plinth. Facing/finishing as such disappears, and any house will look solid on 100% natural stone.

The plinth is the part of the foundation that rises above ground level. Therefore, the same requirements are imposed on its finish as on the entire base. It consists of a whole range of activities - the arrangement of the blind area, preliminary plastering (not always), waterproofing and a number of others. The nuances are determined by the characteristics of each structure and local conditions.

But when all the work is completed, the question arises - how to presentably finish the basement? It is desirable that it is beautiful, and not too expensive and complicated. There are more than enough materials for finishing the basement. But the price of some products is such that not everyone is able to "lay out" that kind of money. In addition, the installation of some products requires experience, special equipment, which is also associated with additional costs. And from this point of view, there are not so many options for inexpensive finishes.

Plaster

This design is suitable for buildings built from almost any material (cellular concrete, brick, and so on), with the exception of wood, since it is unlikely that the plastered foundation will be in harmony with it.

pros

• Good vapor permeability.
• Liquid resistance. The degree of moisture permeability depends on the type and amount of special additives introduced into the plaster mortar.
• Withstands temperature extremes, its high values.
• Ease of operations.
• Good maintainability.
• The ability to imitate various facing materials (for example, natural stone and a number of others). It all depends on the imagination and professionalism of the master.
• If desired, at a relatively low cost, you can regularly change the color design of the base.
• Minimum material costs.

Minuses

• Insufficient strength and, as a result, a short operational period.
• The need for frequent renewal of the paintwork (in the case of surface application of the composition).
• The complexity of care. It is quite problematic to wash pieces of dirt that has got in - basically, only “dry” cleaning. In terms of maintenance, decorative plaster mixtures are preferable, but they are quite expensive.

Finishing Features

1. It is previously recommended to mount on the plinth, for example, expanded polystyrene (extruded) slabs. This at the same time the base will insulate and level the surface.
2. A mesh (plaster) is attached to the base thus obtained.
3. Coloring. Naturally, the composition used must meet all the necessary requirements (for example, moisture and frost resistance - read about the choice of paint here).
4. On the issue of painting plaster, there are conflicting recommendations. Someone advises introducing the coloring composition directly into the solution. The argument is that even with the slightest damage, the uniformity of the base will not be disturbed.

There is another opinion - to paint "on top", since such a treatment will clog all pores and prevent moisture from penetrating. But the question arises - what about vapor permeability? If there is a basement, and even intensively used, the question is important.

Siding panels

Naturally, this does not mean all that are commercially available, but only those that are designed specifically for the base. By the way, they can also decorate walls.

pros

• Durability and reliability of facing. It protects the base well.
• Care is not difficult - the panels are easy to clean.
• The ability to quickly replace a damaged product.

Minuses

• The process is more time-consuming (read the article about siding installation).
• Such a finish is more expensive, since the cost of frame elements (rails, fasteners) is added to the price of the panels.

Finishing Features

1. The crate is pre-installed. Since the plinth is finished outside the building, it is advisable to use a metal profile as rails, and not wood - it is subject to decay.
2. It is necessary to ensure the sealing of all joints, as well as correctly calculate and maintain the necessary gaps (in case of thermal deformation of products).

Stone (artificial)

In principle, the method is also relatively inexpensive and effective if the type of product is chosen correctly (temperature of use, strength, and so on).

pros

• Artificial stone is easy to make at home - we wrote about it here. This will slightly increase the time for the production of work, but significantly reduce their total cost.
• Variety of cladding options (appearance).
• Durability, long service life.
• Good maintainability.
• Light weight and easy to mount. Artificial stone can simply be glued to the base.

Minuses

• Work is carried out only at "plus" temperatures. This is determined by the properties of the recommended adhesives. It should be noted that you can work with some even with a “minus” on the street. But here a certain difficulty arises - how to correctly calculate the size of the gaps between the products? Therefore, "winter" work requires a certain amount of experience.
• The process is quite painstaking and lengthy, it requires increased attention and accuracy.

Finishing Features

Much depends on the material on which the imitation of natural stone is made. Practice shows that not everyone will be able to independently perform such work - finishing. Most likely, you will have to pay for someone's services.

It makes no sense to compare materials at prices. They depend on so many factors that it is simply impossible to take into account everything. We must not forget a simple truth - it is not always possible to put an equal sign between the concepts of "cheap" and "quality".

Conclusion

Plastering the plinth is the most economical option that does not require the involvement of professionals. But if financial possibilities allow, then it is better to stop at the 2nd or 3rd options.

• If the house is built on a pile foundation, then a supporting frame is pre-mounted, which is sheathed with any material. The main requirement for it is moisture resistance.
• When calculating the cost of work, it is necessary to look not only at the price of the material, but also take into account what the costs of its installation will cost. In addition, an important factor is the service life. It is wiser to buy a product for decoration that is more expensive and durable than to regularly repair the lining of the basement and at the same time spend money again.

Being engaged in facing the facades of a country house, it is worth thinking about the above-ground part of the foundation, which initially looks like a simple concrete wall. The gap under the building erected on newfangled screw piles looks just as ugly. Hence the task of our article is to consider what materials are used to finish the basement of a private house and how it is better to sheathe it in certain conditions.

The role of the basement lining of a private house

We have already mentioned improving the external design with the help of an external finishing layer. But in addition to decorative, it also performs other important functions:

• extending the life of the concrete base by protecting it from moisture, direct sunlight and sudden changes in temperature;
• the skin takes on pollution and a variety of mechanical damage;
• protects reinforced concrete from damage by microorganisms - fungi and mold;
• in the case of a pile foundation, it closes the gap between the house and the ground so that the wind does not walk along it.

Before finishing the basement from the outside, it must be insulated, these are the requirements of building codes. Thermal insulation is carried out with polymeric water-repellent materials - polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam spraying. After that, the insulation layer is decorated on the outside with a facing material.

Note. There are special thermal panels for finishing the basement, which have a heat-insulating layer, which will be discussed later.

1. The entire foundation is subject to insulation - both above-ground and underground parts to the depth of soil freezing.
2. If the construction of the house is completed, then you need to make the thermal insulation of the basement with a blind area, this is a cheaper option.
3. It makes no sense to insulate only the basement, since the cold will penetrate the building through the ground.
4. External insulation can be omitted if the floors in the entire cottage are well insulated, although additional protection will be useful.

Finishing materials

There are quite a few options for how to finish the basement of a private house:

• smooth or embossed plaster;
• natural or artificial stone, tiles;
• clinker and other decorative bricks;
• plastic or metal siding;
• a variety of panels with and without a heat-insulating layer.

Now let's look at each option in more detail.

Application of plaster

This is one of the inexpensive ways to finish the foundation, which is used in houses without special requirements for external design. In addition to low cost, plastering provides such advantages:

1. The mortar layer is characterized by good vapor permeability, and therefore it is successfully applied both to the concrete surface and to the polymer insulation.
2. The ease of doing plaster work allows you to save more money if you do everything yourself.
3. Such cladding can be quickly and inexpensively decorated with any color and given a different texture - from a small “fur coat” to imitation of a wild stone, as shown in the photo.
4. Modern plasters are easily tinted in the required color, which saves you from painting work once every 3-5 years.

Reference. The technology of applying plaster is quite simple. For example, a "fur coat" from a liquid solution is thrown in a thin layer on a moistened base, and the bark beetle is superimposed and leveled with a rule. Imitation of natural stone is done by hand with a mixture of thick consistency.

The negative side of plaster coatings is a limited service life. From the effects of weather conditions and temperature differences, it gradually crumbles, cracks and even breaks off. High-quality plastering will last without problems for about 5 years, and after that it needs periodic repairs. Moment two: for obvious reasons, this method is not applicable to buildings on pile foundations.

Stone cladding - pros and cons

To improve the basement of the house, the following types of natural stone are used:

• shell rock;
• limestone;
• sandstone;
• gray and black granite, marble;
• labradorite

This is what granite veneer looks like.

Flagstone with polished or chipped edges, cut from rocks, is able to serve throughout the entire life of the building. This finish does not lose its excellent appearance for many years, and also does not require maintenance and repair. These are positive aspects, but there are also negative ones:

1. The high cost of processed natural stone.
2. Facing the base with your own hands will not work, you will have to involve specialists, and these are additional costs.
3. Due to the decent weight, the material noticeably loads the foundation.

Imitation sandstone

You can give the cottage an elite appearance at a lower price if you finish the basement walls with artificial stone products - fiber cement or porcelain stoneware tiles. They are produced on the basis of cement mixtures with various additives by casting in silicone molds and successfully imitate any rocks. Artificial stone is not inferior to natural stone in terms of durability, and it weighs less. But for laying tiles on the mortar, experience and qualifications are still required, plus labor costs for leveling the surface. All the nuances are described in the video:

Reference. Some manufacturers (for example, the Canyon brand) offer products with metal brackets, fixed on self-tapping screws to a wooden frame or directly to the wall. So, if you wish, you can mount the plinth trim yourself.

About brickwork

The benefits of traditional brick cladding are well known to homeowners who have used this method. In terms of durability and respectable appearance, masonry is practically not inferior to stone walls, but has the following features:

1. To overlay the base with a full-sized brick, you need to arrange a reliable foundation for it. This will not be a problem if such a finish was foreseen in advance and the width of the foundation tape allows you to build a half-brick wall on it. Another option is the device of a full-fledged blind area associated with the base of the house with reinforcement.
2. The brick lining of the basement makes it possible to organize an air gap or lay a heater in the wall.
3. If you do not use cheap silicate varieties, then the masonry itself will serve as good insulation.
4. To build a facing wall from decorative stamps laid out “into the wasteland”, you will have to attract a master bricklayer or train yourself for a long time.

Note. To reduce the cost of finishing the basement, clinker tiles can be used instead of bricks. The technology of laying on the adhesive mixture is similar to porcelain stoneware sheathing.

At the cost of construction, this method outperforms stone cladding, but it will cost more than installing artificial tiles. In addition, for the protruding front wall, you will need a wide ebb around the perimeter of the building.

siding sheathing

Metal and plastic plinth sidings can please every homeowner both in terms of price and variety of colors and textures. They are offered as strips and panels of various shapes, mounted on a frame made of wood or steel profiles. In addition to an affordable price, the material has the following advantages:

1. Quick and easy installation, thanks to which the owner is able to sheathe the base with siding himself.
2. Remarkable appearance of a private house.
3. Since the cladding is mounted on a subsystem, a heater of the required thickness is calmly laid under it.
4. In case of mechanical damage, damaged elements are easy to replace.

Reference. Sometimes a budget material is used as a siding - a wall profiled sheet. It is equally well suited for decorating small country houses, building fences and light gates.

Inexpensive types of cladding are not ideal. But siding has not so many disadvantages:

• vinyl sheathing is prone to burning, and the highest quality - melting from heating;
• polymer painting of metal panels and corrugated board quickly fades in the sun;
• after 5-10 years (depending on the quality of the products), the appearance of the material deteriorates;
• siding must be periodically washed from dust and dirt;
• accidental mechanical damage leaves scratches on painted metal, and plastic can break from shock loading.

Despite these disadvantages, wall and basement siding does not lose popularity. In addition, it is excellent for sewing up the cavities of pile-screw foundations. How to properly install, read on our other page, and the following video will introduce you to the sheathing process:

Advantages of finishing panels

Since the characteristics and installation method of plastic panels differ little from vinyl siding, we suggest paying attention to other types of products:

• two-layer thermal panels, where polystyrene insulation is glued to an artificial stone base;
• fiber cement products similar to Japanese cladding from the Kmew brand.

The presented finishing materials for the plinth combine the positive aspects of stone and PVC panels, plus they have an acceptable cost. This is a long service life, a wonderful appearance and simplified installation using self-tapping screws on the frame or without it.

Thermal panels imitating stone and brickwork are equipped with a heat-insulating layer made of polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Fastening is carried out through special hidden holes, and almost seamless docking is ensured by a perfect locking system. In the same way, fiber cement panels that do not have insulation are installed. For more information on installation, see the video:

Note. Both types of cladding can be used in houses installed on a pile foundation.

From the above, the following conclusions can be drawn:

1. In most cases, the choice of material depends on the size of the budget allocated for construction. An exception is pile foundations, where it is impossible to use the entire range of facing products.
2. Even with the availability of funds, it is not advisable to finish the basement with marble, granite and other varieties of expensive flagstone. There are substitutes - panels and clinker tiles that are not inferior in appearance and service life, which are cheaper and do not load the foundation.
3. The use of decorative bricks is justified when the width of the foundation tape is designed for masonry. In other cases, it is easier and cheaper to sheathe the basement wall with any imitation of brick.

Of the cheap options for the plinth, panels and siding made from non-combustible materials are most suitable. The experience of modern construction shows that the burnout of the facades of buildings occurs due to an incorrectly selected finish of the basement, which ignites from a cigarette butt thrown nearby.

• Text updated: 02/08/2017