Drywall is a finishing material consisting of two layers of thick cardboard and a core filled with gypsum mixed with other fillers. The combination of lightness and resistance to external influences makes the material suitable for finishing ceilings. A classic single-level plasterboard ceiling is relatively easy to make, requiring at least two people and minimal knowledge of construction technologies.

Advantages and disadvantages

Versatility: with the base obtained from this material, it is possible to carry out finishing work in different directions.
Decent heat and sound insulation, the ability to improve these characteristics with additional extensions.
Ease of embedding lighting fixtures.
Wires and other lines of communications and infrastructure are easily hidden under such a ceiling.

It is worth considering some of the difficulties that will haunt a person working with such material.

There is a need for high-quality processing of seams.
It is difficult to carry out some of the work alone without experience, the help of another person is useful.
Even small errors in calculations can lead to cracks and deformation of the structure.
The ceiling loses some of its height.

Necessary materials

Drywall (gypsum plasterboard) and metal profiles are the main materials that are used when finishing the ceiling in the manner described in the article. They have a number of varieties, their choice depends on the specific needs of the owner of the house and the characteristics of the room.

Table number 1. Varieties of drywall used in the decoration of residential premises.

View	Usage	Surface color
	Creation of ceilings in living rooms, corridors, other places that do not experience specific effects.	Grey
	Kitchens and bathrooms. Although originally intended to be protected from moisture, this drywall requires an additional waterproof finish.	Green
	The surface layers are made from cellulose waste paper. Used where extra strength is required.	Varies

The width of drywall is standardized and is 120 cm. The length varies between 200-300 cm, that is, there is a material on the market with three different length characteristics. The thickness varies between 6.5 mm and 12.5 mm.

Drywall also differs in the type of edge. It can be straight, refined, rounded, semicircular.

Drywall prices

drywall

The ceiling frame is made up of two types of metal profiles and additional fasteners.

Table number 2. Materials for the installation of plasterboard ceilings.

Material	purpose
	Creating a frame around the perimeter of the ceiling
	Arrangement of the frame along and across the length of the ceiling along its area
	Fastens the main profiles to the ceiling
	Fastens longitudinal and transverse profiles

To perform the work, the following auxiliary materials and tools will be useful:

Calculations and markup

First, the lowest corner of the draft ceiling in the room is searched. From this angle, the distance is marked at which the ceiling from the plasterboard will be located. The minimum distance between the draft and plasterboard ceilings is 5 cm, but if additional communications, ventilation, heavy lighting fixtures are located in the interceiling space, then the distance can increase to 10-30 cm.

Laser level prices

laser level

From the point marked in the corner, using a level, a line of the same height is drawn along the perimeter of the room. For small rooms, a water or bubble level is suitable, but in spacious rooms their use can lead to errors, so it is better to use a laser level. The marking of the line is carried out using a masking cord: it is stretched between two points at the corners of the wall and released, and a bright straight line remains on the surface.

Further, on the draft ceiling, the place of attachment of the longitudinal profiles is marked. The distance between them should be a multiple of the GCR width. Since its width is standardized and is 120 cm, the best option would be to fasten profiles every 40 cm: two profiles along the edges of the drywall sheet and one in its center. On the lines drawn along the length of the ceiling, the attachment points of the suspensions are marked with an interval of 40-50 centimeters.

Drywall is also marked out in accordance with the accepted plan for its installation: whether it will be cut or not, it will be laid longitudinally or transversely, etc.

Wireframe creation

Holes are drilled on the line drawn along the perimeter with a step of no more than 40 cm. A UD profile is brought to the wall and attached to it with dowels-nails.

Then hangers are installed. They fix only the main longitudinal ceiling profiles, and are not needed for transverse elements. Each suspension is fastened to the ceiling with the help of two dowel-nails (if, when drilling the suspension, a void is found in the slab, then a wedge anchor is used for reliable fixation, which is driven in with a hammer).

Important! Dowels for fastening suspensions should have as large a spacer as possible, otherwise they will not be securely fixed in the ceiling concrete and will fall into its empty spaces.

Before installing ceiling CD-profiles, it is necessary to determine a flat horizontal plane over the entire area of \u200b\u200bwork. This is done using stretched nylon threads. In order for the thread to stretch securely and not bend, you can pick it up with hanger fasteners, which for this bend upwards and thereby maintain its (thread) tension.

The longitudinal CD profile is first fastened between opposite UD structures (inserted into their grooves). Then it is successively fixed in suspensions. The "whiskers" of the suspensions are lowered, wrap around the profile and are screwed with small self-tapping screws.

The transverse profiles are located at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. They are fastened with their ends to the UD-structure, and along their length they are fixed with longitudinal profiles using single-level connectors. The connectors are inserted into each joint of the longitudinal and transverse profiles, wrap around the joints and are screwed on from all sides using self-tapping screws.

Installation of transverse profiles may not be required in cases where the ceiling is equipped in a very small room - for example, in a combined bathroom or a small corridor.

On a note! CD-profiles and drywall should not be included in the UD-profiles end-to-end. It is necessary to leave a small gap between the structures to ensure air exchange between the main space of the room and the ceiling. Also, these gaps will compensate for the temperature deformation of the metal and drywall sheets.

The resulting frame must be pulled down on each side. This will stretch all the hangers to their full length and will allow you to find irregularities in the plane of the frame.

Working with drywall

Before installing drywall, the space above the ceiling is finalized. All wires are placed in corrugated tubes, the contours of the installation of lighting devices are outlined and holes for them are cut out in drywall, ventilation is carried out and insulation is laid. The algorithm of actions is given below and recommendations are given for installing the GKL.

Table number 3. Installation of drywall sheets step by step.

Steps, illustrations	Description of actions
	Sheets are cut for ease of attachment. It is important to cut them so that the dimensions of the resulting blocks correspond to the size of the frame cells. All edges are processed and aligned.
	It is good if the sheet is supported by an assistant during its attachment to the frame. But if the work has to be done alone, then you can use a spacer that is installed between the floor and the sheet - it will press the drywall block to the ceiling.
	Before starting work, the profiles are sealed with tape, which gives additional cushioning and sound insulation.
	GKL blocks are attached with self-tapping screws with their edges to the frame. The distance from the edge to the GKL fastener should be 2 cm. The interval between the self-tapping screws is 10-15 cm. Their caps go deep into the material by several millimeters.
	There are two ways of laying drywall: transverse and longitudinal. The longitudinal method involves the coincidence of the long side of the sheet with the longitudinal profile; when laid transversely, they are perpendicular to each other.
	First, sheets are attached to the corners of the wall, then along the perimeter, and at the end, sheets are attached to the center of the ceiling.
	Screws must enter the metal profile to a depth of at least one centimeter. If drywall of large thickness is used, then this requirement should be taken into account and self-tapping screws of the appropriate length should be selected.
	If the size of the drywall sheet exceeds the size of the frame cell, then fastening is necessary not only at the edges, but also at the place where hidden frame profiles pass under it. For this, the GKL sheet is pre-marked.
	The interval between sheets is 1-2 mm.
	The joints of drywall sections should pass along the profile and only along it.
	If the screw is unsuccessfully fastened, it is removed, and a new one is screwed in at a distance of at least 5 cm. This is due to the fact that the place of unsuccessful fastening becomes unstable

Finishing work

After covering the entire frame with drywall, the structure stands for a two-day period. This is necessary for the material to acquire humidity and room temperature. After this period, finishing work can be carried out.

It is necessary to apply a primer to the sheets, which will give them additional protection from moisture. It is important to ensure that the primer penetrates into all joints, as they will be the most vulnerable places during the operation of the ceiling.

With the help of a spatula, the seams between the sheets are puttied, for which a quick-drying gypsum mixture (Knauf Fugenfüller or its analogues) is often used. Without fail, a reinforcing mesh must be glued to all joints. If there are two factory edges at the junction, then a reinforcing mesh 80-100 mm wide is used. If one or both edges of the drywall are chamfered at an angle of 45 degrees, then the mesh is cut along so that it does not go beyond the plane, or a standard width mesh is used, but then you will have to putty the entire surface of the drywall 1-2 mm thicker.

Prices for gypsum mixes

gypsum mixes

Note! The mesh must always be between the layers of putty. Most often, such nets in rolls have an adhesive base: it is needed for ease of storage and use. You can not stick the mesh on the joints, and putty on top. First, 60% of the putty filling is applied, then the mesh is sunk into the mixture, smoothed out, and the rest of the recess is filled.

Screw holes. The same "Fugenfüller" closes up the recesses from the screws. A narrow spatula (no more than 60-80 mm) is carried out in several directions so that the putty fills the entire recess. When the Fugenfüller dries, it will retract - this is normal. Recesses can already be repaired with ordinary finishing putty (Knauf Satengips, Knauf Finish, etc.).

After drying, a finishing putty is applied. Here you can use a larger tool and putty, which has a longer drying time and increases the strength of the joint. The heads of the self-tapping screws are also filled with putty mortar.

At the end, with the help of sandpaper, all irregularities are rubbed.

If the design layout requires it, after puttying and leveling the surface, you can start painting, whitewashing or applying wallpaper to the ceiling. If you plan to install a multi-level ceiling, then you can proceed to the arrangement of its subsequent levels.

Video - How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands

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Self-installation of drywall on the ceiling - 7 stages of manufacturing a ceiling covering

Among the existing options for arranging a fine ceiling covering, one of the most popular methods is the sewing of the main ceiling with plasterboard sheets. At first glance, installing a plasterboard ceiling may seem difficult to do on your own. From my own observations, I can say that with a competent approach, two people can cope with such a task, even without practical skills and experience working with this material.

The use of drywall for finishing the ceiling

Gypsum plasterboard (GKL) is a rigid sheet finishing material that is intended for the manufacture of interior partitions, as well as for the draft surface of ceilings, walls, window and door openings, and other elements of building structures inside the building.

In other words, it is also called "drywall" or "dry plaster". Each sheet of this material consists of two outer layers of thin but dense cardboard, between which there is a homogeneous solid layer of hardened gypsum mortar.

In order not to go into technical details, I will talk about the main features of the use of sheet drywall for finishing ceilings:

Drywall sheets have a smooth, uniform matte surface, which in itself is an ideal basis for applying finishing finishing materials (facing tiles, interior paint, wallpaper, etc.);

Compared to other building materials (brick, monolithic concrete, aerated concrete), the price of drywall is significantly lower, besides, it has a much lower specific gravity, therefore it is considered the most suitable material for interior construction;
The gypsum mineral base does not burn on its own and does not support combustion, and all components for the production of drywall are made from non-toxic environmentally friendly raw materials, so it is safe to use for interior decoration of residential and sleeping quarters;
Due to the composite structure of the sheet, drywall has sufficient rigidity, and at the same time some flexibility and elasticity. These qualities make it possible to use it both for leveling rectilinear surfaces with a large area, and for sewing up complex interior details with a curvilinear configuration (decorative bay windows, cornices, backlighting of the ceiling, etc.);

Drywall sheets can be hemmed at a considerable distance from the main ceiling. This makes it possible to carry out hidden laying of electrical cables, ventilation pipes and other communications in free space behind a decorative suspended ceiling;
The filing of ceiling sheets is necessarily carried out on a supporting metal frame, which in itself has a certain thickness. After installing drywall, the final ceiling in the room becomes at least 50 mm lower, so this method is not suitable for finishing rooms with an initially low level of the main ceiling (less than 2500 mm).
The mineral gypsum base and the outer layer of cardboard strongly absorb moisture, and when soaked, lose their strength and eventually collapse. For this reason, I do not recommend using this material for finishing damp rooms with constant high humidity (bath, bathroom or shower room).

Cardboard for the outer layers of GKL is made from natural cellulose raw materials, therefore, in conditions of low temperature, high humidity, and insufficient fresh air, an ideal nutrient medium is created on its surface for the development and growth of mold fungus. To prevent the appearance of mold, it is necessary to ensure optimal temperature operating conditions and high-quality ventilation of the interceiling space.

Stage 1: calculation of the amount of materials

As for the purchase of materials, there should not be any problems with this at all, since all components for installing drywall can now be purchased at any building hypermarket.

Drywall sheets can be 9.5 mm or 12.5 mm thick. Sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm are lighter, so it is more preferable to use them for finishing ceilings The required number of sheets is determined based on the total area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling, plus a 5% margin;
Galvanized metal profile of the brand "UD" with a section of 28x27 mm is designed for fastening plasterboard sheets to the wall along the perimeter of the room. Accordingly, its total length should be equal to the length of the perimeter of the room plus 5%;

The metal galvanized profile of the brand "CD" with a section of 60x27 mm is often called a ceiling one, because it is designed for attaching drywall sheets to the ceiling. Its total length should be calculated based on the fact that the ceiling guide profiles should be evenly spaced over the entire ceiling area, with a step of 600 mm between them. To trim this profile, you also need to add 5% of the length;
In cases where it is required to leave some space between the main and suspended ceilings, special fasteners are used for mounting the ceiling profile, which can be of two types:

Direct U-shaped remote suspension used if the distance between the main and false ceiling is no more than 120 mm;
Spring wire hangers allow you to lower the suspended ceiling relative to the main one at a distance of 120 to 1000 mm.

The number of remote hangers must be selected in such a way that they can be installed over the entire ceiling area, with a step of no more than 1000 mm between them in the longitudinal and transverse directions;
To splice the guide profiles together along the length, you will need metal connectors, and to connect two perpendicular profiles in the same plane, special crabs are needed. The number of crabs is calculated by the formula: total length of the ceiling profile / 0.6;

Fastening the metal frame to the concrete ceiling should be done using galvanized self-tapping screws and plastic dowels 6x60 mm. For fastening sheets to a metal frame, phosphated self-tapping screws 3.5x25 mm should be used;
To putty the joints between the sheets and seal the attachment points, you will need a reinforcing fiberglass-serpyanka and finishing acrylic putty for drywall.

For the manufacture of suspended ceilings in the kitchen or bathroom, I recommend using moisture-resistant drywall sheets. They have the nomenclature designation GKLV, and are distinguished by the green color of the outer layer of cardboard and the blue color of the letter factory marking.

Stage 2: choice of tools

To install drywall on the ceiling, no special equipment is required, so when performing finishing work, you can get by with the usual set of household tools:

To attach the supporting frame profiles to the main concrete ceiling, you will need an electric hammer drill with a set of drills, or, in extreme cases, a powerful impact drill;
In the process of work, you will need to tighten a large number of self-tapping screws, so I recommend using a cordless screwdriver for this purpose;

To cut metal profiles to the desired size, you can use a grinder with a cutting disc for metal, a hand saw for metal, or scissors for metal;
It is convenient to cut sheets of drywall in a straight line with a sharp construction knife with replaceable blades;
If you need to make a curly cut along a radius or curved line, you can use an electric jigsaw with a saw blade for wood or metal;

From hand tools you will need a square, tape measure, building level, hydraulic or laser level, plumb line, chopping cord, medium hammer and planer to trim the cut edge of the sheets;
For the final finish, you will need two metal spatulas with a blade width of 40-60 mm and 80-120 mm, as well as a set of emery cloth with a grain size of P80 to P150.

Installation work on finishing the ceiling with drywall can be done from two ladders, but it is more convenient to use an old unnecessary table for this. If there is no such table in the household, it is possible to build two small platforms from boards or bars of such a height that the half-bent arm of a standing person freely reaches the ceiling.

Stage 3: preparatory work and marking

Before performing installation work, you need to completely empty the room, remove all furniture from the room, and dismantle the old ceiling covering (foam tiles, stretch ceilings, etc.). If wallpaper is glued on the main ceiling, which hold normally and do not fall off themselves, then it is not necessary to dismantle them.

Before starting work, it is necessary to lay and install utilities (electric cables, ventilation pipes, cassette air conditioning, etc.), which must be hidden behind a suspended ceiling.

In order to mount drywall sheets on the ceiling strictly horizontally, appropriate markings must be applied around the perimeter of the walls;

The capital ceiling in residential buildings is far from always smooth, therefore when marking walls, I do not advise starting from the main ceiling;
For drawing horizontal lines, it is most convenient to use a laser level. It must be fixed at a given height, and along the line of the laser beam, apply horizontal markings to each wall;
The laser level is quite expensive, so if you don’t have one, then for these purposes you can use the hydraulic level, which works on the principle of communicating vessels;
In an arbitrary place on any wall, a horizontal mark must be placed 10 mm above the level at which the final ceiling should be mounted;

After that, one person must attach one of the transparent tubes of the hydraulic level to this place, and combine the liquid level in the tube with the mark on the wall;
The second person must, rearranging the stepladder, put horizontal marks opposite the liquid level in the second tube, on each wall in two places, in each of the corners of the room;
After that, all the marks on the walls must be connected to each other by a straight horizontal line, which will serve as the lower boundary for installing the wall guide profile for drywall. It is more convenient to draw a long horizontal line not under a ruler, but to beat it off with chalk using a stretched construction cord;
To make it more convenient to mount the ceiling profile, in addition to marking the walls, I also recommend applying control marking lines to the ceiling;

To do this, on the ceiling, parallel to the long walls, you need to draw a center line, which should divide the room into two equal parts;
From the center line, in each direction to the side long walls, set aside an equal number of segments 600 mm long, and connect them with parallel lines. The last segments, which will be closer to the wall, can be of any arbitrary length, but not more than 600 mm;
The same must be done between short walls: draw a short center line, put marks on each side with an interval of 600 mm, and connect them with straight lines. In the end, you should get a checkered ceiling, with a side length of each square along the axes of 600 mm.

It is easy to make a hydraulic level with your own hands from two transparent tubes 200-300 mm long, 8-12 mm in diameter, and a piece of flexible rubber or silicone hose of the same diameter, 5-8 meters long. Approximately in the middle of each tube, two marks must be applied, and connected to each other with a rubber hose, after which, from mark to mark, fill the entire system with plain water.

Stage 4: assembly and installation of the supporting frame

After marking, the UD guide profile can be fixed to the walls around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, use self-tapping screws with plastic dowels 6x60 mm, setting them at a distance of 400-600 mm between them.

In the event that the ceiling in the room is fairly even, and you are not planning a hidden laying of communications, the ceiling guide profile can be fixed directly to the ceiling. Otherwise, one of two types of remote hangers must be used to mount it. As an example, I will talk about how to properly mount the profile to the ceiling using perforated U-shaped remote hangers.

First of all, using the same self-tapping screws and plastic dowels, you need to fix all remote U-shaped suspensions from a perforated metal strip to the ceiling;

To do this, we need markings in the form of squares on the ceiling. Along the entire length of each straight marking line, such a number of hangers must be fixed so that the distance between them is about 1000 mm;
After that, it is necessary to install longitudinal ceiling profiles. To do this, one whip of the “CD” profile must be inserted into the U-shaped suspensions, and temporarily fixed with a long nail or hairpin;
Next, bring its end inside the wall profile, and fix it with two self-tapping screws. After that, the ceiling profile must be set strictly horizontally in level, and also fixed to the legs of each suspension with self-tapping screws;

If the length of one whip is not enough, then it can be increased with the same profile. After it is fixed to all remote hangers, its free end must be brought into the wall profile of the opposite wall, and also fixed with two self-tapping screws;
Thus, it is necessary to fix all longitudinal ceiling profiles. During installation, make sure that the distance between the center lines of each profile is exactly 600 mm, with an allowable error of not more than 10 mm in each direction.

After that, you need to install transverse jumpers. They are mounted in the same way, at a distance of 600 mm from each other, and are also attached to the wall profile and to the U-shaped hangers;
The only difference is that all internal lintels are attached to the longitudinal profiles with crabs. This mounting technology allows you to connect two profiles to each other at right angles in the same horizontal plane.

To prevent sagging of the supporting frame in the central part of the ceiling, I recommend installing temporary control diagonals. To do this, you need to wrap one self-tapping screw in the wall guide profile, in each corner of the room, and then tie it to them, and pull a thin nylon thread tightly along the diagonals of the room.

Stage 5: filing drywall sheets

When the load-bearing frame is fully assembled and mounted on the ceiling, I recommend re-checking its geometric dimensions and making sure that it is located strictly horizontally. After that, you can start directly attaching drywall to the ceiling.

Each sheet of gypsum board with a thickness of 9.5 mm can have dimensions of 1200x2500 mm or 1200x3000 mm, and the weight of the sheets is 22 or 27 kg, respectively. For this reason, such work must be done by at least two people.

Start the installation of sheets should be from the longitudinal center line, while each sheet should be parallel to the long wall;

Before attaching drywall to the ceiling, the first sheet must be applied from below to the supporting frame so that its short side does not reach the short wall by 2 mm, and its long edge runs exactly in the middle of the central axial profile;
Having installed the first sheet in the desired position, one person must hold it from below, and press it with his hands to the metal frame, and the second person, in the meantime, must fix it to the profile with self-tapping screws;
Self-tapping screws must be screwed evenly around the entire perimeter of the sheet, in increments of 150-200 mm, while fastening must be done not only in longitudinal guides, but also in transverse jumpers. It is necessary to wrap the self-tapping screw with such an effort that the hat sinks into the plasterboard by about 1 mm;

The second sheet must also be pressed against the supporting frame, and rest it with its short side against the short edge of the first sheet. Thus, first of all, it is necessary to fix one row of sheets on one side of the center line;
It is desirable that the joints of the sheets in the first and second rows are not located opposite each other.. In most cases, the last sheet of the first row will have to be cut to length. In order for the sheets to be staggered, it is better to start fastening the second row from the opposite side of the room;

Similarly, it is necessary to fix all the other sheets of drywall, while it is important to ensure that they do not reach the walls by 2 mm along the entire perimeter, and their joints fall exactly in the middle of the longitudinal ceiling profile;
Before attaching the extreme sheets along the long walls, they will need to be cut to width. When cutting and fastening the edge sheets, it must be borne in mind that the cut end should be located closer to the wall, and the factory edge with a notch on the edge should be close to the adjacent sheet.

So that the assistant does not have to hold each sheet with his hands, I advise you to make one or two wooden supports for drywall. Each support is a T-shaped structure made of wooden blocks 50x50 mm, made in the form of a mop. The upper horizontal bar of such a "mop" should have a length of 600-800 mm, and the lower supporting leg should rest against the floor, and not reach the supporting frame by 10-12 mm in height.

Stage 6: rough finishing work

After all the sheets of drywall are mounted, even by a professional craftsman, there will be small gaps and cracks between them, and the entire surface of the ceiling will be dotted with black caps from self-tapping screws. In order to give it a finished look and prepare it for painting or wallpapering, a rough finish is performed at the final stage of the suspended ceiling installation.

I advise you to use ready-made acrylic-based finishing putty for this.

Puttying the ceiling is usually done in two stages.. First you need to putty all visible fasteners, caps from self-tapping screws, longitudinal and transverse joints between sheets, as well as other large irregularities and surface defects;

The long edges of drywall sheets are usually chamfered, or a shallow notch is made. In order to prevent the seams from cracking over time, in the process of puttying it is necessary to lay a reinforcing glass mesh in this recess, which is popularly called "serpyanka";
When the first layer of putty is completely hardened, it must be sanded with medium grit sandpaper (P80-P100).
For gluing thick wallpaper on a thick vinyl or fiberglass base, such surface preparation will be enough;

If you plan to paint the ceiling with interior acrylic paint, I recommend applying another thin layer of finishing putty, and after it dries, sand the entire surface with fine sandpaper with a grit of P100-P150;
Finally, you need to remove fine dust from putty with a damp cloth or a soft wide brush, and apply one or two layers of a penetrating primer for interior work over the entire ceiling area.

For sanding the surface after puttying, I recommend using an electric orbital sander with replaceable perforated Velcro sanding discs. If there is no such machine, then to evenly remove the excess layer of putty, you can use a manual plastic holder with spring clips for rolled emery skins.

Stage 7: installation of a ceiling lamp

In any enclosed space, even with natural light, ceiling lights or chandeliers are required. As you know, drywall ceiling sheets have a small thickness (9.5 mm), therefore they are not able to withstand a significant weight load. Modern household chandeliers can have a fairly large variation in size and weight. If a light small ceiling lamp can be fixed directly to drywall or a metal profile, then this method will not work for a massive heavy chandelier.

For those who do not know how to fix a chandelier to a plasterboard false ceiling, I can suggest two simple but very reliable ways:

The first of these is that when installing a metal supporting frame, it is necessary to foresee the installation of a thick plywood embedded platform. This method can be used to mount any ceiling lights weighing up to 20 kg;

In those places where the project provides for the installation of lamps or chandeliers, a round or square plywood platform 250x250 mm in size and at least 20 mm thick must be attached to the main concrete ceiling;
After finishing the ceiling, the lamp can be screwed to the plywood through drywall, with ordinary wood screws measuring 4.5x50 mm;
If the chandelier is to be hung on a hook, then a mounting hook with a large screw thread must be wrapped into the board, which is designed to be screwed into plastic dowels.

The second method involves fixing the chandelier directly into the thickness of the concrete slab of the capital ceiling, therefore it allows you to mount even very heavy and bulky lamps.

In the event that the interceiling space has a height of more than 200 mm, I recommend preparing the mounting point for the chandelier in advance, before installing drywall sheets;
If the space between the main and false ceiling is less than 200mm, then the hook for fixing the chandelier can be installed after finishing the fine finish;
To do this, you must first cut a hole with a diameter of 50 mm in drywall, and then using a puncher with a 10 mm drill, drill a hole in the center of the concrete slab to a depth of at least 80 mm;
On a long eyebolt or a threaded stud with a hook with a diameter of 8 mm, by hand, you need to screw the expansion anchor MSA10.
Then insert, and lightly hammer it into the hole in the concrete slab, and wrap the eye bolt into the anchor along the thread, until a characteristic metal creak appears;
This method is also good because it allows you to hide long wires behind a plasterboard ceiling.

To secure a light fixture or chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling, a folding spring anchor can be used. To do this, in the drywall, you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 8 mm, squeeze the spring-loaded paws of the anchor with your fingers, and push it into the hole. After the paws open behind the drywall sheet under the action of the spring, you need to tighten the clamping nut from the outside.

Conclusion

If according to the technical project, interior design involves the manufacture of a multi-level ceiling, all work must be performed in the same sequence. The difference lies in the fact that you first need to mount a continuous plasterboard coating over the entire ceiling area, and then proceed with the installation and sewing of additional decorative levels and cornices for backlighting.

You can see all the visual information about installing drywall on ceilings on the attached video in this article, and if you have any questions, I suggest discussing them in the comment form.

Drywall has acquired the status of an indispensable material for repairs in an apartment. What they don’t make of it: various arches, niches, line the walls. We have already talked about multi-level structures, but we have not yet had time to mention plasterboard suspended ceilings. Today we will fix this and give you detailed instructions with a video and step-by-step photos of our work.

What makes drywall ceilings better than ordinary plaster?

The ability to level any irregularities with the least effort. If you do this with the help, the maximum allowable layer will be 5 cm (if we talk about Rotband). A thicker layer will need to be applied in two passes.
In the frame, you can hide any communications, pipes, wires.
You can integrate almost any directional lighting into the ceiling. Well-chosen light will significantly change the final look of the repair.
Finishing ceilings with plasterboard allows you to create single- and multi-level structures with different designs and shapes of bends, as well as.
In addition, you can additionally build in isolation from extraneous sounds, insulate the room.
Installation of drywall on the ceiling is carried out by a dry method, so there will be no need to wait for the solution to dry. After all, you don't have to be a professional plasterer to get a perfectly smooth surface.

However, filing the ceiling with drywall has its drawbacks:

Reducing the height of the room by at least 5 cm due to the high profile height.
Difficult installation process for a novice master. Be sure to have a puncher and a screwdriver. It is desirable to have a laser level.
In the future, cracks may appear at the joints of the sheets.
It's hard to deal with alone. At a minimum, during the sheathing, the help of a partner will be required.

Of course, for beginners it is even more difficult than drywall. Evaluate all the pros and cons for yourself and make a choice - what you like best.

Here we will look at how to assemble a plasterboard suspended ceiling of the simplest single-level design.

Required Tools

Before making a plasterboard ceiling, purchase the missing tools and materials.

List of tools and accessories:

guide profiles 28*27 mm (PN);
ceiling profiles 60*27 mm (PP);
direct suspensions;
single-level profile connectors - crabs;
metal scissors;
self-adhesive sealing tape;
anchor wedges;
dowel-nails;
paint thread (cord-breaking device);
laser level or hydraulic level;
bubble level 2 m;
rule 2.5 m;
drywall sheets;
putty for seams;
sickle - reinforcing tape for seams;
perforator with a drill;
screwdriver;
hardened self-tapping screws for metal with a frequent pitch of 25-35 mm;
self-tapping screws with a press washer;
acrylic primer;
if necessary, sound and heat insulation;
extensions for profiles, if required;
spatula wide, narrow and angular;
standard tools: tape measure, hammer, knife.

This is such a long list, but you probably already have half.

Important nuances - what beginners need to know

To calculate the required number of profiles, fasteners and drywall, you should first familiarize yourself with the installation technology. Next, the calculation will be shown on the example of a specific room and the consumption of materials will be shown.

If you do not know which drywall is best for the ceiling, or profiles for the frame, then buy products from well-known manufacturers, for example, the leader of them is Knauf. By buying cheap low-quality profiles, you risk getting a sagging ceiling over your head.

- As for the hydro level, it is needed in order to mark a perfectly horizontal line on the walls, regardless of the curvature of the room. It is based on the physical law of communicating vessels, so it will need to be filled with water to work. Two water level vessels on opposite walls will show the same level. You will make marks and then connect them with painter's thread. In general, you can’t do without a hydro level if you don’t have a laser level, because you are tormented by the usual bubble level to draw a line around the perimeter of the room, in the end it will still turn out to be uneven.
- The manufacture of plasterboard ceilings can be either from ordinary sheets or from moisture resistant ones. If you are making repairs in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen or loggia, use a moisture-resistant one: it contains hydrophobic additives. These two types differ in the color of cardboard: moisture-resistant green, and ordinary - gray.

Each type of drywall has its own color

- Plasterboard ceiling sheathing usually occurs in sheets with a thickness of 8 to 9.5 mm. Recall that heavier sheets are usually used for walls - 12.5 mm thick.
- The sealing tape is a porous material with a self-adhesive backing, 30 mm wide. It is used to fasten the structure so that the plasterboard ceiling frame fits snugly against the concrete and transmits less sounds.

Ceiling markings and rail fasteners

- First you need to find the lowest corner in the room. To do this, measure each corner with a tape measure, and preferably the center of the room. In the lowest corner, you need to make a mark at a distance of 5 cm from the ceiling if you do not plan to build in fixtures, or 8 cm if there are fixtures.
- Now, using the hydro level, make marks at the same level as the first point on each corner.

Cord-breaker for marking the wall (painting cord)

- Now you need to make a beating to evenly connect all the points with a horizontal line. Stretch the paint cord between the marks and release it sharply so that it hits the wall - the paint on the cord will leave an even imprint. Make lines around the entire perimeter of the room.

Taping with masking tape

Before hemming the ceiling with drywall, we recommend that you make notes about the position of the profiles on the walls. So it will be easier to look for them when attaching sheets to the frame.

- Now fix the guide profiles to the walls. To do this, attach one guide to the line (the bottom edge of the profile - along the line) and make marks on the wall through the finished holes on the profile. There should also be holes along the edges of the profile, so if there are none, step back 10 cm and do it yourself. Drill holes according to the marks.

Then you need to glue the sealing tape on the profile and fix it with dowels to the wall. We fasten at least 3 dowels.
Next, mark up the main ceiling profiles. Since the width of the drywall sheet is 120 cm, usually the profiles are placed at a distance of 40 cm from each other in order to fix the sheet at the edges and in the middle. So, make lines on the ceiling in 40 cm increments.
With such a small step of ceiling profiles, jumpers between them are needed only at the transverse joints of the sheets, that is, every 2.5 m (standard length of drywall sheets). This means that the suspension pitch for ceiling profiles should be an integer number of times smaller, for us 50 cm will be optimal. It should be noted that the first row of suspensions will be twice as close to the wall, therefore 50:2 = 25 cm. The second row will be 25 +50 = 75 cm and so on in increments of 50 cm.
For marking, attach the suspension at the desired points on the ceiling and make 2 marks for each under the anchors. There will be a lot of dust while drilling holes, so be sure to wear goggles and a respirator.

Frame installation

- We fix the hangers with anchors, they hold the suspended ceiling much better. The dowels can be pulled out by pulling a little with pliers, so they are not suitable for the ceiling. Also do not forget to stick the sealing tape on the hangers. When you fix the suspension, bend its ends properly so that they bend as much as possible. During subsequent fastening, they should no longer sag, otherwise the profiles will not be fixed unevenly.

Profile extension attachment

- Now you can start installing ceiling profiles. They are 3m long, so if your room is smaller, cut them with metal shears 1cm shorter than the room. If the room is longer, you will need special connecting fasteners to increase the length of the profile.

Note! When building a profile in length, the joints of adjacent profiles should not be on the same line. Also, there should be a suspension near the joints.

- Fastening ceiling profiles to suspensions starts from the corners of the room. To secure them without sagging, your partner should take the rule and hold it with a wide grip (so as not to sag) to the two rails that form an angle (i.e. the rule should be diagonal). This way it will maintain your profile at the level of the guides. At this point, you will screw the profile to the hangers with 4 self-tapping screws with a press washer. Also, do not forget to attach the profiles to the guides. So that they do not hang out, it is better to buy self-tapping screws without a drill.
- The corners are ready, now we fix the center of the ceiling profiles on the suspensions. If the rule cannot be applied to the center in the same way, then apply it exactly from the starting profile. Be sure to check for evenness with a long level. After attaching the hangers, bend the excess length of the ends up.

- In the same way, fasten the second profile, supporting the rule. Then go to the opposite wall and attach the next 2 ceiling profiles. Then go to the center and hang the remaining profiles, relying on the already installed ones.
- Now you need to fix the jumpers where the drywall joints will be (every 2.5 m). They are fastened with the help of special single-level mounts - crabs. In the right places, screw the crabs on 4 self-tapping screws. If you retreat from the main ceiling a small distance, then the crabs may not pass from above, so you will have to hang them in advance.

Fasteners for suspended frame

Cut the jumpers from the ceiling profile and fasten to the crab with 4 self-tapping screws, bending the antennae. It is not necessary to fasten the jumpers to the profiles from below, they will be fixed by drywall.
If necessary, mineral wool is usually used. It is cut into rectangles larger than the cells and fits inside the frame, additionally clinging to the suspensions. To enhance the effect, you can also fill the cavities of the profiles with it. Mineral wool absorbs sound very well, but when working with it, be sure to use a respirator and gloves.

If you want to see the installation of a plasterboard ceiling in action, the video tutorial will help you learn some of the nuances of the work:

Fastening drywall to frame

Note! Before fixing drywall, it must be in the room for at least a couple of days. However, it can only be stored in a horizontal position.

Self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed

Start fastening drywall to the ceiling by chamfering: you need to cut the edges with a knife at an angle so that the putty then penetrates well into the gap. There is already a chamfer on the glued ends, so there is no need to remove it there.
Start fastening the sheet from the corner with a pitch of 20 cm screws, retreat 10-15 mm from the edges. On adjacent sheets, screw the screws at different levels, in a run. Their hats should be recessed so that they do not stick out, check this by touch.
Attach the sheets to each other in a run-up, shifting at least one cell. They do not need to be joined closely, there should be a gap of 2 mm around the perimeter. The GK sheet must be fixed along the perimeter (including to the wall guides), and in the center.

Note! If you have outside corners in your room, avoid joining the sheet near the corner. If you do not make a joint at least 10 cm from the corner, then a crack will soon appear.

Material counting

Now that you know the installation of a drywall false ceiling, you can calculate the amount of materials needed and the cost of installing it. To do this, it is best to make a drawing of the room indicating all dimensions and place all fasteners and profiles on it.

Ceiling scheme

For a room of 20.8 square meters, we needed:

99 suspensions;
8 sheets of drywall;
19 ceiling profiles;
8 guides;
24 crabs.

The approximate price of installation work for hired workers is about 400 rubles per square. You can calculate the benefit if you do everything yourself - saving 8320 rubles. As you can see, it turns out a good benefit, you can even recoup the purchase of tools.

Seam sealing

Now let's talk about the last stage - how to putty the plasterboard ceiling and seal the seams. First of all, treat the seams with a primer and wait for it to dry. No need to tear the cardboard off the sheets. To seal the seams, you need to use especially strong putties, for example, Knauf Uniflott, the usual one will not work for this.

- Dilute the putty according to the instructions on the package. First seal all the seams against the wall, then all the joints and caps of the self-tapping screws. To seal factory seams, first fill it in, and then align the recess along the edges of the sheets with a wide spatula.

Note! Since 2013, Knauf has been producing plasterboards with a new edge (PLUK), which increases the strength of the putty at the joints and makes it possible not to use a reinforcing mesh on such an edge. Therefore, at the factory joints of the sheets, you can not use the mesh if you seal the seams with Knauf Uniflott putty.

A new type of Knauf edge allows you to apply putty into the seams more densely

- When the putty dries, stick self-adhesive tape (serpyanka) on the seams. Glue it overlap at the intersections. Dilute a little more putty and cover the sickle and the remaining small irregularities. Puttying the plasterboard ceiling in the corners is best done with an angled spatula.
- So you minimize the appearance of cracks at the joints. To enhance the effect, you can. Now the surface is ready for further puttying in the usual way. If you still have small protrusions after sealing the seams, then the finishing layer will hide everything.

In this article, we examined in detail how to sheathe a ceiling with drywall, and now you can make it at home with your own hands. We have described the process of creating a single-level structure, but if you decide, the order of work will change slightly.

Finishing a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands in most cases is fraught with many doubts. A wide range of materials and colors, a variety of design solutions - all this does not contribute to easily choosing something specific.

Why drywall?

Type of drywall (brand)	Application area	Leaf color	Marking color
Ordinary (GKL)	Wall and ceiling decoration; construction of non-load-bearing partitions	Grey	Blue
Moisture resistant (GKLV)	Finishing walls and ceilings of kitchens, bathrooms and toilets; construction of partitions in rooms with high humidity	Green	Blue
Fire resistant (GKLO)	Finishing of air ducts and communication shafts; finishing of metal structures in civil buildings	Grey	Red
Moisture-resistant (GKLVO)	Finishing structures to achieve the required degree of fire resistance in wet areas (kitchens, bathrooms, baths, saunas, etc.)	Green	Red

Among the variety of finishing materials, experts advise choosing exactly drywall. This is one of the most popular materials in our country, which, thanks to the latest developments, has recently acquired such qualities as resistance to moisture and high temperatures. In this regard, drywall can be:

The popularity of the material is caused by numerous advantages, including:

no need for complex preparatory procedures - material processing is as simple as possible;
low cost;
ease of processing and installation;
a wide range of applications;
unpretentiousness in care (you need to wipe the ceiling with a damp cloth once every few months).

But there are also disadvantages:

lack of elasticity (in which drywall loses to PVC film);
susceptibility to moisture (if the material is not moisture resistant);
combustibility (if not fire-resistant, respectively).

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Stage 1. Drawing up a project

You need a project to work. To create it, you can use one of the special architectural programs that allow you to get a ready-made scheme and the necessary volumes of consumables. If you do everything the old fashioned way, you will have to spend much more time and effort.

Step 1. Using a special formula, the perimeter is determined. It looks like this (if the dimensions of the room, for example, are 5x4 m):

(5 + 4) x 2 = 18 m (P)

It turns out that the length of the guide profiles will be 18 m. Then the data obtained are displayed on graph paper.

Note! If the length of the opposite walls is different (this happens quite often), then a larger indicator is taken for calculations.

Step 2. After that, you need to start calculating the frame profile. Profiles 6x2.7 cm will be used in the work - they will be fixed in increments of 0.6 m. It is important that the length of each profile is equal to the width of the room. To calculate the number of slats, the width of the room (400 cm) must be divided by a step (60 cm). As a result of simple calculations, we get: 6.66 (the amount is rounded up to 7.0).

The first and last rails are attached 10 cm from the surface of the walls, and all the rest - according to the above step.

Note! A step of 60 cm was not chosen by chance. The fact is that the standard width of drywall sheets is 0.6 or 1.2 m.

The rail attachment points are transferred to the project.

400/60 x 7 = 47 pieces.

The first and last suspension is attached 30 cm from the surface of the walls. Attachment points are indicated in the diagram by crosses. We also note that it is preferable to use spring suspensions, while straight ones are acceptable only in two cases:

with an absolutely flat ceiling surface;
with a structure height of more than 12 cm.

Step 4. After that, you need to determine the number of jumpers that will stiffen the structure.

((400/60) - 1) x 7 = 40 pieces.

Step 5. It remains only to determine the required number of self-tapping screws and drywall sheets. With a known area of \u200b\u200bthe room (20 m²) and sheet (3 m²), this is quite simple to do - almost five sheets of material will be required.

With self-tapping screws, too, there should not be any difficulties:

"thirtieth" self-tapping screws will fix drywall (step length - 25 cm);
products 60x6 will be used for walls (step length - 30 cm) and ceiling (60 cm);
for fittings, LN11 screws will be used: for "crabs" and profiles, 4 pcs each, for suspensions and profiles - 2 pcs each.

You also need to note the number of lighting devices and determine the length of the wiring.

Stage 2. Prepare equipment and consumables

Of course, each master has his own list of necessary tools, because in this matter a lot depends on skill and the ability to use them. But there are those without which it is unlikely that the work will be successful:

Note! Depending on the characteristics of the ceiling, the list can be supplemented, for example, with clamps for joining profiles located at different heights (if there are large stones in the concrete that interfere with normal drilling), etc.

Stage 3. Guide frame

After preparing everything you need, you can get to work.

Step 1. First, using a tape measure, the lowest corner of the room is determined. It is labeled:

5 cm from the ceiling, if it is not planned to install built-in lighting fixtures;
9 cm if planned.

Step 2 Using the level, a similar height is marked in the remaining corners. After that, several more marks are placed along each wall at the height of the first point; all marks are connected to each other with a pencil, using a stretched cord or a long ruler. Although there is another option - to designate these lines dotted.

Step 3 A guide profile is attached to the walls. If connecting seams are planned between the corners (and in large rooms there is no way without it), then the structure must be additionally strengthened in order to avoid the “drifting” of the elements under its weight. For this, any dense material - tin, plastic or plywood - is suitable, which must be applied over each seam and fixed to the wall with strong dowels.

Note! A special sealing tape (“serpianka”) is more suitable for this, but it is not sold in all hardware stores.

After that, the corner joints of the profile are strengthened.

Stage 4. Main ceiling profile

Step 1. As noted above, most often drywall sheets have dimensions of 120 x 250 cm, which is why it is desirable to fix the ceiling profiles in increments of 40 cm - so each sheet will be fixed at the edges and twice in the middle.

The ceiling is marked with parallel lines with a forty-centimeter step.

Step 2. Every 2.5 meters (that is, at the transverse joints), jumpers from the same profile are attached. Of course, if the sheet sizes are different, then the distance is determined individually. At the joints, "crabs" are installed.

Step 3. Next, you need to determine the location of the hangers. The first of them is installed 25 cm from the wall surface, all subsequent ones - in increments of 50 cm. Anchors are used to fasten the hangers (ordinary dowels will not work, because they have no thread, and the structure can “pull out” from the ceiling under the influence of gravity).

Step 4. Ceiling profiles are attached to hangers. You need to start from the corners of the room. Everything, the frame for the false ceiling is ready.

Stage 5. Thermal insulation

If there is a desire, the suspended ceiling can be insulated with the help of a special system of fasteners, which is popularly called the "fungus".

Prices for popular types of heaters

insulation

Stage 6. Installation of drywall sheets

First, a number of important nuances should be clarified: drywall is extremely sensitive to high humidity, temperature, and also to deformations. Therefore, it is necessary to store the material exclusively in a horizontal position, and a few days before the start of work, move it to the room where the repair is being carried out so that it “rests”. This will allow you to adapt the structure of the material to specific conditions.

Further actions must be performed according to the instructions.

Step 1. First, material for those places where you need less than a whole sheet.

Step 2. The chamfer on the edge is removed with a mounting knife - this will ensure a deeper penetration of the putty material into the slots.

Step 3. Drywall fastening starts from one of the corners, the first screw is placed 10 cm from the edge. The distance between the screws is 20 cm.

Note! Screw heads must be sunk. It is also important that the screws on the "neighboring" sheets are not located opposite each other, but apart.

Step 4. The following sheets are installed. A small gap remains along the perimeter (about 2 mm), the sheets are joined with a minimum shift of 1 cell. It is necessary to ensure that each sheet is attached both in the center and along the edges.

Video - Installing a false ceiling

Stage 7. Finishing the ceiling

Particular attention is paid to the seams, since the aesthetics of the future design directly depend on the quality of their sealing.

Step 1. First, the seams are sealed with a primer - this will change the porous structure, it will become denser and, as a result, it will better absorb the putty. After that, you need to wait until the primer is completely absorbed and dried.

Step 2 Putty is applied to the screw heads and the seams between the sheets. To do this, you need to use only a high-quality spatula, with sharp and even edges.

It must be special, intended for seams (this point must be clarified in a hardware store or in the manufacturer's instructions).

Step 3. When the seams are completely dry, they should be glued with seam tape. It is characteristic that the joints are sealed with an overlap. The tape is treated with putty, all the cracks found are sealed in parallel.

Step 4. After drying, the final coat is applied (for example, paint, plaster, etc.).

Step 5. Are mounted (if they are provided for by the project drawn up earlier).

Video - Installation of spotlights

Note! Installingfrom drywall do it yourselfDon't forget about personal protective equipment. Use goggles and a respirator - they will keep you healthy.

Operating rules

The quality of the ceiling largely depends on the moisture resistance of the drywall used. The average humidity in the premises is 40-75%, as a result of which regular ventilation is desirable.
To increase the life of the false ceiling, you should clean the surface in time. This can be done with a dry or damp cloth (in the second case, a small amount of cleaning agent should be added to the water).
The use of abrasive materials is strictly prohibited!
To ensure that the temperature inside the structure does not differ from the temperature in the room, the panels are removed immediately after installation. Next, a layer of vapor-tight material is laid (even if insulation was previously laid).
Pencil marks can be removed with a regular eraser.
The internal space of the structure must be ventilated, for which a gap of approximately 2 mm must be left around the perimeter.

As you can see, installing a false ceiling is quite simple, but only if you have the appropriate tools and detailed instructions.

TOP 5 best drywall manufacturers

	A photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1		Knauf	⭐ 100 / 100
#2

A simple installation of a plasterboard ceiling provides an opportunity to do it yourself without involving professionals. The procedure for creating a ceiling structure does not require special skills, there is no need to purchase special tools, since they are available in almost every family.

Structural solution

The plasterboard ceiling device is a metal frame rigidly fixed to the ceiling and walls, which is sheathed with plasterboard sheets from below. To create the basis of the structure, a special profile made of galvanized metal is used, it is suspended on a rigid suspension to the base ceiling or a rod suspension with special brackets is used.

The components of the frame are arranged so that the lining of the ceilings with plasterboard is as simple as possible, and the ceiling structure itself is held firmly and securely. In order to ensure greater rigidity, the suspended ceiling is also fixed on the walls of the room, using a special profile for this.

The installation of a plasterboard ceiling can be single-level and multi-level (each tier is located on a separate level). There are no fundamental differences between both types of ceiling structures. Therefore, those who work out the technology of their creation well on the simplest options will eventually be able to create a plasterboard ceiling of complex shape.

Materials and tools

After a decision has been made on the shape of the future ceiling structure, it is necessary to purchase everything for the plasterboard ceiling: materials and missing tools.

To create a design, you need the following tools:

perforator;
metal scissors;
screwdriver;
saw or knife;
building level and tape measure.

You will need the following materials for a plasterboard ceiling:

drywall sheets. The number of sheets is calculated based on the surface area of the ceiling and the number of tiers of the structure. As a rule, manufacturers produce drywall slabs in a standard size - 250 by 120 centimeters. You need to know which drywall to use for the ceiling in this particular case. This material is ordinary or moisture resistant;
profile. It is necessary for the construction of the frame. The starting view of the profile is mounted along the perimeter of the room on the walls, and the carrier (main) is suspended from the ceiling;
suspensions. They are selected taking into account the distance between the surface of the suspended structure and the base base. When the future ceiling is planned to be installed at a significant distance from the base, a suspension with a bracket on a wire rod is chosen;
fasteners. These include self-tapping screws and dowels;
putty. Required to eliminate gaps at the joints of the sheets, after the ceiling is covered with plasterboard.

Creating a drywall ceiling

Stage one . The installation of a plasterboard ceiling begins with the manufacture of a metal frame from a profile. The base floor is cleaned of the previous finish, lighting fixtures are removed and communications are prepared. A base line is drawn on the walls around the perimeter of the room - the level of the structure will be located along it. Since the end result depends on how smoothly it is carried out, when marking, a building level is used, preferably a laser one.

According to the markup, the starting profile is attached. To do this, holes are made in the walls with a puncher, where dowels are then hammered. Both metal and plastic products can be used, since the load exerted on this node is negligible.

After completing the fastening of the starting profile, the main lines are outlined on the base ceiling and suspensions are attached to it, and then they are bent up. When using a rod suspension, its base is mounted in the ceiling on a dowel. Then, a frame is assembled from the supporting profile, consisting of longitudinal and transverse elements. They are attached to the suspensions and connected to each other, for which they use longitudinal connectors or the so-called "crabs", which allow you to join the profile beams at right angles.

To control the horizontal position of the lower plane of the metal frame, a level is used.

Stage two . Drywall ceiling technology provides for the installation of material slabs after the frame is completed (read: ""). As already mentioned, the choice of material depends on the installation location of the ceiling structure.

What drywall is needed for the ceiling? If it is a living room, bedroom, children's room, office or library, use ordinary sheets. When the ceiling is planned to be installed in the bathroom, a moisture-resistant type of material is chosen.

GKL fastening sequence:

using a saw (knife), the sheets are cut to the desired size. It is not difficult to do this, usually only the top layer is cut, and then the slab is broken according to the cut line;
the prepared GKL is applied to the frame and fixed. In the absence of an assistant for installation and accuracy, experts advise fixing the plates on the frame with clamps;
when partitions and ceilings are made of plasterboard, the sheets are attached to the frame using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. The head of the fastener must not protrude above the surface of the sheet, and must not be pressed into it hard, as the cardboard will break through.

The attached drywall is puttied, while paying special attention to the joints and the location of the self-tapping screws. When the putty has dried well, the surface is sanded by hand with fine sandpaper or with a grinder. Next, the surface of the ceiling system is finished.

The above technology for creating a plasterboard ceiling allows you to create both single-level simple ceilings and original complex multi-tiered structures.