Drawing table with your own hands. Do-it-yourself table for giving (44 photos): choice of materials and tools. Decoration. Homemade tables for a summer residence

Everyone associates the word dacha with a small garden, a vegetable garden and a comfortable seating area. After all, after working in the garden, you really want to relax in nature, fry a barbecue and just relax with your family.

To equip a recreation area, you need to build a gazebo or make a canopy and install it with a bench or chairs.

Such a piece of furniture does not have to be bought in a store ready-made. You can do it yourself if you stock up on free time, drawings, tools.

The feature of tables for outdoor use is their:


A table in the country can be made from different materials:

  • tree;
  • vines;
  • metal;
  • natural or artificial stone.

Each individual option has its own advantages. But most wooden models are in great demand. Since it is pleasant and convenient to work with a tree, and you can make a product of any complexity on your own, without making much effort.

What type of wood to make?

Before you start building a country table, carefully select the wood. Since the service life of the product, its wear resistance and appearance will depend on its technical characteristics. Most often, outdoor furniture is made from:


Concerning benefits wooden outdoor furniture from any type of wood, then these include:

To shortcomings wood products include:

  • the likelihood of ignition;
  • insect damage;
  • the likelihood of decay.

Advice: to increase the resistance of the tree to all negative factors, it must be treated with special means.

Also, most people refer to the disadvantages of country tables made of wood. big weight. But such products are installed on the street once a year. At the request of the owners, for the winter they can be removed to the summer kitchen or any household. building.

Attention: when placing a wooden table in the open air, it is necessary to think over the space for water drainage.

Dimensional drawing

To make a table with your own hands, you will need to draw up a drawing. So you prevent mistakes during the workflow, and make furniture much faster. This drawing should have the following symbols:

  • length of the product;
  • width;
  • depth;
  • height.

Also in the drawing, the materials of their manufacture should be noted. For furniture designed for 8-10 people, the optimal size of the tabletop will be 80 by 120 cm.

Important: the dimensions of the table for giving are calculated based on the needs of users and the availability of free space in the summer cottage.

If there is a lot of free space, you can assemble a spacious country house. table with benches. The advantages of this design include:

  • capacity;
  • stability;
  • ease of use.

Some people prefer tables with ice box. Such designs are convenient. In the summer heat, they can cool drinks. This model is practically no different from a product with benches. Only in the middle of the tabletop is an ice box made. Instead of an ice box, you can build a table with flowers. In the middle of the tabletop you will have a beautiful flower bed.

If there is not much free space on the plot, you should opt for folding model furniture. It differs:

  • compact size and ergonomics;
  • light weight;
  • different transformation options.

Important: for the manufacture of countertops, it is worth choosing a board with a thickness of 3-5 cm.

Tools and Consumables

From the tools for making a wooden table, you need to prepare:


From the materials we need:

  • lumber;
  • furniture glue.

Manufacturing and assembly

Main components tables are:

  • load-bearing frame;
  • countertop;
  • support bars.

The process of assembling the table is carried out in the following sequence:


A round table will look very attractive at their summer cottage. For him, you need to prepare:

  • base;
  • racks;
  • countertop;
  • tabletop base.

The assembly stage will consist in the following sequence:


How to paint garden furniture

Since the garden table will be located in the open air, it will be affected by increased moisture and sudden changes in temperature. Also, the tree will be attacked by pests.

You can extend the life of the country table with the help of different impregnation, paint, varnish.

To do this, use a special outdoor paint.

A photo

Real craftsmen can make works of art out of simple outdoor furniture:

Useful video

All steps are shown in detail in the following video:

Conclusion

In conclusion, it is worth noting that you can make a country table with your own hands in a fairly short time. To do this, a drawing of the future product is created, consumables and tools are selected. With a competent approach to assembling a table for a summer residence, you will build an attractive and practical product, behind which your friendly family will gather every weekend for a summer and pleasant holiday.

In contact with

If you dream of having a good time on your personal plot, then you just need a large table that can accommodate a company of your friends and relatives. And you can do it yourself, spending quite a bit of time on it. In some cases, you may need an assistant, sometimes an extra pair of hands will not hurt.

This article is a detailed step-by-step instruction for making a wooden table for a summer residence.

So that you have a choice, we offer you four options for country table projects at once - two ordinary picnic tables, a table with benches, which are a single structural unit, and, finally, a round table. You must think through all the details in advance and choose the type and size of the table that suits your needs and matches the style of decoration of your backyard.

Folding picnic tables - mobility is paramount

Folding tables are very convenient, and most importantly, practical and simple. They don't take up much space. At any moment, such a table can neatly fit folded into the garage, and if necessary, move again to the street. Furniture mobility is especially appreciated in small areas.

How to make a garden wooden table with your own hands

A dacha is the place where a master wakes up in a person, a carpenter, a carpenter, a gardener, in general, a master. Buying furniture for a suburban area is a simple matter, but not everyone can make a wooden table for a summer residence with their own hands. You should immediately be ready to make a garden table with your own hands for several days. But the tips below will help you make a solid table yourself.

Today we will design a fairly simple country table with our own hands in the Provencal style. Such tables not only look great, but also have a fairly reliable design. It is worth paying attention to the boards. They must be even, since the appearance of our country table will directly depend on this.

When designing a table for a summer residence, it is necessary to prepare lumber in three dimensions:

  • Bearing frame - section 38 X 90 mm.
  • Tabletop - section 38 X 140 mm.
  • Supporting bars - section 19 X 64 mm.
  1. Drawing

Before starting work, the most important thing is to find it on the Internet, or to independently make drawings of a table for a summer residence with your own hands. An accurate schematic designation will allow you to select lumber that will be most suitable in cross section to the dimensions indicated on the diagram. It doesn’t matter if the dimensions don’t exactly match each other, because you can always make an adjustment with an electric planer.

  1. Material preparation

When deciding how to make a garden wooden table, approach the issue responsibly, as the life of the furniture will depend on this:

  • purchase of blanks. Professionals advise to purchase lumber from coniferous trees, which was previously well dried. Its main advantages are:
    • price;
    • simplicity and ease of processing by hand;
    • beautiful structure;
  • glue for furniture;
  • 4 X 65 mm screws;
  • 3 mm drill;
  • drill;
  • tape measure, pencil, sandpaper for grinding.
  1. Further actions

We will need:

  • two upper transverse beams, dimensions 38 X 90 X 978 mm;
  • four legs for a country table with your own hands, size 38 X 90 X 695 mm;
  • two bowstrings - 38 X 90 X 921 mm;
  • one longitudinal lower and one upper beam - 38 X 90 X 1575 mm and 38 X 90 X 1473 mm, respectively;
  • two pieces of braces of 38 X 90 X 772 mm;
  • blanks for countertops - seven pieces, size 38 X 90 X 2337 mm;
  • six support bars - 19 x 64 x 432 mm.

Tip: Start work on a level surface. It is imperative to observe the angles of joining parts. The blanks, which will later become the legs of our country table, should be cut on both sides at an angle of 10 °. The slices must be parallel. But the blanks of the bowstring, which are similarly cut at the same angle, should be cut one towards the other.

Stage 2. The legs of our country table should be attached to the cross beams and fasten this entire structure with screws. Each connection has two screws.

We fasten the bowstring diagonally to the leg from the inside, fastening the structure with two screws in the same way.

The lower beam must be connected to each other by both bowstrings. As mentioned above, with the help of screws.

Further, in the upper longitudinal and transverse beams, holes are first made for a fastener, called a dowel, after which we again diagonally connect the blanks of our country wooden table with the available screws.

Tip: when connecting all the elements, use glue for extra strength. Remove excess immediately.

We plant the braces on the screws.

Tip: workpieces intended for braces should first be cut at an angle of 45 degrees

Do-it-yourself blanks for the table top are fastened with screws to the transverse beams.


How to make a rectangular table for a summer residence

After developing a work plan and approving the drawings of a table for a summer residence, purchase all the materials needed for this project. Choose outdoor woods such as pine, cedar, mahogany, or pressed wood. When buying, check each board: they must be perfectly even and without any visible defects. Do not save on the quality of lumber, because your structure will have to withstand all the weather.

There are several important points that you must take into account if you want the result to be of a high professional standard. Do not forget about the accuracy of measurement and the use of professional tools when cutting boards and bars and drilling holes. To increase the reliability of the design, you can additionally use waterproof glue to fasten the parts. Round open edges with a router or sandpaper.

Attention! Sizes are converted from inches and may not match metric measurements. Choose lumber that is as close as possible in size. Or just customize yourself.

Tools needed to implement the project:

  • hacksaw, jigsaw;
  • milling cutter;
  • drill and drills;
  • chalk cord, tape measure, spirit level, pencil;
  • safety goggles and gloves.

Time:

  • From one day to a week, depending on the chosen project. If you have power tools at your disposal, you can finish the job even faster - in just a few hours.

Tips:

  • A milling cutter will help smooth the edges of wooden bars and boards.
  • Before screwing in screws and self-tapping screws, drill guide holes in the wooden structural elements.
  • The heads of the screwed self-tapping screws should not protrude above the wooden surface, and for this the inlet parts of the holes must be countersinked.
  • Do not use cracked or warped lumber.
  • Do not apply excessive force when tightening the screws, otherwise the wood may crack.

DIY picnic table. Step-by-step instruction

Materials:

  • A - Legs: bars 5×10 cm, 106 cm long (2 pcs.), 43 cm long (2 pcs.) and 56 cm long (2 pcs.);
  • B - Frame: bars 5 × 10 cm, 87 cm long (2 pcs.);
  • C - Table top: boards 5×15 cm, length 180 cm (6 pcs.);
  • D - Table top base: boards 5x15 cm, length 87 cm (2 pcs.), bars 5x10 cm, length 62 cm (2 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is the manufacture of table legs. Saw off the bars of the required size. To speed up the process, you can use a circular saw. Smooth out the edges of the bars and saw-off lines with sandpaper.

Connect the bars so that you get an X-shaped structure, and fasten them with 60 mm self-tapping screws, remembering to pre-drill the pilot holes. Lubricate the joints with glue. Make sure there are no cracks or gaps left.

Fasten each pair of legs with a horizontal bar using 60 mm self-tapping screws for this purpose. Cut off the ends of the bars, as shown in the figure.

Lay the boards intended for the manufacture of countertops on a flat surface. We advise you to place pieces of 6 mm plywood between them, this will allow you to form uniform gaps. Place the assembled table sides on the table top and secure them by screwing in the self-tapping screws at an angle of 90 mm. Before fixing, make sure that the legs and the tabletop are perpendicular using a spirit level.

Place the sawn pieces of 5x15 cm board on the underside of the table top and fix them with 60 mm self-tapping screws.

Saw off the ends of the bars, which will act as reinforcing supports for the structure, at an angle of 45º. Install the supports in their place and secure with 90mm self-tapping screws at an angle.

And finally, last but not least: check if the heads of the screws protrude above the wooden surface, and fill all the cracks and holes with wood putty.

Tip: To protect wood surfaces from the damaging effects of atmospheric moisture, coat them with several coats of exterior paint or stain.

Table with benches. Instruction with drawings

Materials:

  • A - Legs: bars 5x10 cm, length 95 cm (4 pieces);
  • B - Crossbeams: bars 5 × 10 cm long 160 cm (2 pcs.);
  • C - Tabletop fastening: bars 5×10 cm, 75 cm long (5 pcs.);
  • D - Inclined supports: bars 5 × 10 cm long 84 cm (2 pcs.);
  • E - Worktop: boards 5×10 cm, length 180 cm (14 pcs.).

It is worth starting work with the manufacture of legs. Since the legs of this table will be inclined, the ends of the 100 cm long bars should be cut at an angle of 30º. Connect the elements with 90 mm bolts.

Make sure the surface you are working on is fairly level. The mounted sidewalls of the table must be identical, only in this case you can hope for an excellent end result.

When the sides of the table are ready, you can start making a wooden table top. We recommend that you put it together on the ground (floor), and then fasten it to the legs with self-tapping screws.

Tip: Don't forget to check the verticality of the side walls of the table with a spirit level, otherwise the end result of your work is unlikely to satisfy you.

Rigidly fix the entire structure with inclined supports. Their ends must first be cut at an angle of 26º.

Now it remains only to build benches. Saw the boards to the desired size, place them on both sides of the table and, having previously drilled several pilot holes at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edges, secure with self-tapping screws.

Tip: To keep the seat boards evenly spaced, place studs or pieces of plywood between them before fixing them. Thanks to this little trick, all the gaps will be the same.

At the end of the work, pay attention to small, but very important touches. Fill all cracks and holes with wood putty. After the putty has dried, sand the wooden surfaces with medium-grit sandpaper.

Tip: Be sure to apply several coats of paint or stain to protect wood surfaces from water and sunlight.

Round table. We do it on our own in the country

Materials:

  • A - Base: bar 5x10 cm long 102.5 cm (1 pc.) and 47 cm long (2 pcs.), bars 2.5x10 cm 9 cm long (4 pcs.);
  • B - Racks: bars 10 × 10 cm, 60 cm long (4 pcs.);
  • C - Tabletop base: 5x10 cm bars 82.5 cm long (1 pc.) and 52.5 cm long (2 pcs.), 2.5x10 cm bars 47.5 cm long (4 pcs.) and 60 cm long (2 pcs.) ;
  • D - Tabletop: boards 2.5×15 cm long 195 cm (9 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is to create the base of the table. To articulate its constituent elements, use waterproof glue and self-tapping screws. Make sure that the corners formed by the joined beams are straight. To protect the assembled table base from rotting from rainwater, place it on small stands made from 2.5x10 cm board scraps.

Now you need to attach four posts made of square bars to the base. Before fixing, make sure they are vertical with a spirit level. The height of the legs may differ from those proposed by us, in this case, you should, first of all, focus on your own needs.

The most difficult stage of the project is the manufacture of countertops. Place the boards on a flat surface and mark the center of the square. Fasten one end of a 60 cm rail at this point. Rotating the second end of the rail, mark the outlines of the circle. A jigsaw with a sharp blade will allow you to make circular cuts at a high professional level.

After sawing the boards of the future tabletop, we recommend that you fasten them together with waterproof glue and additionally fix them with a few clamps. Attach the bars that serve as the base of the tabletop, as shown in the picture (yellow elements should be made from 5x10 cm bars, green - from 2.5x10 cm bars).

Tip: Use waterproof glue and galvanized self-tapping screws (30mm self-tapping screws for 2.5x10cm bars and 50mm screws for 5x10cm bars) to fasten the bars to the countertop.

After the glue has dried, you must attach the legs to the base of the tabletop with 90mm self-tapping screws, pre-drilling pilot holes. Use a spirit level to check the perpendicularity of the legs and the tabletop.

To ensure that the result of your work corresponds to a high professional level, make sure that the heads of the self-tapping screws are recessed deep enough. Cover all cracks and holes with wood putty, after it dries, sand the surface with sandpaper.

Tip: Apply several coats of outdoor paint or wood stain to protect the table from moisture damage. To ensure that the base supports are also untouched by water, place the table on a concrete surface and insulate them hermetically.

Now you know how to make your own picnic table. One has only to make a little effort, which will subsequently be rewarded with enthusiastic exclamations of friends and pleasant summer evenings spent with the family at a large table.

The dacha is a pleasant place not only for work, but also for recreation. In stores, you can find many offers for summer cottages, but a more economical option is to make country tables and chairs yourself.

Do-it-yourself country table

For the manufacture of furniture requires a serious approach, certain tools and skill. But you can make a simple and very economical option from wooden pallets.

Necessary materials:

  • Sandpaper
  • self-tapping screws
  • pallets
  • Wood primer
  • Varnishes and paints for wood


Pallets must be cleaned with a grinder (for this you can use coarse sandpaper). Then process with fine-grained sandpaper, in order to facilitate the work, the paper can be fixed on a bar. Next, it is necessary to coat the pallets with a primer, if necessary, with paint and varnish.

If the finished furniture will be in the open air, the blanks must be varnished. So it lasts longer and lasts for several seasons. Before you start connecting pallets, you need to decide on the type and size, choose a photo of the table for giving on the Internet and make it.


Two or three pallets can be stacked on top of each other and fastened with self-tapping screws. If the table will be used at home, wheels can be attached to it for easy movement.

You can also attach ready-made metal legs to the pallets and thus make a full-fledged dining table. You can also make budget chairs, benches and sofas for the veranda from pallets. This material is the most affordable, you can buy new pallets, or get previously used ones for free.

Folding summer table

Required materials and tools:

  • Hacksaw
  • Screwdriver
  • Roulette
  • A hammer
  • Drill
  • Pencil
  • Wooden lath 5 m long
  • Wooden slab for countertop (board, plywood or OSB)
  • Screws and nuts

When using plywood, it turns out not at all an expensive option. If you have woodworking tools at hand, it is better to use them, so the process will go faster.


First, cut the blanks into the following sizes:

  • 4 pieces of 70 cm
  • 4 pieces of 45 cm
  • Tabletop measuring 45 cm by 65 cm.

In order to properly assemble the folding mechanism, you need to find drawings of country folding tables on the Internet, or step-by-step photographs.


On parts of 70 cm, measure 40 cm from the edge and mark with a pencil, then drill holes. We connect the two legs together with a screw, on the other hand we tighten the nut, we also do the same with the second pair.

We divide the tabletop into two equal parts of 32.5 cm each and cut it. On parts of 45 cm each (for a folding mechanism), we retreat 1 cm from the end of the rail and drill holes. Parts for the folding mechanism must be rounded so that they do not cling to each other.


According to the scheme in the photographs, we collect all the details together and get a folding table. Next, the table must be primed, painted and varnished. When using these dimensions, a very compact table is obtained, it will be convenient to take it with you to nature and carry it in the car.

Additional Information

The design of the folding table can be adapted to your size and make drawings yourself. To make the table look better, the tabletop can be smoothly rounded.

Wood primer helps protect the wood from insects, so don't neglect its use.

When painting tables and chairs, you need to use new brushes, during the process you need to make sure that the paint does not bubble. Usually painted in two stages, you can proceed to the finishing stage after the first coat of paint has dried.


Tables for the street must be varnished so that dampness and mechanical stress do not affect the wood. This must be done in a well-ventilated area; it is better not to take the product outside until it is completely dry.

If the structure is large and there is no way to bring it into the room, you can varnish it on a covered veranda, where moisture cannot harm.

Varnishes vary in degree of protection, some protect only from moisture, others will help to avoid minor scratches, they can also be with the addition of paint.

When making wooden tables, it is necessary to observe safety precautions, use cotton gloves for work, and be careful when working with tools. If the work takes place on the street, you need to ensure that moisture does not get on extension cords and sockets.


DIY country table photo

Often, to create something new, we need the advice of other people. Have you ever made your own furniture for your home? Today we’ll talk about how to make a table for a summer house out of wood with your own hands. The variety of tables is so great that the manufacture of a writing or dining table has its own nuances. But there are also general tips that can be useful when creating this piece of furniture. There are several important aspects that should first be taken into account in this work.

  • choose the right wood;
  • choose the right configuration for your table;
  • create a drawing and mark the necessary details and features on it.

The tree classification can be built as follows:

  1. Soft type: pine, spruce, fir, cedar and other woods.
  2. Hard type: oak, birch, beech, ash, maple, walnut, fruit tree wood.
  3. Very hard type: boxwood, yew, dogwood, birch wood

According to the needs of different people, as well as in the case of individual distinctive situations, different characteristics of wood or its features are important:

  1. Rot resistance.
  2. The texture of the material.
  3. The price of raw materials.

If your goal is to make furniture for a living space (rather than just practicing a skill), then you need to consider the quality of the materials without neglecting them. Dry lumber must be used. How it will be dried is up to you. Evaluate in advance whether you can dry the wood with high quality at home, but if this is not possible, it would be more profitable and wiser to order ready-made material. During drying, the wood will be deformed, this must be taken into account, but at the same time, the purchase of already dry wood is much more expensive. For high-quality shrinkage at home, you will need:

  • constantly stable temperature conditions, otherwise the material will dry in waves;
  • good ventilation in the room, no draft;
  • it should be remembered that this process is very long, the material must be dried without shifting from place to place, for about six months.
  1. Tabletop.

Here, strength plays an important role, as well as the absence or low absorption of moisture by wood. Optimum material: pine, oak. For a pine countertop, choose a cheap but high-quality material - without rotten areas, cracks, protruding knots and other unnecessary defects.

  1. Table legs.

Optimum material: birch, it is she who is strong enough for a constant load, boxwood and acacia are also suitable.

To make a table made of wood, the material must first be processed with sandpaper. If you are just starting your carpentry career, it is worth using birch, pine, oak, acacia and boxwood in your work.

There are several advantages to using wood in construction:

  • easily subjected to various processing;
  • sufficiently resistant to changes in temperature and humidity;
  • good depreciation: practically no chips and scratches;
  • just undergoing restoration;
  • eco-friendly material;
  • the cost varies depending on the type of wood and processing methods;
  • the material is easily sawn, cut, chipped off with special tools;
  • does not require careful and constant care
  • external aesthetics.

However, there are some significant disadvantages to keep in mind:

  • the cost in comparison with other materials is much higher;
  • the tree can be deformed under the influence of weight;
  • without the use of special coatings, it is not resistant to mold and fungus, corrosion;
  • wood cannot be called a moisture resistant material;
  • over time, the above aesthetic appearance can be significantly lost.

Wooden tables: range of shapes and sizes

It is important to decide in advance what shape and configuration the table requires. Professionals advise to pay attention to several points:

  • the table should fit well into the room where it is planned to be installed;
  • think about how many people will constantly be at this table and what it will be used for, calculate the size of the product from this parameter;
  • choose a folding version of the table if from time to time it will be needed for more people;
  • consider the age and capabilities of people (for example, a table for children will be different).

The table can be of different shapes. In addition to different shapes, the table can also have different supports under the tabletop itself, in other words, a different number of legs.

  • table with one leg - this type of installation is only suitable for a small product, it can be used, for example, for the manufacture of a children's table;
  • a table with two stable legs - this type of table is good for a rectangular or oval tabletop, but is rather uncomfortable and unstable for constant use in everyday life;
  • a table with four legs - this is the most common type, has the greatest (in comparison with the others) stability, suitable for both dining and writing, and a coffee table - is the most versatile type of this type of furniture.

In order to guess the most successful table size for any room, you should always take into account and keep in mind the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room itself and that part of it that is the maximum allowable for placing this piece of furniture, as well, of course, you should take into account the wishes of the owners.

Features of the assembly of wooden tables

There are several types of manual assembly of wooden tables.

  • o on dowels (attached with glue);
  • o on drawers (required on tables that are subject to periodic analysis);
  • o bolted (similar connections are used mainly for garden furniture).

Workshop and woodworking tools

  1. room

There are several characteristics that are necessary when organizing your own workshop:

  • work should be carried out under some kind of canopy, ideal: a garage or a barn (otherwise there will be too much dependence on the weather);
  1. you need to make a high-quality hood, otherwise the dust will constantly settle on the finished product and you will not achieve smooth lines or high-quality finishing of the material. In addition to dust, the hood allows you to eliminate the toxic smell of varnishes and wood paints.

Tools

  • an electric jigsaw gives greater accuracy in cutting wood than a saw;
  • swivel miter box facilitates corner cutting;
  • the grinder is universal in use and is clearly required for the manufacture of wooden furniture;
  • a hand mill is required when processing holes;
  • impregnating and other compounds.

Consumables for working with wood: varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

  • used motor oil is a great option for impregnation, but, unfortunately, is not suitable for a dining table;
  • it will be optimal to impregnate with a water-polymer emulsion twice, with a break of three to five days;
  • water-based acrylic varnishes outperform older furniture nitrocellulose varnishes;
  • PVA has been proven superior to bone carpentry glue.

Wood table options

  1. Wooden table with benches.
  • It is required to assemble the table cover: the boards are attached to the crossbars with self-tapping screws (it is important to use self-tapping screws as opposed to nails, since the latter contribute to the destruction of the wood surface).
  • After that, the legs are fixed to the crossbars, which must be strong and durable in order to withstand the weight of the table itself and the people sitting at it, thus, the minimum thickness will be 4 centimeters).
  • Then it is required to fix the side rails to the legs, on the basis of which the benches should be built, fastening them with bolts, and not with self-tapping screws, for greater strength.
  • Next, we fix the benches and proceed to the subsequent processing of furniture.

There are several drawbacks to this invention that must be kept in mind:

  • If a person on one side stands up abruptly, then all the products will literally fly towards the other.
  • It is also not very comfortable to sit at this type of table.

You can improve this design so that its quality becomes unsurpassed, but we invite you to evaluate the idea and the project!

  1. Pallet board table.

If you have boards of different sizes, colors and, possibly, even tree species at your disposal, you can make an interesting design out of them by organizing the elements in a special way: alternating, grading, creating your own logic for building boards. Among other things, also use rejected dry boards. The side parts of the pallet can act as a good frame, and the rest of the assembled tabletop. We recommend that you carry out this work in the yard or garage with an exhaust hood due to the large amount of dust settling everywhere.

  • For legs, use a beam with a thickness of more than five centimeters. Pre-prepare all the tools and parts you need for the job: the wood needs to be sanded exactly along the fibers with sandpaper, starting with coarse, and then moving on to finer grit, carefully removing dust. Next, you need to paint the boards with acrylic or oil paint, apply the desired stencils, symbols or paintings. After that, carefully coat with varnish, repeating this procedure several times and dry.
  • An attractive rustic style table should be assembled from pallets (also called wooden pallets). In the event that a non-aqueous varnish is used, it is enough to apply two to three layers, while in the other case it is required to apply more times, up to about ten. After completing the varnishing of the elements, it is worth moving on to the installation, which consists of several steps.
  • We fix the tabletop with planks, we firmly connect the boards to each other and fix them with self-tapping screws. It is mandatory to use a drill so that when using self-tapping screws the tree is not damaged. Then we coat the joints with glue, we process the entire countertop with special means that protect the tree from decay.
  • Last of all, we put the legs: we need to fasten them with self-tapping screws in order to learn the structure, we install jumpers at the bottom.
  1. Wooden table with glued top.

For a glued worktop, you need to take boards of the same width. For this experiment, you will need grooves (and therefore a milling machine). Grooves are already present on old floorboards, if the appearance of the table is unimportant and its purpose is not for housing, it is worth using them.

  • The boards need to be laid out on a completely flat surface, this is important for the further collection of the countertop.
  • Thoroughly coat the sidewalls with glue, join, avoiding gaps between the boards, then pull off the resulting invention with special tools. Leave the product to dry for one to three days. If the operation of gluing the new countertop was carried out correctly, then the cracks will not appear. If cracks appear, then the countertop will spread even more.
  • It is required to process the ends - first, trim them with a jigsaw, and then sand them. If there is no belt sanding machine, replace it with manual processing - sandpaper, first coarse, then medium grit. Then carefully lacquer the resulting furniture in several layers (about ten layers of varnish, after every third layer it is required to treat the surface with sandpaper and remove dust with a damp twig), in no case do not rush at this final stage, then installation of the product is required.
  • It is required to make massive L-shaped legs. Take boards with a thickness of at least two and a half centimeters such that their thickness matches. Connect them at a ninety degree angle.
  • On the boards to be joined, make a selection, coat the joint with wood glue, and then install the screws. After the glue dries, coat the parts with varnish and bring them together into the final composition.

Get creative and create a functional, practical and great looking table in your own home! Such a standard piece of furniture can create a certain mood in the premises, ennoble your home with a special comfort! Choose your material and embark on a new adventure - inventing your own table, which, perhaps, will become a messenger for generations to come! If you still doubt that you are capable of creating your own table, you can imagine new furniture in your head, and then give it to professionals for execution, and then, of course, also enjoy the resulting work of art!

Video: How to make a table with your own hands

Photo gallery: DIY tables made of wood





The kitchen table is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: at the sites and in the settlements of primitive people, large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, distributing and dining tables; on them the remnants of food and food were preserved. In this article, we will see how to make a kitchen table with your own hands completely at home. This will not only save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but will also provide an opportunity to acquire the initial carpentry skills, which in the future may turn out to be much more significant. In kitchen tables, the most common types of furniture connections are used, but its design forgives rather gross flaws in work. There are also great-looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and wrap a screw.

The table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: skills are needed here much less than fantasies, and failure will not spoil the entire interior. Samples of the original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite accessible for DIY, but first you need to feel the design and material at a basic level, which we will try to help the reader with.

There are at least 15 different ways to make a kitchen table, including artistic forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, we, firstly, will limit ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows you to get the desired result with the lowest costs of labor, money and time.

Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular or rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than a rectangular table for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to it and you need to serve it on the table over the shoulder of the person sitting. This already belongs to the category of parodies on the rules of good taste. Like, how should you tilt the plate when eating the soup: towards yourself or away from you? Answer: depending on what you want to pour over, yourself or a tablecloth. In addition, a round table in a small kitchen is stronger than a rectangular table of the same capacity, wedged into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.

Dimensions and ergonomics

The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the countertop. For people of average height, the table height of 750-760 mm is considered optimal. But with the size of the kitchen table in terms of the situation is more complicated.

The essence is in the very triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m. However, the ergonomics of the kitchen are much stronger than some deviation from these proportions, spoils the wedging of the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove, and rested her seductive forms on the cheek of the missus just when he raised the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table in the kitchen, especially economical layouts, smaller, if only it would be convenient for the eaters.

The minimum allowable size of a family kitchen table in terms of is considered to be 600x900 mm. For singles, let's say a table 450x750 mm, as in railway cars. In this case, it is also permissible to make it a wall-mounted folding one in the “microkitchen” or kitchen area of ​​​​a small-sized odnushka, see below. But the optimal dimensions of the kitchen tabletop are (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the complexion of users.

What to do

Traditional kitchen table - on the underframe pos. 1 in fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on the edge - the tsarg. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the legs of the table, and the tabletop is freely placed on them; those. its fastenings prevent only horizontal displacement. Such a kitchen-sized table is structurally simpler and stronger, but it is more difficult to bring it in / out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option - the sides are tightly fastened to the tabletop, and the legs are detachable. The countertop in this case needs a strong one and not from any suitable in the previous. case, material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with skid / carry out. Both of these options for the classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail below.

The table on the underframe can also be artistically designed, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not at all as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - turned shaped legs - perfectly turns out from commercially available railing balusters (see below). The curly washed down tsarg for a novice master who knows how to handle an electric jigsaw is not a problem. There remains a mow - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the tsargs. For her, you can rent a manual milling machine with a milling cutter of a profile you like, with it the work on aiming the moulding takes less than an hour plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of pruning.

No less common in kitchens are tables of a beam structure, pos. 3. They are also in the simplest version (see 2 options below) more attractive than tables with underframes. However, a well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills are required to complete them in a high-end design (item 4). Beam tables require more material consumption, but their undeniable advantage is that they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).

Tables with a load-bearing top without a base (pos. 5) are also very common in kitchens. In the factory version, this is perhaps the cheapest type of good quality kitchen tables. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming table top (see below) will cost about 2500 rubles, and assembly will take half an evening at most. But with a completely independent manufacture of such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.

Tables-books, they are tables-pedestals, pos. 6 initially made a splash due to its compactness when folded and the possibility of using it in half, but then there was a period of some disappointment. Firstly, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs are uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the latch of the swivel support was the simplest, from a pair of 50x20 bars attached with a gap equal to the thickness of the support to the underside of the table top. The outer faces of the bars were often removed on a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when the table was unfolded. However, if you accidentally pry the countertop with your knee, the latch is immediately released. Therefore, without a hodgepodge with meatballs and mashed potatoes on trousers and the floor, such tables could not do, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical lock turned out to be very complicated and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers improve this, in principle, very promising design, to which a special section will be further devoted in this publication.

Wall-mounted folding tables, (pos. 7), are occasionally found in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors, who are used to doing everything standing up, even sleeping on the carpet in front of the authorities, because. have all the shortcomings of book tables with little or no room for improvement. Serving tables (pos. 8) are used much more often on the farm, but this is a separate class of furniture with its own specific qualities and features of manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to mentioning them.

Technological subtleties and innovations

The kitchen table, firstly, is made of wood species or materials that are little or not at all subject to shrinkage during drying: oak, hornbeam, wenge, laminated chipboard, MDF. Ordinary commercial wood in the kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air in 5-7 years begins to warp and crack even when impregnated and under varnish. On the other hand, the size of the kitchen table is small. From this follow some features of its manufacture, ultimately allowing to simplify the work.

tabletop

This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen, the best option is to buy a finished postforming tabletop, they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled chipboard with rounded ribs, finished to look like wood or other material. The advantages of postforming in relation to the kitchen table are as follows:

Postforming is good technologically, for simplicity and speed of work. But unlike the example, tabletops cohesive from boards look more solid, the so-called. solid wood or furniture boards. Rallying boards into an array is a rather delicate and painstaking work; for this, special devices are used - clamps. If you have a desire to try your hand at making solid wood furniture, we offer a selection of videos:

How to assemble a furniture board with your own hands:

How to make a shield kitchen table top:

How to make a tabletop from the end cuts of a tree:

In the last video, the material is junk, but the appearance can be achieved - the cool oligarchs will salivate.

Dowels, confirmations and dowels

Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; just in case, we recall what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out together with the connected parts; practically non-drying chipboard is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are of little use, because. often break. Joints with wooden dowels are usually glued.

It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for a dowel connection. Tricks, like marking with bitten nails (item 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to redo an incorrectly marked dowel connection, both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to assemble their first products on furniture euroscrews - confirmations. This is more expensive, but does not require special skills, because. the hole for confirmation in both parts, compressed by a clamp, is drilled in one go, see fig.

Details made of laminated chipboard or dense thin-layer wood, connected by confirmers, last for many years. All the designs described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:

  • Use exactly furniture for wood, and not plumbing confirmations for plastic. They differ at first sight: in furniture slots for a hexagon, and in plumbing for a Phillips screwdriver.
  • The diameter of the body of the confirmation without thread when fastened to the end should be no more than 1/5-1/3 (extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
  • The height of the neck of the confirmation must correspond to the thickness of the main part.
  • The depth of the threaded part of the confirmat into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmat.
  • The hole (blind hole) for confirmation is drilled to its full length with a head.
  • The main drill should only be used with a twist drill for wood.
  • The main drill must be filled into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
  • Holes for confirmations should be drilled with a main drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmation on the thread.

In practice, it is not difficult for even a perfect “teapot” to fulfill these conditions:

  1. By the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the body of the confirmant without thread;
  2. There is a lot of information on the Internet about confirmations, according to which, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the drilling depth, you can determine the required size. It is better to immediately open the pictures on request "furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions";
  3. We are looking for a point of sale where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows exactly them;
  4. We say: "I need so much of such and such a size and a drill with a mandrel for them." They can offer a solid drill just for such a confirmation, it will be cheaper.

And a little more about dowels. It is best to put a detachable (freely imposed) countertop of a classic kitchen table on them. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a rounded head or dowels with a hat and various types of corrugation on the long recessed and short protruding parts are produced, see fig. on right. Thick worktops, approx. from 20 mm; the second - which are thinner.

Different tables

Classic

Classic tables on the underframe along with the legs (item 1 in the figure) are traditionally connected (assembled) on tongue-and-groove joints, which is rather complicated and time-consuming. A modern tool - a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, the section of the heads of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for head balusters, usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with dimensions in plan up to approx. 750x1500 mm to do with the connection with wood screws obliquely, pos. 3. In any case, the outer faces of the tsarg should be 1.5 cm from the outer surfaces of the leg caps, which is necessary for overall strength. The minimum allowable height of the kitchen table tsarg is 120 mm; thickness - 30 mm.

It is highly desirable to reinforce the oblique connection with self-tapping screws with diagonal ties in the corners (pos. 4, above) from the same board as the drawers. If the countertop is not supposed to be removed without extreme necessity, then the time-consuming putting it on the dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, cuts of the same board - crackers - are cut into the drawers and the tabletop is attached to them from the underside with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.

The tabletop of a classic table with detachable legs should be at least 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or 30 mm thick (solid wood). Worktops made of other materials, e.g. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe along with the legs are not applicable here. Due to the large difference between their thermal expansion modules and wood, the table will soon loosen.

Further, the drawers are attached to the countertop with long confirmations through the end, on the left in the figure, with gluing with carpentry glue or PVA. With the help of conventional wood screws, it is difficult to achieve accurate assembly, because. they are without a neck that holds the joint from displacement.

The next moment - the jibs in the corners (in the same place in the figure) are necessary, wooden mortise or ready-made steel invoices. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual way, on the right in fig.

Desk drawer

A drawer is a classic constructive module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the drawer of the table are taken the same as for the drawers of the nightstand, chest of drawers, cabinet. Since a large weight load is not foreseen in this case, and the smooth running of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension are not of great importance, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which the keyboard boards of computer tables go.

The device of a furniture box is shown on the left in fig. It is not necessary to assemble its tray in the old fashioned way on a box spike (on the right in the figure), you can use self-tapping screws in the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the side of the box is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fixed with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach with screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can lean on the front side of the table or go flush into it, it doesn't matter.

To install the drawer in the table, in the longitudinal front drawer, an opening is cut out according to the cross-sectional dimensions of the drawer tray, plus allowances on the sides for the guides (indicated in the specification for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed for attaching the guides. They are attached to the longitudinal sides from the inside with the help of backing bars. It is not necessary to fasten it to the tabletop, it will loosen. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the support boards, respectively. rail parts, push the box into place, that's all.

Very simple

A perfectly simple but good looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame of planks, see fig. on right. Its length, if the section of the tsarg is at least 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Tabletop - any weight up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second is transverse screeds made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already a beam.

Beam

Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables of a beam structure are given in fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The tabletop is structurally any, placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with a tabletop made of solid wood. A variant of its fastening from the underside without dowels on the cranial bars is shown in the inset in the center on the right.

In this product, the lower dressing (longitudinal screed) with a beveled through groove for the wedge may seem like a stumbling block to a beginner. In fact, everything is very simple: the bottom dressing is assembled on glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or board. How beam kitchen tables of this type are made, you can watch the following video:

Video: do-it-yourself table by components



The table, the drawings of which are below in the figure, has 2 features. First, all the material is a board with a width of 120 mm or more, timber is not used. The second is that only a tray is provided under the countertop, and it can also be glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the tabletop board and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but it is also easy to remove the countertop for cleaning. So is it rustic or modern, is it a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.

Without pedestal

Factory kitchen tables without table tops are usually produced with postforming worktops, pos. 1 in fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own under a wooden tabletop will face the following tricks.

First, a table-top is still needed, from a wooden bar from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that the mechanical stresses in the boards always flow to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 fastening points of the leg clip must be tense approximately the same, otherwise the fastening will loosen by itself. The strapping from the timber expands the stress fan in this place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace the continuous strapping with corner plates, there will be no sense from them.

The second is the material of the countertop. The standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (item 3) are designed for chipboard or dense thin-layered wood. If the countertop is made of pine, etc. layered rather soft wood, then the nests can, having broken the layers, crawl back already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone inadvertently pushes the table is close to 100%.

And the third - the clips of the legs themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without understands from "alternative" manufacturers, they are most often silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like such tables, it will be easier to buy ready-made with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than recruiting a kit for self-assembly at retail.

Books and cheburashki

The shortcomings of the table-book of the original design (see the figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. On fig. below is a drawing of the design of the book-table (conditionally shown is only one swivel support without the wings of the tabletop), eliminating them amateurishly, but effectively. Simply, the width of the swivel support is more than doubled compared to the wing span of the tabletop (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, it has become comfortable to sit as you like. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than the oblique one, and in order to raise the tabletop until the top bar of the support comes out of the simplest latch (see above), the knees must be pulled up so that it will be very uncomfortable. General stability is provided by the legs of the pedestal section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. Otherwise, the swivel supports must be brought down in height to the floor level.

A fundamentally similar solution was also used in the wall-mounted folding table (pos. 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging angle of the support already works for operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous. case: there are no contraindications for the implementation of that support in the form of a trapezium converging downwards.

A proprietary solution to the problems of a table-book is detachable legs stored in a cabinet. Putting them up is not much more troublesome than catching the latch on the table top with a swivel support. Such a table-book turns out, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no latch, because. it's just not needed.

The next step in the evolution of the book table is a design with a cabinet of greater width and 1 leg for each wing of the table top. The legs are half the size, so the whole table is cheaper. Its stability has only increased due to the expansion of the cabinet, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always lacking in the kitchen).

Consumers liked such kitchen tables so much that they were already given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably, remembering from the cartoon: "Here, we built, built, and finally built." Folding kitchen table, as it should be.

Alternative

If your kitchen is combined with the living room or you plan to combine them, then you don’t need to think about the kitchen table, it is better to replace it with a column. At the bar, you can not only drink, you can also eat on it. The meaning of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area generally goes beyond the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge into a functional triangle. Result? See fig. It is more convenient to work and dine in a 5-meter kitchenette in the bar counter - a separator of apartment zones than in an 8-9-meter Brezhnevka kitchen. Can't believe it? Let's count.

The kitchen table does not stand on its own. To land the eaters, you need to add 400 mm along the contour, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a table of 900x600 mm requires approx. 2.5 sq. m of "living space", and the table is 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 sq. m. It is very, very difficult to push such a thick slice into a kitchen of ordinary sizes without crushing the functional triangle softly. Here, even if two people sit at the counter from the side of the kitchen, the functional triangle is not violated, and the hostess is just a stone's throw away.

One of the famous culinary specialists once said: "The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract." Here he, of course, bent and bent. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and microwave is not found in our stomach, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, sometimes there comes a moment that requires fundamental changes.

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