In many old houses, the floor consists of boards that are nailed to the logs. Over time, such a floor begins to loosen and creak. You can often get rid of a nasty creak without parsing the boards.
Let's see why the floors creak?
To do this, you need to understand how the floor structure in your apartment is arranged. Popular designs are of two types.
- The first - consists of a floorboard laid on logs with a step of about 40 cm. The boards are fixed with nails.
- The second - on the logs lies the top layer of chipboard / plywood sheets.
Logs are bars about 4 centimeters thick, which are located horizontally, and serve as the basis for sheathing. They are not fixed to the base in any way, they are held by attaching to the skin. Logs create a technological indent from concrete, which allows the floor to breathe and insulate it.
Since the sheathing is nailed to the beams with ordinary nails, they become loose over time. Boards begin to sag and creak when walking. The lags themselves can also loosen up and walk with a shaker.
Squeak Elimination
You can remove the creak of wooden floors yourself and at no great cost.
The cheapest and most effective way is scrolling with self-tapping screws. To do this, you do not need to disassemble the floor. Old nails will need to be duplicated with strong self-tapping screws. Squeaks will go away for the most part if the lugs are in good condition and haven't cracked or moved out of place.
The radical way is to replace the floors. This is an expensive option, since you will have to change the floor throughout the apartment, but everything will be reliable and for a long time. Here the choice depends on your budget and preferences: make a new floor along the logs or replace only the floorboard, make a dry, semi-dry or wet screed. The screed will slightly increase the height of the ceilings, and you will need to change all the doors. But on the screed, you can easily put tiles, porcelain tiles, install heating. If you want to make a screed and maintain the current level of the floor, the missing thickness is compensated by a layer of expanded clay or extruded polystyrene foam, which will add additional heat and sound insulation. When installing a screed, you need to clarify what constant load the floor slabs in your house can withstand; in old houses it is at least 150 kg per sq. m.
Floor scrolling
We will not describe the process of replacing the floor, but we will tell you how to fix the creak even without removing the boards.
- Determine how far the floorboards are from the concrete slabs. To do this, drill a hole and measure the depth with a wire.
- Buy wood screws of the right length so that they go in with the hat and do not stick out.
- Find the places where the lags lie. They can be found by the nails in the floor - they go in rows along them. If the nails are not visible, dismantle the plinth and look at the logs through the gap along the wall, there is a special indent of about 1 centimeter.
- Drill a hole 1-2 mm smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.
- Tighten the screws with a screwdriver until it stops, slightly drowning the hat.
- Repeat this with each board, screwing it to all the joists.
- There is another option - to tighten the screws of the same length as the distance to the concrete. First you need to blunt their tip so that they do not destroy the concrete over time. In this case, they will serve as an additional support, and will not allow the boards to sag. This method also helps in places where scrolling does not remove the creak (for example, cracked lag).
It is undesirable to fasten logs to a concrete base, this will reduce sound insulation.
Video on eliminating the creak of wooden floors in Khrushchev:
Sometimes the cause of the creak lies in the friction of the boards among themselves. You can solve this problem by driving wooden wedges between them.
Now that we have eliminated the creak in the apartment, the floor needs to be leveled before laying the new flooring. This is best done in 2 layers of plywood with offset joints. Each sheet is screwed to the floorboard in 15 cm increments.
example). After repairing the floor from that article, 4 years have passed, and not a single squeak has appeared.
For a home master who does not have a building education and experience, information becomes relevant why a wooden floor creaks, usually after several years of operation. The reason is the lack of a stable geometry of the structure, the loosening of its individual elements, leading to a decrease in strength.
The design of a wooden floor (rough or floor covering) is completely maintainable, so you can get rid of the creak in any case, but using various technologies.
Before you remove the creak of a wooden floor in an apartment or house on your own, you need to understand the causes of sounds. A creak occurs due to the friction of individual structural elements with each other:
Finally, logs or beams can rot in separate areas, part of the boardwalk attached to them touches neighboring boards attached to sections of the bar that has retained the spatial geometry.
Important! If the floor creaks due to the boards bending underfoot (they touch each other), then a major overhaul (dismantling) of the boardwalk will be required. You will either have to reduce the step of the lag, or increase the thickness of the board.
There are several ways to get rid of creaking, depending on the purpose of the floor (groove board finish or subfloor edged board), its design and the hardware used (nail or self-tapping screw).
Solutions
To get rid of the creak of a wooden floor on your own, you need to restore its design according to the technology:
- any lumber can change geometry (drying, warping) with a change in humidity, therefore, it is necessary to treat with an antiseptic and periodically impregnate with the same liquid during operation;
- the logs must be rigidly fixed to the base, and the boards must be tightly pressed against them with self-tapping screws or nails with a screw notch;
- it is forbidden to use wooden wedges to level the log in the horizontal level; TWO polymer wedges with a corrugated surface should be used in the kit;
- the laying step of the lag should be calculated depending on the operational loads and the thickness of the board of the rough / finishing floor in order to avoid critical deflections;
- each board must be fastened with two self-tapping screws to one log to ensure a stable position in the transverse direction.
Advice! The most difficult option is the dismantling of the flooring and its re-laying after the revision of the lumber. In order not to open the floors completely to provide access to rotten bars, holes and hatches can be cut down.
In other words, all methods of getting rid of floorboard creaks come down to additional fixation of wooden elements to each other with self-tapping screws, pins or wedging. More rarely, the internal cavity is foamed to provide a large supporting surface, or sheet materials are laid on top of the plank flooring, distributing point loads evenly over its entire area.
Fixing with screws/anchors
If the home master does not know what to do to eliminate the creak, the method of additional fixation of the boards to the lags is most often intuitively applied. Such a scheme is suitable only for fully preserved logs with normal support on the base. If the logs hang on the boards (the wedges flew out, the lumber dried up) or partially rotted, this technology will not bring results.
In addition, when fixing the flooring elements, the features of the hardware should be taken into account:
- self-tapping screw with incomplete thread - presses the tongue to the lags without a gap, since the smooth part "falls" into the hole made by the threaded part of the hardware;
- self-tapping screw with full thread - rigidly fixes the position of the board relative to the log with an existing gap, since the engagement force is very high, both inside the wood of the log and the board.
Therefore, there are three ways to fix the boardwalk elements with self-tapping screws:
Important! The last two methods are less reliable than the first, so they are used in emergency cases.
It is impossible to drown the screw heads into hardwoods; it is necessary to make a "sink" with a countersink. To do this, you can use a similar self-tapping screw, cutting off the head with a hand engraver (1.5 - 2 cm in length) and making inclined notches like a milling cutter with the same tool.
Coating contraction
The floor boards are laid close to each other, have a thickness of 2 - 5 cm. Therefore, by compressing the dried material with each other in separate areas, it is possible to increase the rigidity of the horizontal structure and eliminate creaking at no additional cost. There are two methods for this:
Important! In both cases, existing nails or self-tapping screws must be removed from the boards prior to screeding to allow the deck members to move horizontally.
wedging
If the defective area is far from the wall, it is difficult to pull off the wooden floors in the previous way. Therefore, the floorboards are wedged in place according to the technology:
- the floorboard is processed with sandpaper;
- a rail of the desired width and length is selected, its lower edge is sharpened with a wedge;
- the rail is coated with PVA glue, driven in with a wooden mallet;
- the upper plane is processed by a planer, then polished.
As a result, the boards are tightly pressed against each other, the point applied loads are distributed over a large surface, the lamellas stop “walking”, the sounds disappear.
Foaming and squirting
With a sufficiently strong foundation on which the logs are laid, experts recommend the following way to eliminate creaking in the boardwalk:
- a through hole with a diameter of 5 - 6 mm is drilled in the board;
- through it, the internal cavity near the defective area is filled between the lags with mounting foam;
- after drying, the foam turns into a supporting pad, dramatically increasing the bearing area.
The technique is suitable for emergency cases, but does not have high reliability for a number of reasons:
- when loads are applied, the foam shrinks under the board, the creak returns after a while;
- filling closed cavities is fraught with bulging of the floor covering / subfloor outward, since it is necessary to leave at least 1/3 of the space for the secondary expansion of the foam when it hardens;
Important! Unlike home insulation, it is better to use household mounting foam in the floors. Its density is higher, and the thermal insulation characteristics in this case do not matter.
The injection method is more reliable when, instead of mounting foam, the cavity is filled with an adhesive composition that hardens in air (epoxy and polymer resins).
But this method is suitable for filling small cavities, since epoxy is quite expensive.
Plywood flooring, chipboard
Another, but with many limitations, way to eliminate the creak of a wooden floor inside a dwelling is sheet material flooring:
The main disadvantages of the technology are:
- if the plywood joint falls on a creaking board, this will only aggravate the situation;
- wood-based boards are expensive, increase the repair budget;
- plywood and chipboard are not facing materials, so additional decoration will be required.
Therefore, plywood flooring is rarely used to eliminate boardwalk creaking.
Dowel fastening
The grooved board is joined along the length in adjacent rows by locking joints. The edged board does not have a tongue and groove, so its geometry is more susceptible to changes with changes in humidity. Therefore, information is useful for the home master on how to make a dowel connection to correct the indicated defect:
- in adjacent boards, a blind hole is made at 45 degrees;
- a cylindrical wooden part - a dowel is coated with glue and hammered into this hole;
- the operation is repeated in the opposite direction, as in the lower diagram;
- after the glue dries, the dowels are cut along the plane of the board.
Important! The quality of the joint depends on the immobility of the boards relative to each other at the time of drilling.
Replacement of boards and lag
With significant physical wear, it is necessary to replace all the lumber so that the logs and boards do not creak:
This is the most expensive option, you will need to take out all the furniture from the room and dismantle the trim.
Preventing squeaking when laying a wooden floor
It is possible to avoid the occurrence of unpleasant sounds from the friction of wood against wood or metal at the stage of installing the boardwalk. To do this, it is enough to lay absorbent material on top of the log and apply the adjustable floor technology.
Noise isolation on lags
The home master will not have to disassemble the boardwalk if the logs are cut off from the edged / tongue-and-groove board:
At the same time, the acoustics of the ceiling will be further improved, and protection against getting wet will be provided.
Adjustable floor technology
Without experience, it is very difficult to figure out why a tongue-and-groove flooring board or subfloor flooring turned out to be creaky. Therefore, manufacturers produce an adjustable floor system, in which the likelihood of third-party sounds is reduced:
- logs are mounted on studs passed through the bar;
- they are carved in a single horizontal level;
- the protruding threaded part is cut off by the angle grinder.
Lumber absorbs moisture less, natural ventilation is provided, there is no rigid fixation of wood to concrete. Even if boards that are incorrectly fixed to the joists begin to creak, it is much easier to repair defective areas, since you do not need to open the entire floor.
Thus, the characteristic creak of the boardwalk can be eliminated with your own hands by additionally screwing in self-tapping screws, foaming the internal space under it, wedging, or other indicated methods.
Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and firms by mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.
Often moving on a wooden floor, you can hear the terrifying creak of the floorboards. It irritates others, distracts from important matters, excites, gets on the nerves, alarms. It will not be possible to quietly slip out of the house without disturbing its inhabitants. At night, the unexpected sound of creaking floorboards will wake up almost all the sleepy tenants of the apartment. Today we will tell you what to do if the wooden floor creaks.
What is a wood floor
First of all, let's understand what a wood flooring is.
On bars 150 cm long, 50 cm thick (logs), wooden floorboards are nailed. This is how floors were made in Soviet times. There is another option for wooden floors.
A draft floor is screwed onto the logs with self-tapping screws, which is plywood or boards. Under the logs, you can put small linings. On top of the leveled rough base, a finishing floor is laid in the form of parquet, laminate, solid board.
Why does the wood floor creak?
We often ask ourselves the question: “Why do wooden floors creak in the house?” Today we will try to find out.
Causes of the squeak:
How to fix creaky wood floors
First of all, you need to determine the cause by listening to which floorboard creaks.
But this can be done if you remove the laminate, linoleum and other fine flooring. Walk on the rough floor. If it does not creak, then you will have to re-lay the finishing floor. If the creak continues, we continue to look for creaky floorboards.
Entire groups of floorboards can also creak. They need to be removed and replaced with new ones. The lack of material, time, money sweeps aside this method of removing the squeak.
What to do if the wooden floor creaks without parsing it
Let's see the simplest means and methods for getting rid of board squeaks.
Rub the wax candle on the seams between wooden floorboards. This method will help stop the unpleasant sound.
Eliminate creaking in the apartment without disassembling the floor, pins will help for a long time. At an angle of 45 degrees at a distance of 50 cm from each other, drill holes with a diameter of 8 mm along the seam. Insert dowels into them, securing with adhesive. The pins will provide the floor with a stable and solid base.
So that wooden floors do not creak, it will help cementing loose lumber. From our weight, the boards under us sag, loosen. Cavities appear between the concrete floor and them. If they are filled, the creak will disappear.
We find a board that causes an unpleasant sound, drill a hole in it and pour liquid cement through it with a syringe.
In order for the cement to harden firmly, you need to pump it under the floor gradually, in portions. Carry out this action until the cement stops entering the hole. Top plaster or cover with mastic.
Strengthening the wooden floor so that it does not creak will also help pumping foam into the hole. It swells and spreads over an empty plane, filling it. As a result, the floor becomes hard and the squeak stops. But not for long. Moving along the floor, we act on the mounting foam, destroy it. The plane is again empty.
In a wooden house and in the country, you can use metal anchors if the base under the floor is concrete. The anchor is a hex bolt. Inserting it into the drilled floor, turn the dowel head. He begins to open the petals below, getting stuck firmly in the hole. The lags become sandwiched between the anchors. Unable to move, the wooden floorboards are also firmly fastened to the base.
This is a very reliable way, but expensive. Each anchor can withstand no more than 30 kg. To fix the entire floor, you need about 200 dowels, each of which costs more than 50 rubles. So calculate how much it will take to fix the floor with anchors!
You can get rid of the squeak of lumber by hammering wooden wedges in cracks between floorboards. To keep the wedges better, coat them with glue. Treat the wedges with an antiseptic. So that the wooden wedges do not move away from the boards, we drive in the wedges at a distance of 50-80 cm from each other. You can hammer the wedges further. To do this, with a chisel, you need to move the floorboards, lifting them. A wedge can be hammered into the gap between the boards to a depth of 3-5 mm.
If the wooden floor in the apartment creaks, you can pour graphite powder with talc into cracks. If the floor is old, made of rotten boards, then this method is ineffective.
But you can also use sealant based on sawdust, varnish and paint. Such a mixture will firmly connect the boards to each other. Sealant is sold in the store. Self-production of such a sealant is also possible. We mix the parts of the ingredients (4:1:1) and pour to the base of the floor.
If the floorboards of the wooden floor creak, then the cracks can close with a cord coated with PVA glue. We put such a cord between the cracks, and cover it with sawdust mixed with glue on top. Spread sawdust in cracks above floor level. When the glue dries, cut off these bulges.
If the floor is even, there are no swellings, there are no rotten boards, but the creak is still heard, covering wooden boards with plywood, which we fix at a distance of 15 cm from each other. The plywood must be thick, at least 12 cm. The plywood fastening points must fall on the logs.
The most profitable and easiest way is to fix the boards with self-tapping screws instead of nails. They just need to be screwed to the boards that are loosened.
How to scroll a wooden floor so that it does not creak
In order not to creak wooden floors, it is important to choose the right screws.
They should be threaded to the cap. Screwing such self-tapping screws into the board, we connect it with a log.
The gap between the bar and the floorboard will disappear, the lack of free space between the log and the board will not allow the floorboard to move, there will be no creaking.
If you take a self-tapping screw, where the thread is at a certain distance from the cap, then, already fastened to the lag, the board will still move along the surface of the self-tapping screw from the cap to the beginning of the thread, making nasty sounds.
But these methods can be used if the creak is insignificant. To better fix the floor, it is better to use plastic dowels with screws. In defective boards, deep holes are drilled along the diameter
dowel, going deep into the concrete base by 40 mm. Then dowels are inserted into it and screws are twisted.
If you knock on already tightened boards, you will hear a ringing loud sound; for unreinforced floorboards, the sound is deaf when knocking. By pulling the floor with self-tapping screws, you will eliminate the creaking of the floorboards. In the country, in the bath, you can freely use this method. In an apartment building, be careful not to damage the wiring of neighbors downstairs.
creaking floor wooden floor repair
Let's see how to pull off a wooden floor so that it doesn't creak.
If you decide to re-lay the wooden floor, then look through all the boards, replace the rotten ones where necessary, fix them with self-tapping screws, drowning the hats and covering the recesses with mastic.
If there are a lot of rotten boards, then the rough coating should be disassembled. Floors do not need to be dismantled immediately. First, we will lift 3-5 boards located near the wall, tear them off the floor. Let's look at the logs, in what condition they are.
Inspect the boards, replace the rotten ones. The first torn off board, replacing the logs, put in place.
We fix it, then tear off one board at a time, repairing and replacing logs and boards. Tearing off the board, on the other hand, we put the old one in place, fastening with screws with a log.
Number the boards so as not to confuse. Pay attention to the lags, if there are any cracked ones.
Replace the bars with new ones, try moving the lags. If they swing, moved, then they need to be secured with wedges.
The wedge is a bar sharpened at an angle of 30 degrees. Its length ranges from 30 to 40 cm, and its thickness from 30 to 60, depending on the size and thickness of the log.
Drive a wedge into the joists. Usually, two wedges are driven in on each side so that the logs hold firmly to the concrete base. Metal corners can also be used to fasten the lag. The boards need to be joined together with the help of metal brackets, driving them into logs and wedges.
If there are no staples, then you can use trimming boards, attaching them with screws to the logs. Instead of metal wedges, it is enough to take wooden spacers. It is best to take tongue-and-groove boards for flooring. You can fix the boards together with self-tapping screws, inserting them into the tree at an angle. To make the boards tightly fastened, you need to tap the board with a hammer.
Some masters, before laying the next board, coat the grooves with glue to tightly fasten the boards.
When laying the first board, do not forget to step back from the wall by 15-20 mm. Under the influence of temperature changes, moisture, the board can expand and rest against the wall, destroying, warping the entire floor structure, if there is no gap with the wall. Self-tapping screws near the wall will be closed with skirting boards.
How much does it cost to creak wooden floors
The price of eliminating the creak of wooden floors in Moscow is 200 rubles per square meter.
We told you about what to do if the wooden floor creaks. We hope that our tips will help you get rid of the annoying sound. We don't know which one you choose. But we believe that you will find the most effective one depending on your conditions, desires, opportunities and time.
The tree can be considered the second covering of the floor of a dwelling made by human hands (historical justice requires that the skins of slain animals be given primacy). But, despite such a venerable age, the wooden floor remains one of the most sought-after, durable and stylish floor coverings today.
Most often, the floor creaks due to the fact that the wood is drying out or an old nail has come out.
However, he, like all creations of nature and the products of human hands, is not eternal. In practice, this means that in order to extend its service life, you need to monitor its condition and make repairs in a timely manner. Moreover, the floor, like no other part of the house, is subjected to intense loads daily and hourly.
Why does the wood floor creak?
Repairing the floor with glue and a syringe.
The first sign that something is not right with the floor is the creak that appears in it. Many owners, out of frivolity, do not pay due attention to it, believing that they are dealing with the natural process of wood aging.
In part they are right. There may be several reasons for the appearance of a creak, but they all indicate structural problems with the floor. Among the most likely causes of creaking, the most common are: drying out of the boards or lag (as a result of which they decrease in size); loose nails; insufficient compensation gap between the floor boards and the wall or its absence.
The floor will creak even when, during its construction, too much step was taken between the lags or boards of insufficient thickness were laid. In both cases, the boards will sag, making an unpleasant squeaky sound. Also, the cause of the appearance of a creak can be fluctuations in the humidity of the air in the room and gross violations of the rules for operating the floor.
You can eliminate the creak by pouring polyurethane foam under the floor.
Correctly determining the cause of the floor creak is very important, since it depends on how to repair it. After all, the creak of the creak is different. For an experienced person, the creak from rubbing a board against a protruding nail is noticeably different from the creak of boards against logs or against each other.
In most cases, creaking occurs from poor-quality or loose fastening of the boards to the joists. At the same time, the boards begin to rub against the logs or against each other, making an unpleasant creak.
If lags become the cause of the creak, then in order to eliminate the cause, they need to be at least trimmed, and if their condition is too bad, then completely changed. In both of these cases, you can not do without opening the floor. But if the lags are in order and the floor creak is caused by other reasons, then you can try to eliminate it without dismantling the boards. There are several ways to do this.
Foam filling
This method can be used when the underground space is small, up to 9 cm. Mounting foam is released into the gap between the floorboards in an amount sufficient to fill the underground space with foam. The foam, expanding and solidifying, knits and fixes the boards, giving the floor additional rigidity.
But this method has two significant nuances. Firstly, polyurethane foam is not a cheap pleasure, so it requires significant financial costs. Secondly, this method can only be considered as a temporary measure. After all, during the operation of the floor repaired in this way, the mounting foam will condense, sag, contributing to the weakening of the overall rigidity of the floor. As soon as this happens, the creak will return.
Approximately the same result and for the same time can be obtained if, instead of mounting foam, talc or graphite powder is poured into the slots.
Punching wedges
You can eliminate the creak by knocking out wooden wedges between the floor boards.
To eliminate the creak from the friction of the boards among themselves, wooden wedges are used. To do this job you will need:
- hammer or mallet;
- doboynik.
To eliminate the creak, you need to drive wooden spacer wedges into the cracks between the boards. The wedges must first be made from thin wooden slats, each wedge will be 10-15 cm long. The wedges are installed in increments of 15-20 cm, and it is very important that the driven wedges do not protrude above the field level. So that over time the floorboards do not squeeze out the clogged wedges from the gap, they must be smeared with glue immediately before hammering in: carpentry or PVA.
If the targets between the boards are too small to drive wedges into them, you can alternatively use homemade putty by mixing sawdust with PVA glue immediately before work and filling the cracks with this mixture with a metal spatula.
Padding with self-tapping screws
Self-tapping screws are used if the floor creaks between the coating and the joists.
This method is used only when the place of the squeak is between the board and the joists. Here the main difficulty is to find the lags, especially if the boards are covered with a layer of paint. To find them, you will have to dismantle the floor skirting boards from both sides, and then, using long thin metal rods, mark their location. To do this, the rods need to be stuck into the floor in the center of the log, and if this is not possible due to the concrete base, then directly into the log, connecting them with a marking cord.
Self-tapping screws should be taken 2-3 cm less than the total thickness of the log and floor boards. To determine the desired length with a ruler, you need to measure the thickness of the log and the thickness of the boards and summarize the results. Using the cord as a guide, you need to screw 2-3 screws into each board closer to the center of the lag, while you need to drown them into the board as much as possible.
Old nails, if they sit tight and their caps do not protrude above the floor surface, can be left, otherwise it is better to remove them. This method is simple, cheap and effective, but it is only suitable for one case in 10, since the remaining 90% of floor squeaks occur in the passage areas.
Having started to strengthen the creaking boards with self-tapping screws, it is better not to be limited only to them and screw the self-tapping screws into all the floorboards.
After all, the nail enters the wood, splitting it. Initially, the split layers try to connect and hold the nail firmly. But over time, the fastening weakens, partly because the split areas lose their elasticity, partly because the nails themselves decrease in diameter. Self-tapping screws do not split, but are screwed into a layer of wood, so they are much more practical than nails in terms of durability and strength of the connection.
To perform this repair you will need:
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- nail puller;
- long thin metal rods (minimum 2);
- cord or fishing line;
- ruler.
Laying plywood or chipboard
The flooring of sheets of thick plywood on top of a wooden covering is made to eliminate creaking.
A good way to eliminate squeaks, which appeared due to insufficient thickness of the boards or a wide joist step, is the flooring over the wooden covering of plywood sheets or fiberboards. It can only be used if the floor surface is even. Plywood sheets must be taken at least 12 mm thick, since a thinner sheet will bend and press on the base of the boards when walking, thereby not eliminating the creaking problem.
To perform this floor repair method, you will need:
- hacksaw;
- drill;
- screwdriver or screwdriver.
Plywood or chipboard are laid on top of wooden boards and fastened to them with self-tapping screws in increments of 15-20 cm. At the same time, it is better to lay sheets of plywood or chipboard at an angle to the already laid boards. If all technological operations are performed correctly, then you can forget about problems with creaking for a long time.
How to eliminate floor creak from chipboard
First you need to accurately determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe floor that creaks. This area must be freed from furniture and the flooring removed from it. The site should be marked with chalk, drawing a square with sides of 15-20 cm on the floor, and then cut it out with a grinder or a circular saw. You can also use a jigsaw for this, but it will take longer to work.
A tape measure or ruler measures the distance from the base of the floor to the bottom of the chipboard. Then 4 wooden bars are cut out, 12-16 cm long and with a thickness equal to the measured distance minus 2-3 mm. The cut bars are driven under the chipboard in all 4 corners of the square, performing the function of a kind of mini-lag and eliminating possible deflections. Finally, you need to put the sawn piece of chipboard in place, fix it with self-tapping screws to the clogged wooden bars and lay the flooring. The floor in the place of such repair will not creak for a very long time.
To perform such a repair, you will need:
- grinder, circular saw or jigsaw;
- a hammer;
- drill;
- screwdriver or screwdriver.
The creak of each floorboard must be approached individually. Indeed, sometimes it is enough to drown the nails a little deeper to eliminate the cause of the creak. And it is not at all necessary to carry out an expensive bulkhead of the floor or a complete replacement of the floorboards if you see that the floor surface is in good condition, but an unpleasant creak has appeared in some places. In this case, it is quite possible to get by with cosmetic repairs, and, most importantly, the floor repaired in this way will reliably serve you for many more years.
Loading...