How to sheathe a house with wooden clapboard outside. How to sheathe a wooden house with clapboard outside. Construction of a single-layer crate











Today we will understand the topic - lining for the facade of the house. Let's talk about the varieties of this facing material, about the technology of its installation on the facade, about some of the nuances of the installation process. That is, we will give complete information that will help control the employees of the company you have chosen as a contractor.

The facade of the house, sheathed with wooden clapboard Source hi.decorexpro.com

Types of lining

Let's start with the fact that the lining itself is a material that has long been known. They began to use it in America when they built frame houses and sheathed them with boards, which were stacked with adjacent edges on top of each other. This material got its name because it was already used in Russia for lining wagons.

The modern market offers two main options for lining, made of wood (traditional version) and plastic (modern models). We will deal with wood, determining its positive and negative sides. But first, let's denote that many experts classify lining in the category of siding. The reason is the identity of the form and the same wall mounting technology. Although it must be noted that lining has been used in construction for a long time, and siding is relatively recent. In addition, there is a separate GOST for wooden lining. So, probably, it is not necessary to mix two concepts in one heap.

Source srub-dom-remont.ru

wooden variety

Let's start with a wooden lining for the exterior cladding of the house. The term “for outer skin” sounds a bit incorrect. That is, there is no material of this type only for exterior decoration. There are simply recommendations, for example, that finishing boards made of softwood are preferable to hardwood. Because they contain resin, which is an additional protective substance from natural exposure.

Therefore, it is better to divide the produced panels into models in which the design and shape are a distinctive feature. Today, manufacturers offer several options:

  • standard form, in which there is a chamfer on the side of the spike, either angular or rounded. It is she who on the wall creates a distinct appearance of the junction of two panels.
  • Softline. It has rounded bevels on both sides.
  • Calm. There is no chamfer near the spike. That is, the wall finished with this lining model looks like a flat surface without joints and joints.
  • landhouse. This is a thin plate without chamfers with a well-polished outer surface. The material is expensive, so it is not used on facades. Although no one forbids. In any case, there are no contraindications.

Source detinez.ru
  • Block house. In fact, this is the Calm model, only its outer surface is rounded, imitating a log. After such sheathing, even a brick house looks like a log house.
  • American. For you to understand what this model is, look at the photo below. Please note that her surface is made under the cone.

Wooden lining model "American" Source bg.decorexpro.com

For information, we denote that there is a two-sided lining. That is, it can be laid on either side, because both are the same. It cannot be installed on facades and in wet rooms, because there are no ventilation ducts in its design.

raw material

Now we will tell you what material the lining is made of for the exterior decoration of the house. It must be admitted that the choice is actually huge. But since the recommendation of experts is to use coniferous products, we will mainly talk about them.

Let's start with the cheapest options. And it's a pine tree. The low price does not mean that the quality of this finishing material is worse than that of the others. This is especially true for texture. The drawing of a pine is original, inherent only to it. So it will be difficult to confuse.

But it should be noted that pine lining has two rather serious disadvantages:

    very resin is released for a long time that spoils the appearance;

    low density wood, which leads to damage even with minor mechanical loads.

The second most important is the lining of spruce. It is stronger than pine, with well-performed processing, the surface becomes smooth. It is from it that manufacturers often make a block house.

Lining made of larch is a high strength finish Source kashpogroup.ru

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses - from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

And now two expensive options. Larch is a durable wood. And the longer it is used, the stronger it becomes. Colonies of harmful microorganisms never form on it, bugs and other insects do not eat it. The only downside is the very high price.

The next tree is cedar. By the way, it belongs to the pine group. It has two virtues:

    high strength;

    kind of pleasant smell, which is released due to the resin, it is he who repels mosquitoes from the house.

And just a few words about lining from hardwood. There is practically an endless assortment: beech, oak, alder, linden, a large number of exotic species. It should be noted that lining made of hardwood has a shorter service life and increased thermal conductivity.

Criterias of choice

Let's designate some purely technical points that must be taken into account when choosing a lining:

    Wood type. The best option is 1 grade.

    Drying technology. Better chamber than conveyor.

The technology of mounting lining on the facade

There are two ways of lining a house with clapboard: vertical and horizontal. Let's consider both. But first you need to talk about how to calculate the amount of material for the facade. The calculation itself is not complicated, because the standard mathematical ratio operates in it: the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe facade must be divided by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone cladding element.

The calculation is based on the dimensions of the lining Source hi.decorexpro.com

The first indicator is the length of the house multiplied by the height of the wall. In some cases, if there are many windows and doors on the facade, then their areas are subtracted from this value. But more often they don't. The second is the length of the lining multiplied by its width. And since the model range of the material is quite large, you will have to measure the dimensions of the selected panels.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Installation of lining horizontally

Regardless of which house is sheathed with clapboard, under the cladding it is necessary to build a crate of wooden slats or galvanized steel profiles, which are used for installing drywall. The second option is preferable, because the metal under the influence of changing humidity and temperature does not change its dimensional parameters, it will not lead or warp.

We must immediately make a reservation that a vertical frame is installed under the horizontally laid lining. The installation step of its elements depends on the length of the finishing panel. Usually it is 2.6; 2.7 or 3 m. That is, two joined panels must be connected on one profile. Therefore, first on the wall from any corner of the building lay the length of the lining. It is clear that not always the last element of the skin will fit completely. So it will be cut.

This is how the metal profile crate should be assembled Source tl.decoratex.biz

And then between them, with a step of 50-60 cm, vertical lines of intermediate profiles are applied. There are no strict standards here, so a 5 cm error is not a problem. The verticality of the lines provides a building plumb line.

Further, according to the applied marks, direct suspensions are installed in increments of 50-60 cm. They are attached to the wall with screws. If the house is brick or concrete, then holes are first drilled under the dowels, where the latter are driven with a hammer.

It must be immediately indicated that the crate should form a vertical plane, therefore it is necessary to set the installed profiles strictly not only vertically, but also in one plane. They do it like this:

    Install one profile at the edge of the facade, that is, in the corner of the house. It is strictly set vertically with a level and immediately attached to the hangers with self-tapping screws.

    Then to the lower and upper end of this profile tied strong threads.

    Their free end pull in the opposite corner of the house (facade).

    First pull top thread. Expose it horizontally, and then check it vertically. It is under this level that a profile is installed, which is attached to the suspension with its upper end.

    Then profile expose vertically, and the lower end is fixed to the lower straight suspension. It turns out that two profiles located on different edges of the facade form one plane.

    Between them pull two or three more threads, which again, purely visually, form the vertical plane of the skin.

    According to them expose intermediate elements of the crate.

Video description

Watch the video, which shows how to assemble the crate on the facade of the house:

If it is decided to insulate the house from the outside, then before the installation of the frame, it is necessary to lay the heat-insulating material. Usually these are either expanded polystyrene boards or mineral wool mats. The insulation is simply placed on straight hangers, pressing it tightly against the wall surface. Please note that the mineral wool will have to be additionally closed from the outside with a vapor barrier membrane.

So, everything is ready for the direct sheathing of the house with clapboard from the outside. You can start the process from below or from above from any corner of the structure. The main requirement is that the groove of the panel should look down, and the spike should look up. The panel is simply applied to the crate, aligned horizontally and fastened to it with self-tapping screws and cloves. Groove attachment point. As for just such an attachment, after installing the top row, the elements of which will be inserted with a spike, the caps of the fasteners will be closed with a spike. So nothing will be visible.

Fastening the lining to the elements of the crate with clamps Source hi.decoratex.biz

Today, manufacturers offer a special type of fasteners - clamps. A convenient and reliable fastener, with the help of which the assembly speed is increased. It is recommended to use it if the lining after some time will need to be dismantled without breaking the panels.

The assembly scheme is used differently. For example, they collect one row completely, then go to the top or bottom. Or they collect two or three panels, for example, the bottom row, then install 2-3 lining in the second, then the third row, then return to the first, continuing to fill it. That is, the masters use the option that is convenient for them.

And the finishing touches:

    plinth installation, which will cover the bottom edge of the bottom row.

    installation of corner elements.

Video description

How to fix the lining in the video:

Vertical skin

Finishing the facade of the house with a clapboard vertically practically does not differ from the previous technology. Different layout of the elements of the crate and the panels themselves. The first is installed horizontally, the second vertically.

But there is one very important nuance in this technology. It is not necessary to assemble panels so that several long horizontal seams form on the facade of the house. Therefore, the finishing elements are assembled in a checkerboard pattern, that is, with a length offset of half the panel. For example, the first panel is installed in one piece, the second is cut in half and one part is mounted next to the first. The next whole, then the half, and so on to the opposite corner of the house. The rest of the stacked ones are installed solid. Of course, under the roof, all panels will have to be adjusted in length.

House lined with clapboard vertically Source dysecal.bapelonu.ru.net

Price component

So, we figured out the installation process. I would like to devote a little space to information about the price of lining for the exterior cladding of the house. This facing material is sold by the piece, taking into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsheathing, and cubic meters. Therefore, consumers often face the problem of converting from one unit of measure to another.

The pricing is based on the type of wood used, so the average prices in Russia are:

    grade " Extra» - 33000-35000 rubles/m³;

    1-2 grade- 13000-15000 rubles / m³;

    3 grade- 8000 rubles / m³.

Of course, the cost of production will also depend on the dimensions of the panel. The larger they are, the higher the price. For example, lining 1-2 grades of pine with dimensions:

    12.5x90x1500 mm costs 13,000 rubles / m³;

    18x95x1500 mm - 25,000 rubles / m³.

Video description

Reasoning of a specialist on the topic of how much lining costs, in the video:

Conclusion on the topic

Among consumers and specialists there are fans of lining, there are also those who treat this finishing material with coolness. But in any case, it is still popular, especially among those who build frame-type houses, or try to modify the facade of an old house. Finishing this type is inexpensive, installation is simple. It is possible to carry out thermal insulation processes. The material itself can be painted, giving the house an original look, or coated with a colorless varnish, leaving the wood pattern unchanged.

02.12.2016 0 Comments

Everyone wants to live in a cozy, beautiful house. Therefore, thousands of our compatriots prefer to use lining. Finishing a house with clapboard has a number of advantages. Relatively inexpensive, durable and at the same time beautiful material will be a good choice for inhabitants of regions with different climates. It is important that it is not necessary to use the services of professionals, giving them a lot of money for their work. Each person can do the lining of the house with clapboard outside with their own hands - it is enough to study the theory and have a minimum set of tools.

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How to choose a lining?

Going to the store, decide in advance which lining you need - wooden or plastic. These types of lining have certain advantages and disadvantages. For example, plastic has a lower cost and does not dry out, which could cause cracks. Also, high humidity will not lead to the fact that the facade of your house will be decorated with mold spots. On the other hand, wood is better tolerated by low temperatures inherent in many regions of our country, and ultraviolet rays do not cause it to become brittle. Therefore, only you can make the final choice.

There are usually no problems with the choice of plastic lining - the manufacturing technology has long been verified, and the main thing here is not to make a mistake with the choice of manufacturer. With wood it's more difficult. It is advisable to buy material with a moisture content of not more than 10-15%. Otherwise, over time, it will dry out and cracks will appear. Try not to have knots on the lining - they not only spoil the appearance, but also often fall out. And the holes in the facade decoration will not add beauty to it.

What tools are useful?

When the material is selected and purchased in sufficient quantities, it's time to collect all the necessary tools. In order to successfully complete the job, you will need:

  • screwdriver;
  • drill;
  • saw;
  • mallet;
  • level;
  • screwdriver;
  • pliers;
  • marker.

As you can see, all materials can be purchased at any store or borrowed from friends. There is nothing highly specialized or worth a lot of money on the list. When all the necessary tools are collected, you can start lining the house with clapboard from the outside.

The sequence of operations for sheathing a house with clapboard

Before starting work, you need to know what the scheme of the future design looks like.

Scheme of the correct pie for lining the house with clapboard.

Preparatory work

As with any other construction work, before you start lining the house with clapboard, you need to prepare the foundation. If you are sheathing a wooden house, then make sure that there are no weak spots on it - affected by mold or rot. Otherwise, take action by treating the walls with a special antiseptic.

Regardless of the material of the walls, thoroughly clean them from dust and dirt. All cracks must be carefully caulked and covered over - even tiny cracks can cause serious heat loss in winter. And removing the lining to eliminate the gaps is a huge amount of unnecessary work.

The wall should be perfectly flat and as smooth as possible.

Let's take care of the insulation

AT residential areas are always humid. And moisture will inevitably, even through the smallest pores, partially seep into the street. And a layer of heat-insulating material is usually placed under the lining. If it gets wet, then its properties will drop sharply, and it itself can quickly become unusable.

That's why it is extremely important to ensure good ventilation and protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture. It is best to use roofing material for this - a durable and durable material. But it is not too cheap, and a lot of weight can cause some trouble during installation. So, you can also use thick construction polyethylene - less reliable, but cheaper and easier to install material.

Wooden bars are installed directly on the wall. The optimal distance between them is 1 meter, and the cross section of the bars is 2 × 2-3 × 3 centimeters. This will provide a gap between the wall and the heat-insulating material sufficient for ventilation. The selected material is attached to the bars. Make sure that there is also a gap at the bottom and top for ventilation. After that, we can assume that the vapor barrier has been successfully laid.

Working on the frame

The next important step is the frame. It is necessary for comfortable and easy installation of thermal insulation. When installing, it is best to use boards 3-4 centimeters thick and at least 10 centimeters wide. Boards are fixed vertically. The distance between them should correspond to the width of the insulation sheets, and ideally be 1-2 centimeters less. This will provide the most reliable fixation, and at the same time will not exert too much compression, which could lead to a significant deterioration in the thermal insulation qualities of the material.

The boards must be carefully leveled with a level - even small irregularities will be especially noticeable after clapboard lining. In addition, it is very important to choose high-quality boards. Never use high humidity material. When it dries, it can be seriously deformed, which will lead to the destruction of the lining or, at least, to the deterioration of the appearance of the house.

Laying thermal insulation

High-quality thermal insulation is especially important in our harsh climate. Any material can be used here, but most people prefer mineral wool, which is cheap, easy to install, and durable.

Laying starts from the bottom. Inserted between two boards, cotton wool sheets are securely fixed and do not need additional fastening. The next layer is laid directly on top of the previous one. Here it is very important to ensure that there are no gaps between the sheets - even a gap of half a centimeter can cause serious heat loss, especially on windy days.

Don't forget waterproofing

In order to reliably protect thermal insulation, which in most cases is afraid of moisture, from snow, rain, fog and simply high humidity, you need to take care of reliable waterproofing. It is best to use a special waterproofing film - it allows the materials to "breathe", but at the same time reliably protects it from moisture.

Installation does not take much time - the film is laid on top of the heat-insulating material and fixed on the boards with staples or nails. To ensure maximum reliability, it is advisable to make a small overlap (5-10 centimeters), and glue the joint with wide adhesive tape. Moreover, Lay the film with the smooth side inward, and the rough side outward.– many non-professionals do not know this.

Let's start upholstery

All preparatory work has been completed, and now the most important stage begins - lining the walls with clapboard.

It is advisable to prepare the lining in advance - adjust the material, and if necessary, cut it into pieces of a suitable length. The first board is mounted horizontally at the very bottom, with the groove up. Use a level to lay it perfectly even. It should be fixed directly on the frame. To do this, you can use both ordinary screws and kleimers. The second option is more troublesome, but if necessary, to carry out dismantling (to replace thermal insulation or for other reasons), the lining will definitely not be damaged.

Ways of fastening lining.


Next, the lining is installed from above so that the spike enters the groove. To completely eliminate the gaps, you need to use a mallet - light blows along the entire length will allow you to fit the lining as tightly as possible. At the joints, the lining must also be adjusted as tightly as possible so that the gaps are minimal. This applies to both joints on the walls, and at the corners, with perpendicular laying. Only with careful fitting will you ensure maximum attractiveness of the exterior decoration of the house.

Now, knowing how to sheathe a house with clapboard from the outside, you can do all the work without unnecessary difficulties.

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The construction of any building is completed interior decoration. The main criterion for the interior decoration of the house is to give it a well-groomed appearance and efficient operation. One of the most popular types today is the lining with eurolining.

The material is a thin board fixed around the perimeter of the room. Lining has been used for interior decoration for a long time. This type of interior decoration came to us from transport construction, when wooden panels were used for lining the wagons.

Material Properties

The lining has a number positive characteristics:

  1. high environmental friendliness of the product;
  2. pleasant appearance;
  3. resistance to high and low temperatures;
  4. increased;
  5. no temperature coefficient.

Lining is actively used when sheathing walls:

  • wooden houses, dachas, baths,
  • terraces, balconies,
  • as decoration for rooms
  • for a bright accent in wooden buildings.

With the right choice of finishing material, the durability of such a finish can reach thirty years.

For craftsmen with experience in home wall cladding, fastening a wide lining is not a difficult task. The cost per square meter of sheathing is extremely low, with the exception of special surface decoration.

The lining is monotonous in appearance, but experienced designers are always ready to give it a universal look and find original wall mounts.

Initially, only wood was used in the construction of houses, but modern trends and craftsmen come up with other materials for lining. Today, this type of finish is widely used in modern construction and repair.

This material has rightfully gained its popularity. thanks to economy. Construction markets and shops are overflowing with a wide range of lining for interior decoration.

Kinds

The main types of lining different material, from which they are made. Every year there are new products presented by such materials as:

  1. Aluminum, it is categorically not recommended for interior decoration due to the lack of resistance to high temperatures and an unpresentable appearance.
  2. PVC panels- will save on the purchase of material, but will lose in terms of durability.
  3. MDF- a rather pleasant material that easily fits into any interior. Wiring is easily hidden under MDF, and cleaning work is carried out.

Despite innovative technologies in construction, the traditional choice of many construction companies is still is a tree. Various types of wood are used, the most common are linden, cedar, ash, birch, and alder.

Which is better to choose?

For interior decoration of saunas, it is recommended to purchase hardwood, which does not allow moisture to pass through and does not release heat outside the room. with softwood finish will be filled with a pleasant aroma.

There is an opinion about the fragility of the tree and the influence of external factors on it. A few decades ago, one could agree with this opinion, but not today, when stores are overflowing with a huge selection of various wood care products.

When choosing the right wood, it is extremely her class is important:

  • Extra- has no defects and chips, is considered an ideal option for repairs;
  • BUT- does not have a core, knots and resin pockets are allowed on it (no more than two);
  • B- material with two knots, two pockets, one spot of contrasting paint and two cracks can be attributed;
  • C- already less suitable for finishing work, as it has a number of the above disadvantages.

Particularly popular There are 2 plating options:

  1. horizontal sheathing - fasteners are made from the ceiling to the floor, which prevents the ingress of debris and moisture;
  2. vertical sheathing is carried out from the corner, and on the reverse side of the board, the kleimer is placed in the groove, then attached to the crate.

How to sheathe a decorative clapboard "block house"?

Special attention should be paid on the decoration for the house - "block house". This finish is suitable for the living room, kitchen, hallway, and will be a great solution for the attic.

An important advantage will be that the block house technique allows the walls to breathe and create a pleasant microclimate for the inhabitants of the dwelling. This type of fastening will create improved sound insulation compared to the above methods.

Before performing work, the fittings and the amount of material are calculated. But an even more important process is to let the freshly purchased material lie down without packaging. about three days in the room where it will be installed.

Wall preparation

The panels are installed on dry and even walls, so the surface should not contain defects. The walls must be waterproofed with a special film or deep impregnation.

Without this procedure, the wood panels may not withstand the increased moisture content, and the work will have to be redone.

Areas with fungal lesions on the wall treated with an antiseptic. It is better to process all the walls with it. After thorough impregnation of the walls, they will become resistant to the negative effects of fire and mold. Impregnation with a water-repellent composition is required before starting such work.

Optionally, you can install additional materials for thermal and soundproof construction. Styrofoam or mineral slabs are installed as sound insulation.

Vapor barrier film can be purchased with the purchase of facing material. Work begins with covering the walls with a film, which in the future will perform the function of steam insulation.

Frame manufacturing

The frame is made in the following steps:

Wooden panels are heavy, so for high-quality sheathing, you will need to make a reliable frame.

For a frame using the block house technique, a wooden base is suitable. The frame must be made of rails, the distance between which does not exceed 65 cm.

Before installing the frame, you need to outline the places where sockets, switches and other electronics will be located. These marks are needed in order to make cutouts in the cladding before installation.

The bars can be fixed to the wall, both with nails and mounting strips. After completion of the work on the manufacture of the frame, you can start decorating in the style of a block house with your own hands.

See the video clip for mounting the crate:

Panel mounting

Used for accurate measurement plumb, square and level. To calculate how much the board will be spent, you need to make simple calculations: divide the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room by the area of ​​​​one board.

By calculating the area of ​​​​one board, it is easy to find out how much material will be needed to cover the entire surface. When there is a shortage of panels, they are used additional clamps to fix the problem.

Fastening of wooden panels begins on a pre-installed crate. The starting bar is installed from below, with indented up to 1 cm, such a procedure is done to actively ventilate the walls and avoid further deformation of the material. A similar indent is made at the top of the wall.

Block house is set only in the horizontal direction. Sometimes craftsmen choose a vertical installation, but this method has a lot of disadvantages.

Fastening to the frame is carried out using self-tapping screws at an angle of 30-45 degrees. A hole is made on the surface of the panel with a thin drill, and then a self-tapping screw is screwed into it.

The head of the self-tapping screw should not go deeper than 3 mm.

Next, the panels are gradually installed from the bottom up. When installing the panel, the spike should look up. Between themselves, the wood is connected with the help of spikes and grooves. If desired, corner joints are fastened with corners.

There are several ways to hide the heads of self-tapping screws:

  1. With the help of material left over from work.
  2. Corks are formed from scraps and fixed with PVA glue in the recesses. Uneven places are smoothed out with sandpaper.

  3. You can use "wooden paste" made from PVA glue and sawdust.
  4. The thick composition is poured into the holes. The disadvantage of the method is the possible mismatch in the color of the composition and wood.

  5. Special plugs, which can be bought at a hardware store, will easily close the bumps.
  6. Attached with PVA glue.

For detailed installation of panels, see the video:

Corner decoration

Making corners using the block house technique causes difficulty with self-plating.

You can pre-purchase "boats" for finishing the inner corners and elements specially designed for external corners. Finished plinths will be in close contact with the block house only at the top point, as a result of which the skin will have open gaps, and this is unacceptable.

Much more convenient to use planed timber 5x5. Its installation is carried out before the start of the sheathing. The block house is attached to the timbers and the finish will look much smoother and more professional. This method is effective for inside and outside corners.

The final stage is surface grinding, but such work should be done with caution. One awkward move can break the structure of the board.

How to accurately make corners, see this video:

Which coating to choose: paint or varnish?

  • alkyd;
  • acrylic;
  • linen.

Impregnation will significantly extend the service life of the Blockhouse, reduce the occurrence of cracks on the surface, and, most importantly, give the wood fire-resistant and bioprotective properties.

In the event that naturalness is an important point, and you want to preserve the appearance of the tree, varnishing will be an alternative to painting. The surface for varnish must be perfectly clean and free of any extraneous irregularities.

To work on the walls you will need a roller or a regular paint brush. Coating is made in several layers, except for the first tonic impregnation with stain.

Which of the coating methods to choose will depend on the desire of the owner of the premises. If he's into traditional design and wants to keep the natural look of his walls, he'll need a lacquer solution.

If the room is planned as a youth room or the walls should become a bright accent, of course, preference should be given.
If the finish is done at the highest level, the room will look noble and presentable.

The cost of installation of lining

Installation of wooden lining is a labor-intensive process, consisting of many operations: preparing the walls, installing the crate, attaching the material to the walls and final impregnation.

The detailed cost of the work looks like this:

  1. Assembly and preparation of the crate 180 rubles.
  2. Wind protection device 150 rubles.
  3. Covering structural elements with an antiseptic 30 rubles.
  4. Installation 400 rubles.
  5. Impregnation with varnish or paint 70 rubles.

For a more accurate answer to the question of the cost of work, you should contact the representatives of the construction company.

If the ecological purity of the material is more attractive for Europeans, then we prefer the delicate forest smell of wood - and the lining is made mainly from conifers. Yes, and the appearance of the home for many years will please the whole family, even if the lining requires care.

Having estimated all the pros and cons, many owners decide to do the process on their own. And indeed - not everything is so scary and inaccessible, as sometimes it seems from the outside!

How to sheathe a house with clapboard outside: a detailed briefing listing all the intermediate steps in front of you.

Buying lining

First, decide what end result you want to see. Like any lumber, lining has its own quality classes. And if you are going not to paint it, but to open it with varnish, take a more expensive sheathing: it does not have holes from fallen knots, and it is sold already polished. Otherwise, attention is drawn to the following:

  • degree of humidity. It should fluctuate between 6-15%. More "wet" will swell and deform, too dry will serve you much less than you expect;
  • there should be no blue, deathly pale or black dots on the surface of the boards: they say that the material is affected by a fungus;
  • individual elements must be extremely even. On this, firstly, the ease of installation and the absence of gaps depend, and secondly, the curvature indicates improper storage, and hence a deterioration in the quality of lumber.

Before sheathing

Before the onset of installation work, you need to make some more manipulations. Whether to sheathe the walls with insulation is a question that is considered taking into account the characteristics of a particular structure. If the walls are thick, and even isolated from the inside, from the side of the premises, then there is no need for this. But in most cases, such work is still done.

  • The facade is vapor-insulated. The material is fastened with brackets directly to the wall or narrow rails are mounted under the roof and near the ground, on which the insulator is nailed with a construction stapler. Foil, roofing felt or polyethylene are suitable as it. Holes are made in the vapor barrier at the top and bottom every 2 cm;
  • The crate is mounted under the lining. The step between the bars is from half a meter to one and a half. If you are going to sheathe the house horizontally, the slats are placed vertically (and vice versa). All planks are checked by level so that the lining lies as evenly as possible;
  • The step is not observed around openings - both windows and doors should be framed with slats;
  • Insulation is laid out between the guides of the crate. It is especially convenient to use a slab - it is cut into appropriate squares and fixed with tin washers;
  • From above, the wall is tightened with waterproofing. Its film is attached to the crate beam with a stapler.

Now your walls are completely ready for sheathing.

Installation of lining

First of all, the direction of sheathing is selected.

Vertical. Visually, it makes the house taller. In addition, there is an advantage that water will definitely not flow into such a skin if you incorrectly installed some element. However, vertical plating requires a wider board (not narrower than 8 si), otherwise the impression of excessive striping will be created. Installation in this case starts from any corner of the house.

The first board is scrupulously adjusted according to the level: the skew at the very beginning after the first meter, you will have to remove and do it all over again.

Horizontal. Here the work is done from the bottom up. When laying the first element, it will also be useful to use the level. The main condition is that each board must be laid with a spike down, and with a groove up - it is in this position that you are guaranteed from falling into the lining of precipitation and its decay.

If you skew the board, it will be difficult to rearrange it. Screws are dismantled much easier, they are easier to work with. However, as the lining shrinks, their hats can rise above the skin; You will need to periodically check and adjust them.

The installation process itself is very simple. The first board is installed extremely evenly and fixed in the chosen way on the crate.

The next element is driven into the groove of the previous one with a spike and fastened with clamps or screws.

And so on until the end of the wall. Regular level checks are essential. In order to somewhat facilitate control, you can pre-stretch the twine through each meter, verified when pulling. Then it will be possible to navigate by them, whether the boards are laid horizontally (vertically) enough.

The corners of the house are closed with corners. In the old days, they were made only in tin, now you can buy them from durable plastic, to match the wood. The platbands are removed from windows and doors before installation and returned to their place after completion of work.

Traditionally, lining is placed on the entire length of the wall. However, if there is not enough molding of the boards, the strip is grown with scraps, and the seam is then masked. Not everyone likes this approach - even in this case, you can offer a herringbone layout, since sheathing a house with clapboard from the outside in this way can be even better and with less loss of lumber. Joints, evenly and in a certain order placed along the wall, do not catch the eye, and even create some flavor.

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Do-it-yourself lining of the house outside

One of the best options for exterior decoration is clapboard cladding on the outside. Thanks to this material, your home will begin a new life, in a new guise. Although it differs from the interior, such a finish will not only give the building a beautiful appearance, but also improve sound and thermal insulation. But for the correct work, you need to know how to choose the right lining, and how the outer lining of the lining is performed.

Types of lining

First you need to study the varieties of this material. First of all, there are two types:

  • Plastic. It helps to create a high-quality coating that will last for many years, because it does not corrode. It should also be noted its high level of moisture resistance and low attention requirements, i. no need for additional care.
  • Wooden. It has a rather beautiful appearance. Good sound-proofing qualities and a low level of thermal conductivity are also noted.

Considering wooden samples in more detail, two subspecies can be distinguished, these are ordinary and eurolining. This division is caused by a large abundance of imports of the material, subject to its significant difference in quality and types of wood used in production.

It should also be noted that the material of foreign production is of higher quality, and some kind of geometric solution.

How to choose lining

Speaking about the choice of material for clapboard lining, you should pay attention to some factors that determine the quality of the product:

  • First of all, in the case of choosing a wooden lining, this is humidity. This indicator should not exceed 15%, if it is higher, then under the influence of the environment, after some time, a shrinkage process will occur, which in turn will have a great impact on the appearance (crevices will form, deformation will occur and the exterior finish will be damaged).
  • The next factor is the integrity of the material. In no case should you accept products with defects or any damage.
  • Also, for wooden products, it is necessary to pay attention to knots, their number should be minimal.

Exterior cladding of the house

The clapboard lining process itself is divided into seven main stages, each of which is quite important, so the following can be distinguished:

  • preparation of materials;
  • vapor barrier device;
  • preparation and installation of the frame;
  • heat and waterproofing of the surface;
  • installation of an additional frame;
  • sheathing material.

Each of the points must be treated as responsibly as possible, any neglect can adversely affect the final result. But let's go directly to work and consider each of the stages separately.

Preparation of materials

The first thing to start with is the preparation of materials for the work. Here is the minimum list of materials that will be needed:

  • Vapor barrier. For its arrangement, foil, polyethylene or roofing material can be used.
  • Wooden slats and boards. Needed for arranging the frame and fastening insulating materials.
  • Mineral wool boards are most often used as thermal insulation.
  • Waterproof film.
  • And lining for lining.

The calculation of the amount of each of the materials is carried out individually, depending on the surface area of ​​​​the finishing of which will be carried out.

Vapor barrier device

Going directly to the process, the vapor barrier device begins. As already mentioned, foil, polyethylene or roofing felt can serve as it.

The main tasks for which it is equipped include facade ventilation.

The device is carried out as follows:

  • Wooden slats are provided, which are vertically fixed.
  • The vapor barrier is directly attached to them.
  • After fixing, ventilation holes are equipped at the top and bottom of the coating.

Frame installation

The next step is the frame device. It is made by hand from boards. Lumber is used with a thickness of 4-5 centimeters and a width of 10 cm.

The boards are fastened vertically with their side to the wall with anchors. The distance between them depends on the size of the insulation, and should be less than 2-3 centimeters.

Thermal and waterproofing device

The next step is the installation of insulating materials.

The first is the fastening of thermal insulation. For its arrangement, mineral wool slabs 5 centimeters thick are used. The insulation is laid in 2 layers so that there are no gaps between them. In this case, each layer must be equipped taking into account the displacement of the joints, i.e. each slab of the second layer should lie centered on the joint of the first. Additional fastening is usually not required, since the material is sufficiently elastic and is able to hold itself between the frame boards.

After that, the waterproofing material is fixed. A special film is used as it, it does not have the ability to hold back steam, but it does not allow moisture to pass through. Its fastening is carried out using a construction stapler. At the same time, each segment of the film is overlapped with the previous one by at least 5 centimeters and is additionally glued with adhesive tape.

Important! By its structure, the film is double-sided, while one of the sides is smooth, the second is rough. For the most rational use, it is necessary to lay the smooth part to the insulation, while the rough part will be turned to the lining.

The device of the frame of the second level

After arranging the surface insulation, it is necessary to install an additional frame.

To create it, wooden slats 3-4 centimeters thick are nailed over the original base and, accordingly, onto the waterproofing.

This solution ensures good ventilation, and also prevents the appearance of moisture. Also, at the bottom of the structure, it is necessary to provide a metal mesh, in order to avoid the penetration of various kinds of insects and rodents under the skin.

Exterior lining

The time has come for the most significant and time-consuming stage of work in the implementation, and this is directly lining the house with clapboard from the outside. It is carried out as follows:

  • The preparation of the material is carried out, cutting the boards to the desired size.
  • The cladding process itself begins from the bottom, the first board is laid with the groove up. In the absence of the need for alignment, the material is fixed on the frame.
  • Next, the next board is laid, and driven into the groove with a hammer, after which additional fastening of the lining is also carried out.
  • Further consolidation is carried out in the same way.
  • When the fixing is completed, it is necessary to paint the surface, or cover it with a special solution.

This kind of impregnation will give the surface a more aesthetic appearance, and make it resistant to external influences.

Important! In the case of painting, the surface must first be sanded.

For some types of paint, for example, oil, it is necessary to pre-treat the surface, this is done by applying drying oil, preferably in 2 layers, while it will be necessary to wait for complete drying, and then continue to work.

Conclusion:

By itself, the process of lining the house with clapboard from the outside is quite laborious, and requires considerable effort. But despite this, the result cannot but rejoice. After watching the video on how the sheathing work is carried out, you will understand that everything is quite simple.

Clapboard lining outside the house: a step-by-step process

Clapboard sheathing on the outside of the house is a great choice for those who decide to improve the exterior of the house, as such a finish will allow you to change its appearance. In addition, the use of eurolining as sheathing material will improve the properties of insulation, in particular sound and heat.

This article will tell you not only how to sheathe a house with clapboard from the outside, but also help you choose the right material.

Types of panels by raw material

In total, there are two main types of lining, depending on the feedstock - wooden and PVC. It is possible to talk about which option should be preferred, and how plastic differs from wood, only by studying their features.

Features of plastic outer lining:

  • long service life (no decay process);
  • no need for care;
  • external plastic lining is not affected by the environment.

Features of wooden lining:

  • elegant design;
  • high levels of sound insulation;
  • thermal conductivity is low.

Clapboard made of wood

Lining made of wood, also known as lining for exterior decoration, can be divided into a simple version and eurolining. The separation takes place taking into account the use of estimated data for comparison with generally accepted standards.

The basics of choosing eurolining

Before you start choosing a material for sheathing, you should study a few rules:

  1. To avoid further deformation of the material, which occurs as a result of shrinkage and leads to the formation of cracks, you should choose the type of lining, the humidity of which will lie in the range from 10 to 15%;

Checking humidity with a moisture meter

Tip: Ask the seller to confirm the declared humidity - if he refuses, there is reason to think about the advisability of buying.

  1. Be sure to inspect the material for wormholes and foreign spots;
  2. The number of knots in the selected material should be minimal.

Note! Sheathing the house with clapboard on the outside should be made from a material created from coniferous species, since hardwoods (not counting aspen) are not suitable for external sheathing.

Conifers are preferred

Installation stages

  1. Vapor barrier fasteners;
  2. Installation of the frame itself;
  3. Installation of thermal insulation;
  4. Carrying out waterproofing;
  5. The construction of the frame of the second;
  6. Exterior lining .

Initially, you should choose a material that will act as a vapor barrier, usually roofing material, aluminum foil, or even ordinary plastic wrap is used for this purpose.

Upholstery with vapor barrier film

A prerequisite is the presence of ventilation of the facade of the house, for which the vapor barrier layer is nailed directly to the rails nailed to the wall. Reiki should be fixed at a distance of one meter, and their width should be approximately 2.5 centimeters. For additional ventilation, holes (20 mm) are made at the bottom and top between the slats.

Frame installation

The distance between the boards must be left less than the width of the insulation sheets by 1-2 centimeters.

Installation of thermal insulation

Thermal insulation placement is a further stage, which requires finishing the house with clapboard from the outside.

It happens through the following steps:

  • The installation of mineral wool layers occurs without gaps between them;
  • To achieve this, it is necessary to lay two layers of mineral wool at the same time, 50 mm thick;
  • The main feature of the masonry is that the joint of the lower plates is covered by the middle of the upper layer, while, due to the natural elasticity, no additional fasteners are required, which can be seen from the photo.

Installation of waterproofing

Attention! To obtain the ideal ratio, the hydrofilm should be laid with the smooth side towards the insulation.

Installing the frame under the finishing sheathing

According to the steps that the instruction above says, then you should start installing the second frame.

  • Laths should be nailed onto the boards of the first frame on top of the hydrofilm. Their thickness should be 2-3 cm, width 0.5 mm. This enables additional ventilation and removal of condensate on the hydrofilm;

Frame from a bar under the panels

  • To prevent rodents and insects from entering the space below, it should be clogged with a metal mesh.

Finishing the outer layer by lining

The final stage is the outer cladding of the walls with clapboard:

  • The process begins with the preparation of boards of the desired length, it should start from the bottom, while the starting board has grooves up, a prerequisite is the use of a level to ensure its even position;
  • After making sure that the board is fixed, you should attach it with nails (clamps). The workpiece must be leveled before fastening;

Installation on clamps - clamps

  • Next, the second sheet of lining is installed according to the standard groove-thorn system. In order for the spike of the upper board to fit snugly into the groove of the bottom, a wooden hammer should be used;
  • Having fixed the second board, you should insert the rest.

Some installation secrets are shown in the photo

After the lining from the outside has undergone complete installation, they proceed to the vertical fixation of the boards at the corners of the boards. Here, the obligatory moment is the presence of an overlap when one comes to the other.

Window casings are formed along a similar path, the pediment is most often sheathed by horizontally fixing the boards. Only after the completion of the entire plating process should you start painting.

An analogue of simple painting can be a coating with a special liquid, which acts as an impregnation for lining outside. It allows not only to protect the tree from any external influences, including insects, but also preserves the natural color of the wood. See also what characteristics a painted lining has.

When starting a simple painting, you should observe some nuances:

  1. The entire surface is pre-treated with a grinding machine. It requires the presence of fixed sandpaper (grain 40-25-80 or 120);
  2. In the case of using oil paint, it is necessary to apply drying oil in two layers, and apply the paint only after it has completely dried.

Results

Despite the fact that everyone can take advantage of the opportunity to sheathe a house with clapboard from the outside, this process requires certain physical and time costs. A great analogue of a wooden finish will be a plastic outer lining.

On our site you can find a large number of videos that allow you to take out some valuable tips and step-by-step instructions.

How to sheathe a house with clapboard outside?

In today's construction markets, a wide variety of materials for the exterior of the house, but lining has been in the greatest demand lately. This is due to the fact that this material is the most affordable and easy to install. Thanks to the lining, you can give any home a modern aesthetic look and protect it from the effects of the external environment. But in order for the dwelling to please with its comfort and warmth, you need to know how to sheathe the house with clapboard from the outside.

Exterior decoration of the walls of a frame house.

The main advantages of this finishing material:

  • long service life;
  • with high-quality processing, resistance to decay increases;
  • ease and simplicity in processing;
  • increases heat and sound insulation of the building.

Types and features of lining

Lining is divided into classes that reflect the quality of the product. Therefore, the higher the class, the better the product is processed, the less the presence of knots. But in general, the class determines the quality of the wood itself, since the board processing process is the same - sawing, drying.

When lining with a clapboard on the outside, it must be taken into account that each material made of wood becomes smaller in size during drying. There is a possibility that the boards after finishing will lose their adhesion to each other and a gap will form. To avoid such misunderstandings, the boards must be kiln dried.

All cladding material is divided into:

  • simple lining;
  • eurolining.

All the difference lies only in the processing of the material. Euro lining has its advantages, such as:

Lining fastening methods.

  • smooth surface;
  • excellent geometry;
  • little presence of natural moisture;
  • the grooves in the joint are much deeper.

Eurolining is very easy and quick to update by treating the surface of the boards with decorative wax. Due to these properties, it is considered one of the economical sheathing materials, in addition, more durable.

How to fix lining panels for exterior decoration?

A more aesthetic option is the sheathing of the house, when each of the boards is attached to the formwork using special nails or self-tapping screws. Fastening is done through a comb. As soon as the board is attached, a groove of the next board is put on its crest and the entire lining is mounted according to this principle.

There is one minus of fastening boards with nails and screws. Since the tree has the ability to dry out, fastener caps can stick out after shrinkage. But such a problem can be avoided by using special clamps for fastening. They are put on the comb and attached to the crate. Such fastening has its own advantage - the boards remain undamaged by nails, which means that the service life is extended.

Marking and installation of the frame. Before sheathing the house, the walls are marked and the frame is installed. It is also possible that the lining can be sewn directly directly to the walls, but their surface is rarely even, which is why a frame is needed.

The outer walls are sheathed with clapboard in a horizontal position, and the bars must be installed vertically.

The bars for the frame are nailed to the wall, maintaining a gap of 0.5-1.5 m in relation to each other. The optimal distance is 1 m. If the distance is too large, then during shrinkage the grooves may not match, the boards will jump out and deformation will occur. During sheathing, the plane, which is formed from the bars, must be located on the same level. To do this, they are installed using a level and, if necessary, pieces of slats are placed under them so that the future wall is even.

Sheathing the frame with lining boards

Clapboard lining is made from the bottom up, starting from any corners. The first board is nailed from below, after setting it in level and so that the spike looks up. The 2nd board is put on with a groove on the spike of the bottom board. During the installation of the 2nd board, it is necessary to press the wedges along both edges and the center as tightly as possible to the bottom board. The 2nd plank is attached using a pre-selected method. As mentioned above, you can use self-tapping screws, nails or kleimers. After fastening, the pegs are pulled out and the 3rd board is mounted in the same way.

When clapboard lining is performed, the spike must be placed up. This must be observed so that atmospheric precipitation does not fall into the grooves of the sheathing material and the process of decay does not occur.

When door and window openings are sheathed, a crate is arranged around them.

If the size of the sheathed facade does not allow the use of full-length boards, then they can be fixed in a joint, which is then decorated with a rail. Installation of lining can be done in a herringbone pattern or in a checkerboard pattern.

To provide additional thermal insulation, after installing the frame, insulation material can be laid between the bars. But this must be thought out in advance, since the interval between the bars should be equal to the size of the insulation. If insulation is to be laid, it is necessary to install ventilation ducts and vapor barrier.

Sheathing clapboard can also be made with plastic material. Plastic panels for finishing on the outside are mounted similarly to wooden material.

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of facing the house with wooden clapboard outside:

  • the use of material in conditions of sudden temperature changes;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • the ability to apply various variations in the design;
  • ease of installation, which allows even a layman to do the work;
  • long service life (if the material was installed with high quality and conscientiously);
  • the possibility of installing additional heat and vapor barrier, which helps to reduce heating costs in the cold season;
  • the ability to dismantle old panels and mount a new cladding in a short period.

Disadvantages of exterior decoration with wooden clapboard:

  • if the wood is not treated with a special compound, then the risk of ignition of the material increases;
  • natural material has natural flaws - cracks, knots, tarry discharge;
  • fungal formations, mold and darkening of wood;
  • the surface must be regularly treated with paints and varnishes.

But if in time, properly process and prepare the wood, many of the above problems can be avoided.

Protection of external lining made of wood

After installation, it is necessary to cover the wooden structures with special compounds.

When applying antiseptics, paints and varnishes and oils, the surface is protected from premature decay, darkening, and cracking.

When choosing paints and varnishes, it is necessary to pay attention to the chemical composition, the presence of various additional pigments and fillers.

Of great importance in any paintwork material is the presence of a film-forming substance, which plays a binding role for the entire substance. After applying paint to a wooden surface, a chemical reaction occurs. A film is formed on the surface, which performs protection and gives an aesthetic appearance. When choosing a paint or varnish for wooden facades, it is necessary to take into account weather conditions, atmospheric influence, temperature changes, and humidity conditions.

In order to sheathe a house with clapboard from the outside, you do not need to have special training and skills.

Montazh vagonki

How lining is done outside the house

Sheathing the house with clapboard outside is the most popular type of its decoration. This is due to the availability and simplicity of methods that allow you to give any design an absolutely finished look.

It is the protection of a wooden house from external factors that increases the life of any building for many years. The article will tell you how to properly sheathe a house with clapboard from the outside.

Types and features of lining

Before you sheathe the house outside with clapboard, you need to familiarize yourself with its types. For finishing the house, materials made of plastic and wood are used.

Advantages of wooden lining:

  • Lovely appearance, which allows you to create both interior decoration and beautifully sheathe the outside.
  • High degree of sound insulation.
  • Just the installation is done.
  • natural material, which is ideal for a country house.
  • Low thermal conductivity.

Clapboard for exterior cladding of the house is most often used plastic or vinyl.

Advantages of plastic material:

  • Durability. Proper installation protects the wooden structure from the rotting process.
  • Resistance to influence of different temperature.
  • Does not support combustion.
  • Weather resistant. Not subject to corrosion.
  • Simple and fast installation, this allows you to complete the construction in a short time, without involving specialists.
  • Ease of home care. The material does not require special processing, which is used for wood panels.
  • Presentable appearance which creates a glossy smooth surface. The building looks especially beautiful with the right color.
  • Water repellency. Under the influence of precipitation in the form of rain or snow, plastic does not deteriorate.
  • Affordable price.

The disadvantages of plastic include:

  • Very low resistance even to small mechanical stress and pressure, from impacts, dents can remain on the material.
  • On surfaces lined with plastic panels, decorative elements will not be able to be fixed qualitatively.

When choosing options for external finishing with clapboard, it is necessary to determine its type, depending on the shape of the material profile.

The lining can be:

  • A panel that has a simple shape, imitating a wooden beam.
  • Calm, has a fairly smooth surface, on which, after installation, grooves are practically not visible.
  • Eurolining, which has a tongue-and-groove connection and an enlarged spike, which increases its drainage and ventilation properties.
  • "American", the presence of a notch on the inside, allows you to simulate the laying of boards with an overlap.
  • Block house. These are panels that have a convex surface on the outside, in appearance resemble a log building.

The photo shows some types of panels.

Plastic lining panel

Tip: When choosing a material for the exterior cladding of a house, you need to pay attention to the use of lining specifically for external work. It is possible to distinguish them from the panels used indoors only by their qualitative characteristics, it is difficult to distinguish them in appearance.

How to make a crate for lining

Finishing the clapboard of the house outside begins with the installation of a crate for it. This design is a frame for attaching panels.

Facade PVC lining can be mounted on a crate made of wooden beams about 60 millimeters wide and about 27 millimeters thick. For the same purposes, a metal profile is also used.

By type of crate can be:

  • vertical.
  • Horizontal.
  • With counter-lattice device. This design is for:
  1. ensuring good ventilation of the space under the skin;
  2. placement of a layer of thermal insulation. It is used only when installing a wooden crate.

Tip: When choosing the right option, you should be guided by the location of the panels of the finishing material. When placing material elements horizontally, the crate is performed vertically and vice versa.

To fix the metal profile, tools are needed:

  • Scissors for cutting metal.
  • Screwdriver.
  • Building level.
  • Plumb.
  • Construction corner.
  • Roulette.
  • Electric impact drill.

The work instructions are as follows:

  • UD support profiles are installed.
  • The elements are fixed on the extreme sides, which are located perpendicular to the details of the crate.
  • Intermediate components of the structure are inserted and fixed.
  • Along the edges of door and window openings, parallel to them and along the perimeter of all protruding elements that are not to be sheathed, additional parts are installed.
  • The location of the fixing dowels must be provided in increments of 15 to 25 centimeters, which will ensure the reliability of fastening metal profiles to the base.

Tip: For an uneven wall, use substrates for fasteners. In this case, it is necessary to accurately determine their height. Otherwise, when attaching the profile, it will bend, and it will be impossible to align the part.

  • The main profiles of the crate are inserted into the guides with the ends and fixed at the edges with screws. It is best if these are special screws with a tip like a drill.
  • Additionally, you can use mounting hangers, which will give the profile, and as a result of the entire structure, greater rigidity.
  • The edges of the hangers are bent at an angle of 90 degrees and fastened at the profile installation points.
  • The profile itself is installed and fixed to the guides.
  • The bent wings of the suspensions are screwed.
  • The excess part of them, protruding above the profile, is cut off.

How to make a wooden crate for lining

For work you will need the following tools:

  • Hacksaw.
  • Electric jigsaw.
  • Electric drill.
  • Screwdriver.
  • Screwdrivers.
  • Chisel.
  • A hammer.
  • Building level.
  • Roulette.
  • Construction plumb lines.
  • Building corner.

Construction materials:

  • Beam, for the device of the crate.
  • Board for substrates.
  • Boards for the construction of the frame.
  • To fix the beam to the wall - screws and dowels.

Finishing the outside of the house with clapboard begins with marking the places for installing the extreme details of the frame.

Tip: During installation, you should carefully control the location of the bars or boards around the perimeter, the quality of the entire frame depends on this.

  • Substrates are used to level the surface or some parts are processed to form a single plane in one level. For example, the bars can be undermined or combed the base of the building. The choice of option is influenced by the type and size of the irregularities. If they are all over the wall, it is better to take substrates. To determine the distance of the beams from the wall, the highest point located on the surface is determined, and from it the position of the parts in the frame begins with a margin of up to three millimeters, which are necessary to level the unevenness of the beams themselves used in the crate.
  • With screws in increments of approximately 25 centimeters, the bars are fixed around the entire perimeter of the crate.
  • Door and window openings and protruding parts of the walls along the perimeter are upholstered with the same elements, which makes it possible to securely fix the edges of the cladding parts.
  • Mounted intermediate bars. At the same time, they should not be rigidly attached to the frame elements, especially if the wood is poorly dried. Rigid fixation of parts during thermal deformation or changes in humidity can cause a change in their position in the skin. This can disrupt the overall appearance and reduce the rigidity of the entire structure.
  • When using substrates, the edges of the beam are attached, and the correctness of its position is controlled by the level and plumb lines.

Tip: All wood used in the manufacture of crates should be treated with protective compounds with fire retardants and antiseptics, which will prevent the appearance of rot, fungi, protect against excessive moisture, and reduce the possibility of fire.

What are the advantages of ventilated facades

Ventilated PVC cladding has several important advantages.

These include:

  • Heat saving. When installing thermal insulation on external walls, the heat storage capacity increases significantly. Ventilated wall paneling on a building is an opportunity to create an energy-saving surface on it. In terms of energy consumption, residential buildings with such systems installed on them are approximately 30% more economical than those without such systems.
  • Long service life. Without repair, a ventilated facade can last up to 50 years, depending on the materials used. With a specially designed scheme for fastening the structure, thermal deformations are absorbed, which can appear during daily and seasonal fluctuations in atmospheric temperatures. This leads to internal stresses in the cladding material and load-bearing elements, which can cause cracks and even failure of the cladding.
  • Facades can be sheathed all year round. In this case, there is no need to use solutions and adhesives. External factors do not have any influence on the timing of the production of works.
  • This design well protects the building from dampness and harmful atmospheric aggression. The presence of an air gap is a fundamental difference from other types of building cladding. With the help of a ventilated facade, any moisture is removed, and in the presence of a pronounced aggressive environment, the hinged structure helps to create reliable protection that will counteract the negative factors that destroy the elements of the supporting structures of the building.
  • A wide variety of architectural forms and solutions of such facades.
  • They allow you to create a comfortable microclimate in the building with your own hands. The device of thermal insulation and the presence of an air ventilated gap contributes to an increase in the preservation of heat from the outer walls. In summer, the ventilated facade acts as a sun screen, reflecting most of the heat that enters the house, which reduces the load on air conditioners. In the cold season, heat is retained inside, reducing the load on the heating system.
  • The surface of the outer wall is leveled. Panels can be installed on the wall from:
  1. concrete;
  2. bricks (see Clapboard lining of brick walls without problems);
  3. tree;
  4. metal structures.

The surface does not need to be leveled. When installing a hinged ventilated facade system, brackets are used, which can vary in length.

  • Fireproof. Materials for the manufacture of ventilated facades do not burn or burn weakly, have a low ability to form smoke, and the toxicity of combustion products is low-hazard.
  • Environmentally friendly. There are no additives and components harmful to health.
  • Easy to dismantle. The design of hinged facades facilitates the dismantling of a certain part of the facade elements. By replacing the damaged element of the cladding, the consequences of an accident or other damage are easily eliminated.
  • Increased sound and noise insulation.

What are the ways of mounting lining

Finishing the house with clapboard on the outside is done in different ways of fastening the panels.

Methods for fastening lining panels

For this are used:

  • Kleimers. They are clamps having the form of a tongue-and-groove connection. In this case, the panel is securely pressed against the wall, the next part closes the groove of the previous one, which makes the fastener completely invisible. The kleimers themselves are fixed with special screws or nails, and are used for mounting lining made of wood or MDF.
  • Ordinary nails.
  • Decorative screws.
  • Staples, as for furniture upholstery. Are applied at installation of plastic lining. They are fastened with a special gun, the wall is sheathed very quickly.

In detail, how the lining of the house is done from the outside, considers the video in this article. After high-quality sheathing of the house with clapboard, it acquires a noble and attractive appearance, and additional protection from adverse external factors.

The facade of a residential building must be finished with decorative building material in order to be not only practical, but also beautiful. Special requirements are imposed on the coating according to building codes and regulations. Lining for exterior decoration is a modern and inexpensive material, thanks to which you can implement many design projects with your own hands. It is increasingly preferred by the owners of a private country house, where they live seasonally or permanently.

Clapboard house decoration looks stylish

The appearance of a building trimmed on the outside with clapboard does not need to be monitored regularly. The lining is not exposed to the adverse effects of weather conditions and is resistant to severe frosts.

Features and benefits of the material

If the plans are to sheathe housing with your own hands, then before purchasing, you need to familiarize yourself with the technical characteristics indicated by the manufacturer, the type of raw material from which the wooden lining is made, and also evaluate the appearance of the product. High-quality lining can be inexpensive, without visible external damage on the surface of the boards.

For finishing the house outside, noble woods such as ash, larch, oak are better suited. But the cost will be higher due to the excellent quality and durability of products.

Natural material for finishing a residential building outside is a guarantee of a good microclimate inside. At first glance, the trim panels attached to the outside are not related to the living space itself, but this is a misconception. A tree with an excess of moisture absorbs it, with a lack - gives it away. Approaching such a structure, you can feel the light aroma of oak or ash, which creates an aura of warmth and comfort.

It's nice to be in a house trimmed with clapboard

Among the main advantages of lining for finishing a wooden structure are:

  • safety;
  • high environmental performance;
  • heat and sound insulation;
  • good aesthetic data;
  • does not present difficulties in processing;
  • does not require regular care;
  • under the panels you can hide communications and wires.

You can sheathe a building with your own hands, you need to follow the technology (correctly and consistently lay each plank). It does not take much time and effort, after a week you can evaluate your efforts and start operating the house as before. A large number of tools are also not required - special nails and a hammer, as well as consumables (putties, glue, sandpaper).

Varieties of wood material

There are two broad categories of wood panels for exterior cladding: clapboard and eurolining. The first option is produced by domestic manufacturers, manufactured in accordance with GOST 8242-88. The usual lining has an affordable price, but the range cannot be called wide. The standard dimensions of the board are 150x6000 mm and should not exceed these parameters. The thickness varies and is in the range of 12-25 mm.

Suitable ordinary or eurolining

A foreign analogue is considered a higher quality building product. The buyer can choose a board of various configurations to produce the exterior finish of a wooden house. The building stores will offer the following types:

  • standard,
  • landhouse,
  • block house,
  • American.

The most popular and beautiful version of eurolining is a block house. This type has an affordable cost and is considered universal, it is used for indoor and outdoor work done by oneself or by a team of professionals.

How to choose lining for outdoor work

If you need to choose a budget option for sheathing, lining made of fir, spruce or pine is suitable. It is of high quality, light weight and long service life. Parameters for evaluating lining:

  • the highest grade has no defects on the surface (knots or roughness, resin pockets, cracks);
  • it is worth paying attention to the traces of the vital activity of insects;
  • the color should be light;
  • absence of putrefactive areas.

All defects are carefully considered by the buyer on the spot, by their number per unit area it is possible to confirm the grade of the board. The more unsightly areas, the cheaper the lining will cost to finish the outside. If there are no defects on the wood at all, it is an extra-class building material that is in demand among consumers.

High-quality wall paneling for house cladding outside

You need to purchase products by conducting preliminary calculations. It is better if the amount of raw materials is 10% more. Usually in a hardware store, the buyer is given the opportunity to independently choose from a large package of boards containing the least number of flaws. If there are small black stains or large areas of a similar shade on the surface of a wooden product, it most likely has been in a humid room for a long time or has been subjected to thermal stress. Failure to comply with the storage and drying technology adversely affects the operational properties of the product.

Wood processing before cladding

It is not worth starting covering the walls of the structure immediately after purchasing a sufficient amount of material. Be sure to impregnate the boards from the inside with a special antiseptic solution. This is a guarantee that after sheathing the house, wood-boring bugs will not start up under the decorative strips, mold and fungal deposits will not appear, because these factors significantly affect the durability of wood.

Bribes in this process and ease of installation. Mounting method - tongue-and-groove. It is advisable to build a crate of wooden beams - this will allow you to get a good result and perfectly smooth walls. Under the crate, if necessary, lay a heater.

Insulation and crate under the lining

The existing small holes from the knots can be repaired with your own hands, after the house is sheathed. For this purpose, a polymer type putty should be applied. After it hardens, it is necessary to carefully clean these places with medium grit sandpaper. If you take too rough material, distinct scratches will appear on the surface of the wood.

Upon completion of the stripping stage, it is necessary to apply impregnation of the desired shade to the outside of the lining. Lacquer will help to give a glossy shine (you can give preference to a colorless version; brown-golden warm colors are also in fashion). In addition to aesthetic data, coating with paint or varnish composition helps the material to be more resistant to adverse weather conditions and high humidity.

A house properly sheathed on the outside looks very attractive and has no flaws.

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