Since ancient times, skilled craftsmen have sought to equip the workplace as comfortably as possible and, in modern terms, ergonomically, which was considered the key not only to fast and efficient work, but also to safety. In this regard, the premises intended for repair and manual production were filled with all kinds of tables, racks and boxes, the original material for which was wood. Over time, the cheaper metal gradually replaced wood from the construction arena and began to be used for the manufacture of machine tools, metal furniture and various auxiliary equipment, especially relevant in a construction workshop. Since the goods offered by stores often do not meet the specified characteristics, and sometimes they are on a par with industrial equipment, in our article we will share simple tips and tell you how to make a wooden workbench with your own hands.
The main purpose and typical characteristics of the workbench
Regardless of its design features, the workbench is a desktop, necessarily characterized by massive dimensions and stability, and designed for processing structures and products with a wide variety of dimensions. When designing a carpentry workbench, it is important to remember that the dimensions of the processed products directly depend on the dimensions of the workbench, while processing products is practiced both manually and using power tools - a drill and an electric planer. A typical layout of a standard carpentry workbench consists of the following elements:
- Work surface, for the manufacture of which a massive board is used, the thickness of which is not less than 60 mm. For the manufacture of the lid, experts advise giving preference to hardwood, such as oak or beech, using which you do not have to periodically change the working surface of the workbench, due to the high wear resistance of the material.
- A vice designed to hold workpieces. They are mounted on the front surface of the cover. Massive workbenches provide for the installation of several vices, separately designed for fastening small and large parts. Large vices are made of wood, while when choosing a vice of small dimensions, it is better to give preference to metal structures.
- Bench supports are designed to increase the stability of the overall structure, which are connected by longitudinal strips. For their manufacture, it is desirable to use soft wood, linden or pine.
- In the space under the workbench, on supports, you can install drawers designed for tools and any other work accessories.
Joiner's workbench: types of design
When developing a workbench project, it is important to take into account its design features, whether it will be installed permanently in the workshop or will be represented by a mobile structure. If you have opted for a mobile design, the best solution would be to lighten it due to the material used, which should be thinner. The mobile workbench can also be modified with a collapsible table top as well as folding legs. In connection with the listed features, there are three types of workbenches:
- Mobile workbench designed for minor repairs and manipulations with wood blanks;
- Stationary workbench used for processing solid wood blanks and heavy boards. It is easy to manufacture, but "tied" to one place;
- A collapsible or “transforming workbench” is convenient with its collapsible design, which facilitates the process of replacing its individual parts, and also increases the mobility of the entire structure. You can learn how to make a retractable workbench in specialized manuals.
Carpentry or locksmith workbench: differences
In addition to the classification presented above, workbenches differ in their purpose. There are carpentry and locksmith workbenches. Since the creation of a metal workbench is fraught with a number of difficulties, in this guide we will tell you how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands.
Dimensions and location of the workbench
In the process of creating a workbench, it is important to choose the right location for it. It should be in close proximity to natural light sources, if any. Local light sources will also not be superfluous. We must not forget about the electrical outlets, which should also be close to the workbench. All wires located in the working area are preferably enclosed in a corrugated pipe or box.
Before proceeding with the construction of the workbench, experts recommend determining its final height. To do this, lower your hands down, after which place your palms parallel to the floor. The distance between the floor and the palms is the same desktop height that is most convenient for you. Since home-made workbenches are often designed for a single workplace, the table is 1.5 m long and 0.8 m wide.
How to make a workbench video
How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials
The selection of material for the manufacture of a workbench is an important stage of the whole work, which determines the final strength and stability of the structure being constructed. Before you make a carpenter's workbench, let's talk about the rational choice of materials needed to make it. According to experts, for the construction of a workbench, planed timber will be the best material, which is suitable for the manufacture of a frame frame and legs.
Ideal dimensions of planed timber:
- for legs - 100x70 mm;
- for jumpers - 100x50 mm;
For countertops, it is better to choose boards with a thickness of 5 cm, or a solid canvas, such as an old wooden door or chipboard, characterized by a laminated surface. It is important to know that it is better to give preference to hardwoods such as oak, maple and beech.
How to make a workbench table? Sequencing
The manufacture of a workbench includes several stages, the fundamental of which are:
- Base assembly;
- Tabletop installation;
- Installation of equipment on a workbench.
Base Assembly
The base, as a structural element of the workbench, is a wooden frame, the fastening of which is carried out in such a way that the structure meets all the requirements of rigidity and stability. For these purposes, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a horizontally located jumper between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, along the entire length of the structure, it is important to install a drawer. Both the jumpers and the tsarga are fixed at a distance of 40-50 cm from the floor. Subsequently, they can be used not only to strengthen the structure, but also to install shelves and drawers for improvised tools. When constructing the base, the bars are fixed by means of a tenon-groove connection, and in those places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. It is preferable to first prepare the grooves and spikes, according to the existing drawing, and only then glue the joints of the beams with wood glue.
If you're building a stationary workbench, one or more of the frame pieces can be attached to the wall, further strengthening the final structure.
Countertop fabrication and installation
- Thinking through the stages of manufacturing a countertop, we must not forget that it should be slightly larger than the base. From the previously prepared thick boards, a massive shield of the previously indicated dimensions is knocked together, for the fastening of which long nails are used, driven in from the inside of the boards. Used boards are pre-fitted to each other to prevent debris from entering the existing slots. For the installation of the table top, the use of materials for the manufacture of which pressed chips were used is excluded, since they do not meet the requirements for its stability. Several transverse bars are nailed to the tabletop, for which it is necessary to provide grooves in the base. To these jumpers, with the help of self-tapping screws, horizontally oriented rails are attached, which are needed to slide the drawers.
- The tabletop is bolted to the base. To do this, a recess is made in the upper part of the base bars, using a chisel, and holes are drilled in the tabletop for bolts, the heads of which are recessed in the lid by drilling recesses of the appropriate diameter in the tabletop. In order to avoid injuries from falling chips in the process of subsequent work, the countertop is polished several times and covered with drying oil.
Equipment installation
- A vise is attached to the installed tabletop, for the installation of which recesses in the end face of the tabletop should be provided. In the place where the vise is installed, plywood is attached to the underside of the countertop. When installing a vice, they are first applied, the place of their fastening is marked, and then fixed with nuts and bolts. Remember that the vise should not be located on the edge, which contributes to the displacement of gravity during operation.
- In addition to the vice, the classic workbench equipment is wooden clamps, a high-power stationary drill, certain types of turning equipment, and a milling element. In the conditions of a summer residence, it will also be useful to install a grinder and a circular. When installing equipment on a workbench, it is important to consider all the details of convenience and safety, as well as to check the strength of all fasteners. If the equipment is powered by an electrical network, it is important to correctly calculate the power of the equipment connected at the same time, as well as to correctly connect the connection itself.
How to design and make a universal workbench?
This article did not consider in detail the process of manufacturing a locksmith's workbench, and also does not explain how to make an iron workbench in view of the complexity of this process, however, we consider it necessary to consider the option of combining the locksmith's and carpentry's workbenches, which is especially important in the conditions of country houses and plots.
For this, the same workbench is made, as given in the instructions, however, the area of \u200b\u200bthe working surface is slightly increased. Sometimes this may require strengthening the base through the use of additional frame elements. When the countertop is installed, one half is covered with a sheet of thin stainless steel, which is fixed with self-tapping screws. Ideally, they cover not only the top of the countertop, but also its end elements.
Surely, every man in his youth at labor lessons more than once had to make a certain object made of wood, standing idle for more than one hour behind such a device.
And now, as an adult, and creating beautiful and practical woodwork, you are thinking about acquiring your own carpentry workbench. My advice to you is not to spend money, it is better to spend some personal time, getting a quality “workplace” in return.
So, what is a "carpenter's workbench"? It is stable, solid (often made of wood), the purpose of which lies in the processing of various products using manual and mechanized tools.
If you are seriously thinking about making a workbench, you should pay attention that there are several types of them:
Wood or metal?
First of all, before you start creating your own workbench, you should think about what material it will be made of. A wooden base would be appropriate if the intended work area does not take up much space.
The ideal option for a countertop would be laminated chipboard or pressed plywood.. For a stationary sample, a combination of planed wooden boards and metal is suitable.
Advice: an old unnecessary table, or a high-quality door made of solid canvas, is well suited for the base.
It is undesirable to make a workbench from metal, an acceptable compromise would be a wooden lid and a frame with metal cladding.
It is best to use not one or two vices, but as many as possible. With some, fix long boards without much effort, while others are suitable for attaching small parts.
Dimensions and drawing
Before we start manufacturing, it is necessary to think over its design and dimensions, purpose. For the manufacture of parts and assembly of the table, you will need to make a drawing. On it, with an accuracy of a millimeter, we indicate all the data. Further, you will often have to use the drawing in the process of manufacturing individual elements and when assembling the product.
Advice: when drawing up a drawing, be guided by the size of the countertop at 1600x800 and a height of 870 mm.
Tools
What set of tools will the master need:
Of course, the list may vary depending on what material you decide to choose for the base of the workbench, and what design it will be.
Reference: it is extremely important at the very beginning to determine the height of the workbench. An experienced master will be able to make a device with an adjustable height, the rest are advised to focus on the distance from the extreme point of the arm bent at the elbow to the floor.
How to do?
Manufacturing
This process takes place in several stages, the first of which is the base assembly. This is followed by the installation of countertops and the installation of all necessary equipment.
We prepare vertical supports and lintels, drill a through hole in a horizontally located bar. After we wind the nut with the washer on the bolt from the side of the groove. In the middle of the tabletop we install jumpers (there will be boxes between them), slats are attached to them. The workbench lid will be bolted on.
The base of the workbench is a wooden frame (it is recommended to use soft wood for their manufacture: linden or pine), the fastenings of which must meet all the requirements of rigidity and stability. That is why, between the legs of your desktop in a horizontal form, you should place a jumper, and install a drawer along the entire length. They must be fixed at a safe distance from the floor (50 cm). Such a margin of space can come in handy in the future, and you can easily place small shelves or drawers at the bottom of the workbench.
Then we move on to the step countertop constructions. This can be done with several boards, but in this case they must be carefully processed, cleared of debris and sawdust. Its dimensions must exceed the width and length of the base. This solution is for your convenience. So the working area can be easily cleaned. The tabletop is fixed to the boards located on the opposite side of the workbench being created. Installation of bars is simply impossible without several grooves (slots, joints) located at the base.
We cover the work surface created by us with a vise. To do this, we construct a plywood gasket from the wrong side, mark with a pencil or pen where the future holes will be. We drill them, attach a vise with nuts.
When we create stops, adjust them in height, place them at a sufficiently large distance from the vise. Such care will ensure reliability, and you will be sure that the workpieces will remain on the surface without falling to the floor.
We are also building, they can be fixed on the support of the bench space.
Let's start creating guide boxes, which will subsequently serve as a repository for all tools and large items. For them, we take away the back of the workbench, we make recesses.
We nail a couple of transverse bars to the base of the tabletop, for them it is premature to leave grooves. We attach the slats to the jumpers horizontally, they will serve for the process of sliding the boxes.
Attach the table top to the base with bolts.. We make recesses with a chisel, drill the indicated places, after which the bolts will appear there. It is necessary that their heads do not cause injuries, so they are securely hidden in the countertop.
Assembly
A certain number of vices will need to be attached to the structure. Under them, openings are prepared in advance, under which small plywood gaskets are subsequently fixed.
Be careful, place the vise on the same level to prevent destruction of the workbench.
We place the attachment points, after which we can start fixing the tools. Hardware is perfect for this.
Important: The vise should never be placed close to the corners of your table, otherwise there is a risk of the tool breaking.
Supporting elements are easy to do with your own hands. To do this, simply fix the finished stops, or drill small openings of a certain size.
Attention: it is not advisable to use bolts as stops, they can damage parts, and dowels are unreliable. Create rectangles, they will serve as an ideal and reliable fastener. Fasten the bar to the end of the workbench.
Consider the fact that rather heavy and massive things will subsequently be placed on the countertop, such as:
- wooden clamps;
- turning equipment;
- milling element;
- drill (stationary).
Therefore, it is so important to make sure that the fasteners are reliable and to think over all the options for convenience so that you do not have to regret the location of certain devices in the future.
Finishing
The finished product can be put in order with a grinder. Thereafter, we cover the entire surface of the desktop with drying oil as a protective and primer layer for paint. So you save yourself from getting splinters, reduce the risk of injury.
Finally, screw the corners (with bolts) at the base.
It would be more correct to install such a structure in the zone of natural light, that is, by the window. Take care of additional lighting of the workplace, also do not forget that there should be sockets next to the workbench, in such a situation an extension cord can “save” you. The most comfortable pastime at the workbench will be if the table is not too high, and the light falls from the left or from above.
A photo
Making furniture is an individual process. You may well end up with something beautiful and convenient:
Useful video
The step-by-step manufacturing process is described in detail in the following video:
Conclusion
Having appeared on the farm, it will become an indispensable assistant, and over time, you will see for yourself. Firstly, a do-it-yourself workbench is a significant money saver. Secondly, you, as a specialist, acquire practical skills. Thirdly, you will always have a convenient table “at hand” on which you can create interesting and useful household items.
In contact with
The garage is a multifunctional space. In it, you can install and repair cars, design and make various things and mechanisms with your own hands.
If a person likes to spend time in the garage, doing repair work, you need to properly equip your workplace. A workbench is a multifunctional desktop that can handle various materials, carry out locksmith, electromechanical and assembly work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can think of shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.
Types of workbenches
Workbenches are made for processing metal (locksmith) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For locksmith models, the countertop must necessarily be metal, since working with metal involves the use of engine oil and other liquids that can leave marks on a wooden surface.
Also, when processing metal parts, effort is often required, the use of a sharp tool, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal worktop.
Carpentry workbenches are designed to work with wood, so they are not as durable and functional as locksmith models.
Workbench design
If the design of the desktop in the garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully consider every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the table in the garage depends on this.
Standard models are often equipped with drawers, which can be made of wood or metal. Also, the design of the table can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for hanging tools, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.
Tool
Screwdriver.
Jigsaw for cutting plywood.
Bulgarian with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.
Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective devices for welding.
materials
Corner 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.
Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.
Corner 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.
Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.
Steel sheet for countertop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.
Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.
Wooden boards for countertops. Thickness 50 mm.
Plywood for the manufacture of drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15mm
Guides for drawers.
Screws for assembling plywood boxes.
Self-tapping screws for metal.
Anchor bolts.
Paint for wood and metal.
The workbench, which will be made from these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: the length of the table is 220 cm, the width is 75 cm.
The first step in the manufacture of a workbench is cutting the available material into elements. The profile pipe is intended for the manufacture of the frame. The steel corner is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.
The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. Also, this material will go to the brackets for attaching boxes and plywood.
Table drawers are made of plywood.
The second step is welding the power frame of the workbench. The elements of the countertop are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the countertop, it is required to weld a few more steel pipes after 40 cm, which will act as stiffeners.
Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power jumpers are welded between the legs, strengthening the structure.
After the base frame is ready, you can start welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. Frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.
The third step is to make a frame for the countertop. Two steel corners, 2200 mm long and two more corners 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards lie inside it.
The frame from the corner is laid on the frame of pipes and welded. It turns out a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.
The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, it remains to weld the crate of the panel for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle, for reinforcement. The toolbar is welded to the worktop.
The frame of the corners and pipes is ready. You can start strengthening the structure. Brackets are welded to the sidewalls of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Using these holes, the side and back walls of the plywood table will be attached to the metal frame of the workbench.
The fourth stage is the manufacture of drawers for the table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are twisted with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If the details are small, then 3 boxes can be built, if large - then 2. It all depends on personal preference.
You can place drawers on two sides of the table, you can mount pull-out structures on one half, and ordinary open shelves on the second.
After the drawers are assembled, metal strips with holes need to be welded between the sides of the drawer compartments. Slides for drawer guides will be attached to these holes on the inside.
The fifth stage is laying the boards in the tabletop frame. Boards with a thickness of 50 mm are cut into blanks of a certain length. If a long board is available, then you need three blanks 245 mm wide and 2190 mm long. If there are no long boards available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 blanks 740 mm long.
Before laying the wood in the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.
Then it is mandatory to paint the entire metal structure of the workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weatherproof and anti-corrosive coating option. Be especially careful when painting welding seams. Drops of metal and irregularities are recommended to be thoroughly cleaned before painting. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.
After the structure is dry, you can start laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that the tree tends to expand and shrink with a change in temperature and humidity. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will make it easier to lay the metal sheet on top of the wood. Boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
The sixth stage is the fastening of the upper steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach the steel sheet with hidden self-tapping screws to the wooden planks. Previously, the metal must be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paint coating, is easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal countertop with the same paint that covered the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time, the paint may scratch and the table will not look too new.
The last step is to install the boxes on the rails and fasten the plywood to the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called the finishing of the workbench. After work with plywood is over, it must be coated with a composition that will protect the material from environmental influences. Also, do not forget about the design of the power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, to which the necessary things will be hung.
In order to make it convenient to work at the workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bending stand to the power shield. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the right place.
Video - The process of making a workbench
Installing a vice on a locksmith's workbench
A vice is an indispensable attribute of a locksmith's workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool weighing several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket between the metal of the table and the tool, 1 cm thick. It is required to drill holes for the anchor bolts in the gasket. Then, in the same places, drill holes in the countertop of the same size. The whole structure is fastened with anchor bolts.
Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design
- If the area of \u200b\u200bthe garage is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But, it is worth knowing that the whole structure must be stable, not sway or budge with little effort.
- The workplace should be organized in such a way that nothing interferes with a person. When working with a vise, all unnecessary tools should be removed from the countertop.
- The corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp and have cutting edges.
- After repair work behind the workbench, you need to clean the workplace from metal chips, oil drops and other materials.
- If a homemade workbench is made correctly, then it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.
Shield plywood
Video - Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage
If the blacksmith's main tools are the hammer and the anvil, then for the carpenter there is nothing "kinder" than his workbench. It is he who for people who work with wood can at the same time be a cutting platform and an assembly table, an emphasis and a stand, a device for storing tools and even, if you like, a small carpentry machine, and sometimes a means of earning money. This article tells how to make carpentry tables with your own hands. The instructions, photographs and drawing presented in it will help to mount this design even for a beginner.
Osya FORUMHOUSE member
First of all, after building a workshop, you need to make a table for yourself. A table like a workbench, in fact. This is a table for work - fitting, assembling small things made of wood (stools, shelves, etc.) I will call it an assembly table.
In fact, the second name of the workbench is "assembly". But, as you already understood, its purpose goes far beyond assembly operations. Therefore, the design of a multifunctional workbench in a carpentry can be quite intricate (see the drawing below), and its development (in the absence of experience) can be given as much time as it takes to design the carpentry shop itself.
General description of the carpentry workbench
At the heart of any carpentry workbench, regardless of the number of operations that are supposed to be performed with it, there is always an ordinary wooden table. It is on it that the master will carpentry, drill parts, process surfaces, assemble wooden trinkets into one complex structure and surprise others with his skills.
A good massive table is the foundation. And everything else - a vice, clamps, boxes with tools and fasteners - all these are the invariable attributes of the most useful carpentry workshop.
Workbench project
To make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, you must first understand its parameters, which are optimal for you.
The first and most important thing to pay attention to when developing a project for a future workbench is its height. After all, he will have to work for a long time. And you can get tired, standing behind a workbench that is too high or too low, in a jiffy.
The dimensions of the workbench for work are chosen in such a way that it is possible to work standing upright and not slouch. For a person of average height, the height of the table should be within 70 ... 90 cm. But it is better to focus on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is at the level of your lowered hands. When a few centimeters are added to this height (the thickness of the workbench lid), you will realize that working standing at such a table is a pleasure.
The optimal height of the carpentry table for standing work for a person of average height is 70-90 cm.
The cover of the workbench, as well as the work surface, is best made from solid wood or plywood. There are people who use chip materials, light chipboard sheets, etc. for these purposes. We strongly do not recommend that you take an example from them. This is a bad project - after all, the loads on the surface of the structure can be quite noticeable, and the particle board in such conditions will quickly fail.
Osya FORUMHOUSE member
5 years ago, I received 2 sheets of plywood as a gift from a neighbor. It was decided to use it in the construction of a workbench. The size of the workbench was determined immediately - it was a pity to cut such a sheet. Experience has shown that there are no extra centimeters at the table. The height was determined by the height of the palms from the floor and amounted to 850 mm.
Ideally, a homemade workbench should have a special tray on the lid for storing tools and wood blanks involved in the work, as well as special holes (nests) for wedges and combs. With the help of wedges and (or) combs, parts and workpieces will be fixed on the surface of the table. It is on the cover that auxiliary clamps (vises) should be mounted to fix the processed lumber.
The dimensions of the workbench may vary depending on the dimensions of your workshop. But, as practice shows, the optimal dimensions of the cover are equal - 700 mm wide and 2000 mm long.
The supports (legs) of the workbench can be made from a wooden beam 120 * 120 mm, no more. This will be quite enough to ensure that the structure is stable and does not loosen under the influence of brute physical force.
Workbench installation
As practice shows, making a workbench is not difficult. Mounting a workbench is no different from assembling an ordinary wooden table. Vertical supports are fastened together using vertical boards and self-tapping screws. The work surface should also be fixed to the supports using self-tapping screws.
When assembling a workbench, you should avoid using nails to connect parts. Indeed, later this can lead to a rapid loosening of the workbench and even to a distortion of its supporting frame.
In order to save space in the carpentry workshop, some craftsmen make a homemade workbench folding. It is attached to the wall. This type of installation assumes that carpentry work will be performed only when necessary.
CartmanSr FORUMHOUSE member
In the past, in cramped conditions, I had a workbench - a laminated MDF board 24 mm thick, with dimensions of 1200x2200. It had small modifications, such as: holes and grooves for fastening a hand-held milling cutter and a circular saw, a flush-mounted metal frame with threaded holes for fastening rulers, and mustache nuts from the bottom, located at the attachment points of a hand planer and a drilling machine from a drill with a rocker arm. The tabletop was attached to the wall on three hinges. During non-working hours, it rose vertically and was fixed on the wall. Under the board, also on hinges, there are two triangles from the same plate. She used to work on them.
Such a design is an excellent way out of a situation in which the interior space of the workshop is very limited. But such a carpentry table does not withstand intense loads, and it can be made independently only in exceptional cases.
After you mount the frame and the work surface of the product, a simple carpentry table can be considered ready. But in order for it to turn into a full-fledged workbench and start carpentry, its functionality needs to be slightly expanded by supplementing the design with specialized equipment.
Given the special specifics of the activity, the carpenter's desktop must be equipped with appropriate equipment. And if the necessary tools are always at hand, then this is an excellent indicator. And the structural elements of the workbench itself will help you correctly position the fixtures, fasteners and power tools.
Rear and front clamps
Rear and side (front) screw clamps are the elements without which no workbench simply can fulfill its main purpose. Therefore, this part of the structure should be built first.
The rear clamp is designed to fix lumber during planing. As shown in the diagram, its vise pads move along the front edge of the workbench, allowing you to securely fix the workpiece with the help of lead screws.
The side screw clamp (which, due to its special location, is called the front clamp by many) has the same purpose as the rear clamp. And these elements differ from each other only in their location. Here are the drawings of the carpentry table for its self-production. FORUMHOUSE member
The fact of the matter is that in the design of the workbench, the lower shelf is necessary (especially on a mobile workbench). The tool is used a lot, there is nowhere to put it on the street during work. Yes, and in the workshop it is also inconvenient - climbing back and forth on cabinets and shelves. Fold the same tool 10 times per hour...
The basement can be adapted to store power tools. To increase convenience, you can install cabinets and shelves for small parts, fixtures and hand tools here.
Having made a workbench that has all of the listed elements, you can begin your carpentry activities. In the process of further work, you may need additional devices. But about what options to apply and what elements to add, each master will be able to guess for himself.
About from which you can subsequently make various products on your carpentry workbench, you can learn from our previous article. You can get acquainted with practical ideas regarding, in the appropriate section of our forum. Any visitor to FORUMHOUSE can get acquainted with by visiting a special topic created for discussions.
The carpenter's workbench is the cornerstone of the woodworker's workshop. It allows you to competently organize the workspace, increase productivity and improve the quality of work, regardless of whether you are an adherent of a manual or electromechanical tool. In this article we will tell you how to make a classic wooden workbench with your own hands.
About carpentry workbenches
The device and purpose of the workbench
A carpenter's workbench is a workbench for manual and mechanical processing of wooden products. The design and ergonomics of a classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and perform basic carpentry operations with maximum convenience: make wooden parts, assemble structures, cover them with finishing compounds. The traditional carpenter's table is designed to work with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. For processing longer pieces, a carpenter's workbench is used.
The carpentry table consists of a workbench (cover) and a workbench (bearing frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.
There are holes in the table top and wooden vise jaws. They are designed to install clamps and stops of various sections and heights.
Having placed the stops in the desired configuration, a part is placed between them and pressed with a screw vise mechanism. Thus, the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness of the wooden part, use a stop of the appropriate height, which will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.
How to choose the optimal workbench height?
The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. The optimal height of the table is selected based on the growth of the master. If, standing at the workbench, the palms freely rest against its lid, then the size is chosen correctly. Behind such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.
What materials are best to make a structure?
The carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to heavy loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are provided not only by the features of fasteners, but also the type of materials used.
Coniferous wood is traditionally used for the manufacture of the base. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the workbench must be dry (moisture content of about 12%) without knots and other defects.
About making a bench cover
Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to purchase a ready-made glued shield, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing the edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the money saved.
When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the lid: drilling, chiselling, etc., it is better to cover the working surface of the workbench with a thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately with a workbench.
Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls
The design of the sidewall consists of two legs (B), tsargs and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through glued spike.
Curly cutouts of the sides and supports (detail A) are cut out on a band saw, followed by grinding the edges.
In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, the legs are marked with sockets for the spikes of the prolegs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.
On the outer side of the legs, a conical recess is made for the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.
Sawing spikes and eyelets
Spikes and lugs are made on a saw machine or by hand, guided by the basic principles for creating spiked joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a flawless fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared smooth surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.
The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.
Sidewall assembly
Parts A and B are glued into a finished joint. After drying, the excess glue that has come through is carefully cleaned with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is polished.
A hole 19x38 mm is drilled in the center of the glued drawer side under the dowel (L) to fix the cover of the workbench.
Production of prolegs and underbench shelves
According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for prolegs (detail C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As in the case of the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw machine.
The connection of the prolegs with the sidewall is made detachable on a bolt screed with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and a depth of 32 mm is milled on the inside of the prolegs. A hole of 14x95 mm is drilled at the ends of the prolegs. At this stage, it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90 °.
The support strips (details D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws with an offset of 22 mm from the upper edges of the prongs.
According to the dimensions specified in the “General Detailing” drawing, the slats of the bench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersinked at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.
Mounting the bench cover
Non-through holes d19 mm and 32 mm deep for dowels (L) are drilled on the back side of the workbench.
With a d19 mm drill, through holes are made on the lid for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the cover. All holes are chamfered. The stops should easily enter the sockets and not play.
Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure neat holes at a perfectly right angle. It is not difficult to make such a guide yourself, having a piece of timber at hand.
Bench vise installation
Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to buy a carpentry vice ready-made. In this case, you will get the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.
Manufacturers of bench vises strive to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we will consider the installation scheme of typical structures. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of non-standard bench vise.
Vice jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - are sawn from hardwood. After that, holes are drilled for guide rods, a lead screw, sockets for bench stops and holes for mounting screws.
The rear jaws of the front and rear vise are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.
Wooden linings (detail K) are cut to fit the vise. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.
Advice! To accurately mark the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces of masking tape and a soft pencil.
Loading...