Penofol on the roof. The use of penofol for various building designs. Ceiling and roof lining

The essence and features of the heat-insulating material Penofol, its scope, advantages and disadvantages, surface preparation, the algorithm for insulating internal walls, final finishing.

The content of the article:

Wall insulation with Penofol from the inside is a technology that is becoming increasingly popular for various reasons. It is believed that this material has truly unique characteristics and is extremely easy to use. With its help, it is possible to achieve the preservation of the optimal microclimate in the room due to not only insulating, but also reflective qualities.

Features of Penofol and insulation of the premises from the inside

Penofol belongs to the category of very thin polymer-based insulation, which are produced using a foaming process. The basis is polyethylene foam, which can have a different thickness, structure and density. The material owes its name to it.

Subsequently, a layer of aluminum foil, which has reflective properties, is attached to the layer of such polyethylene. It can be fixed on one or both sides, it is polished to such an extent that the reflection coefficient reaches 97%. It is applied by heat welding.

The manufacturing technology of Penofol gives it a closed structure, which is why this insulation is not able to pass moisture and water vapor. As for the foil, its main task is to reflect back the heat flows passing inside the room.

According to the principle of operation, the insulator resembles a classic thermos. If you insulate the walls from the inside with foil Penofol in the house, then in the cold months it will keep it warm in it, and in the summer - cool. If other heat insulators keep the heat that comes out of the room, then the material with an aluminum layer reflects it.

Wall insulation with Penofol from the inside can be done with one of 3 varieties of this material: type A - foil on one side; type B - foil on both sides; type C, where on one side there is an adhesive base, and on the other - foil. One of the most popular last types can be considered Penofol, pasted over on one side with foil, but at the same time many small holes are pierced in it. Such perforated material acquires vapor permeability.

Penofol is produced in various thicknesses - from 3 to 10 mm. In some cases, when material is required for harsh climatic conditions, the thickness can be increased up to 40 mm. Its tensile strength during compression is not less than 0.035 MPa.

The scope of this heat-insulating material is the internal insulation of residential and industrial premises, including walls, as well as balconies and loggias. The range of temperatures at which it can be used is from -60 to +100 degrees Celsius.

Penofol has proven itself as an independent heat insulator or middle layer of insulation when protecting baths, attics, showers, basements. With its help, they produce heat reflection of home batteries, insulation of floors and pipelines, as well as various communication systems.

Truly effective results in insulation can be achieved by combining Penofol with other materials. The combination with other heat insulators allows you to increase the thickness of the layer, which will create the necessary margin of safety for severe frosts. The Penofol foil itself perfectly reflects moisture, as a result of which the entire structure is operated for a long time.

Pros and cons of wall insulation with Penofol from the inside

The material has more than enough advantages - it is not for nothing that it has become so widespread. Let's name the following positive qualities:

1. Saving usable space. This was made possible due to the small thickness of Penofol compared to other heaters. At the same time, it can replace heat insulators with a thickness ten times greater.
2. Good thermal insulation. Provided by the reflectivity of the material.
3. High degree of environmental friendliness. The insulator is practically non-toxic, because it is made on the basis of aluminum foil and polyethylene, which have long been used in the food industry.
4. fire safety. This quality is due to the fact that Penofol is categorized as a flame-retardant material.
5. Low vapor permeability. At the same time, it does not matter what the weather is outside the window, since the moisture is not absorbed by the insulation.
6. Sanitary safety. Penofol is considered a material that is difficult to access for rodents.
7. Ease of transportation. This is due to the fact that the heat insulator is rolled up and easily transported.
8. Excellent noise isolation. If such material is mounted on the main structure, it will help protect against acoustic noise.
9. Ease of installation. Penofol is easily cut with any knife, and you can fix it not only with small nails, but even with adhesive tape. But at the same time it is difficult to break or crumble.

However, as is the case with other thermal insulation materials, Penofol also has certain disadvantages. They are as follows:

1. The need for an additional layer that will help in reflecting heat energy and protecting against moisture.
2. The lack of sufficient rigidity does not allow it to be used for plastering or wallpapering. The material can be pushed through with light pressure.
3. The need to use special adhesive mixtures, since the insulator is not recommended to be nailed to the wall - from this it loses some of its thermal insulation qualities.

Penofol insulation technology for internal walls

Depending on the characteristics of the room and the method of thermal insulation, the appropriate type of Penofol is selected. Some of them can be attached autonomously (type B), others serve as waterproofing for a more powerful insulation (type A), and others act as the basis of a heat-insulating layer (type C). This material successfully allows the surface to breathe without accumulating moisture. It relieves the walls from the appearance of mold and mildew, which occur after steam enters.

Preparatory work before thermal insulation of walls with Penofol

Before starting the installation of Penofol, it is imperative to check the quality of the electrical wiring in the room. Unlike other thermal insulation materials, it contains aluminum foil, which is known to have good electrical conductivity. It is necessary to provide wire protection to prevent contact of the insulation with bare cables.

It goes without saying that the work surface is prepared - they clean off the garbage, clean it with an emery cloth. If necessary, close the cracks with putty mortar. It is also advisable to buy ground paint and paint over the wall, which will allow you to get a perfectly flat surface.

Of the tools and devices for the work, we need:

• Well-sharpened knife;
• Furniture (construction) stapler with staples to it;
• Ruler;
• Level;
• Pencil;
• Construction spatula;
• A hammer;
• Working deep container for solution;
• Sandpaper of varying degrees of graininess;
• Screwdriver;
• Roulette;
• dowels;
• Electric drill.

Instructions for installing Penofol on the walls

Armed with the necessary tool and using the help of another person, carry out the following actions:

1. Initially, a wall-mounted wooden frame is being built. Its task is to enhance the effect of the use of heat-insulating material. For fixing the bars, dowels are taken, which are hammered no wider than 1 m from each other.
2. Penofol is fixed on the frame with a furniture stapler. To do this, the material is cut into strips with a sharp knife. The strips are not overlapped, but end-to-end, so that condensation does not form along the joint line. Seams can be glued with special adhesive tape.
3. After that, another frame is attached, at a distance of 2 cm. This is done in order to allow air circulation. Now it will be possible to cover it with facing panels, putty or stick wallpaper on top.

A vapor barrier film is not laid, because the material itself is considered vapor-tight. However, it cannot replace waterproofing.

A common mistake associated with improper installation of insulation: some craftsmen mount Penofol directly on the ceiling or wall, leaving an air gap on only one side. This leads to a decrease in its thermal insulation characteristics.

Important! When installing Penofol, its foil part must necessarily look inside the room, and not at the wall. This is a necessary condition for additional heat reflection.

Wall finishing

After you lay the heat insulator, cover it with a crate and wood boards on top, you can start finishing the surface. You need to start by leveling it: any defects that may interfere with the reliable fastening of the plaster or gluing the wallpaper roll are removed. Irregularities are best smoothed out with emery, starting with coarse-grained and ending with fine sandpaper, which makes the surface even and smooth.

Most often, a plaster solution is applied to the finished wall, which can then be painted or decorated in other ways. The most common are cement-based or gypsum-based plaster mixes. At the same time, gypsum is not subject to shrinkage over time, it has good plasticity and connecting properties. For him, there is no need to use a reinforcing mesh.

If there is not enough experience in plastering walls, you can purchase plaster signaling devices that will be limiters - they allow you to measure the thickness of the layer and protect against irregularities. After fixing the signaling beacons on the working surface, you can begin to prepare the solution.

Take a bucket or other container, fill it with water by about a third. Gradually add the solution and stir constantly to achieve a homogeneous mass. The solution must be of such a consistency that it does not drain from the spatula, and its density will depend on how thick the plaster layer should be.

If the walls in the room strongly absorb moisture, they must be additionally moistened. For these purposes, a household spray bottle is well suited. This is done so that the solution retains its moisture, otherwise it will crack after drying.

The plaster is applied to the wall by throwing it with a spatula. If such skills are difficult to master at first, then you can apply the solution on a wooden trowel and level it on the surface. Alignment is carried out in the direction from the bottom up. If plastering is carried out in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slopes of window and door openings, then it is better to apply the mortar with a slight overlap.

Using the rule, you can remove the excess solution. Its sharp edge is directed perpendicular to the plaster beacons. You should start from the bottom border. Gradually, the tool is raised higher and higher and the excess solution is removed, throwing it up. After that, the final smoothing of the wall is carried out. This is done several times to achieve a smooth surface.

In order to make sure that the surface is smooth, the rule is applied at various angles. The resulting bumps are scraped off with the sharp edge of the tool. It remains to pull the beacons out of the wall with a screwdriver. Now you can grout the plaster or paint it. On this, the insulation of the walls with Penofol from the inside can be considered finished.

Thermal insulation Penofol wooden walls

In this case, the work is somewhat different, since the tree itself is already a warm material. But, despite the fact that such a surface has a “breathing” ability, retains heat and contributes to the creation of a favorable microclimate, warm air can still seep into the street.

During operation, the wood undergoes some shrinkage under the influence of natural and climatic factors. This causes the appearance of fresh cracks, cracks, and other unfavorable places. The tightness is broken, which leads to the need to apply a heat-insulating layer.

Before carrying out thermal insulation work on wooden walls, you need to make sure what breed of wood they are made of. This is due to the fact that different varieties and breeds of wood differ in different characteristics for thermal insulation. All this leads to the fact that the cost of insulation can be different.

It is the lack of external insulation that leads to the need for internal thermal insulation of the walls. Penofol in this case is the best fit, especially if you combine it with other materials.

Work on the insulation of a wooden house is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• Insulation of wooden walls from the inside with Penofol should begin with sealing the cracks and gaps that form naturally in the wood. Particular attention is recommended to be paid to checking the joints, window frames, door frames, corners.
• Making a frame for a heat insulator for wooden walls is optional.
• If Penofol sheet with one-sided foiling is used, then it is the side with the foil that should face the crate, that is, inside the room.
• A sharp knife is used to cut the strips.
• The strips are fastened using special staples and a powerful construction stapler. At the same time, they should touch tightly to each other so that there is no free space between them.
• To fix the joints, they are glued with aluminum tape. This will provide a smooth and uniform reflective surface.
• Preservation of the air layer is a mandatory factor for effective insulation and the absence of condensate. The air space must pass between the material and the wall.
• Wooden blocks are stuffed on top of the insulator, which will serve as a crate. Chipboard sheets or plastic panels can be attached to them. The final finish is the same as in the case of concrete walls.

Note! It is necessary to carry out work on the internal insulation of a wooden house after the final shrinkage of its walls and foundation occurs. This usually happens no earlier than a year after the completion of all construction work.

How to insulate walls from the inside with Penofol - look at the video:

The attractiveness of Penofol as a heater is largely due to its unique properties. However, one should also pay tribute to its cost, which fluctuates in ranges below the market average. Ease of installation will also save money, because you can perform thermal insulation of internal walls on your own.

The name Penofol has become so popular that this polyethylene foam with foil is sometimes used where it is not necessary to the detriment of the result with monetary losses. The hype is promoted by sellers who, for the sake of sales, attribute miraculous properties to polyethylene foam. Consider how Penofol is correctly applied, why sometimes owners get losses with this material ....

What is Penofol

Foamed polyethylene with foil is a soft and elastic roll material, often from 3.5 to 10 mm thick, for use as a substrate, vapor barrier, wind barrier, insulation layer.

According to the manufacturer, the thermal conductivity of the uncompressed material is in the range of 0.037 - 0.05 W / m ° C. For comparison, for foam - 0.035 - 0.04 W / m ° C - the material is slightly warmer ...

The pasted layer of aluminum foil reflects infrared radiation, preventing it from escaping from a heated house to a cold street. It is also impervious to water vapor.

It is produced with a thickness of 3 - 10 mm more often in rolls up to 36 meters long, with a width of 1200 mm.

The material is very light and easy to process, cut with scissors, fastened with glue, or pressed with screws, crate. Convenience and ease of use, as well as a small price, contribute to popularity and ... misuse.

Types of Penofol

Distinguish:

Thermal insulation qualities of Penofol

It should be noted that when compressed by 2–3 times of the initial thickness, air is partially displaced from the material, and the thermal conductivity coefficient increases significantly. At the same time, a decrease in the layer thickness entails a proportional decrease in the resistance to heat transfer. This means, at least, that Penofol, as a heater, should not be used in a compressed state.

On the manufacturer's website you can find the following values:

• resistance to heat transfer R of the insulation "PENOFOL®" in a design with a closed air gap - 1.175 - 1.362 m2S / W.

Apparently, such a high value for a thin layer of insulation was obtained by adding the resistance to heat transfer of directly foamed polyethylene 5–10 mm thick - only 0.15–0.3 m2C / W, and also adding here the heat saving from the foil (barrier to radiant heat), which completely depends on the radiation power from the inside, the temperature in the room, the presence of heating sources, the degree of absorption of radiation by the structures, and also, apparently, also adding the resistance of the “closed air gap” of the structure, which can really reach 1.0 m2C / W, for example, in a double-glazed window.

Nevertheless, the obvious fact is that Penofol really insulates, it remains only to apply it correctly.

Basic rules for the use of Penofol

Where and how Penofol is mainly used in practice

Experts warn. The large-scale use of shielding with conductive foil can disrupt the natural magnetic background, increase (decrease) electromagnetic intensity, disrupt the operation of transceiver devices, which cannot be called useful and correct ...

Examples of incorrect and dangerous use of Penofol

• Laying Penfol under a cement (reinforced concrete) screed. The foil is destroyed by the alkaline aggression of concrete, the insulation layer is compressed excessively. There is no warming effect.
• The use of Penofol as the main layer of insulation in structures that must be insulated in accordance with the standards - in the floors, in the roof, in the walls. At the same time, users are usually guided by the assurances of sellers that the material replaces "5 centimeters of polystyrene" or "6 centimeters of mineral wool." As a result, without the main insulating layer (in most cases it is economically optimal from 10 cm of effective insulation ...), the structures remain cold.
• Overlapping from the side of the living space directly on Penofol, without leaving an air gap, finishing panels, wood trim, wood structures, which entails wetting the finish, mold development, rotting of wood due to condensate accumulated on the vapor barrier-insulation. After a year of such operation, according to the owners, Penofol is “black from mold”.
• Laying inside panel structures along the foil side of the electrical wiring.
• Jointing of Penofol sheets with gaps left, which, in addition to a general decrease in insulation, leaves greater air permeability (drafts) in individual structures, which completely eliminates the presence of an insulating layer.

Insulation of the attic with penofol

How not to make a mistake and choose the right insulation for the roof?

Let's see, is it really worth spending money on insulation or can you do without it?

If the insulation procedure is carried out correctly, this will significantly reduce the cost of heating the house, as well as increase the main parts of the roof. The whole point is that without good insulation and vapor barrier, moisture begins to penetrate into the roof, it accumulates and causes the beams to rot. And after a couple of years, the roof structure becomes unusable. Of course, no one will like to carry out repairs after that, moreover, if they are expensive. Yes, and blocking the entire house every 5-8 years is too expensive and tiring. That is why it is so important when assembling roof structures to lay insulation and make reliable waterproofing. This is especially important when building an attic house. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that the roof accounts for 35% of the building's heat loss.

What is the advantage of warming now?

Roof insulation using mineral or basalt wool has become widespread these days. Such thermal insulation materials are made from natural rocks. They have all the necessary qualities to create coziness and comfort in a modern warm house. Basalt fiber insulation has low thermal conductivity, it is practically non-combustible, characterized by high vapor permeability, good sound insulation, resistance to mechanical stress, moisture resistance and durability.

Fiberglass insulation is similar in characteristics to mineral wool. Their main difference lies in a slightly lower resistance to high temperatures and greater water absorption than mineral wool. On the other hand, fiberglass material has a lower specific gravity and a higher level of sound absorption.

These two heaters have long gained popularity in the market, managed to establish themselves as high-quality building materials. But science does not stand still, as a result of which new types of roofing insulation, more modern, enter the market. Such products include polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, etc. The most competitive material on the market right now is extruded polystyrene foam (styrofoam). Its main advantages include low weight, low thermal conductivity and cost. But it also has negative sides: increased flammability, low vapor permeability.

An additional layer of insulation can be placed under the existing thermal insulation. To do this, on the inner lining of the attic or mezzanine, a frame of wooden beams is installed, between which #8220; vspor#8221; slabs of heat-insulating material are placed. The height of the bars should correspond to the thickness of the insulation layer. From the side of the room, the insulation must be protected with a vapor barrier material, which is attached to the wooden bars of the frame. From the inside, the room is trimmed with clapboard, plasterboard sheets, plywood, etc. This method of insulation is not associated with the dismantling of the roof, work can be done not only in summer, but also in winter, however, the usable area and height of the room are reduced.

In some cases, the best option for insulation may be a combined method, when the attic ceiling is insulated over the existing thermal insulation, and its inclined surfaces are insulated from the inside. In any case, we must not forget about the additional insulation of the vertical walls of the attic and part of the ceiling located near the outer wall outside the heated attic room.

Insulation of attic slopes with Penofol

PENOFOL belongs to the category of reflective heat-insulating materials and is a foamed insulation base 4 mm thick with one-sided or two-sided aluminum foiling. This structure gives PENOFOL the properties of both heat and vapor protection. Also, it is a barrier against radon penetration.

History of #8220;Penofol#8221; goes far into the past. Reflective thermal insulation is based on the principle of the Dewar Vessel, invented by the Scottish chemist and physicist James Dewar at the beginning of the last century. This principle is to keep the released heat in a closed space. Thermos is the most striking application of this method. In general, the Dewar theory is based on the fact that almost every material has thermal stability, that is, it does not stop the movement of heat, but can only slow it down by absorption, so that later #8220;radiate#8221; (give) this heat to the environment.

But there are a number of materials that behave differently in heat transfer processes. These include gold, silver and pure polished aluminium. Such materials reflect 97-99% of the radiant energy that reaches their surface. These elements, as heat conductors, need to be supplemented with a thermal barrier. As a thermal barrier, Dewar proposed glass, which turned out to be not entirely effective due to the fragility of the structure. Later, NASA (American Space Agency) replaced the glass with a thin film of polyethylene, and they offered to cover the insulating material on both sides with gold, silver or aluminum.

Already a modern reflective heat-insulating material is a composition of one or two layers of aluminum and a layer of foamy self-extinguishing polyethylene with air bubbles. Such material is the most effective in comparison with many traditional heat-insulating products.

The results of various experiments indicate that #8220;Penofol#8221; - an effective heat insulator, with which you can save 30-40% of the energy supplied for space heating. A characteristic feature of reflective thermal insulation is that with an increase in the temperature of the heater and the environment, the efficiency of thermal insulation increases.

Scope #8220;Penofol#8221; very wide: for insulation of roofs over interior decoration, for floors and walls, for insulating pipelines, etc.

There are two ways to apply reflective insulation:

Warming only with the use of reflective thermal insulation;

Warming in combination with traditional thermal insulation.

Perhaps the most effective area of ​​​​application #8220; Penofol #8221; roof protrudes. Using #8220;Penofol#8221; in the design of the roof, 2 problems can be solved: heat-insulating (saving heat in the building) and heat-shielding (protecting the house from overheating). Productive #8220; Peno-foul #8221; and in buildings of industrial refrigerators.

PENOFOL, as a rule, is of several types:

Type A - based on polyethylene with aluminum foil on one side. Such material is recommended to be used for thermal insulation of the roof and ceiling of residential premises, walls of baths, saunas and basements;

Type B - based on polyethylene with double-sided coating with aluminum foil. This material can be used for wall insulation on block enclosing structures, walls of light country and agricultural buildings, floors on wooden beams;

Type C - based on polyethylene coated on one side with aluminum foil, on the other side of which an adhesive layer is applied. This reflective material can be used for thermal insulation of car interiors, for insulation of various metal structures.

Install PENOFOL (first layer) below the thermal insulation, where it performs the functions of a vapor barrier. When installing reflective thermal insulation, it must be remembered that it only works if there is an air gap, since without it, the phenomenon of heat transfer through solids occurs. The ideal air space to be placed in front of the reflective layer is 2 cm. Smaller air spaces are correspondingly less effective. PENOFOL can be installed simultaneously below (layer 1) and above thermal insulation (layer 2), in which case it will replace both vapor barrier and waterproofing.

Rice. 1. Insulation with PENOFOL: 1 - 1st layer of penofol; 2-. 2nd layer of penofol; 3 - thermal insulation; 4 - interior decoration of the attic; 5 - rafter; 6 - ridge run; 7 - crate; 8 - roof

Such a constructive technique will further reduce the thickness of the massive insulation. When installed above thermal insulation (layer 2), perforated PENOFOL is used. If the attic room is not used year-round, but say from early spring to late autumn, then the PENOFOLI layer can be only 50 mm, not 100 mm, as mentioned earlier. And if this is a light building, and is operated only at positive temperatures, massive insulation is not installed - only FOAM is enough. The maximum thermal insulation effect is achieved in the presence of air space (1.5-2 cm) on both sides of the insulating material.

All seams must be glued with aluminum adhesive tape (this tape should not be confused with adhesive tape). On the inside of the thermal insulation of the roof there must be an absolutely tight vapor-, hydro-tight layer of reflective PENOFOL insulation.

The roof must be designed in such a way that moisture does not penetrate into the constituent elements either from above or from below. And if moisture still penetrated, then the ventilation system must necessarily remove it.

From the foregoing, it follows that reflective thermal insulation, as a new product of technical progress, quickly gained popularity in many large companies and research centers. Since the 70s, there have been a number of research associations that bring together leaders in the production of reflective thermal insulation. Since 1994, reflective thermal insulation has been brought to Russia, and now it has already entered the top 100 best domestic products.

Attics and balconies - Additional insulation of attics and mezzanines

Do-it-yourself warming of the loggia. Of heat insulation and finish loggias and balconies yourself.

Description:
July 2013

I did the warming (aka repair) of the loggia for the first time in my life, it turned out perfectly, we survived the winter with the door to the loggia open =) that is, the heat did not leave the loggia, the walls did not freeze! Before that, he had no "finishing" and "carpentry" skills. I got all the knowledge and technology from the Internet and YouTube, for this I decided to support the future "masters" with my photo-slicing.

3DS max Design 2012 + Autocad 2011 software packages were used to prepare the project, visualize, and also to reduce the overrun of materials.

Materials and technology:
1) Penoplex (aka extruded polystyrene foam, 3 cm. The main insulation, mounted on umbrellas, fill the gaps that appeared with mounting foam, followed by trimming the excess), Penoplex insulated ONLY a cold wall, ceiling, floor and balcony railing, i.e. a wall common with mine hall, as well as the wall in common with the children's room - did not touch!
2) Penofol (3mm, reflective thermal insulation and vapor barrier. In my case, it is attached to a 2-sided adhesive tape, fastened together with foil tape).
3) Gender. Boards 130mm * 20mm * L, laid on logs 4 rows of timber, lightly reinforced with mounting foam. The height of the lag was selected for a specific desired mark. Covered with varnish at least 3-4 layers. (before installation, all beams and boards were sprayed with an antiseptic for durability).
4) Moisture resistant drywall (12.5mm). For mounting on penoplex, I used a crate (guides) from boards 20x40xL mm, for mounting on a brick wall (after wetting the wall with a primer) I used a special "glue for drywall". The seams are sealed using well-known technology - paint mesh, putty, grout, primer!
5) The ceiling was painted at least 2 times with white paint.
6) Liquid wallpaper SilkPlast 062 (adhesive mixture of silk pile + paper component). Application technology is indicated on the packages. Consumption is approximately 1 package ($ 15) ~ 2 m2 (it says on the package that 3.5 m2). It is applied like plaster - with a plastic spatula. The child will cope =)
7) Everything is clear with skirting boards.
8) The furniture was originally looked after in a furniture store and ordered in separate parts from different furniture collections. Furniture laguna.by - during assembly, I found a bunch of jambs of furniture makers, but at that cost (in the amount of $ 150) - a good option, especially since the furniture for the loggia. The table top was cleverly trimmed and turned into a 3-hinged fold-out table. The leg unscrews.
And the most interesting thing: Without furniture, everything about everything took $ 430 (of which $ 370 was used / invested material, the remaining $ 60 went to consumables + related tools - blades, drills, square + ruler, gloves, film, whisk for mixing mortar, glue, ironing spatula for liquid wallpaper, self-tapping screws, anchors, putty spatulas, sandpaper, masking tape)

Properly insulating the attic from the inside, you can use the attic space all year round. This solution allows you to save on home. The technology for creating an insulated attic is selected based on one main factor - at what stage of the construction of the house the attic was laid. It is also worth figuring out how to choose the right insulation material, how to lay it, what tools will be needed during the work.

To do this, there are step-by-step instructions that allow you to figure out what actions to perform at each stage of attic insulation. If a warm attic space was planned at the design stage of the building, the type of insulation should be correlated with the tasks assigned to it. To understand how to properly insulate, it is worth understanding the algorithm of work and the calculated data.

Choosing the right heater

If the attic will be used only in summer, it is enough to cover only the floor area with a layer of insulation. When planning year-round housing, multi-layer insulation of the attic from the inside is performed. The process includes the processing of walls, gables, floors and ceilings. In addition, the heating of the attic space will have to be integrated with the heating system of your home.

The difficulties that arise when choosing a heater for the attic are often associated with the non-standard architecture of the attic floor. The choice of material depends on such factors:

• climatic conditions;
• construction of the truss system;
• tasks of using the attic.

The attic floor is insulated with both hard and soft materials. Often used mounting liquid foam. The use of each type of attic insulation requires compliance with certain rules that should be considered in more detail.

Insulation options

The most economical option is the thermal insulation of the attic with sawdust. When combined with cement mortar, a non-combustible mixture is formed, which does not attract small rodents at all. In addition, sawdust can fill any hard-to-reach places. You can understand how to insulate a living room in an attic in the process of choosing a thermal insulation material.

Styrofoam

This attic insulator is a cheap and lightweight material that can be used on flat surfaces. Polyfoam has a number of disadvantages:

• low vapor permeability creates conditions for the appearance of dampness;
• air can freely penetrate between the insulation plates, which is fraught with drafts;
• one of the most significant disadvantages of the material is that mice love to arrange their moves and nests in it.

In addition, during combustion, the foam emits toxic gases. For a gable roof, such a heater is optimal - it is easy and inexpensive to install.

Styrofoam

One of the advantages of expanded polystyrene is that it does not form joints during installation, which eliminates the appearance of cold bridges. The material does not attract pests and has good noise and sound insulation properties.

Another popular type of expanded polystyrene is extruded polystyrene foam. Due to the many positive properties, the use of the material allows you to exclude the appearance of moisture. The material provides a sufficiently high degree of thermal insulation of the attic. Extruded polystyrene foam is durable and practical. With the same success, you can insulate a residential attic with penoplex.

Penofol

Insulation of the attic with penofol allows you to create excellent heat and sound insulation protection of the attic. In addition, it has waterproofing properties. Its biggest drawback is not sufficiently high strength.

polyurethane foam

It is sprayed onto the selected surface of the attic from a cylinder. Advantages of polyurethane foam:

• high speed of surface treatment;
• excellent thermal insulation properties;
• not attractive to small rodents.

Other advantages include low cost of the product, resistance to high temperatures and acids. Also spraying polyurethane foam allows you to achieve good tightness.

Mineral wool

If you list all the parameters of high-quality thermal insulation for the attic, this will turn out to be a list of the advantages of mineral wool. The material perfectly retains heat, does not burn, provides a sufficient degree of sound insulation, is easy to install and can easily fill voids of various sizes.

Ecowool

It is made from recycled pulp. The material is delivered to the point of sale crushed. Ecowool is applied to the surface of the attic using a special tool. The advantages include seamlessness, ease of installation, high environmental friendliness, providing steam and heat insulation. In addition, ecowool is not afraid of pests, does not burn. When working with the material, you need to have certain construction skills.

Necessary calculations

When figuring out how to properly insulate the attic from the inside, and what material to choose for this, you should pay attention to such an indicator as the coefficient of thermal conductivity. This information will allow you to correctly calculate the quantity and cost of the material. Indicate the coefficient of thermal conductivity in the quality certificate.

Advice! To keep the attic warm, you should pay attention to materials with an indicator of 0.05 W / m * K.

The calculation of the density of the insulator for the attic is also necessary for the correct choice of material. The heat transfer resistance of walls (R req) is calculated as follows:

R req = (1/А1) + (L/k) + (1/А2)

Here A1 is an indicator of the heat exchange of the attic wall from the inside. This indicator is equal to 8.7 W/m 0оС.

A2 shows how the heat exchange of the wall takes place from the outside (23 W/m 0°C).

L is the thickness of the wall material in meters and k is its thermal conductivity.

After completing these calculations, you can calculate the thickness of the attic wall, taking into account the insulation used. The resulting indicators are compared with certain building codes, and their difference is the thickness of the insulation.

What is the insulation layer made of?

When insulating the attic floor, you can significantly save on heating. Subject to the correct sequence of construction of the thermopie, all work on the equipment of a warm attic can be done by hand. The layers of a warm roofing cake include:

• roofing material;
• counter-lattice (nailed outside to the racks of future walls);
• a layer of waterproofing material;
• ventilation gap;
• thermal insulation layer;
• vapor barrier membrane;
• crate;
• interior finishing materials.

As the main insulation, the gables, floor and ceiling of the attic are insulated. With the formation of icicles in winter on the roof, one can argue about improperly performed thermal insulation. The snow on the roof begins to melt from the warm air rising from below, which causes the formation of icicles.

Insulation of vertical walls

To start the insulation of the vertical walls of the attic floor, it is worth sealing large cracks with jute. The scheme for performing thermal insulation of the attic walls includes:

• Creation of a crate (outside), on which waterproofing will be laid from the inside. The slats are nailed on the outside of the wall studs.
• Execution of a waterproofing layer from the inside of the attic. For this purpose, a vapor barrier membrane is more suitable. It will let steam out, but prevent the penetration of moisture into the insulation.
• Next, a layer of insulation is laid.
• Perform vapor barrier. It is a reliable protection against the penetration of steam into the insulation.
• Creating a layer of finishing material.

Walls should be insulated only after they have been carefully processed. Anti-fungal and fire-fighting compounds are applied to the wooden elements of the truss system. Along the perimeter of the windows, it is necessary to build a special structure that will serve as a docking point for the heat-insulating cake and skylights.

Waterproofing must be overlapped by 150-200 mm. It is better to fix the insulation between the beams close to them (as in the photo). This will eliminate the formation of cold bridges and excess heat loss. When choosing mineral wool, it should be laid with a small margin on each side. It should hold well between the beams.

When insulating an attic in a cold climate zone, after performing a vapor barrier, another layer of insulated material is laid. From above, the vapor barrier is mounted again.

Floor insulation

First, the entire surface of the future floor must be cleaned of any debris. Irregularities and cracks should be sealed with a cement-sand mixture. Next is waterproofing. If it is a concrete slab, it is coated with bituminous mastic. When waterproofing a wooden floor, roll waterproofing is laid.

Next, install a heater. It is placed in a continuous layer or between floor beams. Vapor barriers are laid on the insulation. Then a reinforcing screed is performed. After that, you can start cleaning. In the case of a wooden floor, instead of a screed, it is worth making a trim with an edged board.

Advice! Before starting work on the insulation of a wooden floor, the surface is treated with refractory and antiseptic solutions.

If necessary, hemmed with a layer of insulation and the ceiling of the attic. The work is identical to the procedure for wall insulation. Outside, a crate is made, then a layer of waterproofing is created (from the inside), insulation and vapor barrier are laid. Next comes the cleanup.

Results

To make the insulation of the attic from the inside with your own hands, you will need to carry out simple calculations. It is also necessary to choose materials for waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier. It is also worth reading the instructions - how to properly insulate the attic.

Wooden houses built more than 40 years ago had thick and massive walls. A massive foundation had to be poured, and an entire construction team had to be hired to install the walls. But even with sufficient thickness, the walls had to be insulated with: moss, tow or straw with clay. Modern materials make it possible to insulate a wooden house from the inside quickly and without much physical exertion. Mineral wool, polystyrene and polyester have been around for over 20 years, but modern markets offer lighter and more practical materials. One of these is penofol. How to insulate a wooden house from the inside with penofol, design features and installation in one article.

Penofol insulation is easier to perform, and due to its smaller thickness and high thermal insulation characteristics, the material has received many positive reviews from users.

What is penofol?

Penofol is a know-how in the world of materials for the insulation of wooden houses, loggias and baths. It refers to reflective insulation with a top layer of a special polished foil material. The basis is foamed PVC. The heat-saving properties of the material depend on the density, thickness and quality of the foam base. The foam base has a thickness of 2 to 40 mm. The most common for warming a wooden house inside is 10 mm. The 40 mm material is used only in the northern part of Russia, where the climate is very harsh. From above (on two or one side) a foil is welded to the material, which was polished to a reflectivity of 97%.

A bit of history

The material was invented in the USA and used to make space suits. In Russia, they paid attention to the high thermal insulation properties of the material and began to use it in the construction industry. For the insulation of wooden houses, the material is used both inside and outside.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside with penofol resembles a thermos in design. A wooden house whose walls are covered with foil thermal insulation retains heat in winter, and cool air is kept in it in summer. At the same time, internal insulation does not block the supply of oxygen to the tree and the house does not stop breathing. A thickness less than mineral wool or polystyrene by several tens of times made it possible to use insulation in the smallest rooms.

On the advantages and disadvantages of the material

Insulation can be used in combination with other materials or independently. And its lightness makes it easy to do the warming with your own hands alone. Positive feedback about foam insulation is associated with its advantages:

1. Environmental friendliness. The material is made of film and foil used in the food industry. Some sources claim that he is able to keep out radiation, but this fact has not been proven.
2. Great thermal insulation with a smaller layer thickness. According to scientific research, penofol with double-sided foiling 4 mm thick is comparable in its thermal insulation properties to mineral wool 10 cm, polystyrene foam 4 cm and wood 18 mm.
3. Since the material does not allow steam to pass through, installation can be carried out without additional thermal insulation of the structure.
4. It does not pass or absorb moisture, therefore it does not spread rot and mold on the wood.
5. It has high soundproofing qualities, therefore, in frame construction, it is used for finishing children's rooms and bedrooms.
6. Do not crumble or break, you can cut with simple scissors or a sharp knife.
7. It is easily mounted on the wooden walls of the house with small carnations, construction foil tape or a stapler.
8. It does not burn, as it has a fire hazard class of difficult combustible and difficult to ignite.
9. You can transport the material in any passenger car alone. It is lightweight and rolls into a soft roll.
10. Due to the thin layer, rodents will not make holes in the material, as, for example, in foam plastic or mineral wool.
11. Certified by specialists of the Sanitary and Epidemiological Institute, and suitable for use in children's institutions.

Despite all the advantages of the material, there are a lot of negative reviews. They are associated with:

1. Softness. After installation from the inside of a wooden house, it is impossible to immediately plaster or wallpaper.
2. It is difficult to mount with a special glue, and using nails or a stapler, the material breaks through and loses part of its thermal insulation. Only group C can be excluded, which includes the insulation on one side covered with an adhesive composition, like with adhesive tape.
3. Do not use for facade insulation, as the material will not release steam from the house and condensation will accumulate under the film. This will quickly destroy the walls.

With high-quality installation and proper insulation, pefonol insulation provides long-term protection to the walls, floors and ceiling of a wooden house. For each part of the structure, a material of a certain brand is used.

Insulation brands

According to the markings, penofol is divided into A, B, C, ALP, AIR, M, R, NET. The characteristics of each can be seen in the table:

brand	Characteristic	Purpose
BUT	It has a thickness of foam polyethylene from 2-10 mm, a foil layer on one side only.	They are used to insulate walls, floors, ceilings from the inside of a wooden house or from the outside along with foam.
AT	Foam thickness from 2 to 40 mm, foil coated on both sides.	Insulation of any part of a wooden house from the inside and outside, both with other heaters, and independently.
FROM	The thickness of polyethylene foam is from 2 to 40 mm, foiled on one side, on the other, a sticky base of moisture-resistant glue.	Suitable for insulation from inside the house, easy to install without additional fasteners.
ALP	Thickness from 2 to 40 mm, foiled on both sides, on one side polyethylene is welded onto the foil, it is called laminated.	Used to insulate any part of the building in a slightly aggressive environment.
AIR	Thickness is from 2 to 10 mm, the foil part has increased strength.	Used for insulation of the ventilation system and pipes.
R, M	Thickness from 2 to 10 mm, foiled on one side, embossed surface.	Suitable for insulating wooden walls inside and out.
NET	Thickness 2-10 mm, foiling on both sides is particularly strong.	They are used for warming the communication system in a wooden house: power grid, wells, pipeline, sewerage.

If the brand is chosen correctly, then the thermal insulation will be easy to do with your own hands. For wooden walls, you can use corrugated insulation and A, B, C. The latter is easier to attach to a vertical surface, but if the walls are old, it will not stick well.

Penofol 2000 can be found in hardware stores. This brand is made from lower quality materials, so the price is lower. But it is not recommended to use it for warming the walls of a wooden house, since the strength of the insulation is low. You can meet a combination of several brands at once, it is not difficult to find out about the characteristics of a heat insulator knowing the above main ones. Acquire material by calculating the size based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls.

Installation inside the house

From the inside of a wooden house, insulation is used for thermal insulation of the following structures: walls, ceiling, floor, attic, basement or basement. Due to the non-permeation of moisture, it can be used in damp and dry rooms. Pe rules:

1. With the foil side, penofol is laid to the side where the body should be reflected, that is, into the room.
2. For better thermal insulation between the wall and the material, a ventilated gap of 1.5-2 cm is left. The same is done between the insulation and the outer wall finish.
3. To achieve complete sealing, the seams are glued with a special foil construction tape.

wall insulation technology

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside with penofol is carried out according to the following scheme: a wall, a space of 1.2-2 cm from a crate, a heater, a crate, an exterior finish, such as GKL or GVL. More details of the scheme and design are presented in the video and photo in this article.

Work is being done in stages:

1. Bars 15-20 mm thick pre-treated with an antiseptic are attached to the wall. Any step of the crate, but not more than 1 m.
2. Penofol is attached to the crate. It is easier to do this with a stapler or small carnations. Laying is done end-to-end. They are sealed with foil tape.
3. A counter crate from a beam of a smaller or the same section is attached to the material. The bars are attached in the opposite direction to the first crate.
4. Any panels (block house, imitation of timber, lining) or sheet material (GKL or GVL) are attached to the crate from above.
5. The walls are plastered and painted or covered with wallpaper.

It is not difficult to perform thermal insulation with your own hands. the main thing is to follow all the steps. Video and photo materials in this article will help even a beginner to cope with the work.

Price for material and work

The price of material and work depends on the volume of the order, the complexity of the design, the quality of the insulation. The laying scheme is not complicated, but a qualified team will take more for the work than advertised. The average cost for professionals in major cities is shown in the table:

It is cheaper to buy material in bulk. To insulate a wooden house from the inside, it is expensive to use, but it costs no savings to insulate a bathroom, a nursery and a bedroom.