How to make a hood in the bath - design and installation of ventilation. Ventilation in the bath: the best schemes and professional advice Ventilation box in the steam room

Since ancient times, people believed that the bath is able to heal the body. It is not for nothing that a saying appeared among the people: “The bathhouse soars, the bathhouse rules, the bathhouse will fix everything.” To really get a charge of vivacity and health, it is necessary to create the most favorable microclimate for this with a sufficient content of oxygen in it. This is the purpose of ventilation in the sauna in the steam room, where during every hour the air must be updated at least 2 times. When we talk about a bath, we also mean a steam room.

The quality of taking bath procedures and our well-being directly depend on whether the ventilation scheme in the steam room is correctly implemented. Before we look at how to make ventilation in the steam room, we will analyze its functions.

Steam room natural ventilation functions

The bathhouse needs ventilation, because. it performs 3 main functions:

Saturation of the steam room with oxygen.
Creation of optimal bath processes for steam and air exchange management.
Drying the bath after washing to prevent the formation of mold and fungi that destroy wooden structures.

In order for the steamers to breathe easily, a constant supply of fresh air is required. after washing, air the bath through the door and window.

In the human body at the time of soaring, the process of oxygen exchange in the blood increases several times. For one visit to the steam room (up to 2 hours or more), an adult produces 0.5-1.5 liters of sweat, which is a concentrated toxin. Without an influx of fresh air, we are poisoned by the products of our own vital activity. An air mixture low in oxygen and high in carbon dioxide can cause headaches, nausea, dizziness, and lethargy. People perceive this as an intolerance to the bath, and do not realize that they themselves have created such conditions. The reason is that there is no ventilation in the steam room.

How are steam regimes created? In order for the air flow to heat up quickly, it is introduced at the bottom of the furnace, from which it heats up and, mixing with steam, rises to the ceiling and to the soaring zone.

A layer of steam is created there, which, when cooled, begins to settle in the form of condensate. On the wall, opposite the stove, opposite the side below, under the bath shelf, a hole is made for the outlet of the exhaust air. Due to internal circulation, fresh air is actively mixed in and unnecessary air is removed. Valves are installed on the channels to adjust the air exchange in the steam room. This is how steam is managed, and bath procedures are carried out in more comfortable conditions.

On the opposite wall from the inflow, in the upper part, another exhaust hole is made, which is closed for the period of heating and washing. The top extractor is not for steam modes. It is only needed to dry the bath after washing. After taking bath procedures, it is necessary to open both the upper hole and the lower one in order to thoroughly dry the room.

Many are mistaken, claiming that it is possible to dry the bath with an oven with doors and windows closed. This is an illusion. In the absence of air exchange, it will not be possible to dry the bath well. When heated, air is able to hold a lot of water (steam). When it cools, everything happens the other way around: the air cannot hold much moisture and begins to throw it out in the form of dew. As a result, a lot of dampness will remain in the bath. With organized ventilation, with each new stream, excess moisture is also carried out into the street. Any steel oven will cope with this, because the cooling process takes up to 3 hours.

Ventilation of the steam room through the foundation

The design of the building affects the choice of the type of ventilation system.

An example of steam room ventilation through the foundation

Previously, there was no ventilation in chopped baths, or it was used in its simplest form. The air from the steam room came out through the blower of the stove, which was installed here. Fresh air was supplied through a door ajar by 5 mm. The design of the bath was as follows: a steam room, a washing room and a stove in one room.

In order for the stove to work as a hood, it must be installed so that the blower is below the floorboards. It should be borne in mind that ventilation through the stove blower goes only during the burning of fire in the stove. If furnaces with short-term operation are used, an improved ventilation system cannot be dispensed with.

Here is another diagram that will help those who have a metal oven. The basis of steam room ventilation is the burning stove itself. It should ventilate not only the bath, but the entire foundation. Bad air with an unpleasant odor usually accumulates under the bath if everything is not arranged correctly. The air vent made in the foundation contributes to the flow of air under the floor.

Underfloor ventilation

In the warm-up (firebox) mode of the bath, air circulates between the washing room, the steam room and the space under the common floor. To do this, a window with a shutter is made in the partition between the steam room and the sink to regulate the ventilation mode.

From the chimney of the furnace comes draft to the surface. For her, air comes from all possible cracks.

Through a metal pipe with a diameter of 115 mm, 5-10 l / s of flue gases pass, which is equivalent to the intake air of the furnace - 300-600 l / min, and this is 2-3 barrels of air per 1 minute, the furnace pumps out into the chimney.

Therefore, if your stove smokes cheerfully with a pipe, it means that it absorbs the same amount of air through the blower from the bath, while giving off an enormous amount of heat.

If your stove takes air with its blower from your steam room, it first of all ventilates your steam room, then the underground and through it the air gets back, because. has a total volume. There should be a common underground space under all sections of the bath. If the floors are made independent of each other, then there will be no ventilation. Floor boards should not be laid tightly, through 5-10 mm from each other.

Within 15 minutes, the entire bath air is completely changed, 100% air exchange occurs through the chimney. For additional thermoregulation, you can also open the door of the main room to the dressing room so that the air goes out there and further out into the street.

The optimal scheme for the steam room

There are many schemes with different benefits. Here is one common scheme by which ventilation in the steam room can be arranged with your own hands. It also allows you to adjust the airflow to maintain one or another mode.

Let's consider in more detail. Furnace and door on one side. Air intake behind the stove and through the bottom slot of the door. Opposite, two exhaust channels are mounted (one under the ceiling, the other above the shelf), interconnected by a pipe or duct.

During the heating period of the steam room, both exhaust openings are closed, while the supply air openings remain open.
During the soaring period, the upper exhaust valve is closed, and the lower one is opened. The circulation of air masses begins: it rushes from the furnace to the ceiling, resting against the wall, and descends. Partially, it is pulled out by the lower valve, and the rest continues to move lower to the floor and back up.
After soaring, both exhaust valves are opened to dry the bath.

Application of mechanical and combined ventilation

In paired rooms, ventilation can be arranged in several ways. In addition to natural, mechanical and combined ventilation is used in the steam room. It depends mainly on the layout, for example, if the bath is attached to a residential building. When only one wall borders the street and all valves are installed on it, then ventilation in the bath in the steam room will not do without mechanical stimulation.

In a mechanical and combined ventilation system, special devices are used that control air exchange.

The lower the ventilation holes are placed, the more heat will remain in the steam room. To achieve a good result, it is necessary to additionally equip the ventilation system with mechanical devices. For this, deflectors or simple fans are used in the air ducts. Air exchange is carried out according to the previous scheme, only the removal of unnecessary air from the room is due to the fan. This is a combined system. With a mechanical type of ventilation, a fan is installed in both the supply and exhaust ducts.
Each room has its own type of system.

What conditions must be met

The temperature regime in the steam room should not be violated. Ventilation should properly distribute air flows without violating the set temperature: hot air at the top and cooler closer to the floor.
To change the speed of air movement, valves with the possibility of adjustment should be installed on the channels.
The entry of new air masses into the steam room should be directly from the street. Based on the features of the building, it is possible to mount air ducts.
To avoid back draft, do not allow any difference in area between the exhaust and supply ducts.
To protect the floors from fire, the supply channel under the floor is installed near the metal sheet of the furnace, blowing it with cold air.
At the end of the bath, thoroughly dry the floors and all rooms.
Cover ventilation openings from the outside with gratings to protect against rodents.

Measurements of the microclimate in the steam room

Each bather has individual requirements for temperature and humidity conditions. They are based on personal experience. You can achieve the creation of certain parameters using devices.

Measure the temperature in the steam room with an alcohol thermometer. Mercury thermometer must not be used. You can use an electric thermometer. The thermocouple is placed in the steam room, and the indicator is led into the dressing room or rest room.

Humidity can be measured with a hygrometer. Based on the individual preferences of the steamer, you can use this device to set a certain mode.

What is the result?

Comfortable conditions for vaping and ultimately the degree of satisfaction are due to a balanced regime of humidity, heat and the presence of fresh air. To create such conditions, supply and exhaust ventilation is used. The main thing is to organize it correctly.

A suitable microclimate and the correct air ventilation scheme create conditions for better vaping.

Ventilation in the bath is a mandatory structural element. Without full-fledged air exchange and fresh air supply, even the highest quality wooden building can completely become unusable in 2-3 years. However, even in this short period of time, bathers will have to enjoy such "charms" as dampness, unpleasant smell, lack of fresh air.

Therefore, the installation of the ventilation system must be approached with all responsibility. This is not difficult. Moreover, in most small private baths (especially with the “Russian bath” mode), natural ventilation is the most optimal. And its construction, unlike the forced analogue, will not require the installation of expensive fans. And in some baths, it is generally created "by itself" - only due to the appropriate design of the steam room.

How is the natural ventilation system arranged?

Natural ventilation is driven by air convection that occurs when there is a difference in pressure (temperature) in the room (bath) and outside.

According to the laws of physics, the heated air in the room always rises, and the cold air descends to the floor. The main task of ventilation in the bath is to ensure the flow of fresh air (cold) and displace the exhaust (warm). Therefore, when planning natural ventilation, the inlet is usually located below the exhaust. Then the warm air, rising up, goes out through the exhaust shaft. At the same time, a vacuum (reduced pressure) is created in the room and fresh cool air is drawn in through the inflow near the floor. Gradually, it warms up again, rises and displaces a portion of the exhaust air through the hood. This ensures continuous convection and natural ventilation.

As extracts in a bath with natural ventilation, air vents, vents, and a stove chimney can be used. The air flow is carried out through the crowns of the walls (in chopped baths), ajar doors, ventilation openings. Both supply and exhaust openings (air vents, vents) are provided with shutters or adjustable grilles. This helps to control the air exchange in the room and prevent drafts.

There are several options for natural ventilation. Each of them has its own advantages, special functionality and some restrictions on use.

Option 1. Volley ventilation - airing

Volley ventilation is common in small Russian baths. This is the usual ventilation, which is performed either after bathing procedures, or between entering the steam room. Volley ventilation contributes to a quick change of air, drying the surfaces of the steam room.

With burst ventilation, the role of ventilation holes is performed by a door and a window leaf located on opposite walls. To change the air, they are opened for a short time after soaring (or between visits to the steam room). Depending on which direction the pressure drop is directed, air will move from the window to the door or vice versa.

The role of salvo ventilation is to freshen the air in the steam room, but at the same time not to cool the walls. Therefore, the ventilation time is short - 1-2 minutes is enough.

Option #2. Ventilation with outflow through the chimney

A stove with a chimney can be the driving force behind ventilation. When the fuel is burned, the exhaust air is drawn into the furnace blower and exits through the chimney. In order for fresh air to flow in, a gap of about 5-10 mm is made at the bottom of the door. Or loosely close it during procedures. In log cabins, when a fire is burning in a stove, air from the street is drawn in through loosely fitted lower rims.

Ventilation through the outflow of air through the chimney is only possible while maintaining the fire in the stove. If fuel combustion is not maintained during vaping (e.g. in black-baths or in a short-time oven), no air change will be performed. A more versatile ventilation system will be required.

Option #3. Air exchange through vents

Air exchange through special vents is a universal type of natural ventilation. It allows you to gradually change the air in the steam room several times during the soaring (ideally - 5-6 times per hour). With proper planning of such ventilation, drafts and a decrease in surface temperature will not be observed.

The exhaust hole is usually arranged under the ceiling, above the top shelf. It has dimensions of 15-20 cm, it is square or round. The hood is closed with a removable plug or a sliding damper (door), with which you can change the size of the hood and the degree of air exchange.

A few more rules:

It is undesirable to place the ventilation holes at the same level opposite each other. It is highly likely that fresh air entering the steam room will immediately fly out into the hood. This eliminates the full circulation of air, but leads to the formation of a draft.
The linear dimensions of the hood, ideally, should match the dimensions of the inlet. Or be more. If the dimensions of the hood deviate downwards, new clean air will not enter the bath.
If you want to increase the outflow of exhaust air, the dimensions of the hood make it larger than the supply vent. Or they arrange 2 hoods for 1 inlet.

For the influx of clean air in the steam room, an inlet is equipped, as a rule, 0.2-0.4 m from the floor surface. It can be on the same wall as the hood, or on the opposite side. It is desirable - next to the stove, so that the incoming air has time to heat up and enters the soaring zone already warm. The inlet is closed with a ventilation grill so that the air is drawn into the room in separate streams, and not in a continuous stream.

Step by step installation guide

The classic workflow is:

In the walls of the bath, two holes are made with transverse dimensions of 100-200 mm. It is advisable to form ducts even at the construction stage, so that later you do not have to carve them into finished walls. One hole is made behind the stove (or next to it), at a distance of 20 cm from the floor. The other is on the opposite wall, diagonally, at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling.
Boxes are installed in the holes. They can be bought ready-made - made of metal or plastic. In chopped baths, it is better to use wooden boxes knocked together from boards.
A ventilation grill is placed on the inlet, and a valve on the exhaust. If one of the holes goes outside, an insect net is installed on the outside of the box.

But this order of work is not the only correct one - it all depends on what kind of structure you have and what duct scheme you have chosen.

Advantages and disadvantages of such a system

Among the advantages of natural ventilation, the most significant are:

simple device and easy installation;
low cost - natural ventilation does not require the installation of expensive forced fans;
Efficiency in work - allows you to avoid spending on electricity;
reliability - the absence of mechanical devices makes natural ventilation practically “eternal”, not subject to breakdowns and not in need of repairs.

There are also disadvantages:

the dependence of the ventilation force on the temperature difference in the steam room and on the street;
in autumn and winter, cold air coming from the supply openings lowers the temperature in the steam room, drafts may occur;
smells from the street.

Agree, the shortcomings are insignificant. In a small bath, standing on its own site, natural ventilation is the most rational solution. If there are no pools and large washing facilities inside, there is no point in overpaying for mechanical fans (for forced air exchange). If, for some reason, natural ventilation will not cope with the functions assigned to it, you can convert it to mechanical at any time - just put fans on the holes!

Why is ventilation needed in a Russian bath? Let's take a simple example: a person is steaming, there is hot steam around him and he breathes it. Oxygen is exhaled and carbon dioxide is constantly inhaled - and if there is no influx of fresh air in such an environment, the vacationer can simply burn out. That is, if there is no ventilation - the bath becomes simply life-threatening - which is why there are so many subtleties in the technical rules for the operation of the bath. Yes, sometimes you can hear from experienced craftsmen that ventilation in a brick bath, for example, is not needed - but this is not about the fact that fresh air is not needed in the steam room, but that sometimes natural ventilation is enough in the bath, and she doesn't need a forced one.

General rules for planning bath ventilation

The ventilation system in the bath itself has two main tasks: to deliver fresh air during the procedures and to ensure fast and high-quality drying of the bath rooms after them. And both options should be thought out and implemented.

And here is what ventilation should not do:

Violate the temperature regime of the bath with an influx of fresh air.
It is wrong to stratify temperature flows - i.e. it can be cool only near the floor, but not on the shelf where a steamed person sits.
To remove the wrong air from the steam room - not exhausted, in which there is the most carbon dioxide.

Also, the lack of fresh air will invariably lead to the appearance of an unpleasant smell in the bath - and it is difficult to get rid of it. Yes, the air filled with mold and fungus spores is not the most healing for a resting person.

In total, ventilation in the bath is provided by the following types:

Natural, when the entire air flow occurs due to the pressure difference between the street and the room.
Mechanical - when both the temperature and the air supply are monitored by devices.
Combined when pressure is artificially created using a fan.

And in the bath itself, not only inflow is needed, but also outflow - and this is already done with the help of a box, which is always located diagonally from the supply channel.

Ventilation is vital not only in a stuffy steam room - but also in the shower room, in the locker room and even in the rest room. Just initially you need to decide which of its types is suitable for a particular bath.

The floors in the bath should also be ventilated - because they are constantly in contact with water, which can lead to their destruction. If this is not done, they will have to be changed at least once every 5 years. Therefore, in order to extend their service life, it is important to do the following:

Initially, even during the laying of the foundation, it is necessary to ensure the ventilation of the floors - to make small vents on opposite sides of the basement.
It is necessary to leave two more ventilation holes near the opposite walls of the steam room - for fresh air. And so that a rodent does not accidentally enter the bath, these windows are usually closed with bars.
During the installation of the furnace, it is important to make sure that the level of the finished floor is slightly higher than the blower - then it will work as a hood.
Boards should be laid so that there are gaps between them from 0.5 to 1 cm.
At the end of the bath procedures, the floors must be dried well - every time.

You can also make ventilation “according to Bast” in the bathhouse: arrange an influx of fresh air under the stove, and exhaust from the ceiling directly opposite the door in the corner. For this, a special exhaust box is used - it can be made from a board and sheathed inside with foil

Correct direction of air flow

Under the floor, the veterinary duct must be made directly right next to the metal sheet - it is he who protects the floors from fire. And the size of the box itself should not exceed the diameter of the chimney by 20%. In general, such a system is good - it is easy to regulate the flow of fresh air from the street, but the unpleasant smell no longer penetrates into the steam room.

If the firebox is located directly in the steam room, then this option is the most rational. Of course, the design turns out to be more complex - after all, two boxes already need to be installed in it: one to ensure the convection of air masses, the second - to burn firewood. And the channels themselves can be placed directly in the brick podium - if the furnace is installed.

5 popular device schemes to choose from

But the ventilation in the steam room should be thought out especially carefully - otherwise there will be no comfort from pleasant procedures. And you can provide it in different ways:

Option number 1. The inlet is located behind the stove, half a meter from the floor, while the outlet is on the opposite side, at a height of 30 cm. A fan is installed in it for forced air movement. In this option, the air warms up evenly - cool streams heat up from the furnace and go up, where they cool down and go down. There they are already brought out through the exhaust hole. And the lower it is, the stronger the air flow will be.

Option number 2. Both vents are on the same wall - opposite the stove. But the input is at the bottom, 30 cm from the floor, and the output is at the top, 30 cm from the ceiling. Here, a fan is also placed in the outlet. But the flow pattern is somewhat different: cold air enters the steam room, hits the stove, heats up and rushes up - into the hood and out.

Option number 3. In this method, the inlet is behind the stove, at a height of 20 cm from the floor, and the outlet is at the same height, but on the opposite side. And here, too, a fan is placed. The whole system is quite simple: cold air enters the steam room, passes through the stove and is pulled out with the help of a fan.

Option number 4. This option is ideal for a steam room with floors where there are gaps for water to flow out. The inlet behind the stove at a height of 30 cm from the floor, the air that has cooled down, goes down and penetrates through the floor, and then through the ventilation pipe is discharged into the street.

Option number 5. This method is for those baths where the stove is constantly working. The inlet is opposite the stove, 30 cm from the floor, and the chimney and the firebox with a blower act as an exhaust hood.

If you need to raise the temperature in the steam room or increase the amount or saturation of steam, then it will be enough to close the inlets with plugs. And after the end of the procedures - remove the plugs. And it's easier than pressing the buttons on some remote control to a complex and expensive ventilation system. This is how the ventilation of the bath is done with your own hands - nothing complicated!

In order for bath procedures to bring only benefit and pleasure, two conditions are necessary:

high level of temperature and humidity in the steam room;
the presence of a sufficient amount of oxygen.

These seemingly mutually exclusive tasks are solved by ventilation in the bathhouse in general and in the steam room in particular. Despite the fact that high humidity and temperature should be maintained in the steam room of the Russian bath, one cannot do without access to fresh (cold) air: oxygen is processed by our lungs, partially burned out by the stove, and carbon monoxide (CO is the chemical formula carbon monoxide).

How to make ventilation in the bath. In the figure, red arrows show the movement of hot air, blue - cold

If you do not organize the replacement of “exhausted” air with fresh air, instead of improving health and increasing efficiency (this is what we go to the bath for), you can get lethargy, weakness and headache at best, and at worst - a hospital bed or even a place in the cemetery.

Properly arranged ventilation provides air circulation, while oxygen enters in sufficient quantities, and carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide are released into the atmosphere. After the end of the bath procedures, with good ventilation, the steam is actively removed outside the building, and the rooms in which there was previously high humidity dry out. If this aspect was not given sufficient attention, after a couple of years in the steam room, and then in other rooms, the lining rots, the smell of mustiness and sweat appears and gradually increases, and the wood turns into dust. Now, I hope, it is clear whether ventilation is needed in the bath ...

Heating and ventilation of the bath. Please note that the exhaust hole is located at a low height from the floor - as a rule, not higher than 50 cm. With this scheme, exhaust steam is emitted into the atmosphere. Moreover, the floor in the steam room warms up well

Ventilation in the bath is not needed in only one case: if it is all built of wood and has not been insulated anywhere - neither inside nor outside. In this case, air exchange occurs due to the fact that the wood "breathes". Even in this case, they talk about the presence of natural ventilation in the bath: any wood has pores and cracks through which the outflow / inflow of air occurs, temperature and humidity are regulated. But if there is insulation or moisture / vapor insulation in the bath from rounded logs, then the creation of additional ventilation holes is necessary.

There are three types of ventilation:

mechanical ventilation. In this case, the inflow and outflow of air masses occurs due to artificially created air movement. Air parameters are controlled by technical means.
Natural ventilation: circulation occurs due to the difference in pressure inside and outside the room. This method is possible only if there are "breathing" walls or thoughtfully arranged ventilation vents.
Combined ventilation: the simultaneous use of the natural movement of air masses and technical devices (in the simplest case, fans).

The video below shows a variant of combined ventilation.

In a specific case, 100 micron aluminum foil was used in the construction of the ventilation duct.

Bath ventilation device

In the simplest version, the ventilation system of a steam room or bath consists of two (sometimes more) holes in the walls and / or foundation: supply and exhaust. The whole trick is in choosing the location of these holes and in their sizes. Sometimes, to provide more active air exchange, fans can be installed.

Heating and ventilation of the bath. In the simplest case, the exhaust vent is located near the ceiling

There is no single ventilation scheme for a bath: they are too different both in design features and in the materials from which they are made. But there are general rules and some of the most common schemes, adhering to which, you can choose the optimal ventilation for your particular case.

The dimensions of the ventilation openings are calculated based on the volume of the steam room: for one cubic meter of ventilated area, the size of the openings should be 24 cm 2.

Despite the fact that the main task in the bath is to maintain high humidity in the steam room and a sufficient level of temperature, it is impossible to make the ventilation holes too small: they will not provide the necessary level of air exchange. Exhaust vents must match the size of the supply: if the proportions are violated, air exchange will also be insufficient. In some cases, to speed up the removal of exhaust air and speed up the drying of the bath, two exhaust holes can be made.

To ensure the required air conditions when heating the steam room, special covers / plugs are made on the ventilation ducts that can be opened / closed from the steam room, thereby regulating humidity / temperature / air exchange. Generally speaking, the presence of plugs or covers on any vent facing the street is a must: in winter, cold air actively rushes into a warm room and the presence of covers or regulators to stop it is necessary.

Where can there be supply and exhaust openings

Most often, at least partially located in the steam room. In this case, the supply hole is made near the furnace at a distance no higher than 30 cm from the floor. The incoming cold air quickly warms up from the furnace and rises. This is quite popular, but not the best way to organize ventilation for a bath. Ventilation is much more effective when the supply holes are located in the foundation under the floor (so that rodents do not penetrate through them, the holes are equipped with metal bars). This option solves two problems at once: it delivers fresh air to the bath, and also effectively dries the floors and walls after the procedures are completed. Floor boards, in this case, are not laid close, but with a small gap for free passage of air. If you don’t want to leave gaps in the floor (although this is very good for a bath), you can make several ventilation holes in the floor, covered with wooden grates. The air movement in this case will not be so active, more powerful fans may be needed, but the circuit will remain operational.

When planning the supply vents in the foundation, keep in mind that the air in the bath should come from the street, and not from the underground, otherwise it will have a musty smell. To organize air intake from the street, a box made of wood (often home-made), plastic or metal (ready-made) is placed in the hole, and it is also taken out near the stove. Usually, the inlets are located in the area that is protected by a metal or asbestos sheet from coals and firebrands.

Ventilation openings in the foundation are provided at the planning stage. If the foundation is already ready, but there are no ventilation holes, you can make the floor ventilation in the steam room differently: lay the floor boards on the logs, but not close to each other, but with a gap of 0.5-1 cm. In the gap between the draft (earth / concrete) floor and the finishing floor, an outlet is arranged, which passes into a ventilation pipe that leads the exhaust air to the roof (but not to the attic). This option provides for the presence of only one inlet, which is usually arranged below the heater. The exhaust pipe under the floor is installed on the opposite side of the room (but not opposite, but obliquely).

It is impossible to make an exhaust pipe in a steam room from plastic boxes for ventilation - they cannot withstand high temperatures, but it is permissible to use them in a locker room or washing department.

With such a ventilation scheme in the steam room, cold air warms up near the stove, rises, then, cooling down, falls down, seeps through the cracks in the floor under the floor and is discharged through the outlet pipe. These two options effectively remove moisture after the bath, they can also be considered floor ventilation schemes in the bath.

Exhaust openings can be located on the opposite wall from the supply opening (if both of these walls face the street) or on the same wall, but in the opposite corner. There is a scheme in which they are located at the top on the opposite wall (30 cm from the ceiling), sometimes they are located below (30 cm from the floor). If the exhaust vent is at the bottom or on the same wall as the supply vent, a fan is needed to create airflow.

In order for the ventilation in the bath to remain effective, it is impossible:

make ventilation vents smaller than calculated ones;
to place the supply and exhaust openings one opposite the other - so the incoming air is almost immediately removed without giving up oxygen, a draft is formed, which is contraindicated for a bath.

Steam room ventilation schemes

Consider some of the most common options for ventilation in the steam room:

These are the most commonly used ventilation schemes for steam rooms in the bath, there are many more variations and combinations. Based on these four options for organizing ventilation, you can develop a scheme for your steam room.

Ventilation in the washing section of the bath

In the washing room, high humidity is a common thing, and so that the lining does not rot or an unpleasant smell appears, it is necessary to provide floor ventilation. It is arranged similarly to floor ventilation in a steam room: an exhaust hole is made between the rough and finishing floors, which can be equipped with a fan. The exhaust pipe is displayed on the roof.

With such a floor ventilation scheme in the washing compartment, the coldest exhaust air is removed, and warmer air from the upper layers descends in its place. Thus, an increase in the comfort of the people living here is also achieved.

The principle of the ventilation device in all other rooms of the bath is the same. You need to decide on the optimal ventilation system specifically for your conditions and select / develop the most suitable scheme. The ventilation in the washing department differs only in that, due to lower air temperatures, plastic ventilation ducts can be used here (which cannot be done in the steam room) and fans can be installed not heat-resistant, but only tolerant of high humidity (moisture-proof).

Brick and Turkish bath ventilation

When planning a ventilation system for a brick bath, it must be taken into account that its efficiency should be several times higher than that of a wooden one. Indeed, in this case, it will be necessary to dry not only the inner lining of the steam room / washing / locker room, but also the walls: brick is a very hygroscopic material. To remove all moisture, it is necessary that the inflow / outflow of air during drying be very active, and the vents should have reliable dampers that allow you to adjust the intensity of air movement.

When arranging ventilation with its 100% humidity, exhaust ventilation must also be very efficient: in an hour of operation, it is necessary to ensure six changes of air in the room. In addition, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of removing condensate, which forms during cooling in large quantities. There are two ways to solve this problem: install an air dryer in the pipe, which discharges condensate into the sewer system, or provide a channel for condensate drainage in the ventilation pipe (it also goes into the sewer).

Conclusion: it is necessary to plan ventilation at the design stage of the bath, placing supply vents in the foundation. If necessary, you can make vents in the finished walls, but this is quite troublesome and difficult.

Among the most important indicators of the Russian bath, they traditionally name the temperature and the level of humidity, forgetting about another fundamental indicator - air exchange. This is very reckless, because even if you carefully insulate the room and achieve comfortable humidity, staying in a steam room with stale air will not only be uncomfortable, but also dangerous. If you want to avoid such a fate, take care of the ventilation in the steam room in advance. You can even equip such a system with your own hands - let's take a closer look at how to do it right.

Before proceeding to a description of the features of the direct technological process, let's first clarify why ventilation is necessary in the bath in the steam room. It is no secret that many skeptics consider its arrangement only an unjustified waste of time and money, but this is far from the case - the lack of a ventilation system can lead to at least three sharply negative consequences.

Types of ventilation systems for the steam room

Ventilation in the bath in the steam room can be of three types:

natural;
mechanical;
combined.

The natural system assumes that air circulation is provided by the difference in pressure and temperature levels in the steam room and on the street. The principle of operation here is simple: first, hot air rises to the upper zone of the steam room, and then leaves through the exhaust hole to the street, thereby discharging the atmosphere in the bath - this creates the conditions for drawing in new air through the supply hole. The advantage of such ventilation is minimal financial costs. But here one nuance must be taken into account: with insufficient insulation of the structure, the natural air duct will be an obstacle to high-quality heating of the bath.

Steam room ventilation scheme

Mechanical ventilation operates by means of special devices that control the exit of exhaust air and the supply of new air flows into the steam room. As a rule, various kinds of fans act as such devices. The advantage of the mechanical system is that ventilation equipment can be installed in almost any area of the room.

Advice. A classic duct fan is not suitable for a bath, as it will not endure the harsh conditions of a steam room - it is better to use special models made of glass-filled polyamide that can withstand high temperatures - up to 130 degrees.

Combined ventilation combines elements of both natural and mechanical systems. It functions in this way: mechanical devices are responsible for extracting the exhaust air, and fresh air enters through a separate supply opening.

Ventilation schemes

There are at least five working ventilation schemes that can be used in a steam room - choose a specific option based on the design features of your Russian bath.

The supply opening is behind the stove at a distance of 50 cm from the heater, and the exhaust opening is opposite, at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The air is removed forcibly - this is provided by a fan built into the lower opening.
The supply opening is behind the heater at a distance of 30 cm from the floor base, the exhaust opening is at a distance of 20 cm from the floor on the opposite wall. The air is forced out - with the help of a fan. The main feature of the scheme is a very high rate of heating of fresh air.

Bath ventilation systems

Both openings - both flow and exhaust - are placed on one side directly opposite the stove, but at different levels: the first is at a distance of 30 cm from the base of the floor, the second is 20 cm from the ceiling. The system operates using a fan, which is mounted in the exhaust opening.

Advice. Such a scheme is suitable for baths with an internal placement of a steam room - when the room has only one outer side.

The supply hole is behind the stove at a height of 20 cm from the base of the floor. There is no exhaust opening - instead, a special leaking floor is provided: the exhaust air masses pass through its slots to the ventilation pipe. Such a system guarantees the performance of an additional function - prompt drying of the floor.
The supply opening is opposite the stove at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The role of the exhaust hole is assigned to the blower. Such a scheme is suitable only for those baths where the heater operates continuously.

General rules for organizing ventilation in the steam room

Whichever version of the ventilation system you choose, you need to equip it according to certain rules.

Firstly, it is desirable to make all holes for ventilation even at the stage of building a bath, since punching channels in an already finished structure is a very difficult process. The ideal option is to decide on a suitable scheme during the design of a Russian bath in order to make all the necessary changes to the work plan in a timely manner.

Secondly, the dimensions of the exhaust opening should be approximately the same as the dimensions of the supply opening. In any case, the "output" should not be less than the "input", otherwise it will not be possible to ensure a full outflow of exhaust air from the steam room. And in order to speed up this process, it is allowed to increase the dimensions of the exhaust opening and even equip two “exits” in one room.

Make a valve to block the air flow in the cold season

Thirdly, in order to regulate the airflow of the steam room, all ventilation openings must be equipped with special shutters or shutters. They will come in handy in several situations: when heating the steam room, when the vents will need to be covered to quickly raise the temperature to the required level, as well as in the frosty season, when cold air will actively rush into a warm room.

Fourthly, the cross section of the ventilation hole should be related to the area of the steam room in the proportion: 1 cu. m area - 24 cm section. If the holes are small, the air in the room will not be able to quickly update.

Of course, organizing ventilation in the bath with your own hands is not an easy task. But it is fundamentally necessary: without air exchange, you can forget about the comfort, safety and durability of the steam room. Now you know the main rules and subtleties of this work - if you stick to them, you will definitely be able to make a high-quality ventilation system even without professional help.