Efficient ventilation for the kitchen in the apartment and private house. Connecting the hood in the kitchen to the ventilation - unpleasant odors will disappear forever! How to connect the corrugation to the hood in the kitchen

During cooking, soot appears in the kitchen, which settles on the walls and ceiling. The air is filled with harmful impurities and carcinogens, which are released with combustion products.

In order for soot from cooking, smoke and other unpleasant odors not to poison your life, you need to purchase and install a hood.

Connecting ventilation and a good hood will help get rid of these troubles. It is able not only to purify the air, but also to extend the life of furniture and finishes in the kitchen. How to connect the hood to the ventilation, what needs to be done for this - more on that later.

Types of exhaust devices

Choosing a hood and installing it in the kitchen must be deliberate. The stores have a huge range of these products and accessories for them. All of them are divided according to the principle of action into several types:

Hoods are island, corner, wall and built-in.

Classic devices during operation remove all polluted air from the room through a standard ventilation duct.
Recirculation hoods suck in dirty air, clean it with built-in filters and return the cleaned air back to the kitchen.
Combined type hoods are able to work on the principle of both classic appliances and in filtration mode.

The installation method of hoods divides these devices into categories:

Embedded appliances. They are designed to be installed inside kitchen furniture, which is located above the stove.
Hanging devices. Such hoods are suspended above the stove.
Wall devices. The name itself indicates that they are mounted on the wall.
island units. Not quite familiar, as they are attached to the ceiling approximately in the middle of the kitchen.
Corner hoods. Their usual location is the corner of the kitchen.

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The right choice of device

Each kitchen requires the connection of an extractor hood of a certain power, on which the performance of the device depends. Productivity is the amount of air in cubic meters that the hood can pass in an hour of operation. In Russia, standards have been established according to which a complete renewal of the air in the kitchen should occur 12 times within an hour. Calculating this value is simple: multiply the volume of the room by 12. You need to add 30% to this figure. This is a compensation for losses in the duct due to its length, bends and other reasons.

A specific example: the width of the kitchen is 3 m, the length is 4 m, the height to the ceiling is 3 m. The volume of the room will be 3x4x3 = 36 m³. This figure is multiplied by 12 and it turns out 36x12 = 432 m³. You need to add 30% to this figure, you get 432 + 30% = 561.6 m³. This volume of air must be pumped by the hood to ensure the normal state of the air in the kitchen.

When choosing a device, not the last place is occupied by the indicator of the noise level emitted by the hood. If it exceeds 50 dB, it is better to abandon such a device. There are many models that work almost silently.

Built-in hood device: 1 - control panel; 2 - body; 3 - reusable grease-catching aluminum filters; 4 - lighting lamps; 5 - sliding panel.

Air duct for the kitchen, you can choose plastic or corrugated. Plastic is usually made of PVC. The pipes are very light and strong. The air passes through them silently, since the walls of the pipes are smooth inside. The corrugated aluminum pipe can be bent freely, it does not buzz or vibrate during the operation of the hood. The disadvantage of this material is not a very attractive look. Such pipes are usually hidden behind drywall panels, if possible.

When choosing a hood, you should pay attention to some nice additions that some models are equipped with:

An indicator that shows the degree of clogging of the filter in the recirculation device.
Built-in lamps illuminating the work area.
The system automatically turns on the hood when you turn on the stove.
Timer. It can be set for a certain time, after which the device will turn off the network.
Switching on and off with the remote control.
Possibility to choose different operating modes of the device.

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How to properly mount the hood?

Any hood is mounted in compliance with certain rules. Only in this case can the safety and stability of its work be ensured. The device is installed in most cases above the stove at a height of 70-85 cm from its surface. If the distance is shorter, the hood may fail due to overheating. If it is mounted very high, then its effectiveness will significantly decrease. The width of the exhaust device cannot be less than the width of a gas or electric stove. This size must be taken into account when choosing and purchasing a device.

Connecting a recirculation hood is the easiest option. These devices do not remove polluted air to the outside. They only filter it, all particles of soot and soot remain in the filter material, and the purified air enters the kitchen again. There is no need to connect the device to the ventilation system. The device is simply firmly attached to the wall and connected to the electrical network through a socket pre-installed near the stove.

Installing a device that completely removes polluted air through a ventilation system is a much more difficult task. The hood must not only be attached to the wall, but also connected to the channel of the ventilation system. If the stove is located far from the ventilation shaft, but close to the window, then it is possible to equip the outlet of polluted air to the outside through a specially made hole in the wall. This will be easier than pulling long ducts through the kitchen, which do not add beauty and grace to the room.

In typical apartments, the task is simplified by the fact that special adapters, pipes and clamps sold in stores are great for connecting the hood to ventilation. It remains only to connect them tightly enough to each other. When doing work, you need to follow a few rules:

The pipe coming from the hood must not completely cover the ventilation duct. It should ventilate the kitchen area naturally while the hood is turned off.
The air duct leading to the vent from the hood must be installed in such a way that the free passage of polluted air is ensured.
The number of turns and the total length of the duct should be kept to a minimum. Approximately 10% of the exhaust power is consumed for each bend in the duct.
Pipes are better to choose plastic. They have completely smooth inner walls. Corrugated pipes with their ribbed surface delay the air flow. They make a lot of noise.
All necessary turns of the duct should be made as smooth as possible.
The room must be constantly supplied with fresh air from the street.
The optimal diameter of the duct pipes is 12-15 cm.

High-quality air exchange of the kitchen plays a key role in the ventilation of the apartment. Without fail, the kitchen has at least one entrance to the exhaust shaft of the building. The grille for the entrance to the exhaust duct is located in the upper area of the wall. Natural classical ventilation provides for the movement of air entering the apartment towards the kitchen and its exit to the exhaust shaft. Therefore, the kitchen door must have a gap with the floor or be equipped with a supply type grate. Cooking is accompanied by the release of a large amount of steam, fat, soot, various odors. Passive air exchange does not guarantee comfortable, safe conditions for health. The best solution to problems would be ventilation in the kitchen with an extractor hood, which allows you to quickly and efficiently select polluted air.

Types of kitchen hoods

Among the huge variety of kitchen hoods according to the principle of operation, it is worth highlighting:

flow models - remove polluted air from the kitchen;
recirculating products - they clean the air using a two-stage filter system and return it to the kitchen;
combined devices - allow the use of both recirculation and flow modes.

For combined and flow products, it is necessary to correctly connect the hood in the kitchen to the ventilation, and recirculation models require only a power supply.

Recirculation hoods: features

Recirculating hoods do not require air ducting, but do not protect against CO. Therefore, it is better to use flow or combined models. However, when installing them, the problem arises of how to connect the hood in the kitchen to ventilation at the lowest cost.

When installing a kitchen hood, it is necessary to ensure the optimal height above the hob:

from 65 to 75 cm - when using electric stoves;
from 75 to 85 cm - for gas stoves.

For effective use, the area of the suction panel of the hood must be larger than the area of \u200b\u200bthe stove .

Exhaust ventilation works

When deciding how to bring the hood into the ventilation in the kitchen, you can use three options. There are special combined gratings that allow you to connect an exhaust device to the entrance to the ventilation shaft. However, their use reduces the efficiency of air exchange.

The hood should not cover the natural ventilation grill, as this disrupts the air exchange of the apartment.

Some projects of new houses are equipped with separate exhaust shafts specially designed for connecting kitchen hoods. In this case, the connection is simplified. However, there are few such houses.

The best choice that solves the problem is to make a hole in the outer wall.

At the same time, the air outlet route has an optimal configuration, a minimum length, and ventilation under the hood in the kitchen will be performed with the least resistance. Such an opening must be equipped with a check valve that blocks the path of cold air.

Also install a protective grill and a visor.

They sell serial deflectors that combine a visor, a check valve and a grille in one unit. It is possible to independently make a hole in the wall or order such a hole from specialized companies.

There is special equipment for making external holes with diamond drills, equipped with industrial vacuum cleaners to minimize dust emissions.

Hood installation requirements

The installed hood and ventilation in the kitchen must meet the following key rules:

masters clearly fulfill all the requirements of equipment passports;
the horizontal position of the hood is set according to the level;
for the connection route, air ducts of the same diameter are selected;
during operation, the number of constrictions that significantly increase the noise level is minimized;
do not allow turns with an angle greater than ninety degrees;
the number of turns should be the least;
a maximum of three turns are allowed when ducting;
with a route length of more than three meters, a second exhaust fan is required;
during operation, the track is cleaned a couple of times a year.

Selection of air duct material

Flexible ducts are often used as route material. based on aluminum foil. They simplify installation and, thanks to the possibility of rotation, eliminate the need for bends and adapters. Fastening to the hood is carried out with clamps, and to the outlet with a grate.

It is important to stretch such an air duct as much as possible during installation in order to avoid. It also requires frequent fixings during installation. The view of such a route does not decorate the design of the kitchen and it is desirable to close it with plastic boxes. With a considerable length, corrugated air ducts emit significant noise.

It is preferable to use plastic PVC air ducts. Their advantages include:

beautiful appearance, allowing you to abandon the outer boxes;
the ability to quickly and easily install a kitchen hood with ventilation;
low cost;
reduced resistance;
low noise during network operation;
availability of mass-produced knees, adapters, adapters;
light weight;
service convenience.

Reliable, beautiful, durable stainless air ducts. However, their length is difficult to adjust, and they are expensive.

How to connect a kitchen hood to ventilation

Consider step by step how to connect, with the least difficulty. Even when choosing a model, you should decide on the place of connection to the exhaust system. It may be necessary to make a hole in the outer wall.

Among the necessary tools:

ruler, tape measure;
drill;
sharp knife;
screwdrivers;
perforator.

After choosing the connection point and installing the hood, a route is outlined. The cross section of the connection duct is determined by the hood passport. Select the required adapters, elbows, pipes, clamps and mounting brackets, sealant, dowels, self-tapping screws. If necessary, install a separate outlet for connecting the hood.

The installation of the route is carried out in the following sequence:

installation of a check valve;
installation of air ducts;
their consolidation;
joint sealing.

After installing the duct network and connecting the power supply, a test run is carried out. The noise of the system during operation should not exceed the indicators of the hood passport.

About twenty or thirty years ago, a greasy ceiling and high humidity in the kitchen were the main accompanying troubles when cooking.

Let's not talk about the smell, because often it was pleasant and encouraged an increase in appetite. True, it was not always appropriate.

In those days, such problems were solved simply:

The ceiling surface is greasy - we will make repairs (whitewash);
It became very humid - let's open the window (it's a little cold, well, let's endure it);
Do not like the smell of burnt fat - go outside and walk.

In modern conditions, a person has become accustomed to convenience and comfort. Yes, and saving the family budget comes to the fore.

So every year to do repairs - no money is enough. In addition, no one whitens the ceiling in the kitchen.

Therefore, there is only one way out, in order to get rid of all the above troubles, you need to install a modern hood.

Immediately, we note that manufacturers offer two main models:

Closed loop.
With a system of removal outside the room (photo above).

The first model has a number of disadvantages and is connected only in cases where it is not possible to connect the device to the ventilation system at home. Therefore, the question of how to connect a hood in the kitchen is relevant today.

The nuances of installing a kitchen hood

The second model is the most efficient and optimal option. But, as practice shows, even in this seemingly simple process, there are pitfalls.

Firstly, the ease of installation is only apparent. Of course, you can use a simplified version and attach the hood using a corrugated pipe. But this is for those who do not think about the aesthetic side of things. Let's add here such an unpleasant moment - the corrugation makes noise during the operation of the air cleaner.
Secondly, just taking and connecting the purifier may not be enough. Sometimes it happens that you have to make changes to the design of the box itself. Here you will need some tool skills. These changes are necessary if the draft does not meet the required standards. In principle, the device itself should provide air ventilation in the kitchen without the help of a standard fan. But it happens (ventilation is clogged) that even the fan cannot cope with the air outlet. It often happens that a do-it-yourself hood creates such problems during operation that the time when it was not there at all seems like paradise to the owners.
Cone assembly. This is the simplest process in which several indicators and parameters will need to be taken into account. This is the height of the ceilings, the volume of the room, the intensity of air exchange. Here it is important to accurately fit the cone to the ventilation hole.
Power connection. The best option is if the air cleaner is connected to a power outlet, that is, to do without plugging it into a power outlet.

True, the price of the entire process will increase, but the safety and efficiency of the device is more expensive.

Attention! The distance from the surface of the hob to the air cleaner is called the lower limit. This indicator for gas stoves should be equal to 75 centimeters, and for electric stoves 65 centimeters.

In the event that the design project provides for a higher limit, then it is necessary to purchase a hood with a larger filtration area.

But it makes no sense to do this, because larger devices are more expensive, and, secondly, the efficiency even in this case will be less. Therefore, first of all, you will have to insist that the designer take into account these parameters.

Everything, the same, applies to furniture, because very often, in order to hide the air outlet pipe, you have to lay it through a wall cabinet. Therefore, through holes are made in it.

In order not to suffer from this problem yourself, it is necessary to agree when ordering furniture that everything be done in the workshop. But at the same time, you must accurately indicate the location of the holes.

Types of hoods by installation method

There are five types of air cleaners, the installation of which determines the surface on which they will be mounted.

Suspended hoods. They are usually installed above the stove under the wall cabinet.
Embedded . Their location is inside the hanging cabinet. It’s convenient, it’s not visible, but such a connection for a kitchen hood requires both time and patience, because fastenings inside the cabinet are not provided. Here it is necessary to accurately set both the cabinet itself and the hood, not only in level, but also in height. Fastening is carried out either with self-tapping screws, or with a special bolted connection.
Wall mounted air cleaners. Everything is simple here, they are installed to the wall and fastened with special screws or dowels.
Angular. I think everything is clear here.
Island. They are suspended from the ceiling using all kinds of fasteners and suspensions that come with the device. Compliance fastening is made to the ceiling surface.

How to connect a recessed hood

To do this, first of all, you will have to drill holes in the furniture for the exhaust duct (corrugated hose or flat PVC channel).
After that, the locker is installed in place to the required height. The air cleaner is built into the cabinet, and the air duct is inserted into the hole. They are connected to each other with a special clamp, which is not included in the kit, so buy it in advance.
The diameter of the clamp must correspond to the diameter of the connecting elements. Please note that the junction of the air duct and the adapter flange of the hood must be coated with sealant to create tight connections.

How to connect the wall option

It's practically the same here, only without the furniture. The elements are connected using a clamp and sealant. But the hood itself must be attached to the wall.

There are mounting holes on the device, therefore, first it is applied to the wall exactly at the required height, and marks are made through the holes.

Then holes are drilled according to the marks, where dowels and self-tapping screws are inserted (instructions for use are included in the kit).

The hood is hung on them. The most important thing is that you will have to strengthen the air duct to the wall. Usually one clamp is sufficient.

Everyone knows that good ventilation in the kitchen is an essential element of a healthy microclimate in an apartment or private house. In addition to the traditional natural ventilation duct located under the ceiling, it is now customary to install a kitchen hood over the stove and / or a kitchen exhaust fan duct hole. However, not everyone understands that an illiterate forced exhaust can not only not give the desired effect, but also significantly worsen the functioning of the natural ventilation system. Consider how to make the hood in the kitchen in an apartment or house efficient and safe.

During the cooking process, various harmful substances are released into the air. They can be divided into two groups: deadly and just very harmful.

Comfortable ventilation in the apartment as a whole and in the kitchen in particular is a guarantee of cleanliness and well-being

Dangerous "kitchen" pollution

Carbon monoxide (carbon monoxide, CO) is a poisonous substance that, in high concentrations, first leads to poisoning, then to death. The owners of electric stoves have nothing to worry about, such appliances are not a source of CO.

Carbon monoxide is produced by burning natural or biogas, cooking in a traditional wood-fired oven. Carbon monoxide is especially dangerous, and because it has no smell, a person may not feel its presence and accumulation in the room. Carbon monoxide is not absorbed by charcoal filters, the hood turned on in air filtering mode is useless in combating CO.

Carbon monoxide poisoning is very dangerous. More people die from it in their homes than from the fire of fires, tsunamis, floods and earthquakes combined

Each time you turn on a gas burner or water heater, a small amount of unburned natural gas enters the room. A normally functioning natural ventilation system is designed for this level of gas emission and copes well with it.

Another thing is if there is a leak from gas equipment or pipelines. Household gas itself has no smell, but a “stinky” fragrance, ethyl mercaptan, is added to it. Feeling the "smell of gas", you must immediately open the windows and call the emergency service.

The installation of gas leakage and CO sensors will help to significantly increase the safety of people when using gas equipment. In case of danger, sensors can emit a shrill signal, or control a servo that automatically turns off the flow of gas from the main and notifies the emergency service of the problem.

The gas leak sensor is able to timely detect a dangerous concentration of natural gas, propane or butane in the air and signal this

Harmful pollution in the kitchen

Kitchen fumes released when food is fried. It is airborne volatile particles, mainly oils and fats. After strong heating in a frying pan, harmless food substances acquire properties that are harmful to humans, up to carcinogenic. At best, dirt and soot settles on the walls, furniture and dishes, at worst - in our lungs.

Water vapor is also generated during cooking. It is, of course, practically harmless compared to other types of pollution. But there is no benefit from evaporation, excessive moisture does not improve the microclimate in the room.

Vapors generated during cooking are not beneficial to the body

From the above, we can conclude that efficient, constantly functioning kitchen ventilation is extremely important. If for owners of electric stoves this is a matter of hygiene and cleanliness in the room, then for those who use a gas stove (stove, wood-burning oven) for cooking indoors, this is a safety issue.

Owners of gas stoves should pay close attention to the performance of the ventilation system, periodically check the presence of draft in the ventilation duct. If in the kitchen, in addition to the stove, a geyser or a heating boiler is installed, the normal functioning of natural exhaust ventilation becomes even more important.

Kitchen ventilation systems: natural or forced

Many consumers are wondering: which hood in the kitchen is better, natural or forced? Answer: both are better. Natural and forced drafts, although they serve a common purpose, do not replace one another. Mandatory for a kitchen in an apartment or a private house is a natural ventilation system. We repeat, the presence and performance of a natural ventilation system is of particular importance for a room with gas appliances.

Forced exhaust ventilation for the kitchen is a good thing, even very good. But optional. It can be argued that natural ventilation provides more safety, and forced ventilation provides comfort.

Ventilation in the kitchen with an extractor hood is an element of the general ventilation system in an apartment or house

Let us consider in more detail the possibilities of different types of ventilation, their design, advantages and disadvantages.

Natural ventilation in the kitchen

The natural ventilation system is well known to all apartment owners through the channels in the wall of the kitchen and bathroom, going to the roof of the house. Harmful gases and polluted air are removed through the ventilation duct, fresh air enters through cracks in the windows or special ventilation valves in the walls or window frames. Warm air heated on the stove, due to its lower density, naturally tends to escape from the room up to the street, where the temperature is lower.

Natural ventilation in a private house in the kitchen, bathroom, furnace removes polluted air through vertical channels to the roof. Fresh comes from the street through windows or valves in the walls

Properly arranged ventilation with natural draft removes a relatively small amount of air per unit time, but it does it all the time. The ventilation duct, located under the ceiling, is able to cope with even a small leak of natural gas, which is lighter than air and rises to the ceiling.

Carbon monoxide, which is formed in relatively small quantities from the working burners of a gas stove, is also quite successfully removed by natural ventilation. Somewhat worse, natural ventilation removes kitchen odors and excess moisture when cooking at moderate intensity.

It is necessary to periodically, at least once a month, check the presence of sufficient draft in the ventilation duct. You can check this without special devices: if a sheet of paper “sticks” to the hole, there is traction.

What is good and what is bad in such a system:

Advantages of a natural ventilation system

Ventilation with natural draft functions constantly with rare exceptions (see below, in the "cons").

Provides general ventilation of the dwelling in combination with ventilation ducts in the bathrooms.

Copes with the main types of hazardous contaminants emitted during cooking. Provides safety in the event of a small gas leak. Natural ventilation acceptably removes kitchen odors and excess moisture when cooking at moderate intensity.

Natural ventilation is "free". In an apartment or a private house built in accordance with building codes, it is available by default. There is no equipment that would require repair. Electricity is not required.

Silent operation.

Disadvantages of natural ventilation

In hot weather and in the off-season, with a sudden warming of the outside air after prolonged cold weather, the efficiency of the natural ventilation system drops sharply. Under adverse circumstances, a reverse movement of air may occur: it will begin to flow through the channel from the street into the room. For a kitchen with a gas stove installed, this can be quite dangerous, especially if you have a gas water heater. In the heat and during a sudden thaw, it is recommended to ventilate the room through open windows.

Natural ventilation removes a relatively small volume of air per unit time. If the owners decide to fry a full frying pan of cracklings, the ventilation system will not cope and the persistent kitchen “aroma” will instantly spread throughout all the rooms.

Ventilation works normally only if there is sufficient air flow from outside. Modern plastic windows, adjusted "for the winter", are practically airtight when fully closed. To ensure the outflow of air into the channel, it is necessary to slightly open the windows during cooking, at least in the micro ventilation mode.

The ventilation duct may be clogged with snow, debris. Selfish and technically illiterate neighbors from above can block the ventilation of the lower tenants by arranging a niche for a refrigerator in their kitchen by removing the ventilation shaft or part of it.

It is necessary to regularly check the draft and, if necessary, clean the ventilation ducts.

How to make natural ventilation in the kitchen

There is ventilation for the kitchen in an apartment built in accordance with the standards, you just need to check its performance. But how to make natural ventilation in a private house? Ventilation ducts should be located in "dirty" rooms: kitchen, toilet, bathroom, furnace, utility room, bath. In order to ventilate the whole house, and not just the kitchen, air must be supplied from “clean” rooms: living room, dining room, bedrooms.

Designing ventilation, if everything is done in accordance with building and hygiene standards, involves the calculation of many system parameters. When determining the section of ventilation ducts, the type of installed equipment, the volume of premises, the structure of the building, and the climatic conditions of the area are taken into account.

The calculation is difficult for a non-specialist, those who wish to delve into the topic can study SP 60.13330.2012, 54.13330.2011, 62.13330.2012, 131.13330.2012, 7.13130.2011 and SanPiN 2.1.2.2645-10. We will give only the main recommendations, which, in our opinion, are sufficient for the installation of natural ventilation in most private houses:

If there are four hotplates, the volume of air to be removed must be at least 90 m3/h. To do this, it is enough to bring a vertical exhaust duct with a cross section of at least 0.02 m2 to the roof. This corresponds to a circular channel with a diameter of 16 cm or a square one with a size of 14x14 cm (in half a brick). More is possible, less is not.

The entrance to the channel should be located on the wall at a distance of 15-30 cm from the ceiling or on the ceiling itself. The last option can be implemented in a private house.

In order for the natural draft to be sufficiently stable, the channel must be relatively high. Optimum traction is provided with a channel height of at least 5 meters. In addition, it should not be cold. In a channel located outside the building and not insulated, in the cold season, the draft will be weak or not at all. In a private house, ventilation ducts are best placed in the center of the house, closer to the ridge.

Forced exhaust ventilation

A ventilation system where polluted air is removed by a fan is called forced ventilation. Kitchen exhaust fans can be installed in various ways:

Mount directly on the existing vertical natural exhaust ventilation duct going to the roof.

Make a hole in the outer wall where the exhaust fan will throw polluted air directly from the room.

Modern equipment allows you to drill holes of the desired section in the outer walls quickly and without dust

You can hang a wall-mounted kitchen hood with a built-in fan above the stove. Bring the air duct from the hood into the existing ventilation duct or into an additional hole in the wall.

Insert a fan into the “Soviet-style” window vent, you get a simple and cheap window hood.

Advantages and disadvantages of forced ventilation

Forced draft ventilation, when properly designed, has a high performance and is potentially capable of quickly removing significant volumes of polluted air during intensive cooking.

A kitchen hood installed directly above the stove will remove most of the dirt before it enters the room. As a result, cleaning the kitchen will become much easier.

Polluted air is removed only while the extractor fan in the kitchen is running.

A forced system costs money: a kitchen fan or extractor hood with a fan, their maintenance and the electricity spent have their price.

How to properly install an exhaust fan on a natural ventilation duct

When installing a fan, the following points must be considered:

If the kitchen exhaust fan has a non-return valve that prevents air from entering the room from the duct into the room when the fan is not running, this valve must be removed. Otherwise, the work of the natural hood will be disrupted.

An ordinary cheap household axial fan is not designed to remove air from a vertical duct. The performance indicated in the passport (the volume of air removed per unit of time) will be realized only if the fan removes air from a horizontal channel, and even then it is not very long.

When connected to a natural exhaust, it will be difficult for an inexpensive fan to overcome the resistance of friction and the air column, its performance will noticeably drop compared to the declared one. The higher the channel, the greater the drop.

Axial fan is structurally simple and cheap

There are special household centrifugal fans designed to operate in vertical ducts. The drop in performance depending on the channel height is not as great as that of axial ones. The actual performance when working in a vertical channel will be close to the declared one.

Centrifugal exhaust fans for the kitchen can be built-in or overhead. Disadvantages of centrifugal fans: high price (they are five times more expensive than axial fans) and relatively large dimensions.

The centrifugal exhaust fan in the kitchen has a more complex design than the axial version. An axially-rotated impeller with many blades is capable of generating significant air pressure, which makes it possible to overcome resistance with little loss of performance when air is removed into a high vertical channel. The maximum performance of centrifugal fans is lower than that of axial fans with a motor of the same power. But in difficult working conditions, their capabilities are more fully realized.

So, an axial fan is cheap, but it is of little use when installed on a natural ventilation channel. Centrifugal is efficient, but expensive. A suitable alternative is to install the fan in a horizontal duct leading through the outer wall. In this case, you can use a cheap axial exhaust fan without compromising its performance.

Graph of the performance of household fans with motors of similar power depending on the pressure (height of the vertical channel). Left - axial, right - centrifugal fan. As can be seen from the graphs, when overcoming a pressure of 40 Pa (approximately corresponds to a channel 25 m high), the performance of an axial fan will drop by 80%, and that of a centrifugal fan by only 20%. That is, in these specific conditions (the second floor of the "nine-story building"), the "centrifugal" is four times superior to the "axial" in terms of efficiency

When the channel is led through the wall, it is obligatory to install a non-return valve at the outlet from the outside. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to drill a hole in the wall when it comes to a city apartment. But this is not a problem in a private house.

Features of installing a kitchen hood

We will not talk about how to mount a kitchen hood, this should be described in detail in the instructions for it. We only recall that it is necessary to strictly observe the indicated height of its placement relative to the countertop. We also note that the use of the hood in recirculation mode (without air removal), coupled with a carbon filter, will purify the air only from a part of aerosol particles, mainly fats. The products of gas combustion will remain in the room. In addition, the carbon filter, which costs some money, clogs up quite quickly and needs to be replaced.

Above the gas stove, the hood should be located higher than above the electric

Let's name the main features that should be considered when choosing and connecting a kitchen hood:

A kitchen exhaust fan, like a household fan installed on a duct, can also have an axial or centrifugal design. Expensive hoods that use centrifugal fans do a good job of removing air through a vertical channel, the loss in performance is tolerable.

In cheap hoods, axial fans are often installed; when connected to a vertical channel, they are ineffective. Full operation of the hood with an axial fan is only achieved when the air is removed through a short horizontal duct through the outer wall.

When connecting the hood to a vertical channel of natural ventilation, it is recommended to remove the check valve on it, if any. In a horizontal duct, a valve is obligatory at the outlet to the outside. It is better to leave it on the hood.

The cross section of the ventilation duct must not be less than the cross section of the outlet from the hood. You can switch from round pipes to rectangular ones, the main thing is not to narrow the section.

It does not matter what shape the air ducts will have to connect the hood, the main thing is not to reduce the cross section of the channel

When connecting the hood to a vertical duct, it should not interfere with the normal operation of natural ventilation. By the way, many people do not take this requirement into account, and, unfortunately, most of the hoods in our homes are installed incorrectly. We will devote the next section to the question of how to properly connect the hood to the ventilation in the kitchen.

How to connect the pipe from the kitchen hood to the natural ventilation channel

From the outlet of the kitchen hood, we need to stretch a pipe of the appropriate section and insert it into the hole in the wall leading to the vertical channel of the natural ventilation system. In practice, this is done in different ways:

Sometimes only a pipe supplying air from the hood is connected to the vertical channel, completely closing the hole from the room. It is absolutely impossible to do this, because the work of natural ventilation will be disrupted.

An example of how in no case should you connect a kitchen hood: a room with a gas stove is deprived of normal natural ventilation. Even if the hood did not forget to remove the check valve, the natural suction of air above the stove will be weakened due to the additional resistance to air movement that has arisen. In addition, harmful gases that accumulate near the ceiling will not be removed at all.

Many sellers of building materials and finishers recommend connecting the hood to a natural ventilation system through a two-hole adapter plate. One of them is designed to connect the hood, the second opens from the channel into the room. It seems that the hood was provided and natural ventilation was preserved. Actually it is not. Firstly, during the operation of the hood, almost all of the removed air is returned back to the room. It is much easier for him to exit back through the nearby opening than to climb the channel.

Frequently used connection of the air duct from the hood (1) to the natural ventilation duct (3) through an adapter with two holes. While the hood is not working, the outflow of air from the room is carried out through the second hole (2). But when the hood is turned on, most of the air it removes is returned to the room.

Secondly, the cross section of the hole for natural exhaust is reduced, unless it is specially expanded. Connection via a two-hole adapter is widely used, but we consider it incorrect due to its very low efficiency.

Widespread, but inefficient design for connecting the hood to the channel of the natural ventilation system

In order for both natural and forced ventilation from the hood to function fully, two requirements must be met:

While the hood is operating, the second opening must be closed so that the exhaust air is not thrown back into the room.

The total cross section of the grate openings for natural ventilation should not be less than the cross section of the vertical channel.

This can be achieved by increasing the area of \u200b\u200bthe natural ventilation grille and installing a check valve behind it so that it closes after the hood is turned on. The valve must be installed in such a way that the supporting air flow from the hood closes it, and when the hood is turned off, the valve opens automatically.

A non-return valve (5) was installed on the hole in the wall in the natural ventilation channel (4), which is open with a slight movement of air, but closes from a noticeable air flow. When the hood is turned on, it blocks the exit of air back into the room and it has to climb up the vertical channel to the roof

How to choose and install an air check valve when connecting the hood to the channel

For our purposes, of the many types of ventilation valves, only one is suitable - without a drive, without a spring, with a damper that is not divided into segments and its axis of rotation is shifted relative to the center of symmetry.

Of the three air valves shown, only the one on the left is suitable for our purposes.

After we have chosen and purchased the valve, we will have to tinker with installing it in the right position. In normal mode, the air valve should work like this: there is no air movement - the damper is closed, the air flow opens it. We need to get the opposite result: while the hood is not working, the valve should be fully open. When the hood is turned on, the air supply from inside the channel should close it. The relatively weak natural movement of air from the room into the duct should not affect the operation of the valve.

The principle of operation of the check valve when connecting the hood to the natural ventilation channel. The illustration shows a spring-loaded valve with a two-piece damper. Theoretically, this type of valve can be used for our purposes, but in practice it is not easy to choose it in such a way that the closing force and air pressure coincide.

In the normal position, such a valve in a horizontal channel is positioned in such a way that the damper mounting axis is placed horizontally, and the larger (and heavier) segment of the shutter “looks” down. In this case, the valve, if there is no air pressure, will be closed. We need to achieve the opposite, the valve must be open. This can be achieved in two ways:

Install the damper strictly horizontally so that the mounting axis is turned at an angle of 5-60º to the vertical, while the damper sector with the largest area should be at the top. The angle of inclination at which the damper will be fully open when the hood is not working will have to be selected empirically. The force to pull the damper and close the valve must be sufficient, a low-power hood may not provide it.

Variant of installation of the air damper with an inclination of the axis of rotation of the damper

When the valve is installed and adjusted, the vent can be covered with a grate

Position the axis of the valve strictly vertically, but tilt the valve itself slightly (by about 5º) towards the entrance to the natural ventilation channel. The larger segment of the shutter should "look" towards the channel. In this case, it will outweigh and the damper will open under its own weight, as crookedly hung doors open by themselves. The required effort to close the valve will be small, you can use the hood of any power.

The axis of rotation of the air valve is set strictly vertically, but it is slightly inclined towards the channel. Note how the valve was hidden in a cabinet for a built-in hood. The air in the locker will come from the hole in the top shelf

In the following video, you will learn how to connect a kitchen hood to an existing vertical duct using a non-return air valve, ensuring its maximum performance and without interfering with natural ventilation:

Centralized forced ventilation systems

It is worth mentioning the centralized ventilation systems. In office buildings and hotel complexes, a single ventilation system is often arranged that serves all the premises of the building. In housing, as a rule, ventilation is combined within an apartment or a private house.

Centralized forced ventilation can be exhaust, supply and exhaust and supply and exhaust with heat recovery. We are convinced that only the latter option is suitable for the domestic cold climate.

The supply and exhaust system with heat recovery is not cheap, but it gives a real return in the form of savings in heating costs and a favorable microclimate. Options without recovery at lower cost in our cold climate are ineffective.

In the supply and exhaust system, air is removed from the "dirty" rooms and supplied to the "clean" rooms through a system of ventilation ducts. The exhaust and fresh air "meet" in the heat exchanger, where the heat energy from the removed heated air is transferred to the cold air coming from the street. In this case, the air flows do not mix.

The principle of operation of the ventilation unit with a plate heat exchanger. Warm exhaust air and cold fresh air flow in opposite directions through a heat exchanger consisting of many plates made of a material with good heat transfer. Warm air, not in direct contact with cold air, gives it thermal energy

A properly designed and installed ventilation system with heat recovery ensures the transfer of up to 90% of thermal energy from warm air to cold air, which can significantly reduce heating costs and supply air at a comfortable temperature to the premises.

Supply and exhaust recuperative ventilation systems are best suited for modern energy-saving houses. In the Scandinavian countries, this type of ventilation has been mandatory for buildings under construction for more than a year, replacing natural exhaust.

The device of a centralized supply and exhaust ventilation system with heat recovery. The removed air is collected in the "dirty" rooms, fresh air heated in the heat exchanger is supplied to the "clean" rooms.

It is problematic to combine centralized ventilation systems with gas stoves. For a gas stove, you still have to do natural ventilation from the room or install complex emergency automation. It is difficult to adequately combine two different ventilation systems (with an exhaust hood - three) in one room. The electric stove does not create such problems.

Local forced ventilation devices (room ventilators)

Worthy of mention are local ventilation devices with heat recovery (room ventilator). Their principle of operation is similar to central systems: the outgoing air heats the incoming air. The ventilator provides ventilation in one separate room.

Some models resemble the internal blocks of split air conditioners in shape and dimensions. The illustration shows a Mitsubishi Electric Lossnay room ventilator. The circulation fan is located on the right side of the case, the paper heat exchanger is on the left. For its installation in the outer wall, it is necessary to drill two holes with a diameter of 8 cm.

Equipping a house or apartment with local forced ventilation with heat recovery is several times cheaper than installing a centralized system. And the level of comfort received is not much lower.

Local ventilation with recuperation is very good for living rooms. The ventilator in the kitchen will not interfere either, but still, natural ventilation and a powerful exhaust hood, brought out horizontally into the wall, will be more useful. When choosing local ventilation devices, preference should be given to those models in which the volume of supplied air exceeds the volume of removed air.

A popular and relatively inexpensive "breathing" room ventilator, where air is removed and supplied alternately through one channel. The ceramic heat exchanger accumulates heat while warm air passes through it and then releases it to cold air.

The procedure for changing the ventilation cycles of the "breathing" ventilator. Such a device is well suited for living rooms, but not for the kitchen.

What type of ventilation to choose for the kitchen in the house and apartment

Those who are building a solid country house or equipping an elite apartment, erecting an energy-saving building using the “passive house” technology, should pay attention to an expensive, but comfortable and economical system of forced ventilation with heat recovery. In the kitchen, you should install a powerful hood with an outlet to the wall, it is better (and healthier) to use an electric stove. If the house has a gas boiler, the room where it is installed must be equipped with a natural exhaust and autonomous air supply.

For those who build their own house more modestly and on a limited budget, we advise you to definitely provide vertical channels of natural ventilation in the kitchen, bathrooms, furnace, bathhouse, utility room and hallway, if clothes are dried there.

Ventilation in a private house in the kitchen should be supplemented by a hood over the stove with a separate air duct. It is best to bring the channel for removing air from the hood not to the roof, but through the outer wall to the street. Outside, a check valve should be installed to prevent the penetration of cold air inside. A fan on the natural ventilation channel should be placed in the toilet and bathroom; in the kitchen, if there is an extractor hood, this is not particularly necessary.

The duct from the hood is best taken outside through the outer wall

For an apartment, we recommend a similar option: natural ventilation (available by default), a good hood over the stove, a fan in the bathroom. It is advisable to bring the hood through the wall, if it doesn’t work out, follow the scheme described above with a check valve. An additional kitchen fan, in our opinion, is not needed.

Finally, we remind you once again that a properly selected and installed hood and fan for the kitchen will add comfort, but will not replace the natural ventilation system. And an incorrect connection of the hood can not only not improve, but also significantly worsen the ventilation. We recommend that you pay special attention to the issues of ventilation of premises, entrust its design and installation, connection of the hood only to competent craftsmen.

When choosing a hood, you need to keep in mind the dimensions and equipment of the kitchen for which it is intended.

The exhaust device should not be less in width than the surface of your stove.

Another point is the power of the unit. The larger the kitchen, the more powerful the hood should be..

We should not forget about the interior, the device should harmoniously fit into it. This is easy to achieve, since hoods can be made in various colors and modifications.

Kitchen hoods differ in installation options, they distinguish:

dome hoods― the most powerful, remind an umbrella from which the pipe departs;
built-in hoods- their chimney is retracted into the cabinet, and the hood panel itself can be pulled out at the time of direct cooking - an ideal solution for a small kitchen;
flat hoods- instead of an exhaust pipe, a filter is used, so the device is more compact, but less powerful.

At what height from the stove should it be installed?

This will depend on the hood model you have chosen.

Each of them has an instruction that says at what distance to mount the device.

Usually install a hood between 65 and 90 centimeters from the stove.

upper threshold can be optimized for your height, or rather, under the growth of the hostess who will cook.

Consider how to install the exhaust device, depending on the option chosen.

IMPORTANT! For an electric stove, the threshold is even lower, 65–70 centimeters, and for gas stoves, it is 75–90 centimeters higher.

How to install a dome hood in the kitchen?

A little about the dome hood options on the market. They are:

Fireplace (wall)― fasten on a wall. Similar in design to ventilation systems for fireplaces.
corner- are rarely found in kitchens, in the case when the stove is located in the corner.
Island― are established on big kitchens, mainly in dining rooms when the plate costs in the center of kitchen. Mounted directly to the ceiling.

These devices are made of enameled or stainless steel, much less often they are wooden or plastic.

The dome hood can operate in different modes. If an air duct is laid to the street, or to the ventilation system, then it simply removes air from the room.

It happens that it is impossible to conduct an air duct, then you can install a circulation unit, it will pass the air through the filter and return it back to the room.

There are also dome hoods that work in both versions.

In order to install a dome hood, you need bring the corrugation to the ventilation system of the building, connect the device to the electricity network.

It is possible that you will have to increase the corrugation or wiring, so it is better to enlist the help of professionals.

If you decide to do all the work yourself, then first equip the kitchen with furniture. And only after that it will be possible to work on marking the location of the hood, taking into account the height of its location.

Let's start preparing the fasteners. It is necessary to drill or gouge holes for dowels. Supports will be bolted to them, on which, in turn, the base of the exhaust device is put on.

Observing the utmost tightness, it is necessary connect a special exhaust outlet to the corrugation duct. Next, we check the performance of the device and put on the upper casing of the hood.

Given the rather large size and high power of this hood, it should be positioned as spacious kitchen appliance, with high performance meals.

How to install a built-in hood in a kitchen cabinet yourself?

Unlike the dome hood, whose characteristic umbrella we notice when entering the kitchen, the built-in hood mounted inside the kitchen cabinet.

In addition, the exhaust panel can be mounted on a pull-out mechanism, making it completely hidden.

We will consider the installation option without the "push in/out" function, as it requires more skills from the performer.

Four steps to installing a built-in hood:

In the same way, you can easily install a telescopic hood, which is essentially a conventional built-in hood, with some design features that are not related to installation issues.

In the video material below you can see an example of how a built-in hood is installed in the kitchen:

How to install (fix) a flat cooker hood?

Flat, or as it is also called, hanging hood is usually does not have an air duct and equipped with an air filter.

By the way, any hood model can be run in recirculation mode (air purification with a built-in filter) or in the mode of air exhaust to the street, depending on your desire and capabilities.

It should be remembered that filters need change at least twice a year.

Herself Installation of a hanging hood is very simple. The exhaust device has a special mount, you only need to transfer marks to the wall, the distances between which will correspond to the holes on the mount.

It remains to drill the wall, hammer in the dowels and attach the canopies with a screwdriver or screwdriver. We fix the exhaust device on them and connect it to the network.

How should the corrugation be installed?

If the vent is located above the stove, you can connect it to the hood with a small adapter. But often they are separated by a much greater distance. Then you should set special duct for exhaust. It is either a smooth plastic pipe or a corrugated plastic or aluminum pipe.

When choosing a smooth pipe (round or square), you need to additionally purchase connecting elbows that will help you get around the corners. In addition, it will be useful adapter for mounting on the hood and another one for the vent.

All joints and connections are reliably coated with sealant. It looks quite aesthetically pleasing, so you can put it under the ceiling without additional decoration.

If it is possible to hide the air duct in the closet, then you can use corrugation It is cheaper and easier to install.

Adapters are not required, as the corrugation goes around corners well.

Before installation stretch the corrugation as much as possible to reduce noise when the hood is running. When choosing the diameter of the corrugated pipe, be guided by the size outlet the hood itself. The corrugation is fixed on the exhaust pipe with a clamp, and on the vent with a special grill.

IMPORTANT! About twice a year, the air duct needs to be cleaned, or simply replaced with a new one, as cinder accumulates, which can interfere with air movement and there will be a risk of ignition.

How to connect the kitchen hood to the ventilation?

Each house has a natural ventilation system, where you can connect a kitchen hood. AT bathroom and kitchen there are special, barred vents, they lead to the ventilation shaft.

The connection technique is simple, it is enough buy a special shield, it is attached in place of the vent grille, and already has a hole for attaching the pipe.

Everything is simple, but there is "underwater rocks". Old high-rise buildings were not designed for the installation of exhaust devices by residents. Therefore, individual ventilation ducts are also not provided, since there is one channel - a collective one.

In this case, if residents connect exhaust devices to it, air pressure changes in the ventilation system.

As a result, either air saturated with the aromas of cooking will be drawn into the vents of the neighbors, or if everyone puts a hood and a check valve for themselves, the devices will start a competition in power.

There may be several solutions. A radical solution is to change the apartment for housing in a new building, where individual ventilation ducts are provided.

Another option could be master's call- a ventilation engineer, he will assess the condition of the ventilation system on the spot, advise which model (more or less powerful) can be installed without risk to neighbors, if necessary, clean the air ducts of the ventilation shaft.

A good solution would be buying a recirculation hood or the creation of an individual ventilation system, which implies the presence of a vent or window leading to the street.

If the architecture of the building does not offer a ready-made solution, use a perforator. Calculate the course of the air duct in your kitchen and determine optimal location. We close the finished ventilation window with a lattice shield and bring the corrugation into it.

Where is the best place to install an outlet?

Surely, most readers will not have a question - how to connect the hood to electricity? However, even before the installation of the exhaust device, you need to prepare a new socket for him.

IMPORTANT! Hoods go on sale, mostly with three-wire wires, so the socket must match.

Sockets it is forbidden to install near the stove and near the sink, so the best option would be to install an outlet for the hood above the wall cabinets, at a height of about two meters.

Move outlet to the right or left of the center of the hood. If you choose another, more open place, then the outlet can be decorated with a special box. Do not hide the outlet behind the wall cabinets or bulky appliances!

For various reasons, power surges are possible in the house, which can damage or burn out the hood motor. To prevent such damage, be sure ground the outlet under the hood.

Summing up, we note that the hood in the apartment is certainly a useful thing. It will greatly facilitate the life of the hostess. You can install the exhaust device yourself, but if you do not have certain skills, it is better to choose a flat hood.

Any defects during installation: they were not installed strictly horizontally, the joints and holes were not sealed tightly enough, the corrugation material was chosen too thin, and other little things can affect the operation of the hood or even nullify the benefits of its installation. Therefore, follow the instructions in the instructions.

We offer you to watch a video on how the kitchen hood is connected to the ventilation: