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Do you have a home workshop and would like to have a band saw for wood? In this case, you can go in two ways, and both will be correct: go to the store and buy the right tool there, or make it yourself, based on drawings and photographs. Someone will consider the first option more reliable, since it is manufactured on factory equipment, and someone either wants to save money, or just loves to make something, but in any case, a person must set priorities on his own, so that it is his personal decision. This article is more suitable for a creative and technically literate audience, although such knowledge will be useful for any contingent.

Do-it-yourself band saw assembly

Homemade band saw in a home workshop

Firstly, assembling a band saw with your own hands is not an easy task - you will have to use a lot of attention, painstaking and time, but you can’t do without it, so for those who are looking for easy ways, this is simply not possible. Secondly, for a home-made unit, you will need spare parts that can be purchased in an offline or online store, therefore, you will not be able to get by with improvised materials, so in any case you will have to spend some part of the family budget. And, finally, thirdly, such a machine is needed for a home sawmill, and if there is a serious need, then the first two points will not become a stumbling block for you.

Drawings and preparation

Band saw drawing with dimensions in mm

Explanations for the drawing:

1. Pulley under the work table.
2. Bed.
3. Band-saw.
4. Trapezoidal belt with lateral working sides (wedge).
5. Damper for damping vibrations of the machine during operation.
6. Workpiece guide.
7. Barbell.
8. Pulley above the work table.
9. Desktop.
10. Electric motor.
11. Pulleys with belt drive on the engine.
12. Emphasis for rigidity.
13. Adjusting screw device.
14. Rod support.
15. Adjusting screw.
16. Creeper.

You certainly understand that in order to make a band saw for wood with your own hands, in any case, you will need drawings that you can calculate yourself or find ready-made ones on the Web. At the top you see one of the options for such developments with dimensions in millimeters, but their observance is not mandatory, and you can always change them by observing the scale in relation to the original, for example, 1:1.2, then the height of the desktop will be 500 * 1 ,2= 600 mm, and its total depth is 428*1.2=513.6≈514 mm. It is quite natural that this will increase the diameter of the pulleys, the width of the web and install a more powerful engine, although, as a rule, 2.5-3 kW engines are used on such units.

Cutting band for wood

Here are the blanks for assembling the machine should be purchased:

• cutting tape blade for wood;
• electric motor 2.5-3 kW, 1200 rpm or more, preferably ≈220 V;
• channel, steel corners, profiled pipes of round, rectangular or square section;
• steel sheet for desktop;
• pulleys (can be removed from decommissioned agricultural machinery) - optimal Ø300 mm;
• plywood (preferably FSF or FBS), chipboard, OSB (OSB-3);
• self-tapping screws (preferably with an anti-corrosion coating);
• electrodes.

If we talk about working tools, then in this case you will need:

• electric welding (direct or alternating current);
• grinder with a cutting disc for metal;
• hand saw and/or ;
• electric or cordless drill with a set of drills and nozzles;
• metalwork hammer;
• low level (400-600 mm);
• construction corner, tape measure, pencil, marker, scriber.

First of all, for such a unit, it is necessary to weld a frame from a 100 mm channel or a profiled pipe with a similar section, starting from a pre-prepared drawing. The height of such a structure must be at least 1500 mm, as it will serve to fasten pulleys and other parts. If there is a desire, then from below you can assemble a wooden box where sawdust will fall - for this you can use any sheet lumber. Below are a few more drawings of some nodes, where you can see the details.

Textolite damper (5): 1) base; 2) M6 threaded bolts; 3) plank; 4) nut with steel washer

Workpiece guide (6)

Carrying bar separate from the machine (7)

Geometrical parameters of the upper pulley (8)

Explanation for the drawings. The numbers in the captions (given in brackets) indicate the part number on the general drawing, which is located above the rest.

Let's start assembling

Both a home-made and factory-made machine of this type provides in its scheme a frame to which all the necessary parts are fixed, including an electric motor for rotating the pulley and an adjustable guide for feeding blanks in the form of a log, beam, and so on. You will also need a pair of pulleys that are attached to the frame with guide pipes, and it is better not to use welding here - the mount must be collapsible, that is, bolted. To prevent the cutting tape from falling off during operation, it is installed with a slight slope and protrusion of the edges - these measures will also ensure the self-tensioning of the blade during operation.

Device for stretching the tape fabric: 14) support; 15) screw for adjustment; 16) slider; 17) protective cover; 18) threaded screw M4; 19) bearing 60203; 20) stuffing box; 21) washer; 22) grower

Fastening knot of a tape cloth: 1) lower pulley; 4) trapezoidal belt; 7) bearing rod; 11) pulleys; 19) bearing 60203; 23) washer; 24) stopper with M6 thread; 25) remote bushing; 27) cover; 28) shaft

Box for saw unit (dimensions in mm)

drive shaft

Since the machine can only be made by fixing all the parts on the frame, it should already be ready, which is why it was mentioned first of all in the “Drawings and Preparation” section. After installing the electric motor, pulleys are connected to it using a belt or chain drive. After that, the control panel is assembled, which consists of only two buttons - “start” and “stop”. It can be mounted on the leg of the frame, on the wall, or even hang the PU on a hook. In fact, the assembly of the machine ends here, you just have to adjust the fasteners of some parts, but this will become more clear during operation.

You can make a saw blade with your own hands (dimensions are in mm)

It is noteworthy that the manufacture of a saw blade does not have to be factory-made, since the canvas can be made even at home with your own hands. You only have to purchase a steel blade 10-30 mm wide, sharpening using a template. Another difficulty lies in the fact that ring tapes cannot be found on sale, it is unacceptable to rivet it with an overlap - which means that you only need to weld it in a butt. This is a very difficult job and it is most likely impossible to do without the help of a certified welder, although there are excellent craftsmen who do not have a diploma - they acquire a high professional level as a result of many years of practice. The welded joint is ground so that the strip is without relief, otherwise the scale may cause the tape to jump off or even break.

In addition, when buying a tape, you can purchase it already with teeth, in a sharpened form - this, of course, will cost a little more, but it will save you a significant part of painstaking and complex work. Be sure to pay attention to the thickness of the web - the higher this indicator, the better the material, and in addition, along with the thickness, the service life will increase.

Tutorial video - homemade band saw

In order to assemble even the simplest band machine for a mini sawmill, for example, as described in the article, you will have to pay a certain amount of money for a variety of details. Even if you have an electric motor with suitable parameters from old equipment on your farm, you still need to buy steel profiles, lumber, pulleys, belts and canvas, and this will also be expensive. But if you follow all the rules of operation, then you can very quickly recoup all costs, as well as earn a certain amount of capital.

Checking the tension of the cutting blade with a strain gauge

1. First of all, you should correctly tension the saw blade - this depends on its thickness and width, as well as on the steel grade. But in order to make the stretch the most optimal, you need to use a special device called a "tensometer" (see photo above). Most likely, you won’t have it, but you can borrow or rent the device to conduct at least a one-time test, and then you can do it “by eye”.
2. Do not rely on the fact that the canvas can cut continuously, for example, from morning to lunch or even until evening - this is not so. It is best to stop the machine after two to three hours of operation, and then, having removed the saw, hang it in a free state (without tension) for 10-12 hours. This suggests that it does not hurt to have several canvases, especially if you have a lot of work.
3. If you work with dry blanks, then this does not imply any problems, but when sawing (dissolving) fresh, resins are released that clog the teeth, the tape quickly overheats and may even burst. In order to somehow mitigate such a negative factor, an impromptu lubricant is used: at positive temperatures, it is ordinary water with detergent, and in frost, diesel fuel with oil.
4. At the end of the work, it is necessary to loosen the tension of the web to protect against the effects of thermal deformation. Steel expands when heated, therefore, when it cools (read narrowing), prints will remain at the points of contact with the pulleys, which will significantly reduce the wear resistance of the saw.
5. Follow the sharpening standards, that is, the teeth must always be sharp and have the same divorce.
6. Do not forget that any sawing machine is potentially hazardous to health, as careless movement or loss of vigilance when tired can lead to serious injury and there are many examples of this. Therefore, it will be much safer if all moving parts (pulleys, blade) are covered with a protective cover.
7. The location of the machine is of great importance for safety. Nothing should get in the way of working with long workpieces, as this may cause the cutting band to break and even cause serious injury.
8. After an injury, the phrase “I didn’t notice” is often heard as a result of a lack of lighting in the workplace. Sometimes the machines are installed on the street under a canopy without the proper power of lighting devices (they cost one light bulb per 60-80 W), therefore, in this case, you can only work during daylight hours. But it is best to install some kind of reflector, pointing it at the desktop (if there is an opportunity to adjust, then this is even better).
9. Take care to ground the motor and connect it through an RCD (residual current device) or at least through a differential machine - this can protect against injury. The fact is that with an electric shock, a person loses control over the body and the likelihood of limbs falling into the zone of action of the saw band increases.
10. The platform for the workplace must be dry and hard (asphalt), and if the unit is outdoors, then this platform should be raised at least 3 cm above ground level so that it is not flooded with streams during heavy rain;
11. When working, lay a dielectric rubber mat under your feet.

Homemade band saw - the master explains the device of the machine

Conclusion

Summing up, I would like to draw attention to one very important advantage of a band saw for wood, if it is made by hand using drawings. All mechanisms fail sooner or later, but in this case you do not have to call a repairman, since you yourself made this assembly and you are well aware of the device of the machine. But, you should not completely rely on your memory - it is better to save all working circuits in order to use them in case of a breakdown.

With the help of a band saw, it is possible to cut various kinds of materials that have impressive volumes. The cost of this tool is very high, so it is much easier to make it yourself. On the features and stages of manufacturing a homemade band saw, we will consider further.

The device of the band saw and the principle of its operation

A band saw is a device consisting of a blade and a cutting gear mechanism located on it, mounted on the surface of a pulley. In the process of rotation of this saw element, large-diameter logs or metal products are sawn, depending on the functional purpose of the tool.

The price of a band saw is quite high, so its independent production will cost several times cheaper. Before starting work, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the device and the principle of operation of this tool.

Depending on the teeth installed on the saw, it is of two types. The first option is a narrow saw, the teeth of the cutting mechanism of which are no more than 5 cm. Wide saws involve the use of mechanisms with teeth of more than 8 cm.

In addition, the quality and speed of the band saw also depends on the shape of the teeth located on the cutting mechanism. The maximum tine height is twenty percent of the platform width. Otherwise, the canvas will not withstand the load and simply break.

In addition, the speed and quality of the saw depends on the correct arrangement of the teeth and the interval between them and the working platform. If the spacing is not enough, sawdust will accumulate between the saw and cause it to break. Therefore, the minimum blade width on a band saw is twenty-five centimeters, and the minimum tooth size is five centimeters.

Wide saws are more productive. In addition, in their use there is practically no problem of sawdust clogging between the beam and the work surface. They are not prone to breakage or the appearance of cracks on the surface of the cutting mechanisms.

In order for the saw not to jam during operation, it is necessary to carry out work on setting the teeth. In this case, the first tooth is located with a slope to the left, the second - to the right, and the third - straight. This order is constantly repeated. Thus, the first and second teeth perform the function of cutting, and the third one cleans the surface of sawdust. In this case, each of the teeth helps to clear a third of the sawdust. However, the performance of these tools is somewhat lower, since every third tooth is not involved in the sawing process. Compared to saws that have high teeth, where each of them works as intended, and sawdust is removed without the participation of teeth.

In the production of band saws, some tricks are used with which it is possible to achieve high performance saws. To increase the quality of the saw with low teeth, the width of the working blade is increased. In this case, it is possible to raise the teeth to a greater height. The teeth are subjected to special sharpening, after which the productivity of their work is one hundred percent. Chips are removed automatically, and the teeth do not need additional wiring.

How to make a band saw with your own hands

The manufacturing process of a band saw depends on many factors, such as the device's engine, its dimensions, saw bands and additional workpieces. To work, first of all, you will need an asynchronous motor, it can be purchased on the market. This version of the saw, the manufacturing instructions for which are presented below, is made almost of wood and has the following characteristics:

• height 120 cm, width and depth 90 cm each;
• wheel diameter is 40 cm;
• width and depth of the workplace - 51x47;
• the table is able to tilt at an angle of 45 degrees;
• total weight - about 50 kg;
• blanks with a maximum thickness of 26 cm;
• canvas length - 2.66 m.

Before starting work, you should make drawings of the band saw. The main and very important element of this tool is the working surface, which should be made first.

For its manufacture, a tree, pine, 2 cm thick, was used. Please note that the use of plywood, chipboard, furniture board or MDF for the manufacture of this saw element is unacceptable.

The shape of the frame resembles a beech C, in its upper part there is a mechanism on which the wheel is stretched, and on the lower part two legs are fixed, connecting it to the base. The frame contains six layers and overlays. In order to increase its rigidity, diagonal parts are also used. All elements can be glued in stages. At the same time, the rigidity of their fixation and the perpendicularity of the arrangement are carefully checked. The frame is equipped without a base, it is mounted later, upon completion of work on the saw. After the frame is made, it is sanded and varnished or painted.

The process of making a wooden frame is as follows:

• in order to determine the shape of the element, the materials for the first layer should be interconnected;
• in the process of gluing subsequent layers, the lack of clamps is compensated with self-tapping screws;
• guides are installed on the finished frame, the impeller will be fixed on them;
• for inserts under the wheel, special grooves should be arranged;
• then the mechanism responsible for the tension of the canvases is equipped;
• in order to glue the wheel, three plywood circles are used;
• engine pulley boring is carried out before its installation.

Further work on the manufacture of a band saw with your own hands is associated with the arrangement of a mounting block for the upper wheel. This element is located vertically and provides tension between the canvases. An oak profile is used to form the guide groove. A block is a rectangular frame, inside of which movable holders and an upper wheel are installed. Oak is used to make the frame because of its strength. In order to further strengthen the corner joints, inserts are used. After gluing the frame, grooves are sawn inside it.

The frame moves along the grooves smoothly and easily. In its upper part, a special element is mounted in the form of a bolt, which is responsible for transporting the frame along the canvas and for its tension. In the form of a holder, a bar with a certain hole is used, a screw is installed on its surface, which regulates the tilt of the wheels. Fixing the holder on the surface of the frame is carried out using self-tapping screws, and additional lifts help make it movable. Under the screw, a steel lining is installed to ensure its rigidity.

To fix the shaft on the surface of the holder, a self-tapping screw is used. With the help of three plates made of oak, it is possible to achieve a springy effect on the canvas.

The next equally important stage involves working on the wheels of a hand-held band saw. The diameter of the wheels is about 40 cm. MDF or plywood is used for their manufacture. The thickness of the wheels is about three centimeters. For example, using plywood, three circles should be made, which are then glued together.

Pay special attention to the central part of the wheel; use a milling machine to cut blanks for it. A hole is drilled in the central part of the wheel, with a diameter of about 0.6 mm. At the same time, a milling compass is installed inside it. In the future, the rest of the workpieces are combined with each other along this hole.

Allowances for cutting circles are up to one millimeter. If you have no experience with locksmith tools, order bearings and shafts for them from specialists or make them yourself if you have the necessary equipment.

One side of the part is distinguished by the presence of a limiter, and the second - by an internal thread. Plywood is used to make flanges. In each of the four wheels, one hole is drilled for dowels, the diameter of the hole is 0.06 cm. The main components of the flanges are its outer part, the thickness of which is 1.5 cm, the bearing and the inner part, about one centimeter thick. The wheel diameter is slightly larger than the shaft diameter.

A very important step is the process of drilling holes for bearings, their diameter is 5.2 cm. For work, you will need a hole saw, and use a mallet to press the bearings into the hole.

Before fixing the flanges on the surface of the wheel, a holder is installed on the lower shaft. It has the form of a wooden bar fixed on the bottom of the frame. Technological holes are drilled in each of the wheels, inside which clamps are installed. After completing work on the wheel, it is fixed on the shaft. Make sure the wheel does not vibrate as it spins. In order to fit the wheel and form the desired profile, it is necessary to make a connection between the wheel and the engine.

For these purposes, it is recommended to use a temporary plywood pulley mounted on the wheel using self-tapping screws. To turn the drive pulley, you can use the motor itself, which is then connected to the temporary pulley with a belt.

The wheel must be clearly fixed, and a wooden beam is used as a thrust mechanism. In order to avoid slipping of the tape from the surface of the wheel, it is barrel-shaped. At the same time, on each side there is a bevel of about five degrees.

Do-it-yourself band saw instructions:

1. After the manufacture of all parts, the flanges are installed on the wheel, their fixation is carried out with glue.

2. The mounting block on the lower shaft is also a holding mechanism.

3. The edge of the wheel should not be flat, but ground off by 4-7 degrees. The following is the process of mounting all guides and bearings. A rubber chamber is installed on the wheel.

4. The working table is installed in the same plane with the tilting mechanism.

After the manufacture of two wheels, a pulley of a regular drive type is mounted on one. Its size and thickness depends on the belt used.

The next step is wheel balancing. For these purposes, bearings will be required, which will become support mechanisms for saw blades. After fixing the horizontal time axis, the wheel is installed and the level of its rotation is checked. With the help of a special drill, recesses are made in the lower part of the wheel from the outside, so the wheel will only rotate in a certain position. The wheels are set up and are varnished.

In order to protect the surface of the wheels from destruction due to friction and pressure, rubber can be put on their surface, for example, from a children's bicycle. In addition, the noise level emitted by the saw during operation will be significantly lower.

This is followed by fixing the wheels on the surface of the frame. First, the wheel located on top is installed. A washer is put on the surface of the shaft, which is based on fluoroplastic. To fix the wheel, a bolt and a thick washer are screwed into the end of the shaft. With the help of an adjusting bolt, the wheel is set in a parallel position to the frame.

Use clamps to secure the lower wheel assembly and install the wheel located below. The ruler will help position the wheels in the same plane. After that, the fixation of the block follows, on the lower shaft. Check how the wheels turn by hand, check their fixation again, and then start the engine. The tape should be located in the middle of the wheel, the movements should be smooth and symmetrical.

If there is vibration and additional sounds, you should turn off the saw and check the parallelism of the wheels.

Next, install the guides on the saw blade. For their manufacture, it is best to use wood. In addition, it is necessary to make a protective system in the form of a rectangular pipe made of duralumin. Use self-tapping screws to fix the protection on the tire. When setting the tire, observe accuracy, since the presence of distortions is unacceptable. The tire is fixed on the surface of the frame using grooved joints. When marking, the canvas must be tightly stretched. The next step is fixing the tire.

Further steps involve the manufacture of a working surface for a band saw. For these purposes, you can use chipboard with MDF inserts. In addition, a cabinet must be made under the saw, the dimensions of which depend on the size of the tool itself.

The installation of electrical elements to ensure the operability of the mechanism is carried out at the end. It is also possible to mount the illumination of the working area, for these purposes you will need a lamp. In order to ensure the parallelism of the saw stop, an eccentric was used.

Band saw video:

Making your own saw is a painstaking and difficult, but quite doable task. The easiest way is to assemble a home-made band saw on a wooden frame - you don’t have to cook anything, and almost everyone has a carpentry tool.

Frame assembly

For the frame, it is better to choose strong and hard wood, otherwise the structure will turn out to be unreliable and will vibrate. Some elements, such as a desktop, can be made of plywood, and the ribs are edged with slats for rigidity. The cheapest option is to dismantle old furniture by putting plywood on pulleys and a table. A maple beam will do for the carrier bar.

First of all, you need to decide on the drawings, according to which the frame will be assembled in the future. So, the size of the band saw itself will depend on the height of the working room. It is necessary to think in advance about the convenient height of the table, the length of the rod and the diameter of the pulleys. The drawings can be either conditional, reflecting only the general dimensions, or detailed, as in the photo.

Installation of the rod and supports for pulleys

The simplest do-it-yourself band saw is on a wooden C-shaped frame, where the support bar is made of a bar with a thickness of at least 8x8 cm, to which two supports are attached from one (conditionally rear) part.

Pulleys will be held on them. It is better to make such supports from strong material; multilayer plywood with a strong core is allowed.

The distance between the supports must be selected so that the logs needed for sawing fit there. In any case, it is recommended to make the distance “with a margin” so that there are no problems in the future.

Desktop Assembly

The height of the table must be comfortable to work on, while still being able to accommodate the lower and drive pulleys, the motor, and a large amount of chips. The form itself can be any, but often it is made in the form of a closed cabinet that serves as a container for sawdust.

It is advisable to provide an easy way to open the table and the waste tray - this way it will be much more convenient to clean the saw.

The tabletop can be installed directly on the bottom support. If the height of the lower support is not enough, they make a simple stand for the entire structure, raising it to the desired height.

Cutting pulleys and attaching them to supports

The diameter of the belt drive pulleys can be chosen arbitrarily, but the larger the pulley, the longer and better the saw works. In this case, it is necessary to select the blades correctly, the ideal ratio is 1/1000 of the blade to the pulley diameter. Thus, for forty cm pulleys, the tape should be 4 mm. But with proper operation, even on narrow pulleys, you can safely work with 6 mm blades.

The diameter of the belt drive pulley must be selected depending on the diameter of the main pulleys, the length of the belt and the engine speed.

1. The circumference of the saw pulley is calculated: D = 3.14 * pulley diameter.
2. On average, the web speed should be 30 m/s.
3. The number of revolutions is determined: O = 30 / D;
4. The ratio (C) of the motor revolutions (OM) to the revolutions of the belt drive pulley is calculated: C = OM/O;
5. Drive pulley diameter = D/S.

The edge of the blade pulleys is made convex, with an angle of 5-10 degrees - thanks to this, the saw blade self-centers and does not fall off.

But on the belt drive pulley it is better to make a shallow groove in which the belt will be located. You can fit the pulleys with ordinary cameras from a bicycle or a wheelbarrow.

The diameter is selected one or two sizes smaller than the pulley. This rubber cover prevents the canvas from slipping.

The upper pulley is mounted on a movable block, which must move horizontally, providing tension to the belt.

For this, a special lifting mechanism is provided. The simplest option is a bar located under the block and attached to the lever with a very tight spring. By pressing the lever, the beam raises the block with the pulley, providing the required tension.

It is necessary to provide a way to fix the lever in a given position, for example, with several bolts located at different levels. The spring will provide the necessary pressure and at the same time will dampen the tension, preventing the tape from tearing.

The lower block consists of two pulleys fixed on the axis - driven and leading.

It is important to correctly balance the upper and lower pulleys in the same plane, minimizing the "eights" when the wheels move.

For fastening the upper pulley, it is convenient to use self-centering bearings, which will allow you to quickly remove and put on the wheels.

But they need to be attached to the pulleys as tightly as possible, otherwise the bearings will loosen very quickly. After attaching the wheels to the frame, test run the saw with the utmost care.

Mounting the blade guides

In order for the band saw on wood to make an even cut and the blade not to be “squeezed” by the sawn tree, guides are mounted along the blunt end of the saw on a narrow beam.

The easiest option is to screw three roller bearings to the beam. The flat side of the canvas rests on one, the other two hold the tape tightly on the sides.

Be sure to perfectly align the guides at the attachment point on the support, otherwise even a microscopic vertical deviation can result in 3 mm at the opposite end. It is best to mark the position of the beam with the canvas stretched to the maximum and the guides already mounted. This ensures their exact position relative to the saw blade.

Instead of two bearings on the sides, you can make wooden stops. Also, it will not be superfluous to install additional guides under the countertop, and not just from above.

It should be borne in mind that the guides should be as close as possible to the workpiece, ideally at a distance of 3-4 cm from the log. Therefore, if you plan to cut workpieces of different thicknesses, it makes sense to adjust the height of the guides.

Finishing

A saw made of wood is ready for use after assembly, but it is better to make a casing that covers the upper pulley.

This is not so much for aesthetic purposes as for safety - even if the tape slips off the pulley, it will linger in the casing.

It will not be superfluous to make a chip container that is easy to get and empty.

It is better to take out the belt drive from under the table so that sawdust does not fall on it. To protect the motor, it is also recommended to arrange a cover to prevent the ingress of dust and other particles.

Finishing wood with varnish or paint will not only prolong its life, but also protect your hands from unpleasant rolling pins and chips from untreated wood. Previously, all surfaces must be sanded and treated with antiseptics that prevent decay.

The video provides an overview of a homemade wooden saw and describes the advantages of such a solution:

You'll like it

How to make a homemade band saw for wood with your own hands

Doing with your own hands a large number of works of one direction or another, which involve the widespread use of boards, wooden beams and similar materials, is associated with the need for sawing logs. It is clear that you can always purchase ready-to-use materials, which in our time will not be difficult, or you can buy a factory band sawmill for industrial use. But such decisions are associated with significant material costs, and this is not always justified.

Homemade saw for wood

A cheaper option is to develop a band saw for wood with your own hands, but for this you will need to have drawings, a durable metal blade, cutting material, and some other details.

The main part of such a home sawmill is a saw and a motor that will set it in motion. The best option is an engine with a power of 10 kW: in this case, it will be possible to cut any logs into boards without any problems using a do-it-yourself machine.

What is needed for self-manufacturing of the machine?

It is quite possible to assemble such a band saw with your own hands according to ready-made drawings, thanks to this it will be possible to saw any logs into boards right at home. To perform such work - self-assembly of the machine - you will need:

• some details of old cars;
• rolled sectional type;
• carrying out locksmith and turning works;
• minor welding work.

During the assembly of such a band machine for wood, you can use old pulleys from any agricultural machinery, the optimal diameter of which is about 30 cm. will fit on smaller pipes, leaving a slight gap of about 0.5 mm.

Making a base and a device for fixing logs

At the first stage of carrying out such work by hand, a base is made for the future machine for turning ordinary logs into high-quality boards. Metal corners are suitable as a material for this. They should be installed upside down, while it is necessary to achieve maximum accuracy in adjusting the wheels, otherwise they will wear out quickly.

Perpendicular to these corners, profile pipes with dimensions of 2.5 × 2.5 mm are welded, between them there is a pipe with a diameter of half an inch, on which claws are fixed, which are fasteners for logs.

Such fasteners should move easily in the right directions. For reliable fixation of the log, it is enough to hit the clamps a couple of times with a hammer, as a result of which the material fixation mechanism will jam, and it will be possible to carry out all the required operations with it.

When assembling a band saw with your own hands, hard metal profile pipes that are installed perpendicular to the base must be made in such a way that they protrude slightly beyond the base. In addition, jumpers should be installed on these pipes: logs will be placed on them before sawing on the machine.

How to properly install pulleys

The pulleys of the machine should be undermined in such a way that, when put on, the belt protrudes a couple of centimeters beyond their edge. All such a structure moves along special guides - pipes, which are located horizontally. This assembly, if necessary, can be fixed in place with bolts.

To prevent the tape from falling off the pulleys while working on the machine, they must not be installed in parallel, but at a slight slope - as a result of such an installation, the tape will “stretch” itself onto the rollers during saw operation.

The right pulley is used as a slave, so it is necessary to attach a spring to it, which automatically tensions it during operation. The left pulley, therefore, is the leading one, therefore it is necessary to fix it rigidly when assembling the tape machine with your own hands. When changing the size of the saw, the drive pulley must be shifted.

How to make the right roller knot

In a hand-made band saw, the best option would be to use hardened rollers. The right decision would be to make the entire assembly with rollers with your own hands and be sure of its reliability, and not use a ready-made one.

This assembly consists of 3 bearings, two of which are brand 202, and one more, at the back, is slightly larger. The shaft and rollers must be machined in such a way that in the event of a decrease or increase in the width of the saw of the machine, it remains possible to install washers between the bearings.

The shaft should fit into two tubes: a half-inch and a slightly larger one, inserting one into the other. In a half-inch pipe, the shaft should have a slight axial offset, in fact it is welded to the bottom wall.

This entire assembly of the machine, which consists of tubes and a shaft, is attached to the guides with their own hands in such a way that it is possible to adjust the roller assembly in height, move it to the sides depending on the diameter of the logs processed on a self-made machine, and also securely fix it after the end of the adjustment.

Frame and accessories

The frame, the height of which should be one and a half meters, is made by hand from channel 100, to give the structure additional rigidity, it is reinforced with scarves. The block of the machine, which will cut the logs, will move along the channels with the help of stud screws. Rigid fixation to the sawmill of the cutting unit of the saw is carried out by means of bolts with locknuts.

To make the machine more convenient to use, you can make an additional device for it with your own hands in which chips will be collected. In the simplest case, this is an ordinary wooden or plywood box, you can also use something else like that.

Ready homemade band sawmill

Thus, a home-made band saw according to the drawings can be made independently even in a garage or a small home workshop. But thanks to such a home-made tool with a saw, you can produce boards right on your site by sawing logs.

Working on such a tool, made according to ready-made drawings with your own hands, is quite simple. Putting a log on the bed, fixing it and turning on the mechanism, he will quickly make the necessary processing of the log with a band saw.

In the process of using a home-made machine, you must constantly ensure that its saw always remains sharp, and also adhere to safety regulations.

For a good owner, having all the necessary equipment is happiness. It is especially important to have various devices for those people who live in their own home. For example, a homemade band saw will greatly facilitate the work with wooden products. At the same time, as it is already clear, the device can be built by yourself from improvised materials.

Applications and unit design

In principle, the device is used in sawmills in industrial or domestic settings. It has certain advantages and disadvantages, but it is used very widely.

The device of this unit is quite simple. An electric motor and pulleys are mounted on a stable frame. A cutting blade is attached to them. Thanks to the engine, the operation of the device is ensured. Depending on the type of blade, you have the opportunity to cut not only wood, but also metals, alloys, polypropylene.

Advantages and disadvantages of the device

Do-it-yourself band saw is done quickly enough. Naturally, in this case, you must comply with all the requirements of the drawing and be accurate. However, first you need to decide whether it is worth doing it. To do this, it is necessary to consider all the pros and cons of the unit. So, among the advantages are the following:

- High level of performance.

- Low heat dissipation.

- Excellent work accuracy and high speed.

- Possibility to manufacture blanks according to individual parameters. At the same time, you can cut not only in a straight line, but also in curved bends.

- For the manufacture and use of the tool, you do not need a large amount of money.

- A band saw, which is not so difficult to make with your own hands, leaves a cut of a small width. Thanks to this, you get a minimum of waste. This is very important for the production of various wood products.

Naturally, a band saw, which you can make with your own hands in a few days, is not without flaws. For example, you can only make longitudinal cuts with such a device, since its design will not allow you to do something else. During operation, the machine may make a lot of noise and vibration. In addition, the device is large. If you decide to make such a machine yourself, then you will have to use special equipment.

If you are not afraid of the shortcomings, then such a device can bring a lot of benefits to the owner.

Which canvas should you choose?

A do-it-yourself band saw can be made from materials that can be found at home. However, the canvas will have to buy. Before that, it is worth deciding what it should be. To do this, you need to know what you are going to cut. So, there are such canvases:

1. Bimetallic. They are used for cutting sufficiently strong alloys, stainless steel. In this case, you can be sure that the tape will not burst.

2. Diamond. They are used when it is necessary to process marble, granite, quartz and other hardest materials.

3. Carbide. They can be used to cut alloys that are difficult to work with.

4. From tool steel. Such canvases are most often used at home or small workshops. They are best suited for working with simple materials.

Types of machines

Before you start making band saws, you should understand their types. There is such a classification of devices:

- Toothless. They have high performance and can work with metal. A feature of such devices is that they still have small teeth. They work due to friction and additional heating.

- Toothed. They can be used to cut wood or plastic. A feature of the canvases in such devices is that they are closed.

- Electrical. Most often they are installed in large industries where you need to process a large amount of material.

What materials are needed for manufacturing?

It should be noted that not the entire structure can be built from improvised means. Therefore, before making a band saw, you should collect the necessary parts:

1. Wooden boards, chipboard, MDF or plywood. From these materials, the frame and cabinet for the saw, as well as pulleys, are made.

2. Sheet steel for the production of a cutting blade or a ready-made part that can be purchased at a store.

3. Channel and steel bar. These parts are used to make the base frame and the axle on which the pulleys will be installed.

4. Sheet rubber. It is used to protect wood.

5. A strong belt that will ensure the rotation of the wheels on the machine.

6. Polyurethane adhesive to join some parts.

7. Fasteners: self-tapping screws, brackets, bolts, washers and rubber gaskets.

9. Electric motor. You should not buy a very expensive model. Just decide how much power the machine should have.

Thus, a do-it-yourself band saw can be built. Drawings of this design should be done, calculating each step as accurately as possible. Naturally, you can find all the schemes already in finished form.

Required Tool

In order to start making a band saw with your own hands, you need to prepare. You need these tools:

- Cutting and grinding machine.

Naturally, other tools may be needed. For example, a milling machine.

Instructions for the manufacture and assembly of the device

Now you should start producing the presented unit. To do this, you will have to carry out several steps:

1. If you decide to make an assembly such as a band saw with your own hands, you should already have drawings. They are the key to success. It’s worth starting with the construction of a table and a cabinet on which the mechanism will be fixed. To do this, you will need a furniture board or wood.

3. Now you can make a frame for assembling the entire device. It may have a C-shape, which provides good tape retention. The support frame is made of a channel on which a steel axle is put on.

4. Now let's deal with the pulleys. They must be put on the axle with bushings, and at its different ends. Naturally, both pulleys must be balanced.

5. In order for the tape not to vibrate, it is necessary to use a damper.

6. All moving parts must be connected to the motor.

7. You can also build a guide mechanism with which the material to be processed will be fed. For this, metal corners are used.

Features of setting up the device

A homemade band saw for wood must be carefully prepared for work. To do this, it should be tested and adjusted. The cutting tape must be strictly at a right angle. Any slight distortion can stop the operation of the machine and become life-threatening.

Please note that the cutting belt must be as tight as possible. Use the driven pulley to adjust. It is with his help that you can normally adjust your machine. It should also be noted that the welding of band saws used in the manufacture (it is quite simple to do it with your own hands) will ensure good strength and stability of the machine.

Saw sharpening

Naturally, any equipment needs periodic repair and inspection. For example, sharpening band saws with your own hands is quite simple. The main thing is to know its technology. For work, a special machine is used. All work consists of several stages:

1. Initial sharpening (eliminates cracks that have appeared, restores the symmetry and profile of the teeth).

2. Cleaning the canvas from sawdust and dust.

3. Wiring (for restoring the rear and front corners).

4. Final sharpening. It eliminates all distortion and sharpens the teeth.

If you do not have experience sharpening saws, then all actions should be done as carefully as possible. The quality of the device depends on this procedure. If you are not confident in your abilities, then invite an experienced specialist.

What problems can arise during the manufacture of the device?

First of all, you will need sophisticated equipment to do some of the work. For example, not every master knows how to use a welding machine. Not everyone has milling machines. Please note that the entire structure must be stable. In this case, one should not forget about the mass of the material that will be processed.

Not everyone manages to deal with the drawing. Please note that the disadvantage of such an apparatus is a fairly wide cut. In general, if you want to build such a unit yourself, stock up on the necessary tools, material and patience.

Features of the saw

Even after you can make the presented design, you should learn how to use it correctly. For example, try to follow all necessary safety rules. Please note that in some cases the blade may burst, so if you are not sure about the strength of its fastening, then do not get too close to the machine.

Observe the following rules for using the device:

- The larger the workpiece that needs to be processed, the larger the teeth should be at the saw.

- It is better to use universal cutting tapes. This way you don't have to change the blade every time you need to process some other material.

- Before manufacturing the device, it is necessary to choose the place where it will stand. This takes into account the size of the room, the presence of electrical wiring. Naturally, this place should be well ventilated.

- Before working, try to tighten the cutting belt as much as possible. Otherwise, the machine will not only not perform its functions, but will also become hazardous to health.

— The unit must not be operated for more than two consecutive hours. After that, the tape is removed and left alone for at least a day.

- After a long period of work, the machine must be lubricated. Find the right product for your car.

- Proper tooth setting is required.

That's all the features of the manufacture and use of a band saw. Please note that this device requires appropriate care. If you see that it does not work correctly, then it is better to wait a little with the start of its operation. Be attentive and careful.

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Do-it-yourself band saw - the drawing is not so terrible as its embodiment

With a large amount of use of lumber, sooner or later the question of own sawmill arises. Similar installations are commercially available, but their cost is excessively high.

Therefore, many home craftsmen make their own sawing machine. The following options are used:

There is a slot in the working table, from which a part of the toothed disk comes to the surface. The workpiece moves across the saw, which is stationary. From the point of view of self-production - the easiest option;

Chain (usually a chainsaw).

The chainsaw is mounted on a bracket with guides, or permanently. The operator either leads the tool along the workpiece or the workpiece moves onto the chain. Simple enough for self-production, but only suitable for rough cutting;

Tape feed.

In this design, the endless web moves in a circle, relying on two shafts (pulleys). The most difficult fixture, in terms of handicraft production. But the quality of work and versatility compensate for all costs.

Homemade band saw - how to make a sawmill

The main problem of such an installation is its dimensions. Owners of apartments with balconies need not worry. This device is not for you. Unless the desktop version is a substitute for a manual jigsaw.

If we are talking about dissolving round timber into logs, you need a spacious shed, a barn or a separate workshop. Of course, all this is located in the courtyard of a private house.

IMPORTANT! Considering the potential danger of the structure, and the dimensions of the workpieces, the room is selected taking into account the free space around the sawmill.

Drawings are best made using specialized programs, for example, AutoCAD. A general view of the structure in a three-dimensional image is shown in the illustration:

This material describes a vertical band saw.

Frame manufacturing

The most important part of the machine is the frame, or bed. It bears the entire weight of the structure and is a support for the desktop. You can make it from a steel profile or a corner, but in terms of material cost, wood is preferable.

The sawmill can be for wood or metal, depending on the selected canvas. At the same time, a properly manufactured frame will ensure reliable operation with any material.

It is undesirable to build a frame from plywood or chipboard. The best material would be a 20 mm board, from which any bed configuration can be assembled. The design is glued according to the principle - each next layer crosses the previous one with the direction of the fibers.

It is possible to strengthen the structure by using self-tapping screws to fasten the layers, however, glue remains the main binding material. The “C” shaped structure is rigid, and at the same time relatively elastic. That is, the frame, in addition to the bearing component, acts as a kind of damper, which allows you to smooth out the jerks of the blade for the band saw.

Top pulley block

The next critical part of the installation is the adjustable block of the upper wheel (pulley). The shaft must move vertically to provide tension to the web when it inevitably stretches during operation. The frame is made of durable wood (beech or oak).

Inside the frame is a wooden insert made of the same wood, in which the shaft for the wheel is directly attached. The shaft is machined according to the inner diameter of the wheel bearing.
The insert with the shaft must have one degree of freedom to adjust the axis inclination.

This will be required when adjusting the belt tension. The inclination is adjusted with a threaded stud and a set of nuts integrated into the wood.

Vertical movement is carried out by means of a screw mechanism with a hexagonal head. You can tighten the block with a socket wrench, or install a stationary handle for adjustment. The block frame itself moves along the guides installed in the upper part of the frame.

To do this, they are pre-milled grooves corresponding to the racks of the frame.

IMPORTANT! All nuts in the adjusting mechanism are reinforced with metal plates. Nuts can be welded on if necessary.

The shaft is machined with a flange, with which it is fixed from the back on a wooden insert. An example of such a flange in the illustration:

Manufacturing of wheels (pulleys)

Material for gluing wheels - plywood circles. Cut with a milling compass. Depending on the thickness of the material, there can be 2 or 3 layers. The total thickness of the wheels is about 30 mm. After gluing, it is necessary to cut a hole for the bearing.

For structural stability, it is better to fix the bearing in a coupling machined from fluoroplast or textolite. You can get by with aluminum if you find a circle of suitable diameter.
From the side of the block, a fluoroplastic washer is put on the shaft.

It is undesirable to use metal, due to accelerated wear. The outer side of the bearing is fixed by a flange, in the illustration it is square.

The running surface of the wheels is turned to a barrel shape. In this case, the band saw is self-centering. A bicycle camera is put on and glued to the finished surface. After the final assembly, the wheels are balanced. This can be done by changing the diameter of the holes that are drilled into the disc.

IMPORTANT! When installing the bearing, it is necessary to ensure that the shaft is perpendicular. In the event of a deviation (even a slight one), the wheel will have a beating on the plane, and the tape can come off.

A drive pulley is attached to the lower wheel. The shaft is installed rigidly, without the possibility of adjustment. It is better to adjust the tension of the drive belt by the position of the engine; for this, its foundation is equipped with longitudinal grooves at the points of attachment to the base of the machine.

The normal wheel speed for a band saw is 700-900 rpm. When calculating the diameters of the drive pulleys, it is necessary to take into account the operating speed of the electric motor.

Sawing table

The tabletop along with the base is also made of wood. The base is made in the form of a cabinet, inside which the engine with a starting device, and boxes for fixtures and spare parts will be hidden.

The table is made of thick plywood, textolite is glued on the working side. A good option may be a countertop from kitchen furniture with a durable laminate on the surface.
For convenience, the tabletop can be made swivel.

In this case, it will be possible to cut at the desired angle. It makes no sense to describe the mechanism for tilting the tabletop, since each master will decide for himself what degrees of freedom he will need.

Complete with a table, it is necessary to make a parallel stop. The design is the most diverse: from a profile with two clamps to a roller guide system.

Band saw setting

To begin with, the wheels are set strictly parallel to each other. The vertical displacement of the pulleys is removed with the help of fluoroplastic washers put on the shafts. The initial start is carried out without guides, and a test cut is made without load. Properly tuned wheels rotate without jerks, the belt does not tend to come off the pulleys.

After setting, the web guide block is installed. Without it, it is impossible to cut under load. Design feature - the module consists of two parts, but both halves must be set strictly along the line of the saw blade.

Band saw blades

There are craftsmen who make their own band saw blades. You can purchase a blank in the form of a steel strip, and sharpen the band saw according to the template. The connection of the web into a closed tape is the most difficult stage of manufacture. Welding of band saws is carried out by butt contact method. There should be no overlap.

After joining, the joint is polished.
However, the modern range of canvases allows you to buy a kit for any material at an affordable price.

So don't waste your time making consumables - this is not the case when it makes sense to apply your skill.

Before buying, use the reference material on the selection of the width of the web, depending on the radius of curvature. Perhaps you will cut out curly wood products at your sawmill.

The video shows step by step how to make a homemade saw for wood from plywood and a hub from a Zhiguli. After assembly, a 6TPI wood blade 3380 × 0.65x10 mm is used to work on the saw. from machine JWBS-18 Jet PW10.3380.6. In general, the saw blade must be selected according to the tooth profile, depending on the type of wood. For example: hardwoods are sawn with a tape with a width of 80 mm or more.

How to make a band saw with your own hands

When selecting equipment for a home workshop, a band saw is rarely included in the category of a primary tool: most operations can be performed without it. For a long time I made do with what I had, but as a result I was ripe for making a band saw. As a result of searching, I came across the website of the Canadian inventor Matthias Wandel. He suggested making a band saw almost entirely out of wood. At the same time, its characteristics were very decent, and then it is easy to make any spare part yourself.

The main features of my homemade band saw

My saw is different from the one in the developer's drawings, but I did not seek to repeat the project one-on-one. Much depends on the selected motor, saw blades and workpieces. I used the canvases that I could find. An asynchronous electric motor of suitable power was also lying around in the bins. The saw blades turned out to be a little shorter than recommended - I decided not to risk it and reduced the internal size of the frame by 10 mm.

Band saw design. Most of the details are made of wood.

Height (without pedestal), mm

Width (with table), mm

Depth (with table), mm

Table (width x depth), mm

Table tilt, degrees

Weight (without pedestal), kg

Maximum workpiece thickness, mm

Blade offset from the frame, mm

Blade length, mm

Web width, mm

Making a band saw frame

This is the main element of the machine. I used a pine inch, planed on a thickness gauge to a thickness of 19 mm. The frame is glued from several layers of boards with an overlap. Do not use chipboard, MDF, plywood or furniture board for the frame. The frame has a C-shape, where the base for the tension mechanism guide with the upper wheel is mounted on top, and two legs are attached to the bottom, connected to the base. The frame consists of six main layers and additional overlays. Diagonal elements are provided to increase rigidity. With phased gluing, it is necessary to control the perpendicularity of the elements so that the frame is flat (without twisting). I glued the frame without a base, leaving empty grooves under it. It is more convenient to glue the base after installing the lower wheel axle block. My supply of clamps was not enough, and I additionally used self-tapping screws. The surfaces of the finished frame were sanded and varnished in two layers.

1. Bonding the first layer of the frame. This operation sets the shape of the frame. 2. When gluing the next layers, the lack of clamps is compensated by self-tapping screws. 3. Guides for the movable block of the upper wheel are screwed to the finished frame. 5. Sawing grooves in the movable frame of the upper wheel block for inserts. 5. Now the triangular inserts can be glued into the grooves of the movable frame... 6. select the quarters on the sides. 7. Saw blade tensioning device. 8. In this position, the stop is visible, assembled so far without the rotation handle. Three adjusting screws of the adjusting block oak plates act as a spring. top wheel. 9. Gluing the wheel from three plywood circles. 10. Flanges (part with bearings) with linings are fitted to the wheel blanks and marked. 11. The engine pulley sharpened directly on the engine itself.

Top wheel mounting block

The next stage is the assembly and installation of the movable upper wheel mounting block. It must move in the vertical direction and provide tension to the saw blade. To do this, I fixed an oak profile on the prepared "horns" of the frame, which forms a guide groove. The block is a rectangular frame with a movable upper wheel shaft holder inserted into it. The frame was made from oak wood. To strengthen the corner joints used additional inserts. Having glued the frame, sawed grooves in the corners. Then I cut out triangular inserts and glued them into the grooves. In conclusion, on the sides of the frame I chose quarters for guides in the main frame. The frame should move in the grooves without tangible backlash. At the top of the frame, I installed a long bolt to move it and adjust the tension of the saw blade. On the holder (a bar with a hole and selected quarters on opposite sides) of the wheel shaft, a screw is installed at the top to adjust the wheel tilt. The holder is attached to the frame with two self-tapping screws, and due to the backlash, its mobility for adjustment is achieved. A metal lining is installed under the screw. The shaft in the holder after setting the saw is fixed with a self-tapping screw. The springing effect when the web is tensioned is created by three oak plates.

Saw wheel manufacturing

The saw wheels have a diameter of 400 mm. They just need to be made from plywood or MDF. My wheels are 29mm thick. I glued them from three plywood circles. The most critical area here is the central part of the wheels. The blanks were cut using a milling machine. In the center of the circle, I drilled a hole 0 6 mm and installed the center of the milling compass in it. Then this hole was used for combining blanks and gluing. Cut circles with an allowance of 10 mm for finishing. Shafts 0 25 mm (for purchased bearings) were made for me by a turner. They have a limiter on one side, and an M12 internal thread on the other. For the manufacture of flanges used plywood. Before drilling holes in them for the bearing, I drilled a hole of 0 6 mm in the center and, aligning it with the center of the wheel, drilled four holes for the dowels. The position of the flange on the wheel marked. The flange consists of two parts. The 15 mm thick outer part holds the bearing, while the 10 mm thick inner part forms a gap between the wheel and the bearing. The diameter of the hole in the wheel should be slightly larger than the diameter of the shaft. The most important operation is drilling a hole with a diameter of 52 mm for the bearing in the outer part of the flange. Especially for this, I bought a hole saw 0 52 mm and after checking it, I ground it on the outer diameter by 0.3 mm. The bearings were then pressed in with a mallet. Before gluing the flanges to the wheel, I cut out the lower wheel shaft holder - a wooden block with a hole for the shaft, which is attached to the bottom of the frame. Drilling a hole directly in the frame is undesirable: it is likely that the drill will lead away. The holder is easier to turn to the desired angle for correction. I drilled four technological holes in the wheels so that clamps could be threaded through them when gluing. Immediately after gluing the wheel put it on the shaft. Thanks to the preliminary centering of the flanges and the drilled holes for the dowels, one of my assembled wheels had practically no runout, but the second one had an uncritical "eight" up to 3 mm. To fit the wheel to the size of the diameter and to form the profile, it was necessary to connect the wheel to the engine. At the first stage, I used a temporary plywood pulley - I screwed it with screws to the wheel. I machined the pulley for the engine using the engine itself, and then connected the engine and the temporary wheel pulley with a belt. Having fixed the wheel, I screwed a wooden block as a stop and turned the wheel to 0 400 mm with the help of turning tools. It is difficult to control the diameter of the wheel on the shaft, so I measured the circumference. It is equal to 1256 mm. The machined edge of the wheel was barrel-shaped. Thanks to this, the tape does not slip off the wheel, but, on the contrary, self-centers on it. The bevel angle should be 5 degrees on each side.

12. When all the details were ready, I glued the flanges to the wheel. 13. I used the lower shaft mounting block as a holder. 14. I turned the wheel to the desired diameter, giving the edge a barrel shape. The bevel in each direction is approximately 5 degrees. 15. After pre-assembly of the wheel. 16. Guide complete with thrust bearing blocks. 17. A guide with an upper support bearing has been installed, but so far without “crackers”. Rubber chambers are stretched over the wheels (after the final assembly they need to be glued). 18. The desktop support is equipped with one-plane adjustment. tilt mechanism

Having made both wheels, I installed a regular drive pulley on one of them (read about a similar solution here). Its thickness and shape was adjusted to the belt used, and the diameter was calculated so that the speed of the saw blade was approximately 800 m / min. Now all that was left was to balance the wheels. To do this, I took bearings with an external 0 22 mm. They were then used as support for the saw blade. Having fixed the temporary axis horizontally and putting bearings on it, he set the wheel so that it rotated easily, and its heaviest part fell down. With a Forstner drill, I made small indentations in the lower zone of the wheel from the back. As a result of such manipulations, I made sure that the wheel stops rotating in any position. This completes the balancing act. Wheels varnished in two layers.

Then I pulled cut chambers from 16″ wheels of a children's bike onto the wheels. The rubber protects the wheel surfaces from being damaged by the belt, reduces noise and prevents slippage. Balancing, however, had to be repeated.

Mounting wheels on the band saw frame

Installed the top wheel first. I put PTFE washers on the shaft. The wheel was fastened with a bolt with a thick washer, screwing it into the end of the shaft. Adjusting bolt set the upper wheel parallel to the frame. I fixed the lower wheel block on the frame with clamps and hung the lower wheel. With the help of a ruler and fluoroplastic washers, I set the wheels in one plane. By shifting the lower block, I ensured that the line connecting the centers of the shafts was parallel to the vertical rack of the frame. This operation was performed with a regular saw blade installed. After setting, the lower shaft mounting block is fixed. After checking the rotation of the saw manually, I decided on a test run. Being careful, I turned on the machine. The tests were successful. The tape moved in the middle of the wheels, no vibration and suspicious noises. Replacing the canvas with the narrowest one, I conducted a second test. It was possible to glue the base under the engine and attach it to the frame.
21. A work table with a zero clearance plate and a saw tension knob were installed. The machine is ready for testing. 22.The desktop can be tilted to the desired angle. The support screw for adjusting the position of the desktop is visible. 23.Strong frame of mobile cabinet-stand.24.Protective engine screen.

Adjusting the saw blade guides

The smooth end of the saw blade rests against the outer ring of the bearing, and “crackers” hold it from the sides. At first I made "crackers" from PTFE, but they quickly wore out. Therefore (on the advice of the author) I replaced them with wooden ones. As a protective casing, I used a rectangular duralumin pipe, cutting it with a circular saw. The casing was screwed to the tire with self-tapping screws. The bar must be set with high precision, since with a length of 300 mm even a slight misalignment in relation to the saw blade will be noticeable. To mount the tire in the frame, I chose a groove. The markup was carried out on a stretched wide canvas. Then he specified the marking of the groove according to the size of the guide rail. But no matter how hard I tried, when choosing a groove, I made a mistake of 0.3 mm, which led to an error at the bottom point of almost 4 mm. Therefore, I cut out a corner from the rest of the duralumin pipe, expanded the groove in the frame to its thickness, and to correct the position I glued several pieces of self-adhesive paper 0.1 mm thick. Having achieved the desired result, fixed the corner with self-tapping screws. The latch has two holes. One main one is for the maximum tire pressure area, the second is used only with very thick workpieces in order to maximize the tire.

Making a desktop for a band saw with your own hands

First, I made a support with a table tilt mechanism. Made it from oak wood. It is attached to the lower block of thrust bearings. I attached a chipboard lining to the rotary mechanism of the table to increase the rigidity of the table. On the table itself, I put a piece of chipboard worktop. It is quite thick and durable, and its surface is smooth and slippery. Edges sheathed with beech slats. In the working area in the table, I sawed out a rectangular hole, and then milled a notch for an MDF insert. I installed the insert with the saw turned on: I put the insert into the grooves and pushed it all the way, while sawing it to the desired length. When the table is rotated at an angle, I either remove the insert altogether, or make a new one at a specific angle. I made a knob on the nut of the web tension mechanism. I set the tension force by eye - it is almost impossible to tear the canvas. To make it more convenient to set the table perpendicular to the canvas, I made an additional stop for the table. A self-tapping screw screwed into the stop allows you to adjust the position of the table. And to prevent sawdust from sticking to the wheels, I installed a cut-off toothbrush on the lower wheel.

Making a cabinet for a saw

I chose the dimensions of the cabinet based on the dimensions of the base of the saw, and adjusted the height so that the table was at a level of 1,050 mm from the floor - this is just right for me. The curbstone was made from scraps of a tongue-and-groove floorboard 35 mm thick. The frame of the pedestal was assembled on dowels. Reinforced the corners from the inside with metal corners. Side inserts - from laminated chipboard. The back wall is made of MDF. In general, everything from scraps. The top drawer of the cabinet serves to collect sawdust. The curbstone is established on wheels with a possibility of their fixing.

25. The right wall of the lower wheel housing is beveled at the top to make it easier to change saw blades. 26. The rear wall of the lower wheel guard is tilted and guides the sawdust into the box. 27.The parallel stop is fixed on the desktop. Protection installation. 28. This is how the protection of moving parts looks like. Saw start button and backlight switch installed.

Protective covers and elements of the saw body are at the same time guides for removing sawdust. All working elements of the saw are protected by screens. As a material for casings and screens, I used MDF 8 mm thick and pine boards.

Wiring

In addition to the start button, I immediately decided to install the illumination of the working area. To do this, I used a lamp with a flexible bracket, and placed its switch next to the start button. I passed the wires through the frame and fixed it at the back.

Parallel stop

The band saw could already be used, but there was a lack of a parallel stop. The mechanism for fixing the stop was built on the basis of an eccentric. Due to the rounded front edge of the table, a movable pusher with a semicircular leading edge had to be cut out additionally. The stop tire was made of larch. On the opposite side of the tire, I attached a grip that rests against the edge of the table. It took me almost two months to make the saw. True, I did not work on it every day. The project turned out to be very exciting. Satisfied with the performance of the machine. Now I can’t even imagine how I used to do without a band saw. As a test for the saw, I made several caskets.

Do-it-yourself band saw for wood - all photos

©Sergey Golovkov, Novocherkassk

Below are other entries on the topic "How to do it yourself - to the householder!"

Alexander Kupriyanov, Bryansk
2017-04-07 (17:26) #

Do-it-yourself saw with a square

When you need to cut a board or a rail strictly at a right angle, but there is no square at hand, I use a hacksaw with a small addition.

I riveted two wooden blocks of suitable shape to the canvas at the very handle, as shown in the figure. To apply the markup, I apply the handle to the edge of the workpiece and with a pencil (you can use a nail) draw a line along the canvas along the part, then cut off the necessary part according to the mark.

good machine .. well done master .. and about chipboard - I have a band saw made with wheels made of chipboard 15 mm thick ... from a door from an old chiffoner that lay in a barn for 20 years .. wheels - 25 cm in diameter .. saw blade 6.3 mm long 180 cm.. cutting height = 200 mm.. my machine has been standing on the street for three years. covered with a cellophane bag .. in mins 20 I saw firewood calmly .. who wants to make a band saw for wood - do it necessarily .. saving on electricity - I have a 550 watt engine .. the speed of the engine is 900 rpm .. I reduced it by three .. and it makes noise not loud .. the only advice is to make a frame out of plywood - less vibration .. steel still vibrates a little .. cast iron does not vibrate, but there are no cast iron corners

Well done. Where can you get drawings?

Alexander
2015-07-28 (20:41) #

Well done! The first site where it is most fully described how to make a saw (the sizes are there and everything else), the rest are just panache, but window dressing, they say, this is how I can or reprints of each other. From chipboard and MDF, it’s clear why you can’t do it, but with plywood, what’s wrong? To be honest, I'm not good at woodworking. And we should also add here about the engine (revs, power pulleys under the belt). And that's great, thank you so much!

Any owner strives to have all the necessary equipment. This mainly applies to those people who have a private house. A band saw can make it easier to work with wood materials. This article will talk about how to make a band saw for wood with your own hands from the available materials.

Where are band saws used?

Belt machines are used in sawmills, in industry or household. They have both advantages and disadvantages, which does not prevent them from being used quite widely.

The machine is set up simply. An electric motor and several pulleys are attached to a reliable frame. Next, the cutting blade is installed. The electric motor powers the entire product. Depending on which blade is installed, it becomes possible to cut wood, metals and plastic products.

The main disadvantages and advantages of tape machines

A do-it-yourself band saw for wood is made in a small amount of time. In this process, it is necessary to be precise and follow the requirements of the drawings. First you need to understand whether such a homemade jigsaw is necessary. In this matter, the disadvantages and advantages of a band saw can help.

Specialists highlight the following advantages of these machines:

Such a machine, made at home in a couple of days, has some drawbacks. Only longitudinal cuts can be made with a similar apparatus. Its design capabilities are not designed for otherwise. During operation, the band saw is capable of producing a lot of vibration and noise. Also, the product has a large overall dimensions. To make a band saw with your own hands, you need to use additional equipment. Despite all the shortcomings, such a product can bring many benefits to a person.

Types of band saws

Before assembling the band saw it is worth studying their types. Experts distinguish between the following types of such devices:

1. toothless band saws: have high productivity and are able to process metal products. Their peculiarity is that they have small teeth. Cutting the product occurs due to high heat and friction;
2. toothed band saws: for processing plastic products and wood. The main feature of cutting blades in such devices is their isolation;
3. electric spark band saws: used mainly in large enterprises that process a huge amount of wood.

Materials for making a band saw with your own hands

It will not work to make the entire design of a band saw from improvised means. Before starting assembly, purchase the following materials:

Using these materials, it is quite easy to make a band saw with your own hands at home. All necessary drawings such a design should be considered accurately, checking every detail. Schematics can be found online.

Band saw making tool

To assemble a band saw at home, you should prepare in advance. Experts recommend to have such additional tools:

• grinder;
• grinder and jigsaw;
• a hammer.

We can now describe in more detail making a band saw with your own hands. In work, you should adhere to the following order:

How to set up a belt machine

A homemade band saw for woodworking must be well prepared before starting work. Worth it set up and test. The cutting belt should only be installed at a vertical angle. Even a small misalignment can break the band saw and harm the health of the worker. The cutting belt must be stretched to the maximum. To do this, you can use the main pulley. With it, you can qualitatively adjust the band saw. For the manufacture of band saws, it is best to use welding. This will ensure the stability and special strength of the machine.

The main problems in the manufacture of the machine

Additional equipment may be needed to successfully complete some types of work. Not every person will be able to perform welding or milling of individual parts. The whole structure must be very stable. It is also worth considering the weight of the material being processed. Many people will need help reading blueprints. The disadvantage of a homemade machine can be considered a fairly wide propyl. Experts advise before making a band saw in advance to find all the necessary tools and materials.

Band saw application

After finishing work on the manufacture of a band saw, you need to learn how to handle it correctly. It is worth observing safety precautions. Under certain circumstances, the cutting blade can simply burst. To be near a working device, you must be completely confident in the reliability of fastening.

It is necessary to strictly observe such band saw operating instructions:

The band saw for wood is one of the main types of equipment for the woodworking industry. At home, it can be successfully replaced with a simple electric jigsaw, but the device allows you to perform work in much larger volumes.

Small labor intensity and material consumption in manufacturing, allow you to make a hand-made band saw machine for wood. After all, why spend extra money on the purchase of expensive imported equipment, when you can independently assemble a device with your own hands that is not inferior in performance?

1 General information

The use of a band saw for wood allows you to make cuts with your own hands, which are not inferior in accuracy to cutting using a jigsaw. Because of this, they are often called jigsaw-type band saws. The principle of operation of such machines was proposed in the 19th century and to this day remains relevant in the field of woodworking.

Of course, modern models on the head surpass the first woodworking machines both technologically and differ in design features, but the basic elements and the principle of operation remained the same. The main such feature remains the hole saw, which can perform straight and curved cuts.

The woodworking band saw can carry out both high-precision cuts and rough processing work. Due to this feature, these machines are used for carpentry purposes in furniture factories and various woodworking enterprises.

1.1 Application of the band saw

Band saws are common in their application with most known building materials. First of all, it is work with wood, as well as with plastic and foam. In the manufacture of furniture, such machines find their role in cutting long boards with a large thickness, sawing out individual wooden elements.

In addition to wood, band machines do an excellent job of processing and cutting metal. Machining work with cast iron, non-ferrous and ferrous metals, stainless steel and even high-strength metal alloys is possible.

Band saws have a lot of advantages that are not available with other devices:

• the ability to carry out cuts of workpieces, the thickness of which reaches 400 millimeters;
• performing cuts of complex configurations that are inaccessible to other machines;
• implementation of cuts of a curvilinear type;
• band saw work leave a minimum amount of waste in the form of dust and chips, due to the fact that the cut of the workpiece is even and clean;
• band saw woodworking machine takes up little space, and also has a small weight, so that it can be installed at the workplace without the involvement of special equipment;
• the noise of the saw does not cause discomfort to the machine operator and does not disturb others if the machine is located near residential buildings;
• the simple design of the device allows you to make a band saw machine with your own hands.

2 Main types of band saws

Before purchasing a band saw, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with its technical characteristics, as well as with the possibilities of performing the work you need. Conventionally, band saws can be divided into groups according to the difference in the following indicators:

• volume of production per unit of time;
• belt width in the machine;
• angle of rotation;
• number of speed modes.

The division into machines for domestic use and for industrial production is carried out mainly due to the difference in the width of the tape. Tape with a width of up to 13 millimeters is mainly used for small, domestic volumes of material processing. In industry, tapes with a width of 19 millimeters are common.

The saw blade can be positioned vertically and horizontally. These band saws are divided into vertical and horizontal. A large-sized vertical apparatus has only a console with a working element from moving elements.

Band saws also differ in the way they feed the workpiece under the working body. Automatic machines are common in the mass production of products that are mass-produced. The material is fed using a vise and an electric motor.

Semi-automatic machines are mainly used in the procurement industry. Their main difference can be called the possibility of manipulating the saw frame when using the automatic mode. Manual machines assume the supply of material with their own hands and are used primarily in domestic household production.

Among others, it is worth highlighting the MP9-1668-006 woodworking band saw. Produced in Belarus, the MP9-1668-006 sawmill allows you to process parts with a width of 80 to 400 millimeters and a length of 1200 to 8200 millimeters. The MP9-1668-006 machine has a power of 7.5 kW and operates under a voltage of 380V. The web speed reaches 33 m/s.

2.1 Band saw for wood and metal JET (video)

2.2 Design features

Before purchasing, or, especially, making a machine with your own hands, it is necessary to study in detail the structure of the apparatus of this model in order to have a complete picture of the design and capabilities of the unit.

The main elements of each machine are:

• saw;
• Electrical engine;
• working platform;
• C-shaped bed;
• upper and lower pulleys;
• guide elements;
• protective shutters.

In case of unforeseen situations, the brake mechanisms come into play, which instantly stop the saw. With a possible break of the tape, the safety of production is guaranteed by clamps that stop it. It is possible to install an additional element, which can adjust the width of the intended cut - the guide line.

2.3 How the machine works

The instruction for working with the machine involves several mandatory steps, working on the principle of a tape machine mechanism. First, the wooden blank is properly fixed in order to avoid vibration of the desktop. This affects the convenience of working with the machine and directly on production volumes.

Then the workpiece is cut along the guide line, or a movable fence can be used. Figured cutting is carried out clearly along the contour of the applied markings, as well as using special devices that ensure the supply of workpieces.

Band saws for wood can be used for curved and straight cuts, as well as figured and cut wood at an angle of 45 degrees.

If cutting is used in automatic mode, then the feeder removable device greatly facilitates the work process. The automatic feeder is a bracket with rollers on which the workpiece is placed.

With its help, when carrying out the necessary manipulations, cutting and sawing becomes much easier to manage. And most importantly, we must not forget that any electrical equipment is a source of potential danger, and requires the necessary precautions when working with it.

2.4 Making a band saw with your own hands

Making a tape machine for wood with your own hands does not require special skills, but only basic ideas in metal and wood processing.

First of all, all the required sketches of the product and its main components are performed. Then, with their own hands, the frame of the desktop is welded according to the completed drawing. The classic dimensions of the table have dimensions of 420 × 720 millimeters.

A tabletop must be installed on the frame. Preferably made from plywood. 20 mm thick, followed by gluing with textolite. Then it is necessary to attach a carrier bar to the table, which can be made using channel No. 8. To fix the rod, welding of the transverse profile to the corner is used.

Next, you need to make the basis for the upper and lower pulley. This can be done using plywood 20 millimeters thick, covering the working surface of the pulleys with sheet rubber. The working surface must necessarily be barrel-shaped in order to be able to hold the saw band. With the help of epoxy resin, a duralumin bushing is glued in, in which the bearing seat is preliminarily machined.

The lower pulley is put on a steel axle and fixed with three screws. The axle is inserted into the axle box, where 2 ball bearings are installed. The box itself is installed in the lower zone of the rod. A belt drive is attached to the second end of the axle.

An engine is installed inside the table, on which the drive pulley is attached. Both the first and second pulleys must be located in the same plane and connected by one belt drive.

A support is fixed on the upper part of the rod and an adjusting screw is attached to it. The upper pulley is fixed on the axis where the slider is located. The resulting knot is fixed on the bar and fixed with a special feint.

In the place where the canvas passes through the table, it is required to install a home-made textolite damper, which reduces the overall vibration of the installation. Further, with their own hands, a casing is made of sheet steel that protects the working canvas. At the end of the work, a switch with a wire and a plug is installed. From it, the wiring is connected to the electric motor. This completes the manufacture of a tape machine for wood with your own hands.