A gas boiler is the most important element of an autonomous heating system. It’s good if it heats water uninterruptedly throughout the heating season and does not force you to interfere in your work. But what to do if it suddenly suddenly goes out or turns off spontaneously a few hours after ignition?

In such cases, the main thing is not to panic. Obviously, a long downtime of the boiler in idle mode can lead to extremely undesirable consequences not only for the residents, but for the entire system as a whole - it can defrost and become unusable. Therefore, if something incomprehensible periodically begins to happen to the boiler - it suddenly goes out, the wind makes noise in the combustion chamber and blows out the flame, or any emergency icon lights up on the dashboard display, you need to quickly diagnose and determine the causes of the malfunction.

First of all, do not pay attention to the advice of "experts" who recommend "simply" changing the boiler and chimney. This is, of course, an effective method, but it can always be resorted to if nothing else remains.

First you need to understand that a gas boiler is a complex electronic system that is fully controlled by automation.

As soon as one of the sensors gives a signal about a malfunction, the automation immediately turns on and gives the command to stop the entire system. So the main reason why the gas boiler goes out can be both in the thermal unit itself, and in some of the other nodes:

• gas pipeline;
• smoke exhaust system;
• heating and hot water circuits;
• electrical network.

Insufficient gas pressure

Despite the apparent obviousness, quite often problems are associated with the lack of normal gas pressure at the inlet to the boiler. This can be caused both by malfunctions of the gas transmission network itself (which happens quite rarely), and by internal reasons:

• Faulty gas meter. Sometimes the meter jams, and it stops passing gas in the right amount. To check, you need to see if the counting mechanism is working - its readings should change. Often a faulty meter makes noise or makes other suspicious sounds;
• Problems with leakage or temperature sensors. Gas services usually require special equipment to be installed at the inlet to the boiler, which monitors the level of gas concentration and temperature near the thermal unit. When such sensors are triggered or they malfunction, the boiler immediately turns off;
• Loss of tightness of connections. Gas leaks can cause a drop in its pressure, which triggers the automation system and the gas boiler goes out. Usually this situation is easily diagnosed by a noticeable specific smell.
  

  To diagnose and troubleshoot, you need to check all joints with a sponge and soap suds - bubbles will appear at the leak points.

Chimney problems

The health of the chimney is, of course, the main thing to check when you want to find out why the gas boiler is turning off, as many reasons for the malfunction can be associated with it.

Ice formation

Why does frost often form in the chimney? The fact is that hot steam, which, together with the products of combustion, enters the chimney, rises through it, cools and settles on the walls in the form of condensate drops. The condensate freezes over time and turns into a thick layer of ice. As a result, the thrust is greatly reduced, the automation turns on, and the flame in the burner goes out.

The solution to this problem is that the chimney must be cleaned and then insulated so that the condensate does not freeze, but flows down into a special container.

Reverse thrust

This problem often occurs when the wind in the street increases or changes its direction, when air enters the chimney and blows out the flame in the boiler.

This is very dangerous, especially if an old gas boiler with poorly functioning automation is used - combustion products are not removed, but, on the contrary, are pushed into the room by the wind.

What to do in such cases?

• This effect can occur at a certain direction of the air flow and atmospheric pressure, when a vacuum is created at the pipe inlet, the wind blows there, and because of this, the boiler goes out. Sometimes this happens due to the insufficient height of the chimney - you just need to build it up a little, so that its top point is 50 cm above the roof ridge:
• Some experts advise installing various tips on the top of the chimney: fungi, umbrellas, deflectors, etc. Such solutions may be suitable for solid fuel stoves, but it is forbidden to put them on a gas chimney;
• Often the flame in the burner of an atmospheric boiler goes out due to poor ventilation. Sometimes it is enough to open a door or a window, and the gas lights up again. In boiler rooms, to improve air exchange, a vent is made at the bottom of the door and covered with a fine mesh;
• Sometimes the cause of a decrease in traction can be a burnout of the pipe. Wind blows into the hole formed and interferes with the normal operation of the chimney. The only obvious solution is to replace the chimney pipe.

Automation malfunction

In turbocharged boilers, draft is created by a built-in fan. It can fail - completely or partially. Its diagnosis is quite simple - when not in working condition, it either completely stops making any sounds or, conversely, makes too much noise. A possible way to fix it is shown in the video below:

An atmospheric gas boiler usually works in conjunction with a draft sensor, which turns on when the temperature in the smoke eliminator rises, when hot steam that has not entered the pipe is blown into it. The failure of this sensor is one of the possible answers to the question of why the burner goes out.

Power outages

It happens that the voltage in the electrical network drops below the permissible level. At the same time, the boiler immediately goes out, since modern automation can detect low voltage. When the power supply is restored, the same automation will turn on the burner, so that most of these failures can go unnoticed. However, this mode of operation is harmful to electronics, so it can fail over time. So if suddenly the gas does not light up when voltage appears in the network, perhaps something has happened to the automation. To avoid this scenario, it is better to buy a voltage stabilizer.

Boiler problems

All systems checked, but still no heat? So, it's still in the boiler itself. Let's figure out why it doesn't work. Faults may appear as follows:

• The burner does not turn on or burns weakly. Maybe the injectors are clogged. They can be cleaned with a soft brush or fine wire. In addition, air could get into the gas line (especially if the connection unit was disassembled). Usually in such cases, the gas boiler is blocked, and an error code lights up on the display. It is necessary to restart by resetting the lock (how to do this is written in the instructions);
• The burner does not turn on when trying to manually or automatically ignite. Perhaps the gap in the ignition electrode is broken, contact with the current-carrying wire has disappeared, or the air supply filter to the burner is clogged. Adjusting the gap on your own is quite difficult, but cleaning the filter and checking the wire connection is quite realistic;
• The burner goes out after some burning time. Perhaps the ionization electrode is dirty, the gap in it is broken, or the connecting wire is soldered off. You need to do the same as in the previous case;
• Flame break. With such a malfunction, the nozzle makes a lot of noise (or a characteristic whistle is heard from it). It is necessary to adjust the gas pressure on the igniter. Separation is also possible with excessively high draft and increased supply ventilation (air blows out the flame in the burner). This situation can arise, for example, if the height of the chimney pipe is too high;
• The boiler makes noise and spontaneously turns off. The cause may be a breakdown in the pump or the built-in fan (for turbocharged models), failure of the thermostat (water boils), separation or flashover of the flame.

It should be noted that many of these malfunctions are accompanied by the display of an error code, which makes it much easier to figure out what is happening.

In addition, some models of boilers are phase-dependent, i.e. sensitive to changes in the location of the “phase” and “zero” contacts on the power wire. Quite often, you can fix a non-working boiler by simply changing the location of the electrical plug in the outlet (turning it 180 degrees).

Now, if none of the above helped, you can call a service specialist. And only if his diagnosis turns out to be disappointing, will he have to buy a new boiler.

If you think carefully about the combustion process, then the question involuntarily arises: why does the flame not go out by itself? After all, the products of combustion are carbon dioxide and water vapor - non-combustible substances, unable to support combustion. Consequently, the flame from the very first moment of combustion must be surrounded by non-combustible substances that interfere with the flow of air; without air, combustion cannot continue, and the flame must go out.

Why doesn't this happen? Why does burning last continuously as long as there is a supply of combustible material? Only because gases expand from heating and, therefore, become lighter. Only because of this, the heated products of combustion do not remain at the place of their formation, in the immediate vicinity of the flame, but are immediately displaced upwards by clean air.

If the law of Archimedes did not apply to gases (or if there were no gravity), any flame, after burning a little, would go out by itself. It is quite easy to see how detrimental the products of combustion act on the flame. You often use this, without knowing it, to put out the fire in the lamp. How do you blow out a kerosene lamp? You blow into it from above, that is, drive down, to the flame, the non-combustible products of its combustion; and it goes out, deprived of free access of air.

Why does water put out fire?

Such a simple question is not always answered correctly, and the reader, we hope, will not complain to us if we briefly explain what this effect of water on fire actually consists of.

First, touching a burning object, water turns into steam, while taking away a lot of heat from the burning body; to turn boiling water into steam, you need more than five times more heat than to heat the same amount of cold water to 100 degrees.

Secondly, the vapors formed in this case occupy a volume hundreds of times greater than the water that generated them; surrounding a burning body, the vapors push the air away, and without air, combustion is impossible.

To increase the extinguishing power of water, sometimes they add to it ... gunpowder! This may seem strange, but it is quite reasonable: gunpowder burns quickly, releasing a large amount of non-combustible gases, which, surrounding burning objects, make combustion difficult.

How to put out fire with fire?

You have probably heard that the best, and sometimes the only means of fighting a forest or steppe fire, is to set fire to the forest or steppe from the opposite side. A new flame goes to meet the raging sea of ​​fire and, destroying combustible material, deprives the fire of food; having met, both fiery walls instantly go out, as if devouring each other

The description of how this method of extinguishing fire is used in the fire of the American steppes, many, of course, read from Cooper in the novel Prairie.

Is it possible to forget that dramatic moment when the old trapper saved the travelers who were caught in the fire in the steppe from a fiery death? This is the place from Prairie. The old man suddenly took on a determined look.

Now is the time to act, he said.
- You realized too late, miserable old man! shouted Middleton. “The fire is a quarter of a mile away from us, and the wind is carrying it towards us with terrifying speed!”
- That's how! Fire! I'm not very afraid of him. Well, well done, complete! Put your hands on this dry grass and expose the earth.

In a very short time a place twenty feet in diameter was cleared. The trapper led the women to one end of this small space, telling them to cover their flammable dresses with blankets. Having taken these precautions, the old man went to the opposite edge, where the elements surrounded the travelers with a high, dangerous ring, and, taking a pinch of the driest grass, put it on the shelves and set it on fire. The highly flammable substance flared up immediately. when the old man threw the flaming grass into the high thicket and, moving to the center of the circle, began to patiently wait for the result of his work. The destructive element greedily pounced on the new food, and in an instant the flames began to lick the grass.
“Well,” said the old man, “now you will see how fire will kill fire.
But isn't it dangerous? - exclaimed the surprised Middleton. Are you bringing the enemy closer to us instead of moving him away?

The fire, increasing in size, began to spread in three directions, fading on the fourth due to lack of food. As the fire increased and raged more and more, it cleared the whole space in front of it, leaving the black, smoking soil much more bare than if the grass in this place had been cut with a scythe.

The position of the fugitives would have become even more dangerous if the place they had cleared had not increased in proportion to the extent that the flames surrounded it from other sides.

After a few minutes, the flames began to recede in all directions, leaving the people shrouded in a cloud of smoke, but completely safe from the stream of fire that continued to rush forward furiously.

The spectators looked at the simple remedy used by the trapper with the same amazement with which Ferdinand's courtiers are said to have looked at Columbus's way of setting an egg.
This method of extinguishing steppe and forest fires is not so simple, however, as it seems at first glance. Only a very experienced person should use oncoming fire to extinguish a fire, otherwise the disaster may even intensify.

You will understand what skill is needed for this if you ask yourself the question: why did the fire, lit by the trapper, run towards the fire, and not in the opposite direction? After all, the wind blew from the side of the fire and drove the fire to the travelers! It would seem that the fire caused by the trapper was supposed to go not towards the fiery sea, but back along the steppe. If this happened, the travelers would be surrounded by a fiery ring and would inevitably die. What was the trapper's secret?

In the knowledge of a simple physical law. Although the wind blew in the direction from the burning steppe to the travelers, but ahead, near the fire, there should have been a reverse flow of air, towards the flame. In fact, heating up over the sea of ​​fire, the air becomes lighter and is forced upward by fresh air flowing in from all sides from the steppe, not affected by the flame. Near the border of the fire, therefore, the draft of air towards the flame is established. It is necessary to light an oncoming fire at the moment when the fire approaches enough to feel the draft of air. That is why the trapper was in no hurry to get down to business ahead of time, but calmly waited for the right moment. It was worth setting fire to the grass a little earlier, when the counter draft had not yet been established, and the fire would have spread in the opposite direction, making the situation of people hopeless. But the delay could have been no less fatal: the fire would have come too close.

It is very unpleasant when in the middle of winter in a private house some problems begin with heating equipment, for example, with a gas boiler. According to Murphy's law, the heat source begins to mope on the coldest days, when its shutdown leads to a rapid cooling of the coolant in the system, and after it the entire building.

The first thing that comes to mind is to call the master who will solve your problem. The idea is correct, but due to many reasons, the arrival of a specialist may be delayed for several hours, or even days. Instead of slowly freezing, try to find out the reason why the gas boiler goes out and fix the problem yourself. We will advise you on what to do in such a situation.

Why does the gas boiler burner go out

The answer is simple - the fuel supply is blocked, which is installed on all heating units using natural or liquefied gas. Turning off the burner and the attenuation of the gas boiler will occur in any of three cases:

• decreased or lost draft in the chimney;
• the gas pressure in the supply line has dropped below normal;
• the flame of the burner itself went out.

For reference. The gas valves of the Italian production EuroSIT or the American brand Honeywell act as automatic shut-off devices.

Automation can work both from the influence of external factors, and as a result of a breakdown of any part of the heat generator. In this regard, it is easier to deal with non-volatile floor-standing boilers of a simple design, since there is literally nothing to break in them, and the burner fades more often due to external causes than from malfunctions. These include the brands Danko, Zhitomir, Aton, Ross and other manufacturers of gas-using devices from the countries of the former USSR.

Gas valve EuroSit (right) and Honeywell (left)

A more modern wall-mounted electric gas boiler equipped with a closed combustion chamber is a miniature boiler room equipped with additional protection steps that turn off the fuel supply in such situations:

• the movement of the coolant in the heating system has stopped (the flow sensor is triggered);
• the air supply has decreased or stopped, as indicated by the pressure switch (another sensor);
• voltage surges occur in the house electrical network;
• during a power outage.

Note. At the moment, only one Russian manufacturer, Neva, offers high-quality wall-mounted boilers, the rest of the market is occupied by imported brands from Europe and Korea.

Varieties of domestic heating units that burn natural gas

When a wall-mounted heat generator starts to go out, it is not easy to fix it, but a number of malfunctions can still be fixed by hand. How to do it right - read on.

Attenuation of boilers with an open combustion chamber

By default, we are considering a situation where the heating unit has worked for several seasons without any complaints, and now for some reason it has begun to go out. An extended list of reasons that cause an automatic valve to stop gas supply looks like this:

• the draft in the chimney disappeared;
• there were problems with the supply of natural gas, which caused its pressure in the pipe to drop below normal;
• the boiler does not have enough air for combustion, causing the flame to go out;
• the burner is blown out by a strong wind on the street or the flame breaks off with a strong draft inside the house;
• hardware malfunctions of a gas boiler - failure of a thrust sensor or thermocouple.

Lyrical digression. The owners of the house may not immediately notice the attenuation of the gas burner device, especially when the unit is installed in a separate room. The problem is discovered when the air temperature has already dropped in a private house.

The boiler burner went out - the radiators have cooled down

So, if your main burner of the boiler goes out, then look for the cause in the indicated sequence, starting with checking the draft in the chimney. Let's look at each step in detail.

Traction problems

The first thing the owners of atmospheric gas boilers should do when the burner is attenuated is to check the draft. Take matches or a candle, light it and bring it to the viewing window and observe the behavior of the flame. If it deviated towards the opening, then everything is in order with the thrust and you can proceed to the next step.

If the flame does not deviate, then there is no draft in the chimney

The fire remained motionless - the cause of the extinction of the burner was discovered, the draft in the chimney disappeared. Your actions:

1. Open the window to the boiler room so that the air flow is guaranteed to enter the room.
2. Disconnect the section of the chimney connected to the outlet pipe of the heating unit, and then check for draft in the chimney itself. If it is, you need to disassemble and clean the gas boiler itself, as described in.
3. If thrust is not found in the main channel, then it is probably clogged. Find a hatch for maintenance and cleaning, it is located in the boiler room below the connection point or on the street. Open the hatch and stick a mirror inside to see the exit hole. If it is not visible, then the chimney must be cleaned.
4. Examine the head of the pipe from the outside, during the summer period there could be a bird's nest there. Another option is the continuous freezing of the cap covering the cut of the chimney. This happens in severe frosts, when ice blocks the working section of the chimney.

Iced chimneys with caps

Important! The operating rules for gas-using installations expressly prohibit placing umbrellas on top of chimneys. If you have such a cap, it must be dismantled. Only open ones are allowed.

Briefly about the causes of clogging of smoke channels:

• non-insulated brick walls are destroyed by condensate, which causes the flow area to become clogged with construction debris;
• in cheap sandwich chimneys, the zinc coating can peel off from the inner wall and block the channel in the form of a thin film;
• 2 boilers are connected to one chimney - gas and solid fuel, so it is clogged with soot;
• foreign objects from the vital activity of birds can get into the pipe.

There is not only a lot of soot in the chimney, but also birds

Cleaning the pipe may not work when its walls freeze through at low temperatures outside. The fact is that the combustion products of gas heat generators have a relatively low temperature (up to 120 ° C) and are unable to warm up the chimney so that a stable draft arises. Since you won’t start insulating in the middle of winter, there is only one way out - buy a disposable burner with a can, light it and stick it into the open cleaning hatch. When the frozen channel warms up, put the boiler into operation, but do not turn it off for a long time, otherwise the procedure will have to be repeated.

Information for thought. There are situations when a two- or three-story cottage is being built on a neighboring site in the immediate vicinity of your home. As a result, the chimney can get into the leeward zone of a neighboring building, and this leads to a decrease in draft, as a result of which the gas boiler goes out. Since you cannot forbid construction to neighbors, you will have to increase the chimney by 1-2 m in order to bring it out of the stagnant zone.

Other causes of poor chimney draft and wind blowing (from left to right): low pipe cut, tree obstruction and downward airflow

The easiest and cheapest way to deal with wind blowing into a problematic chimney is to install a damper at the outlet of a gas boiler. True, when weather conditions change, its position will have to be adjusted, because with a half-blocked channel section, the heater will not reach the optimal operating mode, and waste can go into the house. Therefore, the best way to defeat draft tipping is to increase the chimney by 1-2 m.

Reduced gas pressure in the line

After making sure that there is draft in the chimney, proceed to the next step - checking the fuel supply. A sign of low gas pressure at the inlet is the extinction of the burner for no apparent reason, and the flame on the boiler igniter continues to burn. What can be done:

1. Check how well the gas is flowing from the pipeline. First, close the door to the boiler room, open the window and unscrew the supply hose from the heat generator nozzle. Briefly open the gas cock. A sign of a good supply is a loud hiss from the hose and a strong smell of odorized methane. Reinstall the hose and check the tightness of the joint with soapy water.
2. If the fuel supply is bad, clean the mesh gas filter, then try to light the wick and the main burner of the boiler. If the result is negative, call the appropriate service and call the master gasman.

Attention! Before carrying out any manipulations with the fuel pipeline, be sure to shut off the gas with the shut-off valve!

On the way to your heating unit, the line may become clogged in one more place - inside the gas meter. This happens after the repair of external pipelines, when rust or scale from welding gets into them. But it is forbidden to disassemble the meter for cleaning, only calling the wizard will help here.

Meter and filter on the supply gas pipeline

At the beginning of the heating season, when heating equipment is massively launched in private homes, the fuel supplier is obliged to monitor the pressure in the line and increase the volume of gas supplied. Sometimes the response of the service is delayed, as a result of which consumers in a dead end of the network may not have enough fuel. Here you can do nothing but make an angry call to the company - the supplier or start a second boiler on electricity or wood (if any).

Too little or too much air

Any of these phenomena leads to the fact that the gas boiler may periodically go out. For its normal operation, supply air must be supplied to the furnace through the ventilation duct or from other rooms. At the same time, strong drafts that can blow out the burner operating in low power mode should not be allowed.

Making sure you don't have enough oxygen is easy: open a nearby window and observe the behavior of the flame. If the operation of the burner has stabilized, then the cause of the attenuation is clear. Let's see why this happens:

• you installed sealed plastic windows and the air flow inside the house stopped;
• one or more interior doors were replaced and the gaps between the doors and the floor, where the air used to pass, were greatly reduced;
• you have installed a powerful kitchen hood that draws part of the air flow onto itself;
• the same effect is observed when installing a forced draft in the toilet and bathroom.

Atmospheric burner operation scheme

When buying various exhaust devices, remember that the removed air must be compensated by inflow, otherwise the draft in the chimney will decrease, or even tip over in the opposite direction. Then the question will arise - what to do when the gas boiler blows with the wind. Special supply valves must be installed on plastic windows, and to compensate for forced exhaust, it is necessary from the street.

Advice. Buying and installing an air handling unit is not a cheap pleasure. A compromise can be the organization of a natural influx into rooms with excess heat (for example, into the kitchen or directly into the boiler room), where the street air has time to warm up.

A separate story is parapet gas boilers and convectors with a short coaxial chimney that goes outside right through the wall. Since the combustion products move along them in a natural way, with an unfavorable location of the smoke outlet, the burner is often blown out by the wind. The problem is solved as follows: determine the direction of the draft in the yard and tightly close the protective grill on the windward side.

What to do when the wind blows into the coaxial chimney

Atmospheric boiler malfunctions

In non-volatile floor heat generators, there are several elements that cause trouble over the years of operation. The signs of failure are as follows:

1. When you try to light the igniter, it goes out immediately after releasing the button on the valve. This means that the thermocouple, which heats up from the wick and maintains the gas supply solenoid valve in the open state, has become unusable.
2. The floor gas boiler does not ignite at all, even the pilot burner. This indicates an unreliable contact in the electrical circuit connecting the automation unit to the draft sensor. The element itself rarely fails.
3. When the main burner ignites with difficulty, works intermittently and pops, and the color of the flame is yellow, then the main fuel jet is clogged.

Thermocouple (left) and draft sensors from different manufacturers

It is a copper tube with a bimetallic element at one end. A capillary connected to a gas valve exits from the second side. The junction of dissimilar metals is washed by the flame of the igniter, due to which a voltage of 20-50 millivolts is generated, which keeps the valve solenoid open. The thermocouple cannot be repaired, only replaced.

Briefly about the principle of work. When igniting, we open the valve manually, after heating from the wick, it is held by a thermocouple. A traction sensor is connected in series with the electromagnet, which breaks the circuit in case of overheating from gases accumulated in the smoke box.

The draft sensor is a piece in the form of a tablet, placed at the outlet of the combustion products and connected to the gas valve by two wires. It is not difficult to check the performance - close the contacts where these wires are connected and try to ignite the burner, if successful, change the sensor to a new one. Since a meager voltage comes from it, the cause of the malfunction is sometimes old connecting wires that create a lot of resistance. The issue is resolved by replacing them or cleaning all contacts.

The thermocouple is mounted on the same flange with an igniter and is washed by its flame

We do not recommend removing the gas burner device of the boiler with your own hands to clean the jet. But if there is no other way out, then do not forget to turn off the gas before starting work, and only then unscrew the fasteners. Try not to disassemble the extra joints of the gas line, and after assembly, check them for leaks with a soapy solution.

Addition. The burner of the floor heating unit will not start when the circulation pump installed outside the boiler has failed. It will heat the water in the boiler tank, and then turn off until this coolant cools down.

Repair of wall-mounted and turbocharged units

Wall-mounted gas boilers with an open and closed combustion chamber are more complex devices equipped with modern electronics and safety elements. But here, too, some problems can be solved independently. All the manipulations described above with checking draft, fuel supply and sensors are just as relevant for atmospheric wall-mounted heat generators.

To find faults in a wall-mounted electric gas boiler, you need to arm yourself with the instruction manual for the product and a Phillips screwdriver; you are unlikely to need other tools. The technical data sheet contains the fault codes displayed on the heater display, and a screwdriver is needed to remove the front panel.

There are 3 non-operating states of the heat generator:

1. The boiler is turned off completely, not a single indicator is lit.
2. The unit is turned on, the display and the power indicator are on, but there is no automatic ignition.
3. There are attempts to start the main burner, but after ignition it immediately goes out.

Advice. In the event of a complete failure of a wall-mounted boiler connected to the house mains, always check that it is energized. The cause of the problem may be a triggered machine located in the switchboard. The second moment: almost all imported units are sensitive to the location of the phase and the issue is often solved by switching the plug in the socket so that the contacts are reversed.

The fuse block is located on the electronic board of the boiler.

After making sure that voltage is supplied to the heater, we can proceed to repair condition No. 1. To do this, unscrew the front panel of the gas boiler with a screwdriver or an asterisk wrench and remove it or open the front cover (depending on the model). Then the algorithm is:

1. Locate the fuse block and check each one with a multimeter or visually. Surely there is one burned out.
2. As a rule, a spare fuse is glued to the inside of the front panel. Put it in the place of the burnt one or buy a new one (exactly the same denomination!).
3. Try to start the heating unit. If it works, then the repair is over, put the cover back in place.
4. The device turned on and again "died"? It remains only to call the wizard, since the problem is more serious.

Advice. After opening the panel, carefully inspect all elements of the heat generator for leaking joints, broken or dropped wires, and burnt parts on the board. Finding the latter, immediately call a specialist. Our expert Vladimir Sukhorukov will tell you more about the troubleshooting algorithm in a wall-mounted gas boiler in his video:

In the remaining two non-working states, the display shows an error code, by which you can determine the problem by looking at the product data sheet. The expert recommends the following: when the documentation opposite the error code says “contact the service department”, then you should do so, you yourself cannot cope with the breakdown. You can fix the following errors yourself:

1. Clogged sump filtering coolant from the heating system. Disconnect the heat generator from the house electrical network, turn off the taps and clean the grid of the element.
2. The built-in circulation pump does not work. Causes - jamming of the rotor or air lock. In both cases, unscrew the large screw (located in the center of the pump) and bleed the air or turn the rotor with a screwdriver. Be careful, some water will come out of the hole.
3. When the boiler pressure gauge shows low pressure, and there are no leaks in the heating system, it is necessary to pump air into the expansion tank mounted inside the heating unit. The pressure on the air side of the diaphragm must be 0.2 bar less than in the system. Read more about filling up the tank.
4. If a leak is detected at low pressure, then it must be eliminated, and then added to the water system.

Note. The display will not show an error in a situation where the electrical circuit of the room thermostat or the gas boiler's own thermostat is broken. More information - in the second part of the video from our expert:

Conclusion

Of course, an ordinary user will not be able to overcome a serious malfunction of the heat generator. But if the gas boiler goes out due to some minor malfunctions, then with your intervention you will not only be able to return the heat to the house, but also save the money that you will have to pay for calling a service specialist. The main thing is to confidently get to work, follow the recommendations and not make unnecessary movements so as not to cause additional harm to the heat source.