We will tell you about the secrets of planting and caring for strawberries "Victoria". After studying them, you will become an excellent gardener.
What is the difference between "Victoria", strawberries and strawberries
"Victoria" –this is the name of one of the garden strawberry varieties. The main difference between strawberries and strawberries is that strawberries grow in fields, while strawberries grow in forests. You will be surprised, but not strawberries, as we all used to call them, grow in gardens and orchards, but large-fruited garden strawberries. The peculiarity of strawberries is that they have male and female plants, while garden strawberries have only monoecious plants.
No matter how many contradictions there were about the difference between strawberries and strawberries, everyone agreed on one thing: both garden and forest, and a dozen more types of strawberries and strawberries belong to the genus "strawberries".
Did you know?Strawberries were obtained from American large-fruited species in the 18th century in Europe.
Some features of landing "Victoria"
The first thing you should pay attention to when planting a Victoria is the climate of your region. If the winters are not very frosty, then you can plant it in the spring, then over the summer it will grow and get stronger. But if you are in a milder climate zone, you should wait until the fall to plant.
When is the best time to plant
The landing time is chosen from considerations of what exactly we want to get in the end. For the best tendrils and rosettes, plant in early spring or late summer. At this time, there is enough moisture in the ground, and the air temperature is just right for planting strawberries. Therefore, from March 15 to April 5 and from July 25 to September 5 is the best time to land.
Growing "Victoria" is still better to postpone until August. It is in this month that all favorable conditions are created for young strawberry bushes.
How to choose and prepare a landing site
Strawberries should be planted in the soil where legumes, root crops, onions or garlic have previously grown. The main thing is that the place is well lit. Ideally, choose a place in advance and sow it with green manure. Lupine is the best siderat.
Important!Before planting seedlings, you should get rid of all weeds and mix the soil.
To plant strawberries, you should make holes for them:
- They should be wide and deep.
- The distance between the holes should be from 30 to 50 cm, and between the rows - 40 cm.
- We mix a bucket of earth with a bucket of manure, a bucket of compost and add two glasses of ash.
- Make a mound in the center of the hole.
How to plant strawberry bushes
A favorable time for planting strawberries, as for most other crops, is evening or a gloomy day. An hour before you decide to plant seedlings, you should soak the seedlings in water. So they will quickly take to the ground. A good seedling before planting should have no more than four healthy leaves and the length of the roots should not exceed 10 cm.
Consider the phased planting of seedlings:
- We take a bush and put it on a mound.
- The point of growth should be on a level with the surface of the beds, we straighten the roots along the mound.
- We hold the bush and at the same time fill it with soil and water it.
- The growing point should ideally be in the soil. It must not be too deep or too high above the soil.
Did you know?Strawberries bring flavor to our lives, and its leaves bring benefits. They contain vitamins such as iron, calcium, carotene and vitamin C. It is useful to make tea from the leaves, they could cure gout, atherosclerosis and poisoning.
Some features of caring for "Victoria"
When you first planted strawberries, the yield of "victory" can be reduced to peduncles and mustaches. Do not regret and do not admire them. Your duty is to pull them out and let the strawberries take root in a new place.
How to water strawberries
Immediately after planting and before flowering, strawberries do not require watering. She has enough moisture that remains in the soil after winter. Instead of watering, it is important to loosen it, this saturates the earth with air. In total, strawberries need to be watered at least twice during the season. If the summer turned out to be dry, watering should be every 10 days. Especially strawberries require a lot of water when they begin to bloom and until the very end of fruiting.
Important!If you want strawberries not to rot, do not water them with sprinkling. Drip irrigation only.
It is important to water the strawberries before the winter cold. October is the best month for this.
How to properly feed strawberries
When strawberries go through the growing season, they really need to be fed. But it is important to remember that Victoria fertilizer should be moderate. If you overfeed it, the berries will not be as tasty and gray rot will appear on them. Find the right nutritional balance, because if there is not enough fertilizer, the berries also lose their taste, sweetness and the leaves become pale or red.
In the first year, strawberries have enough fertilizer with which they were planted. But starting from the second year, superphosphate, saltpeter and potassium are added to the soil, each at 50 g per 10 sq. After the first fruits, fertilizers are repeated in the same quantities. Strawberries need to be fed after rains or when self-watering. First you water the soil, then you fertilize and water the soil again.
What is the use of mulch for strawberries
Mulching strawberries must be carried out without fail:
- Mulch helps retain moisture in the ground.
- Weeds sit underground and do not climb to the surface.
- The soil is enriched with nutrients and acquires a loose texture.
- Under a layer of mulch, earthworms appear, which improve the structure of the earth.
Methods of reproduction "Victoria"
- Reproduction by seeds. Perhaps this is one of the most difficult processes for growing strawberries. In order for the seeds to germinate and withstand all conditions, they need special care. In order to get at least some result, you must sow the seeds and keep them in the most favorable conditions for 30 days.
- Mustache breeding. You will need one plastic cup, warm water with added fertilizer, a warm and bright room. Carefully cut off the mustache from the strawberries and place in a plastic cup with water and fertilizer. Leave for a few days until the rosette and roots are formed. Next, we transplant into another glass and create an atmosphere of a “swamp” there: we fill in the roots so that they can continue to germinate. Somewhere in 15 days, the top layer of the earth should dry out, we fill it with mulch, and the mustache is ready for planting in the ground. After 45 days you will see the result.
- Transferring an outlet. The easiest and most convenient way to reproduce. You cut off the outlet and immediately plant it in a new place, which you first water and fertilize.
- Pollination of strawberries in the greenhouse and outdoors. Strawberries are considered a dioecious berry, so they need insects to pollinate them. This is not a problem outdoors, but artificial insemination can be used in a greenhouse. We take a brush with thin bristles and poke into all the flowers. After a while, there will be so much pollen on the tassel that you will be able to fertilize all the flowers. Repeat this process twice a week with new flower openings.
Victoria, strawberry or garden strawberry (more on the differences in names below) is a fragrant herald of the coming summer and the warm sun, the first portion of vitamins. There is an opinion that, having eaten enough of this berry at the beginning of summer, you can stock up on vitamins and antioxidants for the whole year. But to grow a tasty and plentiful harvest, you have to work hard. The plant is capricious and whimsical, its cultivation requires knowledge and diligence. And it all starts with the right fit.
Name confusion
The names "strawberries", "strawberries" and "victoria" are considered by some to be synonymous, while others are ready to defend their differences. If you go into biological details, you can see the characteristic differences between garden strawberries (which are grown in our gardens) and strawberries, which are extremely rare in cultivated gardening. As for Victoria, this is only a common and common name for garden strawberries brought from the American continent. But, since the rules of agricultural technology for these horticultural crops are basically the same, we will not emphasize the difference and talk about this culture as a single strawberry-strawberry family.
Planting dates for Victoria in the fall
You can start transplanting Victoria in August and September. The dates are approximate, as they largely depend on regional climatic conditions, which can shift them in any direction. Replanting Victoria in September is not only possible, but also preferable in the middle latitudes and the Far East. In the southern regions (Ukraine, Moldova, Crimea, etc.), planting dates can be pushed back even to the end of October. And in the Urals and in regions located in more northern latitudes than the Central part of Russia, it is necessary to complete the transplant work in August or, in extreme cases, in the first decade of September.
Experienced gardeners believe that it is better to start transplanting garden strawberries in the fall. There are several reasons for this:
- The favorable period in autumn is more extended in time (this is 1-1.5 months), which is not only convenient, but also gives more chances to fall into a favorable period according to the lunar calendar.
- The presence of a large amount of planting material.
- Favorable weather conditions for rooting rosettes.
- Significantly less weed growth.
- Harvest next year. After spring planting, it is no longer necessary to wait for him this season.
Selection and preparation of seedlings
You can buy seedlings at specialized outlets, or you can take them from your own garden, if you are satisfied with their variety and yield. It is not recommended to buy strawberry seedlings from an unknown seller on the market, since rosettes of far from the best, and sometimes degenerated varieties that have lost their qualitative characteristics, are often put up for sale. Each seedling should have 3-4 healthy and necessarily young leaves and roots no shorter than 10 cm. The root neck should be at least 6 mm in diameter, the root system should be fibrous, and the leaves should be compact, not very long.
Immediately before landing, the following procedure should be carried out. A mixture of garden soil and humus is diluted with water to the density of good sour cream, any growth stimulant (Zircon, Mikras, Epin, Kornevin) is added to it. The roots are lowered into the resulting talker and slightly dried, after which they can be planted.
Site selection, soil requirements, predecessors
Regardless of when Victoria is planted, in autumn or spring, maximum attention should be paid to the preparation of the plot. The soil must be fertile, able to provide the crop with the main food for at least 3-4 years. Requirements for acidity pH 5-6.5. The occurrence of groundwater should not be less than 60 cm to the ground surface.
The site is well weeded and checked for the presence of Colorado potato beetle and wireworm larvae. If their presence is detected, it is recommended to pre-spill the soil with an insecticide solution (Bazudin, Confidor, Marshal are suitable). You can add ammonium nitrate instead. The recommendation applies especially to sites located in close proximity to forested areas.
A place for garden strawberries should be open to the sun, this is an important condition, but at the same time it should be well protected from winds and drafts. The ideal location is the southwest side of the house with a slight slope of 2-3 degrees.
Another important factor is predecessors. The best of them are garlic, onions, legumes, some types of greens (parsley, dill, celery), radishes, carrots, green manure. It is undesirable to plant berry bushes after cabbage, pepper, cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, as well as after Asteraceae and Ranunculaceae. It is recommended to grow Victoria in the same place no longer than 4 years.
It is absolutely pointless to move old bushes from place to place.
Soil preparation
Approximately 2 weeks before the proposed planting, the soil is dug up to the depth of a shovel with the introduction of humus or well-rotted manure. The norm is 10-20 kg per meter square. Also, for every 1m2, it is recommended to add potassium chloride and superphosphate to the soil (15g and 30g, respectively). With a high acidity index, 4-6 kg of lime fluff is added. Immediately before planting, the soil is loosened again to a depth of about 15 cm.
Planting agrotechnics
You should choose a cloudy day or a quiet windless evening. Furrows are made for each row, which are well moistened. It is convenient to make them with a hoe and a stretched cord. Victoria's planting pattern is as follows: 15-20cm between seedlings with 60-80cm between rows. This density provides better wintering, good fruiting and ease of processing and harvesting. In the rows, the bushes will quickly close, and the passages will remain free. It is necessary to ensure that the center of the outlet is not sprinkled with earth. The soil around the seedlings is well compressed for reliable rooting and mulched with humus or peat.
How to get your own seedlings
After the end of fruiting, strong and healthy rosettes with antennae of the second year of life are selected from those that this time did not give a very plentiful harvest. Plastic cups with a substrate are buried in the ground, into which the first two antennae are dug. Those that will grow further must be removed. By August or September, when the time for planting comes, the seedlings will already be ready, with strong roots.
You should not choose berry bushes that have given a bountiful harvest this year, as they are less promising in terms of seedlings. One growing season can provide one thing: either a good harvest or full-fledged seedlings.
Landing Victoria on agrofiber
The use of black covering material not only helps to significantly reduce the effort required to care for Victoria, but also helps to increase the yield of berries by about a third. This is a big topic with its own nuances, so we will only note the essence and the most important points of this agricultural technique. Increased yields are promoted by increased protection against weeds and negative natural phenomena. Agrofibre replaces mulching, it is UV-resistant, which inhibits photosynthesis and weed growth, but at the same time it has good air and water permeability.
If you plan to use covering material, you need to correctly calculate the width of the beds so that the joints do not fall in their middle. The calculation depends on the width of the agrofibre, taking into account an overlap of 20-30 cm. Next, you should adhere to the following agricultural technology.
- A deep and thorough digging of the soil is being carried out - the next time it will be possible to do this only in a few years.
- Organic fertilizers and mineral supplements are applied in advance, 2-4 weeks in advance. Reducing this period is not recommended.
- A wire is prepared, which is divided into pieces no shorter than 50 cm, which then need to be bent in half to make studs for fastening.
- The agrofibre is spread over a selected area with an overlap, fixed with wire pins along the joint lines. Edges and corners require more reliable fixation, for which paving slabs, boards, metal rods, etc. are used.
- Paths are marked, and optionally decorated with tiles or boards, along which you can later walk. They are made in such a way that you can reach each bush with your hands.
- Chalk marks are placed on the fiber in the places of future seedlings, after which a cross-shaped cut is made in these places (not a round hole!).
- In the resulting slots, holes are made into which seedlings are planted. A big mistake is to cover the plot with agrofibre after planting seedlings.
- Each bush is sprinkled at the base with earth.
Important! Victoria does not like deep landings.
Care for Victoria planted in the fall
Further care is carried out with the main and only goal - to ensure the growth of a powerful root system that will help to survive the winter and ensure the harvest next summer. Further recommendations are given for the open planting method (not under covering material).
Watering
The first week, newly planted bushes require frequent watering, literally every other day, a maximum of two. As soon as the appearance of the aerial part indicates that the roots have grown stronger, watering should be halved, but make sure that the earth remains constantly moist and loose. The water should not be cold.
Watering is carried out under the root, it is undesirable for water to fall on the leaves.
top dressing
Young seedlings do not need feeding, and will not need it for another 2 or even 3 years. Fertilizers applied during digging for this period will be quite enough.
Treatment for diseases and pests
Many pathogens and harmful insects settle down for wintering in the upper layers of garden soil. To reduce the risk of infection, it is recommended to treat the newly planted bed. This is not done immediately, but when the seedlings are well rooted. The soil is loosened to a depth of 7-8 cm and treated with a solution of Karbofos heated to + 30C (3 sl. per bucket) or Bordeaux liquid. You can also use a solution of copper oxychloride (1 tablespoon per bucket).
Then everything is covered with a film on top for 3 hours. The procedure is done in exceptionally quiet, calm weather, the film is not strongly pressed to the ground.
pruning
There is no need to prune the leaves of a Victoria just planted in August or September. Moreover, the thicker the outlet grows by winter, the better. But, if she tries to release the mustache, they can and should be removed immediately, since they take away the strength from the plant that is needed to build up the root system.
Mulching
It is desirable to mulch the soil immediately, using peat, humus or sawdust for this. But in anticipation of winter, the process will need to be repeated.
Preparing for the winter
In general, Victoria planted in autumn winters well, especially if the soil layer under it is mulched. Measures need to be taken only in case of a frosty snowless winter, as well as in order to hold back the snow if there is not enough of it. To do this, straw or fallen leaves are poured onto the bed. You can also use spruce branches, sawdust, corn or sunflower stalks, etc. The thickness of the layer is about 5cm.
When using foliage or other garden plant debris, care should be taken not to introduce pests or disease agents with them.
To get a good result from growing berries, you need to know some features of a cultivated plant. To get a rich harvest of berries, you need to know how to care for Victoria.
noble birth
The berry, named after the Queen of England, requires a respectful attitude. Victoria is respected for its beneficial properties and pleasant taste.
Fragrant berry is a strawberry variety. Victoria strawberries are a familiar garden joy. For its popularity, it requires some features in personal care.
Growing a light dessert under your window is not difficult if you create “royal” conditions for strawberries. The process involves planting, watering, and possibly transplanting the crop.
Looking for the perfect place
In winter, snow cover is a natural escape from frost. The site, well protected from through winds, is ideal for growing strong berries.
According to the composition, sandy loamy soil is selected, or an artificial mixture is made containing a large percentage of humus. A poorly lit area will result in Victoria not giving you a good harvest. Open sunny places are ideal for this variety.
Victoria Landing
By the middle of the summer season, tendrils grow in strawberries, with the help of which it reproduces. Shoots "hatch" from the nodes located on the mustache. So gardeners get rosettes from leaves and roots.
Ideally, the first 2-3 rosettes from the main plant are suitable for propagation. On a plot with a flat surface, preferably with a slope to the west, Victoria seedlings are planted.
Two-year-old bushes are the most suitable applicants for the selection of future "offspring". In the presence of 4-6 leaves, the socket is cut off from the mustache. This must be done without shaking off the lumps with the ground. A socket is planted in a pre-prepared recess as an independent plant in a permanent place.
The pre-prepared soil "meets" the planted Victoria in spring or autumn. The gardener should take into account that strawberries planted in April-May grow and develop more slowly than those that were successfully transplanted in August-September. Some gardeners are not limited to seasonal processing and know that one should not neglect such a rule as caring for Victoria in the fall. Victoria is no exception.
Transfer
Gardeners know how to care for Victoria for a good harvest. Every four years they transplant strawberries. Changing the place of Victoria is one of the main rules for growing a rich harvest of this berry.
Strong, healthy bushes are suitable for transplanting. Existing holes are spilled with water. With a gentle movement, the spine is lowered into the recess and straightened there by hand.
Berry transplantation is best done on a cloudy day. Strawberries love moist soil and will take root more easily in such weather. When finished, do not forget to shade her from the sun while she gains strength.
Without touching the leaves, carefully sprinkle the bush, and lightly slap the surface of the earth for better rooting. While the plant takes root, regular watering should be maintained. A sharp decrease in yield or a small berry is a sign of insufficient watering during flowering.
Lead time is a must. The soil is prepared for autumn planting in June. For spring seedlings, the site is prepared in the fall.
Feed and drink
Multiple expert disputes about the root causes of crop death for strawberry lovers are expressed in recommendations on how to properly care for Victoria. It all starts with landing. Humus is introduced into the dug up earth. Proportionality is calculated as follows: fertilizers in the composition of 6 kg of humus go per square meter.
An additional composition is considered 20 gr. ammonium nitrate, 25 gr. potassium salt, 20 gr. superphosphate. In specialized stores, ready-made mixtures are sold, so you don’t have to worry about the quantitative ratio. There you can also purchase literature that tells how to care for Victoria.
Landing is carried out in prepared rows. The height of the combs is 10-15 cm. 60 cm apart.
Bush distance 30 cm. This principle provides ease of care.
Regular attention
Regular watering, mulching do not exclude work on loosening the soil, removing weeds. Timely weeding has a positive effect on the result.
Careful care of Victoria is caused by the need for moisture. Despite the exactingness of constant moisture, stagnant and swampy places negatively affect the plant. Proper watering work can provide a rich harvest.
The end of flowering - as a signal to the owner of the site about the need to mulch the beds with straw, moss or wood shavings.
All of the above items must be dry. This rule will save your berry from an unpleasant disease that provokes putrefaction. Re-mulching is carried out in the fall. Peat or grain waste can be used. The thickness of the sprinkled material should be 5-8 cm.
After harvesting, pay attention to the ground around each bush. It should be loosened. If roots break out on the surface, spud the plant. Loosening the soil prevents the appearance of a crust from watering.
Timely removed rotten berries, diseased leaves are also a way to maintain a healthy strawberry plantation. An additional warning against diseases will be the presence of straw or film under the bushes with Victoria. Without contact with the ground, the berry avoids pathogenic bacteria, remaining whole and healthy.
Remontant varieties of Victoria will help you get multiple crops in one season: Geneva, Queen Elizabeth II, Moscow delicacy.
Depending on the desired ripening period, the variety is selected according to the group of early, middle, late ripeness.
Preferring early berries, choose Kimberley, Crown, Olvia. Sweet and large berries, bright red color.
The beginning of July is considered to be an average harvest from the varieties Zenga-zengana, Rusich, Vima-Zanta. Berries with a sweet and sour taste. Late varieties include varieties whose harvest is in mid-July, for example Vikoda, Charlotte.
Negative experience is also a clue what you did wrong and how to care for Victoria next season.
No one will argue with the fact that Victoria or garden strawberries are both tasty, healthy and dietary berries. It contains a lot of trace elements, quickly quenches thirst in the heat, helps to improve digestion.
Victoria is recommended for people suffering from urolithiasis, metabolic disorders, ulcers, atherosclerosis and hypertension. We talked about the beneficial properties of Victoria, now we will learn how to plant it correctly.
Before planting Victoria, decide on the site where it will be grown and prepare the soil.
Victoria is afraid of excessive moisture and low-lying soils, because cold air accumulates in these places. A culture planted in such a place will bear fruit later, get sick more often and be affected by pests.
Victoria should not be planted on steep slopes to avoid the negative effects of wind and water erosion - this gradually leads to the death of plants. It is best to plant Victoria on a flat surface, protected from gusts of wind.
Every three years, plants need to be replanted from their "familiar" place, since it is after this period of time that the risk of developing diseases and being affected by pests increases.
Ideal for growing Victoria
is a loamy soil with low acidity.
Because on light sandy soil, plants will not have enough moisture, so the harvest will most likely be insufficient - the berries develop slowly, and more often you have to pick them unripe and small. And in clay areas with a high moisture content, plants will get sick more often, and the fruits will rot.
How to prepare the soil?
Before planting Victoria, you need to prepare the beds. The soil is dug up several times, while the width of future beds should not exceed one meter. To improve the fertile properties of the soil, up to 10 kg of manure mixed with peat is applied per square meter of beds.
As for mineral fertilizers, they should be complex with phosphorus and nitrogen content. Plants respond well to dolomite flour, with the help of which the acidic properties of the soil decrease and the absorption of nutrient components by the Victoria root system increases.
It is not recommended to feed Victoria with potash fertilizers, since they contain chlorine, which inhibits the development of this crop. The bed for planting Victoria is dug up to a depth of 25 cm, while it is important to pay attention to the detection of wireworm larvae and, as well as weed rhizomes, in the cultivated soil. All this must be destroyed.
After digging the soil, the bed must be watered with water - 10 liters of water per square meter, and loosened to improve the air and water condition of the soil. Then we proceed to the landing of Victoria.
How to plant Victoria?
The best time to plant Victoria is the end of July. Seedlings (rosettes with whiskers) should have at least four leaves, a developed “heart” - a growth point, and a good root system.
The heart during planting should not be buried in the soil, otherwise it may rot and the plant will die. But you can not leave it excessively high - it will dry out. It is important to straighten the roots when planting, and to strengthen them and better survival, it is important to water the seedlings immediately after planting.
Plants planted in accordance with all the rules already have time to form a sufficiently developed root system by winter, which allows them to successfully winter.
How to care for Victoria?
In order for young seedlings to take root faster, it must be watered up to three times a day with a small amount of water - up to 3 liters per square meter.
Then the plants are watered once a week under optimal weather conditions, in case of drought, watering should be increased.
In August, the soil around the plants must be loosened to a depth of 5 cm in order to increase gas exchange and destroy the earthen crust. In October, the beds are recommended to be mulched with peat, with a layer of at least 5 cm.
Before the first frosts in November, plants should be covered with spruce branches to insulate and retain snow.
Caring for Victoria is not at all difficult. Show patience and perseverance, and she will surely thank you with good harvests.
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How to care for Victoria in the spring, caring for strawberries. Everyone in the country has a Victoria, in the spring when everything starts to grow, many have questions care for victoria what to do? Victoria leaves live 50-60 days a year. The top layer of soil up to 3 cm can be removed, so you protect the planting from pests that wintered in the litter. In the spring, when the weather allows, you can start cleaning Victoria from last year's foliage and debris. You can cut off all the foliage, leaving only a growth point. The entire Victoria plantation can be sprinkled with wood ash, (read all about wood ash fertilizer at the link). Care for Victoria (strawberries) in the spring includes fertilizer and mulching. Sprinkling with ashes, also sprinkling with sawdust or ordinary humus. But on this spring care for victoria (strawberries) does not end. At the beginning of May, Victoria needs to be fed with a complex mineral fertilizer. Before bud break, spray the bushes with a solution of copper sulphate, so you prevent diseases of young foliage. only natural fertilizers, except for wood ash, fertilize with potassium (sodium) humate. Water strawberries once a week with warm, settled water. You can water before flowering by sprinkling, but as soon as the flowers appear, you need to water under the bush, excluding the leaves themselves. |
Growing and caring for Victoria
Have you decided to plant this wonderful berry on your site? For this you need:
- Choose a placePrepare the soilPurchase planting material
We choose a sunny place for planting this wonderful berry. Then we prepare the soil for planting. Victoria prefers fertile land and for this we introduce humus at the rate of two buckets per square meter, and as mineral fertilizers - ash at the rate of two liters per square meter. They plant berries in spring, summer and autumn. The best planting time is the month of April.
At this time, the seedlings are well accepted, they get sick less, and in June it is already possible to harvest. For planting, you need to take rosettes with a well-developed root system. Planted on a flat area, making small indentations and spilling them with water.
The distance between the rows is 50-60 centimeters, between the sockets - 30. In order for the socket to take well, we dip its roots into a mixture of mullein and clay.
The mixture is made at the rate of 1 bucket of clay per 0.5 buckets of mullein, diluted with water to a creamy consistency. After planting, water abundantly. Then water as it dries.
Before flowering, watering can be done with a sprinkler, and then with a hose along the grooves. Victoria loves organic fertilizers and, for top dressing, I use mullein. I dilute it 1:10. I feed the plants twice a season.
The first time in early spring and then during the beginning of flowering. I feed after watering on moist soil. After that, I loosen the soil and then mulch with straw or small grass cut on a grass cutter. Thanks to mulching, moisture is retained longer, the soil is not covered with a crust, the berry remains clean and this protects the berries from raw rot and weeds. In order to get a larger and larger berry crop, during flowering and fruiting, we remove the mustache. And if you want to propagate the berry, then after harvesting, leave 1-2 mustaches closer to the mother plant. Further care for Victoria comes down to watering, preventing the plants from drying out, weeding and removing dried leaves. For in order for the berry to overwinter well, it must be well shed in late autumn. And before frost, cover with foliage, straw or other material.
Proper care for Victoria - a rich harvest
Right victoria care will allow you to get a rich harvest, starting with its planting and watering, and ending with the harvest. It is no secret that Victoria has many useful properties, not to mention its excellent taste.
A rich harvest is the result of proper care for Victoria. Garden strawberries, which are usually called "Victoria", are a very tasty and fragrant berry. In fact, Victoria is only a variety of strawberries. Care for strawberries and Victoria have some features and differences.
victoria landing
Victoria should be planted on a flat, with a slight slope to the west, plot. It is necessary that the landing site be well protected from the wind, which in winter, blowing snow from plants, can cause them to die from frost. Victoria grows best on sandy loamy soils containing a large amount of humus. Victoria reproduces with a mustache that grows by mid-summer. From the nodes on the mustache, new shoots grow - rosettes of leaves and roots.
The first 2-3 rosettes from the main plant are considered the most suitable for propagation. Mustaches from two-year-old bushes are the most suitable. When 4-6 leaves are formed on the outlet, it should be cut off from the mustache and planted together with a clod of earth in a prepared hole in a permanent place. Victoria is usually planted in spring or autumn, with preliminary soil preparation.
If spring planting is supposed, then the soil should be prepared in the fall, if it is autumn, then the site is prepared in June. 6 kg of humus and mineral fertilizers are added to the dug up earth per square meter: potassium salt and ammonium nitrate, 20 g each, plus 25 g of superphosphate. In order to make it convenient to take care of the plants, they are planted in rows like ridges, up to 10 cm high. Between the bushes should be left 20 - 30 cm, with a row spacing of 60 - 70 cm.
Victoria care and watering
Victoria is very whimsical to care and watering. With regular work to save moisture by loosening the soil, mulching, snow retention, weed removal, you can do without watering.
But when it is watered up to 10 times per season, it is possible to obtain a more generous harvest. After flowering is over, the ground in the garden is mulched with wood shavings, straw or dry moss. This protects the berries from damp rot. In the middle of autumn, you need to do a second mulching with peat or grain waste.
The thickness of the mulch should be 5 - 8 cm. After harvesting, loosen the ground around the bushes. With exposed roots, the plant must be spudded.
Weeding also plays an important role in obtaining a good harvest of strawberries. Good and timely victoria care will delight you with the harvest of berries that are indispensable in the treatment of kidney and liver diseases, diabetes mellitus. Victoria berries favor blood formation, increase working capacity, strengthen immunity. Read also about Victoria remontant varieties, as we often call it, or simply strawberries.
Victoria - delicious victory with little secrets
Greetings, dear readers! One of the first varieties of the well-known garden strawberries is the Victoria berry. Victoria fruits have an unusual aroma, look beautiful and appetizing on a dish.
Victoria is a berry that has many valuable properties and contains nutrients. It contains vitamin C. The name Victoria is very suitable for this berry. To feel victoria - victory - you need to see a well-groomed garden of beautiful berries.
And for this you need to properly care for the plant. Let's talk about that, in the garden plot. Victoria breeds with a mustache. They usually appear in the middle of summer. For further cultivation, plants use sockets located next to the mother bush.
Mustaches from biennial plants are best suited. You need to plant a rosette with four leaves on the ridge, separating it from the common plant. Victoria bushes are planted in spring or autumn. But at the same time, the site for landing is prepared in advance.
For spring planting, the beds are prepared in the fall, and for autumn - in the month of June, not forgetting to fertilize the ground. It is desirable to plant Victoria on level ground with a slope to the west.
In winter, snow should accumulate on the site so that the Victoria bushes do not die. In this regard, the bed should be positioned so that it is not strongly blown by the wind. In order to plant bushes, it is necessary to make holes in the prepared bed, into which the mustache, dug together with a clod of soil, is placed.
This must be done immediately, without leaving the outlet for the next days. The berry - Victoria is susceptible to infection with gray rot, in order to prevent this disease, the soil on the ridge is mulched with wood shavings or straws, 10 cm thick. At the same time, the leaves of the plant do not fall asleep.
When the crop is harvested, the ground around the berry bushes must be loosened. When the roots are exposed, the berry is spudded, regular weeding of Victoria is the key to obtaining a good harvest. Before flowering, in order to prevent gray rot disease, it is necessary to spray with an iodine solution. Special requirements are placed on watering the bushes.
Moderate watering of the plant will allow you to save a large amount of vitamin products. Without additional moisture, Victoria will grow if you cover it with snow in winter, carry out high-quality weeding, and do timely and regular loosening of the soil. Today, it's all about that on the site. Do not miss the opportunity to enjoy Victoria berries.
Its taste is canceled, and the benefits are immeasurable. When using, it is necessary to carefully rinse the fruits under running water. You can use garden strawberries for fasting days due to their low calorie content.
The use of a decoction of berries and leaves will help to lose extra pounds. Sooner or later, any gardener will want to plant strawberries on his plot. But how to care for Victoria to get a good harvest?
This question worries many gardeners who first planted this berry crop on their site. Is it difficult to care for this plant? At first glance, it might seem so.
However, if we consider some basic recommendations for caring for Victoria, it turns out that this task is not so difficult. Of course, it can be difficult at first, but with a little practice, you will become a guru in growing strawberries. And in this article you will receive comprehensive answers to important questions on the agricultural technology of this berry crop.
How to plant Victoria
So, consider the first question - how to plant Victoria? The answer to it is important, since it is the planting of strawberries that affects the quality of the future harvest. To understand how to plant strawberries, you must first briefly consider the structure of its bushes.
Take a look at the photo attached below. As you can see, there is a main, uterine bush. It is thanks to him that the reproduction of berry culture is possible. A mustache extends from the main strawberry bush.
Rosettes appear on these processes - future fruit-bearing bushes. Over time, this outlet will also turn into a mother bush. Important! For reproduction, choose those shoots on which there are no more than three outlets.
This will ensure the stable growth of each bush, which will also affect the quality of the fruit. As soon as the rosette begins to form, immediately gently stick its roots into the soil. So you provide the plant with a constant supply of important vital elements.
After a while, when the bushes form, they can be transplanted. It is worth noting that each mother bush can produce up to 15 good rosettes. This means that you do not have to constantly buy seedlings, and you will always have your own. Reminder.
Victoria should be planted in the middle of summer (in July). Many gardeners advise choosing the evening time of the day for this: in this case, the plant will undergo night acclimatization. What bushes can be planted in the ground? Will all sockets fit?
No, you need to plant only those seedlings that have a formed root system, there are several leaves and a heart is developed. Therefore, if you are buying outlets, then pay attention to all these factors so that you do not get upset later because your plant has not been taken.
In the same case, when you have your own uterine bush, then, before carefully tearing off the outlet from the mustache, make sure that it matches this description. Before planting the plant, carefully straighten its roots. Of no small importance is the place chosen for planting Victoria.
Berry culture develops well on sandy, slightly acidic and loamy soil. Remember to saturate the soil with humus and important nutrients.
You can not plant a plant in clay soil (it will die) and sandy soil is not recommended (yield will be small). Do not plant strawberries in beds that are adjacent to peppers, tomatoes and potatoes.
Also, do not plant seedlings near trees: their root system will interfere with the development of Victoria. But the neighborhood with corn and sunflowers will be very useful - they will protect the berry crop from the winds. The plant does not like high humidity, low temperatures and cold winds.
Such weather conditions adversely affect the productivity of the variety: the harvest will be small, and the fruits themselves become small and diseased. But warm and sunny places will contribute to the fact that Victoria will bear fruit abundantly with large and beautiful berries.
How to water Victoria
Strawberries are considered to be moisture-loving plants. Therefore, are there any special recommendations on how to water the Victoria? It turned out that yes. In the first month after planting, the plant needs to be watered into the holes. After 30 days, the bushes are irrigated by filling the beds with water.
It turns out that it is from this period that Victoria begins to receive abundant moisture. Many gardeners in this case do not reinvent the wheel, but simply bring the end of the hose to the bed and fill it to the top. Yes, do not be greedy for water.
For such generosity, Victoria will give you its large, tasty fruits. Here's what to do with this bountiful harvest.
How often to water Victoria
It is clear that strawberries need abundant watering. But still, how often to water Victoria so as not to harm the plant? From spring, strawberries begin to grow rapidly.
If she is not given the necessary moisture during this period, then then one should not be surprised that the berries ripened small and dry. Watering continues until almost mid-autumn. In the spring and autumn season, strawberry bushes should be irrigated once a week.
This should be done in the morning and preferably with warm water. In the summer season, Victoria should be watered at least twice a week, and if the days are hot, then it can be done every other day. In this case, we must not forget to fertilize the plants with liquid subcortex.
How to care for Victoria in the spring
The spring season is the busiest. It is at this time that strawberries need special care. Therefore, how to care for Victoria in the spring? You have just finished eating frozen strawberries, as spring comes into the yard, and with it it's time for you to go out to your site.
Where to begin? To get started, carefully inspect your beds. Remove all frozen plants without regret: there is nothing for them to take up space in the beds.
Dead leaves must be removed from living bushes. After carefully studying the bushes and removing the dead, proceed to the next step: remove the top layer of earth with which you mulched Victoria last fall. What is it for?
Firstly, various pests live in this layer, which have taken refuge here from the cold, and secondly, the root system will begin to receive additional heat from the rays of the sun. When you have completed all these procedures, it is advisable to feed the strawberries with nitrogen fertilizer. As soon as your bushes will please with new leaves, then immediately “feed” your plants with a solution of mullein with the addition of ammonium sulfate to it. And when May comes, Victoria should receive a portion of complex mineral fertilizer.
How to grow a large Victoria
So, all the main work is done. The gardener is waiting for his fruits. But how to grow a large Victoria, because every gardener wants to get a special trophy? In fact, a lot depends on the gardener himself, or rather on whether he will help Victoria in its fruiting. What is this about?
Again about fertilizer. And it doesn’t matter what you are doing - trying to grow cherries from the stone or want to get a large Victoria fruit - the right and timely fertilizer in these matters will play a key role. Make it a rule to fertilize plants not only in spring (as mentioned above), but and before flowering and ripening.
In the first case, it is advisable to feed strawberries with bird droppings. The solution is prepared as follows: one bucket of manure is poured with three buckets of water. The liquid should stand for three to five days.
The resulting solution is diluted 1 to 20 and the grooves between the beds are watered. And before ripening, Victoria should be fertilized twice: with boric acid and zinc sulfate. Thanks to all these actions, you can expect a plentiful and large-fruited harvest.
Growing strawberries, strawberries, victoria Among berry crops, strawberries (strawberries) are the most widespread.
It is characterized by precociousness and high ability for vegetative reproduction. Its berries contain from 5.5 to 9.2% sugar, 0.56-1.37% acids, vitamin C (an average of 50 to 70 mg).
Reactive compounds (catechins, anthocyanins, flavones and others), trace elements (manganese, cobalt, iodine) and other valuable substances. Strawberries can grow in various soil and climatic conditions.
This is a perennial herbaceous plant, in which the leaves gradually die off and resume. The above-ground system has three types of shoots. The first type is shortened shoots (horns).
They have an apical bud, a rosette of three to five leaves with lateral axillary buds, and adventitious roots. From the kidneys of the lower part of the horn, new horns develop. The second type of shoots is mustache. They are formed from the vegetative buds of the horn.
Rosettes are formed on them, daughter plants that are used for vegetative propagation of strawberries. The third type of shoots are flower stalks. They develop from the apical buds of the upper part of the horn.
The strawberry bush does not have a central stem and apical growth. New growths are formed from lateral, axillary buds, located below the apical ones, in the lateral part of the stem. From the axillary buds, two new stems can appear on the side, less often three.
The resulting stems - horns, in turn, also branch, form a set of shortened stems and make up the "crown" of the strawberry bush. The number of horns reaches 30 or more and depends on the age of the bush, variety, agricultural conditions and other reasons.
Horns appear in spring in limited quantities, but their mass formation is timed to the second half of summer, i.e., to the end of the harvest. Corded stems, or mustaches, are laid in early spring and are in their infancy for a long time.
Mustaches appear already in the first year of a plant's life and deplete it if they are not removed in a timely manner. Cord-shaped stalks-whiskers first grow up and then bend to the ground. When the mustache leans towards the ground and comes into contact with it, roots and rudiments of leaves appear on the nodes.
The roots are in the air for some time until they touch the ground along with the stem node. Under favorable conditions, developed roots and a small number of leaves form a rosette.
In strawberries, each new stem is formed from a lateral dormant bud at the base of the growth of the previous year. Since, with the age of the bush, lateral branches (horns) appear higher and higher in relation to the soil surface, the young roots also move away from the ground and are on the soil, as if in the air.
In order for young roots to grow and develop, strawberry bushes need to be spudded. The root system of strawberries is concentrated mainly in the surface layer of the soil - up to 25-30 cm. Under favorable conditions, in new planting strawberries, the roots reach 70-80 cm in depth.
Some varieties (Early Makherauha, Leningradskaya early) are characterized by a more superficial placement of roots. The maximum depth of their placement does not exceed 60-70 cm. In all areas of cultivation, strawberries suffer from severe frosts if there is no snow cover.
Strawberry bushes die in snowless winters at a temperature of minus 15-18 ° C, but a slight snow cover is enough to sharply increase the frost resistance of strawberries. Winter hardiness in strawberries is reduced as a result of leaf infection with strawberry mites or white spotting.
The winter hardiness of plants also sharply decreases in a dry year, especially if the drought continued after harvest. The effect of drought is that after picking berries, plants form a small amount of new leaves, while old leaves, damaged by pests and diseases, sharply reduce photosynthetic activity.
The frost resistance of plants also decreases if the root system is not provided with sufficient air access. If the autumn is dry, the plants lack nutrition, they are weakened by weeds, pests and diseases, exhausted by the formation of a large number of mustaches, the next year the berry yield is sharply reduced.
It is advisable to limit the cultivation of strawberries in one place to four years, that is, to get a crop within two to three years. Planting strawberries, Victoria is carried out with healthy planting material.
In the Central Non-Chernozem Zone, the best results are obtained by spring planting (the third decade of April - the first decade of May inclusive). You can use planting material obtained from the uterine plots of nursery farms, as well as material stored in a refrigerator or in cold rooms during the winter.
Early summer plantings (July-August) using well-formed seedlings can also give a high yield next year. Autumn planting of strawberries should be completed before September 10, because at later dates the plants do not take root, they do not overwinter well.
Strawberries are planted according to a single-line scheme with row spacings of 80 or 90 cm and distances between plants in a row from 15 to 20 cm. With a sufficient amount of planting material and the use of varieties with a compact aerial part (Beauty Zagorya, Early Makherauha, etc.), dense plantings can be carried out along two-line scheme, the distance between the lines is from 15 to 20 cm.
Such plantings give a 25-27% higher yield of berries compared to a single-line scheme. Before planting, the roots of strawberry seedlings are dipped in a soil mash. It is necessary to plant plants not very deep and not too shallow, so that the “heart” of the seedlings is on the surface of the soil.
Before planting plants, the site can be pre-mulched with light-tight materials. This technique contributes to the effective suppression of weeds, increasing soil moisture and creating conditions for the good development of plants.
This leads to an increase in the yield of strawberries by more than 30%, the ripening of berries is accelerated by several days, and the degree of damage to them by gray rot decreases. As mulching materials, a polymer film or thermohydrophobic paper is used.
The edges and ends of the mulching materials are sprinkled with soil and the seedlings are planted in the prepared holes in the mulch. Strawberry varieties recommended for cultivation are characterized by high yield, winter hardiness and resistance to pests and diseases.
Care for plantings of strawberries, victoria In the spring, dry leaves must be removed from the plot of fruit-bearing strawberries with a rake and, after the first loosening of the soil, seedlings should be treated against diseases and pests. In table.
12 lists some of the chemicals used for these purposes. When preparing the soil for laying strawberries, it is advisable to apply from 80 to 100 kg of organic fertilizers (rotted manure, compost), 450 g of simple superphosphate and 180 g of potassium chloride to a plot of 10 m2.
At the same time, one third of the fertilizers should be embedded in the soil to a depth of 20–25 cm, and two thirds to a depth of 10–12 cm. It is not recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers under the strawberries of the first year because of the risk of damage to the berries by gray rot.
In addition, nitrogen fertilizers cause rapid leaf growth. Therefore, during this period, phosphate and potash fertilizers are used. In early spring, they are brought in evenly throughout the site and sealed with a hoe.
Strawberries of the second year in the spring are fed with ammonium nitrate (100 g per 1 m2). This top dressing can be omitted if a sufficient amount of organic fertilizer is applied before planting.
Under strawberries of the third year, 100 g of superphosphate, 100 g of potassium chloride and 150 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 m2 are added. Usually half of the nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring, the rest - after harvesting.
Starting from the second year after planting, feed strawberries in early spring and after harvesting with a combined liquid fertilizer (1 part mullein to 5 parts water with the addition of 60 g of simple superphosphate and 100-150 g of wood ash to 1 bucket). They are fed as follows: on both sides of the rows of strawberries, grooves are made 4-5 cm deep and a fertilizer solution is added to them at the rate of 1 bucket per 3-4 m. After fertilizing, the grooves are covered with earth and watered.
A special combined mixture for fruit and berry crops is applied at the rate of 400-500 g per 10 m2, evenly distributed over the plot. Additional measures to combat diseases and pests at the beginning of the growing season - cleaning from dry and diseased leaves, at the beginning of flowering - laying straw in the aisle, folding rotten berries into a separate container at harvest and destroying them outside the plantation, making a full mineral dressing and watering.
Chemicals used to control diseases and pests. In most regions of the Central Non-Black Earth Region, after harvesting berries, the leaves are immediately mowed. This is necessary to reduce the infestation of plants with diseases and pests.
The cutting height must be at least 1-2 cm above the level of the horns; leaves are collected and destroyed off site. In the second half of summer, the mustaches from the aisles are shifted into rows with a rake, this contributes to the thickening and expansion of the rows of young strawberries with the formation of a strip of plants up to 40 cm wide.
On the site of fruit-bearing strawberries, the whiskers must be removed as they appear up to three times in the summer-autumn period, since the destruction of the whiskers contributes to a better laying of fruit buds and the development of mother plants. When using film shelters (tunnels), the harvest of berries of one-year and two-year-old strawberries ripens 10-12 days earlier and is 70-80% more than usual.
The simplest types of shelters are tunnels. For tunnel equipment, a wire frame is made over the rows of strawberries. To do this, a wire 4-6 mm thick and 2-2.5 m long is bent into arcs and placed above the rows of strawberries at a distance of about 1 m from one another.
A twine is pulled along the upper part of the arcs so that the film does not sag. Then the frame is covered with a rolled film. From above it is strengthened with the same arcs. For more reliable protection of plants from adverse weather conditions, the tunnel can be covered with two layers of film.
This is done under the condition that the air temperature is minus 5 ° C. It is advisable to keep the plants under the film until the first harvest. However, in case of severe drought, it is necessary to leave the film for the entire harvest period.
During flowering, the film shelter must be opened so that the plants are pollinated by bees. In tunnels, plant care is facilitated if a perforated (perforated) film is used (up to 40 holes per 1 linear meter, 26 mm in diameter).
Such a film does not need to be removed during flowering, as the bees have access to flowering plants using the holes. The cultivation of remontant varieties (Sakhalinskaya, Inexhaustible, Ada, Druzhba, Arpagoy, etc.) allows for continuous or repeated fruiting in a season.
In the conditions of the Moscow region, for example, the first harvest of berries of these varieties is harvested at the same time as ordinary varieties, and the second - from the end of July until autumn frosts. To harvest strawberries in the fall, semi-repairable varieties are also used (Talisman, Redgauntlet, Zenga Zengana, Surprise Gallia, Beauty Zagorya, etc.), in which differentiation of fruit buds can take place in the spring-summer period during flowering.
The second harvest will be better if the differentiation of the kidneys takes place under conditions of a short day of 10-12 hours for 20 days (the plants are covered with opaque materials) and the air temperature does not exceed 14-16 ° C. To stimulate re-flowering, mowing the leaves after the first fruiting can be used.
Film greenhouses allow you to get not one, but two crops per season from the same plants. In the first year, the greenhouse can be used to grow seedlings and then leave the seedlings in a permanent place, so there is no need to dig, store and plant them.
Semi-repairable varieties of strawberries (Talisman, Redgauntlet, Zenga Zengana and others) are planted in greenhouses, which, under appropriate conditions, give a second crop in 2-2.5 months. after the first, In other crop rotations, plants stored in the refrigerator are used.
They are planted 5-10 days after covering the greenhouse with foil, when the soil warms up to 7-10°C. The best strawberry plants for forcing in greenhouses are those that have a well-developed bush, with three to five horns, with flower buds that have undergone differentiation (at a 10-12-hour day and a temperature not higher than 12 ° C).
In addition, the plants must go through a dormant period at temperatures from 0 to +5°C for 30 days or more. Plants are planted in multi-line ribbons on ridges 90 cm wide; for a single forcing, they can be placed from 22 to 28 pcs/m2.
If the plants are used during two growing seasons, the planting pattern should be two or three rows with a planting density of 9 to 17 plants/m2. In connection with the growth of bushes in three-line planting tapes, plantings can be thinned out by removing the middle line after the first harvest.
This creates better conditions for the remaining plants and makes it possible to grow compact crops. In combined plantings of strawberries and tomatoes, when growing the first crop for two seasons, tomato plants are removed after fruiting.
During the growing season, the plants are regularly watered with water heated to 35-40 ° C, maintaining the optimum soil moisture of 80% of the total field moisture capacity (FWC) during the start of forcing and leaf growth, 70% of the FWF - during the period of budding, 60% of PPV - during flowering and fruit formation). On poor soils, plants are weekly fed with complex soluble fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium (in a ratio of 10:5:20:6); they are introduced at a concentration of 50 g / l, spending 10 liters of solution per 1 m2.
To prevent the formation of underdeveloped berries, it is necessary to create normal conditions for the pollination of flowers, avoiding supercooling of the air or its strong heating, up to 35-40 ° C. Greenhouses need to be ventilated regularly. Artificial pollination is carried out mechanically or with the involvement of bees.
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