Installing an air conditioner with your own hands involves performing a number of works, including choosing a kit for installation, a place for equipment, taking into account all the rules, as well as directly installing the indoor and outdoor units. A split system is the most common version of such a technique, as it has fewer disadvantages along with a fairly high work efficiency.

Device location rules

Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner will not affect performance if you follow the instructions supplied with such equipment (if a new device is purchased). Often, the indoor unit is installed at a considerable distance from the ceiling level. This option is quite acceptable, it is much more important to observe the minimum size between the device and the ceiling, which is 10 cm.

The installation height of the air conditioner is also determined on the basis of convenience and safety, since constant exposure to a direct stream of cool air from the indoor unit can cause frequent illnesses. Given the fact that a split system requires air circulation, it is important to choose an area within a radius of 2 m where there will be free space.

Installing an air conditioner yourself also involves installing an outdoor unit. At this stage, a number of work to be done will depend on where the equipment is installed. If we are talking about a private house or the first floors of multi-storey buildings, then there is an opportunity to fix the block on our own. The installation of an air conditioner in an apartment on the upper floors must be carried out without fail by high-altitude installers. If there is a balcony, then you don’t have to call the masters.

The best location for the outdoor unit is under the window or at the level of its middle. At the same time, it will be convenient to carry out installation, it will also simplify the process of further maintenance of equipment.

The rules for installing air conditioners also include the calculation of the length of the tracks. In order to avoid further inconvenience associated with refueling the device, it is necessary to position both blocks in such a way that the length of the route that connects them does not exceed 6 m. The minimum allowable size is 1.5 m. at a rough calculation, it turned out that the length of the route exceeds the maximum value, it is necessary to re-plan the equipment attachment points and achieve an acceptable length of the route.

Independent installation of an air conditioner is sometimes fraught with a number of errors, among which the most common is non-compliance with the minimum value of the route length. If the outdoor and indoor units are supposed to be mounted in close proximity to each other (that is, on both sides of the building's load-bearing wall), then it is important to leave a margin, the so-called loop. This will smooth out the vibration interference that occurs during the operation of the equipment, and also somewhat reduce the noise effect.

If you ignore the rules for installing an air conditioner in an apartment, given the relatively small area of \u200b\u200bthe room, the operation of the equipment can cause poor sleep for households. In the case where the indoor and outdoor units are mounted at some distance from each other, there is no need for a loop.

Tool, accessories for device installation

Equipment for the installation of air conditioners includes a number of specialized equipment that allows you to easily equip the units with the necessary components for full-fledged work. So, a pipe bender and a pipe cutter may be required - the devices allow you to change the configuration of the pipe without collateral damage and without forming chips, since there is a risk of it getting into the filter system. The manometric station allows you to control the level of refrigerant pressure. Installation and installation of air conditioners includes the need to control the tightness of the system before filling with freon, for this a vacuum gauge is used.

After the refrigerant has been charged, a leak test should be performed, for this a leak detector is activated. Additionally, if necessary, other equipment can be used, for example, a vacuum pump. Allows you to perform preventive and repair work during the maintenance of equipment. The tool for installing air conditioners includes an electric drill, a hammer drill, drills for making holes in concrete walls, and a wall chaser may also be required if you need to hide connecting routes. To maintain a strictly horizontal position of the equipment, it is imperative to use the building level.

When doing the installation yourself, you need to purchase a kit for installing the air conditioner. Today there are ready-made kits that include all the necessary parts and elements for the full connection of the blocks and setting up their work without losing the efficiency of the system. As a rule, it includes connecting nuts of different sizes, heat-insulating material and copper pipes, a hose that performs the function of drainage, and two brackets for mounting the outdoor unit. The length of pipes and drainage is selected taking into account the configuration of the room, that is, you can choose a package that suits the individual requirements of housing.

All consumables for the installation of air conditioners are selected based on the model of equipment. You should also not save on the quality of connecting pipes, thermal insulation, fasteners and freon, since the duration of the air conditioning system and the absence of the need for repairs, which may entail unnecessary costs, directly depend on this.

Incorrect operation of the equipment, for example, running the system completely without refrigerant in it, will cause the compressor to fail in a very short time, and the replacement of this unit can cost more than two-thirds of the total cost of the entire system.

Installing and maintaining air conditioners, subject to regularity, will help to avoid such consequences, you only need to periodically clean the system and monitor the level of freon in it.

Mounting Features

The air conditioner usually comes with a mounting plate, which is necessary for attaching the indoor unit of the device. The air conditioner installation scheme involves drawing up a small project that determines the exact location and height of the installation of the indoor and outdoor units, the length and path of the connecting route.

In this case, it is important to follow the sequence of actions, for which an instruction for installing an air conditioner has been created:

First of all, the panel is mounted on the wall in a certain place, as well as at the appropriate level. Such nuances are determined at the design stage. The mounting plate is installed using the building level, which will allow you to get a strictly horizontal line. Mounting points are marked with a pen / marker so as not to lose sight of the exact center distances.
Then you need to drill a hole in the wall of sufficient size for the routes to pass through it. If there is no appropriate equipment at hand, you can try to bring the connecting pipes through the window opening by drilling holes in the frame.
Installation and repair of air conditioners are directly related: the more accurately and correctly all the work is done, the less often you will have to call the master to adjust and repair the equipment. Therefore, you need to take into account even such nuances as the slope of the drainage hole, which will allow you to easily remove accumulated moisture.
Installing the outdoor unit of the air conditioner requires special care due to its heavy weight. Brackets are attached to the wall according to the size of the device. It is important that the thickness of the metal of these elements is sufficient to withstand such a load. All work that needs to be performed on floors above the second is carried out only by high-altitude installers.

Next, it remains to expand the pipes and fix the ends of the routes to each of the blocks. It should be noted that when drilling a hole in the wall for laying pipes, the minimum diameter is 5 cm. If the routes pass through the window frame, then a separate hole is drilled for each pipe. Thus, the installation of domestic air conditioners includes several basic steps and does not require significant financial investments if you know how to use the tool.

Installation tips. Where is the best place to install an air conditioner?

Before you buy a split system in Krasnodar, it is advisable to determine the place where you will hang it.

It is technically possible to install an air conditioner in a room absolutely anywhere, however, for its high-quality work, without the risk of failure, there are certain rules and some nuances that must be observed during installation.

In this article, we will try to describe in as much detail as possible the most common mistakes during the installation process, as well as give recommendations on the correct installation of the air conditioner in order to avoid unforeseen problems in the future.

1. Install the indoor unit of the split system at a distance of at least 10 cm from the ceiling. Because the air conditioner takes its cooling/heating air from inside (not outside), the small distance from the ceiling to the top of the ceiling (where the air intake grille is) can make it difficult to recirculate the air. In this case, firstly, the air conditioner will not be able to produce enough cold / heat, and secondly, it will work for wear, which will lead to a quick failure of its compressor. That is why it is forbidden to put various objects on the air conditioner and cover its upper part. If you are installing an air conditioner at the stage of repair, take into account the possible lowering of the ceiling level (stretch ceilings, plaster ceilings, etc.).

2. Do not mount the indoor unit of the split system above cabinets, shelves, chests of drawers if the distance from them to the lower edge of the indoor unit is less than 70-100 cm. Firstly, this causes dust accumulated on the top surface of the cabinet to be blown off every time the air conditioner is turned on. Moreover, the close location of horizontal surfaces leads to the creation of a circulation of the air flow, which leads to a decrease in the efficiency of the air conditioning system. The flow from the air conditioner is drawn back into the air intake, the air exchange in the room worsens, the air conditioner, taking in cold air, begins to "think" that it is time to stop its work, because the temperature sensor is located at the flow inlet.

3. The air flow must not be directed directly at people. When working in the cold, the temperature of the air stream from the air conditioner is 7-15 ° C lower than the ambient air temperature in the room. If such a stream blows on a person for at least a few tens of minutes, poor health is subsequently ensured. As a rule, air is directed so that it passes between workplaces or where people are least likely to be. In the bedroom, you often have to make a choice on which wall in relation to the bed to hang the air conditioner. Most often, people are afraid to place the indoor unit over their heads and mount the unit on the wall to which their feet are facing. If it is not possible to remove the unit from the bed as much as possible and direct the air in the other direction, it is better to mount it overhead. In this case, cold air will not blow on the head, but on the legs, which are usually covered with a blanket.

4. Do not mount the air conditioner indoor unit above a heat source (such as a radiator). Due to the flow of warm air rising from the heat source, the air conditioner will think that it is not cooling the room enough, and will work for wear, as a result of which it will quickly fail. In addition, excessive heat may cause the plastic casing of the indoor unit to be deformed.

5. Do not install the air conditioner in a place where air circulation will be difficult (for example, behind curtains, etc.). The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. The cooled (or heated) air flow from the air conditioner will be reflected from the obstacle and return back with the same temperature with which it "came out". The air conditioner decides that the work has been done, the desired climate is set and turns off.

6. The indoor unit of the split system must be installed strictly according to the level. This is necessary so that the moisture condensed on the heat exchanger can be freely removed to the outside through the drainage system. If the indoor unit is installed with a significant skew (±3-4 mm is allowed), there is a possibility that water will accumulate in the drain pan and periodically flow out of it directly onto your floor.

7. It is not recommended to install the air conditioner in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations are constantly operating.(e.g. drill, drilling machine). High-frequency vibrations can knock down the chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.

8. Try to install the indoor unit so that the length of the refrigerant pipe is as short as possible. Firstly, a long route increases the cost of installation, and secondly, it reduces work efficiency. Moreover, if you decide to lay the track in a box, then a long box through the entire wall greatly spoils the interior.

9. If possible, run a separate power cable to the air conditioner. To any, even a low-power air conditioner, it is necessary to carry out a separate electrical wiring and put a separate machine in the electrical panel. Because the old wiring may not withstand the load and it will ignite. Be especially vigilant if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, the wiring is not designed for the loads from the use of powerful electrical equipment.

1. Do not install the outdoor unit on a glazed balcony or loggia because heat dissipation will be very difficult. Installation is only possible if the windows can be opened wide. In this case, it is necessary to pay attention to the operating range of outdoor air temperatures. The upper temperature limit for different air conditioners is not the same and ranges from 40 to 46 C.

2. The outdoor unit should not cause inconvenience to your neighbors(noise, dripping condensate).

3. Try to place the outdoor unit in such a way that the sun's rays fall on it as little as possible. The direct rays of the sun can provoke a protective shutdown of the device due to overheating.

4. Locate the outdoor unit in such a way that during operation, the heat removed from the room is freely discharged into the environment.(For example, do not install the outdoor unit where the prevailing wind is directed towards the air conditioner, otherwise the normal operation of the fan will be disturbed).

5. Do not place the outdoor unit in close proximity to the canopy of trees. Leaves and fluff from poplars clog the heat exchanger, moreover, during gusts of wind, branches can get into the equipment, damage the fan or heat exchanger fins. If, nevertheless, your house is all buried in greenery, then you need to cut down some of the branches located next to the air conditioner.

6. It is forbidden to install outdoor units on the ground and in those places where they can be soiled with mud, covered with snow, flooded with rain or sewage. Blocks must be installed on a special stand.

7. It is forbidden to install outdoor units in places where there is a possibility of leakage of explosive gases. In particular, this applies to the air conditioning of the first and second floors, where gas pipes of gasified buildings usually pass.

8. When placing the outdoor unit on the first floor, install it in a special protective grid. This will prevent theft and acts of vandalism.

9. Take care of the condensate drain. Most often, condensate is discharged to the street. In this case, the flowing water should not fall on the wall of the building. Condensate discharge to the sewer is preferable, but expensive. If you plan to install a block above the sidewalk, then this is the only acceptable option.

10. Do not install the outdoor unit on a weak base, for example, on a wall made of hollow bricks or thin metal. The fragility of the supporting structure almost always causes excessive noise, the elimination of which takes a lot of effort and money. Yes, and the air conditioner can simply fall.

If you need a high-quality installation (installation) of split systems in Krasnodar, the company's specialists will help you with this website

Now more and more people want to buy and install a split system in their apartment. And it's not just air conditioning. Split system allows you to better freshen the air in the premises. What is its advantage? First of all, it does not block natural light, as it does not crash into the window frame. The second advantage is that it does not depend on the general air conditioning system of the house as a whole. And the last - it consists of only two blocks: internal and external. The only reason why a large number of consumers do not dare to purchase a split system is ignorance of the rules for its installation. Consider all the steps in order and tell you how to install a split system yourself.

Compound

First of all, you need to know what this air conditioning system consists of. It is equipped with two separate units: the outer one - the condenser, and the inner one - the evaporator. They communicate with each other by means of electrical wires and two tubes made of copper through which the refrigerant circulates. In addition, the indoor unit is equipped with a thin plastic tube that performs a drainage function, i.e. removes condensed moisture from the system. According to the rules, it must be connected to a special tank for draining or to a sewer pipe, but for some reason, most often it turns out to be brought out, and water from it drips directly onto the heads or under the feet of passers-by.

Principle of operation

It is quite simple and lies in the fact that if the room needs to be cooled, then freon flows through a copper tube from the heat exchanger of the external unit to the heat exchanger of the internal one. Thus, the refrigerant is processed by the fan, and already cold air comes out from the inside of the air conditioner.

If, on the contrary, the room needs to be heated, then the external condenser heat pump starts to work as an evaporator, and the evaporator, in turn, acts as a condenser. The split system is also equipped with a compressor located in the outdoor unit. Its main function is to compress freon, which contributes to a significant increase in the efficiency of the air conditioner.

Mounting methods

Indoor units of split systems can be either wall-mounted or floor-to-ceiling. The latter can be successfully attached to both the ceiling and the floor. Most often, wall blocks are used in apartments of multi-storey buildings. They are equipped with movable blinds, with which you can change the direction of the flow of air masses.

The power of the wall blocks is limited by the manufacturers themselves, since if the jet of chilled air is too strong in a small room, it can literally blow away everything that is there. In the event that the room is quite spacious, for example, it is an office or a workshop, then a more powerful split system with a floor-to-ceiling indoor unit is installed in it.

Mounting tools

In order to install a split system with your own hands, you will need a number of devices that you will have to purchase or rent. The quality of the work performed and the durability of your air conditioner directly depend on what tool you will use during the installation process. You will need:

● Perforator with a set of chisels. It is useful in order to make holes in the main wall.

● Armature detector. It may be needed if the walls in the house are made of concrete. If during drilling the tool gets on the reinforcement, you will have to make another hole.

● Tube flaring kit. It will not be possible to do this work with improvised means, since it will be impossible to achieve complete tightness.

● Pipe cutter. Under no circumstances should you saw off the pipes through which the refrigerant circulates with an ordinary hacksaw. Copper chips always remain in the gap, which can subsequently lead to compressor failure.

● Scraping. This tool is used for stripping the cut ends of pipes. Ordinary files or needle files are not suitable for this purpose precisely because of the sawdust.

● Manometer. It will be needed to measure the pressure of the refrigerant in the system.

● Vacuum pump. It is necessary to process the system before filling it. Quite often you can hear the advice that it can be flushed with coolant. This is fundamentally wrong, since it does not remove moisture and spoils the compressor, just like metal chips.

● Manual bicycle pump. It is used to test the system for leaks.

● Tester and phase indicator. These devices are necessary for electrical work.

Tubes and work with them

Experts recommend buying a copper tube in a store in a whole bay at once, and it does not matter if there is an extra one. It can be applied elsewhere. But if iron filings remain in the cut tube, you risk ruining your air conditioner compressor. Also, when buying it, you need to make sure that there are no visible cracks and dents on the surface, and its ends are rolled by the manufacturer.

Before you install the split system yourself, you need to practice flaring the tubes. It is worth noting that this procedure is done only with a special tool and nothing else.

To practice working with flaring, you need to take the same small piece with the pipe in the store, but do not touch the bay itself. At the same time, it will be possible to try to cut the tube in a circular motion, as well as to scrape the product, holding it with the end down.

Installation

In order to make a high-quality installation of a split system with your own hands, you need to know the sequence of actions. Professionals recommend installing air conditioners only before or during repairs, as you still have to gouge the walls, lay electrical wiring and attach brackets. If the repair has already been made, then all communications can be hidden with the help of external boxes, but this, as you yourself understand, will not improve the interior. How to install the split system yourself correctly will help you understand the phased implementation of this work.

Stage one: wiring

If we take even the most low-power modern air conditioner, which consumes 1.5 kW of electricity, then it also needs to lay a separate wiring with a cross section of at least 1.5 square meters. mm. In addition, you will need an automatic shutdown.
When connecting the wires to the input shield, it is necessary to find where the phase and zero are located with a special indicator, and after determining, mark them from both ends.

Stage two: outdoor unit

It is strongly not recommended to install the outdoor unit of a split system on your own if your apartment is not located on the first floor, as there is a risk of falling from a height. But on the other hand, due to the presence of loggias and balconies on the upper floors, this problem practically does not exist. In addition, maintenance and repair of air conditioners in such cases become more convenient.

Typically, a split system is installed on the east or north side of the house. But even if you had to attach the outdoor unit from the south, the balcony canopy will still protect it from direct exposure to sunlight.

Stage three: indoor unit

In order for the installation of a split system with your own hands to be successful, you must strictly follow the sequence of actions. First, with the help of screws, special brackets are attached to the ceiling (if it is a floor-to-ceiling air conditioner) or to the wall (wall-mounted system). Having finished this work, it is necessary to check the strength of the fastening, namely, install the indoor unit and connect it. If the structure does not stagger or vibrate, then the brackets are securely fixed.

It is easiest to install a split system with a floor unit, since it usually does not need fasteners. But all the same, it is necessary to finally decide on its location, because after laying communications it will be impossible to rearrange it.

Stage four: punching gutters

If you doubt your knowledge or are not sure about something, you can always get advice from a specialist who will tell you how to install a split system yourself and connect freon tubes and electrical wires, thereby connecting the two units to each other. For this, special gutters are usually punched on the ceiling or in the walls, but only if you need to lay a hidden highway.

If you do not want to hammer, then there is another option. All wires can be closed with skirting boards or decorative plastic boxes.

If a multi-storey building consists of blocks, then before you start punching a hole in the wall, it is necessary to determine in advance with the help of an armature detector the places where the iron core lies. In no case can you cut off the reinforcement, since it is located in the external load-bearing wall. According to the standard, the hole diameter should be at least 80 mm. Sometimes you can hear recommendations about 50-60 cm, but here the thickness of the thermal insulation was clearly not taken into account.

In addition, you will definitely need an assistant to stand below and warn people passing nearby, as a piece of brick or concrete that accidentally falls from a height can injure someone. Such an incident can cost the owner too much.

Stage five: connecting pipelines

In order not to make a mistake and connect all the tubes correctly, you need to study the instructions well on how to properly install a split system. First you need to measure the desired length of the tube and cut it off with a margin of at least 1 m. All the excess will go to the bends.

Professionals warn that tubes must be bent with great care, as they can break, and sometimes wrinkles form on their surface. They create obstacles to the free flow of refrigerant, which leads to a significant increase in energy consumption. The minimum allowable bending radius is 100 mm.

Then, polyurethane foam hoses or flex thermal insulation are put on the tubes. The use of foam rubber is highly undesirable. After that, threaded flanges are put on them, and the ends are flared. Next, the pipelines are connected to fittings. In this work, the main thing is not to confuse the connection. Most air conditioner manufacturers have made cold and hot fittings different in diameter.

For the drainage system, you will need a piece of reinforced plastic tube. It is connected to the drain pipe using a heat-shrinkable tube or a threaded flange. Drainage should be installed at a slope of at least 5-10 mm. This is necessary for the natural flow of water.

Sometimes, for some reason, such an inclination cannot be made. In this case, you will have to additionally install a special pump for pumping moisture. I must say that its purchase can cost about 70-200 dollars. The price depends on the pump model.

Step Six: Sealing and Vacuuming

The easiest and most reliable way to check the tightness is with a soapy solution. To prepare it, you need to buy half a liter of distilled water at the pharmacy and heat it, then throw shavings of laundry soap into it.

By using the rubber hose of a bicycle hand pump connected to the outlet nipple, you can easily check the sealing quality. This is done as follows: one worker pumps air, and the other brush smears soapy water on the threaded connection and monitors the appearance of bubbles. When they stop puffing up, tighten another 1/8 turn. After completion of work, the soap coating is removed with a damp cloth.

After completing the sealing test, the system must be evacuated, i.e., remove moisture from it, dust and air that have got there. To do this, return the nipple to its place and tighten. Next, connect the vacuum pump and pump for about an hour. During this time, the moisture from the system should evaporate along with the remaining air.

Final stage: testing

For testing, the split system is filled with refrigerant from a cylinder through a special adapter on which a pressure gauge is installed. Wait until the pressure gauge shows the pressure indicated in the instructions. It is worth noting here that air conditioners operating on freon cannot be filled with freon, and vice versa.

During testing, the disconnector is turned on, and the air conditioner should enter the mode itself. If this does not happen, you need to try running the test using the remote control. If this does not help, you will still have to call specialists, but be aware that all installation warranties have already been lost.

In the event that the test is passed successfully, the cold air has gone and the blinds have been set to the desired position, you can safely tell yourself and others that you now know how to install a split system yourself. And the final touch - you need to close up a hole in the wall. And not with foam, but capitally.

Split systems are special equipment that ensures the creation of a high-quality and efficient air conditioning system. It is represented by two different blocks, one of which is located in a specific room, and the other is mounted on the wall of the building. In another way, such a system is called standard air conditioning. Installing a split system is not difficult if you know exactly what elements it consists of, what tools you need to use and in what sequential actions the work is implemented.

The principle of operation of the air conditioner

This device has a rather complex design, so before installing it directly, you should study well what components it consists of. The principle of its work consists in the following processes:

through a nozzle or die, which is a small hole, under considerable pressure, a refrigerant is supplied to the evaporator, represented by a low-boiling solution with a high heat of evaporation;
in the evaporator, the refrigerant first expands, and then boils and evaporates, which leads to the absorption of a huge amount of heat;
a lot of water condensate appears on the evaporator radiator, flowing into a special container and escaping out through the drain pipe;
refrigerant vapor from the evaporator is constantly pumped out by a special compressor, the principle of operation of which is similar to a vacuum pump;
as the pressure increases behind the pump, the refrigerant heats up, so it goes into a unique supercritical state, therefore it is presented as a mist;
in this form, it passes into the condensation chamber, in which a special radiator with a fan is also installed;
in this chamber, the temperature of the refrigerant decreases, so it passes into a liquid state;
through the spinneret again it enters the evaporator, after which the full cycle is repeated.

The nuances of the correct operation of the air conditioner

Split systems, which are installed on their own, should be installed in such areas of the room so that optimal operating conditions are provided for them.

For this, the following key points are taken into account:

it is not allowed to connect the cold zones of the equipment with hot ones, since this will lead to a significant consumption of electrical energy, so the installation is carried out according to this rule;
dust or debris must not enter the system, since various crumbs and dust can easily cause damage to the vacuum pump, which is the most important element of the device;
during operation, the tightness of the system cannot be violated, since even the smallest cracks can become the basis for the evaporation of a low-boiling liquid - a refrigerant;
the outdoor unit is mounted in such a way that it is slightly lower than the indoor element, which will positively affect the efficiency of the compressor and energy consumption;
it is desirable that the outdoor unit is located in a cool and shady area of \u200b\u200bthe wall of the building, since its heating leads to difficulties in the operation of the system;
the drainage tube is brought out in such a way that it does not have any bends.

If all the above conditions are followed, then a correct, efficient and optimal installation of the equipment is ensured.

What is an air split?

Split systems are represented by two different blocks. The evaporative element is located inside the room that needs cooling, and the condensing element is outside. Modern equipment has the ability not only to cool rooms, but even to heat them.

If expensive equipment is purchased, it may consist of one outdoor element to which several indoor units are connected. Although the cost of all elements will be quite high, however, during operation, the created system is considered economical.

The nuances of mounting the device

The installation of an air conditioner, the instructions of which are given below, is usually carried out in the process of repair work in a particular room. The fact is that quite complex and specific work is being carried out. To do this, electrical wiring is carried out along the wall of the room, and a drainage tube is also displayed. For an attractive appearance of the entire room and facade, it is desirable to hide all elements of the installation behind finishing materials.

Before direct work, tools are prepared that are useful for installation. These include:

perforator for creating holes in the walls;
reinforcing reinforcement required for concrete walls;
a pipe cutter that cuts pipes designed to move the refrigerant;
a set required for expanding these pipes;
An example that provides optimal stripping of the ends of pipelines;
a low-power hand pump, with which the tightness of the device is checked;
a vacuum pump that evacuates the system, which is necessary before it is completely filled;
phase indicator;
manometer;
a tester used in the process of implementing electrical work.

Sequential split system installation technology

Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner is carried out in certain sequential stages. Each action is given enough attention and time to ensure the perfect result of the work. These stages include:

The split system itself is purchased, consisting of two blocks. Tubes and other elements, materials and tools are also purchased to ensure efficient installation of equipment. Usually a copper pipe is bought in a full-fledged bay, and all ends must be rolled. Dents or other imperfections are not allowed on the elements.
The tubes are cut into the required length elements. Next is their scraping. After that, they flare up.
It is determined exactly where the main elements of the system will be located - the indoor and outdoor units, for which marking is applied to the walls of the room and the walls. It is not allowed to mount the indoor unit above different elements of the heating system. Also, curtains or other screens should not close the block. It is not recommended that other powerful electrical appliances be located in the same room as the equipment.
In accordance with the markings, electrical wiring is laid. Air conditioners are powerful devices that consume more than 1.5 kW, so high-quality and reliable wiring is selected for them, the cross section of which will be more than 1.5 square meters. mm. A shut-off switch is also required.
The outdoor unit of the system is mounted. If the work is not carried out on the first floor, then it is best to trust them to specialists, since doing work on your own at a considerable height is not only difficult, but also extremely dangerous. It is allowed to work independently only if the installation is carried out on a balcony or loggia. High-quality and reliable brackets are used for installation. This arrangement of the outdoor unit is not only easy to install, but also facilitates the maintenance of the entire system in the future.
To connect communications in the wall, a hole of a suitable diameter is created. It is important to clarify in advance where the reinforcement passes in the wall. The diameter of the resulting hole is created more than 8 cm.
Pipes are being prepared and pipelines are being laid.
The electrical connections of the two units of the system are established. For this, stranded wires equipped with insulation are used.
The performance and tightness of all elements of the equipment are checked.
A vacuum is created in the system. This is necessary in order to completely eliminate air from it, and together with the dust present in it. Additionally, this process eliminates moisture found in individual pieces of equipment. To do this, a nipple is installed in the desired section of the device, which is carefully tightened. A reliable and efficient vacuum pump is connected to it. Pumping of the system begins, and usually work is done within one hour, which will ensure complete evaporation of moisture and pumping air out of the system.
The equipment is being filled with refrigerant. For this, an optimally sized refrigerant cylinder is used. It connects to the equipment through an adapter equipped with a pressure gauge so that you can easily track the pressure in the system.
The equipment is connected to electricity. For correct operation, the designations on the terminal block are taken into account.
The resulting system is tested to make sure it works and is safe to use. When the air conditioner is turned on, the test mode is automatically turned on, which can also be turned on through the remote control.
The harness between the blocks is additionally insulated.
The hole created earlier is sealed in the wall.

Thus, installing an air conditioner with your own hands, the video of which can be viewed below, is considered an understandable, but also difficult job that requires careful study of the instructions, the use of high-quality materials and a competent approach to each stage of work.

Video instruction for installing the air conditioner

By controlling the microclimate of personal space, we create conditions that are optimal for rest, work, and classes. Installing a split system will allow you to set a favorable level of temperature and humidity in the simplest way. Agree, in the summer period there are many days that need to be regulated by climatic parameters.

After reading the article we have proposed, you will learn all the details and subtleties of the installation of air conditioning equipment. Carefully selected and systematized information will be useful both for independent home masters and for customers of installers' services to check proper execution.

We describe in detail the installation process, lists the nuances of the location and fastening of the blocks. The materials required for the installation and connection of the units are listed. A valuable addition to the text, which facilitates the perception of information, are photo and video applications.

When studying information on how to properly install a split system in a private house or apartment, you first need to choose the location of its parts.

To do this, it is necessary to take into account the direction of distribution of the flow of cold / hot air in the room, taking into account the basic technical requirements specified by the equipment manufacturer in the instructions.

The most common options for the location of the indoor unit of the split system are above the bed / sofa. Outdoor - usually taken out into the street and installed on a site near a window or on balcony slabs

There are certain rules that must be taken into account when choosing a block placement point:

the distance between the unit and the ceiling should be at least 15-20 cm, although some manufacturers indicate 20-30 cm in the instructions;
from the side to the wall - not less than 30 cm;
to a barrier that will impede the flow of outgoing air or dissipate it - at least 150 cm.

For the outer part of the split system, the location is chosen based on the bearing capacity of the walls. Installation is possible near the window, on the plates enclosing the loggia, or on the wall next to the balcony.

For those who live on the lower floors, the installation of the block is carried out above the window - as far as possible from passers-by.

Based on the technical requirements for the wall of the ventilation facade used as a platform for fixing the outdoor unit of the split system - the possible load capacity should be 2.5 times the mass of the installation unit

For a multi-storey building, especially if the apartment is located on the top floor, it will be necessary to involve high-rise specialists or determine the installation point as close as possible to the window, which will provide easy access during installation.

Determining the distance between blocks

Often the choice of equipment location is regulated by the minimum and maximum distance between its parts. These indicators are mainly indicated by the manufacturer and depend on the model range and characteristics.

Sometimes firms do not indicate the minimum length of the circuit between two units, so installation can be done arbitrarily.

The minimum distance between the blocks of a split system from Daikin is 1.5-2.5 m, Panasonic - up to 3 m. However, if the blocks are located a meter apart, the length of the route must be at least 5 m (its excess is rolled into a ring and hidden behind the block)

It is a little easier to deal with the maximum possible distance between the two units. The standard indicator is 5 m. It is also possible to increase the length of the route, but in this case it is necessary to count on additional costs due to the need to refuel with freon.

Preparation for work

The decision to start installing a split system on your own comes, as a rule, after clarifying the prices from specialists. Incredibly high amounts for the performance of the work, which takes 3 hours, are argued by the presence of expensive tools and its wear and tear during operation. This is what makes up the bulk of the fee for the services of the master.

If the prices from split system installers are too high, you should do the installation yourself, having thoroughly studied the technology of this type of work

If you look at the recommendations of equipment manufacturers, then often the instructions indicate that the preparatory work can be done on your own, but for the installation of pipelines, connection to the electrical network, and the vacuuming process, it is advisable to invite specialists with the appropriate tools.

Hardware installation tools

It is possible to carry out independent installation of the cooling unit, because. most of the tools are in the suitcase of the home master. An exception may be a vacuum pump, but it is not necessary to buy it - it will be possible to make such a unit from old parts.

Some teams of masters do not even use this equipment when laying a route up to 6 m long.

If, when installing the air conditioner yourself, it was not possible to find a vacuum pump, an alternative would be a powerful compressor from an old refrigerator or an aquarium blower

During the installation process, an important aspect is the observance of the horizontal position of the block systems. In connection with these requirements, each stage of work must be accompanied by a control check by the building level.

If a tool is not available, it can be rented from a hardware store.

The following equipment will need to be prepared in advance:

Perforator. It is used to make holes in the facade, through which a route will be laid, generalizing the external and internal blocks.
Drill with a set of drills. Used for mounting fasteners.
Pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes.
Device for removing burrs after cutting pipes. You can use a reamer, file and sandpaper.
Roller of copper pipes.

Some believe that the use of a reamer does not make sense, especially if the new one does not leave burrs and dents, but in vain.

Only after the beveler has been manipulated, the edge of the flared tube can be pressed as tightly as possible with the nut, and, accordingly, freon leakage is unlikely.

The work of the device for expanding copper pipes is carried out by the method of deformation of the tube according to the selected pattern, as a result of which a cone is formed. At the same time, the original wall thickness and round section are preserved.

According to the technical installation rules, a vacuum pump is required - the air conditioning system is sealed with this equipment. After filling the line with refrigerant, the process of evacuation is carried out.

Acquisition of necessary materials

You will need a lot of components, but they are all easily available in any specialized store. Do not forget that the materials must be of the highest quality and selected exclusively for a device that is functionally aimed at cold.

It is necessary to purchase a wire for supplying power and connecting the units. The required parameters are always indicated in the passport or in the equipment installation instructions.

Standard is a four-core power cable with a cross-sectional area of 2 mm 2 or 2.5 mm 2. The length is selected based on the distance of the route, taking into account a small margin.

You will also need to prepare thick-walled seamless pipes made of soft copper, designed for cooling appliances. Pipes are selected smaller and larger diameters. For more specific specifications, please refer to the user manual.

The length is equal to the length of the route plus an additional margin of up to 30 cm. During the transportation of the tubes, their edges must be covered to protect against dust settling inside the product.

Pipes are selected exclusively for the cooling system, their soft copper alloy lends itself well to flaring and ensures proper tightness

Foam rubber insulation is used to insulate pipes. They sell it in segments of 2 m. To implement measures for thermal insulation, a length equal to the length of the route will be required. Synthetic insulation is used on two pipe diameters.

As a drainage tube, experts recommend installing a corrugated hose equipped with a plastic spiral inside. You can also use an alternative part - a polypropylene tube. Its length is equal to the length of the track with a surcharge of 80 cm.

You will also need two L-type brackets to secure the unit from the outside. The suitable size of the parts is determined by its dimensions, and the margin of safety for the bearing load must exceed its weight by 5 times. Such an increase in the maximum allowable stress of the part is required to compensate for the loads of wind and snow.

It is better to buy these components in a company that sells spare parts for household split systems.

After purchasing the bracket for mounting the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, do not make additional holes in it, because. this significantly reduces the margin of safety of the part

As fastening parts are used: anchors, dowels and bolts. Their number, type and parameters are selected based on the type of brackets and mounting plate intended for the indoor unit.

The type of walls where the outer part of the system is to be mounted also matters. To camouflage the laid communication line, you will need a plastic box with standard dimensions of 60 * 80 cm.

Split system installation procedure

Installing an air conditioning system on your own is a very real task, however, there are many nuances in the work and they relate to certain models, so the installation process may have some differences. To study all the requirements, you must first read the instructions specifically for the purchased equipment model.

Stage # 1 - installation of outdoor and indoor units

The indoor unit is to be installed first. Having decided on the location of its location, the area for the mounting card is marked on the wall. After drilling backlashes, plastic plugs for dowels are inserted, a card is hung and fixed with dowels.

The most thorough fastening should be done at the bottom of the plate, because. on this site are the latches that hold the block

After installing the cassette, using the building level, the exposure to the strict horizontal placement of the future block is measured. In case of any discrepancy, it will be necessary to redo all the work performed.

At this stage, preparatory work for laying the tracks is coming. First, the line of its location is calculated. Then a hole is drilled in the facade wall, taking into account the required slope of more than 1/100.

Also, a hole with a diameter of 5 cm is drilled with a slope, while the angle of inclination can be increased in comparison with the route. So, the formed condensate will better leave the system.

When choosing a back-to-back mounting scheme for the units, it is required to check the hole designed to accommodate the power cable. To do this, check the location of the power ports on the units.

And now it is the turn of the installation of the outdoor unit. If we are talking about a multi-storey building, then you will need special equipment for high-altitude work.

As in the first case, the strict horizontal position of the block must be maintained, therefore, a level is also used at the markup stage.

When positioning the outdoor unit, the limitation regarding its slope must be taken into account - the maximum allowable slope angle is 45°

At the time of installation of fasteners, each existing hole must be filled with anchor bolts (standard diameter 10 * 100 mm), regardless of their number. After that, the outdoor unit is exposed and also fixed with fasteners.

Stage # 2 - laying a communication line

With the help of an electric wire and two copper tubes, the connection between the outdoor and indoor units is carried out. Additionally, a drainage system will be laid through the wall, which is responsible for removing condensate. These elements must be properly selected, connected, laid and secured.

First, you should prepare the copper pipes by cutting the desired length with a pipe cutter and treating the edges with a reamer from burrs and dents after the cutting procedure.

It is not recommended to use other tools such as a file. After its application, metal chips get inside the tube, which will circulate through the system and eventually lead to the failure of the compressor.

To lead copper pipes through the wall, their edges must be insulated with a plug to protect against dust

Thermal insulation of tubes is carried out by putting polyurethane foam hoses on them. Foam rubber cannot be chosen as a sealant - it has a short service life. After completing the measures for thermal insulation, all the connecting sections of the material are tightly glued with metallized adhesive tape.

Now it was the turn to lay the drainage and cable. For each wire you need to put on a special tip. They are installed on conductors cleared of insulating material and crimped with tongs.

The finished cable is connected to the air conditioner according to the diagram given in the manual for the device.

On both units, in the area slightly above the ports, there is a removable plate for connecting copper pipes. Under it there are electrical connectors for the cable.

The drain tube is connected to a special outlet on the indoor unit and is led out through a hole in the wall. The tube must be long enough and end at least 60 cm from the wall.

According to the rules, its laying is carried out at an angle to the exit to the outside. Requires fixing with clamps every meter of length to eliminate sagging in order to prevent the accumulation of condensate.

Stage # 3 - connecting the system blocks

Communications carried out through the wall are connected to the corresponding ports. It is important to remember that the total length of the drainage pipeline cannot be more than 20 m. Copper pipes are laid in a loop to trap oil, which is contained in a small amount in freon.

Drainage can be diverted in two ways: bring it into the sewer or into the street. The first method is technically correct, however, due to the complexity of reproduction, it is not widely used.

When laying the drain pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns, sagging is also not allowed - condensate will accumulate in these areas

At the bottom of the indoor unit of the system is a tube with a plastic tip. A corrugated hose is put on it and tightened at the junction with a clamp.

For the outer part of the device, a similar procedure is performed, but many people ignore it. If a polymer pipe is used instead of a hose, an appropriate adapter is selected. With it, connect the output of the block and the tube.

To connect copper pipes, you need to initially lay them along the wall using a pipe bender. If such a tool is not available, then we suggest that you read the article, which describes in detail how to bend a pipe without special equipment. Read more - read.

The tubes must be given the necessary slope without kinks and a sharp crease. First of all, they are connected to the indoor unit. To do this, loosen the nuts on the respective ports.

When unwinding, a characteristic hissing sound of escaping nitrogen will be heard. It is pumped at the time of production to eliminate the oxidation of parts. After lowering it, it is necessary to remove the plugs and unscrew the nut completely. Next, the rolling procedure is performed.

During the flaring process, the pipe is held with the hole down to prevent metal chips from entering the system.

The edges of the pipes in a section of 5 cm are aligned. Then flaring is carried out to ensure the connection of the input and output of the blocks. This will create a closed circulation system. The correctness of the installation plays an important role in acquiring the properties of maximum tightness, in the process of moving freon.

The flared end of the pipe is connected to the required outlet and fixed with a nut. It is forbidden to use any additional devices here - sealants, gaskets, etc. The applied copper tubes provide the necessary sealing.

When connecting copper pipes, it is necessary to apply a force of 60 kg, only then the copper will solidly compress the fitting, and the contact will be tight

Similar actions are done with all four ports. After connecting, the last stage of the installation of the air conditioning system follows - the elimination of air and moisture, as well as possible argon residues that could accumulate during the installation process.

Stage #4 - evacuation of the system

During installation work, air enters the air conditioner tubes and if it is not removed, it will end up in the air conditioning system. The result is an increased load on the compressor, respectively, its rapid heating.

Also, water particles adversely affect all details. Freon contains a proportion of lubricating oil, its hygroscopic consistency becomes less effective when it comes into contact with water. As a result, the wear of components will accelerate.

Two methods can be used to remove air: a vacuum pump or a small amount of freon liquid that descends from a block located outside. In the manufacture of the outdoor unit, manufacturers with little surplus.

The “puff” method is repeated several times, while the second attempt is made with the top valve. If the length of the route is 2-3 m - the procedure is carried out 3 times, with a four-meter - 2 times

An alternative to an expensive vacuum pump is to release excess freon from the outdoor unit system. To do this, the plugs are unscrewed on its valves. It is necessary to work with a lower port of a larger diameter. Under its cover is a hexagon socket. Based on its parameters, the appropriate key is selected.

Using a suitable key, turn the valve 90 ° and after a second return it to its previous position. Thus, a small amount of freon enters the system and increased pressure is created. With a second finger pressure on the spool located on the same port, excess freon and gases are released from the system.

After complete removal of air, the spool outlet is screwed with a plug, and the valves open completely and freon enters the split system. To check the tightness of the joints, they are coated with soapy foam.

It is worth remembering that with independent, minor factors do not exist. And everything that was done incorrectly, for example, rolling pipes without stripping the rim, or an insufficiently fixed connection, ultimately leads to rapid wear of the components of the cooling system. Therefore, during the installation process, you need to be extremely careful in all details.

If you have the necessary experience or knowledge in the issue of installing split systems, please share it with our readers. Perhaps you know some subtleties that we did not mention in this material? Leave your comments, ask questions in the block below.