The final step in the repair of the bathroom is the installation and fastening of the toilet bowl. This is a responsible task, since the toilet bowl is not only an interior decoration, but also a functional device.
Often, even if repairs are done on their own, craftsmen are invited to perform this work, but if the builder has the desire and initial skills, installation and fastening of the toilet to the floor can be done on their own. Of course, it is necessary to approach the solution of the issue with full responsibility and prepare.
Varieties and features of the installation of toilet bowls
There are many models of toilet bowls, which differ in a number of ways. Different models have a different design, provide a different degree of comfort, differ in the installation method. When choosing a mounting method, it is important to consider the main characteristics of the device.
The first thing you should pay attention to when choosing a toilet is the layout. There are three popular toilet bowl schemes.
The separate type differs in that the tank is far from the bowl at a considerable distance. This guarantees a powerful pressure, but also a strong noise. Installation is quite complicated, since you need to separately mount the bowl and tank. The scheme is outdated and practically not used.
Note! The "compact" system is by far the most common. It is distinguished by simplicity and functionality. The tank is placed simply on the bowl, which ensures ease of use and ease of installation.
Monoblocks have similar characteristics. In this case, the tank and the toilet are one. Such a system is easy to install, you can use dowels, glue. Installation is extremely simple, just attach the toilet to the floor and bring water to the tank.
The list of materials from which toilet bowls are made is wide. When choosing a method of operation, it is worth considering this characteristic of the device. Most often you can find:
- faience;
- porcelain;
- reinforced acrylic;
- cast iron;
- steel.
Often you can see bowls made of exotic materials, stone or even glass. To install such products, you must follow the manufacturer's recommendations, but it is better not to take risks and call the master.
Bowls made of cast iron and steel are most suitable for installation in public places, but for the home they choose one of the first three varieties. Faience, porcelain and acrylic can be attached by almost any known method.
Fastening with dowels or anchor bolts
This method is only suitable for those models that have mounting holes in the base of the bowl. These are “ears” with holes into which the dowel is screwed, or holes in the wall, designed for hidden fastening with the help of corners.
Before starting work, you need to prepare the tool. It will take quite a bit:
- roulette;
- marker or pencil;
- electric drill and drill bits for concrete;
- core and hammer.
You also need fasteners for the toilet (as a rule, it is included in the delivery), a key or a screwdriver (depending on the shape of the dowel or bolt head).
Step 1: fitting and marking
As you might guess, you need to start by choosing a place. This is unlikely to be a problem, the toilet is not a room where you can roam a lot. It is better to try on a model, because a toilet bowl is brought into the room. It is worth once again measuring the distance to the drain and the indents from the walls, the device should look good, stand securely, not stagger, there should be enough space between the wall and the side.
Mark up immediately. The easiest way is to outline the contours of the base of the bowl with a marker, separately marking the attachment points.
Step 2: drilling
The most important thing is to drill the flooring. Tile requires special care. Before starting work, holes are marked with a core, this will prevent the drill from jumping off and ruining the repair. Drill tiles at low speed.
The hole should be a few millimeters deeper than the dowel used, and the plastic insert included in the delivery should fit snugly into it. The criteria for an anchor bolt are the same, it should fit easily enough into the hole, but not dangle.
Step 3: installation
Before putting the bowl in place, you need to remove the traces of drilling. Be sure to remove concrete chips, shards of tiles. Plastic dowel inserts are inserted into the prepared holes, if necessary, they are finished off with light hammer blows through a bar gasket. Put the toilet in place. You can screw it, but it is important not to forget the rubber or nylon washers, they will secure the material of the bowl.
In the same way, toilet bowls are installed that do not have a vertical, but a lateral mount. For their fixation, special corner fasteners are used, while the sequence of actions does not change.
Glue installation
The method of installing a toilet bowl using adhesives is not inferior to the previous one in popularity, which is not surprising, because it provides the proper result and has a number of advantages. The use of glue is:
- clean installation without noise and dust;
- ease of operation, even a beginner can handle it;
- the method allows you to fix the toilet from any material;
- absolute safety, the floor is guaranteed not to be damaged;
- reliability due to the use of modern materials.
The only significant drawback of this method is that it will be possible to use the toilet only after the glue has completely solidified, and this is up to a day or more.
This installation method requires virtually no tools, just stock up on a tape measure and a marking pencil and a small spatula to remove excess adhesive. Of course, you can not do without glue. The choice of a particular brand depends on the wishes of the owner, you can recommend a time-tested epoxy resin.
Step 1: fitting and marking
This stage is not much different from the one described above, the only thing is that you do not need to mark the holes, they simply will not be. It is enough to put the toilet in the chosen place, make sure that its location meets your own wishes, measure the distances to the walls with a tape measure and circle the outline of the base with a pencil or marker.
Step 2: surface preparation
One of the main conditions for the reliability of an adhesive bond is smooth and clean mating surfaces. You need to start from the base of the bowl. Using fine-grained sandpaper, level the surface.
Next, move on to the floor. The tile is degreased with ammonia, and then wiped dry with a napkin. In some cases, it is advisable to sand the floor covering with sandpaper, but this must be done with all possible care.
Step 3: gluing
An adhesive or sealant is applied to the edge of the base of the toilet bowl. It is important to apply just the right amount. If there is too little glue, it will not be possible to achieve proper reliability, otherwise the excess can ruin the look of a fresh repair.
The prepared toilet bowl is lifted and transferred to the installation site. Here it is better to work with an assistant, he will help you navigate and put the device exactly in the chosen place.
Immediately sprinkle the floor around the bowl with soapy water, this will facilitate the removal of excess adhesive and ensure the cleanliness of the room. With a narrow spatula, remove glue streaks, leave the toilet until the seam is completely solidified. During drying, it is advisable not only not to use the device, but also not to touch it.
Mounting on taffeta
This method is most suitable for installing a toilet in the bathroom of a wooden house. Its feature is a wooden lining (taffeta), on which the plumbing device is installed. The method is distinguished by the simplicity of work and the availability of the materials used.
Important! First, cut out the lining itself. For this, durable wood is used, the dimensions are easiest to note according to the sample. The finished plank is lightly cleaned with sandpaper, impregnated with drying oil.
The next step is to create anchors, clamps that will not allow the board to move. Sufficient reliability will provide nails hammered into the board at different angles, for greater reliability, you can use anchor bolts.
A recess is left in the screed at the installation site. Pour the solution into it. Immediately, without letting the concrete harden, install the taffeta with the nails down. Press in such a way that the board is flush with the floor. Allow the screed to dry.
After the solution has hardened, all that remains is to screw the toilet bowl using ordinary screws, under the heads of which it is imperative to put rubber or nylon gaskets. Everything, you can connect the drain to the sewer, supply water to the tank.
Installing a toilet in a screed
In the past, the most common way to attach a toilet to the floor was to install it with cement. The essence of the method is simple, when pouring the floor, a recess was left in which the base of the bowl was placed. The toilet was installed, leveled and filled with mortar.
As advantages of this method, one can note the simplicity of operation and the stability of the device, it does not need to be further strengthened, only the careful dismantling of such a toilet bowl is impossible, it can only be broken.
Fixing the toilet bowl to the floor is a responsible process that requires not so much knowledge and experience as accuracy and diligence. You do not have to be a major specialist to cope with the work, you just need to be patient and choose the method of fastening according to your strength. A little effort - and the toilet is in place, the device works, and the money on the installation is saved.
Implementation involves: 1. Choosing and buying a new toilet; 2. Dismantling the old toilet; 3. Surface preparation for fastening; 4. Installing a toilet; 5. Complete set and installation of the tank; 6. Crimping
All of these points are interconnected, they can be said not to be separated.
I will analyze each separately in detail. You should read it carefully and put it into practice, and what the result will be is entirely up to you and your conscientious attitude to the task.
So, first things first.
Choosing and buying a toilet
Toilets are separated:
By appointment
- children's (small dimensions, decorated with various colors, the use is common in preschool institutions)
– for people with disabilities (handrails, armrests are added, they have a wide bowl, are adjustable in height)
- universal (used by people regardless of gender and age).
By size
- height
- width
- length
By installation
- suspended
- floor
In turn, they are divided into wall and corner.
By issue
- oblique (at an angle)
- horizontal (to the wall)
- vertical (to the floor)
By design
- retro
- modern
— hi-tech
According to body material
– san faience
- San Porcelain
- metal
- a natural stone
By installing the tank
- hinged
- on the toilet
- hidden
Tanks, in turn, differ in flush modes: double, normal, economical.
As well as a water supply: from below, from the side, from behind.
And finally in color
Here, as they say, "the taste and color ..." The color scheme presented on the market today anticipates all expectations, if you wish, you can even find gray Burmaline.
I will not dwell on all the parameters, we will consider the most important ones, in my opinion, for this article, namely: the direction of the toilet bowl outlet, and the double tank drain mode.
Direction of outlet from the toilet
Look at how you have the sewer socket provided for the toilet, it can be in the floor, or from the wall, or come out at an angle. It is logical to purchase a model, the release of which is most aligned with the socket, thereby avoiding refraction and rationally saving the free area of the bathroom.
In the photo visually what I'm talking about: 
Agree that in this case, a toilet with an oblique outlet is more suitable, I would approach the wall by two hundred or three hundred millimeters, at least. Such situations I have met more than once, and not even two, I installed a “carriage and a small cart” for my activities. You will come to order, and there the toilet has already been bought, the socket of the sewer tee is often cast iron, so it is absolutely not possible to turn it into the position you need. The customer throws up his hands, they say - I did not even think. What to do in this case? Do not run to change him, in fact. Something has to be sacrificed, as in the photo - a usable area.
But then, once you read the article, do not make such a mistake.
Attention
In the store, when buying, unpack the box, and carefully inspect the toilet and tank for cracks and chips.
Inspect carefully the internal cavities, both the tank and the toilet bowl.
Inspect the outlet of the toilet bowl, both outside and inside.
Check with the seller if the kit includes: seat, floor (wall) mount. If the equipment is without a seat, select according to the shape.
If you have a delivery, then inspect the product with the courier.
In case of visual detection of marriage, refuse to buy, believe me it is very disappointing, after installing the device, state puddles gathering on the floor. Read all the work for a smark.
Here, buy a flexible eyeliner (hose) to connect to a water pipe. If you do not have a faucet that separately shuts off the water to the tank, then I strongly recommend that you purchase and install it.
toilet cistern
Basically, cisterns come with a toilet bowl, I think you yourself decide which option is most suitable for you - mounted, either mounted on a toilet bowl, or hidden.
I will only focus on the possibility of some of them functioning in two modes. This means that they have a bifurcated button, by pressing a certain one you can regulate the descent of water. I don’t see the point in explaining when what displacement is appropriate.
Some manufacturers provide the ability to independently set the displacement, varies
- 6 and 3 liters
- 9 and 4.5 liters
- 4.5 and 3 liters
- 4 and 2 liters
The economy of water consumption is evident.
Removing an old toilet
The toilet is an irreplaceable device, it is a burden to do without it for a long time, therefore it is advisable to start this work in the morning, in order to have time if it is necessary to purchase any part, the stores then work up to a maximum of nineteen hours.
First thing- make sure that the water supply is turned off, unscrew the eyeliner, drain all the water from the tank and remove it. On the toilets, the compact can not be removed, but as it is assembled, we will send it to the trash. We examine the integrity of the socket of the sewer tee, into which the toilet outlet is usually embedded with concrete, we make sure that there are no cracks, if they are present, then we dismantle with care.
We unscrew the toilet bowl to the floor, or cut it off with a grinder (which is more often) and try to loosen it. We can’t loosen it, we break the neck with the sharp end of the hammer in close proximity to the bell, the blows are not strong, but it’s not hell to be liberal.
We split it, removed the pot, we take out all this household. Sweep out the bathroom to avoid injury by fragments of faience.
Second step- chasing a cast-iron bell, that is, we remove the remains of the neck from it and everything with which it was sealed there. I use a hammer and a steel-handled screwdriver for this. Having put on goggles, we get rid of foreign materials without cunning manipulations. Remember, the more thoroughly the inner surface of the socket is cleaned, the less likely it is to leak in this place during the operation of a newly installed toilet bowl.
We are aiming for the following result:
But what if we are waiting for such a - "surprise" - an additional get up? And it is necessary to remove it, well, “blood from the nose”, but we are pursuing the goal - installing the toilet bowl professionally, and the size of the bathroom directly depends on this.
I will say right away, tune in to sweat and get nervous. But ... the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing.
Attention
In no case do we grab a hammer, everything is explained simply - cast iron is very fragile, and from blows it easily bursts in any other place, but not where we would like it. Violation of this rule is fraught with costly and time-consuming problems.
To help, we take a puncher with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 millimeters, and in the “hollow-drill” mode, we drill as many holes as possible around the entire circumference, directing it (the drill) into the groove between the tee socket and the pipe - the insert.
Sometimes, the location of this hemorrhoid does not allow to drill freely, in this case we cut off the grinder in close proximity to the socket, but remember: cutting off the possibility of loosening, so to speak, therefore, we resort to this as a last resort, but for now we drill and burn.
Burning is appropriate if the cavity was minted with a cable, or filled with sulfur, if it is filled with concrete or lead, the method does not work.
Before proceeding with burning, we ensure sufficient ventilation of the room and the absence of flammable agents and materials in the vicinity. The video will show you how it's done:
If it doesn't help, then there's only one way to get rid of this fucking stickman: cut it out. For this we use a grinder (angle grinder), or electric welding.
The technology is as follows: we cut off the stem at the very socket, visually find a thin place of the “remainder” and aim precisely at it. We put a small circle (already ground off during other work) on the grinder and make cuts from the inside. You make two cuts close to each other in the thinnest place, trying along the entire length of the “remainder”, that is, there, in depth. You can cut out a fragment of the type - a scarf, knock it out with a screwdriver and a hammer, and then by tapping with a hammer we tear off the remaining piece from our "habitat" place. If there are further difficulties with the removal, you can still make a cut from the inside in a place that is most convenient. That's all, the chasing behind.
Guys, if someone got into such difficulties, but there are no skills to use the grinder, then here is a link to the photo gallery, I found it on the Internet, everything is step by step:
Dismantling the cast-iron fan pipes turned out to be a problem
And we are waiting the next step.
Surface preparation for mounting
The toilet was installed on a solid surface - excellent, but we will consider the most common option for attaching old toilets - on taffeta.
Taffeta is a board fifty millimeters thick embedded in the floor, in the old days it was on it that the toilet bowl was attached with screws or nails. Our task is to remove it (provided that it has rotted, which is often), everything is used: a hammer, a screwdriver, a puncher, in general, you will deal with this issue. Remove the taffeta, clean the freed cavity. Involved tool to the side.
We knead the mortar from a mixture of sand and cement, the proportions depend on the brand of cement and the recommended ratio, for example M-400 - here is one part of cement to four parts of sand, my advice to you is to dilute one part of cement to three parts of sand, we are pursuing the goal - faster hardening .
We fill the cavity with the solution, leveling it with the floor surface, but we don’t have time to wait until it sets, it takes up to three days, and the pot is needed almost hourly.
Each apartment has a stove, whether it be electric or gas, we take a baking sheet out of the oven and put it on top of the cemented place.
Broom handy? We take out the trash. Remember - a mess in the workplace leads to injuries.
Let's move on to the next step.
Toilet installation
Our goal is to install the device as close as possible to the sewer, and with minimal use of intermediate parts, especially those forming bends (turns). This does not always work out, just below I will post pictures of fittings that you can “play with”. In the meantime, consider the connection directly. 
We will connect the pipe, which is in the picture. We smear the cuff of the pipe with technical petroleum jelly or simply with water, put it on the neck of the outlet, put a mark on the outlet, to what depth the pipe sat down and remove it.
We put the toilet bowl as close as possible to the socket of the tee, sit down on the side and, using imagination, draw the trajectory of the alignment of the toilet bowl outlet and the inlet sewer. Moving further or moving the device closer, we achieve the best comparability - actual at - the socket at an angle. Have you achieved? Throw the tank over and make sure it fits without hitting the wall. 
We take a tape measure and start resting deep into the socket of the sewer tee, and on the mark that was set from the fitting of the pipe on the neck and there will be the size we need. We set aside this size on the pipe and cut off the excess with a grinder, remove the chamfer at the place of the cut. Everything, the connecting part is ready.
Now we need a transition cuff marked 110 * 123, we coat it on the outside, and the cleaned sewer socket along the inner perimeter with plumbing sealant, tapping with a hammer, hammer the cuff into the socket.
There is also such a moment: before smearing, put the cuff in place and make sure that it fits, it happens that you need to cut a small fragment out of it, it won’t fit in full size. If there is a place to be, then the cuff cut will need to be placed at the highest point of the bell.
Further: we coat with sealant the cuff driven into the tee from the inside, we press the pipe, until it stops. Lubricate the neck of the toilet bowl and insert it into the pipe. All pots are in place.
I promised a snapshot of the parts used for misalignment, this is how they look:
If it is impossible to do without this, then legs in hand and in a specialized store selling plumbing. Corrugated pipes for the toilet are also on sale, they are reinforced and not reinforced, if any one suits you, please use it, but this is not an ideal connection option.
At the beginning of the article, I recommended purchasing a faucet, I hope you initially screwed it onto the outlet of the water pipe for the tank, if not, then now is the time, we will need a bucket of water. We throw it into the toilet and visually verify the tightness of the joints, if there is a “jamb”, then we eliminate it at this stage. We achieve tightness.
Let's move on to the next step.
Complete set and installation of the tank
There is an instruction with the new toilet, study and complete the tank in accordance with it, if the fittings on it are already screwed on, just make sure that they are tightened, tighten if necessary. Especially do not be zealous, all the same, you are dealing with plastic.
I will not dwell on the device, the topic of a separate article, and the components of various manufacturers differ slightly from each other. The principle of operation is the same: water inlet, with a float that stops its supply when the set displacement is reached, and a drain device (for some, it is dual-mode and adjustable, as mentioned earlier). In general, collect according to the instructions. I’ll just give you one point: there is a gasket at the junction of the tank with the toilet, and so it’s not always appropriate to coat it with sealant, but only when it’s impossible to do without it, whether it’s necessary or not, pressure testing will reveal. Initially, we do not smear. We throw on the tank and pull it to the toilet with the fastening bolts provided for this, tighten it alternately, with a uniform effort.
Here is a video in which the guy explains in detail the configuration of various tank fittings:
Crimping
Using an adjustable wrench, we connect the cold water supply to the tank with a flexible hose, pulling the hose fitting on the tank inlet device, hold it with your hand from the inside. It is important to prevent touching of the reinforcement elements, both among themselves and with the walls of the tank.
Open the faucet and monitor the filling. The video explains how the outlet overflow and the float are regulated, with the help of simple movements above - below, set the filling and draining modes that are convenient for you. We make sure that the float blocks the water until it reaches the overflow limit.
By pressing the shutter button, we drain the entire displacement to the maximum, carefully inspect the joints:
- flexible piping with inlet device
- inlet valve with reservoir body
- a toilet tank through a gasket
— bolts of fastening of a tank to a toilet bowl by means of cone laying
- outlet (neck) of the toilet bowl with a branch pipe (corrugation, eccentric)
- branch pipe (corrugations, eccentric) with a cuff
— cuffs with a socket of a sewer tee
- toilet and pan
With a conscientious attitude to the implementation of the above steps, the plumbing fixture simply must work flawlessly. If you have visually established the presence of leaks, gathering puddles, then it is natural to eliminate them.
Three examples of, so to speak, unforeseen, but possible leaks:
1. I, and many “gurus” of plumbing installation, advise you not to initially coat the rubber gasket located between the tank and the toilet with a sealant. This is inappropriate not at all out of fear of smearing everything or “hand-to-handling” - nonsense. The explanation is simple - when it is smeared, it slides, and when you try to tighten the fastening bolts, it moves out of its place.
So, if a leak is found from this place, you should remove the tank, wipe dry the surface of the gasket to the toilet bowl and the gasket itself. Spread one side of the gasket with silicone sealant with a layer of 2 - 3 mm and carefully, aligning the holes, put in place, lightly press down around the entire perimeter. Wait for the time required for the sealant to "set" - this is about half an hour - you can drink tea, then apply the same layer on top of the gasket and gently put the tank in its place, pull it. Ninety-five percent of achieving a positive result.
2. A thin trickle of water constantly flowing into the toilet:
Looking inside the tank, we make sure that the water edge does not reach the upper border of the overflow tube, if it is normal, then there may be several reasons for the leak:
- the cone gasket located under the clamping nut of the overflow tube is missing or jammed;
- the seat is not tightly attached to the tank body, or the surfaces of the places where the seat gasket fits are rough, smearing the gasket with sealant will get rid of the problem;
- a crack in the seat body;
- uneven fit of the "pear" to the plane of the saddle;
3. Puddle on a baking sheet
In all likelihood, in this case, there is a crack (microcrack) in the toilet body.
Well, let's not talk about sad things, they were pressured, everything is in order with us. It remains only the task of fixing our toilet to the floor.
This will have to be done after two to three days - the time required for the solution to harden. Before that, we naturally use the device with caution, because it is not stable.
We block the water, lower the tank, slightly raise the toilet bowl, pull out the baking sheet. We expose the toilet, if inadvertently displaced, we mark the places for drilling with a pencil or marker. We remove the toilet bowl to the side, drill holes with a puncher, drive in plastic dowels, put them in place and fasten them. We pull without applying much effort.
In case of an uneven fit to the floor, I recommend a gasket, which is a perfect piece of linoleum.
In order to avoid unsanitary conditions - the accumulation of small particles of debris, we coat the place where the toilet bowl fits the floor around the entire perimeter with silicone sealant.
That's all, our irreplaceable plumbing fixture is installed and ready for many years of use.
Tools used for installation:
So, theoretically, we have coped with the task. Having considered the whole process step by step, we have an idea of the tool we need. Prepare in advance:
- hammer and screwdriver with iron handle
- adjustable wrench (Swedish)
— open-end wrenches 10*12, 13*14
- roulette
- perforator with a drill 5-6 mm
- a grinder, who does not have the skills to use, we replace with a metal blade, if necessary, a drill with drills with a diameter of 5-6 mm.
- plumbing sealant, linen or fum tape
Perhaps the following articles will be useful for the successful completion of the described work:
Well, that's all, dear reader, is there a desire to install the toilet yourself? I told you how the installation is done professionally. Once again, weigh your options, think about whether it’s worth getting involved with, maybe it’s easier to pay a third of the cost of a pot to a plumber, and calmly drink beer yourself while watching TV ??
And then I look at the darkness of articles on the Internet, like - install it yourself, there are no difficulties, everything is elementary and simple ... Yes, it’s simple, but all this needs to be done, and not done anyhow.
I'll tell you this: everyone should do their own thing, and earn what they can, and not count other people's money.
There were any questions, or there is something to supplement the article, you are welcome in the comments column.
I recommend that guests subscribe to receive new blog articles, the form will open when scrolling the page to the very bottom, I assure you there will be more useful and interesting information.
And that's all for me today, success in installation, with respect
The process of fixing the toilet bowl to the floor is a responsible job that requires certain skills. This is due to the reliability of further operation of the product and the durability of its operation. However, if you carefully study the various approaches, stock up on patience and the right tools, and take the matter responsibly, you can fix the toilet completely on your own.
Work must comply with all building codes and regulations. This will allow plumbing equipment to serve for many years for the benefit of their owners.
There are several methods for installing a toilet bowl to the floor, which are used not only by home consumers, but also by professionals - representatives of elite construction companies. They differ in the list of tools used. The most popular following methods of attaching the toilet to the floor:
- with the help of dowels;
- using sealant or glue;
- on taffeta.
The toilet bowl must be fixed in full compliance with safety rules. This prevents situations that lead to damage to tools, materials and create a certain danger to human health. Materials and tools must be of high quality. It is better to purchase them in specialized online stores or outlets. This allows you to perform work efficiently, reliably and comfortably.
Each method has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. Mounting on dowels is the most popular method, due to its accessibility and primitiveness. Causes the need to drill holes in tiles. This should be done as carefully as possible, since any wrong movement will lead to its damage. Ideally, there should be no tiles on the floor at all. It is better to fix light products on dowels.
The popularity of fastening with building glue is inferior to dowels. Alternatively, silicone sealant or epoxy based mixtures can be used. Prepare them yourself, following the attached instructions. You need to purchase them in specialized construction stores. It is better to give preference to popular brands.
The method of fixing the toilet bowl to the floor with taffeta is outdated, but still used. Taffeta is a wooden substrate, the height of which is about 5 cm. It is installed on a specially prepared recess with a concrete solution. A large number of nails are dug into the underside (anchors will do). Thus, the wooden taffeta is securely fixed in the recess.
A toilet bowl is already installed on the taffeta and fastened with special screws. It is important to remember that wood is susceptible to the humidity found in a toilet or bathroom. For this reason, this part must be treated with a special solution.
Tools and materials for work
The set for fixing the toilet bowl depends on how this work is carried out. In the case of dowels, you must purchase the following list of products:
- yardstick;
- electric drill;
- drill for concrete (it is desirable to have an additional product as a spare);
- microfiber (rag or a set of napkins);
- ammonia alcohol.
Fasteners for the toilet with construction adhesive or silicone sealant are carried out using the following tools and materials:
- sealing silicone sealant or construction adhesive;
- angular ruler, tape measure;
- marking pencil or marker;
- glue gun;
- narrow spatula;
- a small rag;
- emery skin;
- ammonia.
If it was decided to install plumbing equipment on taffeta, then the equipment mounting kit should be as follows:
- taffeta wooden;
- a set of nails or anchors;
- cement mortar;
- screws (usually included);
- jackhammer.
Preparation before installation
First of all, before installing the toilet, you need to take care of purchasing tools. Like materials, they must be of high quality (preferably new). It is better to purchase them in trusted outlets. Tools must be manufactured to all standards of reliability.
Next, you need to study the design of the purchased product. It is necessary to pay attention to the features of the lower part, which is fixed to the floor. Based on this knowledge, you can make the right decision and choose the appropriate installation method. The toilet mount must be selected based on the following design features of this product. They include the following features:
- weight and dimensions of the product;
- release direction;
- material of manufacture;
- tank and bowl design.
The design of the toilet bowl is widespread, where the tank is fixed to the back of the product. The bowl is attached to the wall of the room. Fasteners are bolts included in the delivery. In general, the features of fastening to the floor are the same for all types of equipment.
It is important to take into account the material, weight of the product and the design of its lower part. Toilets are most often made from the following materials:
- faience - affordable, but fragile, useful life of about 15 years;
- porcelain;
- reinforced acrylic is strong, durable and light, but does not tolerate high temperatures;
- steel is the strongest material, suitable for use in public places.
Method 1: installation on dowels
To understand how to fix the toilet with dowels, you need to know the features of this method. It is better to add sealant and glue to the purchased tools. You will need them to close the resulting gaps. The attachment procedure is performed in 10 steps, described below.
- In step 1, it is necessary to carefully and accurately try on the design of the toilet bowl to the desired installation location. You should evaluate how convenient it will be to approach it, use it, reach out to the right places (toilet paper, flush designs, and so on). Next, you need to evaluate the convenience of connecting the equipment to the central water supply (connection points of the tank to the water supply)
The surface of the floor must be flat, the bowl of the product must be level and stable. For fidelity, it is better to try to shake the design. If the equipment began to stagger, then under the dowels you need to put a sheet of linoleum, cut along the contour of the bottom of the bowl. If this is not possible, it is necessary to treat the joint with sealant or construction adhesive.
To fix the toilet to the floor, the size of the bolts must be suitable to ensure maximum stability of the product. Typically, these items are included with the product.
- At stage 2, a tape measure is used to more accurately determine the installation location of plumbing equipment. Using a marking pencil or better a marker, make marks on the floor through the mounting holes located at the bottom of the toilet bowl. It is worth doing this only after reaching the maximum stability of the product on the floor surface.
- Stage 3 is characterized by removing the toilet bowl from the marked place. It is highly desirable to make the pre-marked points in place of the dowels more visible (it is better to put crosses).
- Stage 4 - preparation of an electric drill and a concrete drill. If the floor is tiled, holes must first be made in this material. The drill must be set to low speed, and all actions must be performed with extreme care and caution. Otherwise, the tile will crack or completely collapse.
- In step 5, the holes are already made at full speed with a concrete drill. It is better to work with a perforator.
- Stage 6 - cleaning the tiles from dust and debris at the installation site of plumbing equipment. They are formed during drilling and other preparatory activities. Next, using ammonia, the surface is thoroughly degreased.
- In step 7, you need to insert the dowels into the drilled holes.
- Stage 8 - checking the normal entry of the dowels included in the product delivery. They must fit exactly into the hole without any backlash and delays. If the quality is not satisfactory, it is better to replace these elements with others.
- Stage 9 - installation of the product on the marked surface and a thorough check of all parameters. All holes and marked lines must match.
- In step 10, you need to insert the bolts to secure the toilet through the holes in the support. It is necessary to carefully tighten them with directed actions, being careful. Having gone through all the stages, the work on installing the toilet bowl on the dowels is completed.
Method 2: glue mounting
Using construction adhesive to secure the toilet to the floor is the easiest installation method. To prepare an epoxy mixture used as an adhesive, it is necessary to spend from 12 to 15 hours.
The floor surface must be perfectly smooth. Ideally, this method is best used for tiles. It is better to make its surface a little rough to improve adhesion, clean it of dust and debris, and thoroughly degrease it.
The mixture can be purchased or prepared independently. If you already have something to glue the toilet to, you can save cooking time. Otherwise, the following elements are required:
- epoxy resin - 100 parts (ED-6);
- cement - 200 parts;
- solvent - 20 parts;
- hardener - 35 parts.
The order in which the parts are added to the prepared solution is very important. First you need to heat the resin to 50 degrees Celsius and add a solvent to it. After that, hardener and cement are added sequentially in the order presented. To ensure plasticity, the solution should be thoroughly stirred. This is how liquid nails are prepared.
The mixture remains in working condition for 1.5 hours. It is applied to the back of the base of the toilet bowl so that the application surface occupies approximately 20 cm square. The layer must be at least 4 mm thick.
Next, the plumbing equipment is installed in the selected place, combined with the central water supply point and carefully pressed down. For 12 hours, it is strongly recommended to leave the product completely alone, and only then connect it to the sewer socket.
Method 3: taffeta mount
Mounting the toilet on taffeta is ideal in the case of a wooden floor. Nails nailed to the back of the taffeta are best staggered. They should protrude about 1-2 cm above the front surface of the part. This provides a better grip on the equipment and long-term stability. Fixing the toilet bowl to the floor on taffeta is best entrusted to specialists, however, if you make an effort, you can do it yourself.
It is necessary to prepare a recess in the floor where the cement mortar will be poured. It is better to do this with the provided locksmith tools. If the floor is concrete, then it is better to use a jackhammer. But this must be done as carefully as possible. The recess should be even and have clear angles corresponding to the corners of the base of the toilet.
This form will prevent the occurrence of unwanted gaps between the product and the floor. After that, it is already necessary to pour the cement mortar. Taffeta is recessed into it down onto pre-prepared anchors. The result is taffeta flush with the floor.
The solution dries for 12 hours (sometimes longer). Next, the installation of the equipment begins. It is necessary to fix the product with special screws, under the heads of which washers-gaskets are necessarily installed. Such elements are made of rubber. They prevent the probable failure of the frame.
Taffeta under the toilet is easily replaced with a rubber backing. It is cut from a sheet piece of material, the thickness of which varies between 5-15 mm. A classic example is an old rubber mat that is usually placed in a hallway or stairwell. Remember that the substrate should be about 1-2 cm smaller than the toilet support stand.
Having understood the toilet installation technology, you can save on plumbing services and do the job as efficiently as possible. The toilet bowl can be mounted in the traditional way or in a more modern way - with installation. In the second case, the drain tank will be hidden in the wall, which will favorably affect the interior of the room.
You are provided with instructions on how to complete each of the listed installation options.
| H | h | h1 | L | l | l1 | B | b | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| With one-piece molded shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | Not less than 605 | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Without one-piece molded shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | 460 | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Baby | 335 | 285 | 130 | 405 | 280 | 380 | 290 | 210 |
Work set
- Perforator.
- Roulette.
- Wrench.
- Fan pipe.
- Flexible hose.
- FUM tape.
- Fasteners.
- Sealant.
In the case of installing a toilet bowl on the installation, the listed list will expand with the corresponding set. Everything you need is bought at any plumbing store.
Dismantling the old toilet
First step . Shut off the water supply and drain all the liquid.
Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.
Third step. We unscrew the fasteners of the tank. If they are rusty, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or open-end wrench. We press the bolt head with the selected tool and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. If it doesn’t work, pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.
Fourth step. Dismantling the toilet bowl.
Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet drain from the sewer.
In old buildings, plums are usually fixed with cement plaster. To destroy it, use a hammer and a chisel. We need to prick the cement and gently shake the toilet to the sides. The drain should turn and loosen. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.
If the toilet had an outlet to the floor, you need to clean off the wax ring Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.
Important! Sewer gases do not have the most pleasant smell. However, they are poisonous and highly flammable. Be sure to keep this in mind as you work.
Getting ready to install
The base for the installation of the toilet must be level. There are several options for the development of events, namely:
- if the floor is tiled and does not have level differences, we do not carry out any preliminary measures to level the base;
- if the floor is tiled and not even, install the toilet with chopsticks. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor, chopsticks are hammered into them according to the level, and after that the toilet bowl is attached to the chopsticks with screws;
- if a tile replacement is planned, we dismantle the old cladding and fill in a new screed, if the old one has level differences;
- if the toilet is installed in a new house or apartment without any finishing, we fill in the screed and lay the tiles.
We pay attention to pipes. Sewerage from debris and various deposits, we install a tap on the water supply (if it was absent before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.
How to install a conventional toilet
As a rule, when selling, the toilet bowl and the tank are disconnected. The internal fittings of the barrel are most often already assembled, which greatly simplifies the installation process.
First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.
Marks on the floor for fasteners Second step. We remove the toilet bowl and drill mounting holes in the marked places.
Third step. We drive the dowels into the mounting holes.
Fourth step. Installing the bowl. We insert fasteners through special sealing gaskets. Tighten fasteners. You should not pull too hard - you can damage either the fasteners or even the toilet itself. We pull until the sanitary ware is firmly attached to the surface. From above we close the fasteners with plugs.
Fifth step. We mount the cover and seat. The manual for their assembly usually comes with the toilet, so we will not dwell on this event separately.
Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how the toilet outlet is connected.
Video - Installing a Compact toilet with wall outlet
Prices for accessories for toilets and urinals
Accessories for toilet bowls and urinals
If the release is done into the wall, we work like this:
If the release to the floor is being arranged, we do the following:
Useful advice! If the toilet bowl is connected to the drain pipe using a corrugation, sealing can be abandoned in most cases, because. the design of such an adapter hose is itself able to provide a sufficiently tight fit.
Seventh step. We carry out the installation of the tank. Drain mechanisms, as a rule, are sold already assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, assemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (the assembly order for different models may vary slightly).
We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water hole in our toilet. Install the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.
Fasteners are most conveniently installed like this:
Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it digs somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. The level of filling the tank with water is adjustable by moving the float lower or higher.
We let the tank fill several times and drain the water. If everything is fine, we take the toilet into permanent operation.
Modern installation. A special wall installation is used, in which the mechanism of the tank is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and the drain button remain visible.
We mount a wall-mounted toilet for installation
Video - How to install a wall-mounted toilet on a Geberit Doufix installation
The first stage is the installation of the frame
We carry out the installation of a metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable with brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. Frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use in combination with any toilet.
The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width should exceed the width of the tank.
The second stage - we hang the tank
We perform the installation in compliance with the following recommendations:
- we place the drain button at about a meter distance from the floor;
- between the attachment points we maintain a step equal to the distance between the eyes of our toilet bowl;
- the drain pipe should be located at a height of about 220-230 mm;
- we hang the wall-mounted toilet at a distance of 400-430 mm from the floor. These are average values. In general, focus on the growth of future users;
- between the drain tank and the wall we maintain no more than 15 mm distance.
The third stage - we mount the finished installation
We first check the evenness of the wall with a plumb line. When deviations are found, do the following:
The fourth stage - install the tank
First we connect the tank. The drain may have top and side outlets. Almost all modern models of tanks allow you to choose between these two options.
Important! When installing the toilet on the installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank with a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. Would you like to destroy the frame skin in the near future for the sake of a five-minute replacement of such a hose? That's it!
For connection, it is best to use plastic pipes. All necessary fasteners usually come with the tank. Separately, you have to buy only a panel for the drain buttons, and even then not always.
We connect the release of our toilet bowl with the sewer. The most convenient way to do this is with a corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily turn off the toilet from the drain and remove the bowl to the side.
Important! The procedure for connecting the cistern to the toilet and plumbing may vary depending on the model of the product. We clarify these points in a separate order and follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Fifth stage - we sheathe the installation
To do this, we use moisture-resistant drywall with a thickness of 10 mm. It is recommended to fix it with a double layer. First we do the following:
- we screw the pins for hanging the toilet into the frame (they are included in the kit);
- close the drain holes with plugs (also from the kit) so that they are not clogged with dust and debris;
- we make holes in drywall for pins, pipes and a drain button.
We fasten the sheathing sheets to the frame with the help of special self-tapping screws. Keep the fastening step at the level of 30-40 cm. The design will have small dimensions and weight, so there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between the fasteners.
We tile drywall with tiles or finish it in another way at our discretion.
Useful advice! Before starting to tile the box with tiles, we install a plug and a cuff in the place of the future location of the drain button. They are usually included in the kit.
Video - Installing a hanging toilet
Stage six - install the toilet
To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on the pins (we installed them in the previous stages of work). You can follow these steps in reverse order, whichever is more convenient for you. Tighten the fixing nuts.
Important! Previously, the tile that will come into contact with must be covered with a layer of silicone sealant (you can install a gasket instead).
You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.
The assembly instructions for the installation remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.
First step. Lock your knee firmly. Metal fasteners will help you with this.
Second step. Treat the toilet outlet with technical ointment.
Third step. Install the toilet in the place intended for it. Circle the outline of the sanitary ware and mark the holes for the fasteners.
Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the mounting brackets from the kit according to the marking.
Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into the vent pipe and secure the sanitary ware with the bolts or other fasteners included in the kit.
Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. Installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of mounting a wall-mounted toilet model.
Seventh step. We bring the drain button into a pre-prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet bowl. If everything is fine, we accept the product for permanent operation.
Read our new article - and also find out what varieties there are, how to choose and install.
Video - Installing an attached toilet with a hidden cistern
Successful work!
Video - Do-it-yourself toilet installation
Finishing the walls, ceiling and floor of the bathroom is carried out after the dismantling of plumbing and other equipment. In this case, it becomes more convenient to work, and the likelihood of damaging or soiling the details of the situation is reduced. To install the toilet back on the tile, you can use the services of professional plumbers. If you like to do everything with your own hands, know that this is an easy job that does not take much time and resources. Of course, if you know the technology and features of the installation.
Ways to install a toilet bowl on a tiled floor with your own hands
To date, there are several ways to install a toilet bowl on a tile, depending on its type and design:
- installation on concrete solution;
- external fastening to the floor;
- indoor installation.
The use of the first method is often referred to as the "barbaric method" because in this case the toilet is installed on a bed of cement mortar. Of course, it will be problematic to remove it after the concrete has completely set, so this method should be used after weighing the pros and cons.
The dismantling of a toilet bowl installed on a cement mortar is possible only when plastic pipes are used in the sewer system. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to remove the plumbing without damage.
External fastening to the floor is carried out using a threaded connection. This method is considered the simplest and consists in installing plastic dowels in the base of the floor. After the toilet holes are aligned with the fasteners, the device is fixed with bolts or studs with nuts.
External fastening - one of the ways to install the toilet on a tiled floor
Interior installation is the most preferred for aesthetic reasons, since in this case the fixation is carried out using hidden brackets. After these elements are fixed on the floor, a toilet bowl is attached to them. Its installation takes place through holes in the side walls.
Necessary materials and tools
When buying a toilet bowl, you should pay attention to the scope of delivery. Depending on the design of the device and the method of installation, the mounting kit must include the appropriate mounting brackets, studs or bolts, plastic dowels, gaskets, washers and decorative caps.
If there are no fixing elements, then they should be purchased separately. It is also necessary to prepare the tools that will be needed during installation activities:
- puncher or impact drill with a set of drills for working on concrete and ceramic tiles;
- Adjustable wrench;
- center punch or marker;
- rubber spatula;
- pencil;
- screwdriver;
- a hammer;
- construction level.
In addition, you will need to purchase materials and fixtures that will be needed to install and connect the device to utilities:
- flexible hose for water supply to the drain tank;
- ball valve;
- FUM tape or tow and a special paste for sealing threaded connections;
- fan or corrugated pipe for connection to the sewer.
Preparatory work
Marking the place of attachment of the toilet can be applied with a marker
After all the necessary tools and materials are prepared, everything superfluous is taken out of the bathroom, making room for the toilet bowl.
The first thing to do is to put the fixture on the intended location and mark its contours. In addition, you will need to apply marks corresponding to the mounting holes. Next, the plumbing is pushed aside, and the drilling sites are treated with a center punch, causing microscopic chips on the surface of the tile.
Drilling ceramics should be done in two steps. First, a tile drill is used, and after making a hole in the tile, the tool is changed to one that is designed to work on concrete. The cavities prepared for fasteners are protected from moisture by filling them with silicone sealant.
When drilling ceramic tiles, do not forget to cool the drill bit, otherwise it will overheat and its cutting edge will burn.
On this, the preparation for installing a toilet bowl with an oblique or horizontal outlet is considered complete. If you plan to install a device with a vertical drain, then prepare the inlet of the sewer system in advance and clean it from dust and dirt.
External Installation Instructions
With an external mounting method, the toilet is attached to the floor with bolts. The work is done in this order:
- Mark the attachment points and drill the floor to the desired depth.
We mark the places of fastening
- The holes are filled with silicone and plastic dowels are installed.
Drill holes and fill them with silicone
- To prevent moisture from entering under the toilet, a sealant is applied along the previously outlined contour.
- Studs are screwed into the prepared cavities.
We install the studs on which we will mount the toilet
- The device is installed on the studs, combining the mounting holes with them.
- Tighten nuts or bolts.
We mount the fixture with studs and nuts or long bolts
- Excess silicone that has come out at the junction of the toilet bowl is removed with a rubber spatula.
- At the end of the installation, decorative plugs are installed and the device is connected to the water supply and sewerage systems.
Internal fastening instructions
Internal installation provides for the preparation of not only mounting holes, but also places of connection to the water supply and drain line. The installation process goes like this:
Mounting the toilet with glue (without drilling)
It is required to glue the toilet bowl when it is impossible to drill the tiles, for example, when there is a risk of damaging the contour of the warm floor. This method is the simplest, but also the most time-consuming, since it takes 12 to 24 hours for the adhesive to set.
To prepare a mixture that will provide sufficient bond strength, you will need epoxy, cement, plasticizer and hardener. The physical and chemical properties of the adhesive depend on the correct sequence of connecting the components, so it is better to prepare the composition in strict accordance with the following algorithm:
- take 100 parts of epoxy and heat it up to 50 ºС;
- constantly stirring the "epoxy", add 20 parts of a plasticizer or solvent;
- without ceasing to mix, add 35 parts of hardener into it, and when the mixture becomes completely homogeneous, pour 200 parts of cement into the container with glue.
A thoroughly mixed mass retains its fluidity for 1.5–2 hours. This time is enough to prepare the surfaces. Before proceeding with gluing, the top layer of ceramic tiles and the bottom of the toilet are cleaned with coarse sandpaper to roughen them. This processing allows you to get a reliable connection.
The composition is applied to the lower surface of the plumbing fixture so that the solution covers an area of at least 20 square centimeters. At the same time, it is important to ensure that the thickness of the adhesive mass is about 4–5 mm, since a smaller layer will not allow filling in the unevenness of the sanitary ware and the tile joint, which may be present at the installation site.
Combining the outlet of the toilet bowl with the socket of the sewer system, the device is pressed against the floor with force and left for a day to completely cure the epoxy composition. It is best to close the bathroom for this time to prevent accidental displacement of equipment.
Toilet connection
Connection to the sewerage system
Flexible corrugated pipe allows you to eliminate any displacement of the toilet relative to the inlet of the sewer system
A plastic corrugated pipe is used to connect a toilet bowl with an oblique or horizontal outlet to the sewerage system. The flexible element of the drain system allows you to change the angle of entry into the riser, as well as adjust the distance from the outlet to the inlet of the sewer system. The corrugation has internal and external flexible sealing membranes that provide a tight and airtight connection to the toilet outlet and drain riser. At the same time, it turns out to be of such high quality that any penetration of drain drains and unpleasant odors into the bathroom is excluded, so additional sealing with silicone is not required.
Connecting a toilet with a vertical drain is a little different, by combining its lower outlet with the inlet of the sewer system. At the same time, the sealing of the connection is ensured by a special rubber cuff, which is included in the delivery set of the device. The sealing element is attached to the floor at the entrance to the sewer pipe. After tightening the bolts, the coupling is deformed, preventing the penetration of moisture and odors.
When installing the tank on a toilet with a shelf, do not forget about the sealing gasket
The process of connecting the device to the sewer system is completed by installing a drain tank, after which they begin to connect the water supply system.
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