Internal insulation of the attic is one of the most difficult construction tasks. And all because the result is important here: how the roofing pie will behave in winter, whether there will be smudges, whether there will be a smell of dampness and whether it will be necessary to disassemble it all later. Why such difficulties? The fact is that no matter how carefully the budget for building a house is planned, it, as a rule, is still not enough for everything. Up to the fact that even the owners of the future family nest decide to buy a laminate cheaper - just to finish the repairs and just start living. And the most popular item of expenditure, which is immediately reduced as soon as the lack of funds becomes clear, is the insulation of the attic. “Later, in the future,” the owners promise themselves, especially since warming the attic from the inside is not a problem at all, and you can start it at any time, even in winter.
In fact, there are a lot of subtleties and nuances, and therefore, if you have already taken up this matter, carefully study this article. And everything will work out!
Why are there problems?
There are statistics: up to 30% of attics have to be redone after the first winter. Roofing, interior trim and films are removed, and the insulation is dried. A lot of materials have to be thrown away, and this is another unplanned cost. Even if you hired a professional team of builders, this is still not a guarantee of the well-being of the future attic, especially if the roofing pie is thought out without taking into account the local climate.
Why is this happening? So, in Russia, dampness, cold and round-the-clock negative temperatures are not uncommon. And the lower the ambient temperature, the greater the volume of steam that penetrates through the vapor barrier - all due to an increase in the partial pressure drop. And at the same time, the migration of moisture through the cold membrane slows down significantly, although it does not stop. Bottom line: the situation is even worse than under standard proven conditions. And therefore it is impossible to test the vapor permeability of a roofing pie in European conditions, and at the same time expect the same good result in the Siberian regions.
Here is a simple illustration to help you understand what we are talking about here:
Note that the maximum pressure of water vapor on the roofing pie is in the residential attic. And the point is not even that there is a person in such a room much more often than in an ordinary cold attic - it’s just that the pressure of warm air is additionally added to the vapor pressure. Moreover, these processes are so clear that they can be observed in the form of real leaks!
The fact is that wet insulation loses its properties very quickly. And the more humid the air that gets to it, the faster the thermal insulation decreases. For example, a basalt insulation with a moisture content of only 5% already loses its heat by 20% than a dry one.
For example, just one cubic meter of air space, if its relative humidity is 100%, at a temperature of 20C contains 17.3 grams of water - just in the form of steam. And the lower the temperature, the more difficult it is for air to hold water in a bound state. And when the temperature drops to 16C, there will already be only 13.6 grams of water vapor in the same air, and the rest will settle in the form of water in the heater. We conclude: moisture in the insulation appears due to the condensation of excess water vapor from the air in the process of lowering the temperature. And she needs to actively fight. And this is not the only problem - now we will deal with all.
Let's start warming - work technology
Let's start with the first problem - the insufficient thickness of the log if you insulate the attic after the construction of the whole house and the installation of the roofing. Why is that? Let's look at this issue in detail.
So, attic insulation can be divided into basic and additional. Basic - this is insulation, which is carried out even during the construction of the roof of the house and involves the use of light insulation directly into the truss structure. But additional insulation already turns a non-residential attic into a full-fledged attic.
With basic insulation, the main task is to minimize the heat loss of the house through the roof, and such basic insulation may well replace additional internal insulation, if only you correctly approach the choice of insulation, do not spare its thickness and think over the truss system well. This is often done by those builders of their own home who understand that even 20 rooms may not be enough in the future, and an additional room for a billiard room, a library or a sauna cannot interfere. And therefore, it is initially better to build it completely residential, and not to finish something later.
But, if during the construction of your house you decided to get by with elementary thermal insulation and now you have enthusiastically taken up the arrangement of a residential and cozy attic, then the only option for you is additional internal insulation with all its nuances, the main of which is the insufficient thickness of the rafters, which were not originally designed for dense internal insulation. But the problem is completely solvable, as proof of which we have prepared a detailed master class for you:
And now we move on to more insidious moments that are no less important: proper vapor barrier and waterproofing, which you may need to redo.
No - dampness and smudges!
It is extremely important for any insulation to create the right conditions, otherwise the material will quickly become damp and instead of a heat source it will become a source of dampness, mold and cold. What are these conditions? Let's find out more!
What is dew point?
The first and most important quality of any insulation is low thermal conductivity. Thanks to it, the insulating layer rigidly separates the warm air inside from the cold outside. It would seem that they inserted a heater into the rafters, fixed it - and everything else is needed? It wasn't there!
Firstly, from the outside, this whole thing must be carefully waterproofed from rain and damp air, because. such a roofing cake in this regard is a real sponge. Secondly, any insulation also has a second quality - vapor permeability, i.e. "breathes". And now let's remember the physics: warm, moist air inside a room under a roof (always humid!) Without finding an obstacle, it easily passes inside the insulation and collides with its colder part, the one closer to the roofing pie. And there this air condenses, settling in the form of droplets, which is called the dew point. And then what's the point of external waterproofing? Mineral wool heaters are especially susceptible to this phenomenon, we note.
Therefore, our first task is to ensure that as little steam as possible passes through the insulation, because even super-diffuse membranes in cold weather do not cope well with the removal of water vapor, due to a significant slowdown in moisture transfer processes. And this is already a question of the correct vapor barrier of the attic insulation.
Here is a clear example of the unpleasant consequences of ignoring the concept of dew point:
Vapor barrier: warm European winters and Russian frosts
In fact, in Western Europe, where winter has always been mild, there is no need for a vapor barrier with special properties - simple packaging films are quite similar. So they just sometimes end up in Russia, although their vapor barrier properties are not high. These are roll films of LDPE, which stands for "low density polyethylene". In such films, non-uniformity in thickness and microdefects are noticeable. Their main purpose is product packaging.
Slightly better are reinforced materials, which are made by hot pressing a film to a mesh of twisted thread. In production, such films are injured by mesh nodes, and as a result, low vapor barrier properties are further reduced. Although the film itself is much stronger than usual, of course.
More reliable can be called bag fabrics made of polypropylene yarns and spunbonds. The former are additionally laminated with molten HDPE, but a uniform and continuous film is still not obtained, however, the strength pleases. And the latter are made from non-woven polypropylene fiber, but its vapor permeability is still in the range of 15-25 g / m2 per day, and this is a very low figure.
And aluminum foil boasts the best vapor barrier properties, which is suitable even for arranging steam rooms, in which the pressure and volume of water vapor are the highest. The only point: such a vapor barrier additionally creates the effect of a thermos in the attic, simultaneously reflecting invisible heat rays back into the room. And therefore it is better not to insulate a small attic room like that, but for a spacious one - that's it.
Therefore, if you want to save heat as much as possible, or in the attic you plan to make a good sauna, then you need such a vapor barrier:
Or immediately purchase a heater with an aluminum side:
Close access to water vapor
But remember that a good vapor barrier film is still important to properly lay and waterproof, otherwise water vapor will still find its way.
The joints of the vapor barrier sheets are usually sealed with a special butyl rubber adhesive tape, but even in this case it is impossible to guarantee complete tightness. The thing is that over time, the adhesion of the sticky layer decreases, and with an additional load, the canvases become unstuck. That is why, when installing an exterior finish, when you can attach the same drywall directly to the vapor barrier, many put an additional crate. Its task is not so much to ensure that the finish is fixed more evenly (which is also important), but to press the tape or sealant with slats.
In addition, this crate (usually with slats up to 3 cm thick) additionally allows you to lay electrical wires directly under the sheathing, and not through the insulation, as many do and which can hardly be called a technically competent solution.
But the places where the vapor barrier adjoins passing pipes and brick walls must be insulated with special sealants or tapes.
Another important point: never stretch the vapor barrier - fasten with a small margin. The fact is that all wooden structures, which is what the truss system is, naturally dry out and become a little smaller. The frame itself becomes mobile, and under the roof outside and under the sheathing inside, there is a risk of ruptures. And then - a surprise!
Does external waterproofing "breathe"?
So, on the warm inner side of the insulation we put a vapor barrier, which does not allow moist air to flow from the room. And on the outer, colder side, we are already fixing waterproofing, which will protect the insulation under the roofing pie from external accidental leaks of melt water or rain.
And the further development of events already depends on how “breathable” the upper waterproofing film will be. So, if you purchased the most common roll of inexpensive waterproofing - things are bad, moisture from the roofing cake will evaporate for a long time and hard, as a result - dampness and gradual destruction of the insulation. But modern vapor-permeable membranes are called “smart” for a reason: they do not let moisture in, but take water vapor out. It's all about their unusual, well-thought-out structure. Why does it turn out that when using cheap barrier films, even expensive insulation does not last long, and repairs are not far off.
Please note that the diffuse membrane should fit as tightly as possible to the insulation, without any gap, like with a conventional film. Otherwise, the membrane material will cool more strongly, and the temperature will become lower than the steam migrating through the insulation. You will see the result in the form of ice right on the membrane, which will make it lose its vapor-permeable properties even more.
When should the roof be removed?
Quite often, during the construction process, roofing material or reinforced films are installed as roof waterproofing. And after a couple of years, when the attic turned out to be very necessary and all the households enthusiastically began to repair it, it turns out that nothing will work without a complete analysis of the roof.
What's the matter? The fact is that such waterproofing does not “breathe” at all, and any insulation under it will completely bend. That is why, if the roof of your house is still under construction, but you are thinking about how to postpone attic insulation for the future, immediately use a good super-diffuse membrane as waterproofing.
But how can something get into the insulation if we have already installed a vapor barrier? The fact is that not a single film in the world is capable of 100% retaining water vapor - they are very small. And no matter how hard manufacturers try, there is no absolute barrier. And even more: modern vapor barrier films, in fact, do not even half do their job, and only the highest quality ones are able to retain steam by 75-80%. Everything else, unfortunately, gets inside the roofing pie.
let's sum it up ogi. You should end up with a roofing pie with two films that have absolutely opposite properties: the inner one does not let steam into the insulation, and the second saves it from a small amount that accidentally got there.
Thermal insulation of complex structural elements
If you have decided on a heater and insulating materials - congratulations! Prepare everything carefully, calculate everything you need and boldly proceed. Most importantly, do installation work only in a well-ventilated area. And, finally, when working with modern heaters, many manufacturers advise using a vacuum cleaner before insulating the attic roof from the inside, and at the end.
It is not difficult to insulate pitched and straight attic walls, and the first difficulty you will encounter is windows and other complex structural elements. It is also important to properly insulate them, leaving no chance for moisture or water vapor to seep through. Do you know what are usually the most problematic places in attic rooms that “please” with mold and smudges? Therefore, take this question seriously:
Here is another tricky moment when the attic floor is not made of logs, but with a solid slab. You need to warm it up like this:
And, finally, after insulating the attic, make sure that snow does not accumulate later in the drains and on the ridge - the entrance and exit of the movement of under-roof air. For this, it is more rational to install ventilation pipes along the entire roof ridge, and make the ridge itself non-ventilated. That's all the difficulty!
Such a desire is natural, this is a great opportunity to increase the area and living space of your home. In addition, this gives the building a special charm, brings a certain amount of romanticism to its appearance.
Attics are located almost under the roof. What are the usual requirements for them? It is important that it is cool enough in summer and dry and warm in winter. In order for the room to meet the indicated requirements, it is important to know what processes take place in it, to understand the essence of competent insulation.
It is not difficult to do all the necessary work with your own hands, their technology is quite simple. The main thing for this is a conscientious partner and the availability of the necessary tools. If everything is done technologically correctly, they will not get wet or rot, but will serve for a long time and reliably.
Housing under the roof is a special place. Its walls are close to the surface, while the gaps are only 10-15 cm in size. A characteristic feature of the room is connected with this - it instantly cools in winter, and literally heats up in front of our eyes in summer. Such valuable heat for housing escapes through the roof in winter, while in summer it, on the contrary, heats up a lot, significantly raising the temperature of the room.
The ongoing processes depend on the quality as well as the thermal conductivity of the materials used for manufacturing.
In winter, the heat rising from the radiators spreads under the roof arch, and then disappears due to the heat transfer of roofing materials. The snow lying on the roof begins to melt and, turning into ice, destroys its coating.
In summer, it heats up, heating the entire structure, which makes the air in the room also very hot. If the building has a familiar cold attic, then everything happens differently.
The function of a heat insulator in such housing is performed by the air in the attic, and the snow on its roof in winter.
Backfill materials on, together with air, delay the heat coming from below, from housing.
Thanks to this, even in very frosty winters, t in the attic is kept at about 0 degrees. The snow does not melt outside, being another, additional insulator. In summer, t is regulated by vents on the gables, which play the role of a kind of system. How to insulate an attic?
The room must be properly insulated: carefully selected material, the required parameters, and in full compliance with the technology.
Attic insulation: materials
The choice of the optimally suitable material is a very responsible task. After all, a lot depends on its type - the thickness of the insulation “pie” itself, the number of minimum layers in it.
It has special requirements:
- Low thermal conductivity. A material with a coefficient of no higher than 0.05 W / m * K is best suited.
- Ease. The weight of the material matters, it should not overload the roof.
- Low moisture permeability. If suddenly the roof leaks, it should not get wet and lose its qualities. Or it should be well insulated to avoid getting wet.
- . It is extremely important that the material is non-combustible and does not support combustion.
- Elasticity, keeping the shape. Due to their location, lightweight mineral-based materials can sort of slide off, leaving voids. That's why it's so important that it can keep its shape.
- Resistant to sudden temperature changes.
- Strength and durability.
Of course, all these points are ideal, but this does not happen often.
In each case, the required thickness is calculated strictly individually. If you select this indicator approximately, then most likely 25 cm will be enough.
glass wool
This is perhaps the most successful solution for roof insulation from the inside. This is a plastic material that fits compactly between the rafters, covering all the free space. does not support combustion and does not burn itself. It is extremely lightweight and has excellent insulating properties.
Basalt wool in slabs remarkably retains its shape. Its disadvantage is that it easily absorbs steam and water, and therefore needs additional water. This is very important: if mineral wool gets wet, it will irretrievably lose more than half of its useful qualities. If this happens, you will have to change it.
Despite this disadvantage, it is one of the most suitable materials for roof insulation from the inside. It is easy to work with her, she has an affordable price. Strict adherence to technological instructions when working with it eliminates possible shortcomings.
Styrofoam
This is a very popular and sought-after material. But the use of attic insulation should be considered in more detail.
The material has certain characteristics that can be considered virtually unique.
These are its extremely low thermal conductivity, minimal weight, low moisture permeability, ideally rigid shape.
But along with these wonderful positive qualities, it also has obvious disadvantages. Different grades of material have different degrees of fire resistance. And for insulation, its combustible varieties are often used. And this is extremely dangerous. When ignited, the fire rises, and if the insulation catches fire, it will be almost impossible to survive in such a flaming attic.
It is not very convenient for work, because when cutting, cutting and installing it crumbles quite a lot. When using it, there are gaps between the rafters, and they have to be repaired somehow. From time to time it collapses, and begins to crumble even more. Based on all of the above, we can conclude that using foam in this case is not very reasonable.
Expanded polystyrene extruded
This is a wonderful material for insulating the attic from the outside, for laying under the roof, on the rafters. It is quite durable, perfectly retains its shape, it is not afraid of high humidity and, very importantly, it does not burn. Special attention deserves the fact that for warming a not very thick layer is required - 5-10 cm.
polyurethane foam
This is a new generation material. With the help of a special installation, it is blown into the voids of the insulated material, leaving no gaps or holes. This coating prevents the formation of cold bridges.
This material is not afraid of fire and water, it is light, durable, holds its shape well. But he also has a minus - he has an extremely low rate of vapor permeability: he almost does not breathe. Consequently, without the arrangement of forced ventilation, there will always be high humidity in the attic.
Ecowool
Perhaps this is one of the most suitable materials for insulation from the inside, and its use is actually ideal.
He, like the previous one, penetrates into the smallest holes, filling all the gaps.
It is also extremely lightweight, moisture resistant, completely flame retardant and breathable.
In addition, its fundamental difference from other materials is that it is completely harmless to health and absolutely environmentally friendly. Neither the smallest particles, nor even the evaporation of ecowool can cause, unlike the same mineral wool.
Attic roof: how to insulate from the inside
When choosing how best to insulate the attic roof, one should pay attention not only to the performance characteristics of the insulating material, but also to the specific features of its application. It is most convenient to carry out the insulation of the room from the inside: if there are no contraindications to it, and space allows.
Various types of heaters are used for this - both mineral wool and extruded polystyrene foam, ecowool or polyurethane foam is blown in. The key to the reliability and durability of materials is the observance of a competent combination, or "pie" of roof insulation. This will also ensure the comfort of living under it, that is, in the attic room.
Warming cake - from the inside out
When using wadded materials for insulation, a vapor barrier film is required. With its help, mineral wool will not be exposed to moisture coming from the living room with steam.
If glass wool is replaced with polyurethane foam or ecowool, there is no need for a vapor barrier.
Regardless of the chosen insulation, it will be required in any case. Its purpose is to protect the wooden parts of the roof structure. The role of waterproofing is played by special super-diffuse membranes, which are distinguished by special qualities.
They can release steam to the outside, but at the same time not let moisture in. A gap must be left between the roof and the waterproofing membrane for. Its size can vary from 4 cm to 10, depending on the material and type of roof. Through it, excess steam will be removed from the insulation.
Attic: roof insulation from the outside
It is more convenient to do this while construction is still underway. If it is already completed, you will have to remove the roofing material. The external method of roof insulation keeps all the available living space safe and sound. The solutions of some designers also involve playing with roof rafters as decorative elements of the interior).
He is not afraid of moisture, and he does not need vapor barrier. "Pie" for external insulation with polystyrene foam looks like this:
- Extruded polystyrene foam boards;
- Waterproofing membrane;
- Ventilation gap with crate;
- Roof material.
An obvious plus of such insulation- free access to the rafters, at any time, facilitating their inspection and even repair. The method of insulation with Penoplex on top of the rafters is different in that it allows you to equip the heat-insulating protective layer completely, preventing the creation of cold bridges.
It is customary to insulate the front part of the attic along with the facade of the building, that is, from the outside. How to choose the right material for this? It depends on what was used in the construction of the house and, of course, the preferences and desires of the owner.
If a special hinged system is used for insulation, glass wool with waterproofing and vapor barrier films can be taken as insulation. And under the planned wet facade, you can successfully put a regular one. The main thing for success is strict adherence to technology.
Attic - a favorite home of poets, artists, creative and creative people. Thanks to new building materials, the attic floor can be used as a room under the roof as a living or utility room (zone) not only in summer, but also in winter (for winter living). Abroad, well-designed and decorated attics do belong to the category of bohemian housing.
In modern housing construction, an attic is not just an equipped warm attic, it is an effective way to increase the functional space of a residential building. It is noteworthy that, in accordance with urban planning standards, the attic is taken into account when determining the number of storeys of a building.
Benefits of an insulated attic:
- saving on the cost of materials in the construction of a residential building;
- arrangement of a functional additional area;
- original appearance of a private house with an attic;
- reduction of heat loss through the under-roof space.
Among the disadvantages: sloping ceilings, the need for additional insulation, difficulties with the rational organization of living space.
Most of the minuses of the attic are completely removable and with the right approach become advantages.
Preparing to insulate the attic
A specific feature of the attic is the presence of a sloping ceiling. Moreover, according to the standards of SNiP 2.08.01-89 "Residential buildings", the height of the attic floor cannot be lower than 2.5 m. It is allowed to reduce the height in an area not exceeding 50% of the total area of \u200b\u200bthe premises.
Other features of the attic include:
- the dependence of heat loss on the material from which the house is built: wood, cellular concrete, brick, or a combination thereof;
- dependence of attic engineering systems on those existing in the house. This leaves imprints on technical solutions for the device of communications;
- variety of architectural forms: broken, one, gable roof;
- variety of design solutions. The material for the manufacture of load-bearing elements of the attic can be wood, metal, reinforced concrete;
- location specifics. The attic can be located within the area of the building or go beyond its boundaries, supported by columns or a cantilevered extension of the interfloor ceiling.
Thus, when deciding how to insulate the attic for winter living, one must proceed from the design features.
Note that it is correct to carry out work on the insulation of a residential building or apartment outside the premises, because. this approach ensures that the freezing point is shifted towards the insulation mounted on the outside of the wall.
However, attic insulation from the inside is a ubiquitous option, because. all surfaces that are subject to insulation are inside the attic (room) floor - ceiling, floor and walls. The exception is the pediment, which can be insulated as part of the attic thermal insulation or at the same time as the insulation of the whole house.
Factors affecting the thermal insulation of the attic
Professionals identify two key factors that have a significant impact on the level of heat loss and the performance of the attic after the insulation work has been completed.
- First, it is a heat-insulating material. Taking into account the fact that the attic floor is the coldest room in the house, and it is supposed to do the attic insulation with your own hands, you need to carefully consider the choice of insulation.
- Secondly, it is a waterproofing film. It is she who is designed to protect the insulation from moisture entering the attic from the outside (outside), through the roofing material, and from the inside, through the floor.
What insulation for the attic is better to choose?
To insulate the attic of a house, you can use any heat-insulating material that has proven itself in practice.
Among the most popular materials: cotton wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and their varieties. It should be remembered that the attic insulation is selected taking into account the factors inherent in a particular house and taking into account the skill level of the one who will install the thermal insulation material.
The characteristics that determine the suitability of the insulation for use in a particular case are given in the table.
| insulation | Rigidity (compressive strength) | Thermal conductivity | Hygroscopicity | Shrinkage | The weight | Installation on a sloping roof | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mineral wool (basalt insulation) | - | - | + | + | - | + | 100-140 rub/sq.m. |
| Glass wool (synthetic insulation) | - | - | + | + | - | + | 70-80 rub/sq.m. |
| Penofol (foil insulation) | - | - | - | - | - | + | 40-50 rub/sq.m. |
| Ecowool (cellulose insulation) | - | - | + | - | - | + | 23-35 rub/kg |
| Polyurethane foam (PPU foam) | + | - | - | - | - | + | 170-212 rub/kg |
| Styrofoam | + | - | - | - | - | - | 2560-3200 rub/m3 |
| Expanded polystyrene (foam) | + | - | - | - | - | - | 3500-5000 rub/m3 |
The material was prepared for the site www.site
How to insulate the attic from the inside
Features of the use of heaters of different types and types.
Soft thermal insulation materials:
- attic insulation with mineral wool requires a competent choice and application of films. Thus, it is possible to eliminate the main disadvantage of cotton wool - its hygroscopicity. The second, less significant minus - slight rigidity, is eliminated by reliable fixation of cotton wool, as well as the use of its denser varieties. Thus, sagging of cotton wool is excluded. Nevertheless, due to the environmental friendliness of the components, attic insulation with mineral wool from the inside continues to hold a leading position;
- attic insulation with glass wool is rarely performed due to the fact that glass wool is an unsafe material from the point of view of environmental friendliness. Plus, it creates difficulties in installation;
- insulation of the attic with penofol. It is used if it is necessary to insulate without significant losses in the height of the room. In order for penofol to perform its functions, the material must be oriented with a foil layer inside the room.
Rigid thermal insulation materials:
- insulation of the attic with foam. An excellent and easy-to-install option, which has such a drawback as the incomplete fit of the sheets to the crate. In view of this, a space unfilled with a heater appears and the efficiency of insulation decreases. In addition, polystyrene is combustible and releases toxic substances when burned. And in conclusion, rigid heaters do not pass steam well. The popularity of foam is due to its low price;
- insulation of the attic with expanded polystyrene (foam) is similar to insulation with foam. The difference lies in the presence of a tongue-and-groove fastening system, which, in fairness, does not play an important role in attic insulation. And also in the greater density of the material itself.
Note that breathable soft insulation will be a good option, if necessary, insulate a wooden attic.
Sprayed thermal insulation materials:
- attic insulation with ecowool. The material is 80% cellulose and 20% wood. It contains a natural antiseptic. This is a completely eco-friendly material;
- attic insulation with polyurethane foam (PPU).
The widespread distribution of sprayed heaters is hindered by their high price, as well as the need to attract specialists and use special equipment. At the same time, as evidenced by consumer reviews, the price is justified by a high level of thermal insulation. After all, the sprayed material fills the smallest gaps and eliminates sources of heat loss.
The thickness of the attic insulation depends on: the type of roofing material, the height of the room, the presence of a heating system, the location of the insulation and its type.
Recommendation. If a chimney passes through the mansard roof, basalt wool should be used. It begins to melt at a temperature of 1000 ° C, and does not smolder like ecowool and does not melt like rigid insulation (polystyrene, foam plastic).
Waterproofing and vapor barrier under insulation
Since wool is the leader among materials for attic insulation, and at the same time it is hygroscopic, it becomes necessary to take care of the wool itself, protecting it with a film of hydro and vapor barrier. Otherwise, the wool will get wet and lose its thermal insulation properties.
For insulation insulation are used:
- isospan (20-25 rubles / sq.m.). The vapor barrier film (membrane) has a double layer and surface roughness, due to which condensate is retained;
- polyethylene film (3 rubles / sq.m.). The most affordable waterproofing material in terms of price. But this film does not have the ability to pass steam;
- waterproofing membrane (30-45 rubles / sq.m.). Many manufacturers offer membranes for roofing, which are distinguished by the ability to simultaneously retain moisture and pass steam.
- penofol (40-50 rubles / sq.m.). Foil insulation.
Do-it-yourself attic insulation technology from the inside
Integrated thermal insulation provides for the following types of work:
- insulation of the attic roof;
- insulation of the attic ceiling;
- insulation of the attic floor;
- insulation of attic walls.
Each of the stages has its own characteristics, which we will dwell on in detail. Insulation of the attic from the inside is performed if the roof is already covered.
Attic roof insulation
It does not matter what roofing material the truss system is covered with. The main thing is that it effectively copes with the task of preventing water from entering the attic space. From the point of view of insulation, the type of roofing material does not matter - their thermal insulation properties are close to zero. This means that the most significant heat loss occurs through the roof. Therefore, from the roof of the attic floor, work begins on the insulation of the room.
How to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside - step by step instructions
- installation of a waterproofing film or membrane. This is a film that prevents water from entering the insulation, but does not prevent moisture from escaping from it. Thanks to what the heater does not get wet. The film is mounted from the ridge to the eaves in such a way that water, if it gets through the roofing material or condenses on it, flows down the film to the outside. Before installing the film, it is important to treat the wooden parts of the truss system with a deep penetration primer;
- air gap. It is obtained by arranging the crate. Allows the material to "breathe";
- heater installation. Mineral wool (or hard insulation) is placed between the rafters of the mansard roof. If the pitch of the rafters is more than 600 mm. it is necessary to make an additional crate even before the stage of laying the waterproofing film.
Cotton wool is placed between adjacent bars or a metal profile end-to-end, so that there are no gaps. If any appear, you need to cut a piece of cotton wool and close the gap.
Masters recommend using mineral wool mats, and not roll material, because. they are more dense. It is also recommended to lay the cotton wool in two layers with an offset. In order for the cotton wool to sit tightly in the intended place, it can be strengthened with a rope or nails;
Advice. If the attic ceiling is insulated with a slope length of more than three meters, it is necessary to make wooden jumpers between the vertical bars of the crate. Because cotton wool can "slide".
- installation of a vapor barrier film. The task of this film is not to let steam into the insulation. The optimal level of humidity is achieved by airing the room;
Note. To isolate the rafters, some craftsmen install a thin insulation between the vapor barrier film and the finishing material.
When laying the layers in a given order, it is important to ensure a reliable connection of the films and insulation to the ridge, valley, walls, window openings, etc.
- finishing material. Most often, sheets of drywall, MDF or wood (board, lining) are used to finish the attic. The cladding material is attached to the truss system or profile frame.
Unlike the thermal insulation of ordinary walls, it is much more difficult to insulate the attic, since its enclosing structures are partly or entirely roof slopes. It turns out that the same inclined structure should perform several functions - to protect from precipitation, wind and cold. Therefore, it is worth understanding thoroughly how to properly insulate the attic floor of a private house, so that every homeowner can do it with his own hands. The technology of thermal insulation works is described in this material.
The better to insulate the attic
Since we are talking about the insulation of the mansard roof over living quarters, the choice of material will also affect the way the work is done. In addition, various types of glass wool are immediately excluded from the list of possible heaters; it is prohibited for use from inside residential buildings. The rest of the list looks like this:
- mineral or ecowool in rolls and slabs;
- Styrofoam;
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- polyurethane foam (PPU).
In fact, there is only one technology for insulating a sloping mansard roof and it consists in laying insulation between the rafters. Another thing is how the overall pie will look when using this or that material, there are differences. The most difficult thing is to properly insulate the attic from the inside with mineral wool, because it has the unpleasant property of absorbing moisture. But because of its absolute incombustibility, mineral wool continues to be popular.
Ecowool or basalt fiber in slabs is convenient for installation, while rolled materials need to be cut into separate mats in order to insert them obliquely between the rafters. But there is another point: of all the listed heaters, mineral wool has the worst thermal insulation properties, which automatically increases the thickness of its layer. But this parameter is limited by the width of the rafter board (it happens from 100 to 250 mm). Then the output looks like this:
For reference. The discussion of materials for insulating the walls of the attic applies equally to both wooden and brick houses with a pitched roof.
While mineral wool needs to be protected from moisture during insulation, foamed polymers like polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam are practically impervious to water vapor. If the foam still somehow absorbs moisture in small proportions, then the other listed polymers are airtight in this respect. This greatly simplifies the process of insulating the attic floor, which is useful for people who want to do it themselves. In addition, polystyrene and foam plastic retain their thermal insulation characteristics longer.
Of course, polyurethane foam is considered the best insulation, which is applied by spraying. It is absolutely not afraid of moisture, can withstand fire for some time and has the highest thermal resistance. One thing is bad: the application technology, although simple, is carried out using special machines, so it will not be possible to insulate the attic with PPU on your own. You will have to pay a lot of money to a specialized company. But about this material there are only positive reviews.
For reference. Polystyrene foamed in various ways is a poor sound insulator, this must be taken into account when using it. At the same time, mineral wool perfectly absorbs sounds and is more preferable in urban conditions.
Each of the materials has many supporters and opponents who compose a lot of fables, so it is not easy for an ignorant person to choose the best insulation for the roof of a residential attic. Therefore, it is worth first studying how to properly perform the insulation process, then a lot will become clear. More information can be obtained by watching the video:
How to calculate the thickness of the insulation
The roofing material of the attic does not protect from the cold and has almost zero thermal resistance. In addition, all the heat from the house is collected under the ceiling of the attic floor, so the regulatory requirements for its insulation are as stringent as for the roof itself. For example, for the Moscow region of Russia, the thermal insulation of the roof must have a heat transfer resistance of at least 5 m2 °C / W.
For reference. The standard values of thermal resistance are for reference, they are easy to find in the relevant documentation or on the Internet in relation to the region of residence.
For example, you want to insulate the attic of a house in the Moscow region with mineral wool. It is necessary to take its thermal conductivity coefficient (0.045 W / m2 ° C) and substitute it into the formula for calculating the thickness:
δ = R x λ, where:
- δ is the thickness of the heat-insulating layer, m;
- λ is the thermal conductivity of the insulation, W/m2 °C.
It turns out δ \u003d 5 x 0.045 \u003d 0.225 m or 225 mm. This is the minimum value, but it is better to lay the thickness of the mineral wool layer at 250 mm.
Warming technology
As we have already said, the insulation of the pitched roof and attic walls is carried out from the inside by filling the gaps between the rafters with heat-insulating material. To better understand the scope of work, it is worth looking at the general scheme of the attic in the context:
Here, mineral wool is used as a heater, which is cut into a size 2-3 cm larger than the distance between the rafters. This is done so that the plates are inserted tightly and held on their own. But before putting them in place, it is necessary to protect the wool from moisture from the outside, for which a special film must be laid under the roofing - a diffusion membrane. The general "pie" of insulation is shown in the diagram:
What's the catch here. Between the waterproofing and the roofing (in this case, a metal tile), it is necessary to leave a ventilation opening - an air duct with a width of 30 to 50 mm. It passes under the entire surface of the roof of a wooden house and serves to circulate air that enters there from below, from under the overhang. Air comes out from above, on the ridge, as shown in the figure:
The tasks of the ventilation opening:
- remove moisture and condensate from the under-roof space;
- prevent overheating of the attic space in summer, when the metal tile is strongly heated by the sun.
Below the opening is a special waterproofing film - a diffusion membrane, nailed to the rafters from the outside by the planks of the counter-lattice. Its peculiarity is that the film does not let water through, but at the same time it is vapor permeable. That is, in case of leakage, mineral wool is protected by a membrane from water, but it can release moisture through it into the ventilation opening. From below, the insulation is also protected, only with a vapor-tight film. Thus, cotton wool will not absorb moisture from the room.
All these troublesome measures are necessary so that the attic insulation with mineral wool, made by hand, can last as long and efficiently as possible. After all, unlike a conventional roof, it will be difficult to track the state of the “pie” of thermal insulation, since it is hidden behind the interior decoration.
The remaining enclosing structures of the attic - the floors and vertical walls of the gables are insulated in traditional ways. The pediments of stone houses should be sheathed with insulation from the outside using a dry or wet method, and wooden ones can also be inside, stuffing bars on the walls. Cotton wool is laid between them using the same technology, using protective films.
Advice. Since the foam still has the ability to absorb moisture in small quantities, the right decision would be to lay it using the same technology as the mineral wool. Although in practice it is often used without any vapor barrier, inserting the plates between the rafters and fixing it with mounting foam.
Thermal insulation of the attic with polystyrene foam
Taking advantage of the fact that foam plastic and extruded polystyrene foam repel water by 100%, you can not use film or foil from the inside when insulating the attic. It is optimal to lay the insulation in 2 layers, for which they take ordinary plates and with a selected quarter. The first are tightly inserted between the rafters flush with the inner surface of the board. The second ones are laid on top, fastening to the rafters and the first layer with the help of self-tapping screws.
When installing the first layer of insulation, remember that you need to provide a ventilation gap and lay a diffusion membrane. By the way, it is necessary in any case, even if the insulation is placed on the floors of the attic, and the roof is not insulated at all. Waterproofing always protects the interior from wind blowing and water ingress.
Two layers of expanded polystyrene not only insulate the attic well, but also protect wooden structures from moisture that occurs inside the room. How to do this is shown in the video:
Conclusion
When insulating the attic floor, it is necessary to remember all the nuances and strictly follow the technology. It is especially important to scrupulously treat the laying of hydro and vapor barrier, carefully sealing all joints with double-sided construction tape. Not only the service life of the insulation depends on this, but also all wooden structures, which can also suffer from constant exposure to moisture.
The arrangement of living space on the site of the attic has long ceased to be a rare occurrence. More and more home owners are interested in how to properly carry out repairs so that life “under the roof” is no less comfortable than in the house itself. Consider how to make attic insulation if the roof is already covered, what materials are best suited for this purpose and what nuances you should pay attention to.
The attic is not just a habitable attic. There are some norms that distinguish these two rooms from each other. First of all, the attic roof must necessarily have a slope. In addition, the height of the room established by the norm must be at least 2.5 m.
Focusing on an attractive appearance, many decide to equip the attic. But in reality, you have to deal with some nuances, which it is advisable to familiarize yourself with before starting work:
- the materials that were used to build the attic directly determine the further heat loss in this room. Therefore, their choice should be approached very responsibly;
- Properly selected engineering solutions have no less influence, which allow providing all the necessary communications on the top floor;
- the shape of the roof plays a significant role. It can be single-sided, double-sided or broken;
- in order to hide the load-bearing elements of the roof, you will have to show imagination;
- the attic can be located not only on the territory of the house, but also go beyond it, relying on columns.
Each of these aspects has its own impact on the approach that will be required for high-quality roof insulation. But the main role still belongs to the two main materials - heat and water insulator. On the one hand, the space under the roof is in the coldest zone of the building. On the other hand, a strong difference between the temperature inside and outside often causes condensation, which has a destructive effect on materials.
The best materials for do-it-yourself attic insulation
For internal attic insulation, there are many suitable options. But your choice must be made based on the characteristics of the region of residence, as well as the design features of the particular roof with which to work. Consider what options exist today and what features are characteristic of them.
Attic insulation with foam plastic: the pros and cons of the material
Polyfoam is one of the most famous heaters, which occupies its niche among inexpensive thermal insulation materials. Its price is indeed significantly lower than that of many others, but this is far from its only advantage:
- Styrofoam does not absorb moisture at all. If the material is pre-treated with an impregnation specially designed for this, then the water will simply drain down the surface;
- light weight is another advantage that greatly facilitates transportation and installation, and also reduces the load on the roof;
- the thermal conductivity of the foam is very low, so that it copes with its direct functions more than fully;
- Styrofoam is easy to cut and fasten. This allows you to work with it without any problems, even in the absence of any experience.
Interesting! In terms of cost, this method can only be compared with the insulation of the ceiling with expanded clay, although now this method is used less and less.
Based on these characteristics, we can conclude that polystyrene foam is practically a win-win option when it comes to insulating the attic from the inside. But the insulation of walls with foam plastic from the inside also has disadvantages, and sometimes they turn out to be much more significant than the advantages:
- the vapor permeability of the foam is at a very low level. As a result, the room is often stuffy and hot. It also leads to an increase in humidity, which causes the development of fungi and mold on the wooden elements of the roof;
- despite its artificial origin, this material is often damaged by rodents;
- over time, wood tends to shrink, which leads to the formation of gaps between the foam elements. It is impossible to fix this, and the only way to solve the problem is to completely replace the heat-insulating material.
Many believe that the listed disadvantages are greater than the advantages and insulation of the attic with foam plastic is not justified. But it is impossible not to admit that this is one of the most budget options, which causes a minimum of hassle, and subject to the installation technology, it may well become an alternative to more expensive solutions.
Attic insulation with polystyrene foam: advantages, disadvantages and features
Extruded polystyrene foam is very similar to Styrofoam. Their technical characteristics are almost identical, with the exception of one significant aspect - installation technology. If the foam needs to be laid between the rafters, then the expanded polystyrene is placed on top, which eliminates the risk of cracks and gaps.
Useful advice! Some manufacturers offer buyers plates with stepped joints, which makes the joints even more durable and reliable. Such fixation of the elements among themselves is an ideal option for insulating the roof of the attic.
Among other advantages of roof insulation with polystyrene foam, one cannot fail to note its low weight, which is perfectly combined with high strength and resistance to external influences. In addition, the operational life of this material is quite long, subject to the entire attic insulation technology with foam.
Expanded polystyrene is not prone to rotting or decomposition processes, which is also important in the case of roof work. It can be topped with any topcoat that will give an attractive appearance and provide additional protection.
Working with expanded polystyrene on your own is simple: a variety of adhesive mixtures and mastics are suitable for fixing it. And in some cases, even a construction stapler is used. So for installation there is no need to purchase any expensive additional elements.
But behind all these positive characteristics, one should not forget about the only, but rather serious, drawback of polystyrene foam insulation from the inside of walls and roofs - the material has an increased level of combustibility. For owners, this means the need for a more careful and thoughtful summing up of all communications, in particular, electricity.
Of course, manufacturers are trying to minimize this drawback, but today we can say with confidence that this issue remains open, and every owner who has made a choice in favor of insulating the walls from the inside with foam plastic is obliged to take care of his safety.
Interesting! It is no coincidence that this material is most often chosen for warming the balcony. Expanded polystyrene has a very low thermal conductivity, and at the same time on the balcony it practically does not have to come into contact with electricity.
Insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool: a worthy alternative to penoplex
Mineral wool is another thermal insulation material that is used everywhere and is widely known for its characteristics. It got its name because of the fibrous structure, similar to medical cotton wool. You can buy it in rolls, which makes transportation and installation even more convenient.
Low thermal conductivity is perfectly combined with the ability not to absorb moisture. Although, if this happens, the material dries quickly without losing its appearance and technical characteristics.
Mineral wool belongs to the category of environmentally friendly and safe materials, which becomes noticeable even if the upper part of the roof is covered with metal tiles, which are prone to strong heating under the influence of sunlight. In addition, mineral wool also serves as a sound-absorbing barrier, and unlike polystyrene, it is completely of no interest to rodents and various insects.
Roof insulation from the inside with mineral wool should be done taking into account the fact that this is a rather elastic material, even despite its soft fibrous structure. It is quite capable of being held between the rafters, subject to high-quality fixation.
Useful advice! In the process of cutting mineral wool for laying sheets between the rafters, it is necessary to leave a margin of about 2 cm. This will allow them to be held and not fall out even if there are no additional fasteners.
Insulation of the roof from the inside with glass wool: is it worth using this material
According to its characteristics, glass wool is similar to mineral wool, but in this case, the fibers that make up the material are longer, which generally increases the elasticity of the material. Slightly higher and strength indicators and soundproofing ability. But when in contact with moisture, glass wool is inferior to mineral wool, absorbing more water.
The use of glass wool for insulation of residential premises does not lead to any negative consequences for the health of residents. No toxic substances are used in the production process. In addition, glass wool is characterized by a low flammability index.
In the process of working with the material, safety regulations are required to avoid getting glass wool fibers into the air. Its small particles can cause irritation of the mucous membranes, and therefore the use of a respirator and goggles is a prerequisite.
Useful advice! Sometimes glass wool fibers can irritate the skin, so it is recommended to wear closed clothing and even gloves when working with it.
Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic roof from the inside using stone wool
Stone wool is the most expensive option among similar materials. But at the same time, it is the safest for human health and significantly exceeds all other options in terms of reliability. Here are some of its main advantages:
- the thermal conductivity coefficient of this material is one of the lowest;
- stone wool remains completely environmentally friendly even when heated;
- the layer of this heat insulator is also an excellent noise-absorbing barrier;
- the level of vapor permeability is very high;
- the material practically does not burn;
- no mechanical loads can deform stone wool or affect its characteristics;
- the material has a long service life;
- stone wool can be purchased in the form of slabs, which are easily cut into segments of the required length and attached to the ceiling surface.
Due to the high cost of stone wool, they often try to replace it with mineral wool or glass wool. But such a replacement cannot be called complete, since this affects the quality of insulation quite seriously. Many users claim that the price of the material is quite justified, and subject to the installation technology, it very quickly pays for the provoked costs.
Related article:
Types of insulation for roofs and ceilings. Mineral and synthetic roof insulation. Mansard roof insulation.
In addition, it is quite possible to do all the work on insulating the roof of the attic from the inside with your own hands. A video instruction can demonstrate the procedure for carrying out the work, and the recommendations of specialists will help you avoid common mistakes.
Insulation of the attic with ecowool is one of the most effective ways to combat the cold.
Ecowool is a pre-shredded material that is first blown into the cracks, and then, using the same method, a layer is placed between the ceiling and the rafters, using a device specially designed for this. This is an expensive procedure, but it allows you to completely eliminate all the risks of drafts and ensure the most effective insulation.
Ecowool consists of 80% completely natural material - paper, the properties of which are very similar to those characteristic of wood. With its natural origin, ecowool reduces the level of heat loss no less effectively than other materials.
One of the components that is part of ecowool is borax. According to its characteristics, it is an antiseptic of natural origin, which makes it possible to provide wooden roof elements with effective protection against the formation of fungus and mold.
Ecowool is applied in a thin layer, but at the same time it provides a decent level of not only heat, but also sound insulation. The material retains its characteristics even after decades of use. So not too low cost is the only drawback of this material, which is fully justified by its excellent properties.
Attic insulation with polyurethane foam: technology basics and material features
Foamed polyurethane foam is the most modern among all the listed ways to insulate the attic. Its main difference is the complete absence of joints or gaps that can become a source of cold air. In addition, the operational period of this material is one of the longest, and is up to 30 years.
Foamed polyurethane foam is not subject to shrinkage, even if the wooden roof of the house begins to deform a little over time. Its solid structure completely eliminates the risk of moisture absorption, which eliminates the need to install an additional vapor barrier layer.
But there are also aspects that significantly complicate the process of using polyurethane foam as a roof insulation from the inside. First of all, this concerns the application procedure, which requires complex and expensive equipment. Its purchase is almost never justified, so it is usually rented.
Another aspect is the complex application technology, which provides for a certain experience in this area and does not allow beginners to cope with the task on their own with high quality.
Useful advice! The ideal option is to invite a team of workers who will come with their own equipment and in just a few hours will make high-quality insulation of the attic of your house.
Insulation of the attic from the inside with your own hands using penofol
Penofol is a kind of foamed polyethylene - a technology that occupies its niche among the methods of modern insulation of walls and houses. Along with high sound insulation performance, it is also worth noting that the penofol has a high-quality aluminum coating, which can be applied to one or two sides.
Here are a few more arguments in favor of using penofol for attic insulation:
- the material does not pose any threat to human health or the environment;
- its thermal conductivity is extremely low;
- the closed system of air bubbles characteristic of this material serves as an excellent barrier to steam penetration.
This method is also not cheap and requires significant financial investments for implementation. But, as practice shows, it is better to spend money on quality material once and thereby ensure comfortable living conditions for many years to come.
It is not uncommon for a combination of materials. Materials that match in characteristics can be used for insulation together. For example, mineral wool and polystyrene foam are perfectly combined with each other. The first is laid between the rafters, and the second is placed closer to the edge of the roof. This combination will achieve the desired effect and significantly save on the purchase of materials.
Can provide reliable thermal insulation in combination with other materials
As you can see from the descriptions, each insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages. The only question is to choose the most suitable option that will satisfy the idea of \u200b\u200bmatching the price and quality of the material.
One of the most common mistakes that owners make is a rash choice in favor of the cheapest option for attic insulation. Videos and articles can demonstrate the positive aspects of a particular solution, but you need to choose taking into account all the nuances and characteristics. Attempts to save on heat-insulating material can lead to the fact that after some time of operation, it will be necessary to carry out repair work or even completely replace all the material.
Warming the attic from the inside with your own hands: video and stages of work
Each of the materials has its own fastening characteristics and should only be used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. But if we talk about the general procedure for carrying out work, then there are mandatory steps that are carried out almost always, regardless of the material chosen.
The first layer of waterproofing material is laid out, which should protect the insulation from the damaging effects of moisture. The film is overlapped in such a way that one layer is 10-15 cm on top of the other. The material is fastened with a construction stapler, and the joints are additionally glued with adhesive tape.
Then, if necessary, a crate is created. For it, you can use wooden slats, the width of which is 8-10 cm. You need to attach them to the rafters, placing them parallel to each other at a distance of 50-60 cm. It is very important to check each element individually using the building level. This will prevent any roof defects from occurring in the future.
A heat insulator is laid on the rafters or crate and fastened in a suitable way for it. For example, if we are talking about using some type of cotton wool, sold in the form of rolls, then the material is cut into pieces of the right size in order to lay them between the rafters. In this case, the thickness of the insulation must be such as to correspond to the width of the log. It is especially important if you decide to insulate the walls from the inside with mineral wool plus drywall. In this case, all free space must be filled with insulation.
The top layer of this "pie" is a layer of vapor barrier material, which can be used as a polyethylene film, glassine or roofing material. As in the case of waterproofing, the selected material is overlapped. True, in this case, it is better to fasten with the help of thin wooden slats, placing them in 40-50 cm increments. All joints must be glued with adhesive tape.
Useful advice! If you need to lay several layers of thermal insulation material, you need to lay a vapor barrier film between each of them. This is especially true for cold regions.
As a final step, it remains only to take care of a suitable topcoat, which can be attached to the crate or, in its absence, directly to the bars. It is worth taking into account the weight of the decorative panels used, since the installation of the heaviest of them may require the preliminary installation of a metal profile frame.
The main mistakes made in the process of attic insulation
The end result of the work that is done by one's own hands directly depends on how accurately the technology and all the prescribed rules are observed. Particular attention should be paid to the procedure for laying the waterproofing layer, since materials that are able to absorb moisture later dry out, which often causes cold in the room.
- if the slope of the roof does not exceed 13°, this will cause precipitation to be retained on the surface. The result is rust and leaks. All this can adversely affect the condition of the insulation, so it is important to make sure that the angle of inclination is large enough before starting work;
- installation of heat-insulating material on the walls and roof is not all the necessary work. It is necessary to take care of the insulation of windows (according to Swedish technology). To do this, it is best to invite specialists to surely avoid leakage. Especially if you want to install windows at an angle;
- in order to provide ventilation to the heat-insulating material and the ability to dry out if it gets wet, it is advisable to leave a gap of about 2-3 cm between the material and the roof;
- it is absolutely impossible to skip at least one of the necessary layers of vapor or waterproofing materials;
- if the heat-insulating material exceeds the rafters in thickness, then their height can be increased by filling additional slats on their own.
These simple recommendations can help in the process of work, significantly improving the quality of insulation. However, if for any reason there are doubts about the strength and experience, it would be better to invite a specialist. Of course, you will have to pay for this, but in this case you will not have to redo everything twice.
Warming the gable of the attic from the inside is far from the most difficult task that the owner of the house may face. Often, on the top floor, the owners want to place a balcony, the insulation technology of which also has its own characteristics.
As well as for walls, a wide variety of materials can be used to insulate the ceiling on the balcony, although it is worth noting that the technology of insulating loggias, which has not been mentioned before, is often used here. The step-by-step instruction “Warming the balcony from the inside with your own hands” will help you understand in detail the features of this process.
Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool: video instruction
As an illustrative example, it is recommended to watch a training video, which presents in detail the technology of wall insulation from the inside with mineral wool. This will allow you to familiarize yourself with all the nuances in detail and avoid the previously mentioned common mistakes.
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