How to fix a round pipe on the roof. How and how to fix a leak on the roof near the pipe? Repair of leaking pipework

is an extremely responsible task in itself, requiring special accuracy, sequence of actions, and strict adherence to the developed technological recommendations. Whatever material is used to cover the roof, it must ultimately provide one hundred percent protection of the building from the destructive effects of precipitation.

One of the most vulnerable in terms of possible water penetration and difficult to install nodes is the adjoining of the roof to the chimney or ventilation pipe. The durability of the truss system, the attic floor, and often even the finishes in the house itself directly depends on how well such areas will be sealed. Therefore, it is very important to treat this stage of roofing work with special attention and accuracy.

Features of the arrangement of the passage of the chimney through the roof

A high-quality adjoining of the roofing material to the pipe can only be done if the roof has a reliable rigid crate corresponding to the type of roof and the steepness of the slopes, on which the load will be evenly distributed both from the mass of the roof system itself and from external influences.

  • The best option is when the chimney is installed even before the arrangement of the crate. That is, in most construction of the rafter system, a passage is provided for it, reinforced with additional details. In such cases, it will be much easier to connect sheet or piece roofing material to the pipe than in those when it is necessary to organize a passage for the newly erected pipe in the finished crate.
  • If the pipe is installed later, then in order to make room for the passage of the chimney, it will be necessary to dismantle some elements of the crate, which may well weaken the overall structure.
  • It is also necessary to foresee in advance that the pipe does not fall on the rafter leg, since its partial or complete dismantling is an extremely undesirable operation. If the pipe still falls on one of the rafters, and part of it has to be removed, then before carrying out this process, it is necessary to immediately install retaining posts under the remaining parts, which are fixed to the floor beams. In addition, most often you also have to connect parts of this leg with whole rafters, horizontal lintels.
  • Whatever option neither considered, around the chimney, it is imperative to equip an additional reliable frame, which must be firmly connected to other elements of the rafter system and roof sheathing.

Prices for chimney pipes

flue pipe


  • The clearance between the chimney and the elements of the truss system is regulated by the rules of SNiP 41-01-2003, clause 6.6.22. It states that the distance from the surfaces of concrete and brick chimneys to any parts of the truss system and roofing "pie" made of combustible material should be no less than 130 mm. From ceramic pipes that do not have insulation, this clearance must be at least 250 mm, and in the presence of thermal insulation - also at least 130 mm.

Remaining not closed space between the pipe and combustible or even low-combustible roof coverings, only completely non-combustible materials (usually sheet metal is used for these purposes).

The design of the junctions of the roofing to the pipe

When a reliable basis for arranging the adjoining of the roofing material to the chimney is ready, you can proceed to the installation of the coating sealing elements.

The design of the system for adjoining the coating to the pipe may be different, depending on the selected roofing material. The functions that are assigned to the elements included in the junction design are sealing and waterproofing the joints of the roof covering and ventilation or chimney pipes, as well as the removal and redirection of water flows flowing from the roof ridge to the pipe from above.

The scheme for arranging such an junction should ideally be determined even when drafting the truss system and roofing. The fact is that some options involve the installation of individual structural parts before laying the roofing.

In addition to the type of roof chosen to cover the roof, the location of the chimney, its shape, and the material from which it is made should also be taken into account when drafting the project.

Professional builders usually recommend that only ready-made structures, which are produced by roofing manufacturers, be used for arranging junctions. However, many craftsmen prefer to make these parts on their own.


It should be noted that the chimney pipe passing through the roof directly on the ridge line of the roof is the easiest to seal. With this arrangement, water during rain, as well as snow drifts in winter, are not able to accumulate above the back wall of the pipe, which minimizes the risk of roof leakage in this, perhaps, the most vulnerable junction.

It will not be difficult to equip a reliable connection of the roofing material to the chimney, which is located in close proximity to the ridge line, that is, almost immediately behind the ridge element. A very small space is also obtained above the pipe, which does not allow the accumulation of snow and water.


But to perform high-quality sealing of the chimney located in the middle or lower part of the roof slope is much more difficult. In this case, waterproofing must be especially reliable. Therefore, quite often, and especially, for example, when the roof is covered with a soft bituminous roof, it is necessary to equip an additional pitched structure - as shown in the illustration above. Such a special break in the roof will dilute water flows, directing them along the side walls of the pipe. Such protective extensions to the pipe are usually called grooves.


And, of course, the most difficult thing is to qualitatively equip the junction around the chimney, which falls on the middle or lower part of the valley. The pipe in this case will be in the path of pronouncedly directed flows of water, which, during rain or snowmelt, will flow into the chute of the junction of the slopes. In this case, it is extremely important to reliably seal not only the back side of the pipe, but also its side lines. Therefore, even at the design stage, it is necessary to try very hard to avoid such a location of the pipe.

Now, in order to answer the most popular questions that arise in the process of arranging this roof assembly, it is necessary to consider several options for sealing pipe passages through the roof.

Sealing passages of round pipes

As you know, stoves and fireplaces in recent years are increasingly equipped with round chimneys of different diameters. Modern metal chimney pipes most often represent a "sandwich construction", that is, they consist of three layers - two metal cylinders, external and internal, and a layer of thermal insulation between them. As a thermal insulation, as a rule, basalt-based mineral wool is used.

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metal tile

Manufacturers have provided for sealing the adjoining of such round pipes to the roofing with special elements - penetrations. These parts can be made of metal or an elastic, heat-resistant composite material, which is mounted in combination with metal elements.

In principle, according to the same principle, a hermetic adjoining of the roof is also arranged for ventilation pipes.

Metal penetration for round pipes

Variants of finished metal products for arranging the adjoining of the roof to round pipes usually consist of two parts. This is an apron cap and the so-called "sole", which is a rigid base and made of steel sheet, on which the cap is fixed by the manufacturer. Metal penetrations differ from each other in the angle of inclination of the lower plate of the structure with respect to the cap, therefore, are selected depending on the slope of the roof. As a rule, in specialized stores you can always find the right version of the products, since they are produced for roof slopes of various slope slopes.

The upper part of the cap, before mounting the structure on the roof, is cut off to the diameter of the chimney pipe, since it must pass freely through the opening of the cap. Then, the “sole” is rigidly fixed to the roof surface with the help of roofing screws, on which sealing elastic gaskets made of rubber or neoprene are put on.

Very often, when installing a metal penetration on a relief roofing, to enhance the sealing of the abutment, a metal sheet is fixed above the pipe, which is brought under the ridge element and fixed overlay on the upper side of the “foot” of the penetration.


After the sole is fixed on the roof surface, and the pipe is passed through the penetration, the upper edge of the cap is pressed against the chimney using a special clamp, in which a heat-resistant elastic gasket is installed. This element will protect the junction of two elements from moisture ingress into it.

Ready elastic penetrations

As mentioned above, in addition to metal penetrations, you can also find elastic ones on sale, equipped in the lower part with a sole made of soft flexible metal, such as lead or aluminum. Through this plastic, but retaining the shape given to it, framing the "sole" of the penetration, it is fixed to the crate, through the surface of the roofing material. The cap itself is made of weather-resistant elastic rubber, and tightly covers the pipe around the circumference, especially since it is usually also “caught” with a metal clamp.

Slate prices


The advantage of elastic penetrations lies in their versatility, as they can be installed on slopes that are built at any slope. Due to the flexibility of the combined penetration base, the sole is easy to shape the relief of the roofing material.

Such flexible penetrations for round pipes are often referred to as "master flash". There is no shortage of such products in our time. And installation is very simple, and available to any owner of the house.


Video: installation of an elastic penetration for a master flash chimney

Sealing the junction of the roof to the round pipe using aluminum or lead tape

In cases where, for some reason, it is not possible to use ready-made penetrations for sealing pipe passages, a special self-adhesive aluminum or lead tape can be used to perform these works. Due to the flexibility, heat resistance and versatility of this material, you can use it to form a penetration yourself.


Pieces of tape are pasted over the vertical part of the pipe with the transition to the roofing. And then the tape is fixed around the chimney - in this way, sealed abutment joint.

This material is highly resistant to various external negative influences: high and low temperatures and their sudden changes, to moisture, ultraviolet radiation,

In order for the tape to provide high-quality waterproofing of the junction, and the sealing to last as long as possible, the tape must be glued to a clean, fat-free and dried surface of both pipes and roofs.

Options for sealing the junction of the roof to pipes of rectangular or square section

For arranging abutment around pipes having a rectangular or square cross section (most often brick), ready-made standard systems manufactured by roofing manufacturers are also used. In this regard, when purchasing this or that roofing material, you can immediately buy or order a set of penetration parts for a brick or concrete chimney for specific sizes.

This standard sheet metal version can be used for roofing materials such as, profiled sheet, as well as the familiar slate of the old and new modifications. For these coatings, the joint sealing scheme shown below is usually used.


So, before roofing sheets are fixed on the frame of the crate, preparatory work is carried out, which includes the following steps.

  • Additional crate bars are fixed around the pipe, their cross-sectional size can be the same as that of other crate elements.
  • Then, from the front wall of the pipe down to the eaves of the roof is fixed, so-called"tie", equipped flanging on both sides. The tie is usually made from galvanized sheet metal.
  • Further, around the pipe, on top of the “tie”, a wall profile is laid and fixed. Its upper edge, which has a bend in the opposite direction with a size of 8 ÷ 10 mm, is inserted into a pre-cut groove on the chimney wall.
  • Then, at this junction of the wall apron and the pipe wall, it is imperative to apply a weather-resistant sealant, that is, intended for external work.
  • The next step is the installation of roofing material.
  • The final stage is the installation and fixing of the external wall profile - an apron, consisting of four elements, installed on all sides of the pipe. These parts of the apron are screwed to the walls of the chimney, and are also fastened together at its corners.

Another, more modern option for sealing the abutment involves the use of self-adhesive waterproofing lead tape, which is convenient for use on both flat and any relief roofing.

When using such a tape, it must be fixed on the surfaces of the pipe walls with the help of special clamping metal strips, which can be made independently. The upper joint of the strips with the pipe walls must be additionally covered with a layer of weather-resistant sealant.

Flexible waterproofing self-adhesive tape is perfect for sealing the abutment of roofing coverings with tall enough embossed pattern, as it easily takes its shape when pasted and retains it. Such a tape is very often used to close joints if the roof is covered with ceramic tiles, slate or ondulin.

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ceramic tiles

Sealing the adjoining ondulin roof to a brick chimney - step by step

It has already been said above that many manufacturers of roofing materials tend to accompany their products with proprietary systems for sealing pipe passages. One example is the design system for adjoining the pipe to the wavy cellulose-bitumen roofing material ondulin, which is quite popular in our time.

IllustrationBrief description of the operation to be performed
In this case, a variant of arranging the adjoining of a roof covered with ondulin to a rectangular chimney or chimney is presented.
The sealing system will be mounted after the roofing material has been laid on the crate.
The gap between the coating and the sides of the pipe, as well as below it, should be 20÷30 mm. On the rear side of the chimney, i.e. facing the ridge, the distance between the pipe wall and the batten can vary between 50 and 100 mm.
In order to fix the sealing apron along the perimeter of the pipe, it is necessary to include additional elements of the crate in the roof structure in advance, which are fixed along the walls of the chimney pipe.
For this additional crate, a beam with a section size of 40 × 40, 40 × 30 or 50 × 30 mm is suitable.
The first step is to close the junction of the roof with the pipe from the front side of the pipe with a covering apron made specifically for ondulin.
Usually, the manufacturer of roofing material also produces additional elements for the design of adjoining, ridge and other complex and vulnerable coating units. Therefore, when purchasing material, you must immediately ask about the range of additional elements, and, making preliminary calculations, they must be immediately included in the project.
The covering apron is applied to the place of its future installation - along the lower edge of the pipe facing the eaves.
Marking is made on the apron, according to which it will be necessary to make cuts.
The upper, flat part of the apron should remain exactly the width of the pipe, and the wavy part should have one wave on each side. In this case, it is necessary to cut the wavy part along the lower crest of the wave.
First, the marking is done with a pencil.
And then the apron is cut according to the marked markings.
It is most convenient to cut the part with a sharp construction knife.
Further, the finished apron is pressed against the pipe and fixed to the roof surface using branded roofing nails.
The nails must enter through the ondulin into the beam of the crate installed around the pipe.
In this case, nails are driven into the top of each wave of the apron relief. Fastening is not carried out only on the extreme waves that go beyond the dimensions of the pipe on both sides.
It is very important to drive in the nails correctly, strictly vertically to the roof surface. And measure the efforts so as not to deform the coating when the fasteners are clogged too much.
Now you need to prepare a waterproofing self-adhesive tape "Onduflash-super".
This material is excellent for sealing complex areas - the butyl rubber component has excellent waterproofing qualities, and the aluminum base allows you to give the tape very complex shapes.
The standard tape width is 300 mm.
The length of the first segment should be 250÷300 mm
The cut off piece of tape is applied to the future installation site and preliminarily bent along the relief of the sealed corner.
The function of this segment will be to seal the edges of the previously fixed apron.
After fitting the tape to the installation site, a protective film is removed from its back, covering the adhesive layer.
The tape is applied at the area where the roof adjoins the pipe at the front corners so that it can simultaneously close the upper and lower parts of the apron by 70 ÷ 80 mm.
In order for the tape to bend into the required position and fit snugly against the material of the roof, apron and pipe, its corner is cut.
Further, the tape must be pressed with a good effort to all surfaces.
It is especially important that the tape fits as tightly as possible along the joint line.
First, such sealing is carried out on one lower corner of the pipe, and then the same is done on the opposite side.
The next step is to attach the side apron to the pipe.
The part is pressed against the surface of the roof and against the side wall of the pipe and the cut lines are marked.
Sections of the upper part of the apron must be made clearly along the vertical boundaries of the pipe, that is, the edges of the apron are cut at a certain angle.
And the lower part of the part, located on the roofing, should extend beyond the pipe both in its lower and upper parts by 100 ÷ 150 mm.
Cuts are made along the marked lines with a sharp knife.
First, a metal ruler is applied to the markup and it is necessary to draw a knife along it with gentle pressure.
That is, the material of the apron is cut through approximately ⅔ of its thickness.
Then, from a slight bending force, the apron part breaks off neatly along the cut line.
In the next step, the prepared side parts of the apron are nailed to the roofing surface, under which additional elements of the crate are fixed.
It is enough to drive three nails into each of the side parts of the apron - one in the center and one at the top and bottom.
Further, a piece is cut off from the waterproofing self-adhesive tape, along the length exceeding the width of the pipe by 200 mm. This segment will go to seal the rear, the most vulnerable part of the chimney penetration.
The cut off part of the waterproofing tape is applied to the place of its future installation and bent along the line where the roofing sheets adjoin the pipe. At the same time, they try to immediately give the maximum shape to its lower part, repeating the waves of ondulin sheets.
Next, the protective film is carefully removed from the tape, and the waterproofing material is pressed tightly against the surface of the pipe and against the roofing.
The sides of the tape are cut so that the top of the cut parts can be glued to the sides of the pipe, where the apron elements are already fixed. Thus, the tape isolates the junction of the side element of the apron with the pipe wall, preventing water drops from penetrating here during rain.
The next task is to glue the waterproofing tape on the front side of the pipe. It is fixed on top of the front upper part of the apron, that is, the one that goes onto the pipe.
The width of the tape should be 100 ÷ 150 mm, and its length should exceed the width of the pipe by 200 ÷ 300 mm, since it will bend onto the sides of the pipe and hide under the side parts of the apron.
The tape must also be pressed very well against the brick or plaster surface of the pipe.
Further, the upper edge of the waterproofing tape from the front side of the chimney is pressed with a metal fixing strip.
Its fastening is made on dowels.
The same strips are screwed to the sides of the pipe, 15 ÷ 17 mm below the edge of the apron.
The photo clearly shows how the fixing rail should be located, the ends of which are cut along the line of the pipe corners.
Further, the edges of the apron, remaining on top of the screwed side clamping strips, must be slightly bent from the surface of the pipe.
Now this formed corner between the pipe wall and the slightly bent edge of the apron is densely filled with a layer of polyurethane sealant.
For this operation, you will need a special construction syringe gun.
Now it remains only to cut and lay an additional piece of ondulin on the back of the pipe. Its width should be equal to the width of the location of the side elements of the apron. and the length is from the ridge to the pipe.
An additional piece of ondulin is laid on top of the already laid coating, as well as on top of the waterproofing tape glued to it and the pipe.
The laid additional fragment of ondulin is nailed to the crate directly through the coating that has cooled down below.
Fixation is carried out with roofing nails driven into the top of each wave of the coating.
When the arrangement of the junction of the roofing material with the pipe is completed, you can proceed to the further installation of the ridge elements.
This ridge element will close the upper edge of the additional ondulin sheet on top of the pipe.

The information presented above quite convincingly indicates that there is nothing supernaturally difficult in sealing the area where the roof adjoins the chimney pipe. It is quite possible to carry out such work on your own. However, at the same time, one should not forget about compliance with all safety requirements, since the work will take place at high altitude. Performing any installation operations on roof slopes without safety devices is extremely frivolous!

At the end of the publication, we suggest watching a video that shows in detail the process of sealing the adjunction of a tiled roof.

Video: Sealing the junction with a ceramic tile roof pipe

Installation of a chimney in general is not difficult, however, there are some places, for example, passages through ceilings, which can cause difficulties in the absence of experience. It is important to remember that when installing a chimney, proper waterproofing should be ensured.

No matter how tightly the pipe is placed to the roof, the gap will still be present. In rainy weather, precipitation will fall into the inner layers of the roofing cake and cause irreparable damage. That is why sealing the gaps between the pipe and the roof is an important stage in the construction of the chimney, which should not be neglected.

Ways to close gaps

The easiest way to close the gap between the pipe and the roof is to install a special protective element on top - an apron. Such an element can be built independently, however, it will be necessary to foresee the junction strips on the pipe in advance. You can do it even easier - purchase a ready-made stainless steel roof passage. As a rule, the chimney passage has a circular cross section, and galvanized steel serves as the material for its production. The passage is put on the pipe, and the junction is additionally fixed with a steel clamp. The galvanized passage for the chimney is shown in the figure:

If you need to close small gaps between the pipe and the roof, a silicone-based sealant will do. To date, any hardware store has a huge selection of sealants, your choice must be stopped at a heat-resistant version.

In addition to general recommendations, there is also its own specifics for sealing gaps for various roofing materials. Therefore, the algorithm for waterproofing is different on a slate, tiled, bituminous roof, as well as a corrugated roof.

Sealing cracks in slate roofing

If necessary, an asbestos-cement mixture is used to close the gap on the slate roof. The process technology is as follows:

  1. A round hole is cut in the steel sheet, which is used to finish the ridge.
  2. A ring of sheet asbestos cement is put on the pipe.
  3. For complete tightness, it is necessary to seal the joint of the pipe with the roof with a solution of cement and asbestos, which are diluted in a ratio of 1 to 2.
  4. It is also necessary to fill the gap between the chimney pipe and the slate sheet with asbestos-cement mortar. For this purpose, you can make a temporary limiter out of cardboard.

How to fix gaps in a tile roof

The best way to seal gaps in a tile roof is to use a cement-sand mortar. It is this method of sealing the pipe that will provide reliable protection against the ingress of any type of precipitation.

In order to make waterproofing, you must:

  1. Prepare a galvanized steel collar on the roof, and thus create a place for filling with mortar.
  2. Fill the gap with cement-sand mortar, make sure that it fits snugly against the roof and chimney.
  3. Additionally, make an inclined surface on the collar to drain the liquid.

Bituminous roof waterproofing options

For waterproofing the chimney that rises above the bituminous roof, self-adhesive Wakaflex tape is used. The work steps are as follows:

  1. Production of cutting from roofing tape Wakaflex.
  2. Pressing the cut with a pipe case.
  3. Sealing gaps between the connected elements with special bituminous mastic.

Sealing gaps on the roof of corrugated board

If it is necessary to remove the smoke exhaust device through the roof from the corrugated board, the finished pipe cutting Master Flash is most often used. This roofing element is very convenient to use and can be used not only for corrugated board, but also for other roof materials.

Master Flash is an apron-cap, which is a rubber or silicone apron on an aluminum base.

Silicone Master Flash has a wider operating temperature range, but most often rubber is enough, which can withstand loads from -50 to +130 degrees.

Sealing gaps on the roof of corrugated board is as follows:

  1. Make a hole in the cap so that it is slightly smaller than the diameter of the chimney.
  2. Put Master Flash on the pipe.
  3. Place a gasket under the base.
  4. Seal all joints with heat-resistant silicone-based sealant.
  5. Attach the base to the corrugated roof with screws.

There are times when such waterproofing is not enough and water flows at the junction. The way out will be the use of a special self-adhesive tape, which is reinforced with aluminum. It is very convenient to use, because there is no need for preheating before installation.

Choosing the right waterproofing material will help protect your roof from leaking and premature failure. Following the instructions and diligent performance of the work will save you from any trouble.

The installation of a chimney is usually not a difficult process, however, in some places, for example, in transitions through floors, some difficulties may arise. An important point is to ensure proper waterproofing. About this, and about other nuances related to how to close the chimney, we will talk in this article.

Even if the pipe on the roof is placed as tightly as possible, there will still be minor gaps. During rain, moisture will constantly get into the attic through them, which over time will lead to damage to roof structures. This is why roof pipe sealing is so important.

How can gaps be removed?

The easiest way to resolve the issue is how to close the gap between the pipe and the roof - install an apron on top. You can do it yourself, in which case you will need to provide in advance the strips for connecting to the pipe. There is an easier way - to buy a ready-made passage for a stainless steel roof. Often, round shaped passages are made for the chimney, and they are made of stainless steel. The passage is mounted on the pipe, and the junction is fixed with a steel clamp.

If you need to cover up the minor gaps formed between the pipe and the roof, then silicone sealant can be used for this purpose (read: “Which sealants for chimneys are better to use - types. characteristics”). On sale you can find a huge variety of them, but we need its heat-resistant appearance.

The process of how to close a roof around a round pipe will differ slightly depending on the type of roofing, that is, in addition to the basic recommendations, there are also algorithms that will differ somewhat.

Sealing gaps between chimney and slate roof

Sometimes the question arises of how to close the gap between the pipe and the slate.

The technology provides for the following sequence:

  1. First, a round hole is cut in the steel sheet, which will be required to finish the ridge.
  2. Next, a ring of sheet asbestos cement is put on the pipe.
  3. For absolute sealing, so that in the future there will be no problems with the fact that the pipe is flowing on the roof, the joint of the pipe with the roof is sealed with asbestos-cement solution (proportion 1: 2).
  4. In addition, the gap between the chimney and the slate sheet is filled with the same solution. To do this, for a while, you can make a limiter out of cardboard.

We get rid of cracks on the roof, covered with tiles

On a tile roof, it is best to seal the cracks with a solution of sand and cement, which will best protect the inside of the building from moisture and precipitation.

To achieve the best moisture insulation, you will need:

  1. Install a galvanized collar on the roof, so there will be a place for pouring the solution.
  2. Pour the cement mortar with sand, making sure that it clearly fills the entire space between the roof and the chimney.
  3. In addition, you will need to make a surface, and place it at an angle so that excess liquid flows along it.

bituminous roof waterproofing material

Among the options for how to cover up a pipe on a roof if it rises above a bitumen roof, the most optimal is the use of Wakaflex self-adhesive tape.

Isolation can be done in this way:

  1. First, cutting is performed from the Wakaflex tape.
  2. At the next stage, this cutting must be pressed with a pipe case.
  3. At the end, all remaining gaps between the parts to be joined are sealed with bituminous mastic.

The process of eliminating gaps in the roof of corrugated board

As a rule, when removing the chimney through the roof from the corrugated board, they use the ready-made pipe cutting Master Flash. Its advantage is also that it is very convenient to use such a set, it is applicable for roofs made of almost any material. See also: "Methods for installing a chimney on the roof of a house - the advantages and disadvantages of different options."

In essence, Master Flash is an apron cap made of silicone or rubber, placed on an aluminum base.

As for the operating temperatures, the silicone version of the products has a much wider range - in the range from -50 to 130 ℃.

The process of sealing cracks on a profile roof includes the following manipulations:

  1. A gap is cut in the cap, the diameter of which is slightly less than the cross section of the chimney.
  2. The Master Flush is put on the chimney.
  3. A gasket is laid at the base of the chimney.
  4. The joints between the material are sealed with silicone sealant.
  5. The base of the chimney is fixed on the profile roof with screws.

Often, the described manipulations do not provide sufficient tightness on the profile roof, so that during precipitation, water leaks into the gap. In such cases, the best option is to use a self-adhesive tape reinforced with aluminum. It is very convenient to use such material, since it does not need to be preheated before use.

Thus, the fact how well the corrugated roof will be sealed at the exit of the chimney depends largely on the choice of material and the quality of the work performed. However, we are sure that by following our instructions exactly and by working responsibly, you will be able to protect your home from any surprises associated with a roof leak.

Despite all the efforts of roofers to lay the roofing as tightly as possible to the chimney and various ledges, leaks still remain at the junctions. Water from the roof, thus, can enter the under-roof space through the gaps formed. Therefore, all of them must be properly sealed.

One of the most discussed issues among stove builders is how to fix a pipe on a roof. At a time when stove heating was present almost everywhere, when arranging a chimney on the roof, a special thickening was made, which protected the roof from leakage. In our time, everywhere, brick pipes have given way to metal, often serial welded chimneys. It is also worth noting that modern stove-makers, choosing a brick for a pipe on the roof, do not thicken.

In order not to face the most unpleasant situation when a pipe is flowing, you need to figure out how to fix the pipe on the roof.

Gap sealing principles

The gaps are closed using various improvised materials. Schematically, they can be divided into two groups:

  • Elements that close the gaps between the chimney and the roof. These are different aprons, collars, both factory-made and our own. The material for them is corrosion-resistant galvanized steel, rubber or silicone. Additional elements may differ in appearance and their technical characteristics. Functionally, their installation provides the initial rough closure of the joints.
  • All kinds of sealants with which to fill the remaining gaps. For example, cement mixtures or mastics. Today, to solve these problems, more modern materials are also used, which are simple and very convenient when performing insulation work, for example, self-adhesive tapes.

How to close the gap between the pipe and the roof

As soon as the pipe is made, the roofers face the question of how to seal and waterproof the joints. , how to seal a chimney For this, various materials are used. Let's take a look at a few of the most common.

  • Silicone sealant for the chimney on the roof. It is frost-resistant, waterproof material. It is easy to use and affordable. In addition, silicone sealant has a high level of heat resistance, up to 150˚ C, therefore it is widely used in the construction of baths and steam rooms.
  • Bituminous mastic. The surface to be treated is pre-cleaned and dried. The mastic is applied in a layer 3 or 4 mm high. If the gap turned out to be too wide, then it can first be filled with mounting foam, and only then apply bituminous mastic.

  • Ecobit. This insulating material provides fairly good waterproofing. It is a reinforced self-adhesive aluminum tape with a sealing layer of special modified bitumen. It is laid along the perimeter of the chimney.

  • Enkryl. This is a German-made one-component acrylic mastic, which is used to treat problem joints. The waterproofing process takes place in 4 stages.

1. degrease the surface around the perimeter of the pipe;

2. apply the first layer of Enkryl Liquid Mastic with a brush;

3. the pipe is wrapped with Polyflexvlies Rolle (this is a viscose-based reinforcing fabric), which will provide additional elasticity to the waterproofing;

4. After 15–20 minutes, when the mastic is already absorbed into the fabric, a second layer is applied.

According to the manufacturer, it will hardly be possible to see that the roof is flowing near the pipe for 9-10 years.

How to fix a pipe on a roof from different materials

Technologies for sealing gaps depend on factors such as the type of roofing material, the size of the gap, and the shape of the smoke channel. Consider step by step the process of sealing a pipe on a roof from rain for popular coatings.

Tile roof

  • The gaps formed between the roofing and the outer wall of the chimney must be overlaid with stainless steel corners. If the chimney has an oval or round shape, metal corners can be replaced with rubber seals with an adhesive base.
  • A special decorative collar is prepared from galvanized sheet steel. It is put on through the head of the chimney and mounted on self-tapping screws. Thus, a space for pouring is formed between them.
  • A viscous cement-sand waterproof mortar is poured into the formed gap and left for a day. This time should usually be enough for the mixture to solidify.
  • To divert water from the roof, an inclined surface is formed. This is done as follows: a hole is cut out in a stainless steel sheet. Its diameter should correspond to the size of the collar. Putting a cut sheet on the head, it is attached to self-tapping screws.

Slate roof

Mortar sealing is the most affordable technology for sealing a slate roof. However, in the case of round chimneys, the use of this method is associated with certain difficulties. This problem can be successfully solved by the following algorithm.

  • A sheet of polyethylene is placed on a thick cardboard and a ring is formed. It is inserted into the gap between the roofing and the chimney.
  • A temporary restrictive rim is formed on the slate from some plastic material, say, plasticine.
  • Asbestos-cement mortar is poured into the resulting gap.
  • After the building mixture hardens, the side and the cardboard cylinder are removed.
  • In their place remains an asbestos ring, which serves as a waterproofing.

Roofing from bituminous tiles

On a soft roof, cutting is usually done. The gaps are sealed using a special apron, which is framed with a flexible rubber-based self-adhesive tape, for example, Wakaflex. The tape is carefully glued to the existing adhesive layer around the perimeter of the chimney, leading it from the roof surface to the walls of the chimney. Then the cutting is pressed with a case. The gaps remaining between the flexible roofing material and the chimney are sealed with bituminous mastic.

If the dimensions of the slots are large enough, they are first filled with tow or rope. Prior to this, the material is impregnated with compounds that give it waterproof qualities. For example, use oil paint, bitumen and more. Gaps can also be filled with cement mortar.

Waterproofing a chimney on a corrugated roof

Adjacency of the profiled sheet to the chimney with a rectangular section. The most common way to seal the chimney in this case is to install an apron. This shaped element is made of galvanized sheet steel. Install it on the roof painted in the color of the roof.

  • The main part of the installation work is connected with metal junction strips, which must be placed in the lower part of the chimney.
  • Since the pipe is brought out through the corrugated board, as a result, the vapor and waterproofing layers are cut. They are carefully glued to the outer walls of the chimney using adhesive tape.
  • A shallow strobe (about 1.5 cm) is made along its perimeter, using a special machine for this.
  • Part of the junction bar, having bent the upper edge, starts a strobe and additionally fixes it on a silicone sealant with a high level of heat resistance.
  • The next stage of sealing is the installation of a tie. This is a waterproofing sheet through which water flows into the drainage system, bypassing the chimney.
  • A corrugated board is laid on top of the installed elements.
  • Then comes the turn of installing an additional external false apron. Its installation is practically no different from the installation of the internal one. The only difference is that the upper strips are not screwed to the strobe, but to the chimney itself.

Connections to a round or oval pipe. The mating points can be extremely easily waterproofed using an elastic penetration, say, Master Flash. For corrugated roofs, they are used as follows:

  • Choose a penetration of the appropriate size and carefully cut it in a narrow part until they achieve a snug fit of the chimney.
  • Remove the nozzle on the stove pipe and carefully pull the elastic penetration onto it to the very end. Then it is attached to the roof on a self-adhesive base, silicone sealant or roofing screws.
  • Finishing the chimney on the roof is completed by installing a decorative apron on it, which looks like a cap. It is chosen according to the color of the roof. The apron protects the penetration from damage due to mechanical stress or ultraviolet radiation.

The article discusses options for sealing gaps between the chimney and the roof. How to close a pipe on a roof using the most common types of roofing as an example

What is the best way to seal the gap between the pipe and the roof?

The withdrawal of a pipe or ventilation shaft through the roof implies making a hole in it. When the pipe passes, there is always a gap here, which, even at its very minimum value, will let moisture through. Today we will consider how to achieve perfect tightness at the junction of the pipe to the roof and how to close the gap between the pipe and the roof.

Consequences of poor sealing of joints

When removing the chimney, a hole is always made in the roof with a slightly larger diameter than the chimney itself. This is due to the need for convenient and trouble-free pipe installation and safety rules. If the pipe is very hot, and the roofing cake is formed from flammable materials, then the gap between the pipe and the roof reaches 15 cm.

Poorly sealed joints are fraught with a number of unpleasant consequences:

  • Reducing the operating time of the truss system. Wood reacts poorly to moisture, rots or is affected by mold. All this reduces the rigidity of the truss frame and leads to its destruction;
  • Destruction of roofing material. Most roofing materials are perfectly protected from moisture from the outside, but not inside. Water in the roofing cake will lead to the destruction of the roof and its rapid wear;
  • Destruction of the heater. Thermal insulation materials are usually particularly sensitive to high humidity. In such conditions, they lose their insulating properties and begin to collapse;
  • High humidity in the under-roof space. Humid air can cause increased humidity in the attic itself. It will become unpleasant to be there and the interior decoration of the room will deteriorate.

Competent and thorough sealing of the gap is a guarantee of a long and reliable service of the roof and the whole house. Let's take a closer look at how to close the gap between the pipe and the roof on various types of roofs.

Principles of sealing the gap between the chimney and the roof

Closing the gaps is carried out using a number of materials at hand, which can be schematically divided into two categories:

  1. Elements that close the gap between the roof and the pipe. These are various aprons, collars, which are made of galvanized steel, rubber or silicone. They can have a different appearance and specifications, be homemade or factory. Their main purpose is the primary rough closing of the gap between the roof and the pipe;
  2. Various sealants, that is, materials that fill the remaining gaps. These include cement mixtures, sealants. Among modern generations are adhesive tapes, which are convenient and easy to use.

For different types of roofs, the ratio and choice of these materials will be different. Let's consider this question in more detail.

tile roof

On tiled roofs, it is more convenient to use a solution of cement and sand. For this type of roof, this is the best and most convenient solution for sealing gaps.

Let's imagine step by step how to close up a pipe on a tile roof:

  • A special collar is prepared from galvanized steel, which forms a place for pouring the solution;
  • When filling the gap with a cement-sand mixture, it is important to ensure that it fills all the niches near the roof and the pipe itself;
  • An inclined surface is created to drain rainwater.

slate roof

How to fix a pipe on a slate roof? The answer is simple: asbestos-cement mixture.

The order of work will be as follows:

  • A hole in the form of a circle is made in a sheet of steel and mounted on a chimney;
  • A solution of asbestos and cement is created in proportions of 2: 1;
  • The gap between the chimney and the sheet is filled with a diluted asbestos-cement mixture;
  • The mixture fills the gap between the chimney and the roof. For convenience, you will need a limiter, which can be made from a board or cardboard.

Soft tile roof

On the roofs of flexible tiles, cutting is done. The gap must be closed with a special apron element. It is framed with a flexible adhesive tape of the Wacaflex type based on rubber. The tape is wound on the chimney and base and carefully glued due to its own adhesive layer. Further, the cutting is pressed against the pipe case and all gaps are filled with bituminous mastic.

Also, gaps can be filled with cement-sand mortar.

Profiled sheet roof

The question of how to close the gap between the pipe and the corrugated roof is easily solved with the help of ready-made pipe cuts, which allow you to quickly and efficiently close all the cracks. Finished pipe cuts represent the connection of the apron and cap in a single piece. They are made from various materials and designed for a wide range of temperature fluctuations.

Working with this element looks like this:

  • A hole is made in the cap, the diameter is smaller than the diameter of the output pipe;
  • With the help of a soap solution, the element is pulled onto the pipe;
  • A gasket is placed in the base of the cap;
  • All joints are filled with heat-resistant silicone-based sealant;
  • The base is attached to the roof with screws.

Repair of leaking pipework

It often happens that the junction of the chimney and the roof begins to leak water. An adhesive tape with aluminum reinforcement will help to quickly and easily correct this situation. Its use is convenient because it does not require special training. It is superimposed on the cleaned surface in the place where moisture is likely to pass through and is glued due to its own adhesive layer.

Summing up

Sealing the gaps between the pipe and the roof is a simple but responsible task. Even a novice builder can handle it. To carry out these works correctly, it is necessary to take into account:

  • gap size;
  • Type of roofing material;
  • Pipe shape.

The modern market offers a wide selection of not only various sealants, but also ready-made cuts for organizing a high-quality connection between the pipe and the roof. We advise you to pay attention to them when arranging the chimney with your own hands.

How can you properly seal the pipe on the roof?


The options for sealing the gaps between the chimney and the roof are considered using the most common types of roofing as an example. Helpful tips and

The withdrawal of a pipe or ventilation shaft through the roof implies making a hole in it. When the pipe passes, there is always a gap here, which, even at its very minimum value, will let moisture through. Today we will consider how to achieve perfect tightness at the junction of the pipe to the roof and how to close the gap between the pipe and the roof.

In this article

Consequences of poor sealing of joints

When removing the chimney, a hole is always made in the roof with a slightly larger diameter than the chimney itself. This is due to the need for convenient and trouble-free pipe installation and safety rules. If the pipe is very hot, and the roofing cake is formed from flammable materials, then the gap between the pipe and the roof reaches 15 cm.

Poorly sealed joints are fraught with a number of unpleasant consequences:

  • Reducing the operating time of the truss system. Wood reacts poorly to moisture, rots or is affected by mold. All this reduces the rigidity of the truss frame and leads to its destruction;
  • Destruction of roofing material. Most roofing materials are perfectly protected from moisture from the outside, but not inside. Water in the roofing cake will lead to the destruction of the roof and its rapid wear;
  • Destruction of the heater. Thermal insulation materials are usually particularly sensitive to high humidity. In such conditions, they lose their insulating properties and begin to collapse;
  • High humidity in the under-roof space. Humid air can cause increased humidity in the attic itself. It will become unpleasant to be there and the interior decoration of the room will deteriorate.

Competent and thorough sealing of the gap is a guarantee of a long and reliable service of the roof and the whole house. Let's take a closer look at how to close the gap between the pipe and the roof on various types of roofs.

Principles of sealing the gap between the chimney and the roof

Closing the gaps is carried out using a number of materials at hand, which can be schematically divided into two categories:

  1. Elements that close the gap between the roof and the pipe. These are various aprons, collars, which are made of galvanized steel, rubber or silicone. They can have a different appearance and specifications, be homemade or factory. Their main purpose is the primary rough closing of the gap between the roof and the pipe;
  2. Various sealants, that is, materials that fill the remaining gaps. These include cement mixtures, sealants. Among modern generations are adhesive tapes, which are convenient and easy to use.

For different types of roofs, the ratio and choice of these materials will be different. Let's consider this question in more detail.

tile roof

On tiled roofs, it is more convenient to use a solution of cement and sand. For this type of roof, this is the best and most convenient solution for sealing gaps.

Let's imagine step by step how to close up a pipe on a tile roof:

  • A special collar is prepared from galvanized steel, which forms a place for pouring the solution;
  • When filling the gap with a cement-sand mixture, it is important to ensure that it fills all the niches near the roof and the pipe itself;
  • An inclined surface is created to drain rainwater.

slate roof

How to fix a pipe on a slate roof? The answer is simple: asbestos-cement mixture.

The order of work will be as follows:

  • A hole in the form of a circle is made in a sheet of steel and mounted on a chimney;
  • A solution of asbestos and cement is created in proportions of 2: 1;
  • The gap between the chimney and the sheet is filled with a diluted asbestos-cement mixture;
  • The mixture fills the gap between the chimney and the roof. For convenience, you will need a limiter, which can be made from a board or cardboard.

Soft tile roof

On the roofs of flexible tiles, cutting is done. The gap must be closed with a special apron element. It is framed with a flexible adhesive tape of the Wacaflex type based on rubber. The tape is wound on the chimney and base and carefully glued due to its own adhesive layer. Further, the cutting is pressed against the pipe case and all gaps are filled with bituminous mastic.

If the gaps between the chimney and bituminous tiles are large enough in size, then initially they are filled with tow or rope, which are impregnated with bitumen or oil paint.

Also, gaps can be filled with cement-sand mortar.

Profiled sheet roof

The question of how to close the gap between the pipe and the corrugated roof is easily solved with the help of ready-made pipe cuts, which allow you to quickly and efficiently close all the cracks. Finished pipe cuts represent the connection of the apron and cap in a single piece. They are made from various materials and designed for a wide range of temperature fluctuations.

Working with this element looks like this:

  • A hole is made in the cap, the diameter is smaller than the diameter of the output pipe;
  • With the help of a soap solution, the element is pulled onto the pipe;
  • A gasket is placed in the base of the cap;
  • All joints are filled with heat-resistant silicone-based sealant;
  • The base is attached to the roof with screws.

Repair of leaking pipework

It often happens that the junction of the chimney and the roof begins to leak water. An adhesive tape with aluminum reinforcement will help to quickly and easily correct this situation. Its use is convenient because it does not require special training. It is superimposed on the cleaned surface in the place where moisture is likely to pass through and is glued due to its own adhesive layer.

Summing up

Sealing the gaps between the pipe and the roof is a simple but responsible task. Even a novice builder can handle it. To carry out these works correctly, it is necessary to take into account:

  • gap size;
  • Type of roofing material;
  • Pipe shape.

The modern market offers a wide selection of not only various sealants, but also ready-made cuts for organizing a high-quality connection between the pipe and the roof. We advise you to pay attention to them when arranging the chimney with your own hands.

The situation when a pipe is flowing on the roof, or there are leaks in the roof near it, requires immediate intervention. Otherwise, such damage to the roof can lead to disastrous consequences. Fortunately, fixing such a defect with your own hands is quite simple. The main thing is to decide how to close the gap between the pipe and the roof. To do this, you need to choose the right method for eliminating the cause of the leak, determining the place of the leak and preparing the required materials, which must be selected taking into account the type of pipe and roof.

Before answering the question of how and how to eliminate a leak on the roof near the pipe, it is necessary to decide what material it is made of. It is very important. This is the starting point for renovation work.

The chimney channel can be mounted from the following materials:

  • bricks;
  • metal;
  • asbestos.

When eliminating a leak, you need to follow a certain sequence of actions, which for each chimney material can vary significantly. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the technology for eliminating such defects for each type of pipe in detail.

Brick chimney leak repair

If a pipe on the roof made of red brick is flowing, then the following materials and tools will be required to fix the problem:

  • cement brand M 400 or M 500;
  • sand, preferably river or sea, but quarry is also suitable;
  • water;
  • Master OK.

How to close the gap between the pipe and the roof, having all of the above? You must adhere to the following sequence of actions:

  • cement mortar is made from prepared materials by mixing 3-4 parts of sand and one cement;
  • the detected leak site is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and remnants of the destroyed brick;
  • the prepared mixture is applied with a trowel to the damaged areas.

The pipe on the roof is best repaired in sunny, dry weather. So the cement mortar will harden much faster.

Metal chimney leak repair

If a metal chimney is leaking, then to correct the situation, you will need:

  • special clamps with a rubber gasket that can be fixed on the pipe at the place where the gap occurs. The diameter of the clamp should be approximately equal to the thickness of the pipe. Its width should be slightly larger than the size of the crack;
  • in addition, small cracks can be eliminated by cold welding, the instructions for which can be found on the packaging.

These materials for fixing a metal pipe leak can only be used as a temporary measure. As soon as possible, the damaged section of the chimney must be replaced with a new one.

Asbestos chimney leak repair

If water flows down an asbestos pipe, then you can eliminate the leak by performing a series of the following steps:

  • first of all, you need to stock up on cotton fabric and Red Iron paint. You can buy such materials at any hardware store;
  • further, the chimney, namely the damaged area, should be cleaned of dirt and dust;
  • paint is applied in a thick layer;
  • fabric is tightly wrapped over it;
  • then the paint is reapplied.

For the most part, such repairs are also a temporary measure, allowing you to postpone the replacement of the chimney for a certain period. It should not be delayed with the replacement of a damaged asbestos chimney.

Fixing leaks near pipes

If during the melting of snow or in the rain water flows through the chimney, then the reason for this is a violation of the tightness in the place where the pipe and the roof are connected. In the event of a roof leak near the pipe, the existing problem can be eliminated in a number of ways:

  • apply bituminous tape;
  • install rubber cuffs;
  • manufacture and install a metal apron.

All of the above methods allow you to close the leak, so they should be considered in more detail.

Using bituminous tape

If a chimney leaks from rain or melting snow, then the easiest and cheapest way to eliminate the leak is to make an apron from bitumen tape. To perform such work, you need to use the following materials and tools:

  • bituminous tape;
  • scissors;
  • metal brush;
  • gas burner.

The gaps are closed by carrying out the following activities:

  • first you need to use a metal brush, with which the roof is cleaned around the chimney and its outer lower part;
  • a damp cloth removes the remnants of dust and dirt;
  • pieces of bitumen tape are glued at the junction of the pipe and roofing material. It doesn't matter which side there are gaps. You should create a full-fledged apron around the entire pipe;
  • the glued tape is heated by a gas burner, which is pressed as tightly as possible to the roof and pipe;
  • to close the joint more reliably, the tape can be additionally fixed with a wooden block or board (this is not always possible, it all depends on the roofing material).

Bituminous tape is a versatile material. It can be used if a pipe or roof is leaking, made of any material. The tape is able to perform its functions qualitatively for 2-3 years (depending on the abundance of precipitation and other factors).

Using the rubber cuff

If the roof is leaking near the chimney, then you can fix this situation by using a rubber cuff, which you can buy at almost any hardware store. It is installed as follows:

  • a cut is made in the upper part of the cuff, the diameter of which is slightly less than the thickness of the pipe;
  • the prepared cuff is put on the outer part of the chimney channel and lowered to the level of the roof;
  • to avoid the possibility of repeated leakage, it is necessary to use sealant at the point of contact of the roof with the bottom of the cuff.

Some types of cuffs are not easy to stick to the roof. Individual models can be screwed to the roof with self-tapping screws, but this is only possible in cases where the roof is not made of tiles or slate.

The main disadvantage of a rubber cuff is that it cannot be installed on a square or rectangular pipe. What to do in such a situation? Use any other leak repair method described above and below.

Arrangement of a metal apron

A chimney leak at the junction of the pipe and the roof can be eliminated by installing a metal apron. This is done as follows:

  • an apron is made from a sheet of tin, which has a small thickness, the dimensions of which must match the dimensions of the pipe. A similar product can be purchased at a hardware store;
  • the upper part of the apron is attached to the pipe and crimped with a clamp. You need to carefully follow the crimping process. Gaps are not allowed;
  • the lower part of the apron is installed on the roof and fastened with self-tapping screws. To ensure that the damaged area of ​​the roof does not leak, in the future the lower part of the plate should be fixed on top of the roofing material, and the upper part should be removed under the sheathing.

On this, the manufacture and installation of a metal apron can be considered completed. There will be no more problems from the patched area. For additional sealing, the metal apron can be equipped with a rubber lining, and the contact point of the cone-shaped part and the chimney channel can be covered with sealant.

The roof flowing near the chimney can be sealed in many ways. Such gaps are closed in 5-10 minutes, but it should be understood that such repairs cannot be considered high-quality. The sealed junctions of the roof and vertical elements will certainly make themselves felt in a few years. Thus, such local repairs are a temporary measure. It is designed to protect against moisture ingress into the room until the full roofing repair is completed.

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