There are many negative aspects that the summer resident has to face. Either the land is not fertile and the plants do not want to grow, then the summer drought destroys the entire crop, then pests and diseases do not give rest.
For someone, the site is a steep slope and it takes a lot of time and effort to turn it into a convenient and beautiful place. Another important issue is flooding.
Only by carrying out activities aimed at draining the summer cottage, you can get rid of this trouble. Today we will consider what needs to be done for this in order to forget about excess moisture for a long time.
How to dry the area with your own hands? Basic ways
The degree of swamping of the site is different and can be due to various factors. For example, there is such a case when excessive moisture is more due to the relief and type of soil. Those. water cannot leave the site along a natural slope. Then it is necessary to create this slope artificially by planning the territory. If necessary, bring up the earth, fill in the recesses.
It happens that water stands only because you have heavy clay soil. In this case, if it is not possible to make a backfill, you need to arrange drainage. With it, you can drain the swamp on the site. To do work on laying the drainage system, you will need some knowledge, competent calculation, accurate planning.
There are many companies that, for a fee, will perform not only the calculation, but also all earthwork and installation work. An alternative option is to do everything yourself, having previously studied all the necessary information.
Moreover, water from the drainage system can flow into the reservoir, which is arranged at the lowest point of the cottage. The purpose of the reservoir can be anything: for irrigation, a decorative structure with plants, etc.
Almost all methods of draining a garden plot are to divert water from the territory.. It’s just fine if the water has somewhere to leave the site, but it happens that the cottage is located lower in relation to the surrounding area, or there are some structures (buildings, fences, etc.) in the way of the running water. In this case, water must be collected centrally. This can usually be done by constructing a system of channels and ditches.
It should be understood that water must also leave the ditch, which is determined on the spot, depending on the location of neighboring sections. Dig it in the lowest place.
If the site is more or less flat and has a clearly directed slope, then the ditch is placed along the fence in a low place, and it should have a width of about 50 cm and a depth of at least 1 m, a length of 2-3 m.
Then, during the year, the ditch must be gradually filled with various construction and other solid waste (broken bricks, stones, broken glass). It is laid quite tightly, and when the ditch is filled to the lower boundary of the fertile land, a similar ditch is dug nearby, which will be a continuation of the old one.
The removed vegetable soil from the new ditch is laid in the old one. By doing so, you will get a good drainage system around the perimeter of the site. You may have a question, why make a ditch (drainage) in the highest place? You don’t have to, but if another one located above adjoins your site on this side, then there is a sense in such a closed ditch, because it will intercept water from its neighbors, preventing it from flowing through the entire cottage.
As you can see, in order to properly drain the wetland, you need to combine several methods. This includes backfilling, drainage, and the construction of ditches and canals. Another additional method, which is called biological, is to use moisture-loving plants that will absorb some of the moisture.
What plants can be used to drain the site?
Since water is high in wetlands, most plants will do poorly, especially those with tap root systems. The roots of such plants are located deep in the ground and under the influence of excessive moisture and lack of oxygen, they begin to rot.
You can plant such moisture-loving and well-known trees as willow, birch, maple. There are many beautiful forms and varieties of these plants, so they will not only absorb excess moisture, but also become a beautiful decoration for your garden.
From conifers, you can plant spruce, whose roots are located close to the surface, but it is better to play it safe and plant them on small mounds. The device around the perimeter of the hedge of wild rose, hawthorn, spirea, shadberry, vesicle will help to drain the site.
Alder and poplar also grow well "in the water", however, you are unlikely to want to have them on your site due to their low decorative value. In addition, poplar fluff causes allergies.
You can also plant hydrangea, mock orange, but if the site is very swampy, it is better to abandon these plants. Amur lilac also withstands temporary flooding.
Fruit trees on waterlogged soils grow very poorly. Therefore, when buying, choose varieties whose stock has a superficially located root system. And it is better to plant them on specially arranged mounds about 50 cm high (in some cases - 1 m). Of the berry bushes, blackcurrant feels good. Of the herbaceous plants, perennial asters, marsh iris, aquilegia and others are dehumidifiers.
Excessive moisture has a bad effect on the condition of the soil, it becomes acidic. Therefore, any drainage also includes liming, which will help increase the fertility of the soil.
In general, draining the land with your own hands is not easy, but everyone can do it. It will take a lot of time and effort, but the result is worth the effort, because in the end - you do everything only for yourself and your family.
If the purchased suburban area is located on a peat bog, its owners will have to perform a number of works to improve the soil on it. The land in such places, unfortunately, cannot be considered too suitable for growing various kinds of crops. The soil in peatlands contains very little oxygen, which replaces methane. Also, such areas in spring and autumn turn into a real swamp due to flooding. How to drain the peat allotment if necessary - we will talk about this later in the article.
Ways to improve
In some cases, the problem of swampiness of the allotment can be solved in a very simple way - by adding a certain amount of land brought from outside. But, of course, it is possible to use such a technique only when water is collected at the site due to the fact that it is located in a lowland and has a relatively small size. In all other cases, water has to be diverted from the dressing.
The answer to the question of how to drain the site, in this case, can be two technologies:
superficial;
with piping.
The first method is considered the easiest. Open drainage in a wetland with your own hands will be absolutely easy to do. But when using pipes, you can equip a more efficient drainage system.
Diversion with ditches
This method is a good answer to the question of how to drain a swamp on a peat bog. The advantage of this method, among other things, is that when it is used, the owners will not have to spend a penny to drain water from the site. For drainage, in this case, a ditch about 50 cm wide and at least 1 m deep is dug along the edge of the allotment on the side that is located below the others.
If there is a slightly higher, also swampy neighboring area nearby, a trench should also be made on the border with it. This will close access to water from someone else's allotment.
Subsequently, in the process of execution on the site, various kinds of channels will need to be filled with all kinds of construction and garden waste. It can be, for example, stones, broken bricks, weeds, etc.
Benefits of using pipes
The open method of draining water through ditches is simple and cheap. However, this technique is used only in not very wetlands. In all other cases, it is advisable to equip allotments with full-fledged drainage systems using perforated pipes.
The answer to the question of how to drain the swamp in the garden, such technology in most cases is just perfect. The advantages of such outlet networks, among other things, include:
more uniform and faster regulation of the water balance in the soil;
the ability to cover the entire area of the site.
When using such sleeves pass underground. Due to this, the usable area of the site is not reduced. When growing garden crops on such an allotment, it will be possible to make beds, including directly above the pipes.
How to set up a closed system
In this case, ditches are also dug on the site to drain water. In this case, the main trench is located along the perimeter of the allotment. Next, ditches are dug over the area of \u200b\u200bthe site.
When using this method of drainage, a waterproofing agent is laid at the bottom of the dug trenches - a thick film or roofing material. Next, a layer of medium-sized rubble or pebbles is poured into the ditches. Perforated pipes are laid on top. In order to prevent the holes of such drainage lines from becoming clogged in the future, they are pre-wrapped with geotextiles.
Pipes are connected at the points of convergence or intersection of ditches using tees or fittings-corners. Above these network elements, manholes made of plastic or concrete are necessarily equipped. If there are such additions in the system, in the future it will be very easy to eliminate blockages that appear in the highways and clean them from accumulating sludge.
What you need to know
Of course, in order for the water to subsequently leave the section through the pipes by gravity, they must be laid at a slope. Otherwise, it will not work to dry the dressing. Unfortunately, it is impossible to mount the drainage network lines under too great a slope. In this case, the pipes will subsequently silt up very quickly. It is also not worth doing a very small slope of the drainage channels. Otherwise, the system will subsequently work inefficiently.
In most cases, when arranging garden sewage networks, pipes are laid at an angle of 0.5 to 3 cm per linear meter. It is not worth deviating from these parameters up or down.
receiving well
How to drain the site with pipes, we thus found out. But where can you put the excess water itself? You can drain it from the site, if it is located on the outskirts, simply beyond its aisles - into some ravine, stream or pond. But if neighboring plots are located next to the swampy garden, a special well will have to be equipped to receive wastewater. If desired, such a container can also be built on a site located on the outskirts. After all, the water collected during drainage can later be used to irrigate the same beds.
Receiving wells are being equipped at the lowest point of the suburban area using the following technology:
a hole is dug in the ground, into which the main drainage trench is inserted;
the bottom and walls of the pit are concreted with a layer of 5-10 cm.
Of course, in the concrete structures of the well, when pouring, holes should be provided for the installation of pipes.
Instead of a concrete structure, plastic can also be used when arranging the drainage system. It will not be difficult to purchase such a container from companies specializing in the supply of equipment for drain systems.
receiving pond
In most cases, the owners of vegetable gardens on peat bogs, of course, equip a well to drain water. But instead of it, if desired, you can make an artificial reservoir on the site - a beautiful decorative pond. In this case, a foundation pit is also dug in the ground, but wider.
The bottom and walls of the pit for arrangement on the site of an artificial reservoir are thoroughly cleaned of roots and stones. Further, the pit is lined with a durable waterproofing material - best of all with a thick film. Through the holes in the film, drainage pipes are led into the pond. You can disguise them at the bottom, for example, with beautiful stones or some kind of aquatic plants. In summer, it will be possible to release even unpretentious fish from the aquarium into this reservoir. Spectacular marsh plants are usually planted around the pond.
Main difficulty
In principle, as you can see, the answer to the question of how to drain the area from water with your own hands is quite simple. The most difficult task in this case is likely to be the physically demanding excavation work. After all, there are actually a lot of ditches on the site. However, in order for such a system to work as efficiently as possible, it is, of course, necessary to lay trenches on the site, first of all, in the right places.
It is best, of course, to entrust the project of arranging the drainage system of a wetland allotment to a specialist. A professional will be able to take into account all the nuances of the relief of a particular area. However, projects of drainage systems in suburban areas are, unfortunately, quite expensive. If there is no money to order a pipe laying plan, you can try to develop it yourself. In order to find out where it is best to dig drainage trenches, you will have to wait for the first heavy rain. Observing the streams flowing down the ground, it will be possible to accurately determine the optimal location of the trenches.
How to drain a swamp: using moisture-loving plants
Of course, in most cases, it is possible to drain a wetland only in cardinal ways - by arranging ditches or laying pipes. But as an additional measure in such a garden, it is also worth planting plants that draw a lot of water from the ground. It can be, for example, willows, birches or maples. Such trees, since they have a significant height, are planted, of course, usually on the north side of the allotment. Otherwise, in the future, they will block plantings, which, in turn, can easily lead to a decrease in the yield of horticultural and horticultural crops.
The high level of groundwater in the area can also be reduced with the help of shrubs. For example, a lot of water from the soil can be taken by hawthorn, wild rose, vesicle, irga. Such plants can be planted around the perimeter of the site to create a hedge.
Methane in soil
Of course, after draining by open drainage or by laying pipes, the land on the site will, in any case, become more suitable for growing garden and horticultural crops in terms of composition. But in order to further improve its quality, site owners will have to:
scatter a mixture of clay and sand over the site with a thin layer;
carefully dig the allotment using a shovel or, preferably, a motor cultivator.
Of course, a very good solution would be to scatter around the site, in addition to clay and sand, before digging, also manure mixed with sawdust. This will not only improve the structure of the soil, but also make it more fertile and nutritious. The introduction of various kinds of mineral fertilizers into the soil will also make it more suitable for growing garden and horticultural plants.
Advantages of peatlands
So, we figured out how to drain the area from water with our own hands and improve the soil on it. Such an allotment can, of course, cause a lot of trouble for its owner. However, peatlands, in comparison with other types of soils, have their own advantages. For example, in such areas, plants usually tolerate winters much better. The earth on peat bogs is frozen slowly, in thin layers. At the same time, the soil on such allotments never freezes too deep. So on such an allotment, after it has been drained, you can plant, for example, heat-loving roses, apricots, etc.
No one chooses a dacha in the lowlands of their own free will. But what if you got a swampy area, for example, as an inheritance? Do not rush to get rid of such an allotment - given today's demand for land, you will always have time to do this. You can try to improve the garden in the swamp. And for this you need to know what to plant in a lowland so that the plants do not experience discomfort from the close occurrence of groundwater.
A suburban area in a swamp or located in a low, flooded place is usually considered not very successful. And yet, even these difficult conditions allow you to create an interesting and attractive landscape.
A garden in a lowland, of course, does not cause great delight among gardeners, since it has quite a few shortcomings:
- firstly, air stagnates in the lowland, which means that for a site located in a swamp, there are much fewer suitable fruit trees than for a plain or on a slope. Therefore, the choice of fruit and berry crops, as well as other plants, is limited for the lowlands. When buying them, pay attention not only to their frost resistance, but also to their winter hardiness (frost resistance - the ability to endure frost, and winter hardiness - to endure winter thaws);
- secondly, in the lowlands, spring frosts are 3–5 degrees lower than in the plains. Therefore, when the weather forecast promises frosts on the soil of 2–3 degrees, then it will be 5–8 degrees in your area;
- thirdly, in the spring in the lowland, when snow melts, water accumulates and stagnates, which leads to the wetting of the root system of crops growing there.
However, this does not mean at all that nothing can be grown on a plot in a lowland without high costs for melioration and soil filling. A special case if your dacha is located in a swamp and water meadow along the floodplain, as well as next to a pond, ditches and in a ravine.
In the lowland, fruit trees and berry bushes cannot be planted in pits, just like on the plain in those places where groundwater is high. The roots of the plant in the lowland will be in the water, and gradually it will die. You can not plant plants on clay, but for a different reason. Clay, swelling during the autumn rains, does not let moisture through. Therefore, the earth in the pit freezes through, which causes the death of the root system. What to do if the site is in a lowland, and what to plant on swampy soil so that the plants in the lowland are comfortable?
What to do if the summer cottage is in a swamp?
If you don't know what to do with a swampy area, start by determining the water table. To do this, start digging a hole, and as soon as water appears in it, measure the distance from the surface of the water to the top edge of the hole. This distance will be the level of groundwater.
The root system of berries is located at a depth of 15–30 cm (strawberries, black currants, raspberries) to 40–50 cm (red currants, gooseberries, chokeberry, honeysuckle). The root system of stone fruit crops (plum, cherry, apricot, cherry plum, blackthorn) is located approximately at a depth of 70–80 cm. –1.5 m. But if there is clay, or granite, or pebbles under the soil layer of 50–80 cm, then the roots, as a rule, do not grow in depth, but in breadth.
Therefore, in a swamp and where groundwater lies closer than a meter mark, or in an area where solid clay instead of soil, fruit trees have to be planted on artificial hills made for each tree, 0.8–1.2 m high and with a diameter of at least 1.5 m, in the driest places of the site. For berry plantations, solid ridges 50–60 cm high will have to be poured. In addition, drainage ditches will have to be additionally laid along the plantings in the swamp or drainage pipes will have to be laid to drain excess water into reservoirs, which should be located in the lowest parts of the site and further deepened.
Landing hills are located no closer than 3-4 m from each other. So that the soil from bulk hills does not spread, the hill should immediately be sown with shoot-bearing bent grass or white clover. These are low-growing plants, they should be cut or mowed only once a season, as soon as an ear appeared near the grass, and clover - as soon as it fades, so that their seeds do not scatter and dissipate. The roots of bent grass lie at a depth of only 2–4 cm, so they will not compete with the roots of an apple tree, the roots of white clover lie deeper, at a depth of 10–15 cm, which is also not much. In addition, nodule bacteria live on the roots of clover, which, assimilating nitrogen from the air, transfer it to soil nitrogen, that is, saturate the soil with nitrogen fertilizer.
What to plant on swampy soil in a lowland?
Now that you know what to do if your site is located in a swamp, it's time to think about choosing the right plants for the lowland.
To create a proper lawn on swampy soils, you can use special lawn mixtures that endure high standing groundwater and even temporary soil flooding.
From the range of ornamental plants, one should choose moisture-loving and preferring an acidic or slightly acidic environment, since floodplain meadows and especially swamps are usually characterized by varying degrees of soil acidification.
To give in a swampy place, the basis of a wet flower garden is made up of tall perennials: volzhanka (arunkus), Siberian and marsh irises, brunner, valerian, buzulnik, cornflower, aquilegia (catchment). It is better to plant them either in the center of the lawn, or against the backdrop of a high solid fence.
Lower plants - bathing suits, loosestrife, primrose, marigold, as well as ground cover - cuff, tenacity, blackhead, can be used as a border. If there is a reservoir, these same plants in the lowlands can be planted around it, supplementing them with ferns, sedges, and rushes. In the reservoir you can place a water lily and water lilies.
On a plot in a lowland, you can create a decorative swamp. In the lowest place, where water constantly stagnates, we plant different types of willow near the lake, which are beautiful all year round due to their spectacular appearance.
It will be good to feel on a swampy area and sods (especially beautiful ‘Sibirica’ sod, the raspberry bark of whose branches stands out in contrast in the snow). In addition, cattail, yellow iris, reed, sedge, calamus, manna, canary grass, chastuha, and arrowhead will grow well in the swamp.
In drier areas of the lowlands, daylily, delphinium, rogersia, rhubarb, bergenia, hosta and primrose will grow well.
For convenient passages in the lowlands, it is easiest to make wooden walkways with railings, which, in addition, will decorate your site.
Flowers for giving in a swampy place
The most suitable plants for swampy areas are:
In our large country, swamps and wetlands occupy significant areas. On waterlogged soils, ordinary plants cannot grow and develop, which need oxygen all the time to feed their underground parts - roots and rhizomes. Stagnant, still water is quickly deprived of oxygen, and most plants die. Only those who managed to adapt to life in the swamp survive - marsh plants.
Meanwhile, in terms of their chemical composition, marsh soils are extremely fertile. They can produce high yields of a wide variety of crops. But for this you must first drain the swamp. Then barren, unhealthy lands will turn into the richest fields and pastures. Fat cornfields will grow where only stunted marsh grasses and undersized bushes have recently grown.
In our country, a lot of work is being done to drain and develop swamps. The agriculture of the socialist country has already received millions of hectares of new fertile land.
The draining of swamps is now almost completely mechanized. Soviet scientists and engineers have created many wonderful machines that do all the hard, tedious and monotonous work for people.
How are swamps drained?
First of all, you need to remove excess moisture from the soil, that is, give it a runoff. And the water should, of course, flow into the nearest river. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to deepen and widen the channel of such a river, and in some places even straighten it. Here it is necessary to remove the soil mainly from under the water.
Nowadays, floating and land excavators, as well as suction dredgers, remove soil from the river.
Floating excavators are used in cases where the width of the river allows you to dump the excavated soil on the shore. This soil thrown out by an excavator is leveled by bulldozers.
Floating suction dredgers, depending on their productivity, are used both on large and small rivers. The soil extracted by them from the bottom of the river, mixed with water - the pulp - is pumped through pipes to the shore and spilled over the surface of the soil. You don't need a bulldozer here.
But stagnant swamp water will not flow into the river itself even after its channel has been deepened and widened. For runoff, it is necessary to lay more channels throughout the swamp area. First, they dig the main, i.e., main, channels, then the collector ones. The latter collect water flowing from the swamp through a shallow closed or open drainage network and divert it into the main canal.
An open network of shallow drainage ditches serves to receive and discharge surface water into collector channels, as well as to lower the groundwater level in the area being drained.
Along with an open network of ditches, a closed network - drainages - is used when drying swamps. They are plank, pottery, fascinated or mole. Plank drainage is made from boards, which are hammered together in the form of rectangular pipes. Pottery consists of pottery, i.e. fired, clay pipes. Fashin drainage - from brushwood of various tree species, cleared of leaves and small branches. And, finally, the mole is a system of underground channels resembling mole passages.
The main and collector channels with a depth of 1.5 to 2.5 m are laid by excavators specially adapted for working on swampy soil.
Plow ditchers work on the laying of an open shallow drainage network of ditches. This is a high-performance machine: in an hour it can dig ditches up to 2 km long and up to 80-100 cm deep.
A trench for laying drainage is dug using a bucket-wheel excavator or a plow ditcher, then drainage is lowered into it and covered with earth from above.
For laying mole drainage, mole plows and molehill drainage machines have been created. They are set in motion by a tractor specially equipped for working on marsh soil.
Immediately after laying the channels, their slopes are strengthened with turf or sown with grasses to avoid landslides and landslides.
But time passes, and open channels and ditches are gradually covered with sand or silt, overgrown with swamp grasses, become shallow, collapse and, as a result, they begin to drain water poorly, or even become completely clogged. You have to periodically clean and repair them.
So, the swamp is drained. All of it was covered with a network of large and small channels. Stagnant water, accumulated in the soil for years, flows freely through these channels into the nearest river. But this is only the first part of the work of land reclamators - this is the name of people involved in the radical improvement of the natural conditions of lands with an unfavorable water regime. Now the drained swamp needs to be mastered, prepared for crops of cultivated plants. Special cleaning machines are used to repair and clean ditches and canals: some for cleaning the ditches of a small drainage network, others for cleaning collector and main canals.
The first step is to clear the soil of small shrubs, stumps, bumps and wood residues. You can't do much with an ax and a shovel - this is a very laborious task.
A brush cutter mounted on a tractor easily cuts bushes and small trees, removes bumps.
However, it is beneficial to use brush cutters in cases where the swamp is overgrown not only with shrubs, but also with small forests. If the shrub is without undergrowth, it is simply plowed deep into the ground. This work is performed by a unit for plowing a bush. Such a hydraulically controlled unit, driven by a tractor, consists of two parts: a hollow drum and a ski with a knife are hung in front of the tractor, and a plow body behind. The drum, rotating, tilts the shrub forward and presses it to the surface of the soil; the knife cuts the layer with rhizomes in a vertical plane, and the plow body wraps the layer and plows the shrub to a depth of 20 to 50 cm.
Uprooting stumps and removing wood residues is one of the most difficult jobs in the development of drained marshes. The stumps are uprooted by the direct pull of a tractor with hooks on chains or cables, or by a grubber, or by a powerful bulldozer that turns out huge stumps, or by a grubber-gatherer.
After cleaning the drained area from shrubs, stumps, tussocks and wood residues, its preparation for agricultural use begins. It includes three processes: plowing, cutting the layer and rolling.
The plowing of peat soils of a drained swamp should be deep, with complete incorporation of the surface vegetation cover. For this, special swamp plows with a wide grip are used, which plow the earth to a depth of 50 cm, while wrapping the layer and embedding all vegetation deep into the soil.
The layer of earth wrapped with a plow must then be loosened to the greatest possible depth so that oxygen freely penetrates into the soil. The layer is loosened with disc harrows or special milling machines.
Then the surface of the drained swamp is rolled - leveled with special swamp bulk rollers.
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"Fifteen
years ago I started learning
inherited land on a peat bog. This case turned out to be not simple.
(I had to study the relevant literature) and very laborious. I'll tell you how
drain the swamp in the summer cottage. Maybe my experience to someone
come in handy." Here is a letter sent to our website by Gennady Veselov from
Leningrad region. Here is his story.
Peaty-marshy soils are little cultivated in our country. Together with
so they can bring good yields. Naturally, when they should
processed in a manner. The disadvantages of a summer cottage on a peat bog are known. it
methane saturation in the soil of swamp gas and lack of oxygen, as well as
proximity to the surface of groundwater. Therefore, to the question, a plot on a peat bog - what to do, the answer is
the correct solution to the problem is simple: enriching the soil with oxygen, getting rid of
methane and a decrease in the level of groundwater.
How
drain the swamp in the country, where to start? I had the first summer to dig drainage
ditches 50 cm wide and 70 to 140 cm deep. They must be dug with a slope of approximately
1 cm per linear meter. Brushwood was laid at the bottom of the ditches. Branches covered
old roofing felt, which remained with me after re-roofing. On the
roofing felt laid dry grass, which
mowed before the appearance of seeds, so that the summer cottage is not overgrown with weeds. This grass
fell asleep with crushed dry peat, and laid the excavated soil on top, so that
turned out to be a small hill. After its precipitation, bedding was almost not required.
The arrangement of such drainage ditches in a summer cottage made it possible to make the land more
loose, get rid of methane gas and lower the water table.
How to drain a swamp to make beds in a country house
plot.
Peat is known to be a source of nitrogen needed for plant development. But
while it lies in a compressed layer, there is no benefit from it. However, it cost
dig it up and grind it, as, having taken a sip of oxygen, bacteria have earned,
turning peat into land suitable for planting. Of course, and here it was necessary
work hard. After all, in order to get good harvests, at their summer cottage
draining the swamp is not enough. Necessary
clay, sawdust from a cow farm and sand were introduced into the soil. The first few
years, we had to feed our peat bog also with mineral fertilizers with additives
trace elements.
Peat
retains moisture well and is an excellent mulch. Its top layer (3-5 cm)
must be kept dry. This will save your garden from pests and diseases, and the garden from
tedious weeding. In addition, peat soils freeze and thaw.
slowly and do not freeze deeply. Therefore, in our beds, in place of the drained
swamps, plants have never frozen even during winters with little snow and frost.
Thus, having drained the swamp at the dacha, I managed to
in a few years to create fertile soil here, which is suitable for
cultivation of most agricultural crops. Moreover, by ennobling
plot, planted on it plums, apple trees, cherries, pears, sea buckthorn and chokeberry
mountain ash, which began to give abundant harvests. So the garden plot on
peat bog - this is quite feasible. You just need to put your hands on it.
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