Forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. How to make ventilation in the bathroom. The difference between natural ventilation and forced ventilation

The bathroom is a high humidity area, and the bathroom often has condensation due to the high temperature of the water during bathing. In order to keep dry walls, floor and ceiling in the room, it is important to ventilate the room well, otherwise mold will begin to develop, and being in the bathroom will be not only unpleasant, but also dangerous. By properly equipping the ventilation system, you can save yourself from the unpleasant consequences of its absence.

Peculiarities

Any room in an apartment or house should not only be habitable, but also be used with comfort. So, if there are no windows in the living room, then the air there will be stale and stale, which will contribute to the development of pathogens, and the person who lives there will constantly get sick.

It is equally important to make sure that the stay in the toilet and shower is just as comfortable. The bathroom can be both combined and separate, which, in turn, implies a different ventilation device. The hood for the bathroom and toilet must effectively cope with its task, providing intensive air exchange and a constant temperature in the room. Ventilation is especially important in environments with high levels of humidity, because constant contact with water spoils any coating of walls, floors or ceilings and causes the appearance of unwanted microorganisms on it, which adversely affect human health.

In the toilet, an exhaust hood is needed to effectively remove unpleasant odors, which is very important for this room, especially in an apartment. Whatever room we are talking about, it is necessary to create optimal conditions for the existence of a person of any age.

You can take care of the ventilation system yourself or with the help of professionals.

Kinds

Based on the various configurations of the premises in an apartment or house, their dimensions, there are several options for ventilation that can be installed in them. The simplest will be natural ventilation, which is laid during the construction of housing, but if desired, it can be done or upgraded later. Such a system helps to promote air masses, effectively updating them indoors, without requiring the installation of any electrical equipment.

The principle of its operation is that air ducts leading to the roof are installed on top of the room., the hot air in the room rises and enters these secret paths due to the temperature difference. This principle is called convection and works quite effectively if the temperature is different in the room and on the street.

When creating such an extract, it is necessary to provide for some nuances.

The air duct must be placed vertically. Each room in the room should have its own shaft.
If the premises are located nearby and have similar specifics in the form of high humidity, a large temperature difference and a strong smell, then they can be combined with one ventilation shaft.
The natural type of ventilation at a neutral temperature has a small draft, therefore it is desirable to make air ducts with smooth walls.
Being engaged in the installation of ventilation on your own, it is better to make sure that there are no sharp corners that make it difficult for air to pass and be brought out.
One-story houses should have a wiring near the ceiling, which goes to the attic and is displayed on the roof.

The air that is removed from the room has a certain tension and circulation, which is called traction force.

There are several ways to check the ventilation performance.

Bring a match to the ventilation. If there is movement of the flame, then the ventilation is working fully.
Take a sheet of paper and bring it to the ventilation. If he stays on it, then the traction is good, if he falls, then the air is removed badly. The indicators will be inaccurate if the air temperature in the room and on the street is approximately equal.

If natural ventilation is inefficient, it is advisable to use an enhanced version. Forced ventilation involves the presence of an electrical device in the form of a fan. Ceiling ventilation of this type must be equipped with a suitable device that can cope with a given amount of air masses. For such a device, it is enough to have one channel in the room, through which all the polluted air from the room will be removed. To calculate the optimal power of the device, you need to multiply the volume of the room, where the length is multiplied by the width and height of the room, by the frequency of use, which varies from 5 to 10, which is dictated by the number of people living in the room and using the bath, toilet or kitchen.

With a minimum number of residents, the coefficient is five, then it increases relative to the residents of an apartment or house.

Using forced fans in the bathroom can be dangerous, because the contact of electrical appliances with moisture can cause a short circuit. In order not to risk the performance of the device and the safety of residents, it is necessary to install moisture-resistant fans.

When choosing a fan, it is important to pay attention to various indicators.

The presence of a humidity sensor, which itself calculates the moment to turn on when the humidity threshold has been overcome. This type of inclusion helps to significantly save on electricity.
Fans with a timer allow you to set the time for turning on the ventilation, so as not to waste time on this, but to actively use the room under optimal and comfortable conditions.
With the presence of a motion sensor that activates the fan if there is someone in the room.
A device with a non-return valve to prevent the entry of polluted air from the environment into the room.

Modern devices can be equipped with smart technologies that have many functions and are easy to operate. Smart ventilation allows you to achieve the desired result even for people with disabilities. Exhaust ventilation can have an autonomous version and be located in the ventilation shaft of the bathroom, in the kitchen window or any other place where it can bring air from the room to the street. The operation of such a device is carried out on batteries, which means that there is no risk of a short circuit and a threat to humans.

Such a portable hood will be a very convenient option for those who smoke, because it will help to effectively get rid of tobacco smoke and quickly clean the air in the room.

How it works?

Thinking about installing a fan in an air duct, you need to decide on the need for this device. If the hood copes with its work, then it makes no sense to mount additional devices.

To understand how efficiently ventilation works, you can look at the following indicators:

how sweaty the windows and mirrors in the bathroom are during the shower;
damp background of the room, slow process of drying towels;
the beginning of the development of the fungus in the seams of the tiles, in the corner of the room and on the ceiling.

Mold and fungus not only destroy the finish of the room, but also negatively affect the health of the inhabitants of the apartment or house.

Checking if the ventilation is pulling air out of the room is simple - for this you can take a match and watch the movement of the flame. If it does not move, then the air duct is clogged and needs to be cleaned. With a weak movement, a weak draft can be observed, which indicates the need to install a fan. It is important to carry out such a check in optimal conditions, when cold air is blowing outside and the house is warm. It is under these conditions that there is traction and one can judge the state of the ventilation shafts. Ventilation must cope with a given amount of air in the room, so it is important to choose sufficiently powerful devices.

If you install a forced fan, you can clearly hear its noise when it is turned on. It buzzes quite noisily in case of incorrect installation, but if everything is done correctly, the sound will be almost inaudible. The noise threshold for a bathroom is 25 dB. Noise can also occur due to the strong power of the device and the high speed of the blades. When making a choice in favor of a particular product, it is important to pay attention to power indicators, because they will affect the air exchange rate, and, importantly, the performance of additional functions, such as a timer or motion sensor.

Which is better?

In order to make the right choice and install the right fan, it is important to know what exactly you need to pay attention to:

Availability of certificates and quality assurance. The device must be safe and do its job well.
The electrical parts of the hood must be placed in a plastic housing that protects them from moisture and steam.
The optimal power level to quickly remove all the air in the room, refreshing it. If the bathroom is shared, then the hood should be more powerful in order to serve two rooms at once.

Fans of modern technology will like fans with a variety of sensors, a timer.
It is important to correlate the size of the exhaust hole with the dimensions of the fan itself, so that it enters it, but does not hang out at the same time.
The choice of ventilation devices is best made among the range of well-known brands that have proven themselves in the market.
The selection of the fan is also carried out taking into account the noise of the device, which should not be higher than 25 decibels.
Selection of a good device at the best price.

The most favorable fan option would be a device that runs on ball bearings., which makes them quiet and maximizes its lifespan. It is most convenient to use a fan with a motion and humidity sensor, which turns on itself at the right time, which does not require any human intervention and provides the latter with a comfortable use of the room.

The presence of a non-return valve greatly facilitates the maintenance of the room, because no debris, dust and any small particles enter it from the outside, while everything unnecessary, harmful, and foul-smelling is constantly removed.

Self-manufacturing

If you need to install a fan in the bathroom with your own hands, then the easiest way is to purchase a suitable device for this, place it in the ventilation shaft, connect it to electricity and fix it to the wall. If possible, it is better to buy a fan that is equipped with a humidity sensor, which ensures that it turns on at the right time. The apartment usually provides for special air ducts, in which a grid is mounted for natural ventilation or a fan for forced ventilation. If there is no such design, then it must be done independently, making it in a wall opening or in the ceiling. This is true for a private house, which was built as a country house and did not involve a year-round stay.

If the bathroom has a window, this is already an opportunity to ventilate the space., but it is much more efficient to add an electrical appliance to it to quickly pump out air and saturate the room with freshness. In cases where there is no ventilation and even a window is not provided, the shaft will exit through the wall of the house along the top, towards the roof. Having mounted all the structures, you need to check how well the air flows through them, and only after that mount the fan itself. In the process of work, something can clog the channel or partially clog it, therefore it is important to check the patency of both home-made air ducts and those that were provided during construction.

The selection of the fan is made according to the existing hole in the wall. If they do not match, then you will either have to expand it or compact it. Installation is done by removing the grille and fixing all the necessary wires. You can fix the equipment with self-tapping screws or liquid nails. When everything is ready, it is necessary to install the grate in place and cover the joint between the fan and the wall with sealant.

By correctly installing the fan, you can make your stay in the bathroom comfortable and enjoyable, ensuring the safety of all coatings for a person and extending their life.

Materials and accessories

Ventilation for the bathroom and toilet may be ready-made and located in the wall, or it may be absent, then you need to mount it yourself. The choice of materials in this case plays a big role. Air ducts can have a different appearance, be round or straight. The main material for their manufacture is steel, it can have different thicknesses depending on what temperature the air will have and how much it will move.

The main parts are pipelines for the passage of air, but besides them, it is also important to use shaped parts, due to which turns and bends of structures are formed. For areas where the ventilation shaft runs from the outside, copper, textile and plastic parts can be used, which will not only have a high quality factor, but also a decorative effect.

To fix the air channels, you can use a flange, bandage, socket or sleeve. Having drawn up a plan for future ventilation and having decided on the type of fastening and future materials, you can get to work. The next important step will be the selection of the fan itself and its components.

Each ventilation system designed to purify the air must have a filter, which can be of several types:

dry porous;
porous wetted;
electric.

The choice of one or another option is dictated by the amount of dust that the ventilation systems must catch and hold.

Another accessory is a silencer, which allows you to make the operation of the fan less noticeable and louder. Usually they are made of tin in the form of two cylinders, which are separated by an absorbent material. In some cases, it is advisable to install dampers that let air in when they open and stop when they close.

By itself, a fan for a bathroom or toilet can be of four types.

Axial. Used in apartments and houses, it has high efficiency with a relatively simple installation.
Centrifugal. They are used at large industrial facilities, because the ventilation capacity of this device is very powerful and can process a huge air flow using the same energy resource.

Channel. Installed in the duct itself. These devices have a humidity and shutdown sensor. Most often, the device is placed in a plastic case, which makes it possible to use it in a sauna or pool.
Domestic. Serves for serving the kitchen or bathroom in the apartments. For such rooms, it is recommended to choose a device equipped with a non-return valve, which will not allow air from the toilet or kitchen to enter other rooms.

Based on the room, its dimensions and the preparation of the ventilation shaft, you can choose the right fan, and if necessary, make an air duct.

Installation process

To install a fan, you must follow certain instructions. Often, on the package itself with a fan, there are already some recommendations on how to properly install it. However, before you can mount something, you need to check the operability of the ventilation shaft, whether it copes well with air intake and whether it fully removes it from the room. If any problems with the air flow are found, the channels must be carefully checked and cleaned.

To install the fan, the first step is to remove the decorative grille., then try on the fan to a specific duct. It is important to fix the device in the hole with sealant or special glue, but the most reliable option is to use self-tapping screws. Once the main fastening has been done, it is important to take care that there are no small flaws left. Once everything is finished, you can put the grate in place and check the performance of the device.

If there is no ventilation shaft in the room, then it must be organized at least at a height of two meters. It is advisable to place the outlet opposite the doors or diagonally from them. This will help create the necessary air flow for active ventilation of the space. Fan performance can be selected as desired. It can turn on automatically if it has the appropriate devices, or you can activate it by turning on the switch on the fan itself or combined with the light in the bathroom.

The choice of fan must be justified so that its power is enough for the bathroom, and the design of the lattice is selected based on the appearance of the space to emphasize its style and complement it if necessary. By installing such a device, you can extend the safety of all coatings in the bathroom and ensure comfortable and safe use of both the bath and the toilet.

If the fan is installed correctly, then there should be no problems with its operation, and it will effectively cope with the amount of air intended for it in the room. However, if mistakes were made during the installation process or the work was done by an unskilled craftsman without due attention, then the first problems may appear very soon.

Before installing the fan in the shaft, it is important to check the draft in it. If it is not there or it is weak, it is advisable to clean the entire system, otherwise the problem will only get worse over time, and to clean the moves, you will need to dismantle the fan. When checking the draft, it is important to do two tests at once - one with the doors and windows open, the second with the doors closed to cut off access to a source of fresh air.

A combined bathroom with a toilet requires a more powerful apparatus, therefore it is important to correctly calculate the power of the device when choosing it. Knowing the area of the entire bathroom, you can decide on the type of fan. Often, more powerful units are also larger, because they need to pump many times more air. When choosing a fan size, it is important to know the size of the ventilation shaft opening in advance so that you do not have to expand it or put something to fix it.

If over time, when the fan is turned on, problems begin to appear and the device does not work, you need to check the wires and the switch, if it is a trigger element. When installing the fan, it is advisable to securely fasten all cables so that they do not unwind over time, because during operation there is a slight surface fluctuation that can affect them, because over time the contacts will loosen and move away.

Proper height and location can guarantee optimal fan performance, and the cleaned air paths will allow free passage of air from the room outside it and replace it with fresh and clean air.

When choosing a fan, it is important to pay attention to many details. If a bathroom is chosen as the installation site, then the humidity level in it will be quite high, therefore it is necessary to look for markings with the letters IP, which indicate additional protection of the case from moisture and are ready for moist air masses that will pass through it.

As for power, it is recommended not to take devices with parameters less than 100 m3 / h. To save energy, the most relevant will be models equipped with a motion sensor, which turns on the device when someone appears in the bathroom or toilet and turns it off when the object disappears. If there is a desire to use the fan only if necessary, then it is better to choose a device with a humidity sensor in the room, then the fan will start its work as soon as the norm level is exceeded, and stop when the air is fresh and clean.

If you want to take a shower in a well-ventilated area, you can set a timer to turn on the fan automatically, which will turn itself off at a predetermined time by the owner himself. When choosing a fan for high-rise buildings, it is very important to check the presence of a check valve that will block foreign debris and dirty air from letting it into the apartment.

Only careful selection of the device can ensure the comfort of living in an apartment or house. and the use of the bathroom and toilet in compliance with all standards of humidity, air purity and the complete absence of harmful factors that appear when such standards are not observed.

On the secrets of installing the hood in the bathroom and toilet, see below.

Installing ventilation in the bathroom and toilet will help prevent the appearance of dampness, mold and fungus. This must be foreseen before the start of a major overhaul. In these rooms, there are constant temperature changes and increased air humidity, which over time will certainly affect the condition of the walls and ceiling, where pathogenic flora will begin to develop. To carry out the work, you can invite the master or do it yourself.

Types of ventilation systems

Ventilation in the bathroom of a private house or cottage is quite simple: the air duct is located under the ceiling and is brought out to the roof or to a common hood. When the door is opened, the air flow enters the room and exits through the pipe, creating natural circulation.

In apartment buildings, the situation is a little more complicated: the entire entrance is connected to one ventilation duct. In apartments located on the lower floors, the risk of clogging the air exchange system is much higher.

Forced ventilation in the bathroom.

The main types of ventilation include:

natural;
forced;
combined.

The choice depends on the place of residence and condition. In multi-storey buildings, forced ventilation is preferable.

How does natural air exchange work?

A properly installed extractor hood works very simply: air enters the bathroom or toilet, and then exits through the ventilation shaft. The temperature difference between indoors and outdoors creates a draft, with the help of which air flows are constantly moving.

When air leaves the hygienic room, a low pressure zone is created, the difference is compensated by the inflow from the street, which enters through the open window during ventilation. Thus, natural ventilation occurs, which is called forced ventilation.

Natural ventilation cannot take place if the door to the bathroom or toilet is hermetically sealed. For normal circulation of air flows, it is necessary to provide a gap between the door and the floor, through which fresh air will constantly flow.

In case of violation of the natural or mine), problems instantly arise: humidity rises, unpleasant odors appear, condensate can accumulate on smooth surfaces and heating pipes.

Determination of blockage in a pipe or shaft

The working condition of natural ventilation is best checked in the cold season. For this you need:

open a window in a house or apartment for cool air to enter;
close by attaching a sheet of paper;
if the sheet is not pressed tightly by the air flow, then the ventilation is clogged.

The degree of blockage can be determined by the behavior of the paper. If it is held weakly, then the air passes, but not in full. If the sheet does not hold at all, then the channel is completely clogged. In both cases, cleaning or installation of a device for forced ventilation is required.

Forced ventilation

Unlike natural ventilation, forced ventilation in the toilet and bathroom is provided by a fan built into the air exchange system. When choosing it, you need to take into account that it will consume electricity and work at high humidity.

Installation of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, its cost, durability, performance and noise level depend on. It is of three types:

diametrical;
axial;
radial.

The first device is not suitable, it is designed to work in air conditioning systems and heat guns. You need to choose between two other types of devices.

The axial model differs from the radial one in lower cost and more power, but at the same time it produces more noise. The impeller of the axial fan is driven by an electric motor, the air flow goes along the axis of the motor, it is installed directly on the exhaust hole.

Radial fans rely on centrifugal force to work, so power consumption and noise levels can be reduced by changing the pitch of the blades. Install such a device in the ventilation pipe, at some distance from the grate.

How to choose a fan

Buying the right fan is hampered by a large assortment of various models, so it’s better to use a hint. When choosing an exhaust device, several factors are taken into account at once:

These indicators will help you make your choice. You can calculate the required performance as follows:

determine the area of the room;
multiply it by 5;
add 20% to the resulting number.

This will be the choice of device performance with a small margin. The expected change of air in the room is at least 5-8 times a day.

Installing a fume hood

You can install a fan in the toilet with your own hands, as in the bathroom, if there are already ready-made air ducts. Before starting installation, it is necessary to check them for blockages, and if necessary, clean the channels with a special brush. If you cannot restore air exchange on your own, then it is better to call a specialist who will do it professionally.

With a separate location of the bathroom and toilet, it is enough to put a fan in one of the rooms, provided that they are connected by a vent in a common wall and air circulates freely between them.

With a wall-mounted axial fan, everything is simple - it is installed on top of the ventilation hole:

1. The wall around the entrance to the mine is coated with polymer glue, silicone or liquid nails.
2. The working part of the fan is completely recessed in the hole, and the outer part is pressed tightly against the wall.
3. Install the grid and fix the front cover with self-tapping screws or dowels. They usually come with the device.
4. Lay the cable and connect it to the mains.

The stages of installation work are performed in the following sequence:

1. The cover of the terminal box is unscrewed.
2. The electrical wires are inserted into the latch, which is located on the cover.
3. The wires are connected to the terminals labeled "linear phase" and "zero".
4. The cover is put in place.
5. The device is plugged into the outlet to check the correct connection.
6. The diameter of the air duct is adjusted in accordance with the dimensions of the fan. If necessary, use an additional plastic pipe.
7. The device is mounted in an air duct at a certain distance from the grate. For this, detachable clamps with rubber seals or special flange connections with adapters (with a square section) are used. When fastening, use at least 4 bolts.

The ventilation grill is put in place, and the wires are covered with a special box to protect them from moisture.

Some people, in order to save energy, prefer to turn on the fan automatically when the light in the bathroom or toilet is turned on. The operation of the device in this mode may not be enough to maintain an optimal microclimate. This must be taken into account when connecting wires to the switch.

In the absence of self-confidence, it is better to turn to specialists. They will quickly solve the problem of ventilation and carefully perform all work in compliance with the rules and regulations.

When installing a mixed system (natural and forced), it is necessary to have two exhaust openings. One of them will have a fan installed. A mixed supply and exhaust system is used in large rooms, with high humidity, where conventional supply ventilation is not enough.

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible piping is also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:

aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. In high humidity, aluminum braid is prone to rust.
Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different indicators of permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - to hot water.

When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, columns and other types of equipment, flexible connections are also used. Unlike models for water, they are yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and fixtures for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.

Drainage is a hydro-reclamation measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, soil gleying occurs, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (wet), it is urgent to take measures and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging the soil

There are several reasons for waterlogged soils:

clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
an aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
high occurrence of groundwater;
technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various facilities) that impede natural drainage;
violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
the landscape area is located in a lowland, a beam, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What causes excess moisture in the soil

You see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?

the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and nutrition in the soil;
oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell at what level groundwater occurs

Take a close look at the flora in your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
at a depth of up to 0.5 m - grow marigold, horsetail, varieties of sedge - blister, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass;
at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, rank;
from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow on high beds;
the depth of the water reservoir up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
the optimal depth of groundwater for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Do you need site drainage?

Record your observations at least for a while. You yourself will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along a bypass channel, and not let it flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil, and will this be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in an apartment building, an industrial building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the system involved using the forced spillage method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved and the act of testing the internal sewerage and drain systems will be material evidence of the work on the acceptance of the facility.

A visual check should be accompanied by entering into the test report of internal sewerage and drain systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the appendix of the D series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.

Greetings. In this article, we will consider options for installing a ventilation system for a bathroom. In addition, I will talk about how to build these systems with your own hands at home. The topic of the article is of considerable interest, since the bathroom is the place where warm, moist air and unpleasant odors periodically accumulate.

If you do not equip an efficiently functioning ventilation system in a timely manner, staying in such a room will be uncomfortable.

Consider options for ventilation for the bathroom and toilet. It is divided into exhaust, supply and combined. The exhaust scheme provides for the presence of a channel that removes air from the room, which contains an increased amount of moisture. The design of the supply ventilation is able to maximize the pressure in the room, push out warm and humid steam and capture atmospheric air. The combined device allows you to combine the air intake from the street and the outlet ventilation duct. The standard ventilation scheme used when equipping apartments in typical high-rise buildings is exhaust.

Ventilation schemes with which the air in the room will be fresher

Warm and humid air is a favorable environment for the vital activity of various pathogens and, first of all, for mold. Excessive air humidity leads to rotting of wooden parts in the finish and to the appearance of corrosion on metal parts of plumbing.

According to the degree of mechanization, the following types of ventilation system are distinguished:

Schemes of natural passive action - the movement of air is carried out due to the difference in temperature and pressure inside and outside the room;
Forced action circuits - based on the use of electrical appliances that transport air.

According to the principle of operation of the ventilation system, the bathroom is divided into the following modifications:

Exhaust circuit

The simplest in terms of implementation, but not the most effective solution. Such a scheme works by diverting exhaust air through a window or vent. The problem is that without replacement with a portion of new air, the exhausted warm air is taken out in small volumes.

Supply and exhaust scheme

In this scheme, cold air is simultaneously supplied, for example, from under the door, and the exhaust air is proportionally removed through the vent.

This scheme is preferable, as it allows for intensive air exchange. But special requirements are imposed on the design of supply and exhaust systems, since errors lead to drafts.

Exhaust forced circuit

A common option is an outlet in the toilet or in the bathroom with a built-in fan. The efficiency of the scheme is somewhat higher than that of natural exhaust, but lower than that of a passive supply and exhaust system.

Forced supply and exhaust scheme

An effective option, since it is possible to adjust the rate and intensity of the removal and supply of air.

Systems of this type are a modified version of the supply and exhaust scheme, where the removal and supply of air is enhanced by electric fans. The fan is installed directly into the outlet and turns on either manually or automatically, for example, when the light is turned on in the bathroom.

This solution has a significant drawback - when the fan is off, the ventilation intensity is half that in natural-type supply and exhaust systems.

Components necessary for the construction of ventilation systems

External air intake grille

The outer grille is designed to allow air to pass through from the outside. Lattices are issued round and rectangular that, however, does not influence their operational qualities in any way.

The outer grille has a decorative and dust-retaining function. For these purposes, the slats of the grille have an inclination towards the bottom.

Internal grille

This device is installed on the air duct in the room and performs both a decorative and protective function. In order to prevent insects and dust from entering the room through the air duct, a fine-mesh mesh is attached to the wrong side of the grille.

As the ventilation system is used, the grid on the grate becomes clogged with dirt. Therefore, once every six months, the removable overlay from the grate is dismantled, and the mesh is washed from dirt or replaced with a new mesh, cut to the required size.

For greater functionality, the inner grille is equipped with movable slats, which turn around their axis and allow air to pass through in a dosed manner.

Round grates are equipped with a movable insert that rotates relative to a round removable nozzle. In one position, the slots in the movable insert coincide with the slots in the grille and a full passage of air is ensured. In the other position, the slits in the insert and in the outer lining do not match and no air can pass through.

An analogue of the described device in industrial systems is called an air valve. This is a shut-off valve that is placed directly in the duct. In industrial systems, the valve turns automatically when the fan is turned off, while in a domestic system, the air supply can be turned off manually.

The choice of indoor and outdoor gratings for the bathroom is made in accordance with the internal diameter and configuration of the duct and in accordance with aesthetic preferences. The most popular household gratings are round with a seat size of 100 and 50 mm.

air duct

An air duct is needed to connect the inner grille to the outer grille or to ensure the supply of fresh air. The air duct is a hollow pipe with smooth inner walls and with inner cross-sectional diameters corresponding to the fitting diameter of the gratings used.

Industrial air ducts, which are used for ventilation of rooms from 300 m² and more, are made of metal with a surface layer of thermal and noise insulation. When arranging a bathroom, there is no such need, and therefore PVC or polyethylene pipes are used.

On the market, plastic air ducts are represented by rectangular and round modifications. The shape and dimensions of the cross section of the air ducts correspond to the landing size and the shape of the grille.

Plastic pipes are characterized by low thermal conductivity, so condensation occurs in limited quantities. One way or another, holes for draining water must be provided in the ventilation device diagram in the outer part of the duct.

The choice of fans for the device of the forced system is carried out in accordance with their power and landing diameter.

The fans are a compact electric motor with an impeller. This entire unit is integrated into the grille or adapted for installation in the duct.

When installed, the grille with a fan looks little different from the grilles used in passive systems. Most fans that can be purchased on the market or in specialty stores are designed for use in a range hood.

Air Dryer

Household dehumidifiers do not belong to the ventilation system, but can optionally be operated indoors. That is, the dehumidifier will provide an optimal level of humidity, while ventilation will refresh the exhaust air.

The use of household dehumidifiers allows you to solve the problem of condensation on the surface of the walls. As a result, the likelihood of mold growth is reduced even with insufficient ventilation.

Performance calculation

The norms of SNiP regulate two parameters of ventilation systems:

intensity of air exchange - the volume of transported air;
air exchange rate - the number of exhaust air discharge cycles.

For a bathroom, the average multiplicity is 4-8 cycles. The intensity of air exchange for a separate bathroom is indicated within 25 m³ per hour. For a combined bathroom, this parameter is twice as large.

The given parameters refer primarily to the fan. The intensity of air exchange is determined by the power of the fan.

The frequency of operation of equipment in low-cost forced-type systems is determined manually. That is, you yourself will have to turn on the fan the required number of times for a given period of time. In more advanced systems, the price of which will be higher, along with a fan, a special power unit is used to automate the removal of air.

The device of a passive supply and exhaust system

Immediately, I note that for the effective functioning of natural ventilation, interior doors must be installed as in the proposed scheme.

Due to the gap in the lower part of the canvas, intensive air exchange becomes possible between the ventilation throughout the house and the hood in the bathroom. By the way, most modern interior doors are designed with effective air exchange in mind, and therefore are installed with a gap at the threshold.

Suppose the interior doors in the house are installed correctly, which means you can proceed with the installation of the hood. The hood is installed in the upper part of the wall, below the ceiling line by 10-15 cm.

Installation instructions for the hood are as follows:

Marking is carried out on the external wall of a private house - a circle is drawn, the perimeter of which is 5 mm larger than the perimeter of the air duct, which is supposed to be used to pass the wall;
Along the marked perimeter, the wall is drilled through;

If the wall is concrete, it will be correct to order diamond cutting of concrete. Although the price of the service is high, the hole will have perfectly smooth edges and the work will be done quickly. If the wall is brick, you can drill yourself, making through holes in the wall along the perimeter of the marked circle. After the holes are drilled, it remains to knock out everything superfluous from the circle.

We sweep dust out of the hole and moisten the resulting opening with water;

We insert a pre-prepared air duct into the hole and set it level, so that the outer end of the pipe is located below the one inside;

The inclination of the air duct when passing through the wall is mandatory in order to ensure the natural flow of condensate to the outside.

In the gap between the edge of the hole and the pipe, we apply mounting foam;
From the inside, a grate is attached to the end of the pipe;
From the outside, a tee is put on the pipe with one branch up and the other down;

We put a plug on the lower outlet, drilling a through hole with a diameter of 10 mm in it;

Condensate will drain through this hole in the cold season. If the drain freezes in winter, you will need to dismantle the plug and clean the drain.

From the top branch of the tee we lead the pipe up, as shown in this diagram;
In the upper part of the pipe, the hole is covered with a chimney end - a raincoat.

After the installation of ventilation is completed, you will receive a productive system that will provide the bathroom with fresh air. The only drawback of this solution is the likelihood of a draft in the path of air flows.

By the way, in this diagram you can see how hoods from the bathroom and from the kitchen are connected to the same pipe at the same time without any damage to air exchange.

Forced exhaust system device

On the diagram you can see an effective system of forced selection of warm moist air throughout the house. For these purposes, air ducts connected to a powerful fan are installed in the bathroom and in the kitchen.

The selection of exhaust air is carried out through air ducts located in the ceiling above those areas of the room in which the greatest accumulation of moist air is likely.

As in the natural scheme for removing exhaust air, the doors in the lower part of the opening must have a gap so that normal air exchange is ensured due to the circulating flows.

How to check ventilation efficiency

If the air flow feels like a draft, then you should not worry about air exchange - it is more than sufficient.

In other cases, a lit match or a thin sheet of paper is brought to the hood. By the fluctuation of paper or fire, you will accurately determine how efficiently the hood works.

By the way, air ducts, especially if they are old, tend to become clogged. Therefore, the check described above should be carried out annually. If the intensity of air circulation has weakened, it's time to inspect the duct and clean it.

Conclusion

Now you know what ventilation is in the bathroom and toilet, and how to do it yourself. I recommend watching the video in this article. I am sure that if you wish, you can use the proposed instructions and make the air in the bathroom fresher. You can ask questions on the topic in the comments.

A bathroom is a place where water flows every now and then, a bathtub fills up, a hot shower soars, wet laundry dries. Therefore, ventilation here should work not only no worse, but even better than in any other room. Otherwise, the whole house will “suffer”.

Here are 10 facts about bathroom ventilation:

Fact 1: Mold, tile decay and rust are often the result of poor ventilation.

The bathroom is the most damp and humid, so it is necessary that the ventilation here works properly. Otherwise, avoid:

Musty air, unpleasant odors, condensation and, as a result, the occurrence of fungus, mold (unsafe for human health),
- the appearance of rust on metal surfaces,
- destruction of finishing materials (including darkening and cracking of inter-tile grout, and then chipping off of the tile itself),
- "swelling" of furniture coverings (even from moisture resistant materials).

If you notice mold, do not rush to buy dehumidifiers or special anti-fungal coatings. First, check the ventilation!

Fact 2. You can't block the vent in the bathroom!

This is common knowledge and undeniable. Complete overlap of the exhaust ducts is justified only if forced supply and exhaust ventilation is installed in the house or apartment.

Fact 3. Condensation on mirrors and walls is the first sign of poor ventilation.

If, after water procedures, the mirrors in the bathroom “fog”, and droplets of moisture remain on the walls for a long time, this is the first sign that there are problems with the exhaust or inflow.

Do you open the doors and the condensation quickly disappears? So the vent is working properly. Widen the gap between the door leaf and the floor, order special doors with ventilation holes, or just leave the bathroom entrance open more often to ensure air flow.

Humidity persists even with the doors wide open? Natural ventilation must be checked.

Fact 4. You can find out if the hood works by experimenting with a napkin. At the same time, checking natural ventilation in the summer is pointless.

There is a common way to check ventilation. We open the door to the bathroom and bring a napkin to the ventilation grill. If it is attracted, the ventilation works. If not, open all windows and doors and try again. Is the napkin drawn in? So the problem is with insufficient inflow (for sure, you have sealed plastic windows installed).

Does the napkin fall even with the windows open? Extraction problems. Perhaps the mine is clogged, it is worth contacting the management company.

Fact 5. The cause of poor draft can be exhaust devices installed on the lower floors.

Another reason that the air is not drawn out of the apartment may be fans or exhaust devices installed at the neighbors below. The fast flow in the ventilation shaft, created by forced devices, prevents natural ventilation from other apartments.

In addition, on the upper floors, due to the pressure difference, ventilation works worse without any interference than on the lower ones.

In this case, the exhaust fan is able to adjust the hood. But under one condition, which is described below.

Fact 6. Neither an exhaust duct nor a fan will provide full ventilation without an inflow.

For intensive air exchange, a balanced amount of both supply air and exhaust air is required. Therefore, we conduct the experiment with a napkin with open doors and windows!

The reason for insufficient inflow is often plastic double-glazed windows, sealed front doors, and insulated walls. They block the flow of fresh air. And the exhaust moist air from the bathroom is not drawn out, even with a working hood or when an exhaust fan is installed.

In order to establish the work of natural ventilation or to help forced ventilation, it is necessary to install in the living rooms supply devices .

Fact 7. A warm floor without ventilation will not get rid of the fungus in the bathroom.

Sometimes, in order to get rid of high humidity and mold in the bathroom, the owners install underfloor heating and change heated towel rails.

This can speed up the process of drying moisture and renewing air masses in the cold season. However, it will not help to completely get rid of the fungus in case of problems with ventilation.

Productivity is calculated according to the following formula: the volume of the room (length, width and height), multiplied by the air exchange rate (for a bathroom from about 4 to 8). For example, for a bathroom with an area of 2x2.5 m and a ceiling height of 2.7 m, the volume of the room is 13.5 cubic meters. We multiply by 4 and by 8. Find out the minimum and maximum power of the exhaust fan (54-108 cubic meters / h).

At the same time, according to SNIP, air exchange in the bathroom or toilet should be at least 25 m3 / h, in a combined bathroom - up to 50 m3 / h.

Fact 9. When installing an exhaust fan, it is necessary to place it as far as possible from the entrance and above.

It is better to install a fan (or diffusers of general ventilation) before finishing work,

to hide the wiring. Place - as high as possible, under the ceiling (or on the ceiling), ideally - on the opposite wall from the entrance, so that the supply air has time to pass through the entire room before entering the exhaust hood.

Fact 10. A non-return valve without proper ventilation can exacerbate the situation.

The non-return valve is installed in the ventilation duct, prevents the appearance of reverse draft (air movement from the street into the room), the ingress of odors, pollution, cold. But its installation is justified only if there is a working hood and an established inflow. Otherwise, the check valve will simply block the channel (the cross section will become even smaller, the air will not be able to be drawn out)!

So, in order to establish ventilation in the bathroom, you must:

- arrange flow
- adjust the hood,
- and ensure the free movement of air between rooms.

All this can be done either on your own (using appropriate ventilation equipment), or by ordering work from specialists.

Do you have any questions? Call. Our company performs ventilation design, supply of devices and components, installation. We work in Yekaterinburg and Chelyabinsk. We provide warranties for both labor and equipment.