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The construction of a private house implies not only its interior decoration, but also the cladding of the outer part, that is, the facade. The most popular solution today is siding, that is, panels of different materials with a lock and an edge. It has a number of valuable advantages, excellent performance and attractive appearance. Siding can be smooth and glossy, imitate the structure of wood or stone, so it will fit perfectly into any landscape. The most important thing is to choose the right material and lay it according to all the rules.

Depending on the material from which the siding is made, it can be wood, polyvinyl chloride (vinyl), acrylic, fiber cement or metal (steel, zinc, aluminum). All types of finishes differ in cost, durability, resistance to all kinds of damage and other characteristics.

	Type of siding	Flaws
	It can reproduce any texture, looks effective, has a wide range of colors. Sheathing from this type of siding is resistant to negative factors (it can be operated at temperatures from -50 to +50), it is lightweight and has an affordable price.	At high humidity and a sharp temperature drop, it can be deformed, is afraid of mechanical damage, has a relatively short service life
	Resistance to fading in the sun and high temperatures (up to +85 degrees), excellent strength characteristics, resistance to chemicals, does not have the ability to ignite	High price
	The material is strong and durable, resistant to temperature changes, does not contribute to the reproduction of fungal spores and harmful microorganisms	Low sound insulation, the possibility of delamination of the coating from the metal base in the places of the cut. Aluminum siding is subject to mechanical damage, after which it is no longer possible to restore its original appearance.
	High environmental friendliness, thermal insulation, a variety of textures and patterns on the cut	Insufficient strength, fragility, ability to ignite and deform, difficult to maintain, high cost
	The material is able to replace natural stone, as it is made from cement, water, sand and cellulose. Resistant to weathering, not subject to corrosion, rot, does not contribute to the development of fungus and mold, easy to operate	High price, difficulty in buying (practically not common in Russia)

When it comes to color solutions, pastel materials are the most common - they are much cheaper than bright siding (this is due to the addition of expensive components that prevent the finish from fading in the sun).

Vinyl material should be mentioned separately, as it is considered the most practical and inexpensive option for finishing the facade of any building. It is made of PVC panels and is presented in a large assortment in any specialized store or on the construction market. In addition, vinyl panels are quite easy to install, so all the work can be done independently.

Siding prices

Varieties and elements of siding

In order not to make a mistake when choosing and installing siding, you need to understand the varieties and additional elements of the material. Depending on the design characteristics and installation features, siding is divided into several types.

Horizontal and vertical siding

Vinyl panels can be horizontal or vertical. The second type is less familiar to the domestic consumer, since in Russia horizontal panels are more often used for finishing buildings.

To choose the right type of material, you should consider some design differences between horizontal and vertical siding.

1. Different geometry and configuration of elements. Theoretically, vertical siding can be mounted horizontally, but without the appropriate experience and knowledge, it is quite difficult to do this - as a result, the installation may be incorrect, which will lead to water leakage and other troubles.
2. No additional perforation. There are perforations at the bottom of the horizontal panels, while the vertical ones do not.

Otherwise, these types of siding practically do not differ from each other, since they are made from the same material, and also require certain rules to be followed during installation.

Wall panels

This type of material is intended for facing vertical surfaces and, in turn, is divided into several types:

The main difference between a ship board and a Christmas tree is the presence of a characteristic break in the center of the panel, with the first type being the most common in Europe and Russia, and the second in the USA and Canada. Siding types are marked with Latin letters T (triple herringbone), D (double) and S (single). After the letter designation comes a number that indicates the width of the panel - for example, the marking S 4.5 indicates a single herringbone panel with a bend thickness of 4.5 inches (approximately 114 mm).

Block house prices

Block house

Plinth siding is a material used to cover the underside of a building. They are twice as thick as conventional cladding panels, due to which they are distinguished by increased strength, are not subject to deformation and all kinds of damage. At the same time, the mass of the panels is very small, that is, for their installation it is not necessary to further strengthen the foundation.

Soffit

Soffit is essentially a ceiling siding that is used to cover the protruding part of the roof and finish ceilings in attics and attics. Such panels not only give the building a perfect and finished look, but also protect the space under the roof from precipitation, insects, etc. Structurally, they are divided into two- and three-lane, and in addition, they are perforated, mixed and non-perforated.

Soffit prices

Additional elements

In order for siding to look attractive, it is necessary to use not only panels, but also profiles and accessories that give it a complete look.

These add-on elements include:

• the starting profile is used to install the first row of panels, from which the installation work begins;
• finishing profile for row fastenings under the roof;
• the outer corner and the inner corner close the edges of the facing panels laid on the outer and inner corners of the building;
• J-bevel is used for facing the top of the facade and gives it a finished appearance;
• The J-profile is an auxiliary accessory used in conjunction with the J-bevel;
• H-profile connects the panels in the middle of the wall, closes their edges and is used to implement all kinds of design solutions;
• molding is a cross between a finish and a J-profile, and is necessary for attaching vertical skin at the transition points to spotlights;
• near-window profile is used for facing window and door openings;
• ebb acts as a drainage eaves;
• the platband is necessary for decorative finishing of door and window openings;
• the slope is an auxiliary profile used in combination with platbands;
• the edging profile provides cover for joints and joints between panels, and can also replace the start profile or vertical panels.

It should be noted that all of the above fittings for siding panels may differ in width, length and configuration, and these characteristics are unique not only for the products of an individual manufacturer, but also for each line of facing material.

Installation of siding panels is a fairly simple, but painstaking and time-consuming task that requires not only accuracy and accuracy, but also strict adherence to installation rules.

General rules

The technology and sequence of installation of siding panels depends on the characteristics of the material and surface, but there are several general points that should be remembered when performing work.

1. Siding can be installed in three ways: on an aluminum surface, directly on the facade and on the crate. The first method has one serious drawback - a high price, and it is possible to mount siding directly on the walls of a building only in cases where they are made of wood and have a fairly flat surface. The easiest way to install panels is to pre-clad the facade with a crate, which will not only make the cladding smooth and neat, but also speed up the work.

   

2. In the case of log buildings, all cladding work is carried out only when the structure has completely shrunk.
3. Vinyl panels are recommended to be fixed exclusively to factory holes - the material should not be punched, as this may adversely affect its service life.

   

4. Wooden elements are fastened with galvanized hardware, otherwise the tree will quickly begin to rot.
5. It is better for beginners to start installation from the back of the facade, so that by the time they move to the front, the person has already developed certain experience and skills.
6. Installation of siding panels is carried out from the rear corner with an overlap in rows from top to bottom, which makes the joints between them less noticeable.
7. When performing work, it is necessary to control the evenness of every third installed row, otherwise all the others will also be skewed.

   

8. A very important point is that under the influence of temperature, the panels can expand and contract - if the fixing force is incorrectly calculated, the panels can subsequently deform.
9. Fasteners are hammered exclusively into the center of the factory hole. If this is not possible, carefully widen the hole with a perforator (do not drive nails into the end of the hole, otherwise the panel may be seriously damaged).

   

10. Siding elements do not need to be nailed tightly - they should move slightly from side to side.

    

    Mistake 2. Installers screw the screws all the way into the perforation, this cannot be done

11. When attaching the panel to the frame, there is no need to push it up or down: the force is applied from the bottom up until the connection of the upper element snaps into the lock of the lower one.
12. At the joints of the facing panels with additional elements, a gap of 6-12 mm thick should be left. If work is carried out at low temperatures, the gap width should be at least 10-12 mm.

    

    

13. Fasteners should be driven in as evenly and straight as possible so that the panels do not deform or warp.
14. If a crack appears on the panel, it is better to replace it with another one, as the crack will expand over time.

The process of installing siding panels consists of several stages, and they must be performed in a certain sequence - only in this case the result will fully meet expectations.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Step by step instructions for installing siding

Installation of siding begins with the calculation of the required amount of material. To do this, you can use special calculators on construction sites or a simple formula. The building should be divided into simple geometric shapes, their areas measured and summed up the resulting figures. In addition, it is necessary to draw up a detailed scheme of the building cladding, which will indicate all the necessary profiles and accessories, as well as their location. It should be remembered that approximately 10% of the total volume of material will go to fitting and trimming, and if the work is done for the first time, some elements may be damaged.

After buying siding, you can proceed to the main stages of work, and the first of them is the preparation of improvised tools and materials.

Stage one. Preparation of tools and materials

Siding panels for installation and materials for the manufacture of battens must be absolutely intact, without cracks, chips or flaws. If the work is planned to be carried out in the winter, the siding should be allowed to “lie down” on the street at a temperature of at least 15 degrees.

In addition, it will be necessary to prepare fasteners (self-tapping screws, nails, staples), which will enter the material by at least 20 mm, and a number of tools necessary for facing the building.

1. Electric saw. To speed up the cutting of siding, it is best to use an electric saw (hand or stationary), and the blade should be set to reverse (when working with wood, the tool is used as usual). If the installation is carried out in a cold season, you need to move the blade as slowly as possible.
2. Scissors for cutting metal. Polyvinyl chloride and other materials from which siding panels are made (especially polyvinyl chloride) are quite simple to process, and with the help of such a tool you can easily give the panels the desired shape.
3. Perforator. Required for drilling holes for fasteners.
4. Punch. It is used for punching holes (so-called hooks) on the sides of panels when installing siding in under a roof or under openings.
5. Siding removal tool. It happens that when working with panels it is necessary to dismantle one or more of them, so it is better to get the right tool in advance, something like a hook.

In addition to all of the above, to perform the work, you should prepare a hammer, a jigsaw, a level, a tape measure and a piece of chalk, and it is better to protect your eyes with special glasses.

Stage two. Surface preparation

High-quality wall preparation is a guarantee that the siding sheathing will look neat and attractive. It is best to mount the panels on top of the waterproofing material (it is not necessary to lay waterproofing, but experts recommend protecting all places where the siding will come into contact with building walls and openings). Before starting work, it is necessary to dismantle the old finish from the surface, as well as all elements that may interfere with installation: shutters, gutters, etc., and clean the surface of the walls from dirt and dust.

Stage three. Manufacturing of crates

Before installing the battens, you should check the reliability of all elements of the building: for example, replace all loose and broken boards. To build a frame for siding, dry and straight bars of appropriate sizes (usually 4x6 cm) are taken without signs of rot, stains or deformations, and they should be pre-treated with antiseptics and fire retardants (substances that prevent fire). A more reliable, but rather expensive solution is a galvanized profile, which is mounted in the same way as a wooden frame.

If horizontal siding is used for cladding, frame guides are mounted vertically, and vice versa. The distance between them should be 30-40 cm (in regions with difficult weather conditions - about 20 cm). Additional rails are installed around door and window openings, at the bottom and top of the façade, as well as where additional accessories (for example, lanterns) will hang.

All parts must be mounted evenly, from time to time checking their level. You can fasten the elements of the crate in any way, but ordinary nails are the best option. If the frame is attached to concrete or brick, holes should be made in the walls with a perforator. Places where the siding will come into contact with building materials should be securely sealed to protect them from moisture and frost.

Stage four. Panel mounting

The most important stage of building cladding is the installation of panels on the crate. It should be carried out as accurately and accurately as possible, in compliance with the rules listed above. The actual algorithm for mounting siding panels is as follows.

Step 1. Determine the point from which the installation will begin. To do this, find a point in the lower frame guide, step back 50 mm from it, put a mark and slightly screw in the self-tapping screw. Consistently move along the perimeter of the building, continuing to mark and screw in the screws. They also need to be screwed into the corners of the building.

Step 2 Stretch the twine between the corner marks, mark on the laths of the lathing the places where the corner profiles will be installed (it is from them that the installation begins). Attach a profile to the corner of the frame and put marks along the edges with chalk, then attach it to the crate. The rest of the corner profiles, external and internal, are fastened in the same way, and the fastening must begin from the top hole, from top to bottom.

Step 3 After the corner elements are installed, you can proceed to the installation of accessories on window and door openings: platbands, ebbs and finishing plates.

Step 4 Moving along the perimeter of the rope, make a 6 mm indent from the edge of the corner profile and attach the start profile, and then the first start panel. If it is attached correctly, the rest of the siding will also lie as it should. Be sure to leave a centimeter gap between the elements to compensate for the possible temperature deformation of the vinyl. The panels should not be fastened too tightly - there should be a gap of at least 1 mm between the head of the fastener and the surface of the material. Also, do not pull the panel up, otherwise it may crack or deform.

Step 5 After attaching the accessories, the installation of the facing panels is carried out, which is carried out from the bottom to the top, starting from the starting ones. The panel is inserted into the first in a row and mounted to the frame with hardware, and they need to be driven in, starting from the center and moving towards the sides. According to the height of the panels, they should be installed on top of each other: the lower lock of the higher element enters the lock connection of the lower one. Panels can be assembled into sections of arbitrary height and width, depending on the design decision. If the panel closes the opening of a window or door, it is necessary to cut off the excess piece so that it fits between the casing or other accessory.

Step 6 The last top row is installed only after the finish line. It is necessary to nail close to the roof, measure the distance between its lower part and the lock of the panel of the penultimate row. Subtract 1-2 mm from the received figures for the gap. Take the whole panel, mark it so that it fits between the J-profile and the bottom panel, cut off the upper part along with the lock.

Step 7 On the top of the prepared panel, create so-called hooks every 20 cm - make small cuts and bend them to the front side. Insert the trimmed part into the bottom panel and snap it into the locking joint with a slight movement.

In the photo - installation of the finishing bar

Step 8 The final step is facing the gables of the roof. The work is carried out as follows: the J-profile is fastened along the corner of the gable (if more than one element is required, the second must be fastened with an overlap of 2 cm).

Step 9 Measure the angle of the roof and cut the siding accordingly. Most likely, the last panel will have to be nailed with a fastener. This is the only case when it is allowed to drive a nail or screw a self-tapping screw right through the panel.

On this, the installation of siding panels can be considered complete. If everything was done as it should be, the result of the work will be an aesthetic, reliable and durable cladding.

It should be noted that vertical siding is mounted in a similar way. The only difference is that the crate for its installation should not be vertical, but horizontal.

Removing damaged panels

If the panel has been damaged and a new one needs to be put in its place, the work is carried out as follows.

1. Insert a dismantling hook between two panels: the damaged one and the one above.
2. Pry the lock and pull the tool down along the edge to release the damaged panel.
3. Pull out the fasteners with a nail puller - if they sit too tight, you can simply hammer them into the frame elements.
4. Remove the panel, put a new one in its place and secure with hardware.
5. Using the same hook, slide the top panel onto the lock when laid down, and snap it into place.

Siding panel care

Siding panel cladding is much easier to maintain than other cladding. It needs to be washed from time to time with a hose, and to remove old stains, use a soft brush or cloth. In order not to damage the material, do not use abrasive household products and hard improvised means. Also, do not clean siding with chlorine bleaches, organic solvents, products that contain acetone, or are used to polish furniture. Contaminants from its surface are well removed with a solution of water with washing powder, as well as any water-based cleaners. If you need to remove chewing gum from the panel, you can use a solution of water and vinegar.

Installation of metal siding under a log: step by step instructions Accessories for siding

How to make a crate for siding with your own hands

Among the variety of materials for finishing the external walls of the house, siding stands out favorably. It is made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) with the addition of color pigments, additives and a plasticizer. Some consumers are at a loss as to what to choose when store catalogs are filled with photos of vinyl siding.

What to look for and how to choose a quality product? To begin with, you should learn about the pros and cons of this finishing material, then figure out how to choose the best product and, finally, get an idea about the installation features.

Advantages and disadvantages of siding

Vinyl siding is able to give a residential building an excellent appearance, it also protects the building from the negative influence of environmental factors.

Among the main advantages of the material are the following:

• light weight;
• surface resistance to aggressive effects (at a minimum concentration of even acids and alkalis);
• harmlessness to humans;
• ease of cleaning;
• significant operating temperature range (from -50 to +50°С);
• the possibility of imitation of various kinds of natural materials;
• long service life (with proper care and proper installation);
• low cost.

In addition to the positive features, siding also has some disadvantages:

• the panel expands at high temperatures (deformation occurs by 2-3 mm, in case of improper installation, this will lead to surface curvature);
• poor resistance to mechanical stress (impact provokes the appearance of cracks).

Types of vinyl siding

The building and finishing materials market offers basement, wall and auxiliary siding. The latter is used to decorate the edges, simplify the starting and finishing fixing of the panels.

The following additional elements are produced: start and finish strips (allow you to start and finish fastening the siding to the wall), external and internal corners, H-profile (for decorating panel joints), J-profile (for decorating panel ends), drain and window trims, wind profile.

Siding for the plinth is considered the most durable, the thickness can reach up to 3 mm. Externally, siding, as a rule, imitates brick or masonry, which is optimal in terms of decorating the facade of the house.

Since basement siding is more susceptible to damage than others, it is made from high-quality and sustainable materials. Wall panels have a thickness of no more than 1-2 mm.

There are three forms of bending siding panels: in the form of a herringbone, a shipboard and a log. Block house - this is another name for siding under a log.

American manufacturers work with a herringbone shape, in Europe a ship board is used. The formation of "boards" in the panel depends on the number of its bends. The surface of the panel resembles one board, two or three, separated by a recess.

Soffits are vertical panels, they are most often used for roof hemming. The perforation on the surface of the spotlights serves for ventilation.

Panels can be embossed or smooth texture. More popular is embossed, imitating natural stone, masonry brick or a cut of wood.

The size of vinyl siding varies by manufacturer. The length numbers can be as follows: 3.81 m, 3.66 m, 3.39 m and 3 m. The panels are interconnected, making it possible to obtain any length.

The width is also different for different manufacturers: 0.179 m, 0.232 m, 0.24 m, 0.25 m and the largest panel at 179.62 mm and 232 mm. Wider panels - 240 and 255.75 mm. There is also a width of 0.305 m.

Superior quality siding features

There are several distinguishing features of the best quality vinyl siding: paint through, consistency of thickness, the presence of a hurricane lock, certification, warranty card. Each of them needs to be considered.

High-quality panels should be painted uniformly, and on both sides. If the back of the panel is a different color from the front, then the siding has been surface painted. The service life of such panels is short, most likely they will quickly burn out in the sun.

The thickness of the panels must be constant. In order to check this, it is worth looking at the panel from the end - in the case of high-quality material, the siding will be uniform along its entire length.

In the upper position of the panels there should be a special bend, or rather a lock connection. This lock provides reliable fastening and structural stability under strong wind loads.

Consultants in the sales department must provide, upon request, a quality certificate for the goods. In the absence of it, we are talking about poor-quality siding. The best quality goods are always accompanied by certificates.

Vinyl siding produced abroad has a quality guarantee, and a warranty card must be issued to every buyer in our country. This also applies to domestic products.

Installation of siding panels

To install vinyl siding, you must first prepare the tools: a building level, a tape measure, a grinder or a jigsaw, metal shears, an iron corner, a hammer, an angle, a screwdriver or a screwdriver. Panels can be cut with a grinder, small parts with metal scissors. This must be done carefully, without effort, so as not to damage the panel.

Galvanized self-tapping screws are suitable as fasteners. In the mounting hole on the panel, the self-tapping screw is placed in the center and not completely screwed in, leaving a gap of at least 1 mm. This is necessary for the free movement of the siding when changing temperatures.

The walls of the house on which the crate will be attached must be even in all planes. Siding will last longer if it is laid on an insulating coating.

The crate is made of edged boards or wooden bars, the step of its fastening is 30-40 cm.

After installing the crate around the perimeter of the house, a horizontal line is drawn along the level, along which the top of the starting bar will be located. Then the elements of the corners are mounted. Here, the fastening is carried out at the top of the perforation so that the elements can hang on the screws.

When mounting the starting bar, make sure that it is 6 mm away from the corner, and there is a gap of 12.5 mm between its ends. Window and door openings are lined with special profiles.

Now comes the stage of fixing the siding itself. The first strip is inserted into the starting bar and, taking into account the gap, is screwed to the crate. If after fastening the strip moves freely, then the installation is done correctly.

The entry of panels into additional elements must be made with a gap. When work is carried out at low temperatures (which is undesirable), the gap must be increased by 2 times. The installation is completed with a finishing bar or J-profile.

Sheathing with vinyl siding of a private house allows you to protect the walls from environmental influences and give it a unique look. However, the right choice and installation is not an easy task, requiring certain knowledge and skills.

The price of the finishing material is decisive here, but the buyer should pay attention to many other nuances.

Photo of vinyl siding

Siding is famous for being easy and cheap to install. With proper installation of the panels, it will last for several decades, not being afraid of sudden changes in temperature, wind, or precipitation.

The duration of finishing work, their cost and quality directly depend on the skills of the installer. If you already have a little experience in construction, then sheathing your house with siding will not seem like too much of a task.

In this article, we will step by step analyze how to sheathe a house with siding with our own hands, and also tell you what materials and tools you will need for this.

Finishing the house with siding: preparatory work

Preparation for facing the house with siding begins with cleaning the exterior walls. First of all, all protruding parts that will interfere with the installation of panels are removed: drains, brackets, ebbs and shutters on windows, trim on doors - everything that protrudes from the flat surface of the walls.

Private houses made of stone and brick are cleaned of old plaster, covering all the cracks with cement mortar or mounting foam. Wooden houses are cleaned of dirt and mold, and then covered with a layer of antiseptic.

Finishing a house with siding involves an accurate calculation of the required amount of materials. Therefore, it is necessary to measure the width and height of the walls in advance, then subtract the total area of ​​​​windows and doors from their total area. You also need to calculate the perimeter of the house and all window and door openings, so the total length of the connecting structures will become clear.

Formula for calculating materials: (the area of ​​all the walls of the house − the area of ​​windows and doors) ÷ the area of ​​one panel × 1.10

Only the useful area of ​​the siding panel is taken into account, that is, without the upper fixing part. 1.10 in the formula is a 10% margin of material, which usually goes to marriage with inaccurate cutting and final fitting.

It is most convenient to use a schematic plan of the house - you can use it to calculate the required number of panels one by one, and you will immediately see where the full-length panels will go, and where cutting will be required. Any siding manufacturer will help you with the calculations for free. This can be done in advance in the Alta Calculator and Alta Planner online services.

Tools and materials

For quick and easy do-it-yourself siding installation, you practically do not need a special tool - it is enough that any private house already has it.

1. Roulette, square and metal ruler - for measurements.
2. Construction level of at least 120 cm - to check the accuracy of the installation of the crate vertically and the accuracy of laying the siding panels horizontally.
3. Electric drill, screwdriver or screwdriver - for fasteners.
4. A cutter knife, electric jigsaw, grinder or hacksaw (with small and sharp teeth) - any of these tools will be needed to trim the panels. It is better not to use a hacksaw when installing siding in the cold season, because the panels may crack. The grinder should only work at low speeds: at a high speed of rotation of its disk, the material of the panels at the cut site will melt.
5. A siding punch, also known as a punch, is used to make hooks to secure the siding to the finish plank.

The punch is the only siding installation tool that you have to buy specifically. Photo #1.

Connecting structures. Siding panels are not the only structural element that will be required during installation. Between themselves, they are connected by special strips: starting, connecting, finishing, etc. Separate structures are used when facing window and door openings, as well as building corners. The use of additional structures allows you to sheathe a house of any design with siding.

Plastic structures used in the installation of siding. Photo #2.

Areas of application of connecting elements. Photo #3.

Insulation. A private country house, used only in spring and summer, in most cases does not need additional insulation. The house in which they live all year round is usually insulated with mineral wool - it is laid outside the building, in the cells formed between the ceilings of the crate.

The scheme of the crate and laying insulation. Photo #4.

The crate is installed on the entire surface of the facade. First of all, it is mounted along the side surfaces of the building, corners, windows, doorways and other ledges. The standard distance between floors is 40 cm. But the heavier the panels, the less the step of the crate needs to be done. A denser crate should be on houses that stand in the zone of strong winds and possible hurricanes.

Windows and doors are surrounded by a crate along the entire perimeter - a reinforced contour is created, on which window and door trims are attached. Photo #5.

As a crate on log houses, simple wooden slats are usually used. Their main disadvantage is the high probability of curvature. Therefore, it is important to choose only dry straight slats without knots, soak them thoroughly with an antiseptic and install only in dry weather.

Another option is galvanized profiles. They are more versatile, but when mounted in extreme heat, they can expand. When it gets colder, the siding trim installed on such profiles is deformed.

The main advantage of polymer profiles is the quick and accurate installation of siding panels on them. Photo #6.

How to properly install panels

During the entire preparatory work, it is better to store siding panels in a covered dry room, protected from direct sunlight, in a horizontal position on a flat surface, at a temperature of -30 to +50 °C.

Fastener sequence. Siding panels are mounted on previously installed connecting structures: starting, connecting and corner strips. The lining starts from bottom to top from left to right. First, the starting bar is attached. It must be mounted absolutely horizontally: the evenness of laying all subsequent layers depends on this.

The first front panel is inserted into the starting bar and slightly pulled up until it clicks into place. Then the panel is screwed to the crate through special mounting holes: the first screw is screwed in the middle of the siding panel to avoid its deformation in the future. When screwing in the screws, the panel must not be pulled up - it must hang freely under its own weight.

After fixing the first siding panel, the next one is installed on it using exactly the same technology. In order to clad the facade evenly and accurately, it is recommended to assemble the panels simultaneously around the entire perimeter of the house - in a circle, visually monitoring the evenness of the laying and checking the horizontalness of each third layer of panels with a building level. So there will be less waste during installation - you can immediately see where you can use the cut pieces.

The finish strip is attached after the last layer of siding panels has been installed. In the very top panel, you need to make hooks - this will require a punch. Then these hooks snap into the finish bar retainer.

thermal expansion gap. The main rule of installation is that siding and accessories should move freely and not rest against anything. Due to the natural temperature difference throughout the year, siding is subject to expansion and contraction. Therefore, with rigid fixation to the crate, it deforms and goes in waves.

This is how errors look when calculating clearances for thermal expansion. Photo number 7.

Be sure to leave 5–8 mm free between the siding panel and the side fastener. After mounting the panel, it should move freely to the left and right, but not dangle.

Fasteners. It is most convenient to fasten the siding to the crate with galvanized self-tapping screws with a sharp tip and a wide hat. They are not subject to corrosion and over time will not leave unpleasant rusty smudges on the facade.

There must be a distance of 1.5 mm between the screw head and the panel. The easiest way is to tighten the screw completely, and then loosen it by one turn. Photo #8.

The screws are screwed exactly in the middle of the mounting holes so that the panels can move. Photo #9.

Panel extensions. Often the length of the building is longer than the siding panel. In such cases, a connecting bar is used. In this case, panels of standard length have to be cut. When calculating their length, it is important to remember the temperature gaps.

Installation of siding panels with a connecting strip (left) and lengthening the panels with an overlap (right). Photo #10.

The second way to lengthen the panels is overlapping. So that the junctions are not conspicuous, the joints of the following layers are made with an offset. But still, after a few years, due to thermal expansion between the overlapped panels, gaps will appear and the joints will become noticeable.

Facing the house with siding - video

Even more information on how to properly and quickly sheathe a house with siding with your own hands, in the instructions of the Alta-profile company and on video.

Each owner, when facing a private house or cottage, hopes that his building will look presentable, compare favorably with others and last for many years. But it is on the materials used for outdoor finishing work that the maximum aggressive environmental impact is exerted, so it is very important to use the right and high-quality product. Siding has gained wide popularity in the market in this segment, according to the opinions of users and builders, it is one of the best options designed to bring a wide variety of ideas to life.

Types of siding

If the owner decided to sheathe the house with siding, first of all he needs to decide on the type of material. Often this becomes a difficult task, since the product is presented on the market in a huge assortment.

The main and most commonly used are:

• vinyl;
• wood;
• cement;
• ceramic;
• metal;
• basement.

Let's consider these types in more detail.

Vinyl

Vinyl siding is especially often used in facing works. This is due to the merits of the material. The panels are quite light, while they have a smooth texture. A wide color palette allows even the most demanding customers to make a well-considered choice. Siding can be made in one color, and options are also made that imitate natural materials.

In addition, such panels have a fairly reasonable price. Due to the fact that the siding is lightweight, there are no problems with its installation, while manufacturers claim a product life of up to 50 years.

Wood

For those consumers who value natural materials, wooden siding is offered. A few years ago, he occupied a leading position in the market, making room a little only with the introduction of more modern panels.

The material is environmentally friendly and made from natural raw materials, due to this, the price of such panels is quite high. At the same time, the service life of the product is rather short, since it is not able to withstand adverse environmental factors. In addition, the panels require special care, they must be periodically treated with protective compounds, as well as coated with paints and varnishes to maintain a spectacular appearance.

cement

This type of panels is not very common when carrying out finishing work; it incorporates cellulose and concrete. Due to this, the strength of the material is very high. This product perfectly withstands even serious temperature changes, without cracking or deforming, it is not affected by various weather conditions.

Cement siding does not need to be processed, its indisputable plus is the ability to correct small defects on the spot, when it does not require dismantling the structure. In addition, the material is fire-resistant, and the facade of the building lined with it will look expensive and stylish. Among the minuses, one can note the high price not only for the product itself, but also for its installation.

Ceramic

Ceramic siding is not very popular when facing building facades. This is due to the fact that the panels are quite expensive, and at the same time, their installation is complex and requires the involvement of specialists. The properties are not inferior to cement siding, it has excellent characteristics.

First of all, it is impossible not to note the fire resistance of materials. They are resistant to ultraviolet rays, due to which they retain an excellent appearance for a long time. The panels can self-clean, so they do not require special care and even simple washing.

The material is very durable, it can withstand severe mechanical stress, so it is extremely difficult to cause any damage. Due to this, it is often used in seismically unstable areas. At the same time, it has such disadvantages as the very high price of the product, its significant weight, as well as the complexity of installation.

Metal

Such panels are also very popular with consumers; they are used both by the owners of private houses and cottages for facing their properties, and by enterprises and organizations. The materials of manufacture are steel, aluminum and zinc. This siding is highly durable, in addition, it perfectly imitates natural materials. By visual inspection, it is very difficult to find differences.

If the metal panels imitate wood, they are smooth or look rounded, like real logs. However, compared to natural materials, they are easier to maintain. Metal siding does not require renovation of paint and varnish materials, as well as treatment with protective agents, in addition, it has an affordable price.

An interesting design solution can be brick-like and stone-like siding. Depending on the idea, they can have both a vertical and a horizontal pattern. Are applied both to finishing of a socle, and to full facing of buildings. Gives the building a respectable look.

basement

The most serious impact, both mechanical and natural, always falls on the basement of the house. For this reason, basement siding must withstand a wide variety of loads. Special requirements are put forward for its strength and moisture resistance.

Such materials incorporate polymers of special strength. This allows them to be used for facing stress areas. Due to the above functions, its cost is an order of magnitude higher than that of other similar products.

Plinth siding can imitate brick and stone, it is suitable for original design solutions. Such materials can sheathe the facade, columns, pipes and other parts of the building. The panels are distinguished by a more pronounced relief, thickness, as well as a layer based on fiberglass from the inside. They can be used both for outdoor and indoor finishing works, they are successfully used in kitchens, bathrooms, as well as on loggias.

Advantages and disadvantages

Most often, metal and vinyl panels are used to decorate a house with siding, so it is necessary to highlight their main pros and cons so that the consumer has an idea of ​​​​what he will have to face in the end. Such materials endure exposure to ultraviolet and sunlight, the influence of adverse natural phenomena and the vagaries of the weather. They perform a protective function, protecting the walls of the building.

This siding is easy to install. If an unforeseen situation arises and an individual element needs to be replaced, this can be done without dismantling the entire structure. The panels do not lose their brilliance and presentable appearance for a long time. Additional maintenance of materials is not required, the only exception is cleaning from dirt and dust. Washing such siding to keep it looking good is required approximately once a year.

Vinyl panels can be adversely affected by low temperatures. They become brittle and endure external mechanical influences worse. Also, such siding is not fire resistant and deforms when it comes into contact with fire.

The combination of several colors on the facade of the building looks original. This makes it possible to create your own design without the fear of seeing something similar. Much attention should be paid to the combination of colors of the walls and roof, because this part is striking.

And you can also combine invoices. Smooth slabs look advantageous next to stone-like and brick-like siding.

The combination of siding and facade panels will help not only ennoble the building, but also give it a unique charm.

Sheathing with wood siding will help provide excellent thermal insulation of the room. In addition, this material is environmentally friendly. However, in this case, we must not forget about the timely care of the panels.