Junipers: diseases and treatment. Rust: orange spots on pear leaves and drying juniper needles Juniper red needles

Juniper is a beautiful, but difficult plant to care for. Quite often, the needles, for no apparent reason, begin to dry and fall off. So, what to do if the junipers turn yellow? How to deal with it?

Junipers are considered an unpretentious decoration of garden and summer cottages. But in reality the opposite happens. The evergreen shrub brings the owner a lot of trouble. And the most basic is the yellowing of the needles. In this article, we will look at why junipers turn yellow and how to deal with it.

Juniper turned yellow: circumstances

There may be a couple of reasons for the yellowing of juniper.

Circumstance #1. Diseases

One of the most common diseases shute. It manifests itself in the form of a transformation of the color of the needles, their death and loss. The causative agent is a fungus that mainly affects weak plants growing in the shade or on overly wet soils. It is possible to identify the problem in June. Just at this time, elliptical or rounded black spores appear on the branches. If nothing is done, the needles get a yellow-brown hue.

Schutte is a common disease of conifers.

How to fight . Systematically and in time to remove the affected branches. Prophylactic treatment with fungicides will help prevent the appearance of the fungus. This should be done in spring and autumn. The following drugs have proven themselves well - Quadris, Skor, Strobi, Ridomil Gold, Tilt.

The second most common disease rust. Caused by basidiomycetes. It appears as yellow-orange growths on the branches. The peculiarity is contained in the fact that not only juniper is affected, but also neighboring plants - the pathogen needs two carriers to go through the cycle. First, the spores are carried by the wind to apple trees, pears, hawthorn or mountain ash. Reniform mounds and rust spots form on the pages, from which spores spill out, which later fall on the juniper. It is curious that yellow-orange growths are not immediately noticeable - approximately in the second year after the end of the lesion. The first alarm signals that cannot be ignored are thickenings and wounds on the branches of the juniper. According to observations, Cossack and Virginsky junipers are more prone to rust than other varieties.

How to fight . If rust has already appeared, then it is difficult to cure the disease. We need to eliminate the first owner. Damaged juniper branches are cut out. Pruning is done with a sterile pruner (treat it with alcohol), otherwise it is only possible to worsen the situation. Healthy branches are treated with fungicides. Microfertilizers with an immunomodulatory effect will help reduce the harmfulness of rust.

Shrinking branches- Another headache for gardeners and summer residents. It leads not only to the loss of decorativeness by the bush, but also quite often to death. Pathogens - a large group of fungi that begin work in the spring. The needles turn yellow and begin to fall off. Later, small black spores appear on the bark and on the branches. It was noted that junipers of Skyrocket, Blue Star and Blue Сarpet varieties are most susceptible to drying out.

Sick branches are carefully cut with secateurs.

How to fight . Sick branches and particles of bark are removed, the plant is carefully treated with fungicides. Cuts and wounds are disinfected with bronze vitriol. Preventive treatment is carried out in spring and autumn. From time to time - in the summer.

Nectrium and Biotorell cancer also leads to yellowing of the needles. Much more often, the mycelium is located on the bark and the spread of the disease is facilitated by mechanical damage to the outer clothing of the juniper. The disease progresses rapidly - the branches turn yellow, the bark cracks, longitudinal ulcers appear and the plant begins to die.

How to fight . If the affected area is huge, then it is unlikely that the juniper will be saved. Bad branches are removed, the plant is treated with Vectra, Bayleton, Skor, Tilt. For prevention purposes, every six months (in early spring and autumn) spray the bushes with solutions containing copper (Bordeaux mixture, Oxyhom, bronze vitriol, Fitosporin).

Experts recommend changing drugs - this significantly increases the effectiveness of the measures taken. Along with this, not only the plant is processed, but also the land. If the juniper could not be saved, then the earth is changed at this place, in extreme cases, they are disinfected.

With a massive defeat of the branches, it is better to remove the plant entirely from the site.

Careful selection of new planting material will help prevent an outbreak of disease. If the health of the bushes is in doubt, it is better not to take risks and treat them with drugs such as Maxim, Quadris, Fitosporin.

Increases the risk of infection dense plantings and heavy soils with poor air exchange. The optimal time for prevention is April and October.

Circumstance #2. Sucking pests

The aphid sucks the juice of the plant, which leads to its death.

From time to time on young junipers appears aphid. It delays the development of the plant, leads to twisting and yellowing of the branches. Control measures are to prevent the spread of ants, since they are the ones who graze aphids. Washing branches with soapy water helps. Remember to secure the ground near the juniper so that water does not seep to the roots. Washing is repeated a couple of times with an interval of 7-10 days. The harmfulness of aphids is reduced by pruning the shoots on which there are countless colonies.

Juniper scale insect no less scary. If the needles began to turn yellow and fall off in June, carefully inspect the shrub. Perhaps the circumstance is in rounded larvae, well sitting on needles. The shields are very small (up to 1.5 mm) - it is difficult to notice them. The scale insect sucks the juice out of the bark, as a result, the plant changes color and begins to dry out. If the pests appeared relatively recently, then carefully clean them with a knife. In more advanced cases, they are sprayed with insecticides (Aktara, Fufanon, Aktellik). Straw or burlap belts covered with caterpillar glue are put on the branches - this will prevent the spread of larvae.

spider mite envelops the juniper in a narrow cobweb, which is why it crumbles and becomes covered first with yellow, and later with brown spots. The tick is especially terrible in dry weather with a lack of liquid in the soil. During one growing season, the female tick gives up to 6 generations, in other words, the harm from the life of spider mites is significant. Attentive care and care for still weak bushes will help prevent the appearance of pests. In the summer, spray the branches with water from a spray bottle. If a web is found, prepare an infusion of dandelion, garlic or colloidal sulfur for spraying. In very neglected environments, acaricides are used.

Gall midges are not a harmless mosquito at all.

Sucking pests prefer young or weakened plants. That is why it is fundamentally important to systematically fertilize, loosen the earth and remove weeds. Great attention should be paid to the quality of planting material - take seedlings only from trusted suppliers. The soil at the landing site should be light, fertile with a low level of acidity.

Circumstance #3. needle-eating pests

In May, purple butterflies can appear over the junipers. If you ignore their fussy fluttering, then in July green caterpillars with a dark red head will settle on the branches. it pine moths. known for their gluttony. In October, the caterpillars suddenly disappear, but one should not rejoice. They go underground or hide in the fallen needles in order to safely winter in the pupa stage, and later again take up the destruction of the juniper. Control measures include spraying bushes with enteric-contact insecticides and digging up the ground to kill pupae.

juniper sawfly can be identified by green larvae with a brown head and three black stripes on the body. They feed on shoots and needles, turning fluffy green juniper into a burnt broom. Systematically dig the ground, destroy the larvae and spray the plant with Karbofos.

The shoot moth loves to feast on young shoots on pine needles.

shoot moth eats away young shoots, which is why the juniper does not grow well, becomes pale and stunted. be directed to highlight that the bush is sprayed in this case not with simple insecticides, but with the addition of mineral oils.

Junipers turned yellow: what to do? This question worries many connoisseurs of evergreen shrubs. Is it possible to expand the effectiveness of ongoing health improvement activities? What do the experts recommend?

to eliminate fungi, use fungicides, insects and their larvae - insecticides, ticks - acaricides;
treat the bushes a couple of times until complete recovery with an interval of 2 weeks;
spraying should not be carried out in windy weather;
the optimal time for disinfection is the morning or evening of a warm day;
in case of fungal diseases, cut branches are treated with bronze vitriol and smeared with oil paint on drying oil;
The following cocktail proved to be excellent: Epin (1 ampoule) + Zircon (1 ampoule) + 5 liters of water. This mixture is abundantly sprayed with yellowed needles. Maybe a couple of times with an interval of a couple of days.

If the needles fall only on the inside of the crown and only in September, then, most likely, nothing terrible happens. This is a natural process of changing the coat, which lasts 2-3 years. At the end of the fall of the old needles under it, you will notice a new one - young and beautiful.

But if the needles fall out all over the crown, then perhaps the circumstance lies in the excessive gas content of the atmosphere. In addition, yellowing is possibly caused by acid rain. Unfortunately, this has been happening quite often lately.

In any case, don't expect instant results. The needles are restored for a long time. From time to time it takes 2-3 years.

Other circumstances of juniper yellowing

Yellowing of needles is promoted not only by fungi and pests. In order for the juniper to please the eye, it is fundamentally important to arm yourself with the knowledge of correct planting and cultivation.

One of the most common causes of yellowing of the needles is the drying out of the roots. When planting, put a couple of small stones on the bottom of the pit, cover them with earth (mix it with peat, sand and clay) and only later start planting juniper. Do not completely cover the root neck with earth. Do not plant shrubs in the open sun - juniper loves partial shade. Do not allow severe waterlogging and compaction of the soil. In spring and autumn, spray with growth bioregulators such as Zircon, Elin, Elin-extra.

Juniper loves neither dry land nor too wet.

Excessively moist soil can also cause the crown to dry out. The roots begin to rot and the needles turn yellow. Transplanting to dry soil, removing rotten ones and processing healthy roots with Kornevin will help. If the juniper grows in your house in a pot, then it is better to take a structured soil. Mix crushed pine bark (approximately 5% of the total volume), a uniform amount of large fraction river sand and cat litter (Barsik effect, Barsik standard, Zeolite). The pot must have huge drainage holes.

Many people know that even weak junipers need to be covered for the winter, but not everyone knows that, for example, it is forbidden to do this with lutrasil, agrotherm or spunbond. These materials not only let the sun's rays through, but also retain moisture, which leads to yellowing of the needles - to frost and sunburn. Young bushes are very sensitive to the spring sun. In March, they need to be covered with burlap. It is possible to cover the crown from above with it, and it is possible to pull it onto the frame, placing such a screen on the sunny side. Adult plants are not afraid of frost, but they can suffer from the spring sun, so it is also better to cover them.

Juniper needles turn yellow with an increase in alkali and acid in the soil. It is possible to check the level of their content by means of a test, which is sold in any specialized store. If you keep dogs, then keep them away from the trees. The urine of animals burns the needles and increases the content of alkali in the earth.

The best treatment is prevention. Take care of the juniper - shelter from the destructive spring sun, loosen the ground, prevent the roots from drying out or rotting, and inspect the shrub as often as possible for warning signs. If you do this invariably, then the plant will be healthy, respectively, will delight you with the beauty and amazing smell of pine needles.

Rust is a fungal disease that affects many plants. Recently, more and more often they talk about the mutual defeat of pear trees and junipers. Juniper is traditionally thought to be the culprit. The risk zone includes junipers that grow even in other areas at a distance of about 100 m. How dangerous is this disease for pears and junipers? How can you fight him? Is it possible to thoroughly treat a huge pear or juniper with “chemicals”? Is the disease dangerous for plants infected with rust?

Such spots on pear leaves appear when infected with rust.

How to identify rust?

Pear. Just a few years ago, my gardening friends and I were surprised to see small bright yellow spots on pear leaves. The following year, these spots became more. Orange spots, edged with a thin yellow stripe, grow over time. Dark gray fragments appear on them, and the underside of the leaf is disfigured by disgusting growths with spores.

The pear “Naryadnaya Efimova” was the first to pick up rust

Many site owners began to dig up junipers and transplant them away from their garden. But this did not save the pear trees. The infection that appeared in our region marked its presence on almost all pear trees. Orange spots on pear leaves are visible from a distance even in those areas where not a single juniper grows.

In a pear affected by rust, immunity is reduced. It bears less fruit, according to the literature, it risks freezing out in winter at air temperatures below -20°C. They say that the quality of the fruit is drastically reduced. Luckily, we haven't had to verify this yet.

Pear "Royal", to my surprise, turned out to be the most resistant to rust

Juniper. This coniferous plant is only an intermediate host of the fungus. Often the cause of the further spread of spores is a rust-affected pear. In our village, almost all pears are sick.

The fungus damages junipers quickly. I instantly picked up an infection with the most common forest juniper. Other species are holding on.

Rust on juniper

A diseased juniper "rusts". Not like some conifers, which usually turn brown in autumn. A pathogenic fungus that causes rust, sprinkles the bases of twigs and needles with dirty brown “dust” and multiplies rapidly. Its spores are carried over long distances by the wind through the air or by raindrops. Diseased branches dry and die.

Rusted juniper needles

How to treat a diseased plant?

When signs of rust appear, it is necessary to process not only pears, but also junipers.

The drug copes well with this disease " SCOR ". Its feature is the duration of the systemic action. Treatment begins within two hours, the main effect can be achieved within three weeks. The drug can be used even in partly cloudy with short rains. At air temperatures below +12°C, it acts more slowly.

There is an analogue - Revus Top ". This is a new fungicide, more effective and faster than "Skor".

Many popular garden "medicines" (" Bordeaux mixture " and " Fitosporin ”) help little, judging by the numerous reviews.

You can also try " Fundazol » (« Benlat », « Benomyl "") and a fast-acting systemic fungicide " Byleton" .

I was praised for the drugs " Ditan M-45 " and " Kuproksat ».

Some gardeners process a pear in autumn urea . Unfortunately, the result is not always satisfactory, because absolutely all twigs and leaves have to be well moistened with a concentrated solution. Not only those that remained on the tree, but also those lying on the ground. And this task is difficult, because trees are tall. Re-treatment of pear and juniper is carried out in the spring after the leaves bloom (before flowering).

I was advised to try the drug " Abiga Peak ". It contains copper, is easy to use, economical, does not wash off with rain, processing should be carried out in dry, calm weather.

Processing times

Spring. Before flowering and immediately after it ends.

End of August - September. Processing is complicated by a large mass of foliage and fruit-bearing plants nearby, but which can get drugs.

leaf fall. Complete treatment with a solution of urea of all branches and foliage on a pear tree. Don't forget fallen leaves.

Additional treatments are possible, the need for which is indicated in the instructions for specific drugs.

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Junipers are a fairly large group of evergreen conifers of the cypress family. For landscaping garden and park areas and summer cottages, juniper trees and shrubs are planted with a height of 150 cm to 20 m, of various forms - creeping, bushy, spherical or erect. But, despite all its beauty and unpretentiousness, improper care and disease can cause severe harm to the plant. The article will discuss how to properly care for juniper and pest control.

Young junipers have needle-like foliage, which changes with age, depending on the variety, and takes the form of small scales. Junipers have a powerful root system, but grow extremely slowly, thanks to this feature, the growth period of some representatives can last up to 1000 years.

juniper care

Coniferous plants are crops that do not require special care. The main care is watering, spraying, loosening the soil and removing weeds.
It is important to protect the plant in early spring from sunburn, and in winter to protect the crown from the pressure of a snowball.
And if at the same time the right place for planting was chosen - a sunny, bright clearing, with light nutrient soil - then the juniper will delight with healthy dense foliage and attractive appearance for many years.

Fertilizer

Young juniper needs annual fertilization, starting from the second year after planting. More adult representatives need to be fed 1 time in 2-3 years. As a fertilizer, rotted manure, superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and other mineral fertilizers are used.

The nutrient mixture is applied during the period of bud swelling (late April - early June) into the ground around the plant, to a depth of 10 cm, and then watered. In this case, fertilizers should not be poured directly to the trunk or branches of plants (retreat 15 cm).
Also during the summer season, it is allowed to “feed” the juniper with a special complex fertilizer for conifers. The composition, which includes elements such as:
1. magnesium;
2. potassium;
3. iron;
4. copper;
5. manganese;
6. zinc;
7. phosphorus.
Thanks to this combination, the juniper receives good nutrition, which has a positive effect on the color and brightness of the needles, resistance to adverse weather factors, as well as strengthening the immune system.
When buying a fertilizer, one should give preference to one in which the nitrogen content is minimal, especially if it is planned to be applied in the autumn. Since this negatively affects the frost resistance of juniper: there is an active growth of shoots that do not have time to become stiff by the winter period and freeze out. At the same time, juniper needs a large amount of magnesium, with a lack of which yellowing of the apical shoots is observed.
Junipers respond well to the application of liquid organic fertilizers based on biohumus diluted with water into the soil. Such top dressing stimulates the growth of the root system and activates the processes of photosynthesis.
The application of any fertilizer should be in accordance with the recommendations on the packaging, as junipers are plants that are better underfed than overfed.

Watering and spraying

Juniper belongs to drought-resistant plants, but if the summer is too dry and hot, then plantings should be watered abundantly 2-3 times per season. Up to 30 liters of water are poured onto one bush. Mostly young and recently transplanted plants need watering. This is due to the fact that their roots have not yet gone deep into the soil and are located close to the surface. Watering is done in the morning or in the evening.
In the autumn, before finally preparing the plant for hibernation, it is watered abundantly (up to 10 liters of water per 1 sq. M.), This measure will help the juniper to winter better.

A large amount of dust settles on the branches and needles of plants, which spoils the appearance and clogs the pores, preventing the process of photosynthesis. As it gets dirty (about 1-2 times a month), it is necessary to spray the crown. The procedure is carried out in the morning or evening hours to prevent sunburn on the foliage, as the water acts as a lens, attracting the sun's rays.
A jet of water should not be directed directly at the juniper, otherwise fragile shoots may break from strong pressure. This is especially bad for the shape of columnar representatives. A recently transplanted juniper can be sprayed with the addition of stress-relieving drugs to the water: Zircon, Epin-Extra, Ribav and others.

Loosening and mulching

Junipers need to loosen the soil and mulch it after each watering and weeding. Young plants have small roots located close to the surface, so loosening the ground should be done gently and shallowly.
Mulching is necessary to prevent the formation of a dense earthen crust, rapid drying of the soil, and also to inhibit the growth of weeds. In addition, thanks to mulching, it is possible to avoid burns of the root system from the bright sun or its freezing during return frosts. In addition, it is an excellent tool for the development of special soil microflora and mycorrhiza, with the help of which plants receive more nutrients and water from the soil.

A variety of crushed material is used as mulch: peat, sawdust, conifer bark, wood chips or walnut shells, sprinkled with a layer of 5-10 cm. Mulch also has a decorative function, giving the juniper composition a complete look.

pruning

Juniper is used in many landscape gardening compositions; it can be planted in small groups or single representatives. Most of its species do not need pruning, but when forming a hedge, it is necessary. The plant tolerates shearing well, so it is quite easy to form its crown of various shapes - pyramidal, spherical, creeping or columnar. The following are photos of juniper in various forms.

Tip: do not forget that for the most part these are slow-growing plants, so they should be cut very carefully.

When forming a garden composition from several juniper plants, it is important to observe the distance between plantings so that nearby plants do not shade each other:

fast-growing species are planted at a distance of 3-4 m;
slow-growing plants can be planted at a distance of 1-3 m from each other;
creeping species are planted in groups of 2-4 pcs. per 1 sq.m.

If the conditions have not been met and neighboring branches interfere with the full development of plants, then pruning should be done.
It is important to remove dried, damaged branches and broken shoots throughout the season. The best time for the formation of the crown is the spring period, before bud break. Junipers used as hedges are pruned in mid-summer. It is not recommended to do a haircut in the autumn, as this has a bad effect on the wintering of plants.

Preparing for the winter

Ephedra are most often frost-resistant crops, but some varieties do not tolerate the harsh climate, so for the winter they should be covered with spruce branches, and the ground around should be mulched with a layer of sawdust or peat (up to 10 cm), which is raked in spring so that the roots do not rot.
Young plants (up to 3-4 years old) should also be covered for the winter period. In addition, if the juniper has a spreading crown or pyramidal and columnar shapes, then the branches for the winter should not be tied too tightly with twine or twine so as not to damage them with a snow cap.

It is better not to cover an adult juniper that tolerates low temperatures well, as this can lead to undesirable consequences - during winter thaws, fungal diseases begin to develop under the covering material. However, they need to be shaded for the winter, using a net placed on the sunny side.
Plentiful autumn watering helps the juniper successfully overwinter. If the crown was formed (trimmed) at the end of September-October, then the plant should be covered.
The following materials are used for shelter:
1. sackcloth;
2. kraft paper or ordinary newspapers;
3. nonwoven materials (spunbond, lutrasil, agrospan and others).
Material that does not allow air to pass through will not work. The plant must breathe, therefore, wrapping the shelter around the juniper, you should leave an open place, preferably on the shady side, in order to prevent bright sunlight and the possibility of crown burns.
It is necessary to remove the shelter carefully so as not to damage the fragile, after hibernation, juniper. This is best done at the end of April, when the earth has already warmed up slightly and the root system begins to receive nutrition. A cloudy, calm day is chosen so that the plant gradually adapts to changing conditions.

Diseases and pests

Junipers have a fairly strong wood that is resistant to decay and the harmful effects of insects. But despite this, plants have common diseases and pests that need to be dealt with.

juniper pests

Conifers suffer from insect invasion, perhaps even more than deciduous trees. After all, the needles grow for many years and if it is damaged, then the plant takes on an untidy painful appearance. Therefore, it is so important to detect and prevent the spread of pests in a timely manner.

Sawfly

Small herbivorous insect with complete metamorphosis. The larvae of the sawfly cause great harm to the juniper. It's pretty easy to recognize them. They are green in color, similar to caterpillars, but endowed with eight pairs of legs, three dark stripes are visible along the body, a brown head with two simple eyes.

Pest females begin to fly from late summer or early autumn. They lay their eggs inside twigs and needles. In the places of such oviposition, you can notice a slight yellowing and tiny cuts. The larvae appear in May-June, live in nests, and spread by migration. They damage the internal tissues of the shoots and needles, completely destroying one branch, move to the next. The life cycle of the larvae is 20-30 days, after which they crawl to the ground under the plant and pupate, and females reappear in autumn, laying eggs.
As control measures, crowns are treated in May-June with biological products, such as Lepidocide, chemical contact insecticides, such as Korbofos, and drugs such as Decis, Kinmiks, or Benzophosphate. Spray should be twice, with a break of 2-4 weeks.
In addition, it is necessary from time to time to shake off the damaged branches and loosen the trunk circles, and in June-July, you can water the juniper with a weak solution of ash.

These are small insects, green or brown in color, living in colonies. They appear in early spring from eggs laid in autumn.

They settle mainly on young shoots and feed on the juice of the plant, depriving it of vitality. Aphid activity peaks in June. With a strong defeat of one plant, the aphid colony moves to a number of growing species. It is necessary to regularly inspect juniper plantings and, at the first sign of the appearance of aphids, take active control measures.
You can fight aphids using various methods. For example, collect aphids with your hands or spray infected plants with plain water under pressure. Or spray juniper with such preparations as Fitoverm or Karbofos twice, in 10-15 days. Folk remedies will also help - infusions of garlic, hot pepper, wormwood or tomato leaves.
There are plants that repel aphids. For example, under the juniper, you can plant perennial flowers from the aster family - pyrethrum. They will not only help get rid of the pest, but also decorate the garden.

mining moth

A species of butterfly pests that damage the needles of plants. It got its name because of the way the caterpillars feed, which mine the needles - they eat away the inside, leaving the skin intact.

Control measures include the use of a solution of the drug "Decisa", which is sprayed with juniper 2 times, with an interval of 15-20 days. It is also necessary to dig row-spacings in late autumn and cultivate the soil in near-stem circles, such a measure leads to the death of most moth pupae in winter. In addition, the trunks should be cleaned of old bark, and the damage found should be repaired with soda var.

Needle tick

A small insect that is yellow, red, green, or white. Infection with a tick is manifested in an increase in the tips of the needles. For destruction, the drugs "Karate", "Akarin" or "Neoron" are used. Processing should be done in early May.
Also, an effective measure can be watering the juniper crown with warm water, with the addition of laundry soap, several times a season. You can also use folk remedies, such as infusions of tobacco, horseradish leaves or garlic - spray the plant after 5-7 days, for a month.

Juniper scale insect

A small insect, pale yellow in color, oblong or round in shape. They nest in cones or on needles and feed on the sap of the plant, which leads to slow growth, and sometimes to the death of the juniper. Harm is caused by both larvae and female insects.
It is necessary to regularly inspect plants and, at the first sign of damage, carry out an immediate fight. Measures to destroy the pest include the use of various insecticidal preparations: Karbofos, Aktara, Phosbecid or Aktellik.
You should also wash the plants for a week with a weak solution of laundry soap, not forgetting to rinse the juniper with clean water after that. Severely damaged branches should be cut and burned.

Juniper diseases

All diseases that juniper is exposed to are curable only if measures are taken in time. Fungal spores cause the greatest harm to conifers. Experts have identified more than 40 different types of pathogenic fungi that are the causative agents of juniper diseases.

Fusarium (tracheomycosis wilt)

The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Fusarium. The disease manifests itself in yellowing or reddening of the needles, in a thinning crown and subsequent drying of the plant. The disease begins with the root system, fungal spores penetrate into the internal tissues and block the access of nutrients. Juniper roots turn brown and then die. The fungus causes the greatest damage to young plants.

As soon as the first signs appear, all diseased specimens should be removed in a timely manner. As a preventive measure, before planting, treat the root system of plants with one of the following fungicidal preparations: Vitaros, Baktofit, Fitosporin-M or Maxim. The soil under the plants is shed with a solution of Alirin-B or Gamair, and the plant itself can be sprayed with a solution of Fundazol.

Alternariosis

The cause of the disease is the fungus Alternaria, which affects the root system of young plants. As a result, the needles acquire a brown tint, and a dark coating appears on the branches.
As a rule, thickened planting of seedlings leads to the disease. To combat the fungus, it is necessary to destroy all the affected branches, disinfect the wounds with a solution of copper sulfate and cover with garden pitch. In the spring, spray with Bordeaux mixture or Abiga-Peak.

juniper rust

The most common disease of the plant is considered to be "rust", the causative agent of the disease is the fungus Gymnosporangium and several of its species.

Its peculiarity lies in the fact that for the full development it needs a change of residence. Initially, in May-June, mushrooms settle on fruit and berry trees, and only by mid-summer, matured spores are carried by the wind to juniper.
As a control measure, the "Arceride" solution is used, which needs to be sprayed on the diseased plant every 10 days, until complete recovery. Spraying with a solution of Bordeaux liquid and disinfecting the resulting wounds with copper sulphate will also help. In addition, juniper plantings should not be combined with fruit and berry crops. All diseased plants must be destroyed. If the juniper is partially damaged, then in the spring the infected branches are cut out and burned.
Recognizing rust is quite simple - orange spots, slightly convex, on the needles or petioles of the plant. Cracking, a powder appears from the stain - spores of a rust fungus. The disease must be treated immediately as soon as it is detected, otherwise it can lead to the death of the shoots, weakening the general condition of the juniper and its death. Disputes appear in May-July; prolonged rains and low air temperatures can contribute to the spread of the disease.

Schutte

With proper care, even an old juniper will become a wonderful decoration of a garden or a personal plot, besides, it is an excellent disinfectant - 1 hectare of juniper per day can cleanse the atmosphere of pathogens in a large city.

Not everyone knows about what juniper diseases and their treatment are. But in order to achieve the desired result, and return the plant to an attractive appearance, it is necessary to learn how to recognize diseases and take action at the first symptoms.

Common juniper diseases and their treatment

When growing coniferous plants in a summer cottage, you must be able to provide the necessary assistance when problems are detected.

Fusarium juniper

The causative agents of the disease are soil fungi that can cause root rot. When it enters the root system, the mycelium blocks the access of nutrients. If nothing is done, then in a short time the upper part of the shoots will begin to fade, turn yellow, and the needles will fall off.

Most of all, young twigs are affected by fusarium.

The infection persists for a long period of time. The main place of her stay is the soil and the affected stems.

Favorable environment for fusarium are:

loamy soil;
excess moisture;
lack of light.

To get rid of this problem, it is necessary to carry out culling in a timely manner. Also, at the first symptoms of the disease, it is recommended to remove the affected plants along with the root system.

As a preventive measure, young plants are treated with Baktofit before planting. Also use a drug called Vitarox. When the first signs of the disease appear, the soil around the plant should be watered with Fitosporin solution. Plants are also treated with Fundazol.

Drying of shoots

The causative agents are some types of fungi. When they appear, the bark begins to dry out. Brown growths appear on its surface, the branches turn yellow, and the needles crumble. The infection that leads to this problem is stored in the affected bark, branches and unharvested shoot residues.

To prevent such a problem, it is necessary to use only high-quality planting material. It is also recommended to carry out the correct and timely pruning of shoots. In order to prevent the development of infection, all affected areas and sections should be treated with 1%, and a layer of oil paint should be applied on top.

In early spring and late autumn, juniper is sprayed with Bordeaux mixture. If the disease is running, then the procedure is repeated.

juniper Alternariosis

A sign of the disease is brown needles and a pronounced dark coating on the shoots. If the disease is not treated with anything, then over time the branches will begin to fade. The reason for the appearance of alternariosis is the thickening of the plantings.

Alternariosis appears only on the lower branches.

The infection persists in the affected areas and unharvested leaves. Struggling with alternariosis in the same way as with withering shoots.

Shutte juniper

This disease has another name - brown gray mold. Its causative agents are fungi that begin to infect shoots at a temperature of +0.5 o C.

Schutte infects plants only under snow.

Symptoms of the disease are branches that have a brown or yellowish tint. The needles also change their color and stick together with a grayish web.

With a shutte, despite the fact that the needles acquire a reddish tint, they do not crumble. But thin twigs dry out pretty quickly. They are the first to be affected by this disease.

This problem is often caused by high soil moisture, as well as dense plantings. You can prevent development by timely pruning of dry shoots. It is also recommended to spray the plant with Bordeaux mixture twice a year.

juniper rust

This is the most common juniper disease. Mushrooms that lead to this problem germinate on needles, twigs, cones. Such growths have thickenings and a bright shade. Blisters and swells appear on the trunk or at the root neck. Because of them, the bark dries out, and shallow wounds form on the surface.

In early spring, when the snow has not yet melted, growths of a dark brown hue form. They are often referred to as telioja. After rain or heavy fog, they become soft and swell, covered with mucus on top. It is in them that spores are formed that are able to germinate and be carried by the wind.

If no action is taken, then the branches dry out rather quickly, the needles change their color to brown and crumble. The infection overwinters on the bark. It can also infect quince and apple trees. Fight rust by removing affected branches. Periodic spraying with Bordeaux mixture is also recommended.

Cortical necrosis

You can determine the disease by the presence of the so-called pads, which have a brick-red tint. Outgrowths grow up to 2 mm in width. After a few days, they begin to darken and dry out. Bark necrosis can also affect the root system. The roots are affected and dry out over time. Similar is observed with twigs and needles. The infection persists in diseased branches, plant debris. Fight necrosis as well as wilting branches.

Biotorell cancer

The causative agent of this disease is the fungus biatorella diformik.

Signs of the disease:

Drying of branches.
Cracking of the bark and the appearance of ulcers in the wood.
The wood turns brown and begins to rot.

Pathogenic microorganisms appear in places where the bark is cracked or mechanically damaged. The fungus develops in the tissues, after which the bark becomes brown and dries out after a while. Such lesions lead to the fact that the needles and twigs begin to turn yellow and dry out.

In order to prevent such a problem, it is necessary to follow all the rules and recommendations of agricultural technology. It is also recommended to use high-quality seedlings, because they carry a similar infection.

But, if, nevertheless, signs of the disease appear on the plant, it is necessary to remove the affected shoots as soon as possible. Spray all cuts and deformed areas with a weak solution of copper sulfate. Coat the treated branches and trunk with paint or drying oil. In the first month of spring and in October, it is recommended to carry out prophylaxis with a Bordeaux mixture. Instead of this drug, you can use Hom or Abiga-peak.

juniper pests

Natural disasters contribute to the appearance in the garden of a large number of various insects that damage plants.

Angled Moth

This is a butterfly that is distinguished by a purple-gray hue. Its wingspan is within 30 mm. On their outer edge there is a small notch. On the front wings there are three, and on the back two lines.

Caterpillars are up to 30 mm long. They are green with a brownish head. There are dark green stripes on the surface. Caterpillars grow up to 30 cm long. Brown pupa. Its length is about 11 mm. They overwinter in the soil or dry grass.

Both caterpillars and butterflies feed on needles and juniper twigs. It is not difficult to deal with the ugly-winged moth. To do this, annually in May, it is necessary to spray the plant with Fufanon, or Decis Profi. If the branches are badly damaged, then all dry shoots are cut and removed as far as possible from the place where the juniper grows.

Juniper scale insect

This is an insect that is small in size. The female is elongated. It reaches 2 mm in length, brown. The larvae appear in the first part of June.

The juniper scale insect feeds on needles and cones. It also affects pines, arborvitae and cypress.

In the case when the plant is badly damaged, the needles turn brown, and the branches begin to dry. If nothing is done, then the plant will dry out in a fairly short time. You can fight this pest with the help of actellik, fufanon.

With proper planting and care, juniper will always have a healthy appearance. But if, nevertheless, the plant begins to wither and lose its needles, then simple measures will help get rid of diseases.

Treatment of brown juniper needles - video

Coniferous evergreen shrubs adorn almost every suburban area. They captivate with their decorative effect, which persists throughout the year, unpretentious care, resistance to cold and adverse environmental factors. However, like most ornamental plants, juniper in the garden can get sick and be attacked by pests. We will talk about how to protect the shrub from such troubles in this article.

Did you know? In addition to decorativeness, juniper has a soil-protective and water-protective value. Essential oil is obtained from its shoots, and the berries are used in folk medicine.

Signs and ways to deal with juniper diseases

Most often, the juniper suffers from some kind of ailment in the spring, when its immune system has not returned to normal after the winter period. Waterlogging of the soil during spring floods, raising the level of groundwater negatively affect the decorativeness of the plant. Its needles turn yellow and die. Spring temperature drops and frosts often lead to freezing of the crown and roots. Young bushes are especially susceptible to this.

Also, junipers can suffer from spring burns or physiological drying, which are manifested by yellowing of the needles and their further shedding. This happens due to the fact that at the first spring rays of the sun, in late February - early March, the crown of the shrub is very hot, photosynthesis is actively taking place in it, for which moisture is needed. Unable to take water from the frozen ground, the juniper consumes the intracellular fluid of the tissues. To protect the plant from this phenomenon, it is necessary to shade it in February-March with agrospan, lutrasil, spunbond, spruce branches or other materials.

However, fungal infectious diseases are still a great danger to coniferous shrubs. About the most common of them and about caring for juniper during the period of the disease, read below.

Alternaria is an infectious disease spread by the fungus Alternaria tenuis. . Its symptoms are brown-colored needles and a black velvety coating on it. As a result of the defeat, the needles crumble, and the branches dry out. The pathogen lives in the bark, needles and plant debris. The reason for its activity is thickened plantings. Control measures. To avoid this disease, it is necessary to follow the rules of juniper agricultural technology. Also, in spring and autumn, preventive spraying is carried out with 1% Bordeaux liquid, the HOM preparation.

The affected branches must be cut off, the places of the cuts must be disinfected with copper sulphate (1%), covered with garden pitch or oil paint with drying oil in the composition. In case of severe damage in the summer, treatment with Bordeaux liquid or its analogues is recommended.

Important!When using chemicals for juniper diseases, it is necessary to treat one shrub first. If during the day there is no undesirable reaction from the plant, then other junipers can be sprayed.

Biotorella crayfish juniper

Another dangerous fungal disease for the juniper bush is biotorella cancer. It manifests itself as brown spots on the bark, which eventually dries up and cracks, ulcers and fruiting bodies form on it. Then the juniper turns yellow, and the needles fall off.

The causative agent of this disease is the fungus Biatorella difformis, which is stored in the bark of the plant. The causes of the disease are mechanical damage to the cortex. The infection is transmitted through infected planting plants and in dense and dense plantings.

Control measures. In the treatment and prevention of biotorella cancer, the same methods are used as in Alternariosis (see above).

Yellowing and falling off of the needles, dying off of the branches and death of the whole plant are caused by necrosis of the bark of the branches, excited by the fungus Nectria cucurbitula. Its distribution first leads to the formation of red foci of sporulation on the bark, which later darken and dry. The reason for the activity of the pathogen is the dense planting of shrubs. Control measures. In the treatment of nectriosis of the bark of juniper branches, the same methods are used as in Alternaria. To prevent infection, spring and autumn treatment of juniper from pests and diseases with fungicides is used. One or two times is enough to significantly reduce the risk of infection. The first treatment can be carried out with a tank mixture of "Ridomila Gold MC", "Caesar" and sodium humate. After two or three weeks, for repeated spraying, it is possible to use "Strobe" ("Skor", "Kvadris") and lignohumate.

juniper rust

Symptoms of juniper rust are orange growths on the branches, in which there are pathogenic fungi Gymnosporangium confusum, G. juniperinum, G. sabinae. Mushroom spores are rapidly carried by the wind to other crops. The branches of the juniper dry out, the needles fall off. Shrub death is a common result. Two types of juniper are most susceptible to rust: virgin and Cossack.

Important! Since these fungi have a complex development cycle, which involves the presence of two hosts - usually juniper and rosaceae (pear, apple, shadberry, hawthorn, mountain ash, quince), for prevention, it is necessary to plant these crops away from each other or make a barrier between them from others plants.

Control measures. Unfortunately, this disease is not treatable. Branches with growths are removed, the cut points are disinfected and covered with garden pitch, oil paint. Healthy branches are treated with fungicides. Measures to prevent the occurrence of rust will be spraying the juniper in the spring with such preparations as Tilt, Bayleton, Ridomil Gold MC, Vectra, etc.

Fusarium infection occurs from the soil through the root system. The fungus Fusarium oxysporum first causes darkening of the roots. Then it penetrates into the vascular system of the plant, resulting in malnutrition of the shrub. The juniper dies gradually - at first the needles on the apical shoots turn red, then individual branches dry out, in the end, the whole bush becomes dry. The most susceptible to this dangerous disease are the middle and virgin species.

Control measures. In order to prevent the development of this disease in your garden, you must carefully choose planting material, do not buy it in dubious places, but purchase it only in specialized stores. If you doubt the quality of the plant, then the soil and roots must be disinfected with Fitosporin, Maxim, Quadris before planting in open ground.

The soil already under the diseased plant is also subject to disinfection with Fitosporin-M, Gamair, and Fundazol solution. It will even be better if it can be replaced, since drugs cannot guarantee one hundred percent removal of pathogens. Dry infected branches must be cut and destroyed in a timely manner.

If in the spring the juniper begins to turn yellow and shed its needles, and then the branches dry out one after another, then most likely you are dealing with a disease called drying of the branches of the juniper and is excited by a number of pathogenic fungi. Pathogens manifest themselves a little later - in the form of small dark fruiting bodies on the bark. The reproduction of mushrooms is facilitated by dense plantings, heavy soils, and poor air conduction of the earth.

Control measures. With a slight lesion, diseased branches are removed and destroyed, followed by disinfection of the sections. The shrub is treated with fungicides. With the massive spread of mushrooms, juniper can no longer be saved. It must be removed and burned, and the soil disinfected.

Shutte juniper

When infected with an ordinary schütte, juniper needles turn brown or dark yellow. Then it dries, but does not fall off for a long time. By the end of summer, the needles are covered with traces of sporulation of the fungus Lophodermium juniperinum - black fruiting bodies up to 1.5 mm in size.

Control measures . In spring and autumn, spraying with chemicals for the purpose of prevention. Careful cleaning of fallen needles and pruning of branches affected by mushrooms. With a strong lesion, treatment is carried out in the summer. For this, Bordeaux liquid, preparations "HOM", "Ridomil Gold MC", etc. are used.

Juniper brown schütte (brown coniferous snow mold)

The development of the brown schütte disease occurs under the snow. When it descends, the needles of a diseased juniper are yellow or brown. The needles are wrapped in a web, in which the mycelium Herpotrichia juniperi and H. nigra are located. Later, black fruiting bodies are formed in the form of small balls. Brown and dry needles do not fall off for a long time. Snow shute most often mows down weakened plants, junipers growing in the shade and on soils with high humidity.

Control measures . Preventive spring and autumn spraying with fungicides. Feeding plants with fertilizers. For treatment, the drugs "Kvadris", "Ridomil Gold MC", "Strobi", etc. are used.

Important! Since pathogens tend to develop resistance to drugs used for prophylactic and therapeutic treatment, it is advisable to alternate them.

Juniper Pest Control

gall midges

Gall midges are small mosquitoes (2.2 mm). Gall midge larvae form growths at the ends of shoots - galls in the form of cones up to 10 mm high. When the larvae mature, the tops of the needles curve outwards.

Control measures . Spraying with systemic fungicides. Cutting and burning branches with formed galls.

If the needles are entangled in cobwebs, covered with yellow spots and crumble - this is evidence of the vital activity of the spruce spider mite. These sucking insects, which multiply quickly and often, can cause great harm to the juniper, so much so that by the end of summer there will be no trace of its former decorative effect. Young seedlings may die if attacked by a tick.

Control measures . To prevent a tick attack, it is necessary to provide proper care to both young and adult plants. Spray them periodically to increase moisture. In case of massive mite infestation, apply acaricides.

juniper sawfly

Sawfly larvae damage the needles and shoots of juniper, gnawing out their internal tissues.

Control measures . Since the juniper sawfly lives in the soil, digging the trunk circle is recommended. With a slight spread of the pest, manual destruction of nests and larvae will help. In case of mass damage - treatment with infusions and decoctions of insecticide plants.

Juniper aphid is a small wingless insect (3 mm) of brown color with two dark stripes. Aphids attack young plants. She sucks the juice out of them, as a result of which the shrub stops developing, weakens, becomes more susceptible to infectious diseases, and the shoots are deformed.

Control measures . Since aphids are carried by garden ants, the first thing to do is to deal with the root cause - to destroy anthills that are in close proximity. To remove aphids from a shrub, it will need to be treated several times a season with an interval of 7-10 days with a soapy solution (10 g of laundry soap / 10 l of water). In case of mass damage, bio- and chemical preparations are used. For example, you can carry out two sprayings with an interval of two weeks with the Fitoverm biological product.

Juniper scale insect

This insect is light brown in color, covered with a shield on top. Reaches sizes of 1-1.5 mm. Sucking out the juice, it greatly harms young plants, which stop growing and may die. In adult plants, when the scutellum is damaged, the needles turn brown, dry and crumble.

Control measures. Spraying with insecticides "Aktara", "Confidor", "Calypso", etc. Processing is carried out in two or three passes. It is recommended to alternate drugs. Of the sparing methods, you can use trapping belts and manually cleaning the trunks.

Ants are dangerous primarily because they transport sucking insects, such as aphids, scale insects, and worms. They also live in the roots of plants, rotting wood.

Control measures . Treatment of anthills with preparations "Aktellik", "Fufanon", pouring them with boiling water. During the growing season of plants, preparations "Thunder", "Medvetoks", "Ant" and others are introduced into anthills and places of accumulation.

Pine Moth

The Pine Moth is a small purple butterfly with a wingspan of 3.5 cm. By itself, the butterfly does not pose a threat to the juniper. But its larvae feed on needles. They appear in the middle of summer. They have a green body 3 cm long with longitudinal dark stripes. They pupate in the soil.

Control measures . Digging the earth in the trunk circle. Spring and repeated (if necessary) summer treatment with enteric-contact insecticides.

Snails feed on pine needles and juniper sprouts. They multiply massively during periods of heavy rainfall. They also like to live in shaded and thickened places, on weedy soils.

Control measures . Collection by hand and destruction. Weeding, thinning out dense plantings of juniper.

As you can see, there are a lot of diseases and pests that lie in wait for juniper.However, if you comply with all agrotechnical requirements, select high-quality planting material, carefully care for the plant, carry out preventive treatments and strengthen its immune system, it is likely that you will not see signs of any of the ailments described in this article on your handsome conifer.

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