Where to connect the ground in the switch. How to install a light switch: step by step instructions for connecting typical switches. About managing modern lighting from different locations

Light switch wiring diagram, as a rule, causes difficulties for many unprepared people, although, in principle, there is nothing complicated about it. I will try to convince you of this.

This article provides a detailed step-by-step photo instruction, in which the complete process of mounting and connecting the circuit is step-by-step analyzed, as well as connecting its main elements.

The main misunderstanding is the lack of a good example. After all, what do we have in fact, trying to understand the circuit and at least roughly understand the principle of its structure? There is a junction box under the ceiling, in which there are a bunch of incomprehensible connections, a switch near the door, a chandelier or lamp on the ceiling, and all the wires are hidden under a thick layer of plaster. Figuring out what goes where and how it all works is quite difficult. That is why, in this article, we approached this issue so seriously, analyzing in detail the entire installation from the very beginning to the end. After reading this guide schemelight switch connection won't cause you any problems.

Lighting control

Before we look at the instructions, it should be noted that there are a lot of different lighting control devices. Below is a list of the most common:

  • single-key light switch (its circuit is discussed in this article);
  • two-key light switch;
  • three-key light switch;
  • dimer;
  • switch with motion (presence) sensor;
  • single-key through passage light switch (switch);
  • two-key through passage light switch (switch).

The choice of a lighting control device occurs individually for each specific case, since any of the devices presented in the list above has its own functional features. A more detailed description, purpose and connection of each of the devices can be found in the corresponding instructions presented on our website.

Installation of pre-installation elements of the single-key switch circuit

Any scheme begins with a junction box. It is in it that all the necessary wires will soon be collected, the cores of which will be connected to each other in a certain sequence, creating a single-gang switch circuit.

In this example, a hidden wiring method is shown, in a compact form you can see what is usually under the plaster. For hidden and open wiring, the circuit for connecting the switch is the same.

We mount the socket, it is the basis for mounting the socket or switch mechanism.

In more detail, the installation of this circuit element is presented on our website in the following instructions, and.

Now, let's add a circuit breaker, it performs the function of protecting the electrical circuit from overload currents and short circuits, it is usually installed in the power panel.

For a complete picture, we lack the last element of the circuit - a lamp, we will install it a little later, and now we are moving on to the next step.

Laying the wires required to complete the one-button switch circuit

It's time for the wiring. In our example, a wire of the VVGngP 3 * 1.5 brand is used, three-core, with a cross section of 1.5 mm, designed for stationary wiring inside residential and non-residential premises.

You can read more about this brand of wire in the article, "".

Let's start the installation by laying the wire from the junction box to the socket.

In the junction box and the socket, it is necessary to leave a supply of wire for connection, 10-15 centimeters will be enough.

Now, we lay the next wire, from the junction box to the lamp.

The next wire will complete the circuit, it is designed to supply power to the circuit breaker, it goes from the electricity meter or introductory machine to the upper contacts of the machine that goes to a specific group or direction.

Attention! If you already have a power wire and there is voltage on it, then before carrying out all electrical work, it must be disconnected. After disconnecting, it is imperative to make sure that it is not on the wire, the easiest way to perform this action is to use a voltage indicator. If necessary, you can use the detailed instructions for use provided on our website in the article.

We proceed to the next stage of the implementation of the scheme, connecting the equipment.

Connecting a protection, control and lighting device

Let's start by connecting a protection device that will protect the circuit from overloads and short circuit currents. In our example, this role is played by a two-pole circuit breaker.

Also, devices such as, and voltage limiters are used as circuit protection devices. You can get to know these devices better, find out how they work and what they are intended for by clicking on the appropriate links.

Before starting the installation, it is necessary to determine the color of the wires. Our wire is blue, black and yellow with a green stripe. The blue wire is always used for zero, yellow with a green stripe for ground, white for phase.

Using a knife, carefully remove the first protective insulating layer.

Now we remove the required amount of insulation from the phase and neutral conductors for connection, about 1 cm.

We insert the stripped wire into the contact terminals and tighten the clamping screws. We check the reliability of fixing the wire by pulling it up from the contact clamp and shaking it to the left, to the right. If the wire remains motionless, the contact is good.

Similarly, we connect the outgoing wires to the junction box. Be sure to observe the color scheme of the wires, if on the suitable contacts of the machine on top, zero was on the right, then on the bottom on the outgoing contacts it should be on the right. Accordingly, the phase will be on the left.

Please note that the color of the wire on the outgoing wires has changed slightly, the phase wire has become completely white. Different manufacturers color the wire cores differently, the phase and ground wires are most often subject to changes, zero is invariably blue. I would recommend for ease of installation, in order not to get confused, use a wire from one manufacturer.

We remove the first outer insulation, measure the required amount of wire needed to connect to the machine, clean it and connect it. We check the reliability of fastening the wire in the contact clamps, if everything is in order, we move on.

We remove the insulating layer from each core.

We connect the wires to the contacts of the circuit breaker.

In our example, a three-wire wire is used, and this is no coincidence, the fact is that this wire is universal. For example, now you want to hang a lamp in the room, which is turned on by a single-key switch, but time will pass and after 3 years of regular repairs, you will want to hang not a lamp, but a chandelier. To connect it, you will need another switch, a two-gang one, and for it you need not a double, but a triple wire. Having a three-wire wire in the junction box, you can easily change the circuit by making just one additional twist. Also, if necessary, the third wire can be used as. This option is suitable if you install a luminaire with a metal case in a room with high humidity, as a rule, a ground contact is provided on such luminaires.

To connect the ground wire, we use a special contact clamp.

We measure the required amount of wire, clean and connect. We check the reliability of the contact connection.

We do the same on the outgoing contact.

The circuit breaker is connected. All the wires needed to complete the circuit are in the junction box.

We turn to the connection of the lamp. In our case, a cartridge with a light bulb is installed. We prepare the wires for connection, remove the outer insulation, measure the required amount of wire for connection.

We clean the phase and zero conductors for connection.

In the case of a light bulb and a cartridge, the ground wire is not needed, we isolate it and bend it to the side. When connecting a lamp or chandelier, do the same, you do not need to cut it off, it may come in handy in the future.

We connect the wires to the cartridge.

Now our circuit has almost acquired the proper form, to complete the picture we execute.

We clean the wires, remove the required amount of external insulation.

We do not need a ground wire, we isolate it and put it in the socket. We remove the insulation from the copper conductor of the phase and neutral wires.

Our one-button switch has plug-in contacts, this will greatly facilitate our connection.

The contact of the suitable phase is indicated by the letter "L", and the outgoing arrow is down.

We connect the white wire to the appropriate contact, the blue one to the outgoing one.

It remains to install the mechanism in the socket (mounting glass) and switch connection is completed.

For more information on how other electrical wiring elements are mounted (sockets, double switches, light switches with illumination, lamps and chandeliers), you can see.

Our scheme has acquired a general form, all the necessary equipment is connected.

Let's move on to connecting the wires in the junction box.

We analyze in detail the connection diagram, how to connect a light bulb and a switch

Let's go through the wires again.

Power wire on the left.

The wire suitable from above goes to the lamp (chandelier). In our example, on a cartridge with a light bulb.

The bottom wire goes to the switch.

We start desoldering the circuit for connecting the switch with the wire going to the switch. We clean it, remove the first layer of insulation. It is not necessary to cut the wire strongly, at least 10 cm of each wire should remain in the box.

We remove the insulation from the copper core of the phase and neutral wires, about 4 cm.

We pass to the wire that goes to the lamp. We remove the upper insulation, we clean 4 cm each on the phase and neutral wires.

Now we can start connecting the wires.

Zero to the bulb comes directly from the supply wire, and the phase is made into a gap. The switch will break it, when the power button is pressed, it will close the circuit and supply the phase to the light bulb, when it is turned off, it will open and the phase will disappear.

We connect the phase white wire going to the light bulb with the outgoing blue wire of the switch.

There are various types of wire connections, in our example we perform the connection in the simplest way, by twisting. First, twist the wires together with your fingers.

Then we stretch the connection with the help of pliers tightly twist both cores together.

We bite off the uneven tip of the twist.

In this scheme, we do not use ground wires, so we isolate them and lay them in a junction box so as not to interfere.

Now let's move on to the power wire. We clean it and prepare the phase and neutral wires for connection.

We isolate the ground wire and put it in a junction box.

Now, we bring power to the switch. We connect the phase conductor of the supply wire to the phase conductor of the wire going to the switch. We twist two white wires.

And at the end of the circuit, we connect the zero conductor of the supply wire to the zero conductor of the wire going to the lamp (lamp).

The wiring diagram for a single-gang switch is ready.

Now, we need to test the scheme in action. We screw the light bulb into the socket.

We apply voltage. Turn on the circuit breaker.

Using a voltage indicator, we check the correct connection of the circuit, make sure that we have not confused anything, there should be a phase on the phase wires, zero at zero.

And only after that turn on the switch.

The light is on, the circuit is connected correctly. We turn off the voltage, isolate the twists and put them in a junction box.

The installation of the circuit has been completed, the question of how to connect the light bulb and the switch has been disassembled and disclosed in detail.

In this work, we used:

Material

  • junction box - 1
  • socket box - 1
  • single key switch - 1
  • lamp - 1
  • wire (measured according to the specific measurements of your room)
  • circuit breaker - 1
  • ground contact - 1
  • insulating tape - 1

Tool

  • pliers
  • wire cutters
  • flathead screwdriver
  • crosshead screwdriver
  • voltage indicator

How much we saved by doing the wiring diagram with our own hands:

  • departure of a specialist - 200 rubles
  • installation of a junction box for internal installation - 550 rubles
  • installation of a ceiling lamp - 450 rubles
  • installation of an indoor socket box (brick wall, drilling, installation) - 200 rubles
  • installation of a single-gang indoor switch - 150 rubles
  • installation of a two-pole circuit breaker - 300 rubles
  • installation of a ground contact - 120 rubles
  • installation of wire open up to 2 meters (1 meter - 35 rubles), Let's take 2 meters as an example.- 70 rubles
  • installation of the wire openly above 2 meters (1 meter - 50 rubles), for example, take 8 meters - 400 rubles
  • wall chasing 8 meters (1 meter - 120 rubles) - 960 rubles

TOTAL: 3400 rubles

*The calculation is made for hidden wiring.

The wiring diagram for a light switch with one key will allow you to accurately cope with this process. In fact, the switch is a primitive device that is located on the floor and connected to the electrical wiring. Products differ in shape, design, but at the same time they all have one internal scheme.

Today we will look at the process of connecting a single-key device if repair or replacement is necessary. In order to avoid questions, we have to study several installation methods.

What is a switch and what is it for?

A switch is a simple device that can be either mechanical or electronic. The device is required to close and open the electrical circuit. This means that it turns the lamp on and off.

In this case, we will consider the configurations and installation features of the most primitive, single-gang switches. Such structures consist of the following:

  • master node- base made of metal with contacts for connection and digging;
  • fasteners- metal antennae, which are interconnected by plates;
  • outer case– panels made of plastic or other material;
  • moving part- keys.

The internal elements, at least most of them, are made of metal, most often galvanized. The outer panel is made of safe plastic. However, on sale you can find ceramic structures that can withstand a load of more than 30 A, while plastic can withstand a load of no more than 16 A.


It is necessary to highlight such reasons why it becomes necessary to install a single-gang switch:

  1. If a luminaire with one lamp is located at a distance from other light sources.
  2. Such switches are often used to control a single line. For example, a similar backlight is mounted above the table in the kitchen.
  3. Hanging lamps and miniature sconces, regardless of configuration, are connected to single-key devices.
  4. The main reason for installing the switch is the violation of the integrity of the case of the old device, which creates the danger of electric shock. In addition, sometimes internal structural elements also fail.

The device of the switch from the outside and the inside is different due to the functional features, the degree of load. So, in some models, LED backlighting is installed as an addition.


The structure of the switch: 1 is a key with which the light is turned on and off; 2 - outer frame - a decorative element; 3 - the main working unit, thanks to which the device functions

The installation of such a device will be relevant for any type of room where there are lamps without a power cable (in the case of table lamps and floor lamps, it is not installed). This connection is typical for bulky chandeliers.

In the case of choosing structures for rooms with a high level of moisture, and in particular for the bathroom, it is necessary to pay attention to the marking of the degree of protection - IP. So, for a bathroom, a device is suitable - IP-40. In the case of mounting the switch on the street, it is recommended to purchase a model - IP-55.


Varieties of switches for home use

Each manufacturer produces different models of switches, which differ both in shape and in internal structure. However, several main types should be distinguished.

Table 1. Types of switches according to the switching principle

The most popular is the first option, which is installed everywhere. Moreover, such switches have become in demand from the very beginning of the appearance of the electrical circuit. The second option is less popular, especially in our country. The third option is a modern model, which is gradually replacing outdated switches from the market.

Installing a motion sensor in the structure is advisable both in terms of energy savings and home security. For example, if you install a structure at the entrance, then the residents will notice if intruders get into the apartment.


According to the design features, there are devices with one or more keys (on average, switches with two or three buttons are used for standard electrical appliances). Each button is responsible for turning on and off a separate circuit.

So, if several lamps are installed in one room at once: the main chandelier, spotlights, sconces, then it would be advisable to install a structure with three buttons.

In addition, no less popular are devices with two buttons, which are installed in all apartments without exception. Most often they are needed for a chandelier in the presence of many light bulbs.

For a more detailed diagram of connecting a chandelier to a two-gang switch, look at

According to the installation method, there are internal and external switches. The first option is installed in the apartment, because such structures look aesthetically pleasing. For safety during installation, a special box is installed, which is called a socket box.


Recessed switches are used when there is electrical wiring hidden in the wall. Overhead devices are mounted in the presence of external conductors. In this case, the connection scheme has no fundamental differences.


Installation of switches with one button

We will consider the basic connection diagrams for devices that have a similar structure (one button), but differ in the installation method. However, all these devices work on the principle that the phase starts as a result of opening with a dynamic element. If you confuse the contacts of the phase and zero, then there is a danger to life.


What tools and materials will be needed in the process of work?

In order to connect, you will need the following tools:

  • knife for removing insulation;
  • screwdriver;
  • screwdriver-indicator;
  • pliers;
  • building level;
  • electric drill;
  • marker.

In addition, you will need the following materials:


Installing an overlay device

In this scheme, the location of the conductors is not important: they can be located on the outside or inside the ceiling. At the same time, the invoice type of the switch in the apartment is installed when it is not possible to make strobes in the wall, to prepare the channels. For example, a recent renovation may be the cause.


We will consider an example with external wiring, where the cables are laid over the floors in a special corrugation.


Under the switch there will be an additional electrical appliance - a socket, so it would be logical to place the cables of these two devices in the same protective tube.


Mounting the overhead switch: step by step instructions

Step one: Before proceeding with the installation process, it is necessary to de-energize the room. This is easy to do by lowering the switch on the switchboard, which is located on the landing or in the corridor. In order to make sure that there is no voltage, it is necessary to lean a screwdriver-indicator against the contacts.


If the light on the indicator does not light up, then there is no voltage

Step two: now you need to disassemble the structure - you should get the button. In this case, a device with a plastic case and protection against moisture is used.


Step three: now you should remove the internal node, which is the main mechanism.


Step four: Now you should mark on the wall the place where the switch will be installed. In addition, it is necessary to leave markings under the fasteners. To do this, you will have to attach an empty base from the device to the surface. Next, you need to level the case on the wall according to the level, and then put marks where the holes for the fasteners will be. After that, it remains to make recesses in the wall using an electric drill.



Step six: Now you should proceed to the wiring connection stage. To do this, it is necessary to strip the ends of the wires from the insulating layer (with a knife) by 9 centimeters. After that, it is necessary to connect the phase conductor (white) to the terminal marked "L", and the neutral conductor (blue) to the terminal marked "1". Next, carefully tighten the fasteners, and place the mechanism in the body part.


Step seven: now you need to assemble the switch, securing the button in place.


After installing the switch, you should check its operation by connecting the power in the switchboard. If after pressing the button the lamp works, it means that the installation was carried out in accordance with the rules

Video - Switch connection

How to replace an old switch: step by step instructions

Often, when repairing a residential building, it is necessary to install a new switch. Therefore, in order to understand the principle of these actions, one should consider them in more detail.

Step one: first you have to dismantle the old switch by unscrewing the two bolts on the case.


Step two: after the screws are loosened, you will need to remove the top cover.


Step three: next we have to find the phase conductor. To do this, you need to take an indicator screwdriver and alternately bring it to the contacts. At this stage, care should be taken not to touch the conductors with your hands. It is recommended to wear rubber gloves to protect your hands.


Step four: after it is possible to determine the phase and neutral wires, you will need to turn off the power at the switchboard. Next, you need to re-check the connections with an indicator screwdriver to make sure that there is no voltage. Only after checking it is necessary to proceed with the dismantling of the internal device. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the holders that are located at the edges. It is necessary to carefully dismantle the holders, and then wrap the conductors with electrical tape.


Step five: now you need to get the device, straighten the conductors to make room for mounting another switch. Next, you should take a new switch and disassemble it. You will have to dismantle the button and the outer panel in order to get the inner assembly, where there are two terminals and holders.


Step six: then it is necessary to remove the insulation from the conductors by about 10 millimeters using a knife or a special tool. After that, these wires are inserted into the holes and clamped with screws. It is recommended to tighten them with force so that it is impossible to pull them out. It is important to ensure that the insulation does not get inside.


Step seven: after connecting the wiring, return the inside of the switch to the mounting bowl.


Step eight: now it remains to attach the outer panel and the button.


Wiring diagram of a switch with a junction box

Often, new buildings are handed over to residents in the form of a concrete box with “bare” ceilings, so you have to install doors yourself, conduct electrical wiring, and deal with surface finishing. Of course, if you wish, you can use the help of a master, but it will cost more. To understand how to do the installation on our own, we will consider the connection diagram of the switch, lamp, machine and junction box.

Junction boxes perform a very important function. It is they who ensure the distribution of electrical wires between consumption points, i.e. switches, lights and sockets. Decided to install the devices listed above yourself? Then you need to thoroughly understand the features and order of connecting cables, as well as the basic methods of connecting them. you will learn about the basic ways of connecting cables and the features of opening a box.


The figure above shows a simple option - a circuit in which there is only one light bulb, a switch with one button and an outlet to the electrical panel. In our case, you still need to connect a circuit breaker.

The main goal is to install all these elements in their places so as not to confuse the conductors. In the middle, you will need to mount a junction box.


First, a circuit breaker is installed that protects the electrical network from overvoltage and short circuits. To do this, you need to connect the conductors: white - phase, blue - zero, yellow - ground. After that, the conductors will have to be carried out to the mounting box. Now you should connect them in accordance with the diagram.


Summing up

Even a novice electrician can handle connecting the switch after studying the instructions, which will significantly save the budget, as well as not waste extra time waiting for the master. The most important thing to remember is the rules of personal safety when working with electricity. We strongly recommend that you make sure that the room is de-energized, and only then proceed with all work!

Video - Switch Installation

I remember the distant school years: at the labor lesson, our entire eighth grade was involved in practical work on installing sockets and switches in a five-story building under construction, which is now called Khrushchev.

The teacher led everyone into one room, showed the built-in sockets, two wires sticking out of them, and explained what the wiring diagram for a light switch with one key (there were no others then) and sockets consisted of.

More than half a century has passed since then, but those simple knowledge and skills are still relevant, although the design of these electrical devices has undergone quite strong changes.

How the old one-button light switch wiring diagram works: 2 important principles

From that long-standing practical lesson, I remember two main instructions from my teacher:

  1. Electrical wiring should serve a person, and not create dangerous problems for him. Therefore, all future work should be considered from the point of view of eliminating any risks.
  2. The safety of the electrical circuit is ensured by reliable installation.

It is to these two questions that I will draw your attention further.

What should be considered to ensure maximum human electrical safety when working with lighting devices

The one-button switch is designed to control the lighting of one working area, regardless of the number of connected lamps.

The modern principle of electrical control of light through a household mains switch is shown in the diagram.

It also works in old buildings with Soviet wiring, made according to the TN-C grounding system. The only difference for them is the absence of a protective neutral conductor PE.

If you live in such a house, then you simply will not have the wire shown in dotted yellow-green.

Therefore, in some cases it makes sense to get rid of the backlight and remove its circuit from the block body in advance.

Rules for connecting a modern single-gang switch in 5 steps

Step #1. Taking care of your own health and personal safety

We remove the power from the section of the circuit on which we have to work. Turn off circuit breakers or fuse plugs.

Here we check the absence of voltage at the workplace and take measures against its unauthorized supply.

Step #2. Calling up the state of the wires connected to the socket

One of them should supply the phase potential from the junction box, and the second one should provide electrical connection with the fixtures.

When the master has experience working under voltage, it is permissible to check these issues with an indicator or a voltmeter. Suitable for these purposes.

Step #3. Unpacking the circuit breaker, removing the top cover

For work it is necessary to present the device of our product. I show its composition on the example of a model with two keys.

Usually, for any designs with one, two or three keys, there is a simple rule: you need to insert a thin blade of a screwdriver or knife into the gap between the key and the body and gently squeeze the top cover out of the crimp fastener with it.

On some models of cases there are special thin grooves. Some of the single-key covers can generally be removed and installed with your fingers without the use of a metal tool.

After separating the cover from the block, it is the turn of the decorative frame and spacer.

Step number 4. Wall mounting

Wires are connected to the terminals of the switching unit and fixed in one of two ways in the socket.

The parts removed from it are installed on the mounted case and the removed key covers are pressed with a little effort of the hand.

Step number 5. Load test

This final step should be carried out with full confidence that the circuit breakers are operational and will disconnect an accidental short circuit. Think again about your own safety.

Personal impressions of the installation of a Bylectrica single-gang switch of the “Style” series: where is the mistake?

The appearance of this electrical product is quite attractive both from the front and from the back. The backlight is originally inscribed in the case cover.

Switching loads are declared at 10 amperes, operating voltage is 250 volts.

After removing the case from the packaging bag, I immediately started having problems removing the cover. At first he examined it from all sides, then tried to separate it with his fingers: unsuccessfully.

He took a knife and made an attempt to squeeze the cover of the key up: it does not lend itself.

I tried quite hard, but to no avail. I did not exceed the load so as not to damage the plastic parts. After that, I began to look for instructions, but, apart from the record that the installation should be carried out by a trained specialist, I did not find anything.

I began to examine the case from all sides and noticed two pairs of plastic latches.

He disengaged them and dismantled the body.

Inside, on the cover, I saw all the inserted mechanical parts of the switch. Moreover, the caps of the terminal screws are hidden, only the ends of the threaded part stick out. The body of the switching unit is generally empty. And it should be the other way around.

The contact group that performs switching and breaking the circuit looks impressive.

The plastic lever of the button which is built in a key does a removable cover not collapsible. A spring-loaded mechanism is inserted into it, which controls the switching of the contact. I took it out in the photo.

If, when disassembling the case with a knife, I increased the force of pulling out the key, then this knot would be broken.

Designated in his own way all the components included in the design of the module.

I show the sequence of their assembly into a single housing of the switching unit. First, a fixed contact is established.

Then comes the turn of the moving contact. In this case, it must be wound with a special edge into the groove of the body. Then with tweezers I check the closing and opening of the contact group, their course and alignment of centers.

The third step is to install the backlight unit. Its lower jumper should lie tightly on the plane of the lower fixed contact.

The upper contact plate of the backlight will be connected when the power is removed from the lamp with a brass bridge.

When this work is finished, we put on the top cover. We pay attention that the spring-loaded mechanism hits the central part of the contact plate. We check by switching the key.

We press the cover into the body until it stops, so that the side latches slam shut. When they engage, it is problematic to dismantle the circuit breaker without damaging the top cover or the switching unit.

I met such interesting products from Bylectrica of the “Style” series. Electricians will obviously stop buying it after the first acquaintance and installation attempt.

Features of connecting one-button light switches with remote control

The Sonoff product model is taken as the basis for considering the modern design. This is the third modification of the electrical circuit under consideration.

After the acquisition, the Sonoff switch successfully fit into the interior of the bedroom, and I describe the main stages of installation and the difficulties that I had to face below.

What has changed in the electrical circuit of the module and how easier it is to wire: personal experience

The attached instructions immediately indicate the need to connect such a one-button working zero switch to the circuit. It is necessary for the operation of the built-in control module.

However, the current wiring in the apartment was laid back in Soviet times. Naturally, only two phase wires come to the socket. There are no other ends, and this requires additional work.

Difficulties began immediately with determining the locations of hidden electrical points and the wiring route. The initial data was the location of the lamp on the central part of the ceiling and the old switch in the corner by the front door.

The junction box, as happens in such cases, was not visible. Everything is hidden behind a layer of wallpaper. It’s good that the ceiling is the most common, and not a suspended or tension structure.

I know from experience that in such multi-storey buildings assembled from panel slabs, electrical mains can run along the shortest paths in the most unexpected places, and not strictly vertically or horizontally at right angles.

I had to use . My friend found a Woodpecker.

Its functionality, in principle, was enough for this work. I began to check the route from the switch up towards the chandelier, and from it I returned again in the opposite direction.

The device showed the shortest possible wiring from the switch along the wall to the intended location of the junction box. A straight horizontal line from the chandelier runs along the ceiling to it.

Removed the old switch. An ordinary aluminum noodle 2.5 square mm sticks out of the socket.

At the junction between the ceiling and the wall, where the Woodpecker pointed out, they removed a piece of the plinth and slightly moved a piece of wallpaper. We saw how the wiring was connected.

There is no junction box. The wires are connected by twisting with welding, wrapped with electrical tape. The entire cavity was initially filled with old clumps of newspapers, and inside it was covered with fine gravel.

I can’t show how it looked - I forgot to take a picture, I immediately rushed to clean out the cavities in order to deal with the wires.

I got about a liter of rubble, as much as I could. Part of it penetrated deep into the cavities of the main, did not allow the additional wire to be inserted freely.

I tried to push a steel wire from below the socket, but it also ran into a dead end and got stuck halfway through. There was one more fallback option that had to be used in difficult situations.

Prepared three new strands of copper to replace the old aluminum. He removed the insulation of about 10 cm from them and tightly twisted the metal with pliers into one piece. I tried to straighten the noodles and tightly wrapped the created twist with adhesive tape to the metal of its end.

From the upper cavity under the ceiling, he began to pull out the old wire, and at the same time drag the new one through. The efforts of the hands were not enough: the remnants of gravel and limited space interfered. I had to grab the noodles with the sponges of the pliers and wind them around due to the additional moment of force, acting at random.

Guess it helped. The old wire was slowly pulled out, and the new one was tightened. I bit off the twisted noodles with side cutters.

Connecting the wires below to the Sonoff module did not cause any difficulties. Everything is clear there: it is shown in the instructions and on the block body.

About managing modern lighting from different locations

After installing the Sonoff light switch in the bedroom, you can control the light not only in the usual way through the sensor, but also using:

  1. supplied remote key fob;
  2. and even via the Internet from a smartphone.

For a more detailed overview of the functions of remote light control from different places, even from anywhere in the world, I suggest watching the video clip of the iShopper owner.

Finishing the material, I emphasize once again that the scheme for connecting a light switch with one key has existed for a very long time and during this time it has undergone minor improvements related to the modernization of new equipment. On this topic, it is now convenient for you to write a comment or ask a question that we can discuss together.

Since connecting the light switch yourself is quite simple, following the diagram and recommendations will make it easy to do without the involvement of specialists.

Some difficulties may arise with the choice of device, so you must first determine the type of switch.

So, how to connect the switch is the topic of our article.

To date, there are a number of parameters of electrical communication devices that determine the classification of light switches:

  • According to the method of fixation. Devices may be screw-mounted or based on a screwless fixation system. The first option is optimally suited for devices with aluminum components and perfectly prevents sparking, overheating, and deformation of the internal filling. The second system is more suitable for using copper connections.
  • By level of functionality switches can be represented by classic, control or indicator and dimming models or dimmers. A feature of the control systems is the presence of a special indicator light that glows when the light is off. The most progressive are dimmers. This variant of the combined device allows not only turning the lighting system on and off, but also adjusting the brightness level.
  • Design features switch have a direct impact on the convenience and duration of operation. The fundamental differences are represented by the form, as well as the mechanism responsible for the performance of the device. There are models of flip, rotary and push-button type.
  • Depending on the principle functioning, switches can be cross, pass-through and touch. The first two options are mounted in conjunction. Touch devices make it possible to remotely control lighting fixtures.
  • Device installation may be hidden or external. In the first case, the laying of electrical wires is carried out inside the walls, and the second option is suitable for mounting wires in an open or external way. Although hidden switches look more attractive, external type devices are easy to maintain and convenient for repair work.

The switches also differ in the presence of an additional option, represented by different degrees of protection against moisture or dust and the presence of light indication.

It is important to remember that the number and appearance of the keys are not the determining factors when choosing the type of electrical communications device, and a significant number of mechanisms built into one case often adversely affects wear resistance and strength.

The main nuances when connecting

Switches belong to the category of functional elements of the interior, and the choice of the connection point must be approached very carefully.

Using the device should be comfortable and completely safe.

Currently, there are several main nuances that should be taken into account in the process of connecting a light switch in a residential environment:

  • installation is carried out taking into account the average height of a person, therefore the optimal height is 80 cm from the floor level;
  • access to the switch should not be blocked or blocked, and the optimal distance from interior items and the door jamb is 100mm;
  • switches to control the light in the sanitary unit, storage room and hallway, most often mounted in the corridor.

Particular attention is paid to switches for additional lighting. They can be installed in almost any area, and the main criterion for choosing a place for installation is compliance with the interior design.

In the bathroom and kitchen, as well as in other rooms characterized by high levels of humidity, switches are installed that have rubberized or reliable plastic casings.

How to wire a light switch

Independent connection of the switch to lighting, as a rule, does not cause difficulties even in the absence of practical skills in working with electrical networks.

However, there are some design features that must be considered when installing such a device.

with one key

Consider the connection diagram of a light switch with one key. Single-gang switches are the most common and easy-to-connect type of communication devices. The self-installation technology of the switch with one key is as follows:

  • turn off the power;
  • disassemble the circuit breaker housing by removing the key and protection frame;
  • determine with the help of the indicator the cores on the "phase", "zero" and "grounding";
  • determine the location of the three-wire wire coming from the electrical panel and the two-wire wire laid to the lighting device;
  • connect the wires according to their purpose;
  • insulate the contacts, then lay them in the junction box.

General wiring diagram for a single-gang switch and two lamps

At the final stage, the switch is fixed in place and assembled in the reverse order of disassembly.

Some homeowners notice that it is in their apartment or house that light bulbs constantly burn out before they have served their due date. We will understand the causes of breakdowns and try to eliminate them.

An overview and characteristics of lighting lamps are presented.

You will find fluorescent lamp connection diagrams. Connection with or without choke.

Two-key

Switches on two keys are installed if necessary to provide control of a pair of groups of lighting devices.

The technology for connecting such an electrical communication device does not differ significantly from installing a standard switch:

  • shutdown of the power supply system;
  • switch disassembly. Pry off both keys with a sharp object to remove them from the case. Unscrew the screw connection and remove the protection frame;
  • definition of phase designation;
  • stripping the ends of a three-core wire;
  • connection of the "wire-phase" to the contact marked with the letter "L";
  • connecting the remaining pair of wires to the key contacts;
  • on plug-in switches, a wire is inserted into the hole and fixed with a spring, and on screw models, a bolted connection is used;
  • checking the reliability and quality of all fasteners.

Connecting a two-button switch

At the final stage of the connection, the device is installed inside the socket and the subsequent performance testing.

It is important to remember that modular two-gang switches are distinguished by fixing the mechanisms inside a special support and then securely fixing them with screws in the socket.

passing view

This version of the light switch is characteristically distinguished by the presence of a pair of single pass-through switches, which are enclosed in a single housing. The functioning is due to the principle of "throwing" contacts, of which a pair "goes" to the input and four to the output. The technology for connecting a pass-through type switch is as follows:

  • installation of a pass-through switch in a permanent place;
  • connecting a three-core cable to lighting fixtures, taking into account "zero", "phase" and "ground".

Wiring diagram of a through lamp

At the final stage, the wires are carried out from the switch and lighting fixtures to the junction box, where they are connected.

The arc mercury fluorescent lamp is usually used to illuminate open spaces and industrial premises. Correct - a guarantee of a long service life of the lighting device.

Let's consider the principle of operation and the luminescent device.

Scheme of connecting a light bulb through a switch

How to connect a light bulb through a switch? There are several ways to power the lamp through the switch. Most often, a single lamp fixture is connected via a pair of wires to a single-button switch.

Three-arm lighting fixtures can be connected individually or in groups to a two-gang switch using three-wire electrical wiring. Separately and simultaneously control three different lamps using the installed three-gang switch.

Wiring diagram for a three-arm chandelier

What wire to use for the switch?

Soft wires are represented by a large number of thin conductors, so during the connection process they will need to ensure a strong crimp or pressing with a special tip. Cables represented by a single core are called "rigid" and cannot be used in areas with bends or strong vibrations.

It is best to use three-wire wires with an additional ground wire.

In the process of installing electrical wiring, round-shaped copper NYM cables based on a single-wire core, flexible copper PVSPVS cables made of twisted stranded annealed conductors with PVC insulation, and single-wire copper cables VVGVVG with PVC insulation are used.

Moscow manufacturers produce wires that have thicker and more reliable insulation. The main conditions for the use of cables for connecting switches are still reliable installation and full compliance with the load.

Related video

If you are going to install or change a light switch for the first time in your life, then this article is for you. We will try to explain as simply and in detail as possible what needs to be done using the example of the simplest switch - a single-key switch.

What kind of switch do you need (by type of wiring)?

Electrical wiring can be open (external) or hidden. Depending on this, different types of switches are used, they differ in their design and installation method.

Exposed wiring is most often used in houses with wooden walls. But not necessarily, it can also be used in stone-concrete houses and apartments. Additionally, it is “hidden” in a corrugated hose or in a plastic cable channel. The name "hidden wiring" speaks for itself. It is laid in the thickness of the walls and ceiling.

In the first case, a wooden plate is first installed on the wall surface, and the device is already attached to it. In the second, the switch is built into a wall-mounted plastic or metal socket.

Photos of single-gang switches for open and hidden wiring are presented in our gallery. In this article, we proceed from the fact that wiring has already been done in your house or apartment, and you just have to connect the electrical accessories.

Specifications

Standard characteristics of a household switch: it must be rated for a voltage of 220 volts (V) and a current of 10 amperes (A).

Count the number of wires

If there are two wires in open or hidden wiring, it is designed only for a single-gang switch. If there are three, you can also connect a two-key one to it, which can give you additional comfort (dimmed light) and energy savings. Naturally, a chandelier with at least two horns also relies on a two-gang switch. Accordingly, different circuits for connecting switches are used.

In the event that you make repairs in a new building, all wiring is open. If you are going to replace the old switch, before you go to the store, remove it and count the wires.

Even if you decide to put a new one-key in its place, if there are three wires, it would be better to choose a switch model that will allow you to combine two outputs into one. Otherwise, you will have to twist the wires, and this is inconvenient and unreliable. Or leave one wire leading to the lamp / chandelier unconnected. In any case, you will have inconveniences where they can be completely avoided.

This is quite an important point. Despite the fact that sellers of different levels of competence work in stores selling electrical fittings, usually their qualifications are still higher than those of the average buyer. And you can get information from them, which will be very useful later if you connect the switch yourself.

First, try to deal with the aforementioned "three-wire problem" if it exists.

Secondly, ask a consultant how to connect the wires to the switch. Now there are three main ways. Old, when the wire is pressed with a special terminal. Medium-old, when it is inserted into the hole, and then you need to tighten the screw, which will press the wire to the contact.

And a new one, in which the wire is simply inserted into the hole and it is almost impossible to get it back from there. This new method migrated from the premium segment to mid-range and economy class products a few years ago. He "cheers!" used by professionals because it saves a lot of time. But not very suitable for a beginner, who may have to rewire the switch a couple of times to achieve a perfect result.

Thirdly, ask the seller where this switch model has a phase, where is zero. And, just in case, where is the top and where is the bottom.

It is strange, but many manufacturers mark their products in a very mediocre and not very clear way for non-professionals. Some products use the letter L or number 1 to enter and the number 3 or arrow to exit. And for some, even with the switch correctly installed, the name of the company is located “upside down”.

Because of this, even professional home electricians have switches installed backwards. In order to turn on the light, the key must not be pressed, but lowered. These are notes from real life.

Required Tools

  • Switch
  • Screwdrivers curly and flat. Different manufacturers use screws for different types of screwdrivers. But even if the central screw that secures the switch cover to the body is figured, it is possible that it will be more convenient for you to tighten the screws that raise the “legs” with a flat screwdriver.
  • Sharp knife (for removing insulation).
  • Indicator screwdriver

Operating procedure

In this manual, we will try to combine the general procedure for installing a single-gang switch, both for outdoor and flush wiring.

You only have to deal with two wires. One of them is “phase”, the second is “zero”. When connected to the phase in the indicator screwdriver, the light comes on, when in contact with zero, it does not.

  • Turn off the electricity at the switchboard or otherwise de-energize the power grid.
  • If necessary, clean the wires with a knife. If they are bolted to the switch, 1 centimeter of wire must be freed from insulation. If self-clamping connections - then only 0.5 cm.
  • Remove key. You can use your hands or a thin screwdriver (an indicator one will do).
  • Remove the protective frame, which is mounted to the body either with screws or latches.
  • Install the substrate and attach the switch to it (for outdoor wiring).
  • Connect the stripped ends of the wires to the switch contacts. When screwing the screws, do not pinch so as not to damage the wire.
  • Install the case in the socket and lift the fixing “lugs” with a screwdriver. Here you need to achieve maximum contact, but do not rip off the screw heads.
  • Put the frame in place, then attach the key with your hands.
  • Turn on the machines on the switchboard and check the operation.

Photo of the installation of a single-gang switch

Loading...
Top