Flexible shingles are by far one of the most popular materials that are used in the form of roofing for roofs. There are several reasons why it has become so widespread in our market.
First, in all sorts of colors and shapes, it occupies a leading position among all types of coverage. Today, each brand of shingles is represented by at least 40-50 types of different options, so even the most fastidious buyer can always find the option he likes. Secondly, in terms of ease and speed of installation, this is also the most successful, from a technological point of view, coating option that does not require the use of special equipment and tools. Due to the low weight, the work of lifting and delivery directly to the place of work is simplified. Thirdly, having the properties of elasticity and flexibility, this type of coating can be used on any type and shape of the roof, even those with radial curvature. The last advantage, which is unique to this type of coating, is that with the advent of bituminous tiles, it became possible to implement projects of some forms of roofing that had previously been impossible to perform technologically. The affordable cost of such material should also be noted.
Before laying flexible tiles, it is necessary to perform a number of activities that are associated with the arrangement of the "roofing pie". In this article, I will consider all the stages of work related to the laying of shingles, which must be completed after the installation of the truss system is completed.
Installation of waterproofing film
The first stage of work is associated with laying a waterproofing (windproof) film. In this case, a diffusion film-membrane can be used, since the flexible tile coating does not contain elements subject to corrosion. In this regard, there is no need to apply additional measures to exclude this type of impact on the material. This class of insulation is quite widely represented on the market, but the most optimal and often used in construction is the waterproof film of the Czech company Juta, which is called Jutafoll 110-D. When buying, pay attention to the “D” marking, since this letter means that the film is waterproofing, and not, for example, is intended for use in the range of negative temperatures, unlike other markings that are intended for indoor use only. The number 110 is not so important, since it indicates the density of the film. If this parameter is higher, then this will only affect the technical characteristics on the positive side.
Installation of the membrane is quite simple. The first roll of film is rolled out along the cornice overhang across the rafters and nailed to them with pre-prepared slats. It is convenient to shoot the film with a staple gun before this. The slats will act as a counter-lattice and act as a ventilation gap between the waterproofing film and the main batten. These measures are taken to organize the circulation of the air flow, and thereby exclude the collection of moisture in hard-to-reach places. Also, given the fact that the air has good thermal insulation properties, these measures are designed to solve the problem of heating in summer and freezing of the roof in winter (the formation of ice and icicles is excluded). The height of the rails is chosen in the range of 25-50 mm, the width must be strictly equal to the width of the rafter leg. They are cut along the length of 150 cm, like the width of the film.
The rail does not reach the overlap distance of the film (an overlap of at least 12 cm is made at any joints of the membrane). In all cases, galvanized ruffed nails are used for installation, the length of which is selected depending on the thickness of the counter batten (the length must be at least + 50 mm from its thickness). On all roof ridges, the film is not brought 5-10 cm to its end due to the fact that the movement of air under the roofing starts from the cornice and ends in the ridge, therefore, such a gap is made to exit it. Between themselves, the film can be glued with double-sided adhesive tape, but this is an optional condition.
Lathing and final surface preparation
Next, the final crate is stuffed over the counter-lattice. Any board (both edged and unedged) is suitable as a material, the thickness of which is selected in the range of 25-30 mm. Before installation, the material must be dry (with a relative humidity of not more than 20%) and must be treated with a fire-bioprotective preparation. Also, when using an unedged board, it should be necessary to completely remove the bark of the tree, since in the future this is fraught with the fact that woodworms can start between the bark and the wood. The distance between adjacent boards should be no more than 30-35 cm (depending on the thickness of the board used). The length of the nail is chosen such that, when nailed, it pierces both the crate and the counter-crate and fits tightly into the rafter by at least 2-3 cm.
A feature of flexible tiles, as a coating, is that the plane of the roof before laying it must be smooth and even. Therefore, if an edged board is used as a flooring (this option is allowed by the manufacturer), then the differences between adjacent boards are not allowed more than 2 mm. This must be monitored to avoid fractures and kinks of tiles during installation.
It is better to start the installation of OSB-plates on the roof from the hip.
I recommend using a moisture resistant OSB-3 board as a flooring. Thickness, as a rule, choose 10-11mm. Unlike a board, when using it, an ideal plane is obtained, also, having moisture-resistant properties, it does not warp or warp throughout the entire service life. When laying, it is necessary to make gaps of 3-5 mm between each sheets of plates to prevent their swelling at the joints, since the linear dimensions of the material will change with fluctuations in humidity and temperature. For nailing the plates, galvanized nails 3x30 with a large hat are used. The step of nailing between nails is 25-30 cm.
Then go directly to the laying of shingles. First, lining carpets based on fiberglass are rolled out. They are an additional waterproofing material between OSB-3 board and shingles. If the angle of inclination of the roof is less than 18 degrees, then underlayment carpets must be laid on the entire plane of the roof. But even at large angles of inclination, carpets must be laid in the following places:
- On the eaves. This is one of the most critical places, especially in winter, since when snow melts, ice and icicles form in these places, and in this case, the load in the considered parts of the roof increases.
- On the fronts. Such places are most susceptible to moisture ingress during slanting rains.
- On skates and ribs.
- In valleys (junctions of roof planes). Here it is necessary to use carpets with the color tinting of the main roofing.
- In places of various connections and junctions of walls, chimneys and others.
In the valleys, the carpet is laid with an overlap of 0.5 meters.
Indents from the edge of the eaves should be about 1-2 cm, since in hot weather it is possible to heat up and straighten the lining carpets. They need to be nailed only in the upper parts at a distance of 20-25 cm, and all joints should be made with an overlap of about 10 cm. Then stainless steel eaves and gable strips are mounted. To do this, use the same 3x30 galvanized nails with a large hat. The planks are nailed in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 15-20 cm. At the joints, a mandatory overlap of 15 cm is made, fixed with two nails.
After that, they proceed to laying the first row of tiles. By standards, it has a rectangular shape (without petals). Previously, all places of contact of metal strips with bituminous tiles must be smeared with bituminous mastic. Mastic has a fairly thick consistency at room temperature, so to simplify working with it, it is necessary to preheat the container with the product. It is applied to the surface of the tile with a narrow construction spatula. The thickness of the applied layer does not exceed 1-2 mm, since it does not contain an adhesive base, and with thick seams, the smeared surfaces can simply disperse. One tile shingle is nailed with four nails at the top. If the angle of inclination of the roof is more than 60 degrees, then two additional nails must be used.
The second and subsequent rows of tiles are nailed with an offset of half a period (1/3 or 2/3, depending on the chosen shape of the tile itself). Every 3-4 rows must be checked for horizontality, or pre-marking the upcoming row (a thread with colored talc is ideal for this purpose), but this is quite painstaking work that takes a lot of time. When fitting, bituminous tiles have to be cut. To do this, it is better to use a short knife with a blade pointed at the end. It is necessary to cut off from the reverse side of the tile, placing a piece of flat board or plywood to prevent accidental damage to the previously laid tile. The mark is carried out with a knife about 3-4 times, then the shingle is bent along the cut line, and the tile is easily divided into two parts.
To work on roofs with a slope of more than 30 degrees, a number of additional measures should be taken to increase the convenience of work. The first thing you need to use when working is a safety cable or rope. The second is the use of temporary rails, which are nailed to the slope, bending the petals of the already laid tiles. Otherwise, during installation, you will have to constantly keep the rope taut, since you will not be able to stand on such slopes on your own. And thirdly, the use of overalls (construction overalls) for the competent and functional distribution of the necessary tool into pockets and loops in order to quickly access it.
In places of ribs and ridges, the tiles are installed with an overlap (the sheet run is bent 10-15 cm to another plane of the roof and nailed). Then the tile is cut into separate petals and mounted on top along the ridge line (rib), and each subsequent petal is nailed in such a way that the places of the nail heads are covered from the previous element of the tile.
There are several basic methods for laying tiles in valley areas. The first is that the elements of the tiles are laid end-to-end on both planes of the roof. The second - involves laying tiles, not reaching 10 cm to the center line. The latter method is preferable both from an aesthetic and practical point of view, since a kind of hollow is formed between the two roof slopes, which makes it easier for rainwater to drain, and thus prevents the formation of local areas in which moisture can collect in the future. In valleys, the use of nails closer than 30 cm from its center is not allowed; for this point of contact between the lining carpet and the tiles, they are smeared with mastic to a width of 10-15 cm. The upper parts of the petals of each row are carefully cut at an angle of 60 degrees.
The final stage
At the junction of walls and chimneys, the tiles are placed on a vertical plane to a height of 20-30 cm, having previously smeared the joints with bituminous mastic. Then, in the place where the tile ends, an abutment bar is installed on top of it, and all the resulting gaps are covered with a heat-resistant silicone sealant. It is advisable to install metal boxes around chimneys and pipes, using basalt-based insulation as an insulator. They significantly improve the hydrophobic properties at the joints, preventing complex sections of the roof from all kinds of leaks.
Aerators are necessary for air circulation in the inter-roof space.
At a maximum distance of 50-60 cm from the roof ridge, it is necessary to install aerators that serve to remove air from the space between the roofs and, thus, allow organizing competent air circulation. The number of aerators is selected from the following calculation: one aerator for every 25 square meters of the roof. At present, ridge aerators have also become widely used, which are a design with an air gap installed directly in the area of the entire length of the ridge. All joints and overlaps around the aerators must be treated with mastic.
It should be noted that all installation work on the tiles must be carried out at an ambient temperature of at least 15 degrees, at lower temperatures, you should use a building hair dryer, heating the tiles in places of kinks. On too sunny and hot days, it is necessary to postpone the installation of the roof, not only for the safety of one’s own health, but also because the tiles begin to melt easily, and when moving along the coating, traces and dents remain that will not look aesthetically pleasing in the future.
Today, soft roofs not only occupy a leading position in the market, but have become a real discovery for designers and architects. Many styles, individual solutions and the possibility of easy implementation on a roof with a complex structure - what more could you want? The main thing is to achieve absolute tightness between the shingles, on which the durability of the entire coating depends. And the installation of flexible tiles will be within your power, believe me, even if you are faced with this type of work for the first time!
Therefore, if you carefully read our advice, then with the help of one more person you will cover even a large roof area. The fact is that even in the factory, the shingles are prepared for gluing, applying a special solution to the bottom layer, and they even make four holes so that you know exactly where to drive the roofing nails. And now we will tell you about all the intricacies of working with a soft roof.
Once the roof frame is ready, install the vapor barrier like a continuous carpet on the inside of the roof, without gaps, and fix it to the rafters with wooden planks. On the same strips you will then fasten the inner lining of the attic.
Now take care of the vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then all the moisture will come out of it by itself, with the help of natural ventilation. But in the case of a residential attic, vapor barrier is necessary. For this purpose, an additional bar is stuffed on the rafters, a vapor barrier film is rolled out with an overlap and glued with special adhesive tape (the usual one does not fit!).
Next, from the outside, lay the selected insulation on the vapor barrier film, preferably apart. Cover with a windproof membrane on top and fix with bars, which will also later serve to create ventilation ducts.
As a result, you should get such a “layer cake”, as roofers like to call it:
We have prepared for you a detailed master class on how and in what order everything should happen:
As you can see from the above photos, it was not difficult to lay the flexible sheets on the curved lucarnes!
Step 2. Installing solid decking
For the installation of flexible tiles, a rigid solid base is required. Therefore, on the prepared crate, mount a solid carpet of plywood or OSB-boards, with a gap of 3-5 mm, which is necessary for deformation from temperature and moisture, and fix it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.
The main requirement for the base for shingles is a flat area and the ability to fix shingles with nails. For this, sheets of glued wood shavings like plywood or a tongue-and-groove board laid end-to-end are suitable. Only the board should be as dry as possible so that waves do not form during drying. But it is a big mistake to use only the crate itself under the soft roof, albeit more frequent, because already in the first season the entire roof will simply go in waves. And photos with such problems become a real asset for manufacturers who scare their customers with such mistakes.
Once the base is ready, reinforce the cornice overhang with metal strips. These are laid with an edge on the edge of the base and fastened with roofing nails, in increments of 150 mm, in a checkerboard pattern:
Step 3. Selecting and installing the substrate
Now is the time to take care of waterproofing. It is necessary in such difficult places as adjoining, joints and valleys. Here the canvases are laid from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm in the longitudinal and 15 cm in the transverse direction:
We recommend that you use a specially designed underlay, and not roofing paper or similar material, as is sometimes done. The fact is that they and the finishing roofing have different service life, and even conditions of use!
And such an attempt to save money will soon lead to swelling of the entire roofing carpet. In addition, no manufacturer will guarantee a roof that uses third-party materials in the pie.
By the way, until recently, lining carpets were practically not used in Russia, and even today many people strive to cheat. This is logical, because by the time the roof is built, it often turns out that the planned budget for the whole house is not enough, and you have to make concessions. But, if you want to lay a flexible tile roofing and forget about it for many decades, then do not give up such an important element.
There is always a risk that water will seep into the roof space, especially in difficult places such as bypassing chimneys or making contact with an installed antenna. There are also emergency situations when a strong wind lifts the shingles during a downpour.
Moreover, it is not difficult to pick up a roofing carpet, because. it is subject to the same requirements as for tiles: to be resistant to temperature extremes, provide reliable waterproofing and serve for a long time. And the modern market provides many options, both imported and domestic. Moreover, many plants in Russia today operate on European equipment and are not inferior to foreign analogues in terms of product quality.
In general, lining carpets are of two types: self-adhesive and mechanically fixed. Self-adhesive ones are laid mainly in valleys, and mechanical ones are rolled out on the remaining area of \u200b\u200bthe roof and fixed with galvanized nails:
Here is the process of installing a conventional roofing carpet, which will need to be fixed with bituminous mastic:
Here is an example of working with a more modern self-adhesive roofing mat:
So, for a valley, a self-adhesive waterproofing carpet is ideal. And, if the slopes have a slope of more than 18 degrees, then consider laying the carpet in all places of possible leaks, and these are: ribs, ridges, gable overhang and all the exits of roofing elements.
But on a roof with a slope of 12 to 18 degrees, you will need a continuous waterproofing carpet. Prior to this, we recommend putting a self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material on the cornice overhangs, for example, "Barrier", and at the same time strive to ensure that the carpet itself is without overlap - continuous along the entire length:
Also insulate ventilation passages, areas around skylights and chimneys in advance. Before the installation of flexible tiles, coat all the passage elements with bituminous mastic with your own hands - this is not difficult.
Before you start laying shingles, you will also need to reinforce the eaves. You need to fix them with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm. Here is an informative video lesson from the company on this topic:
Step 4. Selecting fasteners
To fix flexible shingles, you will need special wide-head nails. It will be extremely important to nail them so that the hat is in the same plane with the surface of each shingle, and at the same time does not “crash” into it. In addition, nails for soft tiles must be galvanized.
Nails for mounting soft tiles are divided into the following types:
- Roofing nails. They have such a sharpened point that when deepened into the bitumen layer, they do not violate its integrity. Such nails are produced galvanized or without a protective layer at all. Of course, unprotected ones are the cheapest, but at the same time they are not at all practical and quickly begin to rust. These are only suitable for assembling furniture or building temporary shelters.
- Ruffed nails. On the working rod, they have special cloves that are directed towards the cap. These are not easily hammered into the wood, although it is quite difficult to pull them out even with a nail puller. And most often, in the process of dismantling, they simply cut off the head of the ruffed nails - and that's it. They fix the roofing so firmly that they are more often used for slate than for soft roofing.
- club nails have longitudinal grooves and lintels on the working rod, and they are less suitable for soft roofing.
We recommend that you take exactly galvanized ruffed nails with a head diameter of 8-9 millimeters as roofing nails specifically for flexible tiles. They also produce special nails for bituminous shingles, and they differ from standard counterparts.
These are made of durable steel wire, which is automatically cut into equal pieces, then the workpiece is sharpened on one side, and riveted into a hat shape on the other. If you see these for sale, you can buy them.
But it is important at the same time that the nails themselves comply with GOST 4030-63: the diameter of the rod is 3.5 mm, and the diameter of the cap is at least 8 mm. The thing is that in working with concrete shingles, the most unpleasant moment is when the nails, at the next blow, simply sink into the bituminous layer and violate the integrity of the coating. But the extended hat will not be able to “drown” so easily. And the larger it is, the better it will hold the shingle, which is why high-quality nails for shingles resemble a pushpin. Moreover, for single-layer and two-layer tiles, you will need nails with parameters of 30x3.5 mm, and for a three-layer one - 45x3.5 mm.
By the way, some unfortunate builders do not understand why it is impossible to simply heat the sheets of soft tiles and stick them on the flooring, why nails and all the fuss associated with them? In fact, the use of open fire on such a roof is prohibited due to elementary fire safety considerations. So forget about this risky idea and rent an automatic device.
Step 5 Place the Starting Strip
And now we proceed directly to the laying of flexible tiles. It starts from the start line. As such, you can take:
- a pattern from an ordinary tile, for example, a shingle with cut petals, if you are working with collections " Tango" or " Trio»;
- universal ridge-cornice tiles, especially if you work with " Chord», « Sonata" or " Jazz».
If it is more convenient for you to start with the eaves shingles, lay them on top of the metal strip, stepping back a little from the place of the inflection. Next, nail it with nails, but keep in mind that the longer and steeper the slope, the greater should be the indent from the bend:
This is how laying the starting strip looks in practice:
Step 6. Installation of different types of shingles
Now let's unpack the shingles. The main requirement for their installation is dry, warm weather, because it is undesirable to lay bituminous tiles at temperatures below + 5 ° C, because. in areas where it will need to be bent, it will be difficult to do without cracks.
If you still have to fasten the shingles in such conditions, then prevention will be needed: the sheets are heated with a building hair dryer and bent on a metal pipe about 10 cm in diameter. But it's better not to do that.
Calculating the required number of shingles is not difficult: take one sheet, measure the area that will be visible, find out the area of \u200b\u200bthe slope and divide the second by the first. Here is a valuable tip on how to calculate and prepare flexible shingles for installation:
Of course, if you have a diamond eye, then detailed calculations can be dispensed with, but marking lines serve as excellent guides along which you can align the tiles both vertically and horizontally. Especially if you are laying a soft roof for the first time.
Believe me, tearing off a few sheets and attaching them again to fix a jamb is not the most fun thing. And absolutely without marking, if some element is embedded in the roof or the general geometry of the ramp is broken. In this case, you will be helped by such tools as a beating, a plumb line and a level.
As we have already said, for convenience, ready-made shingles are usually marked with small holes at the factory so that you know exactly where to hammer nails. If there are none (for example, the cheapest collections), then just step back 2-3 cm from the edge and be guided by this illustration:
In each case, the place where the nail is driven will directly depend on the shape of the cutting of the tile itself. It is only important that each nail pierces both the lower and upper edges of all sheets at the same time, and if you are laying flexible tiles on slopes with an angle of 45 °, then the upper corners of the shingle also need to be additionally fixed.
The whole procedure for laying flexible tiles is not complicated, here are the instructions for the process itself:
- Before laying, mix the shingles from several sticks to minimize color variation. The fact is that even in one mail the color can differ so much that you will be surprised, and such incidents will be very noticeable on the roof.
- If the slope is long enough, start laying tiles from its center and align it horizontally. And the second row - already shifting the shingles to the left or right by half a sheet. Move the third and all subsequent rows relative to the previous one, also half the petal, to the left or right, depending on which direction you chose initially.
- You need to start laying tiles on a slope with a smaller slope, while you should enter a steeper slope by at least 30 cm. On a steeper slope, it is recommended to beat off the chalk lines so as not to go astray. Now cut the tiles on a steeper slope along this new line, and after fixing, coat with bituminous mastic where there is no self-adhesive layer on the back side.
- Lay the tiles from the bottom up, stepping back from the edge of the drips. Here it will be necessary to lay a special ridge-cornice tile. By the way, you can replace it with a regular one if you cut the petals.
Now secure the shingles. An automatic tool is good for this, especially if it works from the mains. Most importantly, when choosing a model, take care of your own safety: the trigger must be comfortable, with protection against accidental firing and the ability to remove a stuck nail without any risk. After all, usually a hammer is more intended for small household chores, and professional roofers rarely use it.
The only point: if special roofing nails do not fit the gun, take a ready-made clip with nails with a wide flat head. They differ in that they are interconnected by a thin wire. Here such a tape is inserted into the chamber and the nail is fed one by one. This is much more convenient when working at height: no need to look for bunches, no need to put your fingers under the blow, and the fastening itself will be of better quality than when you are already too tired on the 501st nail. The main thing is to follow the basic technology: the nail must be driven in strictly perpendicular to the plane of the shingle.
Remember, if some shingle was fixed unreliably, then over time it will loosen its fastening and fly off with a gust of wind. And the nail itself, lifted from the wind, will tear the sheet, loosening the neighboring one. And all this will lead to leakage and the necessary repairs. Of course, it will not be possible to completely do without problem areas, which is why a periodic inspection of such a roof is needed.
Now consider the features of mounting shingles of different types. So, with a single-layer tile, before installation, you need to remove the protective film, which is always located on both sides of the shingle. Why is she? The fact is that this roofing is transported by ordinary trucks both in the heat and in the heat, but we are still talking about bitumen.
But in collections with such cuts as " dragon tooth”, there is no film, it is only important to choose a beautiful pattern or lay it randomly, simply by mixing the shingles.
And how exactly to work with each type of shingle cutting, the following illustrations will help you:
Further, if you have to work with a complex roof, you have two ways of laying shingles: segmented and seamless. In the first method, divide the corner or cone into equal segments, and lay out each of them separately. And in this way, cover the entire roof. The seamless method is already more complicated: here it is important to make the correct markup of the slope and navigate along it. Think and choose the one that seems more convenient to you.
Step 7. Fixing the tiles in the valleys
And now - about the most problematic places of the roof. Valleys, namely the internal bends of the roof, you can organize in two ways: open and closed, which is also called the undercut method. The main thing then is to make a triangular rail at the junction of the roof with the wall and put tiles under it.
In addition, if the wall is brick, it must be plastered and treated with a bituminous primer. The upper part of the junction should then be closed with a metal apron, which must be fixed and inserted into the strobes, and then sealed:
Step 8. Laying ridge and back tiles
Next, we will deal with the concepts of ridge tiles. As you might guess, these are the shingles that cover the ridge of the roof. All other tiles are called ordinary. By the way, spinal tiles are obtained when the ridge-eaves are divided into three parts, or they are cut out from the usual ordinary by perforation.
To properly lay the back tiles, with the help of a cord, beat off the dimensions of the future ridge - these are two strips along it, and lay the back tiles from the bottom up. Then fix the shingles with nails on each side and make sure that the overlap of the overlying shingles overlaps the nails by 5 cm.
The ridge tiles are laid from the side that is opposite to the so-called wind rose (you can find out about this from your neighbors or from the wind map). Further - everything is the same as during the laying of the ridge. If there is no self-adhesive layer in the right places, coat it with mastic.
Now let's move on to the ribs. Here, ordinary tiles should be cut so that a distance of 3 to 5 mm remains between adjacent slopes:
Here is another great tutorial where you can go over the details of the process:
And finally, finishing work. The laying of flexible tiles is always completed by installing a ridge aerator. To do this, a special groove is cut out along all the slopes, and an aerator is inserted into it. It is fixed with nails and covered with specially ridge tiles.
Also, for a soft roof, special additional elements are made - these are the lower parts of the roof passages, which are popularly called "skirts". And so that snow does not accumulate behind the ventilation and chimney pipes, especially when their cross section exceeds 50x50 cm, you need to organize a groove. In short, you will need the following items:
So, your roof is ready, and it remains only to properly care for it. To do this, once every six months, use a soft brush to sweep all small debris from the roof, leaves and branches. The main thing is not to use sharp tools, because it is important not to scratch the basalt chips. And clean the gutters and funnels from time to time.
Luckily, shingle roofing is highly maintainable: just warm up the damaged area, remove it, and lay new tiles. A matter of one day!
Roofing materials based on flexible bituminous coatings can serve as an alternative to traditional slate, metal profiles, ceramic tiles. If do-it-yourself flexible tile roofing is installed in accordance with the rules developed by the manufacturers, the aesthetic appeal and reliability of the coating are ensured. How to do the work with your own hands will be discussed in this article.
The main differences between flexible tiles
Flexible tile is a material similar in structure and composition to roofing material. At the base is a fiberglass canvas impregnated with bitumen. The shape of the tile is slabs (shingles) with figured petals along the edge. On the back side there is a sticky layer for gluing to a continuous crate, and fine mineral chips are applied on the front side. Additional fastening with nails is provided. After laying, the coating becomes monolithic as a result of the sintering of individual elements under the sun's rays.
As a result of the improvement of the latter, flexible tiles acquired the following qualities:
The manufacturer's instructions (which should be read after purchasing the coating) contain basic information on how to properly mount shingles.
For work, you should choose a warm season at a temperature of +5 ° C. Otherwise, the plates will not stick together with the crate and with each other. At low temperatures, shingles become brittle.
If installation must be performed in winter (for partial replacement of the coating), the plates are kept in a warm room for at least a day. After laying, the tiles are heated with a building hair dryer, and the joints are sealed with bituminous mastic.
Do-it-yourself installation of flexible tiles (video on the topic - at the end of the article) is performed for roofing systems with a slope angle of at least 11.3 °. Otherwise, the melting snow slows down and leaks are inevitable. Under such conditions, the service life of the coating is reduced.
Step-by-step description of the installation of shingles
Regardless of the manufacturer, the method of laying shingles is the same for any coating and consists of the following steps.
Preparatory stage for the installation of flexible tiles
Making the valley with lining waterproofing 1. Preparation of the base. It is necessary to create a continuous crate from edged boards, FSF plywood foxes or OSB boards. It is important to achieve a completely flat and solid surface. Board materials (moisture resistant plywood, OSB) are laid with offset rows to avoid cruciform joints. Between the plates leave a compensation gap of about 3 mm.
2.Ventilation device. It is necessary to provide for the presence of vents - gaps between the counter-lattice and the crate. Between bituminous tiles and insulation, covered with vapor barrier material, there must be space for air circulation. Vents or ridge aerators in the upper area of the roof should provide an outflow of water vapor.
3. Laying an additional waterproofing lining. It is recommended to choose material from the same manufacturer as the shingles. Installation begins at the bottom of each overhang and moves towards the ridge. In this case, the upper strip must be laid with an overlap on the lower one by at least 10 cm. Tightness is ensured by bituminous mastic, which is applied to the junction. In the area of pipes, the waterproofing should extend at least 20 cm onto the vertical surface. The valleys are covered with a continuous strip of insulation. If it is necessary to join two strips, the joint is arranged in the upper part with an overlap of 20 cm.
4. Protection of overhangs and gables. The edges of the roof must be closed with metal strips. They are mounted on top of the waterproofing. Adjacent elements must be installed with an overlap of 50 mm. Fasteners at the junction points should be more frequent - every 2-3 cm. The front bar should overlap the eaves at the junction points.
5. Arrangement of passages for antennas, ventilation pipes. For this, special cornice penetrations and aprons are used, details are cut out of the valley carpet, and protection is cut out of galvanized sheet iron. Docking points are treated with bituminous mastic and silicone sealant.
Roof edge trim Important: a solid crate of plywood sheets and OSB boards is attached along the edges of the roof with an interval of 10 cm, at the junction of the boards (on the rafters) - 15 cm and on the intermediate rafter legs - 30 cm.
Laying shingles
In order for the coating to not have to be corrected after installation, a scheme for laying flexible tiles is first prepared. This will allow you to arrange the rows of plates evenly. Marking is carried out with a cord: horizontal lines are applied in 0.8 m increments and vertical lines in 1.0 m increments. It should be borne in mind that the lines should not set a clear order for laying shingles, they are necessary to correct the direction of the rows.
The laying of bituminous tiles is carried out in compliance with the following rules.
Tiled packages are selected randomly: this will help to avoid contrasting shades of neighboring elements.
Stepping back 20 mm from the edge of the cornice strip, cornice tiles are laid. Ordinary tiles with pre-cut petals can be used as starting elements. The sticker is made after removing the protective tape from the adhesive layer and treating the rest of the places with mastic.
Eaves shingles are fixed with roofing nails (fastening pitch corresponds to the width of the petal) in four places. For roofing systems with a large slope angle, additional fastenings are required: two more nails are driven into the edge of each sheet.
Laying the next row is carried out with the petals offset so that they overlap the recesses and joints of the shingles of the previous (lower) row.
Important: plastic elements are laid on top of the ridge beam to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space.
Finishing with flexible tiles of difficult areas
Complicated sections of the roof, in addition to passages for antennas, cables and chimneys, can be considered the following:
areas near the end strips;
Methods for sealing the roof in these areas.
Novice roof installers may have questions about how to make manholes on flexible tiles. Manholes are necessary not only for installation, but also for the repair of roofing. There are several options for solving the problem.
Soft roofing is a term that combines a range of flexible roofing materials with excellent consumer qualities. Its piece and roll varieties flawlessly protect the house from atmospheric "misfortunes" and effectively decorate the exterior. They weigh little, do not require effort in cutting and fastening. Among the pluses, the ability to lay the coating with one's own hand appears solidly.
For an ideal result, it is not necessary to have the skills of a roofer. You need skill, patience, a tool and information about how the technology of laying a soft roof differs from other methods and how to properly arrange a roof.
Materials from the group of soft roofing are modified versions of the good old roofing material. New developments borrowed from their predecessor the flexibility and lightness that rightfully top the list of advantages. They retained unshakable water-repellent properties, thanks to which the wooden base and truss system last longer. The composition has improved, due to which the terms of the impeccable work of materials have increased threefold.
With a focus on the laying method, the class of soft roofing is divided into three types:
- Roll materials, supplied in the format corresponding to the name. These include bituminous descendants of roofing material and new representatives, such as polymer membranes. Roll coverings are laid in strips. Bituminous materials are fastened by fusing, polymeric materials - by partial or complete gluing. With their help, they mainly equip flat and sloping roofs with slopes up to 3º, up to 9º is acceptable. Rolls are in demand mostly in industrial construction;
- Roofing mastics supplied ready-made or cold to be heated. They are sprayed or applied in a thick layer on flat roofs, resulting in a monolithic coating without seams. Reinforcing mesh is used for reinforcement. The scope of application is limited to flat roofs.
- bituminous tiles supplied in flexible shingles. In fact, this is an improved roofing material, cut into relatively small sheets. The edge of the shingles is decorated with figured petals to imitate a ceramic prototype. The back side is equipped with an adhesive strip designed to be attached to a wooden base. Glue piece by piece. Additionally, roofing nails or self-tapping screws are hammered into each shingle. From the heating of the bituminous roof by the sun's rays, the tiles are sintered and turned into a continuous roofing shell.
In private low-rise construction, a piece variety is actively in demand, because. flat and low-pitched roofs over one- or two-story residential buildings are built extremely rarely. Household buildings have a “flat” fate, but not every owner decides to buy membranes and mastics for the roof of a barn. So, we will pay attention to the installation of the most popular shingles.
Step by step installation of shingles
Roofs with any steepness and degree of architectural complexity are covered with piece flexible material. True, bituminous tiles are not recommended for roofing if the angle of inclination of the slopes is less than 11.3º. The material is produced by numerous manufacturers. Each of them strives to impart unique qualities and properties useful to the stacker to their own products.
Despite some differences, the soft roofing technology is carried out according to the same scheme. There are small nuances, but they are not fundamental.
Foundation preparation rules
Flexibility is an advantage and a disadvantage of bituminous coating. On the one hand, it allows you to noticeably speed up the process. After all, it takes a little time and a minimum of effort to form junctions, sinking pipes, arranging valleys and cornices. On the other hand, due to the flexibility of the material, a continuous batten is required so that the flexible shingles rest completely on a solid, even base.
You can build a continuous crate before installing a soft roof:
- from OSB-3 boards, recommended based on budget cost and sufficient strength;
- from sheets of moisture-resistant plywood with the FSF marking;
- from grooved or edged boards, the moisture content of which should not be less than 20%.
The sheet material is laid in a masonry-type run-out. It is important that there are no cruciform joints. It is necessary that the weak areas of the joining of the plates are evenly distributed over the counter-lattice. In the seams, gaps of 2-3 mm should be left, which are required for the free movement of the truss system during temperature fluctuations.
Plank flooring is installed parallel to the roof overhangs. Also in a run, if the length of the board is not enough for the slope. The place of joining of two boards on the slope should be supported on the beam of the counter-lattice, four nails should be hammered into it. Ordinary boards are fixed with two nails on both sides. They must be laid so that there is a gap of 3-5 mm between the longitudinal elements. Edged boards are sorted before work. Those that are thicker should be distributed at the base of the ramp, those that are lighter should be sent up.
Ventilation is the key to perfect service
The excellent water-repellent properties of the bituminous coating are due to the scanty number of pores that can pass moisture and air. Reliable hydro-barrier acts in both directions. Raindrops do not penetrate inside the roof structure, but steam does not come out. If you do not provide a free path for evaporation, condensate will accumulate on the wooden roof trusses and the crate. Those. a fungus will start, because of which you will have to say goodbye to a solid roof.
In the name of long-term flawless service, it is necessary to arrange a roof ventilation system, including:
- vents designed for air flow in the area of cornices. In addition to the inflow, they are required to ensure the free movement of air from the bottom up along the planes of the slopes. The vents are open channels formed by a crate and a counter-crate;
- ventilation gap between the bituminous roof and the insulation laid on top of the vapor barrier. It is intended for washing with an air stream of a heater;
- holes in the upper zone of the roofing cake. These can be either ends of the slopes that are not closed at the top, or specially arranged vents with a plastic barrel resembling a miniature chimney.
Ventilation must be arranged in such a way as to exclude the formation of air sacs in the under-roof space.
Laying an insulating carpet
It is highly recommended by all shingle manufacturers without exception to lay an additional waterproofing mat before installing the shingles. The list of materials suitable for carpet is usually indicated in the briefing. The product specified or equivalent in terms of characteristics is approved for use.
Replacement is highly undesirable, tk. a compound that is incompatible with the coating will prevent the bituminous layers from coalescing into a monolith and will promote swelling. Polyethylene is excluded. Ruberoid too, because the service life of a flexible roof is longer. It is unreasonable to lay a less durable material under a coating designed for 15-30 years of operation.
The technology of laying an insulating carpet under flexible tiles includes two options, depending on the steepness of the roof:
- Installation of a solid carpet on pitched roofs with a slope angle from 11.3º / 12º to 18º. Roll waterproofing is laid in strips, starting from the overhang, moving towards the ridge. Each strip laid on top should overlap the previous strip with its own ten cm. If you need to join two segments in one row, they are laid with an overlap of 15 cm. The overlap is carefully, but without fanaticism, smeared with bituminous mastic. The insulation strips are fastened to the base with roofing nails every 20-25 cm. On top of the solid carpet, strips of barrier water-repellent protection are laid in the valleys and on the overhangs, as well as around the roof junctions. Then the ridge and convex corners of the roof are equipped with the original insulating material;
- Laying partial insulation on pitched roofs with a slope of 18º or more. In this case, the valleys and overhangs are protected with bitumen-polymer material, and only the edges of the gables, the ridge and other convex corners are covered with insulating carpet strips. Insulation, as in the previous case, borders the intersections of the roof with pipes of communications and roof junctions. The width of the bitumen-polymer barrier along the overhangs is 50 cm, in valleys it is 1 m, so that each of the protected slopes has 50 cm. When laying around junctions and pipes, the insulating strip is partially led onto the walls so that 20-30 cm of the vertical surface overlap with the material.
The device of a flexible roof with partial waterproofing is allowed by manufacturers, but among them there are no ardent supporters of this method. Naturally, precipitation is less delayed on steep slopes, but the circumstances are different: ice, slanting rain, etc. Better to be safe.
The bitumen-polymer carpet for the valleys is selected to match the tiles. A slight deviation from the color of the coating is allowed if there is a desire to emphasize the lines of open grooves. It is desirable that the valleys are covered with a continuous strip of barrier insulation. But if the joining of two pieces cannot be avoided, it is better to arrange it in the upper part of the roof with an overlap of 15-20 cm. There is the least load. The overlap must be smeared with bituminous mastic.
Protecting gables and eaves
The perimeter of the roof is equipped with metal strips. They are needed to protect the weakened sections of the crate from moisture and as roof design elements. The slats are laid on the edge of the gables and overhangs with an edge. The rib line must match the outline line of the roof. Fasten with roofing nails in a zigzag pattern after 10-15 cm.
If it becomes necessary to join two planks, they are laid with an overlap of 3-5 cm, at least 2 cm. The gable planks overlap the eaves at the corners of the roof. In places of end and docking overlaps, fasteners are driven in after 2-3 cm.
Most resilient roof manufacturers advise installing both types of metal protection over the underlayment. However, the developers of the Shinglas brand recommend that the cornice strips be placed under the carpet, and the gables on top of it. Before installing the pediment and cornice planks on the plank sheathing, they also advise first nailing the bar, and attaching a metal protection to it.
Formation of passages through the roof
Chimneys crossing the roof, communication risers, antennas, own ventilation openings need special arrangement. They create a potential hazard in the form of an open path for water leaks. Therefore, before installing the coating, the places of the roof penetration are covered with sealing devices or systems. Among them:
- Rubber seals designed to close points of small diameter. Antenna holes, for example;
- Polymeric passage elements used for equipping roof intersections with sewer and ventilation risers. They are produced specifically for the arrangement of roofs. Passers are fastened with corny nails to a continuous crate. Bituminous tiles are laid on top, which in fact are cut around the passage and fixed with bituminous mastic;
- Plastic adapters for own roof ventilation. The holes are closed with vents, a ridge element with channels for evacuating fumes, and perforated fixtures for cornices.
The rules for arranging the passages of large chimneys should be considered separately. In addition to the threat of leaks, they are also a fire hazard. Chimneys are sealed in several stages:
- the walls of the pipe are protected by parts cut from asbestos-cement slabs according to its actual dimensions;
- along the perimeter of the pipe, a triangular bar treated with flame retardant is mounted. To make it, you can split a bar diagonally. A skirting board is suitable for replacement. The bar for arranging the chimney is not attached to the crate! It must be fixed on the walls of the pipe;
- lay flexible tiles, winding the shingles on the bar;
- details are cut out from the valley carpet according to the size of the pipe with the installed bar. The width of the parts is at least 50 cm. Patterns are fastened with a 30 cm lead to the pipe walls with glue or bituminous mastic. First, the front part is glued, then the side parts, and finally the back part. The lower edge is placed on top of the laid tiles, the upper edge is inserted into a stab on the pipe wall;
- at the end, the multilayer insulation system is fixed by installing a metal apron with the treatment of the joints with silicone sealant.
There is a simpler and cheaper way: the details of the insulating lining of the pipe are not cut out of the carpet, but directly from galvanized metal. Then half of the stages of work will disappear by itself.
Wall junctions are sealed in a similar way. Only there is no need to install asbestos-cement protection, and the surfaces to be protected must be plastered and treated with a primer before arrangement.
Rules for laying cornice shingles
In order to create guidelines for the installer, it is better to pre-mark the roof with coated building cord. Horizontal lines are applied with a step equal to five rows of flexible tiles. Verticals are beaten off with a step of one shingle.
After preparing and marking the roofing surface, you can safely start laying flexible tiles, following the algorithm:
- the cornice row of tiles is mounted on the overhang first. You can take a special ridge-cornice tile or cut out the starting element with your own hands by cutting the petals of an ordinary ordinary tile. It is necessary to retreat 0.8-1 cm from the edge of the metal cornice strip and glue the cornice shingle. For gluing from the adhesive layer, you need to remove the protective tape, and coat the remaining places with mastic;
- the laid cornice tiles are fixed with roofing nails in increments equal to the width of the petal. The wide hat of the hardware when hammering should be strictly parallel to the surface of the continuous crate. Skews are not allowed. Nails are hammered, stepping back from the upper edge of the shingle 2-3 cm. Fixation points should overlap with the next row of roofing;
- the first row of shingles is laid. It is better to start from the center of the slope, so that it is easier to align horizontally. 1-2 cm should be retreated from the bottom line of the starting row and glued in an already tested way. Nailed with four nails at a distance of 2-3 cm from the groove between the petals;
- installation of the second row is also more convenient to start from the middle. But the shingle must be shifted so that the tab is above the groove of the first row of tiles and the attachment points are completely closed;
- the upper corner of the tiles laid next to the pediment is cut off in the form of an equilateral triangle with sides of 1.5-2 cm. pruning is needed to break the water.
You can continue laying shingles in a linear fashion, i.e. stacking the entire row, one after the other. It is possible according to the pyramidal method with “building up” from the middle of the slope to the edges or diagonally.
Two ways of arranging a valley
Two methods have been developed for the formation of the valley:
- Open groove device. Ordinary tiles are laid up to the axis of the valley on both adjacent slopes. Only nails stop hammering already at a distance of 30 cm from the axis. After laying with a coated cord, the valley lines are beaten off on the slopes, along which the coating is carefully trimmed. The width of the groove is from 5 to 15 cm. In order not to cause damage to the soft roof during cutting, a plank is placed under the tiles. The corners of the tiles located near the valley are cut to repel water, then the back side of the coating elements is coated with mastic and glued.
- Closed groove device. Tiles are laid first on a slope with the smallest slope so that approximately 30 cm of material is located on an adjacent slope. At the top, the shingles are fastened with nails. After that, the second slope is covered, then a line is beaten off on it, stepping back from the axis of 3-5 cm, along which cutting is made. The corners of the tiles are cut to repel water, after which the cut loose elements are glued to the mastic.
The nuances of laying tiles on the ridge
Upon completion of the installation of tiles on the slopes, they begin to equip the ridge. The ventilation channels in the body of the crate must be left open, so a gap of 0.5-2 cm is left between the tops of the slopes. To ensure ventilation, the skate is equipped with a plastic aerator. It is not very attractive, therefore, for the sake of aesthetics, it is decorated with universal ridge-cornice tiles or tiles cut from shingles.
Nail the tiles with 4 nails. Each subsequent element must cover the fasteners of the previous one. Tiles are mounted on the ridges from the bottom up. The ridge is arranged in the direction of the prevailing winds so that the open areas turn to the leeward side.
In detail, the process of installing a soft roof with explanations of the step-by-step laying technology will demonstrate the video:
No special difficulties were found in the construction of a soft roof. There are technological features. If they are strictly observed, styling can be done independently with excellent results.
The article contains information about the technology of roofing with bituminous tiles. The device of a roof made of soft tiles, the technology of laying bituminous shingles and the nuances of the installation process are disassembled. Having mastered the information received, you will know what and in what sequence the masters will do and ask the right questions that will show that you understand the topic.
Roof covered with soft tiles Source 999.md
Online roof calculator
To find out the approximate cost of various types of roofing, use the following calculator.:
Lathing for soft tiles
It is necessary to start with the analysis of the crate. Since bituminous tiles are flexible and thin material, lying on any plane exactly repeats all its forms. Therefore, the installation of a flexible roof is carried out only on a continuous crate, assembled either from boards, or from sheet or plate materials, for example, from moisture-resistant plywood or OSB.
The board lathing is laid on the roof truss system, leaving a gap of 1 cm between the boards. This is the so-called compensation gap in case of moisture and temperature expansion of lumber.
Plywood and OSB boards are laid on a sparse crate of boards 20-25 mm thick and 100 mm wide. The installation step of the boards depends on the size of the stacked sheets or slabs. For example, if plywood 125x125 mm is selected for a solid crate, then the installation step of the crate elements should be within 70 cm. That is, the plywood sheet should lie on three boards, at least.
Solid plank sheathing Source krysha-expert.ru
And two important points:
a gap of 1 cm is left between the stacked plates or sheets;
the panels are laid with an offset of half the element, thus achieving a uniform distribution of loads on all sheets (plates).
Flexible tile installation technology
Like all construction processes, the laying of bituminous tiles is divided into two stages: preparation, and direct installation of roofing material.
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer roofing services of any complexity. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
Preparatory work
The first preparatory operation is the installation of a drip. This element, made of painted galvanized steel sheet, is a corner up to 3 m long. The width of each shelf varies between 15-25 cm. .
The dropper is attached to the crate with roofing nails, which are hammered into the upper shelf in a checkerboard pattern every 15 cm. Neighboring planks are overlapped with each other with an offset of at least 3 cm.
Installation of roofing (lining) carpet
First, what is a roofing carpet. This is a roll material from the category of bitumen-polymer. It is laid on the crate in order to:
Align minor defects of the lathing laid on the rafters.
Increase the waterproofing qualities of the roofing.
Prevent the formation of condensation on the wooden deck.
So, the technology of laying soft tiles on the roof begins with the installation of roofing material. First of all, it is laid in strips on valleys and cornices. But you need to start with the valleys. The lining material has a width of 1 m, so it is laid out so that it covers the slopes from the valley in two directions of 50 cm. At the same time, this type of material is self-adhesive, so the crate under it is not treated with adhesives.
Lining material laid on the valley Source gorizont-k.ru
On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses in the decoration of which the ventilated facade technology was used - from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
Then lay the coating on the overhangs along the eaves. At the same time, the vertical hanging shelf of the dropper is half covered. Next, the remaining open area of \u200b\u200bthe roof slope is covered with rolled material. Here are a few nuances:
the strips of the roofing carpet are laid on the already laid ones (on the eaves and on the valley) so that the horizontal joints are overlapped by 10 cm, vertical by 15;
galvanized nails are hammered into each laid strip in places of overlap, that is, the fastener caps must remain under the edge of the adjacent strip, the fastener pitch is 20-25 cm;
the strips of the lining carpet, which cover the main part of the slope, are laid perpendicular to the eaves and the roof ridge, starting from the bottom, rolling the roll up;
each strip is fixed around the perimeter with nails;
to increase the sealing of the joints, the edges of the strips are coated with bituminous mastic.
Laying lining material on the roof slope Source eltctricon.ru
After the roofing carpet is completely laid, the gable strips are mounted. They close the edges of the laid material along the slope and will subsequently prevent moisture from penetrating under it. Installation of slats is carried out in exactly the same way as in the case of cornice elements.
Now it is necessary to strengthen the waterproofing qualities of the valley, because this element is subjected to the greatest loads from rain and melting snow. To do this, use a valley carpet - a roll-type material made on the basis of a rubber-bitumen composition reinforced with a polyester mesh. It is matched to the color of bituminous tiles.
It is simply laid out on a valley, glued to the lining carpet with bituminous mastic, which is applied under the edges of the material 10 cm wide. An additionally laid strip is punched along the edges with roofing nails. The step between the fasteners is 20-25 cm, the indent from the edges of the strip is 3 cm.
Installation of bituminous tiles
The preparatory stage of the installation of roofing tiles is completed. You can go directly to laying the roofing material itself. The first operation at this stage is the installation of the starting tiles.
In principle, where to start laying (from the middle of the eaves or from the edge), there is no difference. But experts recommend that with long cornices, installation should begin from the middle. Thus, it is easier to level the starting strip horizontally.
What is the start line. This is the same ordinary tile, in which the petals are cut off. Although many manufacturers produce a universal element that covers the roof eaves and its ridge.
Laying the starting strip is carried out along the eaves, stepping back from the edge of the overhang 1.5-2 cm. At the same time, it must necessarily cover the gable strips with its edges. This item is a self-adhesive material. But it must be pierced with roofing nails in the corners and along the perimeter every 20 cm, stepping back from the edges of the strip 2-3 cm. smeared with bituminous mastic.
Installation of the starting strip Source eltctricon.ru
Installation of ordinary tiles
The main requirement for laying the first row of soft tiles is an indent from the lower edge of the lining carpet, equal to 1 cm. An important requirement is the correct nailing of the material. The fastener should not cut into the roofing material, it should press it against the crate. Therefore, it is impossible to nail strongly or do it obliquely.
At the same time, each bituminous tile is nailed with four nails. The place of clogging is 2.5 cm from the upper edges of the petals. This is done so that the nail heads remain under the soft tile roofing element laid on top. If the angle of inclination of the roof slope is more than 45 °, then the roofing material is pierced with six nails.
Now, with regard to the layout of ordinary tiles. It all depends on the model of the material used. For example:
the Jazz model is laid regardless of the location of the petals;
model "Trio", "Sanata" are mounted with an offset of half the petal.
Laying and fastening ordinary tiles Source eltctricon.ru
Valley design
First of all, a valley zone is formed into which nails cannot be hammered. This distance is 30 cm in each direction from the axis of the valley. This is the most vulnerable place, where the accumulation of water is always large. Therefore, it is forbidden to make any holes in this area.
But the tiles themselves are laid, closing the valley area with a small gap of 5 cm. Only in areas where nails cannot be used, bituminous mastic is used. Therefore, these areas are treated with it, applying a width of 10 cm, and the tiles are laid.
Decoration of the pediment
Here the technology is the same:
installation is carried out so that a gap of 1 cm remains from the edge of the laid plank to the roofing material;
flexible tiles are glued to the base and the metal strip with mastic and at the same time fastened with nails.
Connection to the pipe
Chimney, ventilation pipes - elements that are necessarily present on the roofs. The most dangerous area is the junction of these pipes with the roofing material, so it must be hermetically sealed.
To do this, make a pattern of valley material or sheet iron coated with protective paint. But first, the walls of the pipes are closed around the perimeter with sheet metal, which is attached to the pipes with self-tapping screws. The height of such a plinth should be 30 cm.
A strip 50 cm wide is cut out of the valley carpet. It is laid near the pipes so that it covers the plinth (30 cm) and the laid bituminous tiles (20 cm). The method of fastening the strip is bituminous mastic.
An important point. First, the lower side of the pipe is closed in this way (meaning the lower side along the slope), then the two side ones go to the bottom, and at the end the top side goes to the side ones.
Next, the tiles themselves are laid, smearing the laid valley material with mastic. On the sides of the pipe, the tiles are laid so that it does not reach 8 cm from the pipe. It remains only to mount the metal strips, which are installed so that a visor is formed above the pipe walls. Therefore, the shape of the slats is Z-shaped. A strobe is laid on the pipe, where the upper shelf of the element is sunk. The strips are attached to the pipe itself with self-tapping screws. After that, the strobe joint is filled with silicone sealant.
Closing the plinth with a valley carpet and shingles Source bouw.ru
Sealing roof penetrations
Small pipes, antennas create joints in the roofing pie through which water can penetrate under the roof structure. When constructing a roof from soft tiles, these passages must also be taken into account. For their sealing use special rubber caps. They are laid so that they go 2 cm onto the laid tiles with their lower edge. A mark is made on the lining carpet where it is necessary to cut a through hole for the passage.
Cut a hole with a jigsaw.
Bituminous mastic is applied on the reverse side of the cap.
The cap is placed in place.
Fix it with roofing nails, punching around the perimeter.
A layer of mastic is applied on top of the skirt of the cap.
Carry out the installation of soft tiles.
The junction of the roofing material and the cap is filled with sealant, which is sprinkled with stone powder on top.
Skate decoration
To cover the roof ridge, a universal element is used, which was used as a starting strip. It is simply cut into three parts, each part is laid along the ridge across, hanging the edges from each slope, and nailed to the crate with roofing nails. The cut parts are laid from bottom to top along the inclined edge of the ridge with an overlap of 3 cm. In order for the cut parts to bend well along the ridge, it is recommended to warm them up a little with a building hair dryer.
How to close the ridge with soft tiles Source yandex.ru
To ensure ventilation of the roof, special ridge elements are used, in the design of which there are slots or holes. Through the latter, there is an outflow of air from under the roof structure.
The ventilation element is installed along the ridge, fastened to the crate with nails, and then bituminous tiles are glued on top.
Video description
How to properly mount shingles on the roof in the video:
Video description
For errors in the installation of shingles, see the following video:
Conclusion on the topic
So, the roof of soft tiles is ready. No other operations are required. The main task of the manufacturer of works is to strictly follow the instructions that come with the roofing material. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that there are certain additions or changes in the ongoing technology for each model of tiles. They are also marked in the instructions.
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