Wooden frame for drywall - built quickly and easily! Possible options for mounting wooden frames for drywall

Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame produced only in rooms with low or normal humidity. The technology of wall cladding on wood cannot be attributed to outdated technologies. It is actively promoted by the company Knauf and is recommended for wooden and brick houses of individual construction.

Wall cladding with drywall on a wooden frame - disadvantages

Wall cladding with drywall on a wooden frame has a number of disadvantages.

The frame is made of wooden beams, subject to decay. Over time, such wood cladding begins to warp and violate its integrity.
For the frame, you need to look for only a dry and absolutely even beam. And such a bar is not only hard to find, but also its considerable cost.

Despite the shortcomings, wall cladding on a wooden frame, both used and used, to this day. Needless to say, this is a rarity.

Preliminary work

Before cladding the wall, lay all utilities on the clad wall, namely, lay electrical wiring under the drywall and / or plumbing in the drywall structure (if any).
Wiring can be laid openly, in a corrugation or a box. Then, when installing the frame, it will be necessary to cut out places for electrical wiring and / and water pipes in the bars of the frame.

To work at height, you can use construction towers-tours. They are easy to assemble and disassemble. They create a convenient high-altitude platform, are easily transferred from place to place. For example, ARIS prefabricated towers up to five meters high are assembled by one person in 20-30 minutes. You can see the ARIS tower tours.

Frame manufacturing

For the frame, a dry, even beam measuring 50 × 25 and 75 × 25 mm is used.
The 75x25mm beam should hit the edge of the gypsum board, and the 50x25 beam should support the sheet over the surface.
The timber frame is attached directly to the wall of the room. For fastening, nails are used (if the wall is wooden or plaster) or a dowel - nails (if the wall is concrete) or plastic dowels and screws (if the wall is brick).

If fastening standard drywall fasteners are used. Fasteners are made on dowels and screws, then the holes for fastening are drilled in advance. The distance between the fasteners is 500 mm.
When fastening on dowel-nails, the beam is drilled together with the wall and the dowel-nail is hammered into the hole. The distance between them is also 500 mm.
First, horizontal bars are attached, near the ceiling and near the floor. After fixing them, we move on to vertical racks. The first beam is attached to the corner.
For convenience and correct calculation, bars are first attached, which will fall on the edge of the drywall sheet. Their size is 75×25 mm. Since the width of the gypsum board is 1200 mm, the step between the bars should be 1200-1205 mm (with a single-layer cladding).

With a two-layer cladding, the number of bars 75 × 50 is doubled, and the second layer of drywall is attached to the frame with an offset of half the sheet, both vertically and horizontally.
Of course, you can not bother with buying different timber and for simplicity, buy a bar of the same size: 75 × 25 mm.
After fixing these bars, bars of 50 × 25 mm are attached between them. The step between them is 400 mm. With a two-layer cladding, the step between the uprights increases to 600 mm and their number decreases.

Wood frame processing

The finished wooden frame must be treated with an antiseptic composition. This treatment will increase the life of the frame and save it from decay.

Wood frame insulation

Before fixing drywall, you need to insulate the wooden frame. For insulation and simultaneous sound insulation, mineral wool-based heaters or polystyrene foam slabs or basalt slabs are used.

Plates are laid between vertical bars.

Frame vapor barrier

After laying the heat insulator, the frame must be closed with a vapor barrier film. The film should cover the entire frame structure. The vapor barrier is nailed to the bars with staples with a construction stapler.

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After fixing the vapor barrier, you can proceed to fixing drywall.

Fastening drywall sheets to a wooden frame

When attaching drywall sheets, the following rules are observed:

There should be a distance of 10 mm from the sheet to the floor and ceiling.
The distance between the sheet fixing screws must be 250 mm.

Some experts believe that a distance of 5 mm should be left between the sheets. It's too much. For puttying joints, it is better to buy a sheet of drywall with a thinned edge (UK) or make a chamfer on the edge of the sheet manually.
With a two-layer cladding, the sheets of the two layers are displaced both vertically and horizontally. The distance between the wooden posts is 600 mm, which corresponds to half of the plasterboard.

To maintain a 10 mm gap between the floor and the sheet, prepare the pads under the sheet in advance.

Technology for attaching a sheet to a wooden frame

Lay 10 mm of lining on the floor near the frame.
Bring the sheet of drywall up to the frame, lay the edge of the sheet on the spacer and lift the sheet.
Fasten the sheet with TB type screws with a drill on the end. Distance between screws 250 mm.

Of course, a strip will remain on the wall, on which neither half nor a full sheet of drywall will fit. In this case, cut the drywall sheet to size and attach it to the frame. When attaching drywall sheets, do not forget about the electrical wiring in the structure. Immediately cut round holes in the sheets for mounting boxes for hidden sockets or simply lead the wires out from under the cladding to install surface sockets.

That's all! Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame is completed.

Wall cladding with drywall provides for a device or wooden beams. Metal crate is mainly used, it is more durable and practical.

In rooms with normal and dry temperature and humidity conditions, it is permissible to use wooden bars with a humidity of 12%, impregnated with antiseptic and flame retardant compounds, for the construction of the frame. In places with high humidity, as well as where an increase in the fire resistance of structures is required, only a metal frame is used.

What beam is needed

For the installation of wooden frames, a bar with a section of 50x30 and 60x40 mm (ceilings), 40x25 (walls) is chosen. Basic requirements for the material: humidity - no more than 12%, no cracks and other defects. The common nature of the tree is pine.

What fasteners and connection methods are needed

The connection of the frame parts, their fastening on the wall and ceiling is performed dowel-nails. In concrete surfaces, holes are first made with a puncher with a drill, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the dowel.

Additional fasteners include metal corners. They join vertical racks with horizontal ones. The wooden guide rails are fastened in increments of 40-60 cm (the distance between the nearest racks).

The metal plate is used for both walls and ceilings.

The connection of the elements of a wooden frame with each other is performed self-tapping screws at an angle or metal perforated corners. The installation of the bars on the wall is done with an indent from it, using ceiling and floor starting profiles or without indentation, when the starting bars are not needed, and the vertical racks are fixed directly to the wall. If it is crooked, it is leveled with special compounds or by laying wooden spacers in the right places.

Requirements for materials and rules of work

The set of rules for design and construction has the basic requirements that must be followed to create a solid frame and subsequent placement of sheets. Here are the main ones:

All products and materials must have a hygienic conclusion and fire certificates;
In the space between the frame and the draft base, where the operating conditions require it, it is necessary to place heat, sound, fire insulating material;
Water absorption of waterproof and water-resistant drywall sheets should be no more than 10%;
Sheets GKLVO (moisture-fire-resistant) are used in rooms with air humidity not more than 90%, temperature not exceeding 30C. When using them for surface treatment, waterproof primers, putties, paints are used;
To fasten sheets of plasterboard with a thickness of not more than 15 mm to a wooden frame, TN35 screws are used, up to 24 mm thick - TN45;
With longitudinal placement of sheets, the step of their fastening is made no more than 60 cm, with a transverse one - no more than 1.25 m;
To improve the soundproofing properties of the structure, a sealing tape is laid between the guide bars, ceiling and floor;
Sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws in increments of 25 cm, (in different directions) with an indent from the edges - 10 mm (edge with cardboard), 15 mm - (cut edge);
Joints of sheets with their vertical arrangement should fall on the center of the racks, with a horizontal one - on additional bars placed between the vertical racks;
The step of the bearing bars on the ceiling is 50 cm with a transverse arrangement of the GKL, 40 cm with a vertical one;
GKL fastening step on the ceiling - no more than 17 cm.

Step by step construction instructions

The installation of the frame on the wall should be carried out after the completion of wet processes and before the assembly of the finished floor, on the ceiling - after finishing and laying utilities. All work is carried out in the following order:

markup;
Frame assembly;
Installation of sheets;
Finishing work.

1. Markup

On the floor and ceiling with a chopping cord, the position of the future starting bars of the frame is applied, taking into account their thickness. The transfer of marks between the floor and the ceiling is performed by a laser level or a magnetic plummet. At the same time, the location of the doorways, the attachment points of the vertical racks are noted, taking into account the selected step.

Attention. It is necessary that the joint of the sheets falls on the center of the vertical racks. To do this, they make an accurate calculation, and if necessary, increase or decrease the pitch of the profiles in the right places.

2. Assembly of the frame

On the marked lines on the floor and ceiling, the starting bars are fixed with dowel-nails, at least 3.5 cm long. Next, vertical bars are installed adjacent to the walls. Their length should be such that they fit snugly between the guides. The elements are fixed with self-tapping screws or metal corners. At this stage, the selected area of \u200b\u200bthe room should be framed around the perimeter.

Insulation is embedded in the frame

Attention! If it is planned to place a heater in the space between the frame and the wall, it is necessary to take this into account at the stage of calculations by placing the starting beam at a tedious distance from the wall.

At the second stage, vertical bars with the selected pitch are mounted. To provide additional rigidity of the structure, it is reinforced with racks placed horizontally between them.

Laying communications

If you plan to place sanitary piping and low-voltage wiring (TV, Internet, telephone), you need to do this after assembling the frame. To simplify the process of placing vertical bars, metal profiles can be used as starting guides on the floor and ceiling.

3. Mounting sheets

Sheets are placed on the frame, fitting close to the wall and ceiling, fixed with screws from the center to the edges or simultaneously in a vertical and horizontal plane (alternately). Self-tapping screws are recessed by 1 mm. A gap of 1-1.5 cm is left between the sheets and the floor, subsequently sealing it with a sealant.

Attention. If the self-tapping screw entered the material not at a right angle or deformed, it is replaced with another one, located at a distance of at least 5 cm from the first one.

Joints between sheets with or without reinforcing tape, depending on the type of gypsum board edge. The putty composition is applied in 2 layers - starting and finishing and should not protrude beyond the seam. Corners are processed using reinforcing tape, bending it at the desired angle. After drying with a solution, the surface of the sheets is finished, followed by the placement of the facing material.

Plasterboard lining

Wall cladding with drywall is a practical and common way inside apartments and houses. GKL allows you to align walls and ceilings. A common method is when sheets are mounted on a frame made of wooden slats or metal profiles. If you need to save money or time, the question arises: is it possible to attach drywall directly to the wall? Yes, there are cases when the crate can be omitted. Alignment of walls with drywall without a frame is performed on almost even bases of various types. The photo below shows a room with plasterboard walls and ceilings.

Fastening drywall to a wall without a profile is the best option for flat surfaces. An important role is played by the degree of deviation from the plane. The frameless method of wall cladding is applicable if the differences do not exceed 5 cm. When they are larger, a crate is often installed.

Drywall is fixed on uneven planes using beacons. Thanks to this, the installation of sheets occurs immediately on the level. Without beacons, you can mount it, having a lot of experience, or in small areas.

You can control the degree of curvature of the base using the building level and a long rule.

Existing methods of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow you to mount it on different types of surfaces. It is possible to fasten sheets:

to a brick wall;
on partitions made of porous concrete, monolith, panels, limestone, shell rock, cinder block and plastered;
on wooden surfaces.

Installation of plasterboard on foam concrete

Gluing sheets on a foam concrete base is shown in the photo above.

Finishing walls with drywall without a frame and a profile is beneficial for the following reasons:

this method of finishing reduces the cost of material for the crate;
money is also saved on its installation (if it was planned to involve a specialist);
the volume of the room practically does not decrease;
the terms of facing works are reduced, and the process itself is simplified.

The following requirements are imposed on surfaces that are planned to be sewn up with plasterboard sheets:

the base must be strong, smooth, without significant defects and fungus;
it is required that the wall surface be protected from moisture.

If the sticking method is used, then it is recommended to remove old paint, contaminants (dust, oil stains).

A big plus of finishing the walls with drywall without a frame with your own hands is that the process is faster and easier than if you need to pre-create the crate.

Preparatory activities

Before you fix this material to the wall without profiles, you should decide what thickness to choose drywall, prepare the required tools. Everything you need for different installation methods is presented in the table below.

Some of the tools and materials are used only for certain methods of installing GKL. Gypsum glue

The photo above shows a bag of gypsum glue used for drywall to glue it on.

In work, you can not do without a ladder, or other device for working at height.

Installation of drywall on walls without a frame requires compliance with a number of conditions:

the temperature during work should exceed +10 degrees, therefore, at its lower values, it is necessary to take care of the organization of heating;
it is necessary that the walls in the repaired room be dry;
in the presence of high humidity in the rooms, moisture-resistant types of facing material are used;
before installation, it is recommended that the sheets lie in the room for 3 days;
the base for the installation of drywall must be integral, not fall apart, otherwise it will need to be pre-strengthened.

The quality of the result directly depends on how well the preparation was carried out. Due to the fact that all the necessary tools and materials will be pre-assembled, you will not need to be distracted during work. Maintaining the required microclimate is a prerequisite during the finishing.

Methods for fixing GKL without installing a frame

In practice, several methods are used on how to level walls with drywall without a frame. They differ in the materials used for this and the technology of work. Using the frameless method allows you to sheathe the walls or ceilings of rooms and offices, directly fixing the sheets on their surface.

In practice, 2 options are used on how to fix drywall without mounting the crate. However, different materials are used. Here's how you can attach sheets:

self-tapping screws (for wood), or dowels;
glue, "liquid nails", polyurethane foam.

Application of mounting foam

The photo above shows the application of mounting foam to the sheet, in order to then fix it on the wall.

The general scheme of work for any installation method:

prepare the base;
fix drywall;
close up the joints.

Additional strengthening measures are not required. Installation methods can be combined with each other. So, the glued lining can additionally be fixed with self-tapping screws or dowels.

Depending on the variant of the subsequent cladding, the surface can be further puttied, and then sanded and primed.

The choice of one or another option is determined both by personal preferences, and evenness and the material from which the partitions are built. So, drywall to a concrete wall (smooth) is glued or fixed with dowels. The leveled wooden surface is sheathed using self-tapping screws.

Fixing method with self-tapping screws, dowels

Sheathing walls with drywall without a frame using self-tapping screws is possible if there is a base made of a suitable material for this: wood, foam concrete or gypsum. The workflow consists of the following steps:

existing protrusions are removed: wooden partitions are leveled by hewing them with an ax or a chisel with a hammer, and walls made of foam concrete (gypsum) with a puncher with an inserted chisel;
fix plasterboard sheets in increments of 25-35 cm, using a checkerboard pattern of their location on the surface of the base, with hardware 3.9x25 mm or 3.9x35 mm long (on a flat wooden surface) and 3.9x45 mm (on aerated concrete, gypsum).

Fixing drywall with self-tapping screws

After tightening with a screwdriver, the head of the self-tapping screw should be slightly “drowned” in the facing.

The photo below shows the process of fixing a plasterboard fragment on a wooden ceiling.

It should be borne in mind that a strong tightening of the hardware at the locations of the depressions causes deformation of the material. To avoid this, the sheets fall short, leaving a slight gap between them and the surface. The strength of the structure being created will not decrease.

When it is impossible to screw self-tapping screws into the wall (the base is made of concrete, brick, cinder block), then the walls are leveled with drywall without a profile, using driven dowels for installation. Their length with non-plastered surfaces should be 6x40 mm or 6x60 mm. If the thickness of the cladding layer exceeds 2 cm, then hardware 6x80 or 8x100 mm is used.

The technology consists of the following operations:

using a puncher or a hammer with a chisel, level the base, removing defective areas;
when the sheet is installed, then a hole is drilled through it;
insert the plastic part;
clog or twist a metal core, placing a washer under the hat;
thus, they sheathe the entire room, cutting the sheets if necessary.

The substrate for the head of the metal core can be made from a U-shaped fastening for the profile. To do this, it is cut into plates with metal scissors.

In places of depressions, the core is not finished off so that the sheet does not concave.

When all the sheets are attached, then proceed to sealing the seams. With even base surfaces, the use of hardware allows you to quickly sheathe a room or office space.

Gluing technology

To level the walls with drywall for glue, in addition to gypsum compositions, mounting foam and "liquid nails" are usually used. Home-made solutions are also used, for example, based on putty and PVA. At the same time, the techniques for applying the compositions to the surface of the installed material differ.

Before you start attaching drywall to the wall, you should prepare it in a special way. The process consists of the following steps:

the working area is cleaned of old finishes (paint, wallpaper, defective plaster);
close up cracks;
apply two layers of primer;
dowels are hammered in the corners (self-tapping screws are screwed in);
using a plumb line or level, pull threads (thin ropes) between them;
in a selected square lying at an angle of 90 ° relative to the floor, surface irregularities are considered;
if deviations of more than 2 cm are detected, a substrate is prepared from fragments from the material being installed (a sufficient width of the pieces is 10 cm);
make markings for fixed drywall sheets on a wall without a frame.

When sketching the location of the fragments, the gaps between the edges of the plasterboard and the floor (0.7-1 cm), the ceiling (0.3-0.5 mm) are taken into account. Open areas (output of communications) are also taken into account when marking.

It is convenient to use a laser level for marking.

To attach drywall to a wall without a profile with deviations of more than 2 cm, it is recommended to install beacons. To do this, proceed as follows:

stretch the thread horizontally in increments of 50 cm;
under them (also after half a meter) glue beacons are applied;
control the thread level;
allow the beacons to dry before attaching the drywall to the unframed walls.

In the role of beacons, you can also use strips of gypsum board with a length along the height of the room, glued vertically every 50 cm. In addition to guiding functions, they serve as stops for leaning plasterboards.

Options for leveling the base by gluing GKL

The figure below shows the options for aligning walls of various curvature with plasterboard when it is mounted on glue.

waiting for the primer to dry completely;
apply a fragmentary adhesive mass (2 cm higher than the gap between the back side of the GCR and the base surface) at a distance of about 40 cm from each other over the entire surface of the sheet;
in the same way, cover the base with the composition;
press the plasterboard fragment against the wall;
knock it out with a rubber mallet so that it leans against the beacons.

Installation of GKL on adhesive compositions is considered a more complicated and painstaking method, compared with fixing with dowels (self-tapping screws). It is recommended to use deep penetration primers with antiseptic properties for surface treatment before gluing.

The use of mounting adhesive to fix drywall is demonstrated in the video below.

Installation using mounting foam is shown in the following video.

The use of frameless methods allows you to both level the wall with drywall without a profile, and save money on work and material. The savings figure can reach almost 60% compared to the frame version. Sheets fixed according to the selected technology will hold securely. At the same time, work on your own is easier and faster (especially on level ground) than using a crate.

Drywall is probably the most popular residential sheet material. Traditionally, it is mounted on a crate or frame made of bar or galvanized profiles. In this article, I'm going to talk about what it looks like attaching drywall to a wall without a profile.

Installation of moisture-resistant drywall on a wall without a crate.

Why drywall

pros

Why exactly GKL is used for leveling and rough wall finishing?

Here are the arguments in his favor:

Large sheet area reduces finishing time;

Reference: a standard GKL sheet measuring 2500x1200 mm has an area of 3 square meters. The sheet area of 3000x1200 is even more impressive - 3.6 m2.

Standard dimensions and weight of GKL.

Drywall is permeable to air and water vapor. This means that the room will not be stuffy even with the windows closed. Of course, provided that the main walls have at least the same vapor and air permeability;

The vapor permeability of building envelopes must always increase from the inside out. Otherwise, instead of filtering water vapor into the street, the owner will receive its accumulation in the thickness of the wall. Humidification will contribute to a drop in thermal insulation qualities and a decrease in the service life of walls and ceilings.

Dependence of the state of enclosing structures on the vapor permeability of the layers of the wall, thermal insulation and finishing.

The price of a GKL sheet looks very attractive against the background of plaster. According to Crimean rates, plastering a square meter of a wall costs at least 400 rubles without the cost of materials. At the same time, a sheet of ordinary, non-moisture resistant drywall with an area of 3 square meters can be bought for 300 rubles. Its installation on the wall, unlike its plastering, does not require experience and special skills;
The GKL surface is compatible with any tile adhesives and is suitable for wallpapering on any wallpaper adhesive. Without exception, all putties also have excellent adhesion to kraft paper - the top layer of gypsum board;
From a related material - a gypsum fiber sheet, drywall compares favorably in that even with cracks in the gypsum core, two layers of kraft paper keep it in the same plane. The broken sheet can be used to level the walls, provided that the broken area is securely fastened.

This feature of the material is useful when assembling arches: GKL is notched and bent, then its surface is leveled with puttying.

Minuses

Does the GKL have disadvantages that it is useful for the buyer to know about?

I would politically correct call them not shortcomings, but features of the material:

All materials based on gypsum are not friendly with water. Yes, GKLV (moisture-resistant drywall) tolerates dampness well due to the low hygroscopicity of the core and antifungal additives in gypsum, but direct contact with water is also contraindicated for him;

However: the problem is successfully solved by using water-impervious materials in the finishing of the premises. In my bathroom, the plasterboard walls and ceiling are painted with rubber waterproofing paint, which allows them to withstand constant contact with splashes of water and occasional wet cleaning using any non-abrasive cleaners.

The wall above the tiled apron and the ceiling in the bathroom are painted with rubber water-dispersion paint.

GKL has a very limited strength. Accidentally hitting a drywall wall while carrying furniture, it can be broken through. To increase the strength of the partitions, their sheathing along the frame is usually made in two layers; however, mounting to a wall without a profile implies mounting the sheet only and exclusively in one layer;
It is problematic to hang a shelf or cabinet on a plasterboard partition or main wall after leveling the GKL. Of course, this problem also has a solution, which I will discuss in the corresponding section of the article; however, our material clearly loses in comparison with the main wall in terms of ease of installation of hanging furniture.

Cabinets are easier to hang on concrete or brick walls.

Mounting without profile

What is beneficial

Why do I need to install drywall on a wall without a profile?

There are at least two good reasons for this:

Reducing installation costs. The average consumption of gypsum glue Perlfix, which (running a little ahead) is used for mounting drywall on main walls, is 5 kg / sheet at a cost of a 30-kilogram bag from 285 rubles. Thus, the cost of installing one sheet (if, of course, all the work is done by hand) will be only 285/6 = 47.5 rubles;

Gypsum glue Perlfix. Packing - 30 kilograms, cost - from 285 rubles.

I will clarify: in practice, the consumption of glue can increase markedly with significant unevenness of the base. In addition, I did not take into account the cost of priming the wall (however, very insignificant).

At the same time, to mount the same sheet on a crate from a ceiling profile, you need:

Lathing for drywall made of galvanized profile.

At the most humane prices I found (they are offered by the Leroy Merlin online store), this set will cost about 250 rubles;

In addition, fixing drywall to the wall without profiles will significantly increase the free space of the room. Let's do one more simple calculation: find out how much space the frame will take up with an average distance from the wall to the GKL sheet of 5 centimeters and a room size of 4x5 meters.

The perimeter of the room is 4+4+5+5=18 meters; the total area of the gap between the wall and drywall is 18 m x 0.05 m = 0.9 m2. Almost 1/20 of the area of the room will be inaccessible for use only thanks to the crate.

If you glue the GKL directly on the walls, the cost of the usable area will be limited only by the size of the irregularities on the main wall (as a rule, no more than 5 - 10 mm).

Restrictions

How to find out if the plasterboard can be mounted directly on the wall?

It's simple: if the curvilinearity, blockage or differences in the wall do not exceed 5 centimeters, you can do without the crate. If the size of the irregularities is larger, it is still better to assemble the frame from the profile: the cost of funds and room space will be comparable or change in favor of mounting on the crate.

The long rule and the level will help to assess the curvature and blockage of the walls.

On which walls can drywall be mounted without crates?

Different ways of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow installation:

On the main walls and partitions made of brick, limestone, shell rock, concrete (panels and monolith), gas and foam concrete;
On wooden partitions (frame and plank, plastered and unplastered).

Partitions in stalinkas - plank, plastered on shingles.

Technology

For self-tapping screws

How to install drywall on a wooden partition in stalinka?

If it does not have significant irregularities, the gypsum board can be fixed with self-tapping screws directly to the wall surface. When decorating the walls in the kitchen of one of my old apartments, I did not even knock down the plaster; because of its thickness, I had to use self-tapping screws 70 mm long for fastening.

What screws to use?

Black phosphated. On wood or plasterboard - it doesn't matter: they differ only in the thread pitch. Self-tapping screws for GVL and drywall have a smaller pitch, due to which it is more difficult to push the sheet through with a hat.

1 - self-tapping screw for drywall and GVL, 2 - self-tapping screw for wood.

How to screw screws?

Only with a screwdriver - cordless or mains powered. After screwing hundreds of self-tapping screws onto one sheet of drywall with a screwdriver, hands feel, frankly, not very good.

Cordless drywall screwdriver.

Is it necessary to reinforce the seams with this installation method??

Necessarily, because with fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometry of wooden partitions will inevitably change. How to do this, I will tell a little later.

How to level a wall with drywall without a profile if it is made of bricks or foam blocks? How to fix the GKL?

It can be attached:

On the gypsum glue already mentioned by me;
On mounting foam;

Mounting foam has excellent adhesion to any surfaces.

If the base has irregularities of no more than 3-5 mm - on liquid nails or any other construction adhesive.

On glue

How to attach drywall to a wall without a profile using liquid nails?

The base is cleaned from peeling plaster, dirt, glossy paint and other weak and low-adhesion coatings;
Protrusions with a height of more than 3-5 millimeters are removed with a chisel or perforator;
The wall is primed over the entire area with acrylic penetrating primer. It is necessary to primer twice without intermediate drying. The primer will stick the remaining dust and strengthen the surface, preventing the GKL from peeling off along with the top layer of the base. The primer is applied with a sprayer, a long-haired roller or a soft wide brush;

Primer of the main wall under the GKL sticker.

After the soil has completely dried, the recesses in the wall with a width of more than 10 centimeters are sealed with a cement-sand mortar. You can use a homemade solution of Portland cement and sifted sand in a ratio of 1: 3, as well as any cement plaster or putty;
The seal after drying is re-primed;
After the soil has completely dried, glue is applied to the back surface of the drywall sheet in strips. The step between the strips is 10-15 cm;

So liquid nails are applied to the back surface of the sheet.

The sheet is pressed tightly against the wall and supported by several inclined boards at different heights.

On the foam

How to fix drywall with foam?

Foam differs from liquid nails and other building adhesives in two ways:

It perfectly fills all the recesses in the wall. If so, they can not be sealed - it is enough to remove protrusions with a height of more than 5 millimeters;
The foam expands upon setting. Therefore, we will have to fix the sheet against the wall for 30 - 60 minutes after it is pasted.

How to do it? Here is a simple instruction:

Putting the sheet against the wall and supporting it with a pair of inclined boards, mark and drill 8 holes for dowel screws measuring approximately 8x80 mm in the sheet and the wall at an equal distance from each other;
Apply foam on the back of the sheet - dotted with a step of 20 cm or stripes around the perimeter and inside the sheet;
Press the sheet against the wall and fix it with dowel screws. Their hats do not need to be heated below the surface level, as when mounted on a frame: after the foam has set, the screws can be removed or, conversely, screwed to the level of the main wall and hide the holes with putty.

Plasterboard slopes are planted on mounting foam and fixed with dowel-screws for the time of its setting.

The position of the sheet strictly in the vertical plane must be controlled by a long level or a rule and a plumb line. Dowel-screws will not allow drywall to bend in the direction from the wall, and expansion of the mounting foam will prevent bending in the opposite direction.

For gypsum glue

How to fix drywall on a wall without a profile on gypsum glue?

First of all: not only specialized glue (Perlfix, Volma Montazh, etc.) is suitable for this purpose, but also any gypsum putty or plaster. Their price is approximately equal to the cost of glue, adhesive qualities also practically do not differ.

Plaster or putty can successfully replace gypsum glue.

Work in this case also begins with the preparation of the wall. It must be cleaned of dirt, dust-free and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer twice.

The adhesive composition is prepared as follows:

Glue, plaster or putty is poured into a wide container with water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of the mixture. They are as evenly distributed as possible over the surface of the water;

The dry mixture is poured into water. If you pour water into gypsum glue, a lot of dry lumps will remain at the bottom of the container.

Then the future glue is aged for 3-5 minutes. During this time, the maximum volume of the dry mixture should be saturated with water;
The mixture is mixed manually (with a spatula or trowel) or with a mixer. A drill with an appropriate nozzle will also work. Stir the mixture until a homogeneous consistency without lumps is obtained.

Glue can be applied with equal success both to the wall and to the sheet itself. It seems to me more convenient to apply to the wall: GKL already weighs 30 kg, and together with glue it becomes very massive and inconvenient to move. The glue should be applied in blotches in increments of 15 - 20 centimeters; a solid roller is needed only at the level of the plinth - it will significantly simplify its fastening with dowels and screws.

So gypsum glue is applied to the surface of the GKL.

Then the sheet is pressed against the wall and leveled using a level and a rule in a vertical plane. As a rule, he does not need additional fixation: the viscosity of the adhesive ensures the stability of the position. The position and bend of the GKL are corrected with light strokes of the palm or a rubber mallet.

By the way: I used the same method of fixing drywall when finishing door and window slopes. The final gypsum putty Eurogypsum was used as glue.

The slopes of the doorway in the photo are finished with drywall, planted on the Eurogips finishing putty.

A couple of nuances:

When mounting adjacent sheets, special attention must be paid to the relative position of their edges. The differences will have to be removed with a thick layer of putty, which will unnecessarily increase the cost of money and time for finishing;

The edges of adjacent sheets must be strictly in the same plane.

On a curved wall with significant differences, it is worth first sticking beacons from GKL scraps on the same gypsum glue or putty. For the same purpose, dowel-screws partially screwed into the wall can also be used; the position of the sheet is corrected by screwing them in and out a few turns.

The sheets are aligned in the same plane with the help of improvised beacons.

Sealing and puttying

How to seal seams between adjacent sheets?

Drywall (even moisture resistant) has a certain hygroscopicity and slightly changes its linear dimensions with fluctuations in humidity. The same thing happens with temperature changes: thermal expansion has not been canceled. Periodic changes in the dimensions of adjacent sheets sooner or later lead to the appearance of cracks along the seams separating them.

A few years after finishing the room, cracks appeared at the seams without reinforcement.

So that the seams do not crack, they need to be reinforced. For this purpose, a sickle is traditionally used - a rolled self-adhesive glass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh.

Reinforcement of the seam with sickle.

The seam is puttied in at least two passes. The cavity of the seam is filled with putty with the first pass, the fiberglass mesh reinforcing the seam is covered with the second pass. Sometimes a third pass is required: when drying, the putty shrinks slightly, but noticeably, and the seam after it has set looks concave.

The preparation and use of putty has several subtleties:

It is prepared in small batches. The specific size of a single serving of putty depends on your puttying skills. It seems to me convenient to use no more than one and a half kilograms of dry mixture at a time;

Putty is prepared in small portions. The life time of the finished mixture does not exceed 30 - 40 minutes.

Wash dishes and spatulas before preparing each new serving. Otherwise, the old putty will form hard lumps in the solution. These lumps, when putty is applied to the GKL, will leave untidy furrows in it;
To fill the seam, it is convenient to use a spatula with a width of 10 - 12 cm. The seam is filled with sliding movements crosswise; in this case, both sides of it are filled with putty as evenly and densely as possible;

The edges of the sheets cut to size before puttying are cut with a sharp knife.

The second (covering) layer of putty is applied with movements along the seam with a spatula 30-35 centimeters wide. Putty is previously applied to it with a narrow spatula.

I prefer to reinforce the seam not with sickle, but with rolled fiberglass: due to the smaller thickness of the material, the seam stands out less on the surface of adjacent sheets. Fiberglass is denser than a mesh and does not allow filling a seam through it, so the reinforcement technology differs markedly from the one I described above:

The seam is filled with putty (taking into account its shrinkage during drying - twice);
Then fiberglass is glued along the seam. Glue - diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 PVA. It is applied to the fiberglass laid on top of the drywall scraps with a wide brush;

Rolled fiberglass. Due to its smaller thickness, it gives a more accurate seam compared to sickle.

It is more convenient to cut fiberglass for stickers in pieces about a meter long.

The reinforcing tape is pressed against the seam and smoothed out with a rubber or steel spatula. If you do it with your bare hands, there will be a lot of the thinnest fragments of fiberglass in the skin. These splinters are not very painful and come out quickly, but they noticeably interfere with work;
After the glue has dried (it takes no more than an hour), the seam is covered with the final layer of putty and polished.

Do I need to putty the entire surface of drywall?

This is not required, but desirable. Putty creates a separating layer on the surface, which allows, if necessary, to peel off the wallpaper without peeling off the top layer of kraft paper. In addition, puttying the surface will reliably mask the seams that stand out.

Plastering plasterboard walls.

It is convenient to use a special corner spatula to align the corners.

Puttying the surface is easiest to do in two layers “on a peel”: the putty is applied with a narrow spatula to a wide one and spread on the gypsum board with sliding movements as thin as possible. After drying the first layer, the operation is repeated again.

There should be at least two weeks between plastering the drywall and painting the walls with water-based paint. During this time, the remaining moisture will completely leave the seams. If you hurry with painting, the seams will stand out in a dark tone with any number of dye layers.

How to sand?

I use for this purpose a vibrating sander with sanding grids No. 80 (first pass) and No. 120 (second pass) fixed to it. Sanding is best with the brightest possible light, directed at an oblique angle to the surface: it will allow you to see the slightest irregularities due to cast or shadows.

Even an inexpensive vibrating grinder will greatly speed up the work compared to a hand grater.

Do not be too lazy to put on goggles and a gauze bandage or a respirator. Gypsum dust strongly irritates the eyes and mucous membranes.

Comrades! Do not neglect personal protective equipment!

Hanging furniture

How to fix a hinged shelf or cabinet on a wall pasted over with plasterboard?

If the wall is sheathed with GKL on self-tapping screws or pasted over with building glue, there will be no problems in principle: the sheet is tightly pressed against the wall, which makes it possible to use ordinary dowel-screws of increased length for installation.

Foam or gypsum glue means that there is a gap between the sheet and the main wall, allowing the drywall to be washed during installation.

At the stage of wall sheathing, the problem is solved in two ways:

In the place of the intended attachment of the hanging furniture, a continuous layer of gypsum glue, plaster or putty is applied to the back side of the plasterboard or to the wall;

The more often glue cakes are applied, the greater the load the lining will withstand.

The GKL section is cut out, and instead of it, a wooden embedded part of the appropriate thickness is attached to the wall with dowel screws or anchors.

The latter method will also work if the drywall is already fixed: it is enough to cut it with a sharp knife around the perimeter of the embedded part and cut out the gypsum glue with a chisel, after which the mortgage from a bar or thick plywood is attached directly to the wall.

Finally, to attach hanging furniture directly through the drywall and the gap between it and the main wall, you can use elongated anchors with a couple of additional threaded nuts. The fixing angles of the cabinets are clamped between these nuts.

To fasten the cabinet, it is enough to supply the wedge anchor with a couple of additional nuts.

For light shelves, Molly anchors can be used. They only stick to drywall.

Conclusion

I hope that my simple advice will help the dear reader in finishing his own home. As always, I would appreciate your comments and additions. Additional information will be offered to your attention by the video in this article. Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Not a single repair in our time is complete without drywall. Walls are constantly sheathed with this material, various structures are made from it and ceilings are finished with it. As a rule, for the installation of drywall sheets, a frame is pre-mounted on which the material is fixed. Increasingly, however, people are looking to attach drywall to a wall without a profile. What is it connected with? First of all, with the desire to save time, money and labor resources.

But can drywall be fixed directly to the wall? The question is ambiguous. Experienced craftsmen recommend mounting a metal or wooden frame and only then fixing gypsum boards on it. However, with proper installation, it is possible to install drywall on walls without a frame. Nevertheless, it is better to think it over several times, and if only if the solution has no alternatives to get down to business, since fixing the GKL without a frame just for the sake of saving can result in high costs in the future. You can fix drywall in this way, for example, if you are doing repairs in small rooms, such as bathrooms, toilets, balconies, then the frame will steal precious space.

One of the exotic ways to fasten drywall without a profile is to glue it on a mounting foam.

Conditions for fastening without profiles

In order to attach directly to the wall GKL or GVL, a number of necessary conditions must be observed, without which this procedure is simply impossible.

The wall should be vertical and perfectly flat, that is, not have any even the slightest slope. There are situations when the wall does not stand evenly enough and in such cases it is carried out, the frame is partially installed. Metal profiles in this installation option serve only as an equalizer for the wall.

The height of the room should not exceed the length of the drywall sheet. The problem here is that when installing drywall sheets, it is understood that the joints of different pieces of drywall will be located along transverse metal profiles. If you fasten the sheets directly to the wall, then you should not have transverse joints at all, since there will be nothing to fasten them to.

If the wall has minor irregularities from two millimeters to two centimeters, then there is an option to level it with a starting putty, in which ten to fifteen percent of gypsum must first be added. For fixing drywall, it is recommended to use ready-made adhesive mixtures. The mixture must be applied around the perimeter of the entire sheet, as well as in one continuous strip in its center.

If the irregularities are much larger, then plasterboard beacons can be used instead of frame profiles. They are drywall, cut into squares or rectangles of ten to twenty centimeters and serve to level the wall with drywall sheets without a frame.

After the adhesive mixture dries, the drywall sheets are again fastened with dowels in the corners and in the center. The dowels are fastened so that they go into the wall by at least forty millimeters.

After the final installation of the sheets has been carried out, it is necessary to putty the connecting seams, as well as glue the mesh.

Required Tools

For finishing, you will need some non-standard tools. It is better to prepare them in advance.

Knife, with replaceable blades for cutting drywall sheets;
Electric jigsaw or saw for working with drywall;
Strong thread. It will come in handy to create a plane level;
Nails or screws;
Building level;
Simple pencil;
Plumb;
Scraper to clean the edges of the drywall sheet;
Drill, whisk and bucket to dilute and stir the solution;
Putty knife. It is better to take two spatulas - wide and narrow;
Rubber mallet;
Ordinary hammer;
Pliers;
Phillips screwdriver.

Let's also look at the materials that will be used in the course of work.

Plasterboard sheets;
Glue, for working with plasterboard sheets. You can also use the starting putty if you add ten percent gypsum or PVA glue to it;
Water;
Primer;
Dowels. The size of each dowel should be from eighty to one hundred and twenty millimeters;
Serpyanka;
Glue.

Preparation for installation

If you are going to drywall a brick or concrete wall, then it must first be cleaned and sprayed with mortar. Then the surface needs to be primed. Soil must be diluted strictly in accordance with the instructions specified by the manufacturer. If it is written on the package that the primer is ready for use, then nothing needs to be diluted. You can immediately start processing the wall.

If the old plaster has been preserved on the wall, it is tedious to carefully examine it in order to identify weak points and treat them with a mortar, and then with a primer.

It is categorically impossible to attach drywall sheets to walls in rooms in which there is constant dampness. And also it is impossible to carry out this type of repair if condensation remains on the walls of the room. This will seriously damage the fastening of the sheets. In such rooms, it is necessary to use a special moisture-resistant drywall and fasten it only to the frame.

Before fixing drywall, it is necessary to inspect with the help of a level and a plumb line for deviations from the vertical and in the alignment. If it is possible, then all the convex places must be knocked down, and the depressions should be covered with mortar in order to perfectly level the surface before starting installation.

After priming, with a pencil or chalk, markings are applied to the wall. If you do this before priming, then all the drawings will simply wash off. Sheets of drywall, on the side of attachment to the wall, must also be lubricated with a primer before attachment. Lighthouses need to be cut out of drywall sheets and lubricated with a primer on both sides.

If this is necessary, the next step in the installation is the installation of electrical wiring. In cases where the wire must pass on the ledges of the wall, it must be drowned in drywall. To do this, you will have to make special grooves in the sheet.

Mounting on flat and curved surfaces

If the wall surface is relatively flat, then beacons will not have to be used. Use a mixer to mix dry powder in water to make glue. If you do not have a mixer, then you can make the glue by hand, but then the process will take much more time and effort.

If you decide to add PVA glue to the putty, then first you need to dilute the glue in water, and only then pour the dry powder. If you do the opposite, then the putty will harden very quickly and turn into a stone. Naturally, after that, it can no longer be used for its intended purpose.

Apply glue to drywall sheets in one continuous strip around the entire perimeter on all edges. In the center of the sheet, you also need to apply several cakes from the solution in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the cakes should be about forty centimeters. To make the fastening sufficiently reliable, you need to glue more than a tenth of the surface of the drywall sheet with glue.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Attach the sheet to the wall strictly vertically. It must be attached and pressed against the wall. It is best if someone will help you with this, since it is problematic to do this process alone. Check how firmly the sheet is attached. If you have any doubts, then press it harder on those places where the lag occurs. Just enough solution is applied to the sheet to allow for this post-adjustment. If the solution is not enough, then theoretically the sheet can be peeled off, but it is better to avoid such situations, since the plasterboard sheet can simply break during the peeling process.

If the wall is tilted or rotated, then beacons will have to be used. Use a strong thread to make a net indicating the desired verticality and flatness. Next, the beacons are installed in the right places. You need to install them so that they touch the thread frame. Then drywall sheets are attached in the same way as in the first version. After that, fix the problem areas with dowels, and seal the seams with putty and sickle.

If you attach drywall sheets to a wooden wall or ceiling, then everything is much easier. To install such a sheathing, it is enough to fasten the sheets to the wall with self-tapping screws or screws. If the wooden wall is not even, then this is corrected by applying additional wooden lining, and all the bulges can be removed with an ordinary planer.

As you can see, there are different ways to install drywall sheets, but the most reliable way to install GKL is to install it on a metal frame. Only in this way will the sheets hold firmly enough.

Successful perception of the repair and construction work carried out. Even the most sophisticated finishing materials will lose all their gloss against the background of depressions or bumps in wall planes. Therefore, the alignment of the walls during the repair can be considered a priority. For its implementation, drywall is the best suited.

GKL, as a finishing material, does not need special advertising. Moisture-resistant, ordinary, fire-resistant - for any room you can choose drywall of the required quality. For bathrooms - moisture resistant, for the corridor - fire-resistant, common for living rooms.

Standard sizes 600x1250, 1200x2000, 1200x2500, 1200x3000 allow the use of this material with virtually no waste. After minimal processing, the surface of the sheets is ready for wallpapering, applying textured plaster, and laying tiles.

There are two ways of fastening the GKL to the walls - frame and frameless.

The first option is much more suitable for large rooms where there is no space limit. The profile frame and the drywall mounted on it take at least 40 mm of the floor and ceiling from each wall (27 mm - profile + 12.5 mm - GKL).
The frameless method allows you to fix drywall sheets directly to the vertical surfaces of a room or office. In addition to saving space, this method is more profitable from an economic point of view. The financial component of the frame is 60% of the cost of walls assembled from plasterboard.

There are three options for frameless installation of drywall sheets on walls:

Fastening sheets with self-tapping screws.
Installation of plasterboard dowels.
Gluing drywall.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the alignment of the walls with drywall sheets, it is necessary to make a general analysis of the proposed activities and choose a method for their implementation.

The overall assessment of the situation includes:

Checking the verticality of the walls. Produced using a level or plumb.
Inspection of the plane of the walls. It is performed with a long rule, or with a stretched cord. The presence of bumps and depressions is revealed.
Checking outside and inside corners. It is carried out in order to determine deviations from geometric correctness (often it is 90 degrees). The tool is most often a square.
Assessment of door and window openings. A check is made vertically and horizontally and the need to adjust the openings with the help of GKL is determined.

Depending on the identified deviations and the condition of the walls, the alignment method is selected. Small errors can be completely eliminated by fixing sheets of drywall directly to existing walls. Large drops and irregularities will require either a frame or GKL installation on a special glue.

Installation of drywall sheets with self-tapping screws

This installation option is possible only if there is a base into which self-tapping screws can be screwed. It can be wood, aerated concrete blocks or plaster partitions.

Preliminary preparation for installation work will consist in the removal of protruding sections of the wall plane. The tubercles of the wooden base are leveled with a hammer and a chisel, it is also possible to use a hatchet. Foam concrete and gypsum partitions are easiest to process with a puncher with a chisel.

Sheets of drywall are attached in a checkerboard pattern. Hardware for fastening are wood screws. The screw length varies depending on the wall material. For facing a relatively flat wooden surface, self-tapping screws 3.9x25 and 3.9x35 mm are suitable.

Self-tapping screws 3.9x45 mm are used for mounting GKL on aerated concrete and gypsum partitions. When tightening the screws, it is necessary to monitor the depth of the recessed head of the hardware. It is considered normal if the screw is immersed in drywall by 1 - 2 mm. The fastening step is about 250 mm at the edge of the sheet and 250 - 350 mm at its center.

Particular attention should be paid to the attachment points of the GKL in the areas - depressions. Strongly tightened self-tapping screws simply deform drywall. As a result, it will exactly repeat the relief of the uneven walls.

In such cases, it makes sense not to reach the hardware, leaving a small space between the base and the sheets. This will not greatly affect the strength of the structure, but the number of layers of putty for leveling will significantly reduce.

GKL fastening with dowels

If it is not possible to screw self-tapping screws into walls and partitions, then drywall can be mounted on dowels. For non-plastered brick, concrete and cinder block bases, driven dowels 6x40 or 6x60 mm are used. When the walls are plastered, and the plaster layer reaches 20 mm, you will have to use hardware 6x80 and even 8x100 mm.

The preparation of seats for the installation of dowels is carried out by a perforator with a drill of the appropriate diameter. The hole is drilled through a sheet of drywall installed in place. The plastic clip should have a “sweat” ending.

It is advisable to tighten the metal core with a screwdriver or screwdriver. Sometimes it is impossible to tighten the self-tapping screw and you have to resort to the help of a hammer. In this case, it is advisable to put a homemade washer - a gasket under the screw head. Such washers can be made from a U-shaped bracket for plasterboards. To do this, the bracket is cut with scissors for metal into several plates, and a self-tapping screw is threaded into the existing holes.

As in the case of mounting sheets on self-tapping screws, depressions on the plane of walls and partitions can become a problem. The recipe for elimination is to not pull the dowel core all the way.

Installation of drywall on the adhesive mixture

Such an assembly is the most difficult and painstaking way to level walls with drywall without a frame. Installation is carried out in the following order:

Inspection of the leveled surface. Includes the definition of protruding places of walls and piers. In these areas, the amount of adhesive applied will be minimal. Identification of areas with swollen plaster and putty. Such places will need to be cleaned up.
Surface preparation for installation. Mechanical removal of old wallpaper, tiles, loose plaster. Notching sections of walls covered with oil or pentaphthalic paints.
Priming of walls and partitions. As a primer, it is better to use a deep penetration primer. For areas covered with paint, concrete contact can be used.
Installation of beacons. The main task of such an event is to create points of support for the back side of the GCR. Lighthouse marks can be plastic clips of dowels with self-tapping screws screwed into them. The heads of the hardware should create a plane on which the drywall will be mounted.
Installation of drywall sheets. A special adhesive mass is applied both to the wall and to the plasterboard. The glue is applied not in a continuous layer, but in fragments. The distance between such fragments is 30 - 40 cm. The height is 15 - 20 mm more than the gap between the base and the back of the drywall. The sheet is pressed against the wall, and the correctness of its installation is checked by a rule with a level.

A wooden ceiling can be perfectly sheathed with drywall. This finish is not only very beautiful. The technology by which drywall is fastened to a wooden ceiling or to a ceiling on metal profiles allows you to create multi-level ceilings that will be decorated with various borders or other relief elements.

In addition, such a ceiling is easily putty, you can embed lighting in it, and glue stylish stucco molding on its surface. It is also important that such a ceiling will breathe perfectly, and the natural microclimate will not be disturbed. Drywall is a modern environmentally friendly material that allows you to create miracles with the interior of the house.

Methods for attaching drywall to a wooden ceiling

Installation of drywall is most relevant when there is a need for facing a very uneven ceiling, especially in those rooms in which the height is three or more meters.

To date, there are several ways to attach drywall to a wooden ceiling.

Namely:

On adhesive materials (special adhesives for drywall);
On wooden slats-profiles;
On metal.

Drywall in very rare cases is attached to the adhesive material, directly to the ceiling itself. This is only possible if the ceiling is perfectly flat. In addition, this method is not practical, since it is likely that the GKL (gypsum boards) will sag or fall off altogether.

Therefore, we will not pay special attention to this method in this article.

Most often, options are used using a specially prepared frame. And then we will consider in detail how to hem drywall to the ceiling and the technology for manufacturing these frames.

Wooden slat frame

Such a frame allows you to hide all sorts of flaws in the ceiling, while not sacrificing much of the height of the room. Plasterboard on wooden slats is more preferable if you need to mount a simple single-level ceiling. This method is cheaper than using a metal frame.

However, only high-quality bars and slats, perfectly dried in the chamber, are suitable for the frame, which subsequently will not be deformed and will be able to withstand a decent load for many years.

Before proceeding with the installation work, you need to visually determine the lowest point of the ceiling. It is from her that we mark the design position of the frame: we retreat 5 cm, and with the help of a level we draw a flat horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. If you do this work correctly, then your end point will coincide with the start.
Further along this horizontal along the entire perimeter, with the help of self-tapping screws, we fix the rail.

Please note: how correctly you calculate and design the frame will depend on the success of all subsequent work!

Next, we fix the base bars to the ceiling surface with such a step that will ensure the reliability of fastening the hemmed system. The recommended distance between the base bars, located in parallel, should not be more than 0.8 m.
In a perpendicular direction, we attach load-bearing strips to them, which will be the basis on which drywall can later be hemmed. In the event that you have a small area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling, a single-base frame will suffice, in which the adjusted wooden bars to the ceiling will simultaneously serve as carriers for fixing the plasterboard. Of course, the step of fastening the bars in such a frame will decrease and will be about 0.5 m.

Installation of a wooden frame and drywall

We fasten the bars to the ceiling with self-tapping screws on dowels with a fastening step of 0.8 m. In the case of a two-layer sheathing, the step is reduced, because double the weight of the binder. The attachment points of the bars located in the neighborhood should not be on the same straight line. They need to be alternated in a checkerboard pattern.
Installation of drywall on a wooden ceiling is carried out with a step of attaching the sheet to the frame of 0.15 m in the case of a single-layer filing. The fastening step for the first layer can be made 0.5 m when filing in two layers. When fixing the second hemmed layer, the pitch of the screws will be 0.15 m.

Note!
The length of the screws is 25 - 35 mm. This screw size is perfect for 12.5mm drywall thickness.
If the thickness of the sheets is different, it is necessary to select fasteners based on the depth of entry into the material.

Fastening beams to the ceiling

Base bars to a wooden ceiling can be carried out on straight metal hangers (brackets) or adjustable metal hangers with a wire hanger. Through the use of direct suspensions, it is possible to increase the distance between the plasterboard and the ceiling surface.

We fasten the brackets to the beam on both sides with self-tapping screws. We shoot the brackets themselves to the supporting ceiling and bend them along the width of the bar at a right angle. If you need to increase the distance between the ceiling and the plasterboard, there is a D111 system (suspended ceiling on a wooden frame).

Drywall on a wooden ceiling on a wooden frame allows the use of wire hangers. The frame elements on the hangers are held by special clamps, which allow for quick installation and the necessary height adjustment.

Metal carcass

How to fix drywall to using a metal frame (see also)? In fact, it is not so difficult if there is a detailed instruction. The metal profile is a more reliable and durable material for creating a frame under the gypsum board than wood.

Before installing the frame, you need to decide to what height the plasterboard ceiling will be lowered. Between the plasterboard and the ceiling, you can install not only lamps, but also various communications (ventilation, water supply and electrical wiring).

You will need 2 people to install the frame and support the sheets. One sheet of drywall weighs about 15 kg.

What is the frame made of

The metal frame consists of guide profiles. They hold the main frame of the entire structure and rack profiles are fixed to them, on which drywall is mounted. The cross section of the profiles has a U-shape. And rack profiles are similar to the letter “C”.

The length of the profiles is always three meters. If it is necessary to increase the length of the profiles, use the butt joints, which are inserted inside and fastened with self-tapping screws. With the help of suspensions, it is possible to correct and level the plane of even the most crooked ceiling and give the frame structure relative rigidity.

In any hardware store you can find very convenient direct hangers, which you will use in your work. Other types of suspensions are quite difficult to adjust, and they are also quite unreliable due to the manufacturing defects.

Rack profiles can be perpendicularly fastened using cruciform joints, which are also called crabs. If you are going to install the ceiling in a small room, then this will not take you much time and effort, but it is still better to find yourself an assistant.

Frame installation

To install the frame and GCR, you will need the following tools:

gun for driving dowels;
knife for cutting drywall sheets;
felt-tip pen;
level (2-3 meters);
drill;
a hammer;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws for drywall, metal and dowels;
metal profiles;
drywall panels.

First you need to determine where in your room is the lowest corner, and then measure the distance from it that you need to lower the frame. After that, draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter with a level and a pencil and be guided clearly along it when fixing the guide profiles.

These profiles, depending on the type of surface, are fixed either with dowels or self-tapping screws in increments of 20-30 cm - the main thing is that it is firmly and securely attached to the wall.

After that, we proceed to the installation of rack profiles. In the event that the width of your room is approximately 2.5 meters, then a metal frame with sufficient rigidity will be quite enough. The assembly of such a frame is very simple.

You just need to attach the rack profiles to the wall and fasten them. It is necessary to fix them at a distance of 0.4 meters, using the drawn lines located on the side walls.

Next, cut the rack profiles along the length of the room with metal scissors and insert them into the guides, and then fasten the resulting structure with self-tapping screws. To give it rigidity, you need to use special suspensions.

They need to be fixed to the ceiling with dowels-nails in increments of 60-80 centimeters, and then further improve strength with self-tapping screws. If you do not use suspensions, then the frame will not be securely fixed in the end, and after puttying and painting all joints will crack.

In the event that you will install a chandelier or ceiling lamp, then it is necessary to mount mortgages, since plasterboard sheets will not be able to support the weight of your lamp. Attach several rack profiles to the frame for the future location of the lighting fixture.

After you have mounted the frame, you can start installing the GKL. For this you will need: a clerical knife and a felt-tip pen. We make markings on a sheet of drywall according to the size of the room and cut it off.

Then we fasten the plasterboard to the ceiling using self-tapping screws with a pitch of 25 cm. It is easier to screw them in with a special screwdriver.

Slightly sink the heads of the fixing screws into the drywall panel. The next step is gluing the sickle mesh to the joints (to avoid cracks), then primer and putty.

For leveling or redevelopment of living space, partitions made of GVL or drywall are used. GKL win against the background of brick and block partitions in that they are light, the equipment of such structures is quick and simple, and after completion of work there is little dirt and dust left. GKL and GVL are economical, good heat and sound insulation.

Types of materials

In addition to the standard GKL, there are such types of material:

moisture resistant;
fire resistant;

Moisture-resistant is used in places with high humidity, fire-resistant is used for other rooms (kitchen, office space).

GKL is great for finishing living rooms, because it is environmentally friendly and, when heated, does not emit poisons. Regulates the microclimate of the room in a natural way.

Moisture resistant drywall

For durable structures, GVL is used. These are gypsum-fiber sheets that are stronger than drywall. GVL is made from building gypsum with additives. GVL is an environmentally friendly material for dry construction, it does not have a cardboard shell, like drywall. But there are such disadvantages of using GVL:

GVL is heavier than GKL;
costs more.

Characteristics of a wooden frame

GCR fastening to a wooden frame is often used.

A timber frame is cheaper than a metal one, it is made from wooden planks and bars, softwood is usually used. Bars with a section of 40 * 40 centimeters are used at the junction of two layers or where massive objects (mirror or cabinet) will be on the wall.

Material requirements:

The moisture content of wood is from 12 to 18%;
Fire treatment must comply with the first group of fire safety;
The wall thickness should not exceed 132 mm.

Before use, wooden slats are treated with protective equipment against fire and pests, and checked for knots and irregularities.

Base fixing

Screwing drywall parts onto wooden slats must be carried out in residential and dry buildings. The frame is assembled in accordance with the vertical and horizontal levels, otherwise the structure will come out skewed.

Construction tools:

a hammer;
perforator;
nails;
building level;
self-tapping screws;
mounting dowels;
metal corners.

If the design needs additional insulation, then this is done during assembly.

Base fastening technology

Stages of work:

The partition is preliminarily marked on the ceiling with the help of a level, then the wooden frame is fixed;
Fix the strapping bars, starting from the ceiling. Then comes the floor, and after it - the walls. It will be easier to work if all the coatings in the building are made of wood (liquid nails or self-tapping screws will do). If the house is made of brick and concrete, then fastening is done with dowels and anchors to the ceiling;
Having fixed the bars on the ceiling, they make markings on the floor (at least three marks) and continue to mount the frame.
After checking the compliance of the fasteners with respect to the ceiling and floor, they begin to mount the base. To do this, it is enough to connect the floor and ceiling guides with vertical bars. The distance between them is observed at least 40-50 centimeters. It is very important to install these bars with high quality, since the main load will fall on them.
After installing the verticals, the racks are fixed to the corners with self-tapping screws on both sides for 3-4 holes.

Mounting GKL on the base

Begin sheathing from solid sheets or the largest pieces. They are fastened with self-tapping screws to the bars every 25-30 centimeters.

Facing

When sheathed with material on only one side, then the insulation is laid and the electrical wiring is pulled before installing the top layer.

During the installation of the other side, the insulation is laid as needed. It is better to do without pulling cables, but if they are still needed, they are placed in a special protective tube.

If the partition has a doorway, increase the number of posts and horizontal lintels.

Tips for beginners:

When mounting the second side of the wall, move the sheet one step so that the structure is strong;
To avoid problems during fastening, make sure that the joints of the gypsum plasterboard fall exactly in the middle of the vertical racks.

isolation

Sometimes it is impossible to do without additionally isolating the structure, especially if it is not just a decorative part of the interior. There is nothing complicated in this, it is enough to lay and fix the material.

Structural insulation

For this, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polystyrene is suitable. Rigid material is already attached to the inside of the lined partition.

Each material has both disadvantages and advantages, it all depends on what the room in which they are used is intended for.

Working with irregularities

If suddenly the base is uneven, the unevenness should be identified with the help of a beam. For this:

Lay a beam along the wall and draw a line from the outer edge;
Vertically lean the rack wood beam, mark at regular intervals the location of the butt behind its exit on the floor.

It is important to install the frame evenly so that the whole structure comes out even.

If there are difficulties with plasterboard sheathing, the video will help:

Advantages of using GKL

This material has a number of advantages over other raw materials:

low cost and assembly costs;
little weight;
fast installation;
the best sound and heat insulation;
the ability to use even in freezing rooms;
wall alignment;
installation of drywall does not require additional preparation of the base;
after installation, there is little debris and dust left.

If everything is done correctly, as a final touch, it remains to complete the decorative wall decoration. And drywall constructions will last a long time and save a lot of time and money.

gipsohouse.ru

Is it possible to fix drywall on wooden bars: 7 secrets of good fastening

Sheathing walls with drywall can be done using a frameless connection or using a supporting frame. Today, any design ideas can be realized using such a simple and popular material as drywall. It is now used everywhere: with the help of it, interior partitions are erected, window slopes are trimmed, walls are sheathed from the inside and out, the ceiling is trimmed, and interior decorative decoration of the room is also popular. There are several ways to cover walls with drywall: frameless connection and the use of a supporting frame. Most often, the second method is used for wooden surfaces, and wood is chosen as the frame material.

So that plasterboard wall cladding does not bring problems and pleases the eye for a long time, a number of very important points should be taken into account before starting work.

Wooden frame features:

First of all, you need to know that if you decide to install drywall on a frame made of wooden bars, then you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the room in which the work will be done. Remember that humidity adversely affects the frame made of wooden slats.
Carefully inspect the beams before buying: they must be free of cracks, chips and other damage.
The wood from which the slats and timber are made must comply with fire safety standards.
Before work, the tree must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition: this will increase its service life. It can be anything, but sodium fluoride is more often recommended.

Before sheathing the walls with drywall in a wooden house, impregnate the walls with an antiseptic composition

Wood is an environmentally friendly material that is pleasant to work with.

We mount drywall on wooden slats: the pros of the solution

Despite the fact that many builders prefer metal as the basis for drywall constructions, wood also has its obvious advantages, which make a wooden frame a worthy competitor to a metal counterpart!

The advantages of a wooden frame over a metal one:

Availability of material and its low cost.
High construction speed.
Environmental friendliness.
Easy to operate.

You can mount drywall on wooden slats - it's simple and affordable

Before you start working with wood, the slats will need to be left for a few days inside the room where the installation will take place, for acclimatization.

Finishing the walls in a wooden house with drywall: preparation for work

In any construction business, special tools are indispensable. To make the job go smoothly, purchase everything you need in advance. What you need in working with drywall is listed below.

Tools:

Drill or screwdriver;
Hacksaw or jigsaw;
Roulette;
Marker or chemical pencil.

Before you start decorating the walls, you should prepare the necessary materials and tools

Materials:

Wooden slats and bars;
Self-tapping screws, screws;
Metal corners.

Any finishing work begins, first of all, with the cleaning of work surfaces.

The first step is to remove the old coating from the walls, the remnants of insulation and sound insulation - in a word, any items that may interfere with the work process.

Before work, the walls must be coated with a special primer to prevent the appearance of fungi and mold.

How to sheathe a wooden house from the inside with drywall: we make a frame

When the walls are ready for work, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame itself from wooden beams.

We remind you that the slats must be pre-treated with an antiseptic, which will prevent rotting and destruction of the material.

A few tips before work:

The distance between the bars should be 40-60 cm.
The width of the rails themselves should be about 3-5 cm, but it should be borne in mind that at the joints of the drywall sheets, the thickness should not be less than 8 cm.
Fastening the rails is best done directly to the wooden wall and to each other. For these purposes, self-tapping screws are perfect.

You can sheathe a wooden house from the inside using a frame made of wooden beams

The assembly of the frame itself should begin with the fastening of solid bars along the walls and ceiling. After that, you can proceed with the installation of rails, which will be located vertically. Next, we fix additional horizontal short jumper rails between the vertical bars. Between themselves, parts of the frame can be fastened with building corners and overlays, this will give it additional stability.

When carrying out work, vertical and horizontal rails must be installed strictly according to the level!

After that, if necessary, you will need to align the frame with the wooden wall. This is done as follows: bars of the required thickness are placed in the right places. After the installation of the frame is completed, you can begin to attach drywall sheets to the resulting slats and beams.

Drywall walls in a wooden house: preparing the material

Before you start attaching drywall sheets to the frame, they need to be cut. When cutting drywall, be careful and careful, use high-quality tools that will ensure your safety.

To cut sheets of drywall you will need:

Long rail or long level;
Pencil or marker;
Sharp knife;
Roulette.

First of all, we measure the desired length and width of the drywall sheet. Next, we cut the first layer of paper with a knife and break the drywall base of the sheet along the cut line. Then we cut through the paper of the sheet on the other side, bending it at an angle of 90®, and grind the uneven ends with sandpaper or a file.

Drywall sheets must be cut before fixing.

When calculating sheet dimensions, you need to take into account that you will arrange them with an offset.

Before installation, you may encounter such a problem as cutouts. They can be on the edge and in the middle of the sheet. If the cutout is located on the edge, with a jigsaw or hacksaw, you need to cut two lines parallel to each other in the opposite direction from the edge and break the drywall sheet. To make a cut in the middle of the sheet, you need to saw through three lines and break.

How to align the walls with drywall in a wooden house: installation of drywall sheets on the frame

After preparing the drywall, you can proceed directly to attaching it to the crate. To do this, we close the sheet to the rails and fix them with self-tapping screws. One edge of the sheet should be as close to the wall as possible. The heads of the screws must be below the level of the sheet.

Important points:

Screws and self-tapping screws should be on wood: they are better fixed in wood.
The edges of the drywall sheets should be in the middle of the spacers.
Use an intermediate profile if necessary.

You can level the walls in a wooden house using a frame on which drywall sheets will be attached.

When leveling the walls, keep an eye on the distance between the screws: it should not exceed 25-30 cm.

Processing a wall or partition made of drywall in a wooden house

After the installation is completed, the joints between the drywall sheets and the holes from the self-tapping screws should be processed.

For this we need:

Putty knife;
Special putty;
Reinforced tape or mesh;
Electric drill with a nozzle for stirring putty.

To process walls or partitions in the house, you will need putty, reinforced tape, an electric drill and a spatula

You need to start work with the preparation of the putty mixture. We advise you to use a special putty for sealing seams. Also choose a spatula that is comfortable to work with. It should be with a flexible blade and a comfortable handle.

To avoid cracks in the seams, work should be carried out after establishing a constant temperature and humidity in the room.

We apply the finished mixture with a spatula to the drywall seams, as if pressing it between them, then cut off a piece of tape of the desired size and glue it onto the treated seam. Treat the rest of the seams and joints in the same way. To fill the hole from the drywall screws, you need to apply a stack of putty to the right place, smoothing it in different directions. After carrying out all the necessary processes, you can optionally prepare a wall finished with plasterboard for further work. There can be a lot of finishing options, it all depends on your desire, imagination and possibilities.

How to sheathe walls with drywall with your own hands (video)

Practice shows that if you follow certain rules and technology when plasterboarding wooden walls, the work will not take much time and will not be difficult. In addition, by installing drywall in a log house on a wooden frame with your own hands, you significantly save the family budget.

Interior decoration of a wooden house with plasterboard (photo of the process)

homeli.ru

Installation of drywall on a wooden frame

We will talk only about the longitudinal (vertical) scheme for the manufacture of cladding. The approximate sequence for manufacturing cladding on a wooden frame is as follows:

1. Mark the position of the battens and cut them to size. When cutting racks, subtract the thickness of the lower and upper horizontal bars from the length of the wall.

2. Install the racks and the upper and lower horizontal bars.

3. Install short bars over door and window openings, slightly shifting the vertical short bars so as not to make cuts in drywall.

4. Finish (paste over GKL) window and door openings inside. Nail sheets of drywall onto the walls.

5. Nail sheets around window and door openings.

6. Close the joints between the sheets and prepare the walls for finishing.

Walls made of brick and masonry are rarely perfectly even, therefore, in the manufacture of plasterboard cladding, all irregularities should be taken into account. The greatest difficulty is the alignment of the bars of the crate vertically and horizontally. If you do not pay due attention to this procedure, even and smooth walls will not work.

Installation of the frame with an uneven wall is performed as follows. First, the irregularities of the wall are revealed. The cut out lower horizontal beam of the future frame is placed on the floor near the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Perform marking under the racks with a step of 600 mm. Then press the rack bar vertically against the wall and at regular intervals mark the position of the butt when it goes beyond the line on the floor. Connect the marks with a second line parallel to the first. Attach the support beam to the floor so that its outer edge runs along the outer line of the mark. Install the vertical bars on the support, leveling their outer surfaces, inserting, if necessary, gaskets. Evenness is checked by plumb, level and rule. Fix the horizontal beam at the level of the ceiling. It is more convenient to first install two extreme racks (vertical bars) and pull a cord between them. Then they install intermediate racks and check the evenness of the installation along the cord. If the floor is uneven, then something is also placed under the support bar in the right places (so that it is installed on the same level), and then all the other bars are set.

To align the racks, use scraps of plywood, fiberboard, wood of the desired thickness. The spacers can be covered with a little wood glue before hammering into the bars. Gaskets are also installed in cases where the ends of the bar lie tightly on the surface of the wall, and in any of its middle parts there is a gap (concave wall).

When deflecting over a large distance, the step between the dowels should be reduced in order to increase the rigidity of the bar.

If the room has a flat floor and if its area allows, you can simplify the process of mounting the frame. To do this, carefully measure the inner perimeter of the wall. Then a frame is assembled on the floor, the outer perimeter of which should be equal to the measured perimeter of the wall, minus 5 mm in length and 5 mm in height. Bearing bars are inserted into the resulting frame in increments of 600 mm, and they are fastened with nails driven through the frame into the ends, which is much more convenient. Since the assembled frame lies face down on a flat floor, when assembled, it will already have a flat surface. Therefore, the stage of leveling each beam is thus excluded. It remains only to insert the assembled frame into the perimeter of the wall and, having aligned their edges, fix them with dowels with screws or dowel-nails.

Marking for conventional (universal, etc.) dowels is performed using an electric drill. To do this, the bar is applied to the floor, or to the ceiling, or to the wall in the position in which it should be after installation. Having asked a partner to securely hold the bar in its original position, through holes are drilled in it in increments of 800-1000 mm so that the drill makes marks on the wall at the exit. The drill diameter should be equal to or slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws used. After that, the wall is drilled for the installation of dowels. The holes of the dowels after their installation exactly match the holes in the bar.

In the event that the fastening of the bars will have to be performed without a partner, then do so. Find the location of one dowel. A hole is drilled in the wall (floor, ceiling) under it, into which the dowel is installed. After that, the bar is fixed on one dowel and, holding it with one hand so that it does not move, through holes are drilled in the bar until a clear mark is obtained on the wall. After that, the bar can be removed or simply rotated around the axis of the installed dowel (after unscrewing a little screw) so that access to the marked places is opened. After that, holes are drilled and the rest of the dowels are installed.

It is most convenient to fasten the frame to a brick or concrete wall with dowel-nails. The bar is applied to the wall in the appropriate position, through holes are drilled in it in increments of 800-1000 mm. Then change the drill and drill a hole in the wall. The diameter of the drill with a pobedit tip is determined by the diameter of the dowel.

The frame is fastened to a wooden wall using long galvanized nails.

Facing the walls of the room with drywall can be started either from the corner, or from the window or doorway. To fasten the sheathing to a wooden frame, use wood screws 35 mm long with a fastening pitch of 250 mm or galvanized nails (preferably special jagged ones) 40 mm long (for sheets 12.5 mm thick) with a fastening pitch of 200 mm. GCR is attached around the perimeter and to intermediate posts (see Fig. 47). The indent from the edges is the same - from the edge of the edge lined with cardboard at least 10 mm and from the edge of the unlined edge at least 15 mm. Work is carried out from the corner in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. Nails are driven in until their heads are slightly below the paper surface. Neither the head of the nail nor the screw should tear the paper. There should be a space of 5-7 mm between the sheets of drywall for finishing the seams. A gap of 10 mm must be left between the floor and the end edges of the plasterboard sheets. Between the ceiling and the upper end edges of the plasterboard sheets, it is also necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm. All joints between sheets and holes from nails or screws must be puttied and cleaned.

If the length of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire room in height, the sheets, when facing, are placed with an offset of adjacent end joints (off-set), and transverse bars are mounted at the joints.

Source: P. Smirnova - Drywall. Step by Step: Encyclopedia of Modern Repair

niola-td.ru

Wooden frame for drywall - how to assemble it yourself? + Video

A properly made wooden frame for drywall is in no way inferior in its reliability to a supporting structure made of metal profiles.

Gypsum boards (gypsum plasterboards) are a fairly complex material of the composite type. It is made from plaster, cardboard and various additives. The latter give drywall special qualities. The main among them is high fire safety and excellent sound insulation. In addition, when using GKL, a minimum of dirt and waste is generated. This distinguishes it favorably from other construction activities.

Plasterboard sheets are made of three types:

standard;
fire resistant;
moisture resistant.

Types of drywall sheets

GKL is used for the construction of partitions in residential and office premises, finishing wall and ceiling surfaces. Some modern manufacturers (for example, Knauf) have launched in recent years the production of special drywall, ideal for flooring. Due to the fact that GKL does not emit harmful compounds during operation (the material is considered environmentally safe) and is characterized by an acidity index approximately identical to the acidity of human skin, it is often used for repair work in residential buildings.

Among other things, drywall is able to create an optimal microclimate in living rooms. It can naturally regulate the humidity in them. Today, drywall sheets are almost indispensable for various types of repair work. They make both simple designs and chic multi-level structures. Due to this, you can create the most modern bright and original design in your home.

There are the following technologies for mounting drywall sheets: frameless and frame. In the first case, sheet products are attached to the wall with an adhesive. The second technology involves the preliminary arrangement of a special frame. Subsequently, drywall is attached to it.

The frameless method makes it possible to save room space. Its significant drawback is that the installation of GKL is allowed only on a flat wall. But with the help of a frame technique, drywall can be fixed on surfaces that have bulges and depressions. But at the same time, the total volume of the room becomes smaller.

Frameless installation method GKL

The frame technology for mounting GKL is a minimum of construction dust. You do not need to make grooves in the wall for wiring and other household communications, all systems are placed in the free space between the structure skeleton and the wall surface.

The frame for the subsequent installation of drywall sheets on the wall is easily built with your own hands. A home craftsman with minimal experience in carrying out repair activities will erect a skeleton for a plasterboard in a matter of hours. And then it will also quickly fasten drywall to a self-made structure.

In most cases, the frame is made of metal profile products. But there is also a simpler method. It makes it possible to build skeletons for gypsum boards from light and easy-to-install wooden products (battens, beams). We will talk about this method of creating a frame structure for drywall with our own hands.

It is recommended to build a frame for mounting the GKL on the wall from coniferous wood. In this case, the wood must have a moisture content in the range of 12-18%, and also undergo a special fire-retardant treatment at the manufacturer of the beams or laths. It is also recommended to additionally apply antiseptic agents to wooden products. This treatment will protect the frame from:

rodents (the smell of an antiseptic well repels mice and other animals that can damage the structure);
mold and fungal microorganisms that destroy wood;
carpenter insects;
biological natural decay.

It is allowed to do the antiseptic protection of wood with your own hands. For these purposes, you can use sodium fluoride. It is sold as a light gray fine powder. You will need to mix the purchased mixture in well-heated (but not boiling) water (35–40 g of the drug per 1 liter of liquid). Then process with the resulting composition all the elements of the future frame for drywall.

Sodium fluoride for antiseptic protection of wood

Fluorine antiseptic easily penetrates into wooden products and is practically not washed out of them. It is important that it is non-toxic to humans, has no odor, and does not decompose during operation. Working with such a composition is simple and safe. Almost complete analogue of fluoride is sodium silicofluoride. It is allowed to purchase such a drug. But before use, add a little soda (calcined) to it.

It is impossible to carry out antiseptic treatment of wood with compounds containing the following components:

anthracene oils;
coal;
creosote;
slate.

The effect of their use will be good. But they are harmful to human health, as they are recognized as toxic substances. Pro tip! Before arranging the frame for mounting drywall on the wall, be sure to let the wooden products rest in the room where you will build the structure. In 48–72 hours, the wood will fully adapt to the humidity and temperature conditions. This process in the language of specialists is called tree acclimatization.

The construction we are interested in is made of wooden bars or slats of different sections - from 3x5 cm to 5x6 cm. The specific dimensions of the lumber are selected taking into account the expected load on the frame. All work is carried out using the most common construction tools - hacksaws or saws, electric drills, screwdrivers, screwdrivers, levels. Self-tapping screws for drywall, stainless screws and nails, mounting dowels are used as fasteners.

Important point! GKL is mounted on a frame structure in cases where wall surfaces are characterized by poor-quality coating (plaster or other) and significant roughness. It is also desirable to install such a structure when finishing walls in rooms with a height of 3 meters or more. The implementation of the adhesive technology for mounting GKL with their own hands in such high rooms is recognized by professionals as inappropriate.

Installation of plasterboard on a frame structure

A wooden frame on the wall is created according to the following scheme:

Analyze the state of the wall surface. Found irregularities are sealed with putty (plaster), areas with a peeling old coating are cleaned.
Mark up the wall. Perform this operation with strict observance of levels and angles (use measuring tools).
The horizontal beam is mounted first. It should be fixed to the floor base with anchors.
Attach wooden slats vertically to the installed beam. They should be about 1 cm from the edge of the crate. The distance between the individual vertical elements is 60 cm.
Check the correct position of the rails with a level.
Install the second horizontal element on the ceiling.

Before proceeding with the installation of the gypsum board, you should align the frame made. If the floors in the room are uneven, the correct position of the horizontal beam can be set by lining pieces of wood or scraps of chipboard products under it. After leveling the skeleton, firmly fix all its parts. That's the whole technology of assembling a wooden frame on the wall. Feel free to proceed with the installation of the GKL on a skeleton made by yourself.

The installation of drywall sheets should begin from the window or doorway of the room or from its far corner. GCR is fixed with wood screws. The mounting step of the hardware is 25 cm. It is recommended to use self-tapping screws with a length of no more than 3.5 cm.

Installation of drywall sheets on a wooden frame

Important note: if you are installing moisture resistant sheets, it is best to fix them to the frame with jagged galvanized nails. Place the first self-tapping screw (nail) at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge of the unlined edge of the GKL (1 cm from the lined one). Another subtlety of the work - when fixing drywall, it is necessary to move from one edge of the sheet to the other. In this case, the installation of products is carried out end-to-end. Special edges are provided on the end parts of the GKL. According to them, you can subsequently easily close the gaps between the products (first prime them, and then process them with putty).

How to sheathe walls with drywall