Proper, constant care will keep your garden beautiful, tidy and healthy. During the preparation of the garden for the fruiting season, restore the crown, fertilize, protect plants from pests.
First work on site
At the beginning of spring in the garden:
- carefully examine the trees;
- free branches from loose snow;
- construct supports for sagging branches;
- remove insulation from stems;
- reveal cracks formed from a sharp temperature drop.
Under the separated bark, pests quickly master, fungal infections develop, and hollows form in frost holes. Wounds heal without delay.
After the snow melts in the garden, put things in order:
- raking leaves;
- collect broken branches;
- uproot the first weeds.
Immediately carry out the spring whitewashing of trees. Timely execution of work will help to avoid burns of the bark by the spring sun, protect from pests. The composition of the solution, its concentration should be determined by a specialist.
They also put things in order in the plantings of shrubs: they remove mulch, last year's leaves. It is better to burn all the remains, as larvae, harmful insects can winter in them.
Spraying trees, shrubs
Processing helps to destroy overwintered pests, fruit rot, and prevents the development of diseases. In the spring period, three treatments of trees and berry bushes are carried out with special preparations.
The first spraying is done before the buds swell, as soon as the threat of night frost has passed. The next irrigation is carried out before flowering, the last - a week after it.
Only an agronomist can choose the right chemicals, prepare combined formulations. depends on the height of the tree, the density of the crown.
| № | Tree/shrub height | Unit rev. | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | up to 1 m | PC. | from 100 r. |
| 2 | 1-2 m | PC. | from 200 rubles |
| 3 | 2-3 m | PC. | from 300 r. |
| 4 | 3-4 m | PC. | from 400 rubles |
| 5 | 5-7 m | PC. | from 1,000 rubles |
| 6 | Above 7 m | PC. | from 2 000 rubles |
| 7 | Lawn | weaving | from 500 r. |
Spring top dressing of the garden
The application of mineral fertilizers in the spring is necessary to replenish nutrients in the soil, the growth and fruiting of trees.
On gentle areas, fertilizing with mineral compounds is carried out until the snow melts. Together with melt water, useful additives will be absorbed into the soil. Gardens growing on the slopes are fertilized after the snow melts.
It is important to choose the right dosage of fertilizers: an excess or lack of nutrients negatively affects the development, fruiting of trees and bushes. The amount of fertilizer is calculated by the agronomist depending on the age of the fruit tree, the condition of the trunk, and the bark.
In the spring, fruit trees and berry crops are carefully poured twice. The first watering is carried out before the buds swell, the second - three weeks after flowering.
The soil in the trunk circles of trees is regularly loosened, mulched, and weeds are removed. carried out by our experts. The cost of services does not include the cost of materials (geotextile, mulch).
Removing unwanted growth
Fruit trees, shrubs often scatter shoots that reduce the attractiveness of the garden, slow down the growth, development of garden plantings, disrupt the harmony of landscape design. In the process of updating the garden, it becomes necessary to remove mature trees,.
Our specialists carefully and safely carry out all work on. The cost of work depends on the type, size of tree-like plants.
Notes:
1) The cost of removal depends on the size of the plant to be removed. The removal of plant residues is paid separately.
2) When removing vegetable turf (lawn), transportation over a distance of more than 50 m is paid extra.
Comprehensive garden care
our company will take responsibility for preparing your garden for the new season. We have sufficient experience, the necessary tools, and the desire to help gardeners.
You can entrust the care of your garden to professionals. Call!
When choosing a plant, you need to pay attention to the packaging of its root system. Plants in containers planted in open ground during the entire growing season - from early spring to late autumn. Optimal timing for planting plants with an open root system - spring and autumn, when plants are in a natural state of reduced activity of physiological processes. Spring plantings are made after thawing and warming up of the soil, before the start of active bud break and shoot formation, autumn - after leaf fall. Overdrying of the roots is unacceptable, especially for conifers.
The optimal dimensions of pits for tree seedlings are 1.0-1.2 m in diameter, up to 0.8 m deep. For shrubs, a diameter of 0.6-0.6 m and a depth of 0.6 m are sufficient. The edges of the pit must be strictly vertical, and the entire volume to have a regular cylindrical shape. First, they remove the top layer of soil on the bayonet of a shovel, free it from the grass and lay it in a pile on the edge of the pit. The lower infertile layer is also laid separately. Grass, the upper and lower layers of the earth will be needed when refueling and decorating the pit. To fill the landing pit, it is necessary to prepare drainage material: broken brick, expanded clay, pebbles, sand. Prepare a soil mixture that should be sufficiently nutritious.
The composition of the soil mixture:
- 1 part river sand
- 2 parts compost
- 1 part fertile soil
- 1.0-2.0 kg of lime
- 1.0-1.5 kg double superphosphate
- up to 1.0 kg wood ash
The components of the mixture are loaded into the pit and thoroughly mixed, having previously thrown the grass left over from cutting the sod into it.
Landing. Shrubs are planted in cloudy weather. The plant is installed by the root on the prepared mound of earth in the planting pit and the position of the root neck (the place where the trunk passes into the root) is leveled at a height of 3-5 cm from the surface of the edge of the pit. Then the roots are sprinkled with earth, filling all the space between them. Next, a stake is set to which the seedling is attached, a hill is formed around the trunk and carefully trampled down. Around the seedling from infertile soil (dug out earlier), a dense annular roller is formed, the purpose of which is not to let water through when watering the seedling or treating it with stimulant solutions. Water the plant generously. After watering, pour a mixture of earth with humus or peat into the ring. This will significantly reduce the evaporation of water from the hole and prevent surface drying and cracking of the soil around the seedling.
Care. Behind the trees and bushes easy to care for - they do not require regular weeding and thinning. Basically, care comes down to feeding, watering, pruning. With pruning, you can rejuvenate the plant by cutting out old branches and releasing young shoots into the open. Trees and shrubs are pruned to encourage flowering and growth year after year. Mulching soil is also very important. Mulching means covering areas of soil near the soil with a layer of some kind, preferably organic material, to retain moisture. For soil mulching, plant materials such as grass, straw, leaves, hedge trimmings, sod, wood waste and bark, as well as well-ripened compost. This organic material is spread in a thin layer on flowerbeds. For mulching black film is also used. Under the mulch layer, the soil does not experience sudden temperature fluctuations, does not dry out during dry periods and does not become waterlogged during heavy rains. It remains moderately moist, warm and loose. Mulch also inhibits weed growth, while organic matter improves soil fertility. For example, sawdust and shavings, among other things, repel slugs, however, it is worth remembering that they acidify the soil. The most favorable time for mulching is the end of spring - the beginning of summer, when the soil is well warmed up. The mulching layer of bark under trees and shrubs can reach a thickness of 20 cm. Pebbles, which are especially good for flower beds and flower beds, can also protect the soil from drying out and retard the growth of weeds.
Compared to other types of plantings (rockeries, mixborders, rose gardens), trees do not require so much attention if they are properly cared for during the first few years.
The main care activities include watering, loosening, weeding near the trunk circles, top dressing and shaping pruning.
Within two to three years, you need to regularly check the strapping (ensure the immobility of the root ball in the ground and protect the growing roots from tearing in windy weather) and loosen them as the trunk thickens (constrictions prevent the flow of nutrients from the roots to the crown, slow down the growth and development of the tree ).
Spring
In March-April, before bud break, the dead bark is cleaned from the boles with a metal brush. At the same time, trees are pruned:
- sanitary - remove diseased, frozen and damaged branches;
- forming - they form the habitus of the plant, regulate its size, create a symmetrical, uniform crown and a strong skeleton, which affects the resistance of trees to the wind and the illumination of the crown, leads to an improvement in the quality of flowering, an increase in the size of the fruit. Formation includes pinching, shortening shoots and thinning the crown. Thinning the crowns ensures the physiological and biological conformity of the crown and root system, better ventilation and illumination of the crowns. Sick, damaged, old, intertwining and weak branches are cut out and a pinnate, stemless, standard, tiered, spherical or flat crown is created.
- removal of diseased, drying out, broken and growing branches inside the crown;
- removal of branches growing below the grafting site;
- cutting one of the branches close together or rubbing against each other, and the weakest one is removed;
- removal of branches growing upwards (at an acute angle to the trunk).
In fast-growing species (poplars, ash-leaved maple, green ash, etc.) at a young age, it is recommended to remove 60-70% of the annual growth, and in slow-growing species (apple trees, lindens, elms, Norway maple, etc.) - 20-50%. This shortening contributes to the formation of strong shoots from the middle part of the crown. Fast-growing species (poplar, fluffy ash, etc.) are pruned annually. Slow-growing trees (maple, elm, linden, etc.) are pruned once every two or three years by shortening one-year growths.
Rejuvenating pruning is carried out in order to stimulate the vital activity of plants by pruning on 2-4-year-old wood. Such rejuvenation of plants is carried out only in trees that have stopped growing, and only in those that tolerate pruning well (willow, poplar, almond, hawthorn). The rejuvenation process is carried out gradually over 2-3 years so that new shoots can form a natural crown shape. Trees subjected to anti-aging pruning require careful care.
Shrub pruning
Shrubs differ in their biological characteristics. Some bloom on last year's shoots, others on current year's shoots. All have a different growth rate and shoot-forming ability. As a result, they require different pruning.
Beautifully flowering shrubs are grown for their magnificent flowers, so the main goal of pruning them is to achieve abundant flowering. According to the features of pruning, flowering shrubs should be divided into three groups.
The first group includes shrubs that do not form powerful replacement shoots from the base or lower part of the crown. Annual growths in these shrubs appear along the perimeter of the crown. Of the most common plants in garden plots, such shrubs include: common viburnum, cotoneaster, skumpia, shadberry, magnolia (star-shaped and Sulange), Japanese quince (henomeles). They need minimal pruning. In the first years after planting, it is very important to form the skeleton of the plant from strong branches. To do this, in early spring (during the dormant period), all weak, intersecting and incorrectly located shoots are removed. Pruning of adult bushes can be limited to the removal of shrunken, damaged and diseased branches. If necessary, some living shoots are also removed or cut in order to maintain the symmetry of the branches and the desired decorative appearance of the bushes.
The second group includes shrubs that bloom on the last year's shoots. These include: broom, action, forsythia, kerria, blood-red currant, ashen spirea, Tunber spirea, Vangutta spirea, Nippon spirea, sharp-toothed spirea, honeysuckle, stefanander, weigela, forsythia, tamarix, lilac. They usually bloom in spring or early summer. Planted plants are not pruned much - they are limited to removing weak and damaged branches. Immediately after flowering, faded branches are pruned, leaving a strong developing growth, and thin and weak growths are removed. And in subsequent years, pruning of shrubs of this group should be carried out immediately after flowering. Cut off faded branches, leaving the best lower young growths and at the same time forming a beautiful crown of the bush. You should also regularly cut to the base a quarter of the old branches that have become unproductive - this will ensure the emergence of young powerful shoots from the base of the bush.
However, there are some nuances. In Japanese kerria, faded branches should be cut to the base or into strong young shoots. Garden hydrangea (especially at a young age), on the contrary, is cut off purely “cosmetically” - only weak and damaged shoots are removed. And in adult hydrangeas, only a part of the old stems is removed to stimulate the annual formation of strong replacement shoots.
The third group includes shrubs that bloom on the shoots of the current year: David's buddleia, ceanothus, tree and panicle hydrangea, privet, snowberry, fieldfare, three-lobed almond, Japanese spirea, Bumald's spirea, willow spirea and Douglas' spirea. In early spring, mature shrubs of this group are pruned heavily so that they have powerful shoots - then they will bloom profusely in summer or early autumn. Weak growth is cut out and last year's growth is shortened by ½, and for strong growth by 2/3. Without pruning, the quality of flowering of adult shrubs of the third group gradually decreases. In the first year after planting, young seedlings of these shrubs are not pruned as much as in subsequent years (to ensure the normal development of their still weak root system). In the future, they are heavily pruned annually in early spring. At the same time, all last year's growths of shoots are cut to well-developed buds above the older part of the stem. If after a few years the main lignified branches thicken, they are thinned out, maintaining the decorative effect of the bush.
To ornamental deciduous shrubs include species and forms with original foliage: the white-edged form of white turf, the golden form of black elderberry and Bumald's spirea, Thunberg's barberry, red-leaved forms of hazel, barberry, skumpia, vesicle. This also includes species with beautiful annual shoots: varieties of white derain, willow, raspberry. They must be pruned annually in early spring, and pruned quite strongly (shorten last year's growth to 3-5 cm) in order to cause active growth of young shoots and their leaves have reached the maximum decorative effect.
Shrubs prone to crown thickening (mock orange) should not be shortened, but thinned out every three years.
Evergreen rhododendrons do not cut, but carefully twist the flowers without damaging the growth buds under them. Frozen branches are cut out at the end of spring, when the buds are already swollen.
Shearing lavender and heather is aimed at maintaining a compact form of the bush, so it should be regular.
Before the dissolution of the kidneys, shelters are removed: first, they raise the shelter, increasing ventilation, but leaving partial shading, and after 10 days they remove it completely; rake insulating mulch to thaw the soil.
At the first opportunity, it is necessary to loosen the topsoil to a depth of 4-5 cm to maintain moisture reserves at a distance of: 0.5 m from the trunk of trees up to 5 years old and shrubs; 1.0 m from the trunk of trees 5-15 years old; 1.5 m from the trunk of trees for more than 15 years.
When the kidneys swell, the damage is treated - the wounds are cleaned and disinfected with a 5% solution of copper sulphate.
Immediately after the snow melts, nitrogen fertilizers are applied at the rate of 10 g of urea per 1 m 2.
Plantings are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (1%) or copper oxychloride (0.3-0.4%) against pathogens.
With bud break, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing frozen branches - they are easy to distinguish by unblown or shrunken leaves at the beginning of blooming.
When buds appear, plantings can be treated again with a 0.3-0.4% solution of copper oxychloride in combination with a 0.1% solution of actellik, kinmiks, decis or others against diseases and pests (it is impossible if the fruits will be used for food) and carry out deep loosening, followed by mulching with peat, humus or crushed wood chips.
If the weather is dry, it is necessary to water the plants. On average, the following irrigation rates are used (l):
Shrub seedlings……….10 - 20;
Tree seedlings…………..40 – 50;
Large trees……100 – 150;
Big trees……………..200 – 250.
Simultaneously with irrigation, 0.001 - 0.003% heteroauxin solution can be added to stimulate root formation. The stimulator solution is usually applied to the wells immediately after watering evenly over the entire near-trunk area.
Top dressing for tree plantations is just as important as for flower beds. They are necessary for the good development of the crown, large foliage, abundant flowering. Especially hedges subjected to regular shearing can suffer from a lack of nutrients.
On young plantings, foliar top dressing is useful, which is done by spraying plants with solutions of urea mineral fertilizers (0.1%); ammonium nitrate (0.2%), superphosphate (0.5-1.0%), potassium chloride (0.5%). Foliar top dressing is combined with treatment with insecticide solutions. To process in the morning and evening hours or cloudy days without rain. It is impossible to carry out processing at a strong wind, before and right after a rain. To ensure the effectiveness of top dressing in dry soil, the plants must be watered before processing.
If the trunk circles are not mulched, then a third cultivation is carried out during flowering in order to improve the respiration of the roots and destroy weeds.
Summer
After flowering, early-flowering shrubs are pruned. On all breeds, shoots are removed, tops are broken out. They cut hedges and borders to give them a given decorative shape. At the same time, in hedges and borders, up to 1/2 of the growth of shoots is cut off. During the season, 3-6 cuttings of hedges are carried out, depending on the growth rate of plants. To fix hedges that are bare from below, you can cut off the entire above-ground part and leave stumps 5-10 cm high.
If you grow varieties with variegated foliage, then dechimerization is possible - the appearance of green branches. They have a faster growth rate, and you will not notice how the whole plant "repaints" in its normal color. Therefore, green shoots are immediately cut out.
Many garden plants are grown as grafted, which means that coppice shoots need to be cut in time (come from the rootstock).
In dry weather, 6-8 waterings are carried out. The first watering is combined with liquid mineral fertilizing with mineral fertilizers in the following composition per 10 liters of solution: urea - 30 g, superphosphate 20 g, potassium salt - 10 g. 0.001 - 0.003% heteroauxin can be added to this solution. Watered at the rate of 30 liters for trees 10-20 years old, 50 liters for trees over 20 years old, 10-15 liters for shrubs. Optimum watering is ensured by a capillary irrigation system, which is one of the elements of an automatic irrigation system.
Watering is completed in mid-August with water-charging irrigation - 70-80 l / m2 for shrubs and 100-150 l / m2 for trees. After each watering, in the absence of mulch, the trunk circles loosen.
During the summer, 5-6 washes of the crowns of deciduous shrubs and trees and 8-10 of conifers are carried out. Washing of crowns is carried out to remove dust and insects from leaves. When washing the crowns, photosynthesis, metabolism and heat transfer are improved. Washing is carried out in the early morning hours or in the evening until the leaves, branches and trunk are completely wetted. Water consumption per tree depends on its age. So, for a tree 8-11 years old, 15-20 liters of water are needed, 12-20 years old - 20-30, 21-30 years old - 40-50, 30 years and older - up to 100 liters.
In July, 30 g/m2 of potassium salt is added to increase frost resistance and enhance the laying of flower buds.
Autumn
In September, once every four years, the main fertilizer is applied in doses (per copy):
- shrubs - superphosphate 60g, potassium salt 30g, manure 5kg;
- trees up to 5 years - superphosphate 120g, potassium salt 60g, manure 10kg;
- trees 5-10 years old - superphosphate 240g, potassium salt 120g, manure 20kg;
- trees 10-15 years old - superphosphate 480g, potassium salt 240g, manure 40kg;
- trees older than 15 years - superphosphate 1000g, potassium salt 480g, manure 80kg;
On fertile soils, doses should be reduced by 1.5-2 times.
After uniform distribution of fertilizers over the soil surface, they are planted to a depth of 14-18 cm.
When leaf fall occurs, especially if your site suffers from any pests and diseases, it is better to rake the falling leaves and destroy them, as it serves as an excellent wintering ground for insects and spores of phytopathogens.
In heat-loving crops, trunk circles are mulched. After leaf fall, they are sheltered for the winter (using boxes, frames, covering materials).
They tie the stems of trees from damage by rodents with spruce branches, roofing felt, roofing material, fiberglass, metal mesh, and other material to a height of at least 70-80 cm - not lower than the snow cover. Any shelter is sprinkled with earth so that the mice cannot get up from below.
Winter
In winter, it is necessary to periodically shake off snow from plantations, especially hedges. Otherwise, piles of snow will cause breakage of branches, walks will appear in hedges, and tree crowns will become asymmetrical and you will have to start their formation again.
Creepers, with the exception of climbing roses, are less whimsical to care for. Roses and clematis need a garter to the support, the rest of the climbing plants do an excellent job on their own. The main thing is to limit their growth in the space allocated for them.
Plants need care not only in the summer season, but also in the winter months, therefore, by summarizing information about the content of various horticultural crops, you can draw up a so-called tree and shrub care calendar.
The timing of the work depends on the soil-climatic conditions of the area, the biological characteristics of the cultivated crops and the timing of the development of plants. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the weather conditions of the current year. The proposed recommendations are designed mainly for the climatic conditions of the middle zone. Based on this, each gardener should use the recommendations, taking into account the specific conditions of the terrain, weather and deviations in air temperature from long-term average data.
January
The main concern in January is to protect trees and shrubs from frost damage. In the absence of snow, the roots may freeze if the soil temperature at a depth of 20 cm drops to -12-18°C. The best protection for roots and stems is snow. If there is not enough snow, then it is collected from the paths and from the ditches. To accumulate snow on the site, branches and brushwood are scattered in advance. If frosts are expected below -30 ° C, then boles and bases of skeletal branches are spudded with snow. After heavy snowfalls, the branches of trees and shrubs can break off under the weight of snow, so the snow is gently shaken off, and during thaws it is removed with a long pole wrapped in burlap or foam rubber at the end.
In winter, the enemies of young trees and shrubs are rodents that eat the bark of boles and skeletal branches. It is not too late to protect the trees even in January (if there was no time to take appropriate measures in the fall). It is necessary to tightly trample the snow around the stem, tie the trunk with spruce branches or wormwood (you can also use roofing material, roofing felt, metal mesh, plastic wrap).
In early January, Schisandra chinensis seeds are soaked in water for five days, changing the water daily. After this period, the seeds are sown in boxes with a soil mixture.
February
February is dangerous for overwintering trees with sharp temperature changes, so you need to constantly ensure that the stems and bases of skeletal branches are under snow cover.
Mice and hares become more active in February. Through high snowdrifts, it is easier for hares to reach young branches that are difficult to protect. At this time, various repellents are used, for example, branches are sprayed with a solution of tar or creolin (2 tablespoons per bucket of water).
March
In the first half of March, the snow begins to melt, so we must strive to keep the melt water on the site. Under the rays of the sun, the snow quickly settles, freeing the trunks of trees, which must be inspected for damage by rodents.
If there are only focal and superficial lesions on the cortex and the wounds heal quickly, they may not even be treated. If a significant part of the bark is damaged, the wound is coated with garden pitch.
March is dangerous for trees and shrubs with sunburns on boles and in the forks of skeletal branches. The appearance of burns is explained by the strong heating of the bark on sunny days and the subsequent sharp change in air temperature at night, to prevent this phenomenon, sun-protection whitewashing is carried out.
On warm March days, they usually start pruning trees and shrubs. Start with older plants. After pruning, early spring spraying of shrubs with a 3-4% solution of nitrafen (300-400 g per 10 liters of water) is carried out to destroy the wintering stages of pests. Also in March, they prepare for the arrival of birds - garden orderlies: they clean and repair old bird houses, hang new ones.
In March, boxes with actinidia seeds sown in autumn are transferred from the basement to a bright room with an air temperature of 15-18 C. Usually shoots appear after 15-25 days.
April
Continue pruning until bud break. Begin planting trees and shrubs. First of all, winter vaccinations stored in a cold place are planted.
After the snow melts, the near-trunk areas are freed from insulating material, all last year's leaves and other plant debris are collected and used for compost.
In early May, all planting work should be completed. Plants planted in autumn are carefully examined: if they are deeply buried or planted too shallow, they are transplanted again, watered and mulched.
Continue sowing seeds that have undergone stratification. Follow the emergence of shoots. In May, fruit crops are grafted with cuttings.
In May, the rapid growth of leaves and shoots begins. But if the previous winter caused the trees to freeze, as a rule, their vegetation is delayed. In this case, tree pruning is carried out in May (and not in April).
June
June is the month of intensive growth of shoots and ovaries. It is at this time that both young and adult plants need to be provided with nutrition and moisture as best as possible. The soil is fertilized and maintained in a loose state. In trees with strong freezing of the above-ground part, strong growth of root shoots begins in June. If it is not removed in a timely and correct manner, over time it can overtake the tree itself in growth and even destroy it.
Immediately after flowering, spraying from pests is carried out. In early June, on some shrubs, especially in rainy and cool weather, a dangerous disease may appear - powdery mildew. The first sign of it is the formation of a thin silvery-white coating on the underside of young leaves. With a strong defeat, the bushes can even die. The fight against powdery mildew is effective only at the very beginning of the disease, so in June it is necessary to inspect the shrubs more often in order not to miss the first signs of the disease and spray the plants in time.
July
During the period of mass formation of roots in green cuttings, plantings are fertilized with fertilizers. The soil is loosened, mulched, freed from weeds, make sure that it does not dry out.
Green manure (mustard, phacelia, peas, vetch) is sown in the unoccupied aisles of the garden to enrich the soil with organic substances. They are especially useful in waterlogged areas, as they dry them out and stop the growth of trees, which helps to better prepare them for winter.
At the end of July, seeds of some plants (for example, shadberry) are harvested. In July, the fruits of many trees and shrubs are harvested.
August
The main agrotechnical task of this month is to create the necessary conditions for preparing trees and shrubs for winter. If too much organic and mineral fertilizer has been applied, shoot growth is still
may continue.
Sometimes rainy weather in August causes secondary growth of shoots, to stop this undesirable phenomenon, it is necessary to remove the mulch, and pinch the tops of strongly growing shoots in young plants.
By August, hopeless, dead trees and shrubs are clearly defined, which must be removed from the site.
September
The main work of this month is related to harvesting and preparing plants for winter. Also in September, sanitary pruning of trees is carried out, cutting out all dried and diseased branches into a ring, which are clearly visible against the background of leaves that have not yet fallen.
At the end of September, they dig up the soil in the near-stem areas, water it and fertilize it. If autumn planting of seedlings is planned, then in September planting pits are prepared and filled with fertilizers.
October
At the end of the month, seedlings are dug in for the winter. To do this, they dig a trench 40-50 cm deep, the southern side of which is made inclined, seedlings are placed on it in one row at an angle of 45. The roots are buried to the level of the root collar and watered. The buried plants are covered with spruce branches.
So that the branches of young trees do not break under the weight of snow, they are lifted and the ends are tied to the central conductor. To protect against sunburn, stems and forks of skeletal branches are coated with freshly slaked lime or chalk with the addition of copper sulfate, previously dissolved in hot water (0.4 kg), and carpentry glue (0.1 kg).
In trees on dwarf rootstocks, as well as those growing on hills and sandy soils, the root system may freeze slightly in the absence of snow. It is especially important for them that the soil is loose, so it freezes less. A good protection for the roots will be covering them with humus, foliage, peat.
November
In November, to prevent the washout of the upper fertile soil layer, furrows are made across the existing slope on the site.
On wind-blown areas, shields and other improvised means for snow retention are placed.
Before the onset of severe frosts, cuttings are prepared for winter and spring vaccination. By mid-November, the main garden work is completed.
If the soil was not dug up in October, it is better to do it now - in good weather. Before the snow falls, they finish whitewashing the stems and bases of the skeletal branches. Young trees are tied up for the winter. The soil near the shrubs is mulched with peat.
December
The first month of winter is characterized by particularly unstable weather - frosts are often replaced by deep thaws. Snow falls, then completely melts, after which a sharp cooling often occurs. In order to prevent complete melting of snow, one must strive to accumulate it on the site. When snow falls, bushes spud them, rake it under the trees.
If the cuttings were not planted in the fall, then in early December, before the onset of severe frosts, they are cut off and stored for storage. In this case, planting is carried out in early spring.
Post-plant care for trees and shrubs is a system of measures aimed at restoring the vital functions of plants after transplantation and accelerating the process of adaptation to adverse environmental conditions.
Woody plants transplanted from nurseries into urban urban environments find themselves in extremely unfavorable habitat conditions. They are affected by a wide variety of environmental factors - insufficient or excessive lighting due to shading by buildings or, conversely, being in an open area, local winds or drafts, elevated air temperature as a result of heating asphalt and building walls, air pollution, soil compaction and soil increase. temperature, lowering air humidity, especially in city streets and squares.
Measures for post-planting care should primarily be aimed at restoring the plant organism and eliminating the adverse effects of the external environment. First year after planting
plants is critical, since the root system is severely injured, its active suction part is partially destroyed. Therefore, the main attention should be paid to caring for the plant's root system and assisting in the restoration of physiologically active roots.
When planting in spring, plants need constant and systematic watering. Assistance in the restoration of the roots is achieved by introducing into the zone of root systems simultaneously with watering growth stimulants. As mentioned above, an effective growth stimulator is potassium salt and heteroauxin, which is commercially available in tablets, each containing 100 mg of active ingredient. The norms for applying heteroauxin when caring for trees and shrubs, l/bush (tree):
for standard shrub seedlings 5(0.002%)
for seedling trees 10(0.002%)
for trees with a clod 0.8x0.8x0.5 m 30(0.003%)
for trees with a clod 1.3x1.3X0.65 m 50(0.003%)
Stimulant solutions are applied simultaneously with watering or immediately after watering. The introduction of solutions is carried out evenly over the entire surface of the seat with the calculation of saturation of the root-inhabited soil layer to the entire depth.
After planting, timely irrigation and moistening of root systems is of great importance. During the season, the plants must be watered at least 7-10 times, depending on the weather. Before watering, the rollers of the holes are straightened, the mulch is raked to the sides. Watering is carried out from the hose of a watering machine, completely filling the hole with water. After absorption
water, the surface of the seat is trimmed, the rollers are straightened, mulching materials are added to protect the surface from drying out. It is especially important to irrigate during active growth of shoots and an increase in the area of the photosynthetic apparatus, as well as neoplasms of physiologically active roots (Table 14).
If the autumn is dry, then watering the plants planted in the spring should be continued to provide the plants with moisture and thereby protect them from winter desiccation. Soil moisture in the zones of plant root systems should be maintained within 60-70% of the total field capacity. The need for watering can be determined by taking soil samples from a depth of 20-30 cm for trees, 15-20 cm for shrubs. Excessive watering is undesirable; water moves easily soluble nutrients to a depth inaccessible to the roots, displaces air from the soil, impairs the respiration of the roots. Plants with roots damaged during transplantation and plants transplanted in the spring-summer period with blossoming leaves should be watered more often and more abundantly. The best watering time is morning, evening or night; the most favorable water temperature is 15-25 °C. Warm water dissolves minerals faster and is more intensively absorbed by the roots. Watering transplanted plants with too cold water reduces the soil temperature, weakens the vital activity of microorganisms and damages the suction roots. In rainy weather, plants should be watered less often; heavy rains during the dry period practically do not reduce the moisture needs of plants. In dry and hot weather, along with watering, irrigation of the aerial parts of plants should be carried out, which helps to clean the leaves from pollution and increase the intensity of photosynthesis. Such irrigation is recommended to be carried out early in the morning or in the evening from hoses with water-spraying nozzles at a water consumption rate of 2 l / m2 of the crown surface. Conifers are irrigated in the spring, the next year after planting, to wash away the settled pollution; a soap solution of OP-7 or OP-10 is added to the water at a concentration of 0.2-0.3%.
Table 14. Standards for irrigation of trees and shrubs
| Forest zone | Trees and shrubs | Wetting depth, cm | Irrigation radius from the trunk, SS, up to | Single watering rate, l / m 2 | Irrigation frequency per season | |
| Light soils | heavy soils | |||||
| Lesnaya | Thuja western, prickly spruce | 40-50 | 2-3 | |||
| Siberian larch, fluffy ash | 40-50 | 2-3 | ||||
| Scotch pine, warty birch, Norway maple, common elm, small-leaved linden | 40-50 | 2-3 | ||||
| steppe | Thuja western, prickly spruce | 60-80 | 3-5 | |||
| Crimean pine, field maple, small-leaved linden, silver and spherical maple | To the depth of the root system | 3-5 | ||||
| Norway maple, warty birch | Same | 3-5 | ||||
| Forest and steppe | horse chestnut | » | 3-5 | |||
| shrubs | » | - | - | 20-25 | 3-4 |
In the second year after planting, it is useful to combine sprinkling with foliar mineral dressings. As drugs use: 0.1% solution of urea (1 g per 1 liter of water) or 0.2% solution of ammonium nitrate; 0.5% superphosphate solution, 0.4% potassium chloride solution. Top dressing enhances metabolism, increases the intensity of growth processes, provides an influx of nutrients to the axial organs. Top dressing of young seedlings together with sprinkling is carried out in two stages. The first coincides with the initial phases of growth and development, the second with the phase of the complete development of the leaf apparatus. At the first stage, fertilizers containing nitrogen are applicable, at the second - phosphorus and potassium. Working solutions of nitrogen and potassium fertilizers are prepared on the day of application in tap water, superphosphate is dissolved and infused for a day.
Weeding and loosening the surface around planted plants are important measures after planting care. Loosening helps to interrupt the rise of water through the capillaries of the soil from the root layer. At the same time, loosening achieves air and water permeability of the soil surface, destroys weeds that deprive trees and shrubs of nutrition and moisture.
The surface soils around the planted plants are loosened to a depth of 5-6 cm no more, so as not to damage the surface thin roots. The first loosening is carried out in the spring, as soon as the soil dries. Further loosening should be carried out as needed, especially after rains and watering. During the growing season, young plantings should be loosened according to the number of irrigations, i.e. 7-10 times. When loosening, weeds should be selected and clods should be finely broken. Loosening is carried out with a garden shovel, placing it parallel to the radius of the near-stem circle. Loosening is carried out on the area of the seat: for a seedling - on an area with a diameter of 1 m, for a hedge - along a strip with a width of at least 0.4 m.
Holes of trees growing among the asphalt on the sidewalks must be loosened 8-12 times a season, periodically adding a plant-nutrient mixture; with constant mulching, the need for loosening usually disappears.
Before winter, it is necessary to add peat or humus with a layer of 6-8 cm to the near-stem holes. This measure protects the roots weakened by transplantation from exposure to low temperatures and protects the plants from freezing.
During the entire period of plant survival, they should be constantly monitored. It is necessary to check the fastening of plants to supports,
loose bandages should be tightened, broken off replaced with new ones. Bent fastening stakes are straightened, and broken ones are replaced with new ones. In the third year after the plants take root, the fixing stakes and fixtures are removed and removed.
The period of survival of plants, the restoration of their vital activity after transplantation for different types of plants may be different. Shrub seedlings take root most quickly: within one to two years; tree seedlings take root within two to three years. In large-sized trees, the survival period is extended to four to five years.
Post-planting care should be aimed at reducing the survival time of plants. The survival criterion is the formation of stable shoots of plants, the growth of the leaf surface, its juicy green color, the timely entry of the plant organism into a dormant period, the intensive growth of shoots for the next year, and the maturation of their wood in autumn.
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