How to crash into a sewer pipe. How to crash into a sewer pipe and what is needed for this? Insertion into a vertical riser

A tie-in to a sewer pipe can be needed for many reasons. This could be installing a dishwasher, adding an extra sink, or installing a bidet. For all of the above elements, a sewer system tie-in is required.

There are many ways to tie into sewer pipes, as well as a sufficient number of transitional connections to connect to the sewer system. Below will be described how to crash into the sewer and do it right without resorting to the services of plumbers.

Tapping with a tee

Before carrying out work on inserting into a sewer pipe, you should prepare a file, a hacksaw and a plastic tee, the diameter of which matches the diameter of the pipeline, silicone sealant and a plug for the tee. It is also necessary to add an expansion pipe to the design.

Basically, if you want to connect pipelines with the same diameter, then in this case a tie-in with a tee may be suitable.

It is required to cut a piece of pipe so that the size matches the tee.
With the help of a file, burrs are removed from the inside and outside.
Silicone sealant is applied, which smears the gaps from the outside.
A part of the pipe is inserted through the pipe, which will allow you to connect the tee.

Do not forget about rubber seals, because without them there will not be sufficient density in the connection and water may leak.

When it is calculated to embed a pipeline of the same diameter of 110 mm, then in this case everything is a little more complicated. The connection is as follows.

A piece is removed in the riser and two fittings are required to be inserted instead - a tee and a compensator.

A tee (when two pipelines are connected, you should take a cross adapter) is needed for connection. The required diameter and comparable size of the branches should be selected.

The compensator looks like a small pipe with a transitional diameter. With a larger diameter part, it is put on from below - up to the riser. With it, you can dock the riser again. In advance of the installation of a tee with a compensator, everything should be accurately calculated.

The most important thing is to find the height of the position of the tee, since after installation, its outlet must provide the required slope for the connected pipeline. The length of the riser should be taken into account, which will be included in the lower socket of the tee.

Thus, there is a point at which the riser will be filed.

It is best to choose a tee with an angled pipe outlet so that the oblique angle has a direction of movement towards the drain. This reduces the possibility of clogging.

Insertion using an adapter

There are cases in which it is not desirable to disassemble and cut the sewer water supply, however, one more sewer outlet is still necessary. In this case, it is supposed to use a special adapter. This is a device that is installed in a hole and has the diameter of the connected pipeline.

Tapping through a fitting begins with drilling a hole for it. The adapter itself looks like a cap, which has a branch for connecting a pipe. A similar kit can be bought on the market or in a specialized store.

In this option, you will need a drill with a crown, as well as a file, so that you can clean the edges for a good fit with the adapter.

However, do not forget that with the help of an adapter it is possible to connect a pipeline, which has a diameter two times smaller than on an embedded one. It is also important to take into account the fact that for horizontally located pipelines, it should be connected either from above, or with a slope of no more than 45 degrees from the vertical.

The added pipe should not interfere with other drains. Using a flange, you can pull the elements together quite tightly and if everything is done correctly, then this will be a fairly reliable method of connection.

When the sewer system does not have a large pressure, then you can do without the use of a clamp, but only with an insulating tape.

You can crash into the sewer using the adapter using the steps described below:

In the radius of the cutout, the surface is dried and cleaned to the width of the adapter.
Holes are drilled along the diameter for connecting the fitting. Drilling is best done with a core drill.
Next, the fitting is coated with sealant and attached to the pipe using clamps. Don't overtighten them as this can damage the plastic.
The pipeline to be connected is placed in the outlet branch pipe of the fitting, through the cuff - adapter.

It is worth knowing that the clamps are tightened before the sealant seeps out of the joints. After that, wipe the entire surface.

Flanges for docking will be a very convenient means for connecting pipes, as they allow you to create tightness and give strength to the connection.

In general, crashing into a plastic sewer pipe is not so difficult, but it requires some training and skills in handling the tool. If there is no self-confidence or there is a limited amount of time, then you can use the services of a plumber.

How to crash into a plastic sewer pipe

Sometimes a situation arises when an additional tie-in to the sewer pipe is needed. If you have minimal plumbing skills, you can do it yourself. Consider how to crash into a sewer pipe (including a riser) in simple ways.

Reasons for tapping into the sewer system

A tie-in to a sewer pipe may be required for several reasons.

A tie-in to a sewer pipe may be required for several reasons:

Connecting a plumbing fixture (washing machine, sink, washbasin, etc.) to the existing sewer system of an apartment or house. In this case, the connection to the riser or pipe is carried out through a branch pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
When remodeling in an apartment or adding a second floor to a house, it may be necessary to connect a toilet in a new location. It is carried out through a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm into the riser;
Insertion of the sewage system of a built house into the central sewerage system. The tie-in diameter in this case can be either 50 or 110 mm.

Connection Features

In the first case (see above), there is a connection to the internal sewer system. Restriction of discharge of drains for the period of performance of installation works does not cause difficulties.

In the second case, it is worth negotiating with neighbors who have a joint riser with you to limit the use of the sewer system at an agreed time.

In the third - you need to negotiate with utilities to stop the water supply at a set time. Utilities reserves the right to issue you an invoice in case of requests by residents to recalculate utility bills.

After tapping, the new inlet is plugged before being connected to it.

It is almost impossible to correctly calculate and install the required number of tees in the sewer pipe at the construction stage. In the process of putting the premises into operation, residents will certainly need to install additional devices that require connection to the sewerage system.

Insertion into a metal riser

In this article, we will consider the basic principles that guide the work on tie-in into a sewer pipe. Let's talk about the necessary tools and materials that may come in handy.

When is a sewer connection necessary?

There are many situations in which a tie-in into a sewer pipe is the only correct solution. The most common are the connection of new plumbing equipment or the transfer of old to another place, the installation of washing machines, automatic sinks and other electrical equipment with automatic draining. A tie-in may also be required when connecting a private system to a central sewer. In this case, the work must be coordinated and carried out by employees of the public utility. Otherwise, the connection will be considered illegal and punishable.

In some situations, an alternative to tie-in to the sewer can be the installation of a splitter that adds connection points to the sewer.

Types of sewer pipes

For the construction of sewer lines, PVC pipe systems are mainly used. A plastic pipe is more practical, has a longer service life and is much cheaper than metal counterparts.

PVC drain 110 mm

Additionally, PVC systems can be upgraded at any time, because manufacturers offer a large selection of tees, branch adapters and fittings, with which you can cut into a sewer drain pipe at any stage of construction or after the premises are put into operation.

In old houses that were built during the time of the union, cast-iron drains were used as sewers.

Cast iron sewer system

Currently, they are rare, because. most homeowners and utilities have already replaced them with plastic. Where cast iron is still left, it will take more time to tie in, because. you will have to use complex tools, up to a gas cutter.

In some cases, metal and metal galvanized pipes are used for sewage. Like the previous option, they are less practical than their plastic counterparts, and for self-insertion into them, you will need to have the skills of a welder.

Tools required for work

An insert into a plastic sewer pipe is carried out using an additional tool. For those who plan to carry out the work on their own, you will need to have:

Electric drill or screwdriver. For drilling a hole in a plastic pipe.
A set of crowns for plastic or wood.
Bulgarian with a hard-alloy disk.
Stationery knife, for cleaning edges.
Sealant gun.
A hacksaw, jigsaw or other similar tool with which you can cut a plastic pipe.
Welding machine (when working with metal pipes).
Gas cutter (when working with cast iron pipes).

And of course, you will need a hammer, tape measure, pencil and other small tools that every self-respecting owner should have.

General principles of insertion into the sewer drain

An insert into a sewer pipe, no matter what type it is, is done in compliance with the basic principles of installation. The main rule is that the connection must be completely sealed. Otherwise, smudges or the penetration of an unpleasant odor may occur at the installation site of the tie-in, which is quite unpleasant.

Important! To seal additional tees or tie-ins, we recommend using raw rubber or silicone plumbing sealants.

The connected pipe should not go deeper into the main line by more than 0.5 mm. Otherwise, the risk of blockage at the installation site of the tie-in increases. This is the second rule to follow.

The next important point is related to the level of the connected drain. For proper functioning, the connected structure must be slightly higher than the main drain (for horizontal versions). The insert into it is carried out in the upper part.

In vertical systems, the side from which additional equipment is connected does not matter; in this case, the principle "as convenient" is followed.

Fittings for PVC sewer systems

For tie-in to the sewer system, it is convenient to use special fittings. For convenience, we divide these devices into several types.

Splitters

Designed for connection to the sewer system, they have several outlets of the same or different diameters for connecting drain pipes.

Splitter 110 mm

Splitters do not require additional waterproofing, because. they have a rubber or silicone seal. To install such a fitting, it is required to completely cut the main pipe, which in some cases is impossible. This type includes tees and crosses with different connection angles.

Sidebars

For connection to a non-pressure sewer system, you can use "tie-ins". This is a device that is installed in a pre-prepared hole of a certain diameter and does not require a complete cutting of the pipe. 110/50 tie-ins are widely used, which are used to connect a sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm to a 110 mm system. The device does not require additional waterproofing, because. has a rubber seal, which, when properly installed, securely seals the connection.

Mortise 110/50 with key

Included with the factory PVC "tie-in" should be a wrench that is used to tighten the part during installation. Without such a key, it will not be possible to correctly install the "insert".

Saddles

The device works on the principle of a clamp, it is installed on top of the main pipe and clamped with a bolted connection.

Saddle tie-in

Can be used for both PVC and metal systems. For installation, it is not necessary to make a cut in the main pipe, it is enough to prepare a hole, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the connected pipeline.

Couplings

A fitting of this type is designed to connect the main pipe to an embedded tee or cross. It is mainly used for systems in which it is not possible to push the main pipe apart at the cut point. Couplings are produced in two types, compensating and slip-on. It is convenient to use both options depending on the situation. Additional waterproofing is not required, because. have a standard o-ring seal.

Sliding coupling

Mortise in horizontal system 110/50

This type of insert can be made in several ways. Depending on the situation, you can use any of the options described below, because. They are all field tested and guaranteed to work.

With factory cut

It is convenient to connect a drain with a diameter of 50 mm to a pipe of 110 mm using the factory "tie-in" 110/50. To do this, according to the manufacturer's instructions, a hole with a diameter of 57 mm will need to be drilled at the connection point. You can make a hole with a drill and a core drill. Next, the "tie-in" is installed in the mounting hole and tightened using the wrench supplied with the fitting.

With the help of a double

The second option, in which you can do without a special mortise fitting, is to use a regular 110/50 double at 90 degrees, which is pre-cut lengthwise.

Correct fitting cut

It is necessary to prepare a hole in the main drain, where it is planned to connect an additional pipe. The diameter of the hole must be at least 50 mm and not more than 60. The shape of the hole should not be perfectly round, therefore, with this method, a grinder can be used to make it. The cut off part of the fitting is installed on the main pipe with an overlap and fixed with ordinary plumbing clamps. Raw rubber or sealant can be used as an insulator. This method is convenient because it does not require a complete cutting of the main pipe.

With splitter and connecting fitting

In the case when it is necessary to cut a pipe of equal diameter into the main drain, the two previous methods are not suitable. A splitter is required.

Splitter with expansion pipe

This method of inserting into a plastic pipe allows you to mount a splitter in a partially underground pipeline. The diameter of the connecting outlets of the splitter must be equal to the diameter of the main pipe, this requirement must also be met for the connecting fitting.

All that needs to be done is to cut a section from the main pipe equal in total to the length of the splitters and half the length of the connecting fitting. Next, clean the edges, grease with soapy water and install the fittings. First of all, the connecting element is installed and shifted so that it is possible to install the splitter. Then a splitter is put on the main pipe and the previously installed fitting is shifted back, connecting everything into a single sealed system.

The main points of insertion into a vertical riser

The previously described methods of connecting to a plastic pipeline can also be used for vertical risers. It is important to understand that if the drain pipes can be slightly moved apart, then for tapping the splitter, it is not necessary to additionally install a connecting fitting. In rigid pipelines, a connecting element is required.

When working on a tie-in into a vertical riser, it is necessary to warn the neighbors in advance about the ongoing repairs and ask them not to use the sewer if possible. For insurance after cutting the riser on its top, it is better to secure a bucket into which the feces will merge, otherwise they may spill on you.

There are several ways to connect an additional pipeline to an existing sewer pipe. The choice of method depends on the specific circumstances of the connection.

Insertion into a horizontal sewer pipeline

The most common situation: it is necessary to connect an additional plumbing fixture to a plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm.

In this case, it is still more reasonable to disassemble the sewer pipe. And insert a tee at the connection point. Work is performed in the following sequence:

The result is a one-piece stationary pipeline with a connection for a new plumbing fixture.
The only thing is that it is recommended to select an oblique tee (with an acute angle - an angle in the direction of fluid movement), in order to reduce the likelihood of clogging.

But there are situations when it is impossible to disassemble the pipe or it is necessary to crash into a cast-iron pipe, which, by its appearance, seems to say that it is better not to touch it ...

Then the tie-in into the sewer pipe will help out by drilling a hole in it according to the diameter of the connected branch.
A fitting is used at the connection point, which is called an adapter. It is a cap with a branch for a connected pipe. Attracted at the connection point with clamps.
It is selected according to two parameters: - the diameter of the pipeline to which it is connected and the diameter of the connected pipe.

In general, a tie-in kit is not difficult to purchase in a store.

Tapping into the sewer pipeline using an adapter is carried out in the following order.

The pipe at the connection point is cleaned and dried to at least the width of the adapter.
A hole is drilled in the pipe according to the diameter of the connection. For example, for a 50 mm pipe, it can only be 22 mm and no more. For a 110 mm pipe, the maximum diameter of the connected pipe can be already 50 mm. A core drill is used for drilling.
The adapter is covered with sealant and fixed to the pipe with clamps. It is important not to damage the plastic pipe when tightening!
A rubber cuff-adapter and a connected pipeline are inserted into the outlet branch pipe of the adapter.

Connection to the sewer riser

Insertion into the sewer riser can also be done in different ways.
Usually the riser has a diameter of 110 mm (plastic pipes). If a smaller diameter pipe is connected, for example 50 or 40 mm, then the adapter already described can be used.

But you need to remember that if the riser is passing, i.e. Since there is a drain from the upper floors, it is undesirable for the protruding parts of the incoming pipe to be in the riser. Otherwise, this place will become a collection of debris falling from the top. Or even a blockage in the pipe, if a rag falls on top of the protruding pipe ...

Otherwise, the insert into the riser of a pipe 50 or 40 mm in diameter does not differ from the above technology using an adapter.
It is only important to determine the tie-in point so that the connected pipeline has the desired slope.

But if a pipeline of the same diameter (110mm) is supposed to be inserted, then the situation becomes complicated. But solvable. Then the connection to the riser is made in this way: a piece of the riser is cut out and two fittings are inserted in its place - a tee and a compensator.

A tee (if a pair of pipelines is connected, then a cross) is needed for connection. It is selected according to diameters - passing 110 mm and branch 110 mm? or 50 mm?.
Compensator. It looks like a piece of pipe with a transitional diameter. With a wide part, it is put on the riser from the bottom up. Then it goes down the riser and is inserted into the tee with a narrow part. Thus, it allows you to re-dock the riser together.

Precise calculations must be made before installing the tee and compensator.
The main thing is to determine the height of the tee. After installation, its outlet must be at a given height level to ensure the necessary slope of the pipeline connected to it. This takes into account the length of the riser, which will enter the lower socket of the tee.
This determines the lower mark along which the riser will be cut.

Then the top mark is determined. The cut length of the riser must be equal to (or slightly longer than) the length of the compensator so that it can be brought under the riser. The length of the compensator is added to the lower mark, and the upper mark is obtained.

Before starting work, do the following:

Prevent draining down the riser during repairs. This must be ensured by any means - by bypassing neighbors, if any, or by setting up armed posts ...
Prepare rags and water for cleaning.
Clean and dry the riser at the repair site.

Work on connecting to the sewer riser is performed in the following order:

That's actually all. It remains to fix the riser to the wall with clamps if its fastening has been destroyed.
But it is still not recommended to take on cutting out part of the riser, if you have not dealt with sewage and pipes before. It is better to entrust it to professionals.

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Method one. Right

Most often, a resident of a modern metropolis has to deal with a riser rather than a sewer pipe. Regardless of this, the planned tie-in to the riser or pipe requires certain points to be taken into account:

The material from which the riser or pipe is made.
Your location (floor) on the riser site.
Ease of access to the place where you will arrange your drainage system.

So, the material is defined: either metal or plastic. Location: if you live on the top floor, then there is no problem a priori. Otherwise, you will have to arrange a detour of the neighbors, begging them to stop using the benefits of civilization for a certain time, leaving notes at the door of those to whom you could not get through. By the way, this is one of the reasons to step on the throat of your own self-confidence by turning to professionals: any plumber of your management company or housing office will solve this problem quickly and efficiently, simply by shutting off the supply of hot and cold water through the riser. A couple of hours, and the neighbors are guaranteed to empty their drain tanks and other containers. Although there is always some particularly thrifty grandmother with a couple of buckets filled just in case.

In general, be prepared for the fact that you have to splash the contents of someone else's toilet. And if all that is needed is to install a drainage system for a washing machine, then maybe it makes no sense to touch the sewer? It is enough to purchase a new siphon for a sink or kitchen sink, with a fitting for draining water from washing machines or dishwashers.

In our case, ease of access refers to a list of preparatory measures or work that needs to be done before you proceed directly to the sewer tie-in operation itself. As well as the convenience of working directly at the point of insertion. Well, if everything will cost only by removing the toilet bowl or opening a section of the wall to access the riser.

Tools and materials

"Bulgarian" ordinary, with a cutting disc. Suitable for both cast iron and plastic pipes. Although, for example, a plastic pipe can also be sawn with a hacksaw, the place does not always allow this, for example, in technical wells where pipes are installed, there is always a shortage of space.
Chisel and hammer. This option is for professionals. With a chisel on a cast-iron pipe, notches are made along the “cut line”, and then a section of the pipe is knocked out with a couple of hammer blows. Edge irregularities are carefully removed with the same chisel. If you're not a plumber, don't do this. Cast iron is a rather brittle material. Put the chisel in the wrong place - and now the pipe is split lengthwise, and this is already serious.

File. Burrs will inevitably remain at the incision sites. If they are not eliminated, then during the operation the sewage system will surprise you: these sharp cilia love to “catch” various unappetizing things, which will inevitably lead to blockage. If you do not want to hear a lot of unique expressions from the called plumber, then carefully consider this task.
Tee. Naturally plastic. The shape (straight or oblique) is your choice. The size must be the same diameter as the pipe, or smaller, always with necks and sealing rings.
Compensation pipe (it is also a compensator, it is also an adapter). It is a segment of a pipe of varying diameter: one side is of the same diameter as the sewer pipe (inserted into the neck of the tee), the other is of a larger diameter (mounted on the pipe itself). Naturally, the best material for a beginner home plumber is plastic.
Cap for a tee. If the tie-in unit is not going to be used immediately, be sure to put a plug. Ambre from the sewer does not exactly ozonize the atmosphere.
Silicone based sealant. All elements of the tie-in must be sealed.

Procedure

So, the wife and children are sent to the mother-in-law (mother, brother, and so on), no one bothers over the ear and does not stand over the soul. In short, the family gave you carte blanche to organize the destruction in the bathroom and prudently retired to a safe distance. Tools are at hand, materials are prepared. Determination - more than enough!

It remains to decide what, in fact, should be done. And you just need to carefully cut a section of the pipe and pull the wide side of the compensator onto its upper part. On the lower part - install the tee and lower (siege) the compensator down so that its narrow lower part enters the upper neck of the tee.

Step by step it looks like this:

We mark the section of the pipe for the future tie-in.
"Bulgarian" cut out a piece of pipe.
We process the cut points with a file to eliminate burrs.
We apply sealant to the upper part of the pipe, at the very place of the cut.
We put the compensator with the wide part on the upper pipe, pushing it up to the stop, so that there is room for the installation of the tee.
We apply sealant to the bottom of the pipe, also at the cut point.
We install a tee on it.
We apply sealant to the narrow part of the compensator and move it down until it connects to the upper neck of the tee, also until it stops.
We install a plug on the tee and happily run to the neighbors with the news that they can again pour water as they please.

Attention: if at the place where the compensator crashed into you, there was once a riser mount, then you should purchase a similar one and fix the sewer pipe above the tie-in.

Otherwise, there is a danger that the pipe, especially cast iron, will sink under its own weight inside the wide part of the compensator and its neck will undock at the top. And the fecal water pouring from above past the pipe is extremely unpleasant, gentlemen!

Method two. Wrong

Yes, yes, sometimes you have to do the right thing, but in the wrong way. So, in the process of assessing the situation, you came to the conclusion that the installation of a compensator is impossible. Absolutely, absolutely and categorically. Only in this case is it permissible to crash using method No. 2. Its meaning lies in the fact that the sewer pipe is not completely cut, but its segment is cut out. As a result, a sort of “window” is obtained in the pipe body, on which a lining with fixing elements of the “clamp” type is installed. These pads are commercially available, complete with gaskets and fasteners.

The sequence of actions for the tie-in will be as follows:

Buy a lining according to the diameter of the sewer pipe
Mark the area and carefully cut out the "window"
Finish the edges of the cut with a file
Apply sealant near the edges of the cut, install a drain pad
Secure the whole structure with clamps

And remember: this method is really, as they say, "emergency". The fact is that the cut walls of the pipe will turn into ledges, for which sewage can cling. Therefore, be prepared for periodic visits by a plumber.

1pokanalizacii.ru

If you need to tie in a pipeline whose diameter matches the diameter of the pipeline, then you will need a tie-in using a tee. In order to make a tie-in using a tee, you need to cut the pipeline, cut a piece out of it with maximum accuracy, into which the compensating pipe and tee will be installed. After you install the tee, it will be necessary to weld the pipeline. The disadvantage of this method is that in plastic pipes it is necessary to connect them using sockets, and it is necessary to cut two systems in order to insert a segment, which is equipped with an expansion pipe and a tee.

It is also important to perform accurate calculations before installing the tee. You need to measure the height of the tee and the bottom mark where the cut will be made. Next, follow these steps:

Cut out a section of the pipeline.
Using a file, clean up the burrs inside.
Use silicone sealant to coat the outside of the pipeline.
Pull the compensating sleeve completely onto the pipeline.
Use silicone sealant to lubricate the second truncated pipe.
Install a plastic tee in this place.
Use silicone sealant to lubricate the narrow side of the expansion joint and apply it to the pipe so that the narrow side fits into the tee socket.
Install the tee cap.

To choose a suitable tee, measure the length of the pipe and select the appropriate diameter. For example, it can be 110 mm in diameter. The compensator, in turn, is a small section of the pipeline, which has a rolling diameter and which is put on the system with a wide part from the bottom up. Then it goes down the riser and with its narrow part is installed in the tee.

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Peculiarities

Depending on the material from which the pipe is made, you need to choose the right approach. For an elastic pipe, you can use a simple mortise tee or a splitter-corner, which is installed directly into the communication. But for metal, such devices are used very rarely, because there is a high probability of a pipe breaking at the junction.

Photo: tie-in into a cast-iron pipe

For tapping into sewer pipes, the following devices are used:

adapters;
Tees;
Pipes.

Each of the devices has its own characteristics and area of \u200b\u200buse. For example, adapters and tees are most commonly used in plastic piping. Due to their rigid attachment to the main pipe, they can help branch out pressure sewers, as well as a drainage system, non-pressure water drainage or even water supply.

Photo: tie-in tee

It is much more difficult to work with pipe splitters. Such devices are a piece of pipe of a certain size, which is inserted into a metal communication. Depending on the material, the splitter and the line are fastened by welding, cold soldering or special sealants for metal.

How to make a cut

Traditionally tie-in to a PVC, PP or PE plastic sewer pipe in a private house or apartment, you will need to buy special adapters. These parts are selected from the material from which the pipeline is made. They cut into the right place in the communication, are fixed and form a convenient and sealed outlet for connecting additional communications.

Flanges can be used to tap into a polypropylene or polyethylene sewer pipe of small diameter. To install such devices, you only need a hole on the highway. Before starting work, turn off the water, drill a hole, it is very important that its size exactly matches the selected flange, otherwise the tie-in will not be effective or will start to leak over time. Clean it of dust and plastic chips.

Video: how to make a tie-in into a pressurized sewer pipe.

Lubricate the inside of the hole and the outer section of the drilled pipe with sealant. Then install the flange connection on the line and tighten it tightly with the clamps on the top of the fastener. Due to the sealant on the outer section of the pipe, the tie-in will be strong and completely sealed. Tip: be sure to wipe the pipe before starting work, it must be completely dry. Do not turn on the water until the sealed mastic has completely solidified, on average it takes 8 hours.

Photo: flange for external sewage

How to cut into plastic pipe:

Before starting work, you need to turn off the water in the riser, otherwise it may break through the pipes when drilling a hole;
After that, you need to drill a hole in a specific hole. Strictly ensure that the size of the future tie-in location matches your needs and the size of the adapter;
Clean the hole with sandpaper with a little abrasiveness, then treat it with degreasing mixtures;
It remains only to install the adapter in the pipe and secure it with a bolted connection. Do not overtighten the bolts to prevent breakage or cracks in the line. It is desirable to treat the junction with sealants or mastics to form a strong and tight fastening.

Depending on the diameter of the sewer pipe, you need to choose the right tie-in adapter, for example, for 110 mm you need an adapter 50. For branching communications up to 50 mm, connectors from 20 to 32 mm are used.

To tap into a cast-iron or metal sewer pipe, you will need a piece of a similar hollow communication. Such a system is successfully used in a private house or in a country house, especially for arranging external non-pressure communication. How to branch with pipes:

Determine exactly where you need a tie-in, then mark this place on the drawing of the sewer system and turn off the water;
Using a drill with the appropriate bit, drill a hole of the required diameter. Be careful, make sure that there are no chips left at the processing site, which can damage communication;
Clean the hole from dust, metal fragments and dirt, degrease the surface;
Insert a pipe into the communication. In this case, you need to be extremely careful: by pushing the adapter too deep, you can form an obstacle to the normal flow of water. The optimal distance is 5 mm from the hole wall;
Having installed the pipe adapter at a certain distance, weld it to the line;
Treat the seam with special compounds that will protect it from corrosion and destruction.

At the end of the work, wait a few hours until the seam has completely hardened, and you can turn on the water. Periodically, it is recommended to lubricate the mount in order to prevent rusting.

Price

If you need an approximate estimate for making a tie-in into a sewer pipe, then calculate the cost of connectors, sealant, and fasteners. For example:

Flange mount or saddle VBT 10388 W4 - 450 rubles / 4 pcs;
Silicone colorless sealant - 90 rubles;
Additional elements (bolts, gaskets) - 200 rubles.

The total is 740 rubles. You can buy all the leaves in any plumbing store or on the Internet platform. When buying in bulk, the price may be slightly less. The diameter of the fasteners also plays a big role - the larger the size, the more expensive it will cost.

At the same time, the cost of work carried out by professional companies often exceeds 2,000 rubles, and in Moscow it can be 3,000 rubles.

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What are the features of connecting a pipe to a centralized system

Work on tie-in into a plastic water pipe, into a steel or cast-iron pipeline is entrusted to the specialists of the water utility or a qualified contractor (with the knowledge of the water supply organization).

Self tapping even into a public plastic water pipe is prohibited by law. Illegal is an additional tie-in to the centralized water supply bypassing metering devices.

Note! Planning an individual tie-in into a centralized system should begin with the issuance of an official permit. Independent connection is punishable by material and administrative punishment.

Appropriate permission should be applied to the department to which the desired pipeline belongs. In the case of a water supply system, this is a city water utility or an organization that maintains water supply communications in a village, township. To obtain a permit for a tie-in into a pipe, you should have documents for a land plot and a house with you.

Permission to tap into a centralized pipe will contain:

accurate data on the location of the tie-in;
indication of the diameter of the pipeline and branch;
additional information depending on the purpose of the work.

After obtaining permission, you should contact the SES. After that, a tie-in project is prepared and registered, an estimate of work is drawn up.

Scheme of insertion into a centralized water supply

If there is a collector well in the area where your house or plot is located, then the insert is carried out (if allowed) in this well. If it is located far away, then access to the pipe is carried out through an additional well.

For this:

in the place indicated by the project, they dig a square hole measuring 1.5-1.5 meters;
from the pit, in the direction of the house, they dig a trench for a future tap;
upon completion of all work on the tie-in point, an additional well with a cover is constructed for access to the connection point.

Connection to a centralized pipe, which is under pressure, is carried out in two stages:

Installation of the outlet flange with shut-off valve.
Reaming the body of the pipe.

You can crash into a plastic water pipe with or without welding. Connection to steel communications is usually carried out using a welded flange.

Note! The general rule for inserting a branch is that the diameter of the embedded communication is always less than the diameter of the central pipe.

Methods of tapping into a plastic water pipe inside an apartment

An additional outlet from the central water supply inside the apartment is easier to implement than a tie-in into a common pipeline.

For wiring inside the apartment does not require permission. The only condition for an independent intra-apartment connection is that all wiring around the house must be carried out after the water meter. The limitation may be a consideration of expediency.

Note! Too many serial connections to the water pipe will reduce the operating pressure. This leads to malfunctions in the operation of household appliances, to uneven supply of hot and cold water to faucets.

There are the following ways to insert into a plastic pipe:

tie-in of a special flange with a branch - a tee;
installation of a special saddle with a branch.

To install a tee, the water supply must be shut off. The saddle clamp can be installed on a pipe that is under pressure. For this, special plastic electrowelded flanges are used.

Tee tapping technology

Installing a tee on a water pipe is a classic way to insert an additional outlet. Work is carried out with the water supply turned off.

The technology for inserting a plastic tee is as follows:

Shut off the central shut-off valve at the input of communication to the housing, drain the water.
At the intended site, a part corresponding in length to the installed tee is cut out of the water pipe. This can be done with a grinder or a regular hacksaw.
In place of the cut piece, an electrofitting tee is inserted and welded to it using a special welding machine. You can rent such a device for one-time work.
A locking device is welded to the branch of the tee. If a collapsible connection is required, then the tee should be purchased with a thread. A metal valve is screwed to the thread. The issue of the presence and type of thread on the tee (internal, external) is decided at the planning stage.
Further installation of the outlet can be carried out with the water supply turned on, blocking it with an installed tap.

Using a simple plastic tee, welding it with a classic plastic soldering iron (flat iron) can be problematic. The fixed position of communication on both sides will not allow you to freely connect the pipe and fitting when welding the final connection. In addition, slipping a large soldering iron to the tie-in point can be difficult due to lack of space.

Note! A tee can be installed on a cold water pipe using cold welding.

For this, the contact points of the fitting and pipes are cleaned, thoroughly degreased, coated with special glue for plastic. This method of inserting into low-pressure plastic communications is the simplest and most affordable for an amateur.

Electrowelded saddle

The method of tapping into a plastic pipe using an electric welded saddle is the most convenient, practical and reliable. Such a connection can be made without turning off the water supply, to a pipe that is under operating pressure.

The electrowelded saddle is a special plastic fitting consisting of:

detachable part, which is installed directly on the pipe;
built-in drill for plastic;
side outlet for the locking device.

The detachable part of the saddle coupling is pulled together with special bolts. To screw in the drill, use either a hex wrench of the appropriate size, or a drill (screwdriver) if you purchased the appropriate fitting.

Insertion method by means of an electric welded saddle:

The tie-in place is cleaned with a scraper and degreased.
A saddle is put on the central pipe so that the location of the outlet pipe is in the right direction.
Tighten the mounting bolts so that the part does not move.
The saddle label is scanned with a welding machine for electrical fittings. At the same time, the device automatically sets the desired time and temperature of heating.
After completion of the process of electrofusion welding, it is necessary to allow the joint to cool. The recommended time is at least half an hour. The result is an inseparable, high-strength bond as the plastic is bonded at the molecular level during the welding process.
After the clutch has cooled, proceed to install the shut-off valve.
Drilling the center pipe is the final step in the tie-in. It is carried out with the valve closed.
The drill, after completion of work, does not need to be removed. A securely closed hole is maintained in this part of the branch. The lead itself is below. Sometimes a cover is provided on the nozzle with a drill, which is decorative in nature and has no practical significance.

The cost of an electric welded saddle starts from 1000 rubles. An apparatus for welding plastic electrical fittings costs from 70 thousand rubles (you can rent it). However, the quality of the connection with this method of tapping into the water supply will ensure uninterrupted operation for half a century.

Crimp clamp

The method of inserting into a plastic pipe using a crimp clamp with a pipe is as follows:

The crimp clamp is fixed in the place of the future outlet, aligning the clamp pipe with the planned hole.
Gaskets for additional sealing are coated with sealant. Often such protection is required when installing Turkish clamps.
A ball shut-off valve is attached to the nozzle.
Through an open valve, the central pipe is drilled.

Note! When carrying out work, care should be taken to isolate electrical appliances from possible ingress of water.

A tie-in using a crimp collar can be made not only on plastic communications, but also on steel, cast iron. When working with cast iron, its brittleness should be taken into account and drilling should be carried out without pressure.

Tapping into pressure systems under pressure is carried out using only electric fittings with built-in drills - electric welded saddles. Such parts are produced in different diameters.

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General points

If the section of the tie-in does not differ from the section of the main pipe, it is better to cut at an oblique angle, so that the tie-in is directed tangentially to the direction of flow of the drains. In this case, the turbulence that occurs when draining a large amount of water will not cause the sewer to overflow.

Please note: in addition, an oblique tie-in will create less problems when cleaning.
The cable will easily pass through such a connection, but if the angle is right, it will rest against the wall.

On long straight sections, it is desirable to have revisions or collapsible connections. They will again make life easier for you with blockages.
If the drainage system is mounted with turns in a horizontal plane, it is better to use not one 90-degree corner, but two 45-degree ones installed in series. A gentle turn clogs less often and is much easier to clean.
If the tie-in opens the riser, all parts that can move must be fixed to the wall with clamps. Do not rely on rubber seals or embossing: if the style can move down, sooner or later it will inevitably happen. And drains from neighboring toilets in your apartment are an extremely unpleasant thing ...

Solutions

Tee at the neck

The simplest case is if we need to crash into a sewer section where there is a socket connection. It is enough to shorten one of the pipes and install an assembly of a tee and a compensating pipe in the vacant gap.

The only problem that will arise in this case is the disassembly of the connection in a situation where the notorious compensating pipe is absent in the straight section of the sewage system.

How can the problem be solved?

It is enough just to cut the pipe in two places and remove the segment. For plastic sewerage, one cut is often enough. In the case of a cast-iron sewer pipe, you have to work hard, cutting down the remains of cast iron and putty from the socket.

Plastic sewer pipe is cut with an ordinary garden saw. For cast iron, a grinder with a cutting wheel for metal is used.

How to emboss a bell on a cast-iron pipe without damaging anything? You will need a narrow, durable screwdriver and a light hammer. With their help, cement putty is broken; then the cable sealing the joint is removed - oiled organic fiber.

Please note: in houses built in the 60s - 70s, builders sometimes filled the sockets with molten sulfur.
To emboss such a bell, you will have to thoroughly warm it up with a blowtorch or gas burner.
Work - strictly in a respirator and with open windows: the gases released during the combustion of sulfur are so caustic that they can cause respiratory paralysis.

Further operations are obvious:

The shortened pipe is inserted into the socket of the previous one.
A compensator is pulled onto a smooth section of the sewer.
A tee socket is put on it.
Then the compensating branch pipe together with the tee is pushed in the opposite direction so that the tee enters the socket.

Cast iron is minted; it is advisable to coat the rubber seals of the plastic sewer with silicone sealant before assembly. It will save you from leaks and odors if the rubber dries out over time.

Tee on a smooth area

What does a tie-in look like if there is no bell in the right place? The difference is small: a pipe section is cut out; then, instead of it, the assembly from the stylus is again inserted. The only difference is that it will have to be supplemented with a clutch.

Please note: if you are cutting a riser, the cast-iron pipe must be fixed above the cut until you pick up the grinder.
Even if her socket is in the overlap, she can sag with the caulking of the joint; it will not be easy to restore its tightness.

Saddle

It is a branch that is attached to a smooth section of the sewage system opposite the hole made. The saddle can be fastened either with a clamp or with glue or diffusion welding.

Glue can be made independently by mixing the solvent with plastic filings.

Useful: the most common sewer material - polyvinyl chloride - is soluble only with dichloroethane. Be careful: dichloroethane is toxic.

Two points are connected with the use of saddles:

The hole in the pipe should be slightly larger than the cross section of the outlet.
There should be no bumps or burrs on the edges.

Both requirements are due to the fact that any protrusions will inevitably become the cause of permanent blockages over time.

Conclusion

As you can see, all of the above methods are not very difficult. Good luck!

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Today, almost any plumbing work is, albeit a difficult matter, but it is quite predictable. That is, you can approximately calculate the budget, and possible deviations, and the timing of the project.

And all because modern materials have appeared on the market, which are very convenient to work with and which allow you to do plumbing not with torment, but with interest. We can say that the fittings and adapters that exist today have turned this business into a kind of constructor, the main difficulty of which is to create a truly high-quality connection of parts.

Such common work as a tie-in into a sewer riser is no exception. Now this is done quickly, reliably and inexpensively. Moreover, it does not matter what exactly the main branch of the sewer is made of.

Let's look at the difficulties that craftsmen had to face earlier when working independently, before the advent of modern technologies.

riser type	Standard difficulties and their causes
1. Cast iron.	As a rule, a tie-in into a sewer riser of this type was dangerous at least because the entire line as a whole could collapse when the desired section was dismantled. This happened quite often and mainly because dismantling was most often carried out with a hacksaw and a hammer. Now everyone can afford to buy a grinder for such work, which allows you to do without any strikes on the metal at all.
2. Steel.	In this case, it was also difficult to do it yourself, without the help of specialists and a large set of tools. Simply because steel, unlike cast iron, cannot be broken with a hammer. And with a hacksaw for metal, it was not possible to cut far from the entire circumference of the pipe. Here autogenous and other similar cutters usually came to the rescue, which would hardly have been found in the arsenal of a home master.

In addition, there was one more detail, because of which the installation itself was difficult - most often it was impossible to do without welding to connect the parts. And this is a very serious obstacle to independent work, you see.

Please note that we did not analyze the work with plastic material in this table.
Simply because such technologies have never been used in our country before.
However, step-by-step instructions for working with such pipes will be published below.

And now it’s worth considering in detail what tie-in methods exist now - you yourself will see that modern methods are much simpler, safer, cheaper and more efficient.

Self-tie-in to the riser

Before starting, it is worth noting that we will analyze only those methods that are most easy to implement on our own, and the price of which is affordable for everyone.

The only difficulties that may arise when performing the work described below is the need to invite a welder at some stage. However, you must admit that now it is not difficult to do this - there are many offers on the market. Moreover, such services will be needed for a very short time (maximum for half an hour).

Well, now let's start the review of the practical part.

Working with plastic

What makes this material uniquely convenient is its ease of processing and low weight. Such pipes are easily influenced by an ordinary hacksaw, and the connection is made either using a special soldering iron, or generally mechanically.

Tapping into a riser of this type, as a rule, is carried out by the second method.

It's done like this:

A special tee is bought with the same diameter as the pipes on the riser.

A fragment is cut out on the desired section of the highway, which should be several centimeters shorter in length than the length of the fitting.
The cut edges are cleaned with fine-grained emery or grinder. This is done in order to make the lines of "docking" as smooth as possible.
The edges of the highway are lubricated with ordinary sunflower oil. The same is done with the inner rim of the tee. If all this is not lubricated, then subsequently it will be difficult to fully connect the parts.
The riser pipes are inserted into the tee. But since, by default, the distance between the cut edges is less than the length of the adapter, a special approach is needed here. The extreme points of the riser are slightly retracted to one side and slightly inserted into the fitting, and then gradually reduced into one straight line and sunk deeper and deeper into the tee.

Such is the scheme.

Please note that before crashing into a sewer pipe (regardless of what it is made of), you need to warn the neighbors from above that the bathroom or kitchen drain cannot be used during such and such a period of time.
Otherwise, you run the risk of at least getting dirty during work, and at the maximum, poor-quality organization of the connection due to moisture entering the work plane.

Now about working with metal structures.

Connection with cast iron and steel riser

An insert into a cast-iron sewer pipe is performed according to this principle:

The grinder cuts out the desired fragment of the riser. If the disk does not reach any point of the circumference, then it is very undesirable to complete such dismantling with a hammer due to the fragility of the cast iron. It is better to try to finish the metal with a cloth - it will take more time, but the riser will remain intact. (See also the article.)
On that part of the pipe that is less mobile (usually the one that is shorter), the tee is slightly pushed on and tilted to the side. A more mobile pipe is also directed in the same direction, which is then also baited onto the tee.
The riser line is gradually leveled, and the pipes are sunk deeper into the tee.

As you can see, the diagram is very similar to the previous instruction. However, this method may not work if the sewer pipes cannot be moved. Indeed, in such a situation, it will simply be impossible for them to wear a tee.

The question of how to crash into a sewer plastic pipe may arise for owners of apartments and houses if it is necessary to install a dishwasher or washing machine. There are several ways to solve this problem, the choice of which is determined by the type of pipes used in the organization of the sewerage system, the size of the room and the financial capabilities of the homeowner.

Applying markings for tapping into a sewer pipe

A wide range of adapters for inserting into a plastic sewer pipe on the market makes it possible to choose a way to solve a problem that does not require large expenses. Among such devices are:

Adapters. They are used when it is impossible to perform a full-fledged tie-in into the pipe. The device includes an overlay fixed with fasteners and a branch pipe. In a similar way, outlets with a diameter smaller than the dimensions of the main pipe can be connected.
Tees. To install such devices, the pipe must be cut.

How to cut into a sewer pipe

How to make a tie-in in a sewer pipe:

Make a piece of pipe with an outlet of the desired size.
Make a preparation. The branch pipe and the part of the sewer to which it is connected must be of a size that allows it to tightly block the entry point into the sewer system.
Make a hole in the pipe. Its diameter must exactly match the size of the nozzle.
Treat the internal surfaces of the resulting part and the parts of the sewer to which it will be connected with a sealant.
Fix the part by firmly pressing it to the main pipe and tightening it with clamps. Crash and tighten neatly, without any extra effort. Work is stopped after the appearance of sealant from under the adapter. Excess funds are removed with a rag.

Insert in the riser

Insertion into the riser presents some difficulties. If all elements of the system are plastic, it will be easier to form an additional entrance.

To connect to the riser, you will need the following tools and materials:

A tee that will be used to form an additional input.
Compensating tube. This product is a long bell. The length of the riser that will enter this device can be up to 20 cm.
Sewer clutch. Used to connect the main pipe to the compensating pipe.

Tapping into the sewer system is a dirty job, so the person performing it must change into work clothes. The room is free from furniture and other things. The procedure includes:

Coordination of the start time of work with other residents of the house. It is necessary to ask the neighbors not to use the water supply and sewerage. In order not to create inconvenience to other residents, tie-in work must be carried out as quickly as possible.
Dissection of the main pipe and its adjustment to the dimensions of the compensating pipe. Sections are cleaned with a file, trying to remove as many burrs as possible.
Installation of a compensator and a tee. To facilitate the installation process of these devices, the inner surfaces are lubricated with liquid soap, which provides easy sliding. Fuels and lubricants cannot be used for this purpose. They damage the plastic, causing the connection to leak later.
Stand fixing. Clamps are used to attach the pipe to the wall.

Insertion into a horizontal sewer pipeline

This is the most common embedding method. Work is carried out according to the following scheme:

Partially disassemble the sewer system.
The section of the main sewer pipe into which the tie-in will be carried out is cut in half. After that, a part is cut out, the dimensions of which correspond to the length of the tee.
Fitting branch pipes are fixed, the pipeline is assembled with the installed element.

Inserting a sewer pipe with a tee

Using a tee, the tie-in includes the following steps:

Choosing the right tee size.
Sewer cover. Residents of the upper floors are asked not to use the sewage system during the work. Prepare a rag and basins in advance.
Measurement of a place for a tee.
Deleting a segment, instead of which the tee will cut. To do this, use a pipe cutter. If the tool blade does not reach some areas of the circumference, it is not recommended to use a hammer for dismantling. This causes damage to the sewer system.
Installing a tee in place of the removed segment. A tee is put on the less mobile part of the riser, taking it to the side. The more mobile part is moved in the same direction. After fixing the adapter, the riser line is aligned by inserting its parts into the socket of the tee as deep as possible. The sewer section is temporarily fixed with a bracket.
Connection of the main pipe with a tee. When performing these works, dexterity is required from the performer, since the tight fit of the sewer section to the floor or wall makes it difficult to access the junction.

Tapping with an adapter

If it is impossible to cut a part of the sewer system, an overlay is used. When installing the adapter, the tie-in includes the following steps:

Cleaning the area on which the overlay will be mounted. This ensures a tight fit of the part.
Formation of a hole for the removal of wastewater. If the adapter is mounted on an element with a diameter of less than 110 mm, the size of the hole must not exceed 50 mm.
Processing parts of the adapter adjacent to the pipe with sealant. The lining is fixed with clamps. To avoid damage to the elements of the sewer system, the clamps are pulled together carefully. The prepared hole must match the outlet on the overlay. It is better if it has a smaller diameter.
Installation of a rubber cuff, connection of a new plumbing fixture.

Insertion into a vertical riser

In the case of tapping into the riser without removing part of the pipe, a collapsible clamp is used. One part of it is deaf, the second has a branch pipe. A part of the system is connected to it, which is connected to a new plumbing fixture. The installation process will include the following steps:

Shutdown of water, blocking of the sewerage.
Formation of a hole in the area selected for installation.
Fastening the clamp with a pipe. For this, a screw connection is used.
Insertion of a sealant into the pipe. The seal looks like a corrugation made of rubber.
Inserting the outlet pipe into the corrugation.

Self-manufacturing of the clamp helps to minimize costs. For this, a pipe is taken, the diameter of which is equal to the cross section of the pipeline into which the insert is made. The segment is sawn in the longitudinal direction. One half will serve as the back of the clamp, in the second a hole is made equal to the diameter of the attached pipe.