The plastered surface is overwritten | Ceiling and walls are plastered and plastered

Alignment (plastering, puttying, screed) of the ceiling, walls and floor

The leveling of the ceiling and walls begins with the removal of old wallpaper, old putty, if necessary, old, poorly adhering plaster and old ceramic tiles to a solid base. If this is not done, then cracks will appear later. Alignment (plastering and puttying, screed) of the ceiling, walls and floor should be carried out in compliance with all technological processes, using modern materials and technologies. First of all, they level (plaster and putty) the ceiling so as not to stain the walls and floor. Alignment of the walls is carried out before the repair of the floors in the apartment.

Before applying a decorative coating to the ceiling and walls (wallpaper, paint, wallpaper for painting), they must be absolutely even and smooth. To do this, the ceiling and walls are plastered and puttied. If the irregularities on the ceiling and walls are 7 mm or less (usually these are plasterboard surfaces or already plastered), then it is enough to simply putty Vetonit or Pufas. First you need to determine the degree of unevenness of the walls (vertically, horizontally and diagonally) and the ceiling using a plumb line, level, rule and laces. Apply beacons to the surface to be leveled.

If the differences (roughness) are less than 1.5 cm, then you can level the walls and ceiling with gypsum plaster, with a preliminary deep penetration primer of the surface to be leveled. We apply "Betonokontakt" on the concrete base. If the differences are 2 cm or more, then it is better to use a plaster mixture of sand and cement (sold in bags of 50 kg). It should be applied in layers of no more than 2.5 cm on each layer, as the first layer was applied - you need to let it dry, then you can apply the next one and so on until you level the surface along the beacons. This applies only to walls, but not to the ceiling, since it is not recommended to apply a layer of 2 cm or more to the ceiling, in this case it is better to level the ceiling with a suspended plasterboard.

The plastered surface is rubbed, primed, allowed to dry and proceed to puttying. You can already putty the ceiling, since after plastering the layer of putty will be small. For puttying (high quality) we recommend laying a reinforcing sheet between the layers. After each layer of putty, as it dries, it must be sanded and the surface must be primed (to remove dust and better adhesion of the layers to each other). The last (finish) layer of putty, as it dries, is sanded with a “null” sandpaper. At the end of grinding, the surface is primed to remove dust. Everything, your walls and ceilings are ready for further finishing (painting, wallpapering, wallpapering for painting).

Alignment (screed) of the floor is made after leveling the ceiling and walls. First you need to determine the highest point of the room to be leveled using a hydraulic level. If the height difference, between the highest and lowest point, is less than 1.5 - 2 cm, then you can use the technology of self-leveling floors (self-leveling mixture), and if the difference is more than 2 cm, then you need to make a sand-cement screed along the beacons or a self-leveling floor ("thick layer" from 30 to 80 mm). If the layer is more than 6 cm, then we recommend adding expanded clay to the solution - (expanded clay has sound-absorbing and heat-saving properties) and pouring the floor in two layers. The first layer, with a high degree of unevenness, is filled with a solution with expanded clay, and the final (finish) one - with one solution.

According to the beacons, the solution is pulled together using the rule, the main thing is to make sure that the solution is in sufficient quantity, otherwise, there will be cavities after drying. After pouring, the screed should be allowed to stand for a day or two, then the screed should be rubbed. Complete drying of the screed depends on the thickness of the layer, the degree of humidity and the temperature in the room. Do not dry the screed with heaters, it must dry naturally, otherwise it will crack. It is better to cover the screed with a film. Complete drying of the screed occurs approximately 14 - 21 days after pouring. Everything, your floors are ready for further finishing (piece parquet, laminated parquet, parquet board, carpet, linoleum, tiles, etc.).

Before you engage in decorative finishing of the ceiling, its surface must be made perfectly flat. Only in this case the quality of work will be high. First of all, this condition must be observed with a ceiling made of precast concrete slabs, which are not always ideally installed. Therefore, first we make a ceiling screed, and only then we move on to decorative design.

Design features

The answer to the question of why you need a ceiling screed is quite simple. Reinforced concrete slabs are massive floor elements that are difficult to mount on the same level even with the help of technology, therefore, as a rule, there are some differences between them. Their value depends on the quality of the floor installation: the better the specialists and their work, the smaller the difference in the levels of the bottom of the plates.

Of course, you can not save money on your own home and call a team of specialists who can quickly and efficiently make a ceiling screed. But if you study all the nuances of this process, you can try to do it yourself.

Alignment methods

Before you start screeding the ceiling surface, you need to decide on the method that you will use. There are two types of ceiling surface screed: "wet" and "dry". The first method involves the use of solutions or mixtures. It can be a concrete ceiling screed made from cement mortar.

The second method requires the use of sheet materials such as drywall, plywood, fiberboard or chipboard. How to determine the right way to do the screed with your own hands? Of the several criteria, it is worth paying attention to one main one. To do this, measure the difference at the junction of the plates. If it exceeds 5 cm, then a wet screed will not work, since the thickness of the applied plaster will exceed the normalized value. This is fraught with the fact that, under the weight of its own weight, the plaster layer simply cannot withstand and falls, and this can already lead to human injury.

In addition, a large thickness of the plaster may exceed the normalized load for which the overlap was calculated, which will also lead to negative consequences. To prevent all this, you should turn to a dry screed. Of course, she also has her shortcomings. For example, this method “steals” a lot of height from the room, so already low rooms will become even lower.

Ceiling plastering

Plaster is a hardened concrete mixture, the process of applying which is quite laborious, especially on the ceiling surface. But this method of ceiling screed does not lose its relevance, because sometimes this is the only way to create a flat surface. In addition, you can plaster any coating: wood, concrete or metal. But in any case, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. They include several steps:

1. Cleaning the surface of contaminants, such as mold or other fungal stains that need to be disinfected;
2. Removal of the old coating in the form of paint, whitewash, etc.;
3. Priming of the concrete surface with the help of strengthening mixtures;
4. For wooden and metal structures, it is necessary to install a reinforcing mesh.

Then they proceed to the installation of lighthouses, on which the ceiling is then plastered. With the help of a masking cord, it is necessary to mark the zero level, by which the lowest mark of the ceiling surface is determined. It will be the first lighthouse. The rest are installed every 30-50 cm on plaster marks. The height of the beacons should not be more than the thickness of the plaster, that is, 5 cm.

Applying plaster on lighthouses

After installing the beacons, you can start plastering. To do this, you need to make a working solution based on gypsum, cement or lime. Then follow this simple instruction shown in the video:

1. Apply the first coat of spray without leveling;
2. Distribute several primer layers, gradually leveling the plaster;
3. After applying the last layer, remove the marks with beacons and fill the recesses remaining from them with a solution;
4. Using the rule applied along, across and diagonally of the ceiling, check the evenness of the surface (excessive plaster is cut off, and, on the contrary, more mortar is added to the missing places);
5. Seal with a trowel the inner corners and joints of the ceiling with the walls;
6. Apply a final carefully leveled coat to create a smooth surface.

When applying plaster, be sure to ensure that defects in the form of shells or pits do not form. After a rough screed, you can apply a top coat in the form of putty.

Dry screed

Do-it-yourself dry ceiling screed can be made of drywall, which serves as a quality alternative to the long and laborious method using plaster.

As you can see in the photo, with the help of drywall sheets, designers implement various ideas and ideas in interior design, which is an undoubted advantage.

In addition, the simplicity and speed of installation can also be attributed to the advantages of a dry screed. The sequence of work includes only three stages:

1. Marking the surface of the ceiling, when the zero level is placed on the walls, the corners and the frame are marked, and the options for laying out drywall sheets are determined so that their shift is equal to the step of the crate;
2. Mounting the frame structure - a stage involving the fastening of guides, which can be made of wood (attached to self-tapping screws or direct suspensions) or metal (fastening is carried out only on direct suspensions);
3. Cutting and installation of drywall sheets according to the drawing.

Results

Do-it-yourself ceiling screed is possible, despite its laboriousness. The main thing is to follow the installation steps and the recommendations of specialists. Then the ceiling with its evenness and beauty will only emphasize the interior design.

How to make a ceiling screed yourself?

The process of laying floor coverings in an apartment quite often runs into a problem with uneven floors. To solve such problems, there is a floor screed. It is worth noting that it is from the screed that you need to start the process of transforming the floor. The screed will eliminate irregularities, and in addition, add strength.

At the moment, cement-sand mixture (CPS) or special ready-made mixtures are the most common screed methods.

So, let's start making a ceiling screed

Before applying DSP, it is necessary to clean the surface of debris and dirt and be sure to prime it. The choice of primer type is made depending on the type and condition of the treated surface.

Then, to prepare the surface, a special material is applied - a primer. Depending on the porosity of the surface, it is diluted with water or applied undiluted.

Now the most important thing is to determine the zero level, that is, the highest place on the surface. From this place, beacons are set up, between which it is recommended to stretch the levels (rope, fishing line), after which it will be possible to visually assess the height of the future screed, and, accordingly, the required amount of material.

To facilitate work, especially on large areas, beacon guides are used, which allow pouring DSP in strips and prevent the mixture from spreading. There are special guides on sale, but for these purposes it is quite possible to adapt improvised means, such as metal pipes or boards, not exceeding the future screed in height. The recommended distance between them is 1 meter.

DSP is applied in a checkerboard pattern, through one strip and leveled with a trowel or a flat board.

After hardening, the guides are removed, and DSP is applied to the remaining strips. It is not recommended to make a screed more than three centimeters high, otherwise it may become cracked during solidification.

In the event that an increased load is planned for the future floor, it is necessary to reinforce the screed with a special mesh. In addition, reinforcement allows you to increase the height of the screed up to ten centimeters.

During the drying of the screed in the room there should be no sudden changes in temperature and drafts. It must also be remembered that the complete drying of the screed occurs no earlier than 30-40 days.

A perfectly flat ceiling surface is a prerequisite that must be met before decorating this surface so that the quality of the work carried out is of a high level. This is especially true for ceilings made of reinforced concrete slabs. The evenness of the ceiling is achieved after a dry ceiling screed is carried out.

A perfectly flat ceiling surface is a prerequisite that must be met before decorating this surface.

Design features

The complexity of leveling the surface of reinforced concrete slabs (unlike others) lies in the fact that most often they do not lie in the same plane, but there are significant differences between them.

The complexity of leveling the surface of reinforced concrete slabs (unlike others) lies in the fact that most often they do not lie in the same plane, but there are significant differences between them. In any newspaper you can find ads in which professional builders will do everything quickly and efficiently for a certain fee. But if you want to save money, then you can try to do everything yourself, based on the recommendations of experts. At the same time, the described nuances are suitable for almost any ceiling.

There are two ways to level (screed) the ceiling:

• "wet";
• "dry".

A “wet” screed involves the use of special solutions and mixtures, and a “dry” screed involves leveling the ceiling surface using sheet material. These include:

• drywall;
• plywood;
• Fiberboard, chipboard and many others.

There are several criteria for choosing a ceiling screed method, but the main one is that if the differences at the joints are more than 50 mm, then you should choose a “dry” leveling method, since the thickness of the plaster layer will exceed the permissible norm and may fall off during operation, causing serious injury to a person.

It should also be noted that a “dry” ceiling screed significantly reduces the height of the room, which is not very beneficial for. In this case, it is more advisable to use putty for leveling (subject to small differences).

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Ceiling screed: installation process

For work, you will need to prepare the following tools and fixtures:

In preparation for the screed, a layer of the previous finishing material, whitewash, putty is removed from the ceiling.

• spatulas of different sizes;
• aluminum rule;
• metal trowel or grater;
• plaster comb;
• plaster falcon;
• a plastic container with a volume of at least 18 liters;
• drill with mixer nozzle;
• sponge grout.

Before proceeding directly to leveling the ceiling surface with your own hands, you need to prepare it, especially if it is not a newly built house. A layer of the previous finishing material, whitewash, putty, etc. is removed from the ceiling.

In order for the work to progress quickly and not too tiring, you should use the recommendations of experts:

The plaster is removed with a sharp spatula, periodically undermining it.

For convenience, you can lengthen the spatula handle by screwing a wooden or plastic stick to it.

The plaster must first be moistened with a spray bottle or a foam rubber sponge.

It is much easier to remove a layer of water-based paint if a few drops of iodine are added to the water.

The most difficult thing is with water-dispersion paint. Here you will need to use either a drill with a wire brush, or a special wash, which can be purchased at any hardware store.

• a layer of old material is removed not only from the surface itself, but also from the tile joints. To do this, take a pick, hammer and spatula. Only the lagging and cracked part of the material needs to be removed;
• if there is a fungus on the surface, then, of course, you need to pay attention to this problem. Otherwise, the new surface will suffer the same fate. First, the surface is treated with an antiseptic, which is either bought in a store or made by hand, and then it is primed to increase adhesion to the material.

Do-it-yourself ceiling screed begins with the elimination of the largest defects using a coarse-grained putty for rough work. You can use tow, which is impregnated in a solution of such a putty and get a kind of sponge for sealing cracks. So that the joints between the plates do not crack, they are reinforced with a special mesh, which is pressed into the putty layer.

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Final moments: do-it-yourself flat ceiling

Before applying the second layer of putty, it is necessary to “comb” the first one with a plaster comb, without waiting for it to harden.

After all of the above, they begin to putty the entire surface of the ceiling, for which the prepared mixture is applied to the base and carefully leveled with a spatula. The putty mixture is applied in the direction away from you, with a thickness of not more than 20 mm. Further, the layer is leveled by the rule with zigzag movements towards itself. Before applying the second layer, it is necessary to “comb” the first one with a plaster comb, without waiting for it to harden.

Only after two days can you start applying the next layer.

Combing the previous layer allows the surface to be roughened to increase the adhesion of the materials.

The time interval for keeping the layers is determined by the level of humidity in the room. If the room is dry and warm, then the plaster hardens very quickly, and high humidity contributes to the uniform hardening of the material.

It is necessary to take into account such a moment that during the work the humidity of the air rises, therefore, the plaster will not dry quickly. You should not change the level of humidity artificially, since the layers of plaster must harden in the same conditions in which they were applied.

To level each subsequent layer, the rule is set with a straight edge towards itself.

Thus, the new layer will be thinner and smoother than the previous one, since the rule will remove all unnecessary. Before applying a layer of plaster, carefully check the degree of evenness of the ceiling.

To do this, you need to move the rule from one side to the other, and if there are irregularities, they are sanded with sandpaper.

In the event that it is planned to glue or paint the ceiling, after applying the plaster, the work is stopped for 10 minutes, and then the surface is moistened and rubbed in a circular motion with a special sponge grater.

This will make it possible to mask the traces left from working with a wide spatula. As soon as the surface of the ceiling becomes matte, this will indicate that the plaster has dried and can be smoothed out with a metal trowel. The ceiling screed is completed by applying a finishing layer of putty.

From the foregoing, we can conclude that do-it-yourself ceiling screed is possible if you follow all the recommendations of professionals.

A smooth snow-white ceiling is considered by the pros to be the most important indicator of an impeccably completed repair. Of course, this means that it has not experienced the trends of modern fashion with its inherent complications, such as multi-levelness and the rejection of white. Making a ceiling screed is a laborious task, but quite doable, and all work can be done independently.

The use of plaster or leveling mix, especially in rooms with low ceilings, where the possibilities for creating suspended structures are limited, allows you to “save” the height of the room, and the use of natural materials makes the ceiling “breathable”.

The preparatory stage of work includes a thorough cleaning of the ceiling surface from layers of old coatings, peeling plaster. It is also required to determine the largest height difference. It should not exceed 50 mm if the ceiling screed is supposed to be done using leveling compounds.

With small (up to 5 mm) differences, it will be enough to use leveling putties. On the construction market, you can find a fairly large assortment of putties that can be applied in a thick layer. Putty is applied to, and after drying, treated with sandpaper with fine grains.

But with a difference of more than 20 mm, it is necessary to use a reinforcing mesh and then work with plaster. Painting (serpyanka) and metal mesh are used. Serpyanka is glued to the ceiling with glue. The most commonly used is PVA. All seams should also be covered with mesh. On sale you can also find a self-adhesive serpyanka. To fix the metal mesh, staples or nails with wide hats are used. Such a grid is used if it is necessary to apply a plaster layer of more than 50 mm. Before plastering, the surface must be primed, for example, with concrete contact. Among modern materials that make it possible to eliminate significant differences, one can note, for example, the Rotband mixture.

Alignment quality control is carried out by various methods. You can use beacons, which are often used as nails. They are driven in so that the hats lie in the same plane, and the ceiling is leveled along a thin rope or thread stretched between them, filling the gap between the thread and the surface with plaster.

Another way is to use a water level. At its core, such a level is two communicating vessels filled with water. Applying level test tubes in different places, evaluate the degree of surface leveling. A more modern method is the use of laser marking. With this device, you can mark both vertical and horizontal lines.

After waiting for the due date, a layer of leveling putty is applied on dry plaster. Then primed and painted, if this option is chosen for the final finish. As a primer, you can take the same paint, diluted with a thinner indicated in the instructions for use, by 20 percent. If you decide to use a primer, then it is better to take it in tandem with paint from the same manufacturer.