What to see in Belgrade in 1 day. Belgrade in two days: what to see and what to do. The main sights of Belgrade: Knez Mihail Street

Falling in love with Belgrade at first sight is difficult. To many, it seems like a dull and unsettled city with nothing to do. We visited the fortress and Skadarliya, walked along Knez Mikhailova Street - what's next? Following standard tourist routes, it is most likely impossible to form an enthusiastic impression of the city. Belgrade is one of those cities that must be tasted. To understand it, you need to become a little local. So here are a dozen short tips that I hope will help you with this.

Eat breakfast like a Serb. Getting up early, first of all, taxi to the nearest one, stand in line, choose a fatty burek or pita to taste, add a glass of yogurt to the order, eat it all here, standing, or on the go. This is how most Serbs eat breakfast, ensuring that they are full literally until dinner.

Drink "cafa" non-stop- what 100% of the population of Belgrade does all day long. Join and you. Walking around the city, be sure to take long coffee breaks in numerous cafes, order "". While drinking, contemplate what is happening around. Caution: It is not recommended to drink more than three cups of coffee a day. You are still not a Serb.

try- Serbian burger, national fast food. Instead of ketchup and mayonnaise, ask for urnebes and. And be sure to bow - without it, splashing is not splashing. When you receive your order, be surprised by the portion sizes.

Hang out with the locals. Serbs love and know how to relax. In fun, the Serbian soul is revealed to the maximum. And they are also very sociable. They are especially happy when they hear Russian speech. To feel the whole buzz of the Serbian frenzy, head to: clubs, bars, or just street hotspots after dark - and join the party. A sleepless night and unforgettable (or forgettable - depending on the amount of alcohol consumed) impressions are guaranteed.

Try Serbian wine. Everyone knows about rakia, but few people know that Serbia is very good. I recommend paying attention to autochthonous varieties, for example, prokupats and tamyanika. Another big plus of local wine is that it is absolutely affordable.

Walk around Vracar. Usually tourists move in the Stari Grad area and do not go further than the Cathedral of St. Sava. In vain. There you can see a completely different Belgrade, quiet and homely. Walk along the streets of Vračar and Neymar, admire the old mansions covered with ivy and the ever-blooming roses in the front gardens, look into private courtyards, feel the relaxed Serbian life.

Ride a bike along the Sava and the Danube. The embankments of Belgrade provide for comfortable cycling, and it’s a sin not to take advantage of this. Rent a bike and ride along the rivers, enjoy the views, make stops for rafting. By bike it is convenient to get to, Zemun and the coastal part of Lower Dorchol.

Spend the sunset sitting on the wall of the fortress. In the evenings, romantically minded young people climb the walls of the Belgrade Fortress, dangling their legs and drinking drinks, watching the sunset over the confluence of the Sava and the Danube. The view is incredible! You will also find a place.

Do not hurry- my main advice. Belgrade does not like fuss. Yes, and there is nowhere to rush. Try to surrender to the rhythm of the city, enjoy the moment. Sit down on a bench in the park or at a table in a summer cafe, watch the townspeople, their worries and simple joys. You will understand what I am talking about. And love Belgrade.

Belgrade is sometimes referred to as the "gateway to the Balkans". Despite the fact that the city has quite a long and interesting history, tourists will hardly find pompous palaces, outstanding monuments or world-famous museums here. But the lack of external gloss is more than compensated by the special atmosphere of the city streets and the boundless cordiality of the Serbs.

The main architectural sights of the capital are the Belgrade Fortress and the Temple of St. Sava, which cannot be completed in any way. In some parts of the city, traces of the 1999 NATO bombing are clearly visible. Many destroyed walls and houses were deliberately left in such a state so that that terrible time would not be erased from the memory of people. Otherwise, Belgrade is a modern and dynamic city with its own charm and character.

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What to see and where to go in Belgrade?

The most interesting and beautiful places for walking. Photos and a short description.

The Belgrade fortress arose in the 1st century. Some sources are inclined to believe that the building was built several centuries earlier. Most of the buildings belong to the 18th century, although traces of the Roman and Byzantine eras have been preserved inside the fortification. For such a long time, the fortress was fought for more than 100 times, 44 times it was destroyed and rebuilt. Today, most of the territory is a landscape park.

A large green oasis in the historical center of Belgrade, surrounding the Belgrade Fortress. It was defeated by order of Prince Milos Obrenović in 1867, when the territory of the fort came under the control of the city authorities. Previously, this place was used by the Ottoman Turks for military exercises. Kalemegdan has a military museum, an art gallery, a zoo, a play area for children, monuments and sports grounds.

The old city quarter, which is often called the Serbian "Montmartre". Skadarliya is famous for the fact that famous writers and publicists lived and worked here. Russian poet I. Bunin also once visited this area. The place gained Bohemian fame in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Today, the quarter has retained its special atmosphere of creativity and freedom, which invariably attracts tourists.

Pedestrian alley in the heart of Belgrade, where all the guests of the city are sure to get. For the capital of Serbia, it has about the same meaning as the Arbat for Moscow. At any time, the street is filled with artists, musicians, actors, souvenir sellers and walking tourists. People dine in restaurants, pop into shops, watch impromptu skits and just enjoy the pleasant environment.

Science museum dedicated to the life and work of the outstanding scientist N. Tesla. It was founded in 1952 by decision of the Yugoslav government. The exposition occupies a two-story mansion on the street. proletarian brigades. The unique collection contains models of Tesla's inventions, as well as his manuscripts, drawings, letters and some personal items. In total, the collection contains several tens of thousands of exhibits.

The collection was created in the middle of the 20th century on the initiative of a group of enthusiasts who could not imagine their existence without the sky and flights. Since 1989, the museum has been housed in a futuristic building on the territory of the Belgrade airport. Aircraft, aircraft engines, rockets and special equipment are collected here. There is also a section with photographs and books on related topics.

The museum is located on the territory of the Belgrade Fortress. It contains more than 30 thousand items that belong to different eras: weapons, maps, banners, uniforms, equipment, documents, photographs, personal belongings of soldiers and much more. Among the interesting exhibits are Austrian cannons, the Katyusha installation and the T-34 tank. The museum appeared in 1878 thanks to the assistance of Prince Miloš Obrenović.

The National Museum is considered one of the largest in Serbia. Its collection consists of almost 400 thousand exhibits. Ancient Egyptian and Roman artifacts, coins, sculptures, costumes and household items from different eras are stored here. Particularly impressive is the art exposition, which includes works by Matisse, Rubens, Picasso, Rembrandt, Van Gogh and other eminent masters of the 16th-20th centuries.

The theater building is one of the most picturesque in Belgrade. It was built in 1869 according to the project of A. Bugarsky in the eclectic style, which combines elements of almost all known architectural trends. The last major renovation took place in 1989. The best actors of the former Yugoslavia and present-day Serbia have performed and are performing on the stage. In the theater, dramatic productions are on a par with opera and ballet.

The construction of the cathedral began in 1894 on the very spot where, by order of the Ottoman occupation authorities, the relics of the first Serbian archbishop, St. Sava, who lived in the 12th-13th centuries, were burned. Until 1939, only the walls were erected, then the Second World War began. Work continued until the early 2000s with long interruptions. Even now the temple is still not finished. Nevertheless, he acts and receives parishioners.

An Orthodox church located near the parliament building. The church was built in the 1930s in the Serbian-Byzantine style in imitation of the architecture of the Gracanica monastery. The remains of Stefan IV Dusan, the creator of the Serbian kingdom, lie inside. St. Mark's Church is famous for its valuable collection of icons from the 13th-19th centuries. Such a rich collection of divine images, perhaps, is no longer in any temple in Serbia.

The temple is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. It is one of the oldest in Serbia, as according to the surviving manuscripts it was built in the 13th century. The building is located right next to the walls of the Belgrade Fortress. It is noteworthy that even during the First World War, Serbian soldiers, in respite between battles, tried to restore the badly damaged church, which speaks of the incredible patriotism of this people.

Broz Tito - General Secretary of the Central Committee of the SKYU, in fact the sole ruler of Yugoslavia until 1980. After his death, inter-ethnic conflicts broke out with renewed vigor, which eventually led to the collapse of the country. The Mausoleum of Tito is a kind of Mausoleum of V. I. Lenin, only the Yugoslav leader rests in a closed sarcophagus. Also at the tomb there is a museum where gifts and personal belongings of the leader are kept.

The castle is located in the center of Belgrade in one of the oldest districts of the city. It was erected in 1830 according to the project of Kh. N. Zhivkovich. The building is a classic example of Belgrade urban architecture of the 19th century. It was built for the wife of Prince Obrenovich, Princess Ljubica, and their sons. At various times, the palace housed a lyceum, a gymnasium, a court, a boarding school and even a church museum. In 1979 the castle was recognized as a cultural monument.

The monumental palace in the classical style was erected in 1936 according to the project of J. Ilkic and K. Jovanovic. At the final stage of construction in 1934, the chief architect of Yalta N.P. Krasnov joined the work on the interior. For a long time, the government of Yugoslavia sat in the building, since 2006 it has been occupied by the Parliament of Serbia. The building has an important historical and cultural significance and is considered a valuable monument.

A memorial building erected at the end of the 19th century in honor of the millennium anniversary of the formation of the first Hungarian settlements. The construction of the tower was financed by the authorities of Austria-Hungary. The height of the structure is 36 meters, which made it possible to use it as an observation tower and respond in time to a fire. There is a free observation deck on the upper floors of Gardos.

TV tower on Mount Avala, which was destroyed in 1999 during the NATO operation "Allied Force" and restored only by 2010. It is this fact that causes an increased interest of tourists in the sights. The structure is considered the highest in the Balkans. Mount Avala towers over Belgrade and its surroundings by 500 meters. It is a popular holiday destination for residents of the capital and suburbs.

The city zoo is located in close proximity to the walls of the Belgrade fortress. During the bombing of World War II, many animals died, some fled and hid on the streets of the city. Since then, employees have been practicing the most humane treatment of four-legged animals. For animals created the most comfortable conditions of detention. Some animals even walk quietly among the visitors.

A peninsula located on the outskirts of Belgrade, a popular recreation area with a lake and a pebbly beach. Here you can not only swim and sunbathe. Citizens come here for a picnic, play sports, dine in a cafe or chat with friends. Deer, hares, pheasants and ducks live on the peninsula, which are periodically shown to people. You need to come here for at least one day to fully enjoy the local nature.

The capital of Serbia is located at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. Stormy waters join where the Pannonian lowlands merge into the Balkan Peninsula. This is a wide bend with picturesque shores, in the middle of which there is an island overgrown with lush vegetation. Pleasure boats often ply here. The meeting point of the two water arteries is clearly visible from the territory of the Belgrade Fortress.

The sights of Belgrade in Serbia are a juicy, pouring bone of contention. Some tourists, having arrived in the capital, wrinkle their noses in disappointment and declare: there is nothing to see here. If only there was a colosseum, even the most overwhelming, or a sphinx, albeit a dwarf one - but nothing, boredom.

Others immediately fall in love with Belgrade and stay here to wander the streets for days on end, shouting in ecstasy: sunset! Danube! chestnuts! smell of coffee! soul of the city!

Which camp you join - Belgradophiles or Belgradephobes - depends on your tastes and, of course, how much you have time to get around in the city. I suggest you take a look at this article before your trip. main sights of Belgrade in Serbia with photo, description and location on the map.

Well, if you live here and think that you know the capital like your five emigrant fingers, read about the hidden side sights of Belgrade. Curious details and hidden corners, an unusual past and a strange present, fascinating legends, amazing facts and "Easter eggs" unknown to many indigenous people.

At the end of the article - a short list, but the sights of Belgrade on the map in Russian:

Red color - they are worthy, and blue - their secrets.

KNOWN

Belgrade's most famous landmark is the fortress in the Kalemegdan park in the city center, where the Sava flows into the Danube.

Although only the park is formally called Kalemegdan, this name, through the efforts of the people, was transferred to the fortress and the entire hill. Belgrade people love to gather autumn leaves here, dance, defile under the arm and kiss while sitting on the walls.

In the evenings, Kalemegdan gives the best sunsets in the city; in the mornings, when there are few people, pine alleys are teeming with squirrels. During the day, the air rings over the chess tables - they are occupied by pensioners and arrange intellectual battles. At night, benches and secluded places are occupied by lovers ... However, here is a photo of the sunset for you.

The first buildings on the hill appeared in the 1st century AD; The fortress was destroyed and rebuilt every now and then. Now on Kalemegdan you can not only look at the powerful surviving walls, fortifications and towers, but also visit Military museum, two churches, a large zoo and a children's Dinosaur Park. In addition, there are also cafe-restaurants, whose terraces offer a gorgeous view of Belgrade and its rivers.

Cost of visiting: entrance to the park and the fortress on Kalemegdan is free; tickets to the museum, zoo and Dino Park are paid separately.

HIDDEN

eared uncles

In pursuit of sunsets and views, no one notices two funny characters hiding near one of the shops - Eared Joku (ushati Yoka) And Uncle Glish (chica glish). And what are these uncles, and where do they live?

There are various rumors about the origin of Eared Joki (read softly - Jyoka). From fantastic: the poor sad freak is the first Belgrade vampire. To believable: just some joker wanted to become a landmark of Belgrade and carved his portrait in stone at night.

One thing is clear: the Kalemegdan eared eared appeared in the middle of the 20th century.

Even less is known about Uncle Glish, and I discovered him by accident when I was looking for Joka. I can assume that this is also someone's joke, because chicha glish- a character in Serbian children's songs and coloring books, a primitively drawn little man in the style of "sticks and circles".

If you want to get acquainted with the uncles, here is their address: the northern wall of the fortress (Danube side), right next to the chesma source of Mehmed Pasha Sokolovich.

Now I understand why Jokin's face is written with disgust. Make you look at the trash can every day and you would look like this.

twin fishermen

Many have passed by this statue more than once: a naked young man, covered only by a casually thrown fishing net, thoughtfully strangles a snake. Meanwhile, at Rybak the fate of the hero of a classic Indian film - with the loss and acquisition of a twin brother, except perhaps without songs and dances.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the Serbian sculptor Simeon Roksandich, the author of the monument, sent it to an exhibition in London. Having struck the British with muscle bumps, Rybak sailed home on the ship, but did not swim - the sculptor was informed that the ship had sunk, and with it the statue.

Fortunately, Roksandich had a plaster mold left, and he cast Rybak No. 2, which is almost completely identical to his older brother. But before the bronze on the lips of the youngest had dried, the ship with Rybak No. 1 suddenly arrived - it turned out that the sculptor was misinformed, and there was no crash.

Having danced and celebrated this event, the happy father of the twins sold them to the Serbian and Croatian authorities. Since then, the brothers have been working as fountains in tourist areas; one is a landmark of Belgrade, and the second is Zagreb.

Kalemegdan underground

Dozens of meters under Rybak and eared branches network of underground passages and rooms. They dug it in Roman, Austrian and Yugoslav times. Some places can be visited on your own or with the popular tour "Belgrade under Belgrade" by the writer Zoran Nikolic. Photos below are from the official website of the fortress.

For example, Roman well- a hefty tunnel 51 m deep. The Austrians built it in the 18th century, but the Serbs, already accustomed to accidentally digging up the heritage of the Empire in their gardens, dubbed it accordingly by inertia. Ticket price - 120 dinars(1 euro).


Not a hadron collider, but a Roman well

The Austrians distinguished themselves by the construction of another attraction of Kalemegdan and Belgrade - Large powder warehouse. True, here the ancient Romans again spoiled them, pulling the blanket of glory over themselves: there is now an exhibition of Roman sculptures and sarcophagi in the warehouse. Ticket price - 200 dinars.

military bunker on Kalemegdan was built in 1948, when relations between the USSR and Yugoslavia cooled to the temperature of okroshka in Oymyakon. The Serbian government was afraid of Soviet missiles and gave the order to build a shelter in a strategically important place. By the mid-1950s, relations between our countries had warmed up, and, fortunately, the bunker never had to be used. Ticket price - 100 dinars.

2) Street of Prince Michael

KNOWN

If Kalemegdan is the heart of Belgrade, then Prince Michael street- the artery adjacent to it, important and famous. Knez Mikhailova or, as our emigrants called it, Stas-Mikhailova (simply by consonance) is a pedestrian zone framed by historical buildings with galleries, cafes and shops.

Local residents here get an invaluable opportunity to look at crowds of foreigners over a cup of coffee, tourists -; and all walk back and forth together, mixing the Belgrade air. It is empty and deserted here only in the early morning.

HIDDEN

Circulating along Knez-Mikhailova, passers-by carefully bypass the street located in the center pyramid. According to official statements, the figure stands here to show the geographic coordinates of Belgrade - it shows the cardinal points, the height of the city above sea level, latitude and longitude.

But some historians and journalists sound the alarm: this pyramid is not simple, but masonic, cut-off. Indeed, if you look, for example, at a dollar bill, you can see the classic Masonic symbol - a pyramid with a tip floating in the air.

True, the Belgrade pyramid lacks the All-Seeing Eye. Conspiracy theorists only nod: that's what Freemasons and Freemasons are for, so as not to burn. And freemasons did not sign on the pyramid, but ingeniously hid three eyes at once in the windows of the building of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts.


Far-fetched Masonic eyes. Used photo from the site alo.rs

The symbolism of the pyramid on the street - one of the main attractions of Belgrade - can be believed or not. One thing is certain: the Masonic thread has been woven into the fabric of Serbian history more than once.

3) Republic Square and a monument to Prince Mikhail

KNOWN

Running through the center of the street of Prince Michael sideways hurts Republic Square. In Serbian it is called Trg republic, and I won’t be surprised if you can’t pronounce the first word right away - there are no vowels in it.

But on the square itself there is a lot of interesting things: the National Museum, the Cultural Center, the National Theater and the monument to Prince Michael on horseback, near which Belgrade people meet. Moreover, even though a monument was erected and prince, make an appointment "at the horse" (koњa code), which is somewhat unfair to the august person.

Note: in the summer of 2018, the reconstruction of Republic Square began, and for about a year it will be blocked off. You can walk to the buildings, but the view is not the same as in the photo.

HIDDEN

Sinister Istanbul Gates

Many contemporaries do not suspect that on the site of the beautiful and bright building of the National Theater there once stood sinister istanbul gate. They were built, again, by the Austrians in the first half of the 18th century, and the name of the gate was given because the path to Istanbul ran through them. And before them, the Turks impaled the rebellious Serbs.

The arch acquired a bad reputation and became a symbol of the suffering of the Serbian people under the yoke of the Ottoman Empire. Therefore, in 1866, Prince Mikhail ordered the gates to be razed to the ground, and a couple of years later, a stone's throw from the place of execution, the construction of a theater began - a new landmark of Belgrade instead of the gloomy gates.

Monument to Prince Michael

The monument to Prince Mikhail, like Rybak, has a couple of relatives, however, of much more noble origin.

In order to adequately perpetuate the image of the prince in bronze, Belgrade invited the Italian sculptor Enrico Pazzi. He, without thinking twice, was inspired by the statues of Ferdinando and Cosimo de' Medici in Florence and began to create.


Monuments of the Medici in Florence - "relatives" of Prince Michael

The finished monument really looked like the Medici - posture, pedestal and other features. But the people of Belgrade were struck by something else: the prince was not wearing a headdress!

In those days, decent statues of generals were supposed to wear at least a purely symbolic hat. The uncovered head shocked the townspeople so much that they burst into gossip and even attributed the sculptor to suicide out of shame for the naked-headed monument. In fact, Pazzi returned to Italy and, without blowing his mustache, lived to a ripe old age.

Having devoted so much attention to the hat, Belgrade residents almost did not notice (and even now they hardly notice) an important detail. On the pedestal, under the block with scenes from Serbian history, there are 6 tablets with the names of cities.

These are Belgrade, Smederevo, Kladovo, Soko, Uzhice and Šabac - cities that the diplomacy of the prince - with or without a hat - helped to liberate from the Turks.

4) Skadar street

KNOWN

War is war, but lunch is on schedule: while sightseeing in Belgrade, take a look at Skadar street(or "Skadarliya"). Here you can combine business with pleasure - touch the next layer of history and indulge in the most famous restaurants of the city.

There was once a poor gypsy settlement on the site of Skadarliya, but after 1870 it found a new life. Artists, writers, poets, actors and simply enterprising townspeople flocked here, changing the area beyond recognition.


Interesting Skadarliya: 1. wandering Actor; 2. Poet Djura Jaksic near his house; 3. The chesma source at the end of the street is a copy of the chesma from Sarajevo.

Quickly, like mushrooms, cozy kafans-taverns grew up, where in the evenings urban bohemia. The street was paved with cobblestones, planted with sprawling trees, and Skadarliya became famous as the center of excellent cooking, creativity, live music, communication and fun.

Some contemporaries wave their fork in dismay and complain that Skadarliya is no longer the same. Only the façade remains of Bohemianism, and there are places in Belgrade where you can dine cheaper and tastier. In some ways, they are right, but you should definitely turn here - listen to the "Starograd" songs, take a walk along the pavement, try Serbian cuisine and cut off a piece of a drunken Skadarli evening on your plate.

HIDDEN

in kafana Ima dana they decided to remember the regulars of Skadarliya in a special way - by drawing them. The cream of the Belgrade bohemia is watching the eaters with tenderness. And who knows, if you eat with appetite and shine with talents, maybe your portrait will one day decorate the walls of the restaurant.

Some of the most colorful visitors to the kafana (and other institutions of Skadarliya) are the fortuneteller Ljubica and the drummer Cholet.

It is said that Ljubica predicted to Margaret Thatcher that she would become prime minister. The Iron Lady thanked the fortune-teller and promised to invite her to the inauguration, but the invitation never reached the Skadarly mailboxes.


Real photos of Ljubica and Cholet, along with photos of other notable visitors, hang at the entrance to the kafana

And Cholet surprised Rockefeller himself: when the rich man, having tasted rakia and enjoying traditional live music at the Three Sheshira restaurant, decided to make the drummer happy with a generous tip, he approached Rockefeller and whispered: “I am a rich man, and tonight I will sleep peacefully on a bench. And how will you sleep?

Whether the musician's tycoon understood, how he reacted, and how he slept that night, history is silent about this.

5) Hotel "Moscow"

KNOWN

The Moskva Hotel in the center of Belgrade looks like a flock of ladies in elegant hats is about to fly out of its doors and, rattling beads and waving lace gloves, scurry into the nearest pizzeria.

It sounds strange, but "Moscow" was designed by Petersburgers - a group of architects from St. Petersburg led by Serb Jovan Ilkic. The building was built in 1908, which is eloquently evidenced by the modern look of the hotel - curlicues, trinkets, turrets, bas-reliefs and the noble green color of the roof.

The hotel has become not just a hotel, but also a real landmark of Belgrade: over the years of its existence, many famous and influential people - politicians, actors, musicians (and a total of more than 40 million guests) have stayed in it.

Mere mortals can also spend the night here - prices for a modest double start from 100 euro/day. What is not so expensive for a hotel with history, location and lush interior.

Even more mere mortals can take a seat in the spacious cafe on the ground floor of the hotel and drink coffee there with a bite of branded cherry and pineapple cake "Moscow-Schnitt" for 4 euros.

HIDDEN

While visitors are chasing teas and coffees in the hotel's confectionery, solid pumps diligently drive water in his cellar. Despite the fact that Moskva is built on a hill, underground water mysteriously flows from all sides and upwards, flooding the building.


Photo: telegraf.rs

This unpleasant feature was already discovered during the construction of the hotel, and Belgrade residents had to urgently think of something to plug up the gushing firmament. For the foundation, they brought 82 five-meter wooden beams, 30 wagons of wrought iron, 10 wagons of granite and marble, and covered this splendor with a concrete slab 2.2 meters thick.

But "Moscow" was still leaking; in the 70s, wayward Belgrade water rushed through the walls so much that it flooded the basement by a meter. In order not to tarnish the reputation of the hotel completely, it was decided install pumps. They are still there, diligently working for the benefit and dryness of the hotel business.

More interesting facts about the Moscow Hotel:

  • it is the only hotel in Belgrade that does not have a single apartment numbered 13;
  • during World War II, the main headquarters of the Gestapo was located here;
  • in the 70s, a distinguished guest, whose name is not given, arrived in "Moscow" with his personal herd of camels. The animals were housed in a nearby park and milked every morning, and the milk was taken to the hotel kitchen. There it was boiled, cooled and taken to a gourmet guest. Everyone has their little weaknesses.

6) Building of the National Assembly (National Parliament)

KNOWN

I don’t know why, but looking at the building of the National Assembly (National Parliament of Serbia), many tourists say that Belgrade is similar to Berlin.

The Parliament was built for almost 30 years, completed in 1936, and the Russian architect Nikolai Krasnov also took part in the design. On both sides of the main staircase there are statues - rearing horses and their tamers - personally reminiscent of St. Petersburg horses on the Anichkov Bridge.

Looking across the road at the Houses of Parliament old palace- a rich mansion of the Obrenović and Karageorgievich dynasties.

HIDDEN

Batal Jamiya Mosque

Sometimes it is hard to believe what changes can befall an ordinary piece of land. Until the second half of the 19th century, on the site of the Parliament building stood Turkish mosque Batal Jamiya.

Image: Wikimedia Commons

Construction began in the 16th century by Einehan Beg, and at that time the mosque became famous as the largest building in Serbia and an unusual landmark of Belgrade. But the years passed, the capital passed from hand to hand, the chapel was shelled, used as a warehouse, and two centuries later its condition became quite deplorable.

Then came the name "Batal Jamiya" (battle- abandoned, tour.). The Turks offered to restore the mosque, but the Serbs were against it, because this could strengthen the Ottoman influence and power.

The public offered to remake Batal-dzhamiya into the National Museum of Serbia or a library, but in the end, by order of the military leader Blaznavets, in 1869 (or 1878) the mosque was destroyed, and a little later the building of the Assembly was built in its place.

Observation tower from Macedonia

A nondescript pile of boulders across the road from the Parliament is deprived of the attention of passers-by. Only from time to time the cries of the parents are heard here: Milos, son, do not climb the stones - you'll get it! But this "heap" is not simple - just the case when the mountain itself comes to a person.

Or, more precisely, when a person himself brings the mountain to other people.

During the First World War, the Serbian army defeated the Bulgarian one on a mountain range Kaimakchalan in Macedonia. To perpetuate the victory, the Serbs decided to bring home observation tower, with which the military leaders surveyed the expanses.

The tower was dismantled to the smallest pebble and, either by hand or by carts, they lowered it from the peak of St. Elijah with a height of 2524 meters, and then delivered to Belgrade. Let me remind you: the beginning of the 20th century, 550 kilometers from the capital, there are no construction vehicles, roads, trucks and courier services.

In Belgrade, the appearance of the tower was recreated in detail, it was installed in Pioneer Park opposite the Parliament and plates with depictions of Serbian generals who participated in the First World War were added.

7) Tashmaydan park and churches

KNOWN

If, running from one sight of Belgrade to another, you are tired of the stone and want to listen to the rustle of birds and the singing of leaves, look at ... a stone field. Green Tashmaydan park in the city center got its name from the Turks ( tash- stone, meydan- field, tour.), who appropriated the quarries that the Romans once developed here.

Now, on the site of the quarry, there is a chic, well-groomed park with the Church of St. Mark, as if hovering above the trees.

On Tashmaydan you can walk, go in for sports (there are treadmills, outdoor exercise equipment and a swimming pool), breathe the air on the benches, study strange statues of famous personalities and unknown fruits of the imagination of sculptors. And also watch a movie - in the summer they organize free outdoor film festivals.

HIDDEN

The coffin of Wrangel and the scarf of Tsarevich Alexei

Near the monumental church of St. Mark, a tiny church of the Holy Trinity (or, as it is also called, Russian church). It was built in 1924 according to the project of the architect Valery Stashevsky for white emigrants who flooded into Serbia after the October Revolution.

Baron Wrangel himself was also present at the consecration of the temple. Five years later, he died of tuberculosis in Brussels, and his ashes were transferred to the Russian Church in Belgrade.


Baron Wrangel is buried in the church. Photo: ekspres.net

In the church of the Holy Trinity there is also a flap Tsarevich Alexei's shawls, which he received as a gift from the sisters and loved to wear. After the execution of the Romanov family, the White Guard sent the shawl, along with other surviving things, to the sister of Tsar Nicholas in London.

Years later, one of the patches of the shawl, having passed through many indifferent hands, ended its journey in Belgrade.

Caves of Tashmaydan

Tashmaydan is pierced underground passages and caves, like cheese - holes. And only recently they were officially turned into a landmark of Belgrade - they began to let visitors in.

In this “cheese”, the townspeople have been hiding from enemy attacks for centuries, and the young hooligan also from retribution for theft (and this is how the tent slang appeared - read about it).


Park underground. Photo: blic.rs

One of the caves is completely concreted - this is the German "inheritance". During the Second World War, the Nazis took a fancy to Tashmaydan and adapted the catacombs to their needs: they built an elevator and an electric generator, installed a telephone and a ventilation system. In such an autonomous underground citadel, 600 soldiers and officers could hide.


Photo: beograd.rs

8) Temple of St. Sava

KNOWN

One day the sky split over Belgrade. One of its fragments fell to the ground and turned into blue and white Temple of Saint Sava- the largest Orthodox church in the Balkans.

The official version, however, says that the construction of the temple began in 1935, on the site where the Turks burned the relics of a saint very revered in Serbia - Archbishop Savva. Construction was interrupted more than once for various reasons - bureaucratic and military.

In 2004, the temple was finally completed, its height was 82 meters, and it can accommodate 10,000 believers. Until now, work is underway on the interior decoration, by the way, with Russian support: dozens of our restorers and artists participated in the creation of the mosaic for the dome. And Gazprom allocated more than four million euros for this.

HIDDEN

And again, under the landmark of Belgrade, the "secret room" is hidden - a vaulted golden crypt an area of ​​2 thousand square meters.

Patriarchs of the Serbian Orthodox Church will be buried here, and various cultural events are already being held. And, of course, divine services - in the crypt is the church of St. Prince Lazarus.

9) Old Zemun

KNOWN

Zemun - the charming old district of Belgrade, Belgrade people say.
Zemun is a charming old town, the people of Zemun insistently correct them.

The fact is that once Zemun was considered a separate city, but as the capital grew and swelled, Belgrade sucked it into itself and reduced it to a “district”. Indigenous people categorically disagree with this and in informal conversations demonstrate moderate separatism: “Zemun is not Belgrade, don’t stick around.”


Zemun house with a sundial

Tourists, however, do not care about this debate: they are interested in Zemun as one big attraction of Belgrade. And they like to compare it with Riga or Tallinn: touching old houses, red-tiled roofs, cobbled streets and a special atmosphere, so inherent in cozy European towns.

However, Zemun is in desperate need of a good facelift. The district town lacks gloss, the plaster is peeling off the buildings like the husks from a new potato, and the cobblestone pavement blows bubbles right under the feet of stumbling pedestrians.

But still, be sure to set aside at least half a day to wander through the humpbacked streets of Zemun. And, of course, look at the main attractions of the area, these are:

1. Gardosh tower(other names are the Millennium Tower, Yanko Sibinyanin Tower) on a hill. The tower, 36 meters high, was built in the 19th century, and if you climb to the very top, you can gasp at the magical view of Belgrade, Zemun, the Danube and the Big Military Island. Ticket price - 200 dinars.

True, almost the same view opens at the foot of the tower, where you can go for free. And if your legs buckle after walking through the hills, take a break in one of the cafes on the plateau.


Gorgeous view from Gardos Hill. I cropped the photo a little, because. a thick cable hangs on the left and spoils all the raspberries

2. Zemun embankment. Long, several kilometers long promenade along the Danube. On the one hand - the old and new Zemun, on the other - the river and "alloys" - platforms installed on the water with restaurants and bars. In summer, a pontoon bridge is thrown across the Danube, and you can go through it to the Big Military Island with a beach and camping.

And no "Neva, clad in granite", everything is very casual and close to nature. You sit on the terrace of the cafe and watch how the river runs endlessly, fish splash, water snakes wriggle, and birds hover over all this living creatures and try to devour it.

By the way, about the birds: dozens of shameless swans graze in the northern part of the embankment. They stray into organized groups and beg food from passers-by. They admire the birds, feed them from their hands and take pictures. But beware: your mimimometer can go off scale, and the swan can bite your finger.

HIDDEN

It was very, very difficult for me to single out just a couple of unusual facts about Zemun, because he is literally stuffed with raisins, like a bun. I'll try to pick out the two sweetest ones:

Lagums - underground dips

You have already understood that Belgrade is a two-level city, and that its underground part is not much smaller than the heavenly one. Zemun, of course, is no exception: under its pavements doze lagumi- failures, voids, caves and passages. Not to be confused with lagoons!


Underground Zemun. Photo: undergrad.rs

Some of the catacombs were dug by the Romans or Austrians, some by Mother Nature. Some lagums are still unexplored and can be dangerous. So, in 1988, three streets of Zemun almost whistled into a lagum with an area of ​​440 square meters. The situation was saved only by an emergency pumping of voids with concrete.

But this story is scary (although it ended, fortunately, safely). But the romantic story took place in the middle of the 20th century, and it is connected with the lagums under the abandoned Vukoychich villa (now “Villa Dunav”):


Photo: viladunav.com

In the 30s, a wealthy merchant named Vukoychich built a house on the banks of the Danube - as it turned out, right above the lagums. Later, he found an excellent use: he opened a semi-legal weaving factory and an illegal winery there.

When the communists came for Vukoychich after World War II, he asked them to let him dress like a human being before his arrest. The officers generously agreed to wait for him at the door, but the merchant was in no hurry to leave.

The officers broke into the house - and inside there was only a draft, laughing maliciously. In one of the walls, a passage was found secret corridor that led to the river bank. There lay their dead colleague, and next to him were pieces of rope.

Vukoychich prepared a boat for the retreat in advance, escaped and left for Brazil, where there are many wild Abyssians. From there, as legend has it, every year he sent postcards to "the one who lives in my house."

The villa was turned into a restaurant "Danube" (Dunav), but then it fell into disrepair. Now the building belongs to an enthusiast who dreams of restoring it one day.

Staircase Kalvarice

128 steps in the Zemun (Belgrade) region of Kalvaria for a long time they were ordinary gray slabs. The tourist did not walk on them, did not click the shutter of the camera. All that was left for the stairs was to pour down on the city with an inaudible lonely groan.

But in 2016, a group of young people from Zemun, led by Nenad Hegedish, decided to breathe life into the stairs. For six months they knocked on the thresholds of the administration, finally received permission, pounced on the stairs in a creative impulse and turned it into another unusual landmark of Belgrade.

The guys collected funds for materials themselves; they themselves scrubbed the steps with brushes and painted them, installed garbage cans and an information board.

After 3 weeks, 128 names of famous Serbian writers, artists, scientists, athletes and politicians who ever lived or worked in Zemun flaunted on the steps.

The updated staircase was given a hybrid name - Calvarice(name of district Kalvarija + degree - steps). Now, of course, she is still crumbling, but she is already doing it cheerfully and not in splendid isolation: the tourist has actively popped into the area.

KNOWN

Belgrade Topchider and Koshutnyak are like parks in Pushkin and Pavlovsk near St. Petersburg. They are close, but they are different from each other.

Topchider is a respectable little park, cut in the French fashion, with symmetrical flower beds and lawns, sculptures and a strict church.

The townspeople along Topchider are marching sedately and calmly. Brides drag grooms to be photographed on the bridges. Children drag their mothers for a ride in a carriage drawn by phlegmatic ponies. Mothers try to drag their husbands away from their beer glasses at a nearby restaurant.

The famous landmark of Topcider (and Belgrade) - Palace of Prince Miloš Obrenović (Konak of Prince Milos) built in the 19th century. You can visit it for a small fee.

In front of the palace, sighing heavily in the wind, grows burly old plane tree.

The plane tree is already over 160 years old, and it cannot keep its branches on its own. Therefore, the Serbs carefully presented the tree with 17 metal crutches. The “waist” of the sycamore tree is 7.5 meters, but it does not care about the thickness, professes a stem-positive and only increases kilograms of wood to the delight of Belgrade residents.

Neighborhood giant park Koshutnyak- this is a landscape informal, 330 hectares of slightly combed botanical diversity.

There are no flowerbeds and palaces here, but there is a very beautiful, noble, thinned forest. In autumn, it turns into such colors that the air gets stuck in the lungs and agrees to come out only in the form of an enthusiastic squeak.

However, in the park Koshutnyake is good at any time of the year. You can walk, barbecue, play tennis and football, run along the new spring track, swim in outdoor and indoor pools, work out on outdoor fitness equipment and just enjoy forest therapy: here there is a feeling that the city is far away and not true.

HIDDEN

The undeservedly forgotten part of the Topchider Park is hidden behind tram tracks, wasteland and a rock. This quarry "Mashin Maidan" And Summer Topchider scene.

Until the 20s of the last century, stone was mined here for the construction of Belgrade villas, and the name of the quarry was named after the owner - Masha Dimic. In 1947, the Yugoslavs ennobled the abandoned quarry with the construction of the Summer Theater Stage, trying to decorate it in a medieval style.


Enchanted dragon cave gate in medieval Britain? – No, a stylized door in the Topcider Quarry in Belgrade

For the first time in Yugoslavia, the opera Aida was staged on the Summer Stage, and at the best of times 2,000 spectators came to watch the performances.

Due to unclear circumstances, the stage was no longer taken care of ... Nowadays, its only visitors are rock climbers, cats and lizards. And bored teenagers, of course.

Teddy bear and turtle

The city administration has been planning to revive the theater in the quarry for a long time, but still cannot solve the problems either with the owners or with the tenants in this place. I keep my fingers crossed and in the forefront I will run for tickets if the stage can still be revived.

You can get to the Summer Stage and the Quarry Machine by tram number 3. Get off at the stop "Topciderska Pozornitsa", follow the sign to the restaurant "Topciderats" and go through the courtyard of the restaurant. The waiters will only nod affably to you, even if you will not have dinner with them - you are not the first, and you are not the last to stomp to the Topchider stage.


In the photo, there is NOT a passage to the stage, it is on the other side. It's just a cool arch in the walls of the quarry.

Inconspicuous places of Koshutniak

As for Koshutnyak, there are quite a few little-known places that seem to be in plain sight, but somehow escape the eye. For example, this small fenced piece of land in the depths of the park - the place of the murder of Prince Mikhail Obrenovich(the one whose monument stands on Republic Square in the center of Belgrade).


The place where the prince was killed. A commemorative plaque is attached to the back of the fence.

Or Khajduchka chesma - well-maintained by no one knows who and no one knows when. But he became famous for the fact that the most outrageous rock concerts in Yugoslavia were held near him with tens of thousands of listeners (hmm, how did they all fit there?).

In the upper part of Kosutniak, on the border with the urban area, stands sad marble pyramid, which is protected from final disintegration only by a reinforcing exoskeleton.


I could not decipher the inscription on the pyramid (except for the word HELDEN - “heroes”)

This is the main monument devastated German cemetery beginning of the 20th century. During the First World War, the Germans began to advance on Belgrade. The Serbs then accomplished a real feat: 39 people fought with an entire regiment for two days and died on the battlefield, taking 200 German souls with them.

The German field marshal was so impressed by the courage of the Serbs that he ordered them to be buried along with the Germans and erected a monument to the heroes of both countries. This is probably the only cemetery in the world where the enemies were given the same honors as their soldiers.


The inscription on the Serbian plate: "Serbian heroes rest here." On a German plate: "Cemetery of German heroes".

When the Second World War broke out, the Germans, now Nazis, began to bury their fallen to their predecessors on Koshutnyak. After the liberation of Belgrade, the Yugoslav command gave the order to clear the country of traces of occupation - and like a hurricane swept through the cemetery. Everything that the army did not destroy was stolen by the townspeople: gravestones were perfect for arranging their houses and courtyards.

As a result of such cleansing, there was literally no stone left on the stone from the cemetery, and it quietly overgrown with weeds until Helmut Kohl paid a visit here in 1985. After that, the grass was leveled, and at least it became possible to approach the slabs. In 2014, the Serbian authorities came up with a restoration plan, for which they offered to allocate as much as 40 million dinars. In 2018, however, the cemetery looks like the photos above.

Let's get away from this gloomy topic. Memento, of course, mori, but still carpe diem. There are places with much more positive energy in Kosutniak Park. For example, cafe "Aleksandar-club" with an unusual view of Belgrade.


Photo: beowiki.com

It is located on a hill from which a short gentle ski slope descends ( ski stasis). Just a few years ago, when global warming was not yet so rampant over the Balkans, whole families rode here merrily.

Now the climate no longer allows such fun, so now in winter families warm themselves by the fireplace, drinking mulled wine behind the large glasses of the Aleksandar Club, and in summer they sit on its spacious open area.

11) Aeronautics Museum

KNOWN

Right next to the Belgrade airport, a large puck-shaped building gleams in the sun, resembling a UFO on a coaster. This Aeronautics Museum, another Belgrade attraction, where for 600 dinars you can see and touch a unique collection of aircraft from different times and peoples.


Photo: Dungodung / Wikimedia Commons

In total, the museum has collected more than 200 exhibits, of which 60 are shown to visitors. Among the latter, for example:

  • a copy of the first touching Serbian airplane Sarich-1 (knocked together in 1910 from wood and fabric),
  • Oluy-11 - the first armed Serbian aircraft,
  • famous military aircraft of the Second World War: Spitfire, Yak-3, Il-2, Messerschmitt Me-109, and I list them so importantly, as if I understand aviation technology.

HIDDEN

Looking at the elegant attack aircraft and helicopters, visitors do not pay attention to the black, twisted pieces of metal in one of the windows. And these pieces are of great importance for the Serbs.


Remains of the Night Falcon. Photo: Marko-M / Wikimedia Commons

In 1999, during the bombing of Yugoslavia by NATO forces, the American government incited its "Night Falcon". It was the most famous, much-lauded F-117A stealth fighter, and was considered invincible until the invasion of the Balkan skies.

However, by some miracle, the locals found him and shot him down with the help of, presumably, a Soviet rocket launcher (the pilot managed to eject, if anything). After that, the Serbs were seized by a short desperate fun, they hastily printed posters with a photo of a fighter and a joke: “Sorry, we didn’t know that he was invisible,” and the remains of the aircraft were given to the Museum of Aeronautics.

The administration of the museum put a part of the mortal carcass of the Falcon on display, and hoarded the other fragments in order to sell them piece by piece to eminent foreigners and ordinary visitors. What to do - extra money will not interfere with the museum.

12) Mount Avala and TV tower

KNOWN

Millions of years ago, in the center of Serbia, a volcano was diligently puffing. The years took their toll, it went out, and now it's a normal Mount Avala 511 meters high, located 16 kilometers from the center of the capital.

Avala is one of the most famous sights of Belgrade; her silhouette crowned with a needle TV towers, recognizable from afar and at any time of the day (the tower is effectively illuminated at night).

The 200-meter TV tower is already in its second incarnation: the first one was destroyed by NATO bombs in 1999. For 300 dinars from the nose, you can climb to the round observation deck at the top and, fighting with a rather strong wind, look at Belgrade and its surroundings. And from our window whole Serbia visible.

A floor above is a small cafe where you can drink coffee with the same views, but without the participation of the wind.

The second "peak" of Avala is imprinted with a monumental Monument to an unknown hero the authorship of the Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic. The mausoleum is dedicated to the soldiers who died in the First World War.


Mausoleum-monument to an unknown hero. Photo: Mikhailo-Jovanović / Wikimedia Commons

In addition, there are a couple of cafes and a barbecue place on the tops of the mountain - Belgrade people love to come here on weekends to relax in nature and have a barbecue. And the sides and foot of Avala is a dense forest with dozens of hiking trails - I don’t want to walk.

In season, a tourist bus runs directly to the top from the center of Belgrade; the rest of the time, the usual one goes to the foot.

HIDDEN

At the top of Avala, there used to be an ancient and beautiful fortress Zhrnov (or Zhrnovan), and the mountain itself was called the same. The first fortifications were built here by the Romans, then the Serbs erected a serious citadel on that foundation, and the Turks, having recaptured it from the latter, further expanded and strengthened the castle.


So pastoral once looked the top of Mount Avala. Image: "Zrnov, Serbian Avalon" - Radovan Damjanovic

Over time, the fortress was abandoned, and it began to collapse, but still had every chance to survive until the beginning of the era of tourism. Just imagine what a significant landmark of Belgrade it could become.


Ruins of the Zhrnov fortress on Avala. Drawing by Felix Kanitz / Wikimedia Commons

But in 1934, for some unknown reason, the King of Yugoslavia Alexander I Karageorgievich gave the order to blow up Zhrnov, and to provide the vacant site to the imagination of the sculptor Mestrovic.

Not a piece, not a lump, not a log of the old fortress was left. Why the king needed to destroy such a valuable object is still not known. Historians put forward different theories:

  • Alexander might have thought that the fortress was a Turkish legacy. Then undermining Zhrnov relies on some kind of patriotic logic.
  • on the contrary, Alexander was an ardent supporter of "Yugoslavism" - the idea of ​​​​the superiority of the community of the Balkan peoples over one individual. And Zhrnov was a symbol of "Serbism" and opposed the ideas of the king.
  • King Alexander I and the sculptor Ivan Meštrović were freemasons, and "sacrificing Zhrnov" was their cunning plan. Avala is a pyramid-shaped mountain (a Masonic symbol), the king came to lay the first stone in the foundation of a new monument with a silver hammer in his hand (symbol), the mausoleum itself is also a pyramid, a copy of the tomb of King Cyrus in Iran, and around it is also full of incomprehensible symbols.

A view of the Zhrnov, which has not yet been sacrificed. Cover of the book "Zrnov, Serbian Avalon" by Radovan Damjanovic

The construction of the Monument to the Unknown Hero was, of course, necessary. The mausoleum with sculptures of women in traditional clothes of different Balkan peoples symbolized the unity of Yugoslavia. But because of him, the Serbs lost a very ancient and beautiful castle ...

So, these were the 12 main attractions of Belgrade. After looking at their photos and reading the description, decide for yourself who you join - to Belgradophiles or Belgradephobes. And come - it's better to see once than to read a hundred times.

- My God! What a small Vienna! - Glafira Semyonovna was surprised, looking out the window of the carriage at the places passing by. - Just now, in the carriage, a brunette with glasses said that Belgrade is a small Vienna. It doesn't look like Vienna at all! Even our Belgrade does not look like our Tver.

1897, Leikin N.A., “A humorous description of the journey of the Ivanovs through the Slavic lands to Constantinople”

Belgrade Attractions - Short List

Finally, a short list of the main attractions of Belgrade with their secrets:

1) Fortress on Kalemegdan

  • eared uncles
  • twin fisherman
  • underground passages and rooms

2) Street of Prince Michael

  • "Masonic" pyramid

3) Republic Square and the prince on horseback

  • ominous istanbul gate
  • monument to a prince without a hat, but with six cities

4) Skadar street

  • portraits of a fortune teller and a drummer

5) Hotel Moscow

  • pumps
  • Gestapo
  • camels

6) Parliament building

  • Batal Jamiya Mosque
  • observation tower from Macedonia
  • Baron Wrangel and the shawl of Tsarevich Alexei
  • tashmaydan caves

8) Temple of St. Sava

  • golden crypt

9) Old Zemun

  • underground "lagums" and escape to Brazil
  • multicolored staircase

10) Topchider and Koshutnyak parks

  • quarry and summer scene
  • the place of the murder of the prince and the Gaidutsky spring
  • ruined German cemetery
  • cafe with a unique view of the city

11) Aeronautics Museum

  • seen and shot down invisible fighter

12) Mount Avala and TV tower

  • mysteriously blown up fortress Zhrnov

Today we talk about must-see places in Belgrade, as well as what you should definitely try in the capital of Serbia.

Belgrade.

1. The first thing to do in Belgrade is to visit the pedestrian Knyaz Mikhailov street, which connects the city center with the Kalemegdan fortress. The street is full of restaurants, cafes, shops and other interesting places.

On Mikhailova street is also located Belgrade Meredian.

2. Promenade along the banks of the Sava River in the Kalemegdan park starts from Mikhailova street and ends at the fortress. The promenade has existed since the end of the 19th century, when the first pine trees were planted on the hill near the river. During archaeological excavations, traces of a Roman military camp and streets with Roman buildings were found.

3. The promenade is followed by Kalemegdan fortress around which you can walk for a long time. There is also a military museum in the fortress, and from a height there is an excellent view of the Sava River.

4. The fortress is also located Monument to the Winner, erected in 1928 as a memorial to Serbia's victory over the Ottoman Empire and Austria-Hungary.

History of Serbia.

5. To learn more about Serbian history and architecture, it is worth getting acquainted with the monuments that testify to the Turkish presence in Serbia. One of them - Mausoleum of Sheikh Mustafa Pasha, erected in 1783.

6. To learn more about Serbian folk culture, visit ethnographical museum: a three-story building houses a huge collection of costumes and tools.

7. You can learn the most about the history of the 20th century in the Museum of Yugoslav History, also known as Tito Museum. The museum is located outside the city center, it is quite large.

One of the most interesting exhibits is a collection of gifts made for Tito.

Tito himself is also buried here. 208 delegations from 128 countries came to his funeral.

8. Knowledge of Serbian history would not be complete without the era of the Balkan wars and bombings. There are still a lot of buildings in the city center that were destroyed as a result of the bombings, which are standing either in order not to forget about the horrors of the war, or because the state simply does not have money for the final destruction of these buildings.

9. Perhaps the main reason for the national pride of the Serbs is in Nikola Tesla Museum. According to the museum's description, Tesla is a Serbian-American explorer, although many other countries claim to have Tesla's name in their pantheon of national heroes. For example, Croatia has the right to do this, because Tesla was born and went to school in the modern territory of this country. Nevertheless, Tesla's ashes are located in Belgrade, in the museum.

The visit to the museum also includes a guided tour of Tesla's life and work. Also, as part of each tour, interesting interactive experiments are conducted here, so we highly recommend visiting the museum.
10. You can relax after a long walk in one of the parks, for example, in the student park, located between the university and the ethnographic museum.

What to buy or bring from Belgrade.

11. Belgrade may not be the most famous place for shopping, but everyone highly recommends it. swap meet. There are several of them in Belgrade, the most famous is Buvljak or Otvoreni Trzni Centar working on Sundays.

12. If you haven't tried Serbian coffee, you haven't been to Belgrade. In addition to Western americanos and espressos, Serbian cafes called kafans, offer homemade (or Turkish) strong coffee, as well as instant, but very tasty "nees cafe". The latter is served cold and hot, cold variations are especially numerous in summer.

13. You should definitely try different Serbian food: desserts, meat, vegetables. We recommend the traditional dry pita with nuts and cherries, vegetable ajvar, cevapcici and meat splash. Restaurant Kolorats on the Mikhailova, 46 Most of all I liked their traditional dishes.
14. Don't forget drinks (not just coffee!). In addition to the Serbian beer Jelen, be sure to try brandy from plum, apricot and quince (these are all different drinks), as well as bitter leaf tincture.

15. And for dessert, go to one of the oldest sweets shop in Belgrade, Bonbonerie in Savamala, where you can buy traditional Serbian sweets and Turkish delight.

  1. How to do everything and what to see in Belgrade in 1 day, but here a week is not enough, but everything is in order. The sun woke us up in the morning. Serbian writer Dusan Radovich wrote - if you are lucky enough to wake up in Belgrade, then demanding more from fate is impudence. Like this!

    I read something about Belgrade, the reviews of tourists are very different. Someone falls in love with this city, and someone does not understand it and is disappointed. I will try to tell my own story about Belgrade, about the sights, I write reviews based on notes made on the road.

    There was not even a hint of yesterday's rain, everything was dry. Early in the morning we leave the house to buy fresh pastries for breakfast in the nearest bakery.

    Graffiti along the street

    On the street, we immediately felt the smell of coffee, Serbs love coffee. We go to Pekara, it is around the corner. Pekara is a Serbian bakery. They are open in the morning, from about 6-7 in the morning until late in the evening. Pastries are always fresh and tasty, you can drink coffee, a cup is about 1€ on average. The price of baking is not high. Three coffees and four large types of pastries cost about three hundred rubles with our money. I heard that many Serbs start their day in a bakery and that there are many of these establishments. But that there are so many, small and large, honestly, I did not expect. The time is around 7 am. Let's start the morning in Serbian. We drink coffee in the nearest bakery, buy pastries, go up to the apartments and again drink coffee with pastries. Local Serbs joke that bakers are a place of power for them. The sales lady at the bakery was very attentive and accommodating. I don't know if it was because we were Russians (she asked where we were from). Or it's just the smile and goodwill inherent in the Serbs, but it was nice. And as I read, local residents ran into the bakery one after another before the start of the working day, an old grandfather came with a stick, he really barely walks, but he still bought his bun in the morning.

    The morning has begun. We knew that the day would be at our disposal. In fact, there are options for what you can see in Belgrade for at least ten days. Among the reviews, many routes from the category of what to see in Belgrade in 1 day are related to the fact that people make a transfer in Belgrade and fly further, often to Greece. This is a good option to see the city, or rather its central part. It is in the central part that the main top places are located. There is a shuttle from the airport directly to the center, very convenient.

    Belgrade Airport is named after Nikola Tesla. Nikola Tesla is a Serb, although he was born on the territory of modern, then part of Austria-Hungary. The image of the scientist is on Serbian money. In Belgrade there is a museum of Nikola Tesla, where they demonstrate various achievements of the scientist, his personal belongings and documents.

    We are in Belgrade not by plane, we are by car, and we live in the center. Again, I will say that there are many difficulties and troubles when traveling by car. But there are many benefits. For me, there are more benefits. Already at the entrance to Belgrade from the side of the New Town, we saw the city itself, houses, residents and part of the sights. We drove through the city to the apartments, examined everything around, got the impression from the picture. You won't see it on foot. From the car they photographed the Moscow Hotel on Teraziye Square. A hotel with elements of luxury, with live music at breakfast, with famous guests.

    Today I did not let my "swallow" get bored, took her from the parking lot, and we went to the first point of our program - What to see in Belgrade in 1 full day - the remote Zemun region. Reviews about Zemun Belgrade are often written by those who include a tour of the area in the program of the second day in Belgrade. Since it is not located in the city center at all. But we're in a car, we don't care. So, we are going to Zemun.

    Zemun Belgrade, visit review

    Zemun is a district of the Serbian capital, located on its outskirts, on the other side of the Danube. The Danube is called the paradise river. It is believed that the first settlements appeared here almost in the Stone Age. For a long time the Romans ruled here, then the Hungarians came. Sadly, the Hungarians then destroyed a lot of things in Belgrade itself and built protective walls around Zemun from the stones of the destroyed buildings. And in such proximity there were two cities. Power has clearly changed. Zemun was under the Hungarians for a long time, then under the Austro-Hungarians, for some time both Serbs and Turks owned it. And only in 1918, Zemun became part of Belgrade, when Austria-Hungary collapsed, and the small village became part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia.

    Zemun Belgrade, what to see?

    Zemun differs from the hustle and bustle of the capital, the streets here are narrow, the houses are small, everything is so compact. We drove past the hotel Yugoslavia, somewhere in this part of the city there is a Russian-Serbian friendship society, as evidenced by numerous graffiti.

    There is a lot of graffiti in Belgrade: inscriptions, people, A lot of patriotic type - we pray to God for Serbia. Somewhere in new areas in Belgrade there is a very fresh graffiti - to the murdered commander of the Donbass Sparta Motorola. I did not find the address on the Internet, there is a photo.


    There is also Oleg Peshkov...

    In general, Serbs love graffiti, they express solidarity with Russia with this pattern, but let's get back to the tourist program of our trip...

    At the entrance to Zemun, we see such a wagon ...

    Parking a car in a public parking lot in Zemun was not so easy, a burning board showed "0" free spaces. We wandered around a little and found a parking lot. It is opposite the central parking lot on the embankment right at the beginning of a narrow street. Officially - parking for restaurant guests, but you can park the car for two or three hours without problems, payment is understandable in cash to the security guard.

    We move along the narrow streets of Zemun up to the Gardosh tower. A local resident suggested the way to it, and in parting shook hands and said - Russia, comrade!



  2. Zemun Belgrade, Gardos Tower

    The Gardos Tower is not a "Serbian" attraction at all. It was built by the Hungarians in honor of their millennium (millennium) of statehood in 1896. The Hungarians dedicated both Andrássy Avenue and the Heroes' Square included in the list to this event. In architectural style, the tower is a mix of different styles. The main thing is that it has an observation deck. The Gardosh Tower is located on the hill of the same name, you climb smoothly up the cobbled streets to it. Already from the hill the views are excellent.

    But you need to climb the tower, the views are even better there. The observation deck is open from 9 am to 5 pm. We buy three adult tickets for 200 dinars, free for schoolchildren. We go up the stairs. And here they are - views of Zemun, Danube, Belgrade.








  3. Many people leave commemorative inscriptions on the brick walls of the tower. Your obedient servant also scribbled something, dedicated to all members of the forum:

    Narrow streets scatter in different directions from the Gardosh tower, some of them are not paved, but covered with paving stones. Footwear when hiking is the main thing, remember. We walk past one-story houses, people live in them, something is rented out as "chambers", there are small cafes. We notice a very funny sign:


    I see cars like this.

    Flea shops...

    Sort of a well...

    Zemun Belgrade, where to eat?

    We reached the Danube embankment, in one of the restaurants we take a break for a drink. And even though it’s already lunch time, I don’t feel like eating at all, it’s very hot outside. We monitored the topic about Zemun Belgrade, where you can eat well and inexpensively, but we didn’t feel like eating at all. Or from the heat, or from the morning Serbian hearty pastries. Options to eat in Zemun are as follows - go to the Danube embankment, and then go along it. And here you choose what you want. Bars offer a menu with drinks, there are pastry shops (Serbian sweeteners), many different cafes and restaurants. Prices are about the same, plus or minus.

    Zemun Belgrade embankment




  4. On the Zemun embankment, we see such an uncle, photos of famous people hang with a suitcase, someone will throw a pretty penny, we threw it.

    Again we notice familiar silhouettes...

    Zemun Belgrade, how to get there?

    It was possible to go to Zemun from the center of Belgrade by public transport, it is well developed in Belgrade. Drive twenty minutes. You can also take a taxi. They say that a taxi in Serbia is not expensive, I can’t say, I haven’t tried it. We went by car. By car, everything is simple - we fill in the coordinates in the navigator. Any institution on Gospodarska street is possible, this is the main street of Zemun. You can walk to Zemun, especially in good weather. The fact is that walking along the embankment like this, you can walk from Zemun to the center of Belgrade, it will be several kilometers, across the Brankov bridge. From the center of Belgrade to Zemun, both locals and tourists, as an option, travel by bike. On the waterfront there is a bike rental point, about 500 dinars per day.

    We leave Zemun and head back to a place in Belgrade that is absolutely not to be missed. This is the Temple of Saint Sava in Belgrade. We drove up to the temple, drove around it from all sides several times and realized that we could not park the car anywhere near. The parking lots are packed to capacity. Having twisted, we found a parking lot twenty minutes walk from the cathedral. And if it were not so hot, it would have been a very pleasant walk along the central streets of the Serbian capital. And so - we are moving to the temple in the shade of trees, the sun is at its zenith +35.

    Church of Saint Sava in Belgrade

    The Temple of St. Sava in Belgrade was built in the Byzantine style with the addition of medieval Serbian details, its external architecture is similar to the Sofia Cathedral in Istanbul. The temple bears the name of Savva, the son of the founder of Serbia, Stefan Neman. Savva became interested in religion from his youth, made a pilgrimage to the Greek Athos, lived there for a long time. The main task of St. Sava considered the unification of the Balkan peoples, he became the first Serbian bishop. After the death of the bishop, the Serbs kept his relics, and the Turks who later came to Serbian territories publicly burned the relics of the Christian saint at the site where the Church of St. Sava now stands. The cathedral is huge, 70 meters high, it can accommodate up to ten thousand people at the same time. The Church of St. Sava (in Serbian it is still not a cathedral, but a temple) and our Cathedral of Christ the Savior are considered the largest Christian churches in Europe.

    More than a hundred years have passed since the beginning of construction in 1894. Finishing work inside the temple is ongoing. Such a long period of construction and decoration of the church is associated with various events that took place in the country and prevented their completion. Before the Second World War, the walls were ready, but the war stopped the construction, and after that, a garage was placed in an unfinished building, political currents were atheistic. They wanted to finish building and place the House of Culture here. And in the late 80s of the last century, as soon as they decided to complete the temple, military conflicts began in the Balkans, there was no time for that. Serbs believe that the completion of all construction and finishing work in the Temple of St. Sava will be the time for the beginning of a long peaceful history of Serbia.

    At the entrance to the temple are the relics of St. Sava, one by one people come up and venerate them. There are candles at the entrance, you can take them freely, but there is also a sign with the price of each candle.




  5. Around the church there is a park, a little further - fountains, we stood a little at the fountains, it's so nice to freshen up in the heat. And eat Serbian ice cream. It is delicious here, which is understandable - milk and dairy products are delicious here too. There is one peculiarity - an ice cream man in Belgrade, when selling, unwraps (opens the wrapper) ice cream, with your consent, of course.

    I forgot to write that on the way to Zemun we ate the famous Maurice Ace ice cream, the cafe of the same name is located on Mikhail Pupin Street on the side of new Belgrade, but there is also in the old part of the city. Ice cream is on the list of the best ice cream in the world. The founder of the company, Moritz Fried, is originally from Austria, he rode a bicycle to Belgrade with a tour, and then returned and created an ice cream company here. Ice cream is very tasty. Moritz Fried was right when he drew attention to how delicious ice cream is obtained from Serbian natural products. Ice cream is made in Serbia exclusively from local products. The price of a serving is 140 dinars.

    The next point on our way is Tashmaydan Park. We walk to it in the opposite direction. Tashmaydan is a park zone. Previously, this place was a quarry, where the Romans mined stones for the construction of urban structures. Now there is a public park with trees, benches, walking paths. I don’t know what this is connected with, but the reconstruction of the park in 2011 was carried out with the support of the Azerbaijani government, there is even a monument to the Azerbaijani president here. And here they are - monuments to the victims of the NATO bombings:

    This is a famous monument to the children who died during the bombing in Belgrade, the photo is not mine, I can’t find something ...

    Near the Tashmaydan park there is a very beautiful church of St. Mark.

    But right behind the Church of St. Mark is a small church - the Russian Church of the Holy Trinity. The temple was built in 1924 at the expense of Russian emigrants in the style of Pskov-Novgorod architecture with a handful of Russian soil at the base. The Church keeps icons that were brought by emigrants from Russia at the beginning of the 20th century, because they left with their whole families and took the most expensive. There is also a piece of a handkerchief of Tsarevich Alexei, son of Nicholas II.

  6. Wrangel's grave in Belgrade

    Immediately from the entrance to the right is the grave of Pyotr Wrangel, one of those who were a prominent representative of the white movement in Russia. Wrangel died in Brussels in 1928 from tuberculosis and bequeathed to be buried in fraternal Serbia. As soon as I took out the camera, they made a remark to me and pointed to the sign - you can’t take pictures.
    The photo is also not mine, I was directly forbidden to take it ...


    At the entrance to the church there is a memorial plaque with a list of Russians who contributed to the existence of the church and helped the Serbian people to defend their freedom. Services in the church are held in two languages ​​- Russian and Serbian. In a church shop nearby, they bought a small icon as a keepsake.

    During the NATO bombing of Belgrade, the church building was damaged. Debris from the building of the television center scattered onto the roof, it is located a hundred meters from the church.

    In 1999, Belgrade was bombed for seventy-eight days, from March to June. During air raids by NATO aviation, more explosives were dropped on the cities of Serbia than on the Japanese Hiroshima in 1945. NATO aircraft made 37,000 sorties. They dropped more than two tens of thousands of bombs on Serbia, including cluster bombs. Bombs containing "depleted" uranium were used. Residential buildings, schools, kindergartens, offices, churches, bridges were damaged, bombs hit buses and trains. The infrastructure has suffered enormous damage.

    One of the targets of the NATO airstrikes in Belgrade was the Belgrade Television Centre. Sixteen people died from the raid, many were injured. Now this building is still standing destroyed, as a reminder.

    And next to it is a monument to the victims of this strike, called "For what?":

    We return to the parking lot for the car, went to the supermarket on the way to buy something for tomorrow. We also managed to buy watermelon at the local market. Watermelon sellers proudly showed us the prize they had received for "sweetness" of watermelons. That's why we bought from them. Tomorrow morning according to the plan - early rise, breakfast and a long interesting road along the route Belgrade Serbia -. At the same time, we will transit another country - the former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia.

    Where to eat tasty and cheap in Belgrade?

    In Belgrade, almost everywhere to eat is not very expensive. You can have a bite to eat in a bakery, eat some burek and drink a cup of coffee, it's quite inexpensive, tasty and satisfying. And they work late. On the way, walking, we met something like local fast food, they make a grilled cutlet splash in a flatbread with sauces. I haven't tried it, but I read that it's also delicious and not expensive at all. Everyone else says that if you want to save money, you need to go to restaurants and cafes away from the tourist streets, this is also understandable.

    On this day, we had a small family occasion to allow ourselves to have a good drink and snack. We had two options for dinner in Belgrade. Both are iconic.

    The first is dinner at the "Sign of Nutrition" cafe on Kralya Petra Street. Kafana "Sign of nutrition" is considered by many as a landmark of Belgrade. It is located in the center. It is famous for the fact that in the building, built in 1823, there has always been a restaurant of Serbian cuisine, but the names of the restaurant, as well as the owners, were different. And at the very end of the nineteenth century, the restaurant was given a name, or rather, they did not give a name, but instead of a name they put a question mark. So there is a question mark ("sign of food" in Serbian) in the title. The restaurant has two halls, there is not much space, the menu is Serbian cuisine. Interestingly, in the hall there is a sign "non-smoking area - in the yard." So - instead of wanting to smoke - go to the yard. On the contrary, go to the yard while we are smoking here. Serbs are heavy smokers, a well-known fact. We left the kafana "Znak pitanya" for the next trip to Belgrade, although we booked a table from yesterday evening, there are dull places in the evening, everything is occupied.

    We decided to go for dinner according to the second option, on Skadarliya Street, especially since it was next to the parking lot.

  7. Belgrade, Skadarliya street

    Skadarlija is called the bohemian quarter of Belgrade. Although in reality it is a short street. But very popular. The name Skadar is the old capital of Serbia. Now this city of Shkoder is located on the territory of modern Albania.

    Until the end of the nineteenth century, gypsies lived on Skadarliya, and she was not bohemian. But nearby, across the road is the National Theater. Actors, artists and other bohemians took a fancy to the local restaurants and gradually made the whole street "their own". An interesting monument to the Serbian artist, poet, playwright Djura Jaksic, he lived in Skadarliya in a small apartment, but did not invite anyone to his place, he was embarrassed by the size of his home. I preferred to sit like this next to the house, chat and drink wine. I know that sometimes a glass of wine is placed next to the monument. It doesn't mean anything, just tradition. Now housing prices in Skadarliya in Belgrade are being compared with prices in American New York.

    We arrived at Skadarliya when it was already dark, we turned on the illumination everywhere, there are many restaurants on the street, simply beautiful buildings, flowers, musicians. At the entrance to Skadarliya, you will be met by a sign with the names of pedestrian historical streets in different cities of Europe, there is also the Parisian Montmartre, the Viennese Grinzing, and the Moscow Old Arbat.

    Around on Skadarliya kafans. Kafana in Serbia is not quite a restaurant or cafe, that is, not quite a food establishment. Here the Serbs enjoy the moment. Relax, don't rush. Here lovers make appointments and business people have lunch, continuing to talk about business. And in the evening, kafans are filled to capacity with visitors, musicians begin to play, the smells of food become even more fragrant. In preparation for the trip, I read a lot about Serbia. I remember how in an interview a Serb was asked the question: “You don’t have such a fuss in Serbia, you sit in your kafans and are not in a hurry. How do you manage to do everything?” And he replied: "But we do not have time!".

    We didn’t have a table booked on Skadarliya, we somehow hoped that there were a lot of restaurants there, all of them were good, they would put us, but it didn’t happen. Despite the weekday, all the tables in the first institution where we were heading, the cafe "Three Sheshira" (Three Hats) were occupied, and the people stood in line at the entrance, waiting for a table to be free.

    In another institution, they offered to sit inside the room, but I didn’t want to sit inside, the evening was warm, and the party outside and the smells of flowers from everywhere were indescribable. Let's look for a veranda.

    Luckily, in the restaurant "Two deer" a table for four on the veranda had just become vacant. We study the menu, ask the waiter for advice. I would call the Serbian language hard because of the many consonants in the words. It looks like Russian in places. We communicated with the Serbs like this - I speak Russian, they answer in Serbian, and everything is clear.

    A little about Serbian cuisine. The cuisine combines the traditions of different countries. She is tasty and nutritious. Serbs do not stand on ceremony in terms of food, they eat well and tastefully. Serbs are meat eaters. Roshtil is grilled meat, the same cutlets splash and their variations. The traditional Serb breakfast is coffee and kafana pastries, not scrambled eggs with beans, bacon or sausages. But in the late afternoon, the kafans are filled.

    So, in an authentic Serbian restaurant, we order authentic Serbian dishes. Chorba soup is a thick meat soup with toasted flour. The soup is very hearty. Either from hunger or from the general atmosphere, we completely forgot that portions in Serbian restaurants are large and the food is hearty.

    Carefully, the portions are simply huge ... Serbian wine is incomparable, but quite expensive, even in the store, I mean red / dry.

    In general, you can already eat this soup. But we drink wine and taste Serbian dishes further. And then there were vegetables, a cheese plate, cutlets - splash and chivapchichi, there was also wine. I also recommend Aivar sauce - this is caviar from vegetables, there are eggplants, paprika and something else. Perfect for meat. In general, we sat well, barely got out from behind the table. But they enjoyed it. And this is the main thing.

    Late in the evening we returned to our apartments for fun, a few photos:
    Rarities...


    Skadarliya street...


    Did I like the city of Belgrade? Definitely yes, the city is unlike any other, it needs to be understood, in my opinion it is as interesting as Budapest, I have not seen so many cafes in any other city, although maybe I got it. Let's come back here again for clarification.

    That's all, friends, tomorrow morning we start to Greece, we continue our route to Halkidiki from Moscow by car. We say to Belgrade - see you, I will definitely come back here.

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