Budget bath: how to get noticeable savings without losing comfort. We build a bath from the foundation to the roof with our own hands: diagrams, photos and videos Watch how baths are made

During the construction of the bath, steps should be taken in stages, building a reliable and warm structure. A reliable foundation is created on which wooden walls are attached. Interior decoration and ceilings are carried out with the use of heaters and with the use of moisture-resistant materials. The roof is covered with insulating layers and equipped with a ventilation outlet.

We build a bath with our own hands - a phased demonstration of construction

The entrance to the bath is equipped on the south side. This is prudent, since in winter snowdrifts from this position accumulate in the smallest amount and melt at an accelerated pace. In order for the room to be illuminated to the maximum by the sun, it is desirable to position the windows from the west.

When a place for the construction of a bath is chosen near a reservoir with clean water, it is advisable to locate the building no further than 20 m from the water body. Thus, you can get a huge supply of water and avoid saving fluid during water procedures.

Bath with a pool

If it is possible to attach a pool, you get a full-fledged bath complex. You can carry out the construction of such a structure with your own hands. A special bowl is purchased at a hardware store, and a separate place is equipped under it. It remains only to supply and drain water. Showing imagination, many owners carry out designer mosaic decoration and equip bright lights that create a fabulous effect at night.

The pool can be placed in a room adjacent to the bath, if you equip a polycarbonate visor or roof in advance, options with glass walls look beautiful. Also, the pool is convenient if it is located in a room adjacent to the steam room. The pool is designed to immediately plunge into cool water after a hot steam bath.

Creating a "cascading pool" is the most fashionable idea at the moment. This is a kind of cascading waterfall, which is found only in natural areas. A system of closed water circulation is created, and the edges of the structure are lined with special stones, which are usually used for alpine slides. To create a real beach atmosphere, you can create a 3D drawing on the walls, which will depict your favorite beach or a beautiful tropical area. At the design stage, it is necessary to provide for a developed power grid, large-scale water sources with the possibility of uninterrupted water supply and drainage.

Bath foundation

To create a quality foundation, you need to choose technically clean components. The mixture is made up of cement, water, sand or gravel. The listed components, except for water, are mixed in a ratio of 1:3:5. The liquid is added gradually with constant stirring until the mixture becomes liquid.

The procedure is shown in the table below.

Procedure	Description
	The construction site is being marked. The location of the outer and inner walls is marked with a cord stretched between strictly vertically stretched stakes.
	It must be deepened based on the height of the foundation with the addition of layers of sand cushion and waterproofing.
	The sand cushion is located 15-20 cm in height. Coarse-grained sand is used to fill this space. An alternative to this material is gravel. It is desirable to create backfill in layers, at each stage wetting the material with water and tamping.
	To do this, the sand cushion is completely leveled. When it dries, you can install a kind of fence in the form of long boards, plywood, or use a special fixed formwork.
	Reinforcing chairs are placed on the inner surface or stones are laid out that are stable enough to withstand the reinforcing bars. You can not create a reinforcing cage directly on the sand, otherwise, when pouring with cement, its lower faces will remain uncovered. Reinforcing bars are purchased. The largest section should be for elements that are driven in like pegs. They serve as the basis for the entire structure. They should be installed on reinforcing chairs on both sides, parallel to the formwork line. Horizontal bars complete the frame. Longitudinal pegs should be fastened with transverse pegs at all intersections by welding parts or fastening with thin wire.
	Immediately after mixing the mixture, it is necessary to pour the foundation. It is advisable to do this in one step, however, with large amounts of work, the first row is formed first, and after a while the second.
	During the filling of the mixture, it is necessary to work in parallel with a deep vibrator. It is needed for the speedy compaction of concrete. If you do not use it, the mixture will settle when it dries, and air bubbles will remain inside, which will make the foundation of the bath less durable.

Foundation type - tape. Longitudinal bottom layer of reinforcement

Brick prices

Video - Foundation for a log house

Water supply in the bath

The water supply system is organized taking into account the basic requirements:

• the possibility of filling water in one structure;
• protection of water from freezing at sub-zero temperatures.

The work of the steam room in several versions should be provided:

1. "Russian" steam room, which maintains a constant supply of wet steam;
2. a sauna where soaring is carried out exclusively with the help of dry steam.

How to find the optimal source of water?

The best option for a bath is an artesian well.

There are sand wells. Their drilling is estimated at a small amount, but you have to install special filters, which is also a costly undertaking.

Before drilling a well, it is necessary to make sure that there are no radioactive substances in the soil. Often a high percentage of radon gas is found in the earth, which is a completely radioactive element that is harmful to health. The study can be ordered from special companies or check information about the territory in the regional fund.

The best and least expensive option is to dig a conventional well.

Once a decision has been made on the method of water supply, the aquifer can be found by observation, by experimentation, or by test drilling. To equip the well, special rings with a thorn-groove system are needed, which can be quickly fastened to each other. This technology ensures that the rings do not move in the horizontal direction. It is advisable to additionally use metal rings to tighten the elements so that the fastening is more reliable.

A bottom filter should be formed at the bottom of the well. For this, stones, crushed stone are used, geotextiles can also be used.

Water from the well is supplied to the bath through the outlet pipe. It should be completely sealed. Bituminous mastic is not suitable for this. It is desirable to perform multi-layer waterproofing, where elements made of silicone, concrete or liquid glass are used.

Work performance technology.

1. The hole is closed with silicone, which is plastered with tile adhesive. It must be 100% resistant to water and frost.
2. The glue dries completely. Then fibrorubber is superimposed on it. This material is usually used to protect the shower from leakage.
3. After this layer has dried, the adhesive must be applied again, but in a greater thickness.
4. Apply plaster with tile adhesive.
5. A day later, the surface is covered with blue clay, on which foam should be laid.
6. Loams make the well more decorative.
7. All of the above actions should be done in the exact order both from the outside and from the inside of the structure.

If you need a silent system, you need to install a submersible pump that goes directly into the well.

A receiver should be connected to the pumping station so that it can be easily used without additional switching on every 3-5 minutes. Also, this device will help normalize the pressure in the system.

Prices for a pumping station

pumping station

Pipe selection

Metal-plastic pipes are considered the most comfortable, but they are often not optimal for a bath. In winter, their gaskets dry out, which can cause a temporary cessation of water supply. Propylene pipes do not corrode, have excellent wear resistance and are equipped with a one-piece construction without additional gaskets.

Water distribution is carried out from the pumping station to the filter structure, tank and collector. A tee is installed inside the well, which serves to carry out a drain tap and a check valve, which is necessary for installing a strainer. Additionally, a mesh-type filter is placed in front of the pump. It is advisable to ensure that this element of the system is designed for at least 30 tons of liquid and has a carbon cartridge.

Most often, baths are made from timber. Logs are a completely natural material, they do not lose their properties over the years, therefore they make the room “breathable”, provide natural thermal insulation with constant air exchange. The room is ventilated automatically, however, a special air outlet is provided without fail, as this is required by building codes.

Log walls are automatic moisture regulators. If the bath is used for its intended purpose almost daily, the walls almost never dry out, so the building always has a slight smell of fresh wood.

It is necessary to choose the most straight logs that do not have defective particles, damage, and the presence of knots is also undesirable, since such material requires additional processing. Before use, the logs are cleaned, then special protective compounds are applied to them, with the help of which the material becomes fire-resistant and not subject to damage by insects.

The strongest species are pine and spruce, which grow in the northern regions. In order for soaring in the bath to be accompanied by a pleasant aroma, you need to build walls of linden. If you need to purchase a tree with a persistent resinous smell, you need to choose a material with a high content of knots or cavities filled with this substance. With constant use of the bath, the resin will flow out, which will affect the aesthetic appearance of the walls. It is advisable to compare the smell of different materials, choose solid elements without cavities with resin, but with a pleasant aroma.

Prices for round logs

rounded log

Construction of a log house "in the paw"

You should choose logs that have an equal thickness. The ends of the paws are marked according to a pre-drawn template. The length of the protruding ends depends on the width of the logs. The bars should be cut off before laying, however, in most cases, for the first crown of the building, the material is left completely solid. The highest quality samples are selected for it, since it is this place that is most exposed to negative factors that can lead the tree to decay.

The sketch has the following designations: 1 – “warm corner” cutting method; 2 - edging; 3 - wooden spike or dowel for attaching adjacent crowns; 4 - cutting (cutting in) wooden liners for tightness of joints; 5 - waterproofing layer (roofing material); 6 - interventional insulation (for example, jute); 7 - the first crown; 8 - foundation or strapping; 9-10 - arrangement of the opening The sketch has the following designations: 1 - method of cutting a "warm corner"; 2 - edging; 3 - wooden spike or dowel for attaching adjacent crowns; 4 - cutting (cutting in) wooden liners for tightness of joints; 5 - waterproofing layer (roofing material); 6 - interventional insulation (for example, jute); 7 - the first crown; 8 - foundation or strapping; 9-10 - arrangement of the opening

The felling of logs is carried out when laying out into two equal shares, which differ in the shape of the cut.

1. Root spike.
2. Insert spike.

Creating a felling template

When creating a template, the following beam fastening scheme is provided:

1. Formation of a small hole.
2. Beam installation.
3. Fastening of both beams.

Cutting in the paw - marking

Video - Log cabin "in the paw"

To give the crowns rigidity, they are fastened with spikes in increments of 1 m. This procedure is necessarily applied to the two highest crowns, which serve as the basis for cutting down the ceiling beams. Nests for spikes are made at a depth of 0.2-0.3 m, while the thickness of these elements is 0.25 cm with a width of 0.6-0.7 cm. When these parameters are met, a height of up to 150 mm is provided.

Video - Fastening logs with dowels

Video - Nagels. Terms of Use and Errors

A seal should be laid between the bars to insulate the structure. Moss, felt or tow is used as a heater. It is installed after the wall structure has been created. To do this, the seal is installed using padding. In the people, this action is called caulking. This procedure should be carried out twice. For the first time after the completion of the construction of the walls, and then a year and a half later, that is, after the shrinkage of the structure.

Video - How to caulk a log house

Timber walls: construction features

Bar walls are rated as the easiest to build. Structural elements must have a section of 150x150, while initially they are made of logs. The shape is given to them by filing. Slabs that are excluded during the preparation of beams should not be thrown away. They are used to equip the floor in the attic.

The bars can be fixed "in the oblo", "in the paw", however, the joints should be strengthened with spikes, placing them in a vertical position.

Stages of cutting walls from timber

1. Cutting out the shape of an angle for attaching to an adjacent structure and making a tenon connection.
2. Cutting a corner on dowels with the participation of plug-in dowels.
3. Fastening of bars when forming a structure on dowels.
4. When using tongue-and-groove beams, the connection is made using plug-in rails.
5. Dowel connection.
6. Fastening the structure on dowels.

Bar prices

Video - Construction of a bath from a bar

Video - Building walls from timber (part 1)

Video - Building from a bar (part 2)

Stages of work in the construction of a bath

The log cabin of the bath should be assembled subject to the correct installation technology of all parts. Only then is its high quality and durability ensured.

Waterproofing is applied to the foundation.

Video - Foundation waterproofing

Log house foundation waterproofing

To protect the lower rims from destruction, a wooden board with a thickness of at least 5 cm and a width of at least 20 cm is placed under them. The tree undergoes an antiseptic procedure. The board is covered with bituminous mastic or special resin on three sides. The exception is the top surface and end parts.

In the photo - a board laid on a foundation under a log house

In the absence of the materials listed above, roofing material should be used. Three sides of the board are covered with it, after which it lies on the waterproofing layer. When there is a loose fit of the board to the waterproofing, it is necessary to level the surface. To do this, all gaps are measured, small pieces of roofing material are cut out under the obtained parameters and laid out on the surface. When laying additional layers, they should be tightly joined so that there are no significant gaps, and protrusions are also unacceptable.

If the roofing material is not used in the structure, it can be replaced by any material for waterproofing, in particular, tow, felt, hemp, while these elements should preferably be pre-cleaned and coated with an antiseptic composition. If all these measures are carried out, the formation of drafts is excluded in the zone of the crowns. Also, the wood will be completely protected from decay.

Thermal insulation should be placed on the lining, which serves as the basis for the first crown. In order for the wood to fit snugly against the lining, it must be planed or trimmed. These measures are carried out only if the quality of the material allows you to clean the edges. When there is a risk of wood decay, the contours should be left intact, only trimming too noticeable bumps.

The second row of logs of the overlay crown is located perpendicular to the first. These logs are higher than the lower ones by 50% of their diameter. The resulting space must be tightly laid with a brick or decorative stone.

Thermal insulation should be laid between the logs, trying to fill all possible gaps. At the end of the work, you need to make sure that there are no places with a draft. So that atmospheric precipitation does not affect the lower part of the bath structure, it is necessary to select a groove between the second and third rows. A drain board is installed in the hole. You can replace it with roofing steel. This material covers the base along its entire length, and should hang down at least 5 cm.

Floor in the bath

Even at a high air temperature in the bath, the space near the floor rarely heats up to more than 30 ° C. The quality of thermal insulation is not of particular importance, however, it should be remembered that a strong temperature contrast should not be allowed.

Recommended flooring materials: fiber mats, cork boards, boards. To organize the constant drying of the floor, it is necessary to raise it on the logs. When you need to fix the flooring on a wide floor, it should be done in several steps, marking out the individual sections in advance.

First, wooden logs are mounted. To do this, pillars of massive brick are pre-installed directly on the base of crushed stone or soil. The logs are laid with an approximate step of 1 m. To create a log, it is advisable to use tongue-and-groove boards.

Floor boards are made from hardwood, must have a width of at least 3 cm.

The floor can be left wooden in all departments, except for the steam room. This room is constantly maintained under the influence of high temperatures and in conditions of high levels of humidity. The best material for flooring is ceramic tiles. To ensure comfortable movement without slipping, it is possible to equip wooden grates, which, after soaring, it is desirable to take out for drying.

A drain is equipped in the place of the greatest slope of the floor so that there is no stagnation of moisture in the room.

When the building is fenced with walls around the perimeter, it is necessary to allocate separate rooms, which should also be securely separated from each other.

For the installation of partitions made of wood, special wooden bars are provided in advance. When the partition is planned between the already laid floor lags, it is mounted anywhere, fixed to the crossbars.

Sometimes partitions are mounted in the opposite direction to the floor beams. In this case, a run is installed on the intended space, which is a reliable basis for the partition.

There are several types of partitions.

1. Single solid boards.
2. Double solid boards.
3. Double with a gap, that is, the possibility of free air circulation.
4. Double with full filling, that is, without drafts.
5. Frame-sheathing.

If the simplest partition design is chosen, they are made from boards 4-5 cm thick and 10-20 cm high. They should be trimmed first. This action can only be performed on one side. The use of boards with a wider diameter is not recommended, because they tend to warp. To guarantee complete blockage of cracks and the possibility of long-term operation, it is necessary to choose a grooved material.

The bars are connected with steep spikes of 10-12 cm. From the height of the boards, the step of their location is calculated, it is optimal to take breaks of less than 1 m. 8 cm

On the walls next to the partition, it is necessary to draw vertical lines and mark them with a cord. To check the evenness of the fasteners, it is advisable to use a plumb line. In addition to the walls, they should subsequently be drawn along the line to the ceiling and 4x4 cm boards should be nailed to them. Then grooves are formed, corresponding in width to the design of the bars.

In front of the place where it is planned to insert boards for the partition, a gap should be left, that is, do not fasten the bars at a distance of 20-30 cm. Only guide wooden structures can be fastened to the beam. Natural shrinkage of the structure should be foreseen in advance. For its maximum compensation, the partitions are measured a few centimeters shorter than the main walls of the bath.

The bars are first placed in the grooves, then move forward until they close. The partition is provided without holes, so fastening should be carried out as tightly as possible, using spikes or quarters.

Skirting boards are nailed down along the perimeter of the space separated by the partition. Small holes are usually formed separating the structural elements. They should not be overlooked. They must be caulked with tow or plaster.

The double partition is made with the connectors left or when they are filled with a material that plays the role of thermal insulation. It is advisable to use mineral wool in any configuration, including in the form of plates.

The thickness of the boards is approximately 2-2.5 cm. With these parameters, the gap between the rows will be about 0.4 cm. The double partition is constructed by alternately assembling the first and second sides. When the creation of gaps is not planned, in parallel with the assembly of the walls, insulation should be laid between each row of beams. The upper edges of the boards are held by inserting them into the grooves. The lower edges are nailed to the boards with long nails.

To save on the construction of partitions, they should be constructed using a frame-sheathing method. To assemble the frame, you can choose from: spikes, cuts or nails. Boards are the main material. The support for the frame is a beam. Alternative fastening is carried out on crossbars when inserting structural elements into the grooves.

The upper edge of the structure should not reach the ceiling by 1-2 cm. The remaining gap should be filled with tow, mixed with a gypsum mortar. You can also use boards that completely cover the joint without leaving gaps. To insert the door frame into the partition, additional boards should be placed nearby, closing the frame canvas.

Video - Partitions in the bath

Creating a bath roof

The ceiling in the bath should be equipped with maximum heat and vapor barrier, since the most humid air always rises and accumulates under the roof.

Boards are mounted as floor beams.

A vapor barrier is laid between the boards.

Vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath with foil

A heater is laid out above the vapor barrier.

The structure is closed with boards laid in a direction perpendicular to the beams.

The gap between the insulation and waterproofing will improve the performance of the insulation “pie”

The ceiling consists of the following elements:

• hemming boards;
• bars that perform the function of beams;
• primary lining;
• hydro and vapor barrier;
• thermal insulation.

When arranging the attic space, the ceiling design is slightly changed. A layer of clay coating about 1-2 cm thick is created on top of the boards. Wood chips can be used as insulation. Its thickness should be impressive, be more than 15 cm, and it should also be pre-mixed with a weak cement mortar. If subsequently too much condensation forms on the ceiling, then the thickness of the insulation is insufficient. It should be increased by applying backfill a second time.

Video - Insulation of the bath ceiling

A wooden floor is constructed with such a sequence of actions.

1. Primary laying of beams.
2. The imposition of cranial bars.
3. Installation of boards. They can be created from low-grade wood, but must first be hammered together.
4. Vapor barrier lining. Usually glassine is used.
5. Heater installation. Recently, mineral wool has become popular.
6. Ceiling board installation.
7. They are stitched up.
8. Parts are fastened with anchors.
9. The final waterproofing is being carried out, which is excellent for roofing.

The beams should be placed no more than 10 cm deep into the structure. The rear wall of the nest forms a gap with an end, the optimal width of which is no more than 3 cm. The inside of the nest is filled with cement mortar.

If the beams rest too heavily on the walls, they should be shortened. The cross section is unacceptable, as sudden actions can lead to cracking of the part. Cut at an acute angle.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

Video - How to make a reliable roof in the bath

Video - Do-it-yourself roof for a bath

How beneficial the bath is, you don’t have to paint for a long time. And not only for physical and mental health. To have a bathhouse on the site is to gain prestige and respect for neighbors. And the opportunity to invite a useful person to take a steam bath will bring direct benefits. Let's be realistic, a lot of important issues are being decided in the bathhouse, and a document is already being signed at the meeting table. There is no need to look for corruption schemes here: after a bath, it brightens in the head, the unnecessary husks are obscured, and the essence of the matter comes to the eyes. Villains, by the way, do not appoint a “shooter” in the bathhouse, the conscience wakes up there.

This article is devoted to the question of how to build a bath with your own hands. Who said that only the powerful of this world have the right to a complete bathing good? But why, you ask, build yourself? The building seems to be unpretentious, in demand. Maybe it's better to order a turnkey?

Demand is everything. In combination with a small circumstance: a bath is not an object of prime necessity or vital. Hence, the contractor's cheat is limited only by the contents of the customer's pocket, as well as for luxury goods. What builders use - the market is the market, they also need to live, and they want better.

Take a look at fig. The bathhouse on the left will cost about $8,000 on a turn-key basis, and the one on the right will cost $23,000-25,000. Impressive? We will modestly keep silent about 2-3-storey baths with pools, billiard rooms, banquet rooms and massage rooms. What if you build it yourself? Self-construction of a bath for 2 compartments 3x4 m from a bar (this is the one on the left) will cost about $ 1800, and 4x6 m log from 3 compartments somewhere in $ 4000-5000. It is impressive, but the difference is not only many times, but also fundamental: if the turnkey amounts do not fit into the average budget, then self-construction is already feasible without an unaffordable consumer loan, because. a mortgage with a lower rate for a bath will not be given now.

The purpose of this article, first of all, is to show that the devil is not as terrible as he is painted. A bath is a serious building, it must meet certain requirements. And the emphasis in the following is on how to satisfy them without mastering complex technologies and without spending excessively. If you know how to cut the board evenly, drill a hole directly, drive in a nail without bending and, after reading the following, believe that building a bath is within your power and means, we will consider our task completed. Therefore, the material is built for a more complete coverage of key points, but due attention is also paid to the features of the technology for building baths from various materials.

Russian or sauna?

The Finns themselves, and doctors too, admit that the Russian bath is superior to the Finnish one. In a Russian bath, you can create perfectly dry steam, like in a sauna, but you won’t be able to “burn” a vigorous steam in the last one. But the sauna has a valuable advantage - it is not very demanding on the design of the bath room with a heat source. A compact electric sauna the size of a wardrobe can be placed in a city apartment, and nothing, there is normal steam there. But the Russian requires a separate bath building and a stove for it. Therefore, further we will talk about the Russian bath, and we will leave the saunas for another occasion.

Ancestor

The original Russian bath consists of 2 sections: a dressing room and a steam room, see fig. on right; sizes - from 2.3x4 to 5x6 m. The fashion for such baths is now being revived, they are called wild baths. Indispensable features of the "wild" Russian bath:

• The foundation is not deepened from natural (also wild) boulders, without a plinth.
• The structure is a log house made of selectively chopped wild logs, i.e. not undergone any technical treatment, except for debarking and drying.
• Construction - without a single nail.
• Caulker - only moss and tow.
• The ceiling is flat (see below).
• Insulation of the floor and ceiling - moss and peat.
• Waterproofing - resin or shoe var.
• Roof - shingle or turf.
• The oven is brick.

It is not difficult to guess what these archaisms are worth in our time. Turnkey wild bath for less than 1 million rubles. - marvel. In addition, it is a fire hazard; peat, moss and wood not impregnated with flame retardants are combustible materials. But then we will see how to build a safe bathhouse on our own cheaper and simpler, not inferior to the original one. Firstly, modern materials and technologies will help; in addition to the traditional tree, unexpected solutions are possible here. Secondly, in the old days, bath stoves were built of brick only for lack of suitable metal ones. In fact, a stainless metal stove with an afterburner, an air convector and a properly arranged sauna heater is better in every way. So, to business. The action plan is:

1. Reconnaissance with surveys - we look at whether it is possible to put a bathhouse on the site, where exactly, what size and layout;
2. The choice of material for construction;
3. Project design and approval;
4. Construction and equipment, from foundation and drain to furnace installation.

Project

The project should be delayed immediately. The procedure for its approval is the same as for other non-residential buildings. However, it is not recommended to start a self-construction and legitimize it later. A bath is not an essential building. If, after its construction, harmful neighbors complained like: “But we have smelly carrots from the garden, how they built a bathhouse!”, Then it will be very problematic and expensive to prove your point. On the other hand, for the same reasons (non-residential, not vital), the dreary walking through the authorities is simplified and facilitated. Based on this, 3 options are possible:

• Order a turnkey project from local designers, i.e. already approved and tied to a place, it will cost up to 5,000 rubles for a small bath. + state duties and fees;
• Designing it yourself is undesirable, not being a builder, you will get confused, and arrogant amateurs are not favored in the bodies;
• Download from the Internet a ready-made sketch, i.e. not tied to the terrain, the project, and bind it to yourself yourself.

The last option is the best if you are not afraid to sit under the cabinets for 5,000 savings. He has, so to speak, a sub-option - to give the downloaded sketch to the designers for binding and design. In this case, the savings are halved or tripled, but walking is for their soul, and it is there like a fish in water. All you have to do is choose a suitable building, estimate its location, make a copy from the homeownership plan and show the designer where the bathhouse will be. However, you should not download the first beautiful 3D picture you like with some schemes, you need to check that the bath project contains at least the following sheets:

1. A floor plan with the necessary sections and an explication (technical description) of the premises, like the one in fig. below;
2. A summary sheet of the required materials, and then keep the receipts for them, so that in which case you can show that it was not built from stolen goods;
3. Recommended type of foundation and its plan.

An important point in a building permit is the consent of the neighbors. This is not an IOU, other laws apply here. A simple piece of paper with a signature as an argument will not work, but if it and other sheets have the stamp “Approved” and a visa, then the conversation with that very neighbor is short: “Do you see the seal on your squiggle? Yes? So you went to your garden to pick carrots.

And one more little remark. It is not necessary to count the nails individually and measure out where to beat according to the project. Builders are well aware that deviation from the project is far from the same as squatter construction. Therefore, having an approved project, more or less experienced developers are building, as long as it looks like it, and then suddenly something will settle down. The number of storeys, the dimensions in the plan, the location of the load-bearing walls (there are already 4 of them in a small bath), the material from which it is built - wood like wood, brick like brick - and the foundation, its type and material should match. The rest, if we are talking about a bath, will no longer be a violation, but a deviation from the project, which can be solved. Any foreman on this topic will tell such stories - you will marvel and laugh.

Note: the question may arise - what kind of liberalism to deviations? The point is in mother earth, they are building something on it, and it is still impossible to predict exactly how it will behave. Therefore, hard-working builders are given free rein so that at their own risk they can decide on the spot, according to the circumstances, how to build it so that it stands.

Location, dimensions, layout

The requirements for the location of the bath on the site are shown in Fig. on right. Of these, when approving, they especially strictly look at the distances to the source of water supply, the house, and the drain from the borders with neighbors. They should be adhered to with a margin, and the priority of water supply is the highest. If, for example, according to local conditions, it is necessary to take a distance from a well or well from 30 m to the nearest sources of pollution (and the bath belongs to these), then we take this or another large value. The same applies to the distances to the neighbors, carrots can really stink from the bath drain.

Other requirements are flexible enough based on local conditions. For example, the distance to the house is taken so that seepage from the bath drain does not wash away the foundation. If the bath is lower on the slope, and the underground runoff is directed from the house to it, then you can keep within 5-7 m, then only according to the results of on-site surveys.

A lot of "creaking" when approving bath projects is caused by the orientation of the entrance not to the south. There is already a medical reason: suddenly the steamed one will come out on a cutting north wind, not for long and before pneumonia. But, say, in Ciscaucasia, the most evil wind in winter is just the south, the so-called. similar to the mountains, and in the wind rose in the north there is a dip, so in this case the orientation of the entrance to the bathhouse can be the opposite of the typical one. Well, it doesn't matter where the window looks. If you want to admire the hatch of the sewage pit when washing - your business.

On an ordinary personal plot, the very possibility of building a bath can be decided by a meter and a half of its size. In such a case, we give informal area standards for 1 wash: 1.5 sq. m of a dressing room and 1 sq. m washing (shower). That is, a fairly comfortable home bath is possible in sizes from 3x4 m. Examples of the layouts of such baths are shown in fig. below, with a steam room separate and combined with a washing room. Their peculiarity is that the front door can be on any of the walls of the dressing room, which facilitates the location of the bath on the site.

On the steam room should linger especially. The fact is that the general state of health of modern citizens often simply does not allow them to bathe. In this case, you need a bath of 3 compartments with a separate steam room. In 3x4 m, such a layout can be laid, on the right in fig. with plans, but then there is the problem of heating the shower in cold weather. It is irrational to let the shower warm up, wasting hot water in vain, there is so little of it in the water heater of the stove, and there is no longer any place for a separate stove in the shower.

A way out can be found by departing from bath-planning traditions, especially if the area available for construction allows you to increase its size. For example, in fig. - a scheme of a bath from 3x5 to 4x6 m with a small dressing room, in fact, a dressing room.

A large washing room is heated either by a separate stove (marked ?; a simple home-made potbelly stove or something like that will fit here), or by air flow from a part of the convector of a modern sauna stove in a steam room. In the latter case, 2 solutions are possible: either non-combustible partitions and part of the air convector goes into the washing room, as in the figure, or cold air intake above the floor of the washing room and supply of heated air under the ceiling using tin boxes or metal corrugations. Due to the presence of a vestibule, the general entrance can be oriented in any way, and for those who like to get hot, plunge into fresh snow or a pool in the steam room, there is a separate exit.

Note: about the second sign? in fig. and drain with drain, see below.

materials

The choice of material for the construction of a bath is primarily due to the physical processes in it. More precisely, our ancestors, based on the available and medical and hygienic requirements, understood at that time intuitively, but correctly, came up with the design of the bath building. Therefore, it turned out to be quite conservative and tightly tied to the tree. Wooden buildings require a very high skill and long technological breaks for shrinkage and self-shrinkage if inexpensive timber is used. It is possible to find a replacement for wood for a bath, for example. the foam blocks considered further or wood concrete, or sawdust concrete. Therefore, before choosing a material, let's see what kind of physics operates in the bath.

Bath physics

The first is that the bathhouse is not constantly heated, the heated one warms up very much, and when washed it becomes damp. Secondly, during heating, the sauna stove must first give a powerful stream of thermal (IR, infrared) radiation, which will warm the walls and be absorbed by them, and a little later - a strong stream of heated air, giving a uniform temperature in the steam room. At the time of washing, the furnace firebox is weakened so that those who wash it do not burn its directional IR. People in the IR bath from heated walls and the heat of the air should gently and evenly envelop; this, in addition to air far from being saturated with moisture, is an indispensable condition for light steam.

The lightness or heaviness of the bath is not so strongly related to the temperature. Steam at 45 degrees can be heavy, and at 70 - light. The portability and benefits of a bath for people of different, as they say, constitutions are expressed by a parameter that can be called the intensity of exposure to steam; among the people, it has long been known as the "vigorousness" of the bath. Also, the classification of baths on this basis has long been established:

• Lightweight, for women and children- from a linden forest, the heat capacity of the walls is small, the IR from them quickly “exhales” and the washable ones warm up more with air.
• Plain, or condo- traditionally from coniferous forest. Heating IR from the walls and air is approximately equal, depending on the mode of the furnace, it is suitable for almost everyone. It can be built from any materials suitable for a bath.
• Vigorous- from thick oak logs. Thanks to a long and powerful IR from walls with a large heat capacity, at only 50 in a steam room, one wiggle with a broom makes its way, as they say, even the bones are playing. But you can withstand vigorous steam only with iron health. In general, a vigorous bath is heroic, after it, figuratively speaking, it is just right to throw trucks, grabbing the car by the hitch.

Light baths were built by the rich more for their wives, daughters and other women dear to them: a light bath has a beneficial effect on women's health and allows you to maintain beauty for a long time; both sexes adds sexual activity. Dear Russian cocottes of the past, before accepting, they certainly let their visitors through a light bath, long before the Russian word for their profession became obscene.

However, linden timber was expensive even in the old days. Now all centuries-old linden forests are under protection, there is no harvesting of commercial linden wood. However, they are close in properties to a light linden foam block and frame bath, which will be described in more detail below. They are the cheapest and easiest to build. But riding after a light bath in the snow or floundering in an ice hole is strictly contraindicated. Even before leaving it outside, you need to cool down in a warm dressing room, and then, dressed warmly, quickly slip into the house.

A vigorous bath, on the contrary, is very expensive and complicated, because. it can only be built from logs of the highest standard. Longitudinal hollows between log crowns act as traps for the initial IR furnace, driving heat into the walls; lumber walls absorb IR far less greedily. The same applies to any log baths, so an “almost vigorous” bath can be built from a pine log with a diameter of 200 mm or more. We will continue to deal mainly with “normal” condo baths, as the most versatile and affordable.

Selection and rejection

The best material for a bath is wood, because. under him, she was created. We will talk about foam blocks and other suitable materials later when describing baths from them, because. they go into business immediately without rejection. This cannot be said about wood: one that is quite suitable for a home may not last long in a bath due to the specific conditions described above.

Note: a brick bath is inferior to a wooden one in all respects, except for one - large, from 70-100 sq. m in plan, a brick bath building will be cheaper than a wooden one, and its bathing qualities with such a large volume of the building will become acceptable. Therefore, brick baths were built and are being built mainly large public ones.

The best tree for a bath is larch, and for a vigorous bath - bog oak, but both are expensive. Most often, baths are built from pine or spruce wood after preliminary rejection of lumber. The first thing you should pay attention to is the complete absence of cracks (pos. 1 in the figure), then wormholes, pos. 2 and blue, blackness, etc. signs of decay, paragraphs. 2 and 3. Blueness usually accompanies wormholes (pos. 2), but can also appear as individual spots, pos. 3. The third sign of unconditional culling of this piece is falling knots. If the forest is conditioned, the selection criteria come into force.

Tar and dry wood

Coniferous timber, especially pine, has 2 varieties - tar and dry chips. The second is the usual timber, cut into quarters. The first is impregnated with resin, it smells strongly of it, if you run your finger over the saw cut, it sticks and gets dirty. Smolka is expensive. trees are cut down selectively during sap flow, which is by no means useful for the forest as a whole. Nevertheless, when building a bath from logs or timber, it is worth spending money on pitch for 2-3 lower crowns: it does not rot at all, but under the influence of moisture it turns to stone, turning into a kind of bog oak. For a frame bath, it is also advisable to take a resin bar for the lower strapping (bearing belt). And one more thing: on the draft floor of any bath, it is very, very desirable to purchase much less expensive semi-finished products and waste from sawing tar with wane, first of all, the cheapest slab, see fig. You will have to sweat more, debarking and adjusting, but the floor will come out eternal and inexpensive.

Note: till now, in some places, predatory logging is still practiced, when trees are cut quarterly all year round. This is beneficial for the local builders of baths - tar can be taken directly from the timber exchange cheaper than then dry chips from the distributor's warehouse. But for nature, this approach is nowhere worse, and you need to be able to evaluate raw wood by eye for warping during drying, see below, about timber.

Impregnation

All lumber for the construction of a bath must be impregnated with antiseptics, biocides and fire retardants. In addition to tar, it doesn’t rot anyway, it won’t accept any impregnation, and when it hardens, it will become very poorly flammable. Impregnations for wood are also sold separately, i.e., if it works out cheaper, then you can buy inexpensive untreated wood and process it yourself.

Wood impregnations are made from refined mineral oils and/or silicone. You can find recommendations to replace them with working off or fresh engine oil, but it’s not necessary. Engine oils contain additives that are useful to machines, not people. In the bath, they will inevitably get into the air and soak you through steamed skin.

logs

Raw, i.e. wild logs are rarely sold now - it is more profitable to dissolve them into measured material, and the waste will go into business, for pulp, etc. There are firms that sell wild wood, but the prices are selected - my respect. Therefore, all of a sudden, after reading the following, you intend to build a log bath, then you will have to buy rounded logs.

The first selection criterion is that the log must be whole and chamber dried; it is a very expensive material. Glued imitations, pos. 1 in the figure, they will perfectly go to a residential building, but not to a bathhouse, because. due to different warping of the lamellas (fragments from which the log is glued) in bath operating conditions they will soon split and rot with any impregnation.

The second point is cracks. T. naz. healthy radial cracks, pos. 2, in the log cabins of residential buildings are quite acceptable, but in the bath they will become collectors of condensate with everything that follows; there are no natural air-drying logs without them, therefore, as mentioned above, only chamber logs are suitable. For the same reason, the log profile should not have recesses facing upwards, pos. 3. From logs of the Finnish profile and any of its modifications, excellent houses are obtained, but baths are not built from them.

The log for the bath should be with the usual so-called. moon groove, pos. 4 facing down. To do this, during construction, you need to choose a suitable cutting scheme, see below. The best sizes for a bath are 190 or 210, marked in fig. If a “more vigorous” bath is being built from pine logs, then, in addition to the increased diameter, you need to choose logs with a dark core and light sapwood, on the right in Fig. Logs with dark and light belts of growth rings will randomly go to a regular bath.

Note: if the “vigorousness” of the bath does not matter much, then logs can be taken with slightly different diameters. When cutting into the oblo (this is the best way for a small bath, see below), a completely suitable frame is obtained from different-sized logs, see fig. left.

bar

A log bath will cost much cheaper than a log bath and in appearance it fits perfectly into a suburban residential development, see fig. The cheapest and easiest way to build it is from an ordinary clean-cut timber (rectangular in cross section). The criteria for its rejection are the same as for logs, but a check for evenness is added.

It seems that a simple chamber-drying beam is not currently on sale at all - it is unprofitable. And the air-drying beam is all warped to one degree or another. In general, this is not scary, in the construction of a log house they always provide for a technological break for shrinkage and the tree's own shrinkage. During it, the bars will lie down to each other and cement, as they say, get used to the caulking with an almost solid array.

However, the shrinkage of the tree is not unlimited, and if the beam was dried incorrectly, it may turn out to be excessively warped, and the frame from it will remain with cracks. There are 2 options for purchasing: either from a trusted supplier according to the live recommendations of reliable people, or with an inspection of the stack in the warehouse by an invited specialist - a carpenter, furniture maker, forestry engineer, etc. unfortunately not possible.

Beam for the construction of a bath "under the log"

It is very attractive, but requires especially careful rejection of the tree, the construction of a log bath from a three-edged beam with a wane (pos. 1 in the figure on the right) or a 2-edged one, it is also a semi-edged sleeper, pos. 2.

These are semi-finished products, i.e. are inexpensive. Cutting them is not much more difficult than a simple bar and may well be done by a non-carpenter. But it is possible to build a bathhouse from such a bar that looks very similar to a “cool” log bathhouse, and in terms of properties - with an intensive firebox, it is close to vigorous.

As for the profiled timber, it is, firstly, expensive. Then, glued laminated timber should not be allowed into the bath, for the same reasons as imitation of a log, pos. 2 in fig. And a solid chamber beam is even more expensive, and only one selected entirely from the core (pos. 1) or sapwood will go to the bath. If both of them are immediately visible on the cut of the beam, it will split in the bathhouse structure. Finally, in the profile of the beam, as in the logs for the bath, there should not be recesses facing upwards, pos. 4. All this turns the choice into a living hell, especially since the sellers, knowing that their goods are quite good at home, do not understand such fastidiousness.

More about brick

Suddenly you want to build a brick bath, keep in mind that the brick for it is also subject to rejection. The bath needs a heavy and dark low-porous, or moderately, without warping and swelling, burnt iron ore, or clinker. A beautiful face brick of dry or semi-dry molding is unambiguously unsuitable.

Construction

Well, we will assume that we have passed the difficult and responsible stage of selecting and rejecting the material. After all, the cost of it only needs time, knowledge and attention. Now - we are building a bath! Here, too, there is something to pay attention to, in addition to the usual construction work operations. In general, the sequence of building a bath is as follows:

1. Foundation;
2. Underfloor insulation and drainage equipment with a drain;
3. For frame baths - frame;
4. For them - a technological break for 2-6 months. for frame shrinkage;
5. Walls;
6. For log and timber baths - log cabin caulking;
7. For them, from air-dried materials (unprofiled timber, wild and debarked non-cylindered logs) - a technical break for 6-18 months. for shrinkage / shrinkage of the log house;
8. openings, doors, windows;
9. Ceiling;
10. Roof;
11. Interior arrangement and, mainly, the installation of the furnace.

Foundation

In the old days, baths were placed on an unburied foundation of boulders (item 1 in the figure), this made it possible to reduce the processing of logs of the lower crown to a minimum. To do this, they collected something like a lodgment or centers from wild stones, in which round logs did not roll. At the corners, large boulders with intersecting natural hollows were especially valued; those are the cornerstones. The original meaning of this term is now forgotten. A boulder foundation for a bath can be laid even today, but, alas, wild stone is now far from waste material.

Note: do not be surprised at the mention of cornerstones in the Bible and the Gospel. The now almost treeless Levant was then rich in excellent cedar trees. It was enough for buildings and fleets. What was King Solomon's palace made of? "Thanks" to the high value of the Lebanese cedar, now it is almost gone.

A full-fledged replacement for a boulder - not buried or shallow, pos. 2. The first is suitable for any wooden bath, and the second - for a foam block. In terms of complexity and laboriousness, the laying of both are available to novice builders, and at a price - the family budget is below average. There is only one drawback: it is not suitable for unreliable soils. These include:

• Medium heaving closer to strongly heaving and strongly heaving (heaving over 6-7% by volume) - fine silty sandy loam, dense loam, puffy clay, etc.
• Subsidence II category, over 5% by volume - loose loess and clayey.
• Weak, with a bearing capacity of less than 1.7 kg / sq. cm - humus, silty, peaty, loose sandy loam.

In places with a consistently positive winter and a low probability of freezing of the runoff, an excellent, simple and cheap option for a foundation for a wooden bath is a columnar, not deepened from ready-made blocks 200x200x400, pos. 3. A conscientious and attentive office city dweller, having undertaken to build, can lay it down over the weekend.

On a slope, which is very good for a drain device, and on unreliable soils, a bathhouse can be placed on a columnar foundation of asbestos-cement pipes, pos. 4. Under a wooden structure, it is approximately equal in cost and labor intensity to a tape one. Underfloor insulation in places with frosty winters increases both slightly. Under the bath of foam blocks or bricks, the heads of the pillars will have to be tied with rand beams or grillage, pos. 5, this is already a rather complicated and expensive process, especially the application of a grillage. However, for baths, you can most often get by with rand beams.

Finally, the pile-grillage foundation, pos. 6. It can be either welded metal, as in the figure, or concrete on bored piles. Both are quite complicated and expensive, and a high-quality metal pile foundation also requires special equipment.

Pile foundations are laid under buildings on soils, as they say, none: silty, peaty, weak, heavily watered; in general, "in the swamp." They don’t put a bathhouse on rotten wetness, but laying a pile foundation under it is justified in special cases.

For example, the author had a chance to take a steam bath in a vigorous bath on a steep hill above the river. A platform protruded above the pool, from which a ladder went straight into the water. From the bottom, springs were beating there - in summer the water was icy, and in winter a polynya held. Feelings - unspeakable, if you soar in paradise, then that's how it is and not otherwise. But you can build in such a place only on piles, otherwise in a year or two the earth will crawl, and the bathhouse will only gurgle or float, swaying. It is for such exclusives that the pile foundation for the bath is intended.

Wall insulation and sheathing

Before the construction of any bath on any foundation, except for boulders, it is necessary to apply double waterproofing from bitumen and roofing material, see fig. It is applied after the foundation has gained strength, except for welded metal.

If a wooden bath is to be built on a strip foundation, then before laying the 1st crown of the log house or the lower frame belt, slats 30x30 mm or 40x40 mm are laid out on the tape along the insulation, as shown in fig. left; with high-quality lumber, you can get by with thick, from 10 mm, shreds. The purpose of this crate is to prevent the wood from rotting from underneath due to capillary blockage. The remaining gap is then caulked along with the walls.

Note: in any case, no anchor bolts, etc. to attach the walls to the foundation is not needed. With thermal shocks that the structure of the bath experiences, there will be no benefit from them, except for harm.

Floor and drain

The floor and the drain of the bath are inextricably linked and therefore are considered together. Together they make up the most complex and responsible structural unit of the bath, which largely determines its operational and sanitary and hygienic qualities.

In the old bathhouses, the drain went directly to the ground through a slotted floor. Now it is forbidden to dump any runoff on the ground surface, but the slatted floor of the steam room / washing room is quite appropriate, see below.

The drain from the bath can be organized scattered, through the entire surface of the floor, or point (concentrated) through the grate (ladder) in the floor. The first, as we will see below, is more difficult, but much more hygienic. Point drain is done most often if the drain pit is under the floor. This saves space and the volume of earthworks, but sanitation with hygiene - by 3 with a minus. In addition, there are no drain pits that do not require cleaning and pumping out at all, and in this case, for plumbing repairs, you will need to break the floor. An additional minus is that due to the infiltration of sewage directly under the building, the bathhouse will “lead” sooner or later.

As an argument in favor of a pit under the floor, they often cite - they say, it will not freeze. And, sorry, are you heating your bathhouse all winter? If you can afford it, then why samostroy? Order a turnkey bathhouse and take a steam bath. Unfortunately, there is no reason to add "to health" since there is a hole under the floor. The way to protect any sewage pit from freezing has long been known: it is a wooden cover 30-40 cm under the revision hatch. The drain from the bath is warm and under the double cover will have time to soak into the ground before the most severe frost reaches it.

Note: sometimes they also say that a gas-tight cover should be placed on the pit under the bathhouse. Pure curiosity in the spirit of black humor - any sealed sewage pit once explodes like a poorly sterilized jar of home canned food. In the bath - mainly during washing, because. a thermal shock during heating will play the role of an initiator.

Device diffused flow from the bath, it is clear from pos. 1 fig. It is highly desirable to equip the concrete drain with a self-made water seal, pos. 2, this will ensure that the bath meets the most stringent sanitary requirements. Concrete on the screed is taken waterproof; when self-kneading, a water-polymer emulsion is added to the water at the rate of 200 ml per 10 l, and the screed that has hardened and gained strength is treated with bituminous mastic. This should be done in the warm season, and before laying the floor, give a technical break for 5-7 days.

The bath should have a separate drain hole. The drain from the bath is large for a house sewer and volley, but much cleaner than kitchen gray, not to mention fecal from, and contains a little fat. If you run a bath drain into a properly calculated and built common one, then it will choke and the active bacteria in it will die. If you build a large and expensive septic tank based on a salvo discharge, then the usual runoff will not be enough for bacteria to feed, the activated sludge will turn sour, and the sewage system will stop working again. A drain pit is dug at the rate of 50-100 liters per 1 person washing to a depth of at least 30 cm below the calculated (normative) freezing depth, provided that it is buried in the mainland (under the fertile layer) soil by at least 1.2 m. RF, these conditions are maintained when the drain is deepened by 1.6-1.8 m.

The simplest and cheapest drain pit is obtained from car tires in a clay castle, pos. 3. But sewage will inevitably stagnate in its side pockets, and such a pit will have to be disinfected much more often. Keeping in mind the future costs of antiseptics, cleaning and pumping, it turns out to be more profitable to buy a pair of (60-70) cm concrete or plastic rings for wells. These are the smallest and cheapest well rings. Their height is standard - 90 cm; 2 is just enough. With an inside diameter of 0.7 m, the volume of the pit is sufficient for 5-6 washers.

Suddenly, the pit is still under the floor (maybe there is simply no place for an external one on the site), then the bath can be used no more than once a week. In this case, the point runoff will also be cheaper, and its complex and expensive concrete catcher under the floor can be replaced with an overturned low wooden tent. Then, around the mouth of the pit, it is necessary to apply high-quality waterproofing with a removal of at least 0.5 m beyond the drainage grate contour, pos. 4. However, this is also a bad way out: water will still seep under the insulation, and what kind of biocenosis will develop there, it’s better not to think about it. At least before meals.

Floor

The floor of the bath should provide, firstly, a quick and complete flow of water, without rotting itself. Secondly, to give sufficient insulation and guarantee against drafts from below, provided that it is impossible to clog the underground with thermal insulation, you will have to limit yourself to backfilling with expanded clay. To do this, the floor of the bath is made floating, pos. 1 in Fig., i.e. unrelated to the structure of the building. Lay the floor on the logs; their ends in the log wall are inserted into the cutouts of the lower crown, pos. 2. In a log bath, the ends of the logs are connected with crossbars to form a solid lattice, and in a frame house, as in a frame house, the floor logs together in the lower belt form the main supporting frame.

The lag step is 40-60 cm. Their height is 100-120 mm for a span of up to 4 m and 150 mm for a span of 4-5 m. With a larger span, intermediate pillars or internal sections of the tape must be provided in the foundation. The lag thickness is taken approximately 1/50 of the span length, i.e. 60mm for 3m, 80mm for 4m, etc.

In the intervals between the lags, the slab is laid with the convex side up. Because slab boards taper to one end, they are laid alternately with a narrow end in one direction or the other. Between the boards leave gaps of 5 mm, the same pos. 2 in fig. This design does not interfere with the flow, improves thermal insulation to some extent, and, together with the finishing floor boards laid across the slabs, protects against drafts.

It is very, very desirable to take tar pine for logs and rough flooring from slab. To reduce the cost of the floor of the log, you can make them a 3-edged beam or a semi-edged sleeper spread along in two, see above. But then they will have to be trimmed from the side of the wane so that the base for the finishing floor is even and horizontal.

The finished floor with scattered drainage is laid from an ordinary planed clean-cut board, preferably tar, with a thickness of 40 mm or more. Reducing the cost, again, will cost extra work: you can take an unplaned and unedged pitching board, “bring it to mind” yourself on a circular saw and a jointer (the old Soviet desktop UBDS-1 and the like are very convenient for this), and lay it in the flooring the remnants of the wane down. A clean floor is laid with gaps between the boards of about 5 mm, to drain water.

To lay a floor with a point drain, first a larch or tar board with a drain grate is placed between the lags above the pit or water seal. The floor is laid without cracks, with a cutout above the grate, pos. 3 and 4. The board must be taken not grooved, but with a castle quarter, pos. 5. After a technical break for shrinkage of the structure, the joints of the boards are poured with liquid nails or rubbed with waterproof putty on wood.

With all the high cost, complexity and complexity, this is far from the best option. At pos. 4 it can be seen that, judging by the general condition of the floor and the lattice, the bathhouse is still new, but the floor under the bench is already slick. Apparently, the hostility of the builders to the scattered drain through the slatted floor is explained by prejudices and incomplete knowledge of the history of the Russian bath.

Walls and frame

The log bath looks, of course, chic, see fig. But we will not linger on them for a long time: these buildings are actually not for beginners. In any case, in order to build the simplest bathhouse, you will need to master 2 difficult technologies - cutting logs with a cloud with a residue, pos. And in Fig., and with a paw without a trace, pos. B-D. The latter, by the way, is technologically simpler, but requires calibrated logs, because the proportions of the marking template (pos. D) are tied to the side of the square inscribed in the diameter of the log, pos. D. In any case, the bottom of the logs of the first crown must be very accurately and evenly hung, because. a boulder foundation that can be fitted under the logs is now unrealistic.

Note: cutting into an oblo and into a simple bowl (see the figure on the right) is often considered the same work operation, because the configuration of logs ready for laying in a log house is the same. In fact, when cutting into the bowl, the notches and grooves turn up, which is unacceptable for a bath. When cutting into the oblo, the fitted logs are transferred to the log house with a flip, this complicates and slows down the assembly of the log house on the foundation.

From a bar

It is already quite possible for a beginner to build a bath from a bar: there is no need to choose curved grooves and holes in a tree. It is enough to be able to handle a saw, hammer, chisel and axe. To build a small, up to 4x5 m, bath, you need to master only 3, or only one, simple operation: a cut into half a tree or into an ocher with a remainder, or a cut without a remainder into a paw (at the butt); marked in Fig. "!".

A beam from 100x100 to 250x250 mm will go to the bath. The thicker, the naturally better and more expensive. In general, "weaving" is enough south of Voronezh, 150x150 for the Moscow region, and 200x200 - north of St. Petersburg. For 1-3 lower crowns, you need to take a beam a size larger, and again, it is highly desirable, tar.

Actually, the process of assembling a log cabin without a trace of non-profile clean-cut timber (the simplest and cheapest) by cutting into the end is shown on the next. rice. First, according to the template, the ends of the bars cut to size are prepared, pos. 1. If instead of a beam there is a semi-edged sleeper (pos. 1a) that is conditioned for a bath (see above), then you can get an almost complete imitation of a log cabin.

When assembling the log house, it is necessary to prevent the lateral displacement of the beams. A log cabin is held by moon grooves, but for smooth beams, ties in the corners are not enough. There are 2 options here. First, pos. 2 - simple, but not the best, because the nails in the frame will rust. The log house is immediately knocked down tightly, and the caulked tape (see below) is applied immediately. The location and length of the nails are the same as the dowels in the trail. option. Nails are needed secret, with a fully recessed hat, or a special tool for the hammer - a hammer; it looks like a bench punch with a ground end.

According to the 2nd method, pos. 3, the bars are fastened with round deaf dowels - dowels. Calibrated pins are on sale, it is better to take oak ones. The connection of the crowns with dowels is done as follows:

• The next one is placed on the previous crown.
• Holes are drilled exactly according to the diameter of the dowels through the upper beam to half the height of the lower one.
• Remove the top crown.
• Lay caulk tape.
• Pins are inserted by piercing the caulk over the nests under them.
• Again, now for good, they lay the upper crown, putting it on the dowels.
• The procedure is repeated until the complete assembly of the frame; pins are staggered, see again pos. 3.

Note: with a span of up to 6 m, it is enough to fasten the bars at the corners, as shown in fig.

And if the beam is profiled?

One of the reasons why they came up with a profile beam is the desire to get rid of the rather laborious and additionally expensive fastening with dowels. However, this consideration is not applicable to the bath: profiles that hold each other "iron" are not suitable for a bath. And for those that will not “catch” condensate, bath temperature deformations will soon break the ridges. Therefore, the log cabin of a bath from a profiled beam still needs to be fastened together.

Caulker

Log and log cabins for the assembly of caulk. For a log, you will need solid caulking skills and a complete set of caulking tools, see fig.

It is easier to caulk a beam: you will need a crooked steel caulk - a swab, a narrow wooden straight line and a mallet, see fig. below. The bath log house is caulked in both ways shown there: when assembling the log house, it is laid between the crowns to caulk for stretched caulking, and at the end of it they are finally caulked into a set.

Note: the flannel is designed to push the caulk between the logs. From its name comes "to fawn" in the sense of ingratiating itself with trust, to crawl with ulterior motives in mind, in general, to crawl under the skin. If the caulking is jute (see below), and the log house is timber-framed, no flint is needed.

It is impossible to do without caulking with waterproofing, even the most modern one: caulking not only seals the seams, but “merges” with the tree into a single array and finally holds the frame together. There are no synthetics that can replace it yet.

In the old days, they were caulked with moss in a stretch, and in a set - with oiled or tarred linen tow. Now most of all they caulk with jute fiber, it is almost wood in composition and lignin content. It is better to take jute hemp in the form of a set of ribbon and cord, see fig. The tape is loose, it is easy to pierce it with a finger under the dowel. They lay the tape when assembling the log house, and then you don’t need to fawn over it; after assembling the log house, they immediately caulk it with a cord into the set.

To prevent the log house from leading, they caulk strictly in the following sequence: the deaf long side of the lower crown inside, then outside, then also opposite it. Then - the short sides of the lower crown, starting from the one where there are no openings, also first from the inside, then from the outside. In the same sequence, the remaining crowns are caulked strictly in turn from bottom to top.

The result of the beam and log

The galvanized log of chamber drying can be considered a kind of profiled timber. A bath from it and a professional beam, also chamber-drying, can be used immediately after construction, because. these materials have undergone shrinkage and shrinkage during processing; this is the undoubted advantage of "chamber" wood. The cost of 1 sq. m of a bath room made of these materials in most regions of the Russian Federation exceeds the cost of a square of living space in new buildings of the middle class.

The most expensive, complex and time-consuming, but also the most prestigious, will be a log bath. Its bath qualities exactly correspond to those of the traditional Russian bath. In terms of “steepness” and cost, it is almost equivalent to a log sauna, but technologically it is much simpler and can be supplied by an amateur builder of medium qualification. In terms of steam quality, a log bath can be made almost indistinguishable from a log bath.

The use of chamber profiled beams for the construction of a bathhouse can be justified if it is not possible to reject air-dried or raw material by the piece, for example, in regions where there are no own logging operations and merchants flatly refuse to sell ordinary sawn timber selectively. Otherwise, it is possible, using semi-finished products of commercial wood, to put a log bath, and it looks almost indistinguishable from a log bath.

On the whole a log or timber bath can be recommended for those who are sufficiently wealthy, he takes care of his health, keeps his physical shape, and has already built at least a country house or a barn. If you are not sure that a condo, and even more so a vigorous steam room, will do you good, then it is better to build one of the light baths described below. The same option is shown with a lack of funds and building experience: light baths are simple and inexpensive, and their steam will not hurt anyone.

technical break

After assembling and caulking the log house, it is temporarily sewn up from above with boards, plywood, cardboard, etc., and covered with a film. The film is fixed in any way so as not to be torn off by the wind. The log house is left to dry and shrink for at least six months; best - from spring or early summer to autumn next year. During this time, the tree will not only dry out and sit down, but also get used to the caulk.

Openings, doors, windows

Methods for arranging door and window openings in log baths are mainly used 2. 1st, pos. 1 and 2 in the figure, “for the lazy and uneconomical”: only 1 of its upper timber is selected in size along the width of the opening, and after a technical break, the opening is simply sawn out. However, this method is not so wasteful: trimmings can go to the shield ceiling (see below) and certainly to the internal equipment of the bath, bed, etc. after shrinkage of the frame, the edges of the future opening must be reinforced with dowels when assembling the frame, like corners.

According to the 2nd method, pos. 3, the bars are cut to size in advance, and a spike is selected at their ends extending into the opening. The disadvantage of this method is that special door and window boxes are needed, while according to the first method, simple frames made of boards will go to them. In general, it is better to make openings “in the first way” when the appearance of the bath does not matter much, and “in the second way” - when you want “more abruptly”.

Note: from the baths of the middle-budget class, the timber ones are certainly the best. Therefore, we give in addition a video about the details of arranging a log bath:

Video: building a bath from a bar, the right device

frame

The frame bath is built as well. Immediately after the frame is assembled, rafter beams are placed, and the frame dries / shrinks already under its own roof, in the center in fig. Since the openwork structure is blown by all the winds, the technical break for drying / shrinkage is minimal. Usually the frame is assembled in the spring, in the same autumn the bath is completed and even before the cold weather they are already steaming.

The second feature is that the finishing floor is laid along with the wall sheathing from the outside, on the right in the figure, in the usual sequence from bottom to top, i.e. starting from the floor. It is not necessary to insulate the walls from the outside, as is sometimes advised. For decorative purposes, something like sheathing with siding is enough, without laying polystyrene in the cells of the crate. So it is necessary that the walls are better ventilated. But it is necessary to insulate from the inside thoroughly, as in the foam block bath described below, excluding the underlying plaster.

The frame bath turns out to be the simplest and cheapest, even cheaper than a bath from foam blocks. According to the “vigorousness” of the couple, this bath is only and only light. However, taking a steam bath in it in winter north of Moscow is very problematic: it gives off heat well, and the insulation measures used in frame houses make steam heavy. On the whole frame bath - a typical weekend summer bath; serves especially well as a country bath, combined with a utility block.

Note: there are no restrictions on the outer skin of the frame bath, therefore, imitations for timber, logs, etc. are possible.

Foam block

A foam block bath is the only type of bath structure in our time that allows you to put a light bath in any climate due to the high heat-insulating properties of the wall material. Baths made of aerated concrete can also be considered the cheapest and simplest technologically: their cost is lower than that of a timber one, by 25-30%, and even up to 50%, see below. The number of measurements and fine-tuning operations during construction for a foam block bath is several times less than for a frame bath, and it is not at all necessary to form curved surfaces in the material.

It is also important that, with a generally significant expenditure of working time, little physical effort is required when building a bath from foam blocks. You don’t need to swing a saw and an ax all the time, in general, the construction technique is set, attached, nailed. For citizens unaccustomed to physical labor, this circumstance can be decisive. And for summer residents - the fact that a technical interruption during construction is needed is minimal, for curing mortars. In a typical summer, a week is enough for this, and construction can continue next weekend. Which, working together on weekends, two or three, you can, starting in April, complete by July and still have a good steam before winter.

Foam concrete, from which foam blocks are made, is a light material, it floats in water. Therefore, on stable and well-bearing soils, the construction of a foam block bath can be further simplified and cheaper. In general, a strip foundation is recommended for a foam block bath, pos. 1 in fig. But on reliable soils, it can be replaced with a non-buried columnar of ready-made concrete blocks, as for a frame bath, and walls can be erected on a frame made of timber from 200x200 to 300x300, impregnated with an antiseptic, water repellent and covered with waterproofing, like a concrete tape.

However, the lightness and, especially, the porosity of aerated concrete set the same labor during construction; True, not hard and easy. It is especially necessary to protect the walls from getting stuck inside and out: aerated concrete dampens not only easily, but downright with pleasure, but it dries very hard and for a long time. Therefore, looking ahead, we’ll immediately say that, having covered the roof, the bathhouse must be surrounded by a ventilated facade with a gap of about 5 cm. With any other method of external insulation / insulation, the dew point entering the porous, greedily absorbing moisture wall is inevitable.

Further, when erecting walls, pos. 2, only the first 2-3 rows are laid on an ordinary cement-sand mortar, and then they switch to a special adhesive for aerated concrete, it looks like a regular masonry mortar. The lightness of the material already plays a role here: the cement masonry joint, being lightly loaded, poorly resists shear loads, and the wind can simply fill up the structure.

The most peculiarities concern internal insulation. It is produced in this order:

1. Walls with waterproof plaster (lime; a water-polymer emulsion is added to the solution water);
2. On completely dried plaster, they are painted with water-repellent paint, preferably polymeric facade, in extreme cases - iron minium, zinc or titanium white;
3. On the dried paint, waterproofing is laid with an overlap of 15 cm, securing it with horizontal slats;
4. Mats of long-staple mineral wool are laid between the rails, pos. 3;
5. Mineral insulation is sheathed with rolled foil on both sides of glass wool, also long-fiber, pos. 4 and 4a, with an overlap of 25 cm;
6. Vertical slats are stuffed over the foil insulation and the inner lining is already led along them;
7. Upon completion of the finish and installation of doors / windows, all cracks are carefully foamed, pos. 5: foam concrete does not care where it gets wet, the moisture in it spreads instantly. A cloud escaping from the steam room into the dressing room can ruin the bathhouse.

And once again, looking ahead, but not much: due to the features of the building, visible in pos. 1, the ceiling in the bath of foam blocks is made only by hemming.

Ceiling

The ceiling of the bath is made flat, hemmed or panel. The first is the original ceiling of a small Russian bath. For its construction, the well-established log cabin is sewn up with boards from above, the cracks are caulked with moss into the set from the side of the attic and filled with resin. Then truss beams are applied (see below, about the roof) and the gaps between them are covered with peat; sometimes the entire ceiling is tarred before backfilling. The floor of the attic is either laid, or not. Now, of course, it is better to caulk with jute, before installing the beams, cover the flooring with waterproofing, and insulate with long-fiber mineral wool.

The false ceiling, see fig., is suitable for any bath, because. it is stronger - the ceiling beams are at the same time rafters, moreover, they are mechanically connected with the log house / structure. Shield ceiling - a combination of a flat one with a hemmed one: a shield with insulation and insulation is assembled on the ground, and then, pulling up with the whole crowd, either with a crane or a mini-excavator manipulator, they lay it on a log house. The shield ceiling is good in that it can be “blinded” from scraps, but it is only suitable for a log bath up to 4x5 m in size.

Roof

The roof for any of the described baths is suitable gable. Rafter trusses - simple triangles with one crossbar-kerchief, in the center in the figure:

The pediments are sewn up with boards; you definitely need dormer windows that open for the summer and for the duration of use + an hour and a half after it in the winter. Hanging rafters are suitable for a log bath, on the left in the figure, for the rest - a complete truss with a coupler beam, on the right there. The crate under the roof deck is sparse, with slots from 30 mm, for ventilation. The flooring itself is any, except for iron, it does not hold heat well and quickly rusts in the bath.

Arrangement

The requirements for finishing materials for a bath, in addition to decorative ones, are moisture resistance, hygiene, and complete chemical neutrality. According to their combination, they often take a wooden lining from an array. MDF and laminate are not suitable, they will swell and become limp! The lining profile for any orientation of the boards must comply with the requirements described above: no pockets facing upwards, for example, as in fig. on right.

In the steam room, of course, you need beds. They are made 2-3 tiered, with a vertical step of 50-60 cm, even if only one person is steamed all the time. The reason is that you need the ability to choose the height of the location when hovering, depending on the general condition, so that the bath does not come out sideways.

The width of the beds is 60-80 cm; flooring - necessarily with slots of 10-20 mm, on the left in fig. The finishing floor under the beds is not laid, it will slick! The length of the boards is taken 180-200 cm for soaring in a prone position or 80-100 cm for soaring while sitting. “Economical” 150 cm polati for soaring with knees up is not the best option. Sometimes you want and need to raise your knees when soaring in prone, but if you soar all the time, your health will not benefit due to the constant outflow of blood from the legs to the heart and head.

It is better to finish the shower / washing room from upright boards, on the right in the figure, so there is less chance of decay - it is easier for water to drain from the grooves. Also in the washing room, eat there or roll from the gang, benches are needed - to sit, steamed up, do your feet without risking slipping, for children.

About partitions

Capital partitions in the bath are not needed. On the contrary, they need to be made lighter so that the heat of the oven is more likely to dissipate throughout the bath. Partitions are placed in front of internal insulation, insulation and decoration. Material - boards or wooden lining on a wooden frame; total thickness - 50-70 mm. Moisture resistant drywall, plywood, etc. they are not suitable, they will not last long in the bath.

Bake

A requirement common to all sauna stoves is an elongated furnace channel so that the furnace door can be led into the dressing room. Tradition is a tradition, but in the old days they burned most often just in baths: a person's susceptibility to carbon monoxide increases sharply with an increase in air temperature.

For a bath with a common steam-washing room, an inexpensive sauna stove without an air convector, like the “Heat” and its home-made copies, is most suitable. A potbelly stove for a bath with a water heater will also go - in the smallest steam room, you can provide a length of the horizontal part of the chimney from 2 m, which will make the potbelly stove quite economical.

It is unrealistic to maintain in a small bath the distance of the furnace from the walls of 60 cm required by the PB, and special fireproof ones, as in the steam room on the previous. rice are very expensive. Therefore, the corner for the stove in the bath must, firstly, be covered with a mat of vermiculite or mineral cardboard, pos. 1 in fig. on right. The usual refractory bedding made of asbestos and steel sheet is not suitable for a bath - iron heated to 60-70 degrees can be severely burned by stepping on the foot, because. the severity of the burn depends on the amount of thermal energy transferred to the body, and the metal gives off heat well and quickly. Therefore, by the way, steam burns are so dangerous - in this case, a very large latent heat of water condensation is released.

Secondly, the walls near the furnace must be covered with refractory lining. On the same pose. 1 builders did not stint on fireclay bricks for her. In physics - excellent, but, constantly moistened, fireclay will soon crumble, and the lining will have to be changed. The same high-burnt (dark) ceramic working brick that went to the top of the skin would fit to the very bottom.

A little more about the shape of the sauna stove. In a collective steam room, it is best to install a round stove, pos. 2 in the same figure, or a basket stove with a furnace part hidden in the heater. Then all the steamers will receive equal shares of health.

Unusual differences

The most vigorous of Russian baths is a dugout bath, see fig. For its construction, a dry sandy (better), sandy or loamy hillock is required. Walls, stove, chimney - from boulders or large rubble; the roof is covered with sod. A wooden lattice-frame is placed on the earthen floor, which is then thrown back against the wall so that it does not rot. Drain into the ground, which in our time is only possible furtively, but steam - Ilya Muromets would only grunt and hoot.

And here's something else - a camping mini-bath, see next. rice.

The design on the same principle is repeated by many, both in mobile and in stationary versions, see at least the video:

Video: mini-bath

But let's take a look at Fig. Doesn't this structure look like...? If you take a milky one, not translucent, on the skin? Unless the owners are prone to exhibitionism, and even then the neighbors will complain. All in all, it's worth a try.

The cheapest bathhouse is the choice for those who want to quickly and without much financial loss build a small but fully functional bathhouse for themselves and their families on their own plot. It is clear that the durability of such a building will be noticeably inferior to the service life of classical structures made of timber or blocks, but subject to certain simple rules, such a bath will last at least 7-10 years.

This review will consider the most budgetary, simple and at the same time quite environmentally friendly and comfortable small bath with dimensions of 4x2.5 meters plus a 4x1.5 platform for the porch. The main savings are achieved through minimal investment in the foundation and walls. Since the dimensions are very compact, the weight of the entire structure makes it possible not to use special blocks for the foundation, or even more so to perform concrete pouring.

As a foundation, the cheapest option is poles from old tires. In this case, rubber ramps from the Gazelle car that had worked out were taken.

The photo shows that the tires were laid on roofing material, which spread directly to the ground, but this solution has its drawbacks. The ground at the construction site must be solid, without noticeable elevation changes. In addition, you need to make sure that the area chosen for the bath is not flooded with water during long rainy periods.

It would be optimal, before laying such supports, to level the ground under them. To do this, it is enough to remove the upper fertile layer and cover the site with gravel or crushed stone. Such a solution will additionally protect the floor from all kinds of vegetation that will tend to grow under the building.

Without fail, the first thing to do is to correctly mark all the tire installation points. It is very important that the wooden trim at the base of the bath is made as accurately as possible, so that all corners are 90 °, and the beams around the perimeter have pre-calculated dimensions. If you do not make a geometrically correct strapping, then there will be great difficulties with installing the roof frame.

The strapping is made of a beam 150x150 mm, laid on a roofing material, laid over the tires. The dimensions of the grillage along the perimeter are 4x4 meters. The vertical column in the photo, also from a 15x15 cm beam, divides the structure into an interior space and a porch.

Frame and walls

The walls are made of wooden pallets with mineral wool insulation along the entire perimeter. All boards and timber are treated with an antiseptic.

Outside, the tree is sheathed with a vapor-permeable windproof membrane. Here it is important to take a vapor-permeable material so that the insulation can effectively evaporate moisture into the external environment.

On top of the windshield, vertical strips are stuffed for attaching exterior trim boards.

To protect the roof, a vapor-permeable membrane is also laid on the rafter system, on top of which the metal tile is installed.

Exterior finish - unedged board, painted by Belinka. So that in the process of attaching such boards to the crate, they do not crack, you need to use either galvanized nails, or fix the material with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled small holes in the attachment points. Mounting on self-tapping screws without preparation sometimes leads to cracking of the board along the edges.

Interior decoration

The floor is covered with dense foil waterproofing with sizing of all seams with foil tape.

On top of the hydroprotection, a crate for the finishing floor is installed from a board of 150x25 mm. A self-made metal furnace is installed as a combustion unit.

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The walls of the steam room are sheathed with foil vapor barrier on kraft paper and covered with a wooden board 100x15 mm on the crate. The lining was not installed for reasons of economy, since the bath is still being built on a budget.

This is what the door looks like from the side of the entrance to the bath through the veranda. The total cost of all materials was no more than $ 1,700. Despite the cheapness of the building, you should not neglect the rules of fire safety. The wall near the furnace must be finished with heat-resistant sheet material, and the passage of the chimney through the roof is made with indents from wooden structures of at least 10-15 cm on each side.

The space between the pipe and the tree is filled with non-combustible mineral wool, and from the side of the steam room it is sheathed with a metal sheet. This decision was taken from an article that describes in detail the manufacturing technology of an inexpensive frame bath with welded metal trim and dimensions of 4.8x2.6 meters.

Building your own bathhouse on the site of a country house is a rather serious and troublesome business, so you need to approach this issue with full responsibility. In this article we will try to highlight the main points of construction, and in general, talk about how to build a bathhouse with your own hands on your own site, using your capabilities in the most rational way.

Self-construction of a bath, from start to finish

Any construction begins with the preparation of design and permit documentation. With the construction of a bath, the issue is solved a little easier, since it is a non-residential auxiliary room.

According to Article 51. "Issuance of building permits", of the Town Planning Code of the Russian Federation of December 29, 2004 No. 190-F3, a separate permit for the construction of auxiliary buildings is not required. However, after the construction of the bath, you must contact the BTI to register a new building on the general layout of your site.

The construction project of any structure, first of all, is necessary for the owner himself for:

• objective budgeting;
• development planning;
• competent construction of the building;
• laying all the necessary communications.

In addition, for an understanding person, the project contains ready-made instructions that will tell you how to build a bathhouse with your own hands. Therefore, this item is mandatory for the construction of objects of any complexity, including baths.

Start of construction

After the project is selected, the construction timeframe and budget are set, the necessary materials are purchased, construction work can begin.

The first stage, as a rule, is planning work on the ground and digging a pit, while it is recommended to comply with certain conditions:

• During the planning of the territory, it is necessary to remove the fertile soil layer, and store it separately until the end of the work, and then return it to its place.
• When hiring earth-moving equipment, in parallel with the foundation pit, it would be advisable to immediately dig trenches to bring communications to the bathhouse (water supply, sewerage, electric cable).
• During construction, equip drainage ditches to remove rainwater from the pit.
• Install fences at the work site, and provide walkways and walkways for the safe passage of people.

Advice! It is best to start earthworks in the second half of spring, when the snow melts, the earth dries out and warm, clear weather sets in, and try to finish before the start of the period of prolonged rains, snowfalls and autumn frosts.

Foundation selection

For the construction of a bath, there are several types of foundations. All of them are made on the basis of reinforced concrete.

Which one to choose depends on the characteristics of your site.

1. Ribbon shallow foundation, the most common variant. Suitable for sandy stable soils, with a low level of groundwater. Work on the manufacture of a strip foundation consists in digging a trench, about 400 mm deep, installing formwork, backfilling a layer of sand on the bottom of the trench, then a layer of gravel, installing reinforcement strapping, and pouring all this with concrete to the upper level of the formwork.

1. Column Foundation, is reinforced concrete pillars installed at the corners of the building, and at the junction of internal and external walls. Instead of reinforced concrete, brick, or rubble stone, connected with cement mortar, can be used. It is used on slightly heaving soils. The depth of the pillars, as a rule, can reach one and a half meters. The work consists of digging holes, installing formwork, backfilling rubble, installing reinforcement, and pouring concrete pillars. As a variant of the columnar foundation, bored piles can also be considered.

1. Screw piles, another type of columnar foundation, is used in the case of weak peat or flowing clay soils. The deepening of such piles can reach several meters, until it reaches solid layers of soil with its base. A screw pile is a steel thick-walled pipe with metal blades at the base, which is screwed into the ground manually or with the help of mechanisms. After deepening, the pile is cut to the desired height, and poured with concrete mortar.

1. Monolithic concrete pad, is used in case of difficult hydrological conditions of the soil with a high level of groundwater. It is a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which is poured in place, over the entire area of ​​the pit.

Advice! The distance between the bearing supports of the columnar foundation should be no more than 2 meters. If the distance between the corners of the building and the intersection of the walls is greater, an additional intermediate support must be installed.

External and internal walls

Before you build baths with your own hands, you need to decide on the material of the walls. Most often, brick and natural wood are used for these purposes.

In addition, sometimes the bathhouse is carried out according to the principle of frame-panel construction, where a prefabricated structure made of wooden beams is used as a frame, and the cladding is performed with composite materials based on wood-shavings with expanded polystyrene filler. Also, in some cases, the walls of the bath are erected from materials based on lightweight concrete, such as foam concrete, or wood concrete.

For those who are wondering how to build a cheap bathhouse with their own hands, it would be most appropriate to make the inner walls and piers from the same material as the outer ones. The difference mainly lies only in the thickness of the walls.

Each of the materials has its own advantages and disadvantages.

1. Brick is characterized by easy accessibility, fire safety, durability, resistance to high humidity and the effects of rodents, pests, mold fungi. The construction of a bath from it does not require any special skills, and is available for do-it-yourself work. Among the shortcomings, it should be noted the low thermal insulation capacity, high weight, relatively high cost of material and construction costs.

1. Natural wood, environmentally friendly, due to its porous structure, has good thermal insulation and breathability, has a small specific gravity. In our latitudes, it is an affordable and relatively inexpensive building material; the construction of walls takes a little time. However, a long time is required for shrinkage and shrinkage of a log house, practical skills are required for construction, a tree has an increased fire hazard, it does not resist water well, it is unstable against mold, rodents and various pests.
2. The advantages of frame-panel construction lies in the simplicity and high speed of construction of such objects, their mobility and versatility. If necessary, the bath can be converted into a barn, living quarters, or even moved to another place. In general, this relatively new method has recently begun to gain popularity, and you can learn more about it from the materials on how to build a shield bath with your own hands.
3. Structures made of lightweight concrete or wood concrete, which replaced foam concrete, are structures made of blocks made from a mixture of chopped wood-fiber materials with cement mortar. This relatively new material combines the properties of natural wood and monolithic brick. It is characterized by high strength, durability, fire resistance, low specific gravity, good thermal insulation and breathability, resistance to moisture, rodents and mold fungus. However, it is better to protect it from direct contact with water.

Based on the above characteristics, everyone can make the best decision for themselves what to build a bath from.

Sauna stove

As you know, one of the most important elements of any bath is its oven. From ancient times, and until today, the most widespread is a brick stove-heater, which is heated by wood or coal.

The furnace of such a furnace, made of refractory bricks, has thick-walled metal grates in its lower part, through which, from the blowing compartment, air is supplied to the furnace, which ensures stable combustion of the fuel and a quick temperature rise.

There are some features that are not inherent in a conventional home stove.

• The stove is usually equipped in such a way that it simultaneously heats the steam room, the washing department, and the rest room, which is often combined with a dressing room.
• From the side of the washing department, a heat exchanger enters the oven, into which cold water is supplied from below, heating up, goes up, and enters the hot water tank. Thus, constantly circulating, it heats up to a high temperature.
• From the side of the steam room, on the stove there is a compartment for stones. In the process of heating the stove, the stones are heated, and during the adoption of bath procedures, after supplying small portions of water to them, they give off heat in the form of superheated water vapor to the steam room, which is the whole process of soaring. The more stones on the stove, the longer the bath can keep warm.

With good insulation, it makes sense to use electric heaters, the price of which will be lower than the cost of building and operating a wood-burning stove. In them, the stones are heated by the heat of powerful electric heaters.

The advantages of such stoves are ease of installation and operation, fairly quick heating of the room, no need for firewood, periodic fuel tossing. Also, they are lightweight and compact in size.

Of the negative qualities of such stoves, it should be noted their high consumption of electricity, and in some cases, their operation requires a three-phase power supply, which is not available in every country house.

Note! requires the arrangement of a separate foundation for it, in no way connected with the supporting foundation of the bath. For electric ovens, its installation is not required.

Engineering communications equipment

In order for the bath to serve as a full-fledged resting place and satisfy all the needs of sanitary and hygienic procedures, it must be equipped with all the necessary communications.

The water supply can be brought using an ordinary metal-plastic pipe, laying it underground in a protective sheath with thermal insulation.

Sewerage also needs to be equipped with an underground laying of a plastic pipe for outdoor use, connecting it to the common drain manifold of the house, and directing the drain from the bath to the septic tank.

The supply of electricity can be performed using both underground and overhead cable power lines. For this purpose, you need to use a special cable of a suitable cross section, connecting it after installation to the switchboard of your house.

Conclusion

Many owners of suburban areas are concerned about the question: how to quickly build a bathhouse with your own hands? This article, as well as other materials on similar topics, is aimed at helping readers get an answer to their question. If this theoretical material is not enough, you can watch the video in this article.

Bath, built in Russian traditions, is considered an ideal place to cleanse the soul and body. Regularly visiting it, it is possible to maintain health, preserve youth and get real pleasure. It is not surprising that many decide to build a Russian-style bathhouse with their own hands.

Features of the Russian bath

The Russian bathhouse, which was built by our ancestors, includes two sections: a dressing room and a steam room. The largest size of this room is 2.3x4 m, the smallest is 5x6 m. Baths with such dimensions are again popular.

1 - dressing room; 2 - steam room and washing; 3 - shelves; 4 - oven

The device of a primordially Russian bath implies:

• creation of an unburied columnar foundation based on boulders, devoid of a base;
• the assembly of a log house from selected wild logs, that is, material that has not been subjected to any treatment other than removing the bark and drying;
• construction without the use of nails;
• plugging cracks with moss and tow;
• installation of a floor ceiling;
• insulation of floor and ceiling coverings with moss and peat;
• waterproofing the structure with resin and shoe pitch;
• making a sod or shingle roof;
• building a brick oven.

Preparation for construction: drawings and dimensions

When drafting a bathhouse, one should not forget that several people will use the steam room and the washing room at once. Therefore, the area and dimensions of the bath should be determined without making serious mistakes.

The second version of the bath differs in the arrangement of the shower

To make it convenient for each user to be in the bath room, he needs to allocate at least 1.8 m² in the dressing room and 1.5 m² in the steam room. The average indicator of the total useful area of ​​​​a bath for a family is 10 m². At the same time, most of the space should be in the dressing room, and less - in the steam room and washing department.

In order to wash in Russian people of any height could, the ceiling should be built at a height of 2.4 meters.

When determining the height of the ceiling, take into account that the building will soon sit down

At the planning stage of the building, it is necessary to reflect in the drawing the area for arranging the vestibule. This room may be needed as a place to block the path of cold air from the street.

For a vestibule, 2.32 sq. m

Adherents of traditions are advised to build a bath from high-quality coniferous wood. This material is not fragile, and most importantly - it lasts a long time. And the needles are also environmentally friendly and have low thermal conductivity, that is, they do not release heat and at the same time interfere with air exchange. The unique property of this tree is considered resistance to various manifestations of the climate.

Such a wooden building should stand on a solid foundation.

For construction, you can take one of two types of coniferous wood:

1. round logs;
2. whole bars.

Experienced builders advise building a bath from beams, since this material is cheaper, and it is much easier to build walls from it. In addition, the timber construction perfectly manages without a bulky foundation.

The timber structure looks simple, but it is easy to assemble

If you opt for rounded logs, then you can be severely disappointed: a log structure settles for a long time, which is why it will not be possible to put it into operation earlier than a year and a half after construction. Unlike a log bath, a timber building can be safely used six months after the completion of construction work.

When buying beams, you should use a tape measure to check the material for compliance with the specified dimensions, and then make sure that the building materials are of good quality. To do this, do the following:

List of materials and tools

To build a Russian bath, you need to stock up not only with beams and bricks, but also:

To carry out construction tasks, you should arm yourself with:

Do-it-yourself step-by-step construction of an object

Construction is taking place in stages:

1. along the perimeter of the future structure and under its load-bearing internal walls, pits are created to form a strip foundation;
2. sand is poured onto the bottom of the trench, the finished “pillow” is pressed and watered;
3. the pits are filled with reinforcing bars and liquid concrete, the layer of which is smoothed with cement mortar;

   Before pouring concrete from the boards, formwork is being built.

4. concrete forms the base for a brick oven;
5. several layers of waterproofing material treated with bituminous mastic are placed on the platform;
6. they assemble a log house, connecting the beams according to the method “at the corners into a paw, and the ends into half a tree without a trace”, laying a heater between them and setting each row at a distance of 20 cm from the edge of the dowel;

   The corners are connected in 4 steps, and the ends in 3 steps

7. prepare a platform for the floor, that is, pour a 10 cm layer of sand, press it, and then cover with a 10 cm layer of crushed stone;
8. crushed stone is covered with sheets of roofing material, adjoining edges for several centimeters;
9. cement is placed on the roofing material, creating a screed with a slope, thereby arranging the flow of waste water towards the sewer pipe built into the ground and leading to a separately dug pit;
10. a facing material is glued to the hardened cement screed, on top of which a wooden crate is placed;

    Wooden crates on the floor keep your feet from touching the cold floor

11. floor beams are attached to the upper bars of the walls in a horizontal position;
12. the installed beams are connected with iron brackets to the rafters - thick bars;
13. fasten the rafter legs to each other using ridge bars;
14. the rafters are covered with a rolled waterproofing sheet and wooden flooring - the basis for the roofing material;
15. create a ceiling, that is, non-bearing walls lay out boards every 2.5 meters;
16. a vapor barrier film is laid on top of the ceiling ceilings and heat-insulating material is laid.

Finishing

Finishing work begins after shrinkage of the structure. First of all, all surfaces inside the bath are covered with an antiseptic composition.

Interior decoration includes the following tasks:

1. installation of the crate directly on the walls and ceiling;
2. laying in the gaps of the crate of insulation and vapor barrier material;
3. flooring lining or other facing material.

Lining is laid on the ceiling and wall

If only lining has become the most popular building material for the interior decoration of the bath, then many materials are in demand for facing the exterior walls of the building:

• vinyl or metal siding;
• plastic lining;
• block house imitating the look of a log house;
• edged or unedged boards, characterized by a low price.

The material extends the life of the structure

Search for stones for a bath room

In the steam room, it is customary to use igneous rocks. Formed during a volcanic eruption, they are resistant to extreme heat. The igneous rocks that positively affect the energy forces of a person include:

• polished or chipped jadeite, the main feature of which is beauty;
• talc chloride, which is able to absorb moisture and, evaporating it, create the necessary steam in the bath;
• basalt that can withstand high temperatures.

In addition to the benefits, this stone gives aesthetic pleasure.

Metamorphic rocks can be laid on the stove, which tend to normalize blood composition and improve well-being. We are talking about such stones as:

• white quartz, called hot ice, which releases ozone when cooled sharply;
• crimson quartzite, the second name of which is the royal stone.

Such a stone is ideally combined with brickwork.

To create steam in the bath, you can use full-crystalline rocks, for example:

• dunit;
• serpentinite.

These stones are able to regenerate the cells of the nervous system, increase immune strength and have a beneficial effect on the functioning of the thyroid gland.

The length of such a stone is about 20 cm

If you want to move away from traditions, then it is better to use cast-iron stones - balls produced by industry - as steam generators in the bath. They instantly heat the room and keep warm for long hours. True, cast-iron stones undergo rusting after a short service life and carry no properties useful to humans.

Definitely it is impossible to put stones of sedimentary and siliceous rock on the stove. Their structure is porous, which means that, when cooled sharply, they become covered with cracks and small particles scatter in a zone of one meter.

Exploitation

The main requirement for using a bath is to create the right temperature. In the steam room, this physical value should be within 55–77 degrees. The temperature indicator is selected individually, that is, it depends on the preferences of the owner of the bath. It is customary to heat the washing room up to 40 °, and the rest room - up to 20 °.

In order for the bath to serve for a long time and properly, you need to use it according to the rules:

• put into the furnace only any dry fuel, except for firewood from coniferous wood;
• keep the combustion chamber door closed, thereby avoiding the escape of hot sparks;
• do not allow the chimney to glow until it turns red;
• do not touch hot surfaces, including the walls of the tank for heating water;
• keep the bathrooms clean;
• ventilate the bath sectors after each firebox for four hours;
• try not to splash water on the glass surfaces in the room (windows and doors);
• clean and inspect the chimney for holes at least once a quarter.

The owner of the bath will have to carefully care for wooden surfaces. Elements inside the bath, made of wood, are supposed to be coated twice a year with special agents to protect against fungi and decay. External processing of the wooden walls of the building is recommended after two years of operation. To do this, it is better to use antiseptics, which include wax.

Wood deteriorates over time and therefore needs careful maintenance.

In order for the stove of the Russian bath to give the right amount of heat, one must be able to regulate the traction force. To do this, more or less open the door of the chamber for the accumulation of ash. Excessive draft will cause the furnace to heat up too much, and this will bring the equipment out of service. If the force that causes air to enter the furnace is normalized, then the stones in the bath are heated to a standard temperature.

During the combustion of the furnace, the operation of the chimney should be monitored. Firewood consumption can be minimized, and the efficiency of heat supply can be increased, just not completely covering the chimney damper. But this is allowed to be done only after the absolute closure of the ash chamber.

Video: building a bath from scratch

You can get real joy from the construction of a Russian bath. It is clear that this work is impossible without skills and labor, but the result causes pride. This feeling is even stronger if the object was built on its own.