Flowing water heater in the bath. Water heater for a bath: advice and recommendations from the masters. Requirements for bulk water heaters

If a sauna stove with a heat exchanger is installed in the steam room, then there will be no need to spend additional funds on installing a boiler, which is required to heat water. Such designs are the most optimal options, due to the fact that they not only heat the room, but also provide the owners with hot water.

Principle of operation

If you decide to install a stove for a bath with a heat exchanger, then you first need to familiarize yourself with the principle of operation of this device. Heat exchangers are also called water circuits. Regardless of where they are located, they function according to the same principle. Thermal energy from the furnace is supplied to the jacket or to the register. The coolant, which is in the heat exchanger, begins to heat up. The water in the tank has a temperature below room temperature or slightly above. Due to this difference, pressure arises in the circuit, which promotes the circulation of the coolant. Thus, heated water enters the tank. From it, the coolant is consumed for hygienic procedures. After that, another portion of cold water enters the container. It is transferred to the heat exchanger, where it is subsequently heated. In the event that the system is of a closed type, which involves the operation of the tank as a heating device, then water should be poured even before the stove is ignited. In this case, the temperature difference can cause deformation and damage to the metal of the heat exchanger. The circulation will continue as long as a sufficiently high temperature is maintained in the structure. If you install a sauna stove with a heat exchanger, then there will be no need to install a water heater that is installed in the shower room. Among other things, the owners will not face the issue of arranging heat sources in the premises.

What you should pay attention to?

Owners of private baths sometimes face the problem that water cannot move by gravity. This process can only be partially hampered. In this case, the circuit must be supplemented with a circulation pump. It is important to remember before carrying out such work that the system, although it will become efficient, will be volatile.

Furnace installation

If you decide to choose a stove for a bath with a heat exchanger, then it is important to first familiarize yourself with the technology of its installation. Installation work is carried out after the arrangement of the foundation, which must be poured into the ground by 40 centimeters. The base should rise above ground level, however, the base of the floor should be guided by this. The stove must be enclosed with brickwork, which is equipped with clay mortar. A heat exchanger should be installed in the furnace room. The firebox must be brought out into a pre-made hole, which will be located in the log cabin of the bath.

When installing the stove in a bath with a heat exchanger, heated water will flow into the tank or connected radiators. In the latter case, pipes should be used, which should be wrapped with thermal insulation. The chimney must be brought out through a pre-arranged hole in the roof. It is closed with a steel sheet in which a cutout is made. The resulting joints must be well sealed.

A few words about connection

If you have chosen a stove for a bath with a heat exchanger and a water tank, then you need to learn the moment that the design is primarily intended for heating the steam room, the secondary task is to heat the water. It will be impossible to manage several processes at the same time. The steam room is a priority. For this reason, it is necessary to provide heat extraction and find a good storage capacity. It is advisable to equip the system in such a way that hot water drains by gravity, without using a circulation pump.

If the heat exchanger has the form of an economizer or a coil, then it is necessary to install an external tank in the bath, mounting it above the level of the furnace. For the installation of this system, it is permissible to use metal or polymer pipes, but polyethylene should not be used. The diameter of pipelines and networks where water flows by gravity must be chosen so that the indicator is not less than the dimensions of the heater nozzles. It is best that the diameter is one size larger. In this case, the step from the tank to the heating equipment should not be more than three meters.

Independent production of a heat exchanger

If you decide to prefer a sauna stove with a heat exchanger for water, then the last component can be made independently. To do this, prepare a metal whose thickness is 2.5 mm. The cylindrical container located on top must be connected to the lower rectangular container. In this case, pipes should be used. The main condition for performing these manipulations is to ensure that all mating seams with the smallest gaps. The dimensions of the steel furnace itself, as well as the diameter of the pipes, must be selected in accordance with the dimensions of the steam room.

The nuances of the work

If you are making a fireplace stove with a heat exchanger, then the prepared cut blanks that are cut from a metal sheet must be fixed by welding. After all the calculations have been made, and you are completely convinced that there are no errors in them, you can finally assemble the entire system. After final assembly, the system should be checked for strength. In this case, the following technology can be used. The lower pipe must be welded, and then filled with water to the very top. The outlet must be connected to the container. Compressed air is then pumped in, and the pressure gauge allows you to analyze the pressure. With high-quality seams, there will be no leakage. If places were identified through which water seeps, then the liquid must be drained in order to re-brew the errors. It is important to consider when carrying out such work that the total length of the pipes should be minimal.

If you have chosen a stove for a bath with a heat exchanger for heating, then it is important to consider that it will be much more difficult to install a water circuit in a furnace or gas duct compared to the case when the heat exchanger is included with the metal stove being purchased. In the first case, the register must be made in advance, using a thick-walled black pipe or stainless steel. If you make a circuit with a small exchange surface, then the coolant will constantly boil, this must be excluded. While excessively large sizes, on the contrary, will cause a long warm-up. Ultimately, when you need to use the water, it will remain cool. That is why it is so important to make a contour with an optimal exchange surface.

Conclusion

If the fireplace stove with a heat exchanger is installed correctly, then such a design will last for quite a long time, without assuming the need for repair work.

How to ensure the heating of water in the bath

The question of how to equip the heating of water in the bath arises immediately after you have brought the water supply there. Over the entire history of the operation of baths, several more or less effective methods of heating water have been developed, from which you can choose the method that will suit the characteristics of your steam room.

So, we list these methods and tell you more about how to heat water in a bath.

Choosing a water heating method

Over the entire history of the operation of baths, the following methods for arranging water heating can be distinguished:

• Installation of a wood column;
• Installation of a large capacity electric water heater;
• Installation of a geyser connected either to a centralized gas distribution line or to a replaceable cylinder;
• Use of a water heating system in a container installed on the hot water pipe of the bath from stove heating;
• Hybrid system with heating from the stove heating water pipe when the heating boiler is in operation, and from additional electric heating elements when the boiler is not in operation.

Despite the variety of these methods, the most popular is heating water in a bath using wood and gas water heaters and electric heaters. I must say that all these devices work only if there is a constant supply of running water in the pipeline.

Wood column-shower

Hot water shower columns (wood boilers, titans) are devices designed to heat water. The unit is characterized by a simple design and is a metal tank mounted on a furnace.

The tank is equipped with inlet pipes and a mixer to ensure a comfortable water supply temperature.

Boilers of this type are universal equipment adapted to the use of any type of solid fuel. But, despite this versatility, the device only works if there is a constant supply of water.

The principle of operation is as follows: cold water, entering the boiler tank from the outside, creates pressure and thus displaces hot water.

Regardless of the displacement of the boiler, its dimensions can be called compact, since the tank is a cylinder extended upwards. Due to its characteristic shape, titanium does not take up much free space in the washing room.

Wood boilers in a bath with heated water can be of several types:

• with built-in firebox;
• with a separate firebox;
• with backup electric heater.

Equipment of all three types is presented on the market by products of a domestic manufacturer and enterprises located in the territory of the post-Soviet space.

In the event that your bath does not provide for the presence of running water, you will need a working accumulator. As the latter, a water tank installed on a hill can be used. The connecting pipe must be selected in such a way that the appropriate pressure is ensured.

Important: This unit is mounted on a solid, mechanically resistant floor base.
Therefore, if you install titanium with your own hands, make sure that a flat cement pad is made under it, at least a meter per meter.

Geyser

Modern types of stoves for a bath with water heating, first of all, are evaluated by the level of efficiency and by the degree of fuel consumption. In accordance with these indicators, the best heater is a column that runs on natural gas.

Important: To ensure proper safety, the installation of a gas heater must be agreed with the employees of the gas facilities.
Moreover, the coordination should take place not after, but before the purchase of the device, since not all gas heaters of running water are certified for operation indoors.

Among the advantages of this method, we note the following:

1. Profitability, since the price of natural gas is still low;
2. Operational safety, as modern heaters are equipped with protective automatic shutdown systems;
3. Simple instructions for use, since, unlike wood-burning counterparts, there is no need to regularly add fuel;
4. Possibility of fast heating of water;
5. The compact dimensions of the device in comparison with the size of storage boilers.

Geysers are structurally simple units, the main elements of which are a burner and a radiator coil located above it, through which water passes.

As the water flows through the coil, the surface area to be heated increases compared to if a straight pipe were passed over the burner. Temperature control is carried out by means of a valve that increases or decreases the intensity of gas combustion.

Electric heaters

Electric heaters for baths are divided into two main types:

• storage boilers;
• Flow heaters.

If you live in an area with an unstable supply of electricity to the bath, it is advisable to install a storage boiler. Such a device is a heat-insulated metal container with a volume of 30 to 200 liters. A heating element and a thermometer are installed inside the tank.

Among the advantages of such a heater, we note the following:

• Operational safety due to high-quality insulation of conductive elements and due to the fact that when the water is fully heated, the surface of the unit remains cold;
• The possibility of operating the boiler even in the absence of electricity in the network, provided that before that the water was heated;
• Aesthetically attractive appearance of the device;
• Availability of modifications on the market with the possibility of vertical and horizontal mounting;
• Economical electricity consumption.

Running water heaters are less common units that operate on the principle of a gas column. That is, a high-power electric heater is installed inside the device, which has time to heat running water.

Among the disadvantages of such heaters, we note:

• High electricity consumption;
• Possibility of operation in the premises of baths with new powerful wiring;
  
• The need for a stable water supply, if the supply rate changes, its temperature will be uneven.

Conclusion

Now you know what methods of heating water in a bath are available today. It remains to choose what suits your needs and capabilities. You can find more useful information by watching the video in this article.

How can you heat water in a bath?

How to heat water in a bath? A question that is appropriate in a country house, where a small bathhouse also fits. It only seems quite simple at first glance, but in fact the need for a large amount of hot water requires the application of certain efforts to build the necessary structure. In principle, a heater for a sauna or a bath can be purchased ready-made and easy to install, but you can solve the problem with your own hands by building a non-standard water heater for a bath, for example, on wood.

Heating Features

The problem of most baths in a country or village house is the lack of hot water supply, which leads to the need to create systems for heating water. In principle, heating of water in a bath can be provided in two ways: separate water heating devices are installed or bath heating furnaces are used. In the first option, various standard hot water boilers can be used, for example, gas heaters or electric thermal electric heaters (TEHs), which are capable of quickly heating a large volume of water. However, such structures will have to be installed in the washing room, which creates the problem of hot water in the steam room.

The bath heating furnace is capable, in addition to the main function - heating, to provide water heating. In this case, a special tank of the required capacity (from 30 to 100 liters) with water is installed to heat the water, and the heat is used, which is still generated to heat the steam room. To maintain the desired temperature, a classic Russian version is used - on wood. Moreover, the principle of heating can be different, but it is desirable to lay it in the design of furnaces already at the design stage.

Advice from the master!

Basically, 3 systems are used: a tank on the furnace (or in close contact with it); a tank with a heat exchanger and a "samovar" tank.

Embedded system

The simplest and most common way to install a tank for heating water is to install it on one of the sides or on top of the sauna stove. Ideally, a water tank is installed inside the oven and exits simultaneously to two rooms (steam room and sink). The capacity of such a tank can be any, and the method of heating - on wood.

Another thing is if the bath heating furnace has already been built and a tank is not provided for in it. In this case, a mounted version is used (usually on the side or front in the steam room). The tank capacity is about 40-70 liters, and such a volume is heated (on firewood) in 1.2-1.6 hours. Heating can be accelerated by providing thermal insulation of the tank walls. The main disadvantage is that the tank always soars when heated, which means it will not work as a sauna heater. But for a Russian bath, this is a simple and effective way to heat water.

Advice from the master!

You can take water from such a system in various ways. The easiest method is to cover the top and scoop up the liquid with some convenient container. A more complex option involves the manufacture of a drain valve - in the upper or lower part, depending on the height of the tank.

Design with heat exchanger

If there is a need to bind a tank for heating water to a specific place away from the furnace, then a design with a heat exchanger is used. This design is based on the fact that inside the heating furnaces have a steel pipe coil through which cold water is supplied. Passing through the furnace, the liquid heats up and enters a separate container, where hot water accumulates. The volume of the tank is usually 60-80 liters and heats up within 1.6-2.2 hours.

The heat exchanger uses a well-known physical law - the cold mass goes down, and the heated liquid goes up. This determines the placement of the tank. The main advantage of the heat exchange system is that there is no need to tie the tank to the furnace. The disadvantage of the heater is a more complex design.

Pipe heater

The heater can be built on the chimney, and heating will be carried out from the upward smoke. Such a heat source can reach temperatures in excess of 500ºC, which can be put to good use before the smoke goes up the chimney. The main design problem is to ensure the tightness of the place where the chimney pipe enters the heating tank. The design itself includes a tank in which a hole for the chimney is made in the bottom. The joint must be sealed with a heat-resistant sealant or a clay-lime-sand mortar.

The main advantage of the "samovar" system is the use of uselessly outgoing energy for the benefit of business. In addition, the sufficiently high location of the tank makes it possible to use it as a shower, if you install the appropriate water spray.

Advice from the master!

The big disadvantage is the complexity of the design and the more difficult filling of water, taking into account the height of the top cover.

Material selection

The choice of material for the heating tank only seems simple. The most common option is steel. The main advantage is low cost and ease of manufacture using conventional welding operations. However, in the conditions of a Russian bath at a constant high temperature, high humidity and exposure to superheated steam, this material quickly rusts, and its service life is short. In addition, water in a rusty container may acquire an appropriate shade. Protection with paint coatings will not pass due to the risk of fire on contact with a heated oven. The painted structure can be applied in a system with a heat exchanger.

Another option is cast iron. In a cast-iron container, the water warms up for a long time, but it also cools for a long time, which makes it possible to retain heat even after the stove is fired. Disadvantages - high weight, high price and corrosion problems.

The best option is stainless steel. Of course, it is much more expensive than ordinary steel sheet, but it does not corrode and can last for many years. The most common steel grades for the manufacture of bath heating tanks are 8-12X18H10 (304) and 08X17 (430). Stainless containers are quite light, have excellent thermal conductivity, and the deformation coefficient during sharp temperature fluctuations is negligible.

In principle, it is possible to use ready-made enameled tanks. However, such containers are good as long as the enamelled protective coating is intact. With the appearance of the slightest chips, active corrosion begins. This means that enameled tanks require increased care during operation, which is very difficult to provide.

The question of how to heat water in a bath is decided independently, based on specific conditions. The easiest option is to install a standard tank with heating elements and manually deliver it in small containers to the destination.

Advice from the master!

A more traditional way is to use the energy of an already supplied sauna stove. Which option to choose depends on the owner of the bath.

The presence of water in the bath significantly increases the comfort of taking water procedures and facilitates the preparation of the bath. In addition, there is no need to allocate special places in the premises for water tanks, there is no need to periodically fill these tanks with water.

In the absence of plumbing, the barrels are filled with water with a margin, the excess after the bath is poured onto the floor, otherwise it will freeze in winter and the ice will damage the containers, and in summer, as a result of prolonged standing of water, various microorganisms and bacteria multiply in it - the water acquires an unpleasant color and smell.

There is another plus of plumbing in the bath - the amount of water poured under the bath is significantly reduced, and this is always a problem for wooden structures and foundations.

Water supply in the bath is convenient and economical

How can you bring water into the bath with your own hands, what equipment is required for this and what construction work should be done? In order to make the best decision in each case, you should familiarize yourself with the existing types and schemes of bath water supply.

Types of water supply

Depending on the frequency of use of the bath, water supply can be summer or all-weather.

Summer water supply

The easiest, but also the most inconvenient way of water supply.

Advantages

Water pipes are laid on the surface of the site, it is not required to perform a large amount of earthwork for digging trenches. You can use cheap soft hoses, the number of expensive plumbing fixtures is significantly reduced, hoses can be laid along the shortest route from the water source to the bath. And the main advantage is the cheapness of arranging summer water supply.

disadvantages

Every season, the hoses must be removed to a warm room, the surface pipes must be completely drained of water. If night frosts suddenly hit, then hoses and pipes can fail, and a considerable amount of money will be required to buy new ones. But the main drawback is the inability to take bath procedures in winter. If there is a need to use the bath in the winter, then you need to install containers under the water in the premises and carry it in buckets.

Summer water supply is done in extreme cases, and then only as a temporary solution to the problem. There are several reasons that do not allow you to immediately make a winter supply of water, and this is not only a lack of finance. For example, construction work may continue at other sites on the site, which does not allow digging trenches in the necessary places or it is possible to connect to general engineering networks, but it takes time to agree on various permits, etc.

As practice shows, even those owners of baths, who at first did summer water supply, over time, must redo it for winter. Therefore, we advise you to immediately make a winter version, do not waste time and money on temporary water pipes.

Advantages

The main thing is the uninterrupted availability of water at any time of the year. There is no need to monitor the air temperature and worry about the safety of pipes and hoses during sudden frosts. In addition, there is no time wasted on the periodic dismantling of equipment and its reconnection.

disadvantages

The main disadvantage is the increase in the estimated cost of work and purchase of equipment. The second drawback is a rather large amount of excavation work and the occurrence of problems associated with such work.

Conclusion - still do winter water supply, in the end it will give you the opportunity to save money and time. It is better to spend money on real water supply once than to first install a temporary one, and then switch to winter anyway.

Now consider what equipment is used to supply the bath.

Pumps and pipes for water supply

There are a huge number of household pumps for supplying water, they differ widely in technical characteristics. When choosing a specific model and type, it is necessary to take into account the individual characteristics of the water supply of the bath: the depth of water intake, the height of the supply, the length of the pipelines and the need to automate the water intake. Consider each type of pump in more detail.

float

Are established on a surface of a water intake of open sources of water: a pond, the river or a well. Suitable only for summer water supply.

disadvantages- relatively low power and the absence of built-in automatic on / off systems, they can only work at positive temperatures, they require the installation of containers under water.

Advantages- independence from the water level in the source, float pumps float on the surface of the water intake, the suction pipe is always under water, it rises / falls with it.

Submersible

They are immersed under water to a shallow depth, after immersion they are fixed with stainless steel cables or strong polyamide ropes.

Advantages- use at negative temperatures is allowed - they are constantly under the surface of the water.

The same advantage can be disadvantage- with a significant decrease in the water level in the source, the suction pipe is exposed, the pump stops. They do not differ in high power, require separate water storage devices, do not have built-in control electronics.

Float and submersible pumps, unlike other types, can supply water with flexible hoses; they do not have vacuum lines. As for automation, it can be done independently or purchased separately in specialized stores. These two types of pumps are among the cheapest and are used mainly during the installation of the summer bath water supply. They are easy to maintain and repair, they are always in the zone of quick access.

Pretty new equipment, universal use.

Advantages

They have built-in on / off automatics depending on the pressure in the accumulator - it is possible to connect any equipment, the water pressure has stable performance. They are significantly superior in power to those described above, they do not require additional water tanks. They can both suck in water from a certain depth, and supply it to a calculated height. When choosing a specific brand, carefully study the instructions for the pumps, pay attention to the suction depth and delivery height, these are very important criteria. Pumps with hydraulic accumulators can take water from both open sources and shallow wells.

disadvantages

Rather high cost, installation is allowed only in warm rooms. If there is a possibility of freezing of the bath, then you need to resolve issues with the insulation of the pump or drain the water from it. It takes quite a long time to drain / fill water, in addition, it will be necessary to install additional water shut-off valves to drain water from vertical risers of pipelines. Another drawback is that the units are quite noisy, the constant switching on / off of the electric motor can cause discomfort.

deep

The most expensive, reliable and powerful pumps. They are used for installation in deep wells, have their own multi-stage protection against silting and short circuits. It is not economically viable to use for only one bath; it is recommended to purchase such pumps for plumbing in all buildings available in the summer cottage. Flaw- a water storage tank is required, in most cases a Rozhnovsky water tower is used for this purpose.

Downhole pumps are lowered into wells only on metal pipes, the use of plastic ones is excluded.

Where can you get water

SourceDescriptionIllustration

Open sources: river or pond.	Unless, of course, they are on the site. Benefits - zero cost. Disadvantages - there may be issues with water quality, the risks of pump clogging increase.
For most baths - the best solution. The quality is suitable for cooking - water from wells can be used not only for a bath, but also for a residential building.
They can be shallow (on sand) or deep (on limestone). The gubina of the first does not exceed 20 meters, the specific values ​​​​depend on the geodetic features of the area and the water balance of the soil. The advantages of small wells are relatively low cost. Disadvantages - low water debit, high risks of mudding the well and clogging the pump. If water is taken from wells regularly, the risks of silting are reduced, the sludge is sucked up by the pump, the strainer is cleaned. But if the well is used very rarely, then silting occurs quickly. The second wells have the highest performance in all respects. But they also have a significant drawback - the high cost of work. The drilling depth can be several tens of meters or more.

When choosing a specific water intake site, take into account the maximum number of individual factors - this is an axiom of any planning. Our extra tip is to plan a few steps ahead, don't live for today. If at the moment it is enough for you to take water for a bath from a pond, then keep in mind that in a few years no one will want to use such water. Why do the same job twice? Do a normal water supply right away, this will greatly expand its capabilities.

How to make a bath water supply with your own hands

Consider one of the options that is quite successful in all respects - a winter water supply from a well using a pumping station and a hydraulic accumulator.

Step 1. Preliminary planning and purchase of equipment.

First of all, draw a diagram of the plumbing. Indicate exactly where the pumping station will be installed in the bathhouse, to which consumers the water is connected, from where the intake is made. We are considering the case when there is already a well on the site, if it is not there, you will have to dig. These are quite complex works, we will tell you how to properly dig a well in our next article.

An additional filter must be installed near the pump. The pump has one filter as standard on the submersible check valve, but the mesh sizes can only hold coarse sand. And the pump is also afraid of small abrasive particles, such a filter does not catch them.

Video - Filter for a pump in a well, well

Video - Calculation of a pump for water supply

For water supply, you can use flexible polyethylene pipes connected by collapsible couplings or plastic pipes connected by a special welding machine.

We recommend using the first option for laying pipes in a trench, such connections are quite reliable, in the event of breaking loads, the pipe is slightly pulled out of the rubber seal, this is provided for by the coupling device. The tightness of the connection is not broken, which is very important if the water supply is in a trench.

In the bath, you can use plastic pipes, to connect them you need to have a special welding machine, it is inexpensive, it will always come in handy on the farm. The diameter of the intake and main pipes is at least two inches, the wiring around the room can be done with pipes of a smaller diameter. To change from one pipe diameter to another, use special adapters.

Now you can go to the store, experienced sales assistants will give you additional advice on the optimal configuration of the selected equipment. The configuration depends on the manufacturer and type of equipment.

The expansion tank (hydraulic accumulator) is horizontal. Calculation of the accumulator

The fact is that those installed at the pumping station have a small storage volume, in most cases it does not exceed five liters. It is impossible to say more precisely, the volume of accumulated water depends on the set pressure. A small supply of water causes frequent switching on / off of the electric motor. This creates discomfort and adversely affects the stator and rotor windings. For a bath, it is quite enough to install an additional fifty-liter hydraulic accumulator.

Step 2. Mark out and dig a trench

Try not to lay the pipe in places where other buildings are planned in the future. Your pipe, of course, is not a gas pipeline, but you should not create additional difficulties for yourself. The depth of the trench is not lower than the freezing level of the soil. In order to eliminate the risks of damage to plastic pipes by stones, a sand cushion about 5 centimeters thick should be poured into the bottom of the trench, and the pipes are also covered from above with sand first, and then with earth. If your land does not have stones, you can not do sand protection.

Dig one of the rings of the well, using a perforator, make a through hole in the ring for the pipe, the hole should be 10 ÷ 20 centimeters above the water level. The dimensions of the hole should allow you to work in it with your hands; before filling the trench with earth, a large hole will be closed with any piece of thick-walled galvanized metal or plastic. The entry of the pipeline into the bath depends on the type of foundation; the tape will have to be dug up.

The open section of the pipe from the ground to the floor of the bath must be carefully insulated. There are excellent industrial heaters for pipelines, but we recommend strengthening them - making a wooden box around the pipe and filling it with glass wool. The dimensions of the box along the perimeter are at least 50 × 50 centimeters.

Step 3. Measure the water depth in the well

To do this, you need to tie any load to the end of a long rope and lower it into the well until it stops with the bottom. Cut the vertical riser in such a way that the grid of the non-return valve does not reach the bottom of 20÷30 cm. This is necessary so that during seasonal fluctuations in the water level, the valve is always in the water. A slight rise above the bottom will prevent the mule from being sucked in.

Step 4. Lower the intake pipe into the well

Complete with the pump, a check valve with a strainer is implemented, fix it at the end of the pipe section.

Important. Do not purchase Chinese plastic check valves. They work no more than a year, low-quality plastic breaks. To replace the check valve, you will have to dig a trench. This is quite difficult even in summer, but what if a breakdown happens in winter? Responsible manufacturers make such valves from bronze or brass, buy only them.

A plastic pipe can be cut with a hacksaw or grinder. For deburring and chamfering, special devices are sold in stores, but you should not buy them. The fact is that they can only chamfer if the cut is perfectly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe, it is impossible to achieve this manually. The chamfer is perfectly removed with a sharp knife or is done with a grinder from the flat side of the disc. Without a chamfer, the rubber seal of the coupling can be damaged, and even a slight air leak can cause the pump to fail. You will have to look for a place for suction and change the coupling or o-rings.

The vertical intake pipe is connected to a horizontal connecting elbow, it is quite inconvenient to do this, you have to stick both hands into the hole in the concrete ring of the well. Make sure the connection is absolutely tight.

Video - Pump installation

Step 5. Attach a horizontal pipe to the elbow outlet that lies in the trench

Step 6. The pumping station needs to be insulated

We recommend additionally preparing a pit in the ground for it, this will significantly reduce the risk of freezing. The pit should be closed with a tight lid, all surfaces can be upholstered with sheets of foam about ten centimeters thick.

The pipe is brought to the pump, the pump is installed in the bath. This completes the external work, you can make internal piping. For internal wiring, it is better to use plastic pipes, the connection is made with a special welding machine.

Until the trench is backfilled, you need to check the operation of the pump. Pour water into it, the water should fill the entire pipeline in the trench and displace the air. This can take quite a lot of time. During the first start-up of the pump, pumping should be facilitated, there may still be air in the pipes, the pump should expel it. Before turning on the engine, open the valve from the accumulator, let the water and air escape without pressure. In this way, you will be able to speed up the pumping of the pipeline, completely remove air from the system and reduce the load on the pump.

Important. When laying a pipeline in a trench, try to keep it lying evenly along the entire route. Otherwise, air congestion will inevitably appear, it will be difficult to remove them.

Video - Selection, piping and installation of the pump in the well

How to regulate the pumping station

The accumulator pump can be adjusted for engine on/off pressure. Factory settings do not quite meet the requirements of the bath, they are designed to connect household appliances operating at a water pressure of about 2.2 atm. We recommend reducing the pressure, this will significantly reduce the load on the engine and increase the capacity of the hydraulic accumulator. How it's done?

1. Remove the terminal cover, under the cover there are two adjusting bolts with springs. The large one regulates the on pressure, the small one regulates the off pressure of the pump.
2. When turning the bolts, clicks will be heard, which indicate the operation of a mechanical trigger.
3. Adjust the control bolts so that the pump turns on when the pressure drops to about 0.7 atm., and turns off when the pressure rises to 1.2 atm.

We guarantee that such simple changes in the technical characteristics of the operation will increase the life of the pump by at least one and a half times. In addition, noise during operation will be significantly reduced. Be sure to install an additional water filter before entering the pump.

Video - The first launch of a pumping station based on a submersible pump

Internal piping

It is necessary to act according to the drawn scheme, do the work slowly. The fact is that after detecting an error, the soldered connection will have to be cut off and a new one made, for this you need to use additional couplings, but they do not decorate the water supply. Do not weld all the segments in a row, sometimes you need to skip one connection, weld the next, and then return to the previous one. It is impossible to tell all the solutions in the article, especially without knowing your scheme. Again, we repeat the previous advice - think a few steps or technological operations ahead.

Organization of hot water supply in the bath

The need for hot water during washing procedures exists at any time of the year. It is possible to ensure its presence in the bath, using, in addition to the old-fashioned method with a stove-heater, using modern technologies.

Important! The choice of a specific method and equipment is due to the peculiarities of the site layout, the availability of engineering communications, and the seasonality of using the bath.

Organization of hot water supply from a residential building

Such a decision requires the fulfillment of a number of conditions. The main factor is the ability of the existing equipment to provide heating of a sufficient volume of water. For example, the performance of a gas boiler may be insufficient, since the consumption of water in the bath sometimes significantly exceeds the need for it in the house. And heating with electricity can lead to its unjustified overspending, at a time when the heat from a wood-burning stove will be used irrationally.

The rationality of using such a scheme must be considered taking into account the required length of communications - a large distance between buildings may require the use of a pump, which increases operating costs. It is also necessary to estimate the cost of laying a water pipe from the house - in principle, it is carried out similarly to the supply of cold water.

Autonomous hot water supply

This is the most common method in which an oven or various types of heating equipment is used for heating. In these cases, hot water is produced directly on site and its transportation from another point in the site is not required.

Advantages of installing water heaters:

• No need for a storage tank for hot water;
• Possibility of installation of the equipment in any convenient place;
• Autonomy of using the steam room and shower;
• Possibility to adjust the water temperature.

Advice! The most rational option is the device of a combined water heater with a heat exchanger connected to the furnace. This is a universal solution. The scheme allows you to separately use heating with electricity and a furnace, or simultaneously with both heat sources, which greatly speeds up the process.

According to the principle of operation, any heating equipment is divided into two types:

• Flow units increase the temperature of the water as it passes through the heat exchanger. Heating occurs quickly, but the volume of warm liquid in the container is inversely proportional to the amount consumed. That is, the more water is used when taking a shower, the faster it cools down. This type of water heaters with compact dimensions is an excellent solution for small baths.
• Storage equipment is characterized by a large volume and, accordingly, size, so it is not always possible to find a place for it in a modest bathhouse. The heating of water is slow, but it will not be possible to use it quickly.

Water heaters

Gas water heaters

Such equipment is an economical solution due to the low cost of "blue fuel". The devices can function when connected to a centralized gas pipeline or from a cylinder. Water heaters have a high capacity and are able to provide constant availability of hot water, even with its extremely active consumption. Modern equipment has a good security system, equipped with a temperature controller.

With fairly moderate operating costs, the installation of gas equipment is fraught with a number of difficulties, time and financial costs, since it requires an order and approval of a special project in the relevant authorities.

Attention! For safety reasons, the connection of gas equipment may only be carried out by specialists!

Electric water heaters

The equipment is characterized by a simple design, consisting of a tank inside which there is an electric heater, and allowing you to independently install and connect, which reduces installation costs. As a rule, electric water heaters are equipped with thermostatic devices that regulate the automation of the heating element, which saves energy and minimizes the need for human control.

Inferior in power to gas counterparts. Due to the cost of electricity, the equipment is also more expensive to operate.

Attention! An electric boiler requires the installation of an RCD that protects bath visitors from accidental electric shock! Connecting the equipment directly to the socket is prohibited!

Wood water heaters

The devices, formerly called "titans", consist of a firebox and a water tank, which heats up very quickly by burning any solid fuel, up to any combustible debris. The only exception is coal. Modern models provide a connection to the water supply, but they also function effectively from a container installed on the roof. There are water heaters that can operate on both solid fuel and electricity. They have a built-in thermostat and an electric heating element, which allows maintaining the required water temperature after heating.

Attention! Wood-burning water heaters are equipped with mixers of a special design that cannot be replaced with conventional ones.

Due to the specifics of the operation of the bath, a number of requirements are imposed on water heaters:

• The need for a large volume of hot water, which is why boilers are preferable to flow models;
• Equipment with a large tank requires a lot of time to heat up - it will have to be started 2-3 hours before the start of the procedures, which is not always convenient;
• The optimal solution is to drain directly into the sewer;
• The bath is heated periodically, so models that can automatically maintain a positive water temperature are more preferable.

There are a sufficient number of options for organizing the water supply of a bath, but there is no universal solution. For the most optimal choice of the method of heating water, an analysis of the conditions available in the bath and its own capabilities is required.

It is hard to imagine a cottage or a country house without a good bath. Naturally, the sensations after dousing with ice water are indescribable, but, nevertheless, this is only the only one of the bath procedures. Before visiting the steam room and after, in order to maintain hygiene, you will have to wash, and this will definitely require the presence of hot water. Heating water at home and delivering it to the bath in containers is far from the optimal solution. It is best to install a water heater for a bath. Moreover, a hot shower is more of a necessity in a bath than a luxury.

When installing a water supply, it should be noted that the water supply system must meet the following conditions:

• Even if you mean not a country cottage, but a house in which they live all year round, it should still be borne in mind that the bathhouse is usually not heated. This is due to the fact that the bath is not visited every day, so wasting energy can be considered wasteful. In this regard, it is necessary to protect the water supply system from freezing, which will help to make a well-arranged drain.
• Taking into account the fact that specialists are reluctant to leave the city, you need to be prepared for the fact that the operation and maintenance of the system will fall on your shoulders, therefore, when installing a water supply system, its design should be made as simple and easily accessible as possible.
• The device that is used to heat water must be installed in accordance with fire safety requirements.

Considering that the water heating device is the main element of the bath water supply, its purchase should be approached seriously and carefully. Taking into account the specific operating conditions of the water heater, increased requirements are put forward for it:

• For the normal operation of the bath, a significant amount of hot water is required, in connection with this, the use of instantaneous water heaters in the form of electric flowers and gas water heaters will be ineffective, it is better to prefer the installation of boilers or electric water heaters.
• Boilers with large tanks should not be chosen, as it will take a long time to heat the water to the desired temperature. If the tank is too large, then the boiler will have to be put into operation 2-3 hours before visiting the bath, which is not always possible.
• Draining water from the boiler tank should be as convenient and simple as possible. The best solution would be to drain directly into the sewer system.
• Taking into account the fact that the bath is heated periodically, preference should be given to such models of boilers that automatically maintain the water temperature above zero.
• For the convenience of controlling water heating, models equipped with a thermometer are best suited.

Water heaters that use natural gas as an energy carrier have proven themselves best - financial savings, in comparison with electric and solid fuel boilers, are tangible. Payment for gas is 3-4 times lower than for electricity in the same operating conditions.

Despite all the advantages of gas equipment, the main requirement is the presence of a gas pipeline. In addition, the installation of such equipment is impossible without the consent of the gas service-gas supplier. If there is no gas line nearby or simply there is no desire to bother with paperwork, then the best option would be to install an electric water heater.

Design

Basically, electric water heaters have a simple design, consisting of an electrically insulated water tank, inside which a tubular electric heater (TEH) is installed.

Rust on the walls of the boiler is not formed due to the presence of a special anode device. Most often, water heaters are equipped with thermostatic devices responsible for the automatic operation of the heating element. Such a device not only minimizes human intervention in the operation of the water heater, but also saves electrical energy.

All boilers are equipped with a safety valve that reduces pressure, thereby protecting the container from deformation and destruction. The boiler can be connected to one or more water intake points, which will replenish the volume of water as it is consumed.

The principle of operation of a storage electric water heater is based on the law of physics - when heated, hot water rises, from where it is taken. The simplicity of the boiler design makes it possible to perform independent installation and connection to water intake points, thereby reducing the cost of equipment installation.

Scheme of the device storage water heater

Usually, a boiler with a capacity of 2 - 2.5 kW is enough for a bath, connected to a single-phase power supply. The small capacity boiler does not have any special electrical requirements. To install it, you will need to lay a cable connecting the circuit breaker to the switchboard.

You will also need to install an RCD (residual current device) that protects people in the bath from accidental electric shock. It is strictly forbidden to connect the boiler directly to the outlet, especially since the design excludes the possibility of such a connection. The power cable must be connected to the contacts located on the inside of the boiler body.

Choosing water heaters for a bath should also take into account the consumption of water, the consumption of which is determined by the number of people who can visit the bath at the same time. The volume of the boiler obtained by calculation should be increased by 15-20%, but not more, since an excess of volume will lead to an overrun of electricity.

If a cottage or a country house has a fairly powerful heating and hot water supply system, then an indirect water heating boiler can be installed in the bathhouse. In such units, instead of a heating element, there is a pipe inside the boiler, which is part of the heating system.

Storage-type water heaters are not as demanding on water quality as flow-through ones, but for their reliable and long-term operation, nevertheless, it would not be superfluous to provide for the installation of water softening devices and a system of simple filters.

With the correct choice of the boiler model, compliance with the requirements for installation work on the installation of equipment and water treatment, the life of the water heater will be at least 15 years.

The bath always requires warm or hot water. Providing a bath building with a water supply system is a matter that requires a responsible approach with a careful study of the nuances of the structure, its location, frequency of use, etc. Often this aspect of water supply is solved by purchasing a boiler for a bath of a certain design, method of operation.

Ways to heat water in a bath

There are several options for equipping a bath with cold and hot water communications, the choice of which depends on:

• Duration, frequency of operation of the bath room;
• Average climatic indicators in winter;
• The heating method used;
• The number of people for which the structure is calculated;
• Required volume of water for one visit.

Hot water can be provided in the following ways:

• Build a hinged, remote tank heated by a furnace;
• Install a wood-burning water heater (Titan);
• Purchase an electric storage or instantaneous boiler;
• Install a gas water heater;
• Use water heating equipment indirectly heated by a stove or home heating system;
• Hot water supply from the domestic water supply system.

The last option is the least common, since the bath in the cold season is most often not heated. In winter, the pipes that supply water can be damaged due to the liquid frozen inside. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to lay communications at a depth of 1.5-2 m, drain the water for the winter or after each visit. A rather laborious, rarely used method. It is easier to install a mounted tank near the stove or water heating equipment.

The easiest way

Manufacturers make bath stoves with ready-made water tanks. This option is the easiest for installation, further operation. It is relevant for buildings to which gas and water supply communications are not connected, a limit on the use of electricity is determined.

Hot water tanks can be mounted in two ways:

1. The tank is placed directly on the chimney of the furnace, the liquid is heated by the heat of the smoke coming out. At the same time, the pipe can be heated to very high temperatures (500⁰ C), quickly warming up the contents of the tank. The bottom of the container is equipped with an opening equal to the cross section of the chimney pipe. It is necessary to ensure the tightness of the joints of the pipe and the tank at the inlet so that water does not flow out. The joint can be treated with a heat-resistant sealant, clay-lime-sand mortar. Cement mortar cracks when exposed to heat.
   At the same time, such placement allows you to heat the water with heat, which is usually brought out. And it is easier to install a chimney pipe inside the attic space, since excess heat is given off to water.
2. Hanging tank. It is placed on the wall on one side of the stove, most often inside the steam room (capacity 40-70 l). A wood-burning stove heats up the tank water in 1.2-1.6 hours. To speed up the process, you can insulate the tank. It is also a simple, budgetary method that does not require significant material costs, and is easy to maintain.

Placing such a tank inside the steam room is considered a disadvantage due to the large release of water vapor. For bath buildings located in the country, this is one of the few available ways to warm up water that does not require winter arrangements. An actual option for a classic Russian bath. It is not recommended to equip a sauna with such a tank.

Indirect heating boiler in the bath

When it is not possible to install a tank directly next to the oven, the boiler is placed in a convenient place, while the device heats the contents indirectly.

Structurally, the water distribution is done so that part of the pipes pass through the furnace. Cold liquid from the tank passes through the pipes, is fed to the coil inside the furnace, warms up there and flows back into the tank from above. It also uses the physical law of displacement of a hot liquid by a cold one.

As a rule, the capacitive volume of the structure is 60-80 liters, the contents warm up in 1.6-2.2 hours. The advantages of this scheme:

• Separate placement from the oven;
• It is possible to use for a sauna;
• Ease of operation;
• The minimum cost of resources.

A complicated design is a disadvantage, which is offset by ease of placement and functionality.

Boiler for a bath with a reservoir

It is also a fairly simple, yet reliable option for heating water. Structurally made of two parts:

• The lower one is designed for burning firewood, other solid fuels (but not coal);
• The upper part is a reservoir. which warms up the contents due to the heat of the chimney pipe passing inside the container.

It is connected to a cold water supply system or equipped with a separate container installed on the roof of the bath. Under the action of physical forces, the hot liquid is displaced by the heavy cold liquid during the washing process. The water tank must always be filled during use.

A wood-burning boiler for a bath with a capacity is equipped with a shower head, a faucet of a special device, which the manufacturer prohibits from changing to ordinary mixers.

Advantages of a wood-burning boiler: compactness, efficiency, ease of use, a small amount of solid fuel is required.

Accumulative, instantaneous water heaters

In addition to the above methods, it is proposed to place gas water heaters inside the bath, flow or storage. With gas communications connected, this can be done. A significant disadvantage is the complex process of assembling the entire structure and coordinating the project for installation.

For a gas boiler in the room, it is imperative to provide an exhaust system that removes the products of gas combustion to the outside. The wall on which the device is supposed to be placed must be protected with refractory materials in accordance with fire safety rules. Drawing up, coordination of the project will take some time. The advantage of a gas appliance, for which it is possible to spend time and effort, is the low cost of gas (3-4 times cheaper than electricity).

Electric water heaters are more often mounted inside the bath building due to the acceptable cost of equipment, the lack of a question of how to connect the system. To choose the type of electric boiler, you should determine the frequency of visits, the number of people, the time of year of operation.

So, it is important to use a flow device in the summer for a small number of people. In winter, cold water does not have time to warm up. For the winter period, it is advisable to use a storage electric device: there is a choice of tank capacity, power consumption.

At the same time, it must be remembered that

• The sauna building can warm up before the liquid inside the water heater. Therefore, it should be turned on 1-2 hours before the start of heating the room, which is not always convenient in country conditions;
• If there is a limitation on electricity consumption, the power of the device must be correlated with the existing limit, the number of household appliances used;
• Many storage water heaters are not designed for operation at temperatures below +5⁰ C. Violation of this condition automatically voids the manufacturer's warranty.

Boiler in the bath in winter

The boiler in the bath in winter is exposed to low temperatures, which can disable it. We list the basic rules for handling a boiler (electric) in winter, which will help maintain its performance:

• It is recommended to purchase models equipped with an additional tank heating option: the water inside will not freeze, it will not have to be drained after taking the procedures;
• The large volume of the device provides for early switching on, so you should calculate whether it is really needed. A boiler in a bath in winter uses less hot water than a similar one in everyday life;
• It is recommended to purchase a device with a lower power to comply with the limit of electricity use (for example, in a summer cottage);
• The system for draining liquid from the water heater should be convenient, going directly into the sewer drain;
• The design of the connection of the system with the boiler must be made so that the safety valve does not freeze with the remnants of undischarged liquid;
• Mount water pipes on the wall surface. Inside, hidden by panels and thermal insulation, the pipes will be covered with condensate, which will cause mold and mildew;
• It should be remembered that the constant draining of the liquid from the water heater leads to accelerated wear of the device. The magnesium anode protects the inner surface of the tank, the heating element is only in the water. An empty container with liquid residues on the walls is not protected, corrodes over time, and fails.

Friends! More interesting stuff:

How to properly use a storage water heater

The shower in the bath can be done in different ways. The simplest option is to install a pouring device (bucket), to which water is supplied.

Such a bucket-shower for a bath can be bought at a specialized store. There are models in which water is poured from an ordinary bucket, and there are those to which water is supplied from a water pipe. Turning on the supply and turning off the water is controlled by a float (a device similar to the one in the drain tanks).

Bath shower bucket

How to heat water for a shower in a bath

You can heat the water for the shower either with the help of electric heaters - a flow or storage water heater, a “wet” heating element, or using an external tank and a heat exchanger in a wood-burning stove.

A flowing water heater for a shower in a bath is a pleasure that not everyone can afford. And it's not about the price, but about the requirements that this equipment imposes on both the water supply and the electrical network. The instantaneous water heater operates at a certain pressure of cold water. This problem can be solved by installing a pump (its capacity must be at least 8 liters / min). But in any case, the water will be heated only if there is electricity, and there will be no supply of warm water - this is a running water heater. In addition, only a heater with a power of not more than 8 kW is included in the 220V network, which will provide only one point of water intake with warm water. If you need to have two hot water taps, you will need a device with a power of 13 kW, and it is powered by a 380 V network. networks is not uncommon, but neighbors are unlikely to be happy with such a turn.

More economical storage water heaters for the shower. The power they consume is usually 2-3 kW, depending on the volume of the drive, but it is difficult to find a capacity of more than 150 liters. Moreover, such a tank already has decent dimensions, although there are drives of various shapes - horizontal and vertical cylinders, there are also rectangular ones - it’s easier to find a place for them, but you still have to fool your head with its installation. A good option is to install a heater in the attic.

There is another simple way to organize hot water in a bath: a heating element is mounted in the water tank, in the simplest case, a boiler is lowered. From the tank there is an outlet either to the mixer or directly to the shower head with a tap or mixer. When connecting a hot water tank directly to a shower head, a temperature control system must be considered so as not to get burned by overheated water.

These are, in general, all options for an “electric” shower for a bath. Read more about how to choose a water heater for a bath here.

Important! When using electric heating elements, never forget about electrical safety. Even a new heating element or boiler can “punch” on the body.

There is also a typical “bath” way: to heat water in a tank using heat from a burning stove (read about stoves with water tanks here). There is a method of previous years - wood-burning titanium, which, nevertheless, is successfully used today. Here is an effective, working, real way to organize a shower in a bath without using electricity.

Scheme of arranging a shower in a bath or sauna

This scheme, with some alterations, will also work when using an external water tank, the water in which is heated from a heat exchanger in a metal or brick oven, and with a tank on a pipe (installed at a sufficient height). In general, the scheme is good. Instead of a manual pump, you can install an electric one, but then the circuit will only work if there is power.

The way to heat the water was chosen, but now it is necessary that cold and hot water be supplied to the mixers. If the hot water tank is low, pumps are provided to increase the water pressure to ensure the required pressure in the system. Shower pumps can be of several types:

• Small pumping stations are a more expensive option. But they have protective automation that will monitor the pressure in the system (it will turn off in the event of a power failure, etc.).
• Boost pumps. They also turn on automatically when the pressure in the system decreases, but the type of pump and its characteristics for each plumbing system must be selected separately. Their disadvantage is that if there is no pressure accumulator in the system, when the pump is turned on / off, the water pressure noticeably “jumps”.
• garden pumps. The cheapest option, but they do not have any automation, therefore, you need to turn them on / off manually.

If possible, it is easier to install a tank for cold and hot water in the bath on the second floor or in the attic and not bother with pumps, which are not at all easy to pick up for hot water.

Option to install a water tank at a height exceeding the height of the ceiling

Cabin and shower drain

There are many options for a shower cabin: from the simplest pipe built into the walls, along which a waterproof curtain “rides” on the rings, to an ultra-modern (or not super) shower cabin. What are the shower cabins, read here. From experience, we can say that if the booth is installed in the bath, then the most primitive - the walls, the door and the pallet, and in principle, more is not needed. This is an option for those who do not want to bother with waterproofing adjacent walls and like quick solutions.

Bath shower with titanium

In general, if the planning for the shower does not provide for a separate small room, you can fence off a part of the washing department, where a drain system should be organized. If there is no drain, you will have to arrange it.

If you plan to install a pallet, it requires a separate concrete base with a drain pipe connected. The base is necessary so that the plastic of the pallet does not “walk” under the weight of a person, since for the most part in bath showers there are plastic products - they are inexpensive and, if installed correctly, are quite durable, and plastic bends under the weight of even a not very large person.

If the pallet is not provided, and the floor is wooden, you need to protect it from water. To do this, galvanized metal is laid on the area where the shower cabin will be installed, the joints of the sheets are carefully sealed with silicone sealant (for example, Ceresit CS 25). Reinforcement for the screed is laid on the metal with a slope towards the drain, everything is poured with cement mortar. Floor tiles are laid on the fresh mortar (while maintaining the slope), and its joints are also well coated with silicone. Instead of galvanized metal, modern waterproofing films can be used. In this case, they must be reinforced.

If the walls in the shower stall are wooden, they need protection from water. You can protect them with ceramic tiles, plastic panels, or simply lay sheets of plastic of a suitable size, sealing the joints with the same silicone. Under any type of finish, it is also desirable to lay a layer of waterproofing. In the simplest case, this is a plastic film that is attached to the walls with staples from a construction stapler or planks and nails, and it is desirable to seal the resulting holes with reinforced tape.

Plastic shower panels are a budget option for protecting walls in a shower cubicle, anyone can handle installation. At the first stage, metal profiles are attached to the walls, from which the frame-lathing of the walls is assembled. Plastic panels are attached to the profiles with screws with a wide head, which are connected to each other with a lock. The connection is tight (just be careful not to damage the rather fragile edges of the locks). In the corners of the outer and inner corners, special corners are used, which are sold in the same place as the panels, skirting boards are strengthened at the top and bottom. Indeed, nothing complicated, but the view is obtained like that of a monolithic wall and protection against water is almost 100%.

The general principles of how to make a shower in the bath are outlined, and how to do it, everyone decides for himself. There are simply a lot of options here, because you can simply hang a shower bucket and tip it over, or build a full-fledged shower cabin with automatic hot water supply. Below are real photos of the shower in the bath. Maybe you'll find an idea for yourself...

Irrigation device + shower

If someone thinks that for arranging a washing room it is enough to hang two pipes with a mixer on the wall, then he is deeply mistaken. It is necessary to think about arranging a separate washing room in the bath even during the design of the building. At the same time, you should choose the final version of the shower room and think about the supply of hot and cold water. At your discretion, we will present several options for arranging flushing rooms, we hope that this knowledge will facilitate the final choice. Further in the article we will give step-by-step instructions for the most used type of wash and practical advice from professionals.

Accommodation options

The optimal location of the shower room is an adjacent room with a steam room.

The room should not be passable, if year-round use is offered, then heating should be done. It can be heated both during the heating of the bath with the help of a heat exchanger built into the boiler, and autonomously.

For autonomous heating, it is better to use ordinary safe electric heaters (quickly and cheaply) or to make water heating of all additional bath rooms.

If desired, you can put a shower in the corner of the room or simply fence off the place for taking water procedures with a sliding curtain. The specific option and size of the washing room depends on the size of the bath and the financial resources of the developers.

Floors and drainage

Water drainage must be done during the construction of the building. As a rule, water is discharged into special storage tanks with plastic or metal pipes. We advise you to make wooden floors solid, drain with slots are not recommended. The drain system and floors must be made in accordance with building codes, otherwise they may be non-functional, and the service life will be significantly reduced.

Engineering Communication

There are two options for laying engineering communications: closed under wall cladding and open. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.

Option for laying communicationsDescriptionAdvantages and disadvantages

	This refers to electrical wiring and plumbing. Work should be carried out before finishing the interior.	Advantages: all engineering networks are hidden from view, decorative characteristics are increased. Disadvantages: difficulty in performing routine technical and repair work. In the event of leakage, the wooden structures of the building can be significantly damaged.
	Installation is carried out after finishing the interior walls of the wash room.	Advantages: you can replace equipment at any time without much loss of time and financial resources. Disadvantages: the presence of various pipelines does not decorate the room.

During the installation of engineering networks, several mandatory conditions must be met.

Ways to heat water for a shower

A very important and one of the most technically difficult questions. Much depends on the frequency of using the bath or shower and the technical characteristics of engineering networks. We offer three solutions to the problem.

On this, the theoretical and preparatory part can be considered finished, you can proceed to the installation instructions.

Materials for arranging a shower

It’s not worth talking about mixers, despite the huge variety of models, there is no big difference between them, but it is advisable to remember about pipes.

Type of pipesAdvantages and disadvantages

	Pros - durability and high resistance to mechanical damage. Disadvantages - high price, difficult to assemble, it is necessary to have special welding and locksmith equipment, a large specific gravity (not all wall cladding of the washing room can be installed).
	The cheapest, plumbing installation can be completely completed in a few hours. Disadvantages - the heating temperature cannot exceed +60 ° C, the appearance is very far from modern requirements.
	Exactly what you need in every way. In terms of cost, they occupy an intermediate position, appearance and reliability fully satisfy most consumers. This is the option we recommend.

Practical advice. Foil-reinforced pipes withstand significant heating temperatures, deformation or pipeline breakthrough is completely excluded. However, polypropylene pipes without foil reinforcement do not lose their original strength characteristics when heated above +100°C. No professional has yet seen deformed pipelines in a washroom. And the price of reinforced pipes exceeds the cost of ordinary pipes by about a third.

Shower installation step by step

Among all the options for arranging a washing room, we will choose the most commonly used one. In our opinion, it can really satisfy the majority of bath owners.

Initial data. The water supply will be mounted on the skin, polypropylene pipes are used.

The supply of pipes to the washing room has already been made, shut-off valves for hot and cold water have been installed.

Pipes can be mounted under the ceiling or near the floor. There is no difference, each method has equal positive and negative sides.

Step 1. On paper, draw a diagram of the water supply, indicating the location of the mixer. Don't rush, try a few options. Consider the height of the faucet mounting, taking into account the method of supplying hot water. If it is supplied under pressure - the mixer can be placed high, when the water flows by gravity from the storage tank, then its location must be taken into account.

Step 2 Transfer your diagram to the wall. Carefully draw lines for laying pipes with a pencil, determine the distance between them. Count the number of fittings, additional elements, fasteners and valves. If the bath is not used in winter, then you need to drain the water.

Step 3 Measure the length of the pipes. Once again, calculate everything and go to the store for materials. To connect, you will need a special soldering iron, it is relatively inexpensive, and it will always come in handy on the farm. The soldering iron comes with scissors for cutting pipes.

Everything is ready - you can begin installation. Work begins with the installation of plastic supports on the wall. Depending on the distance between the pipes, single or double can be used, the supports are fixed with self-tapping screws. The distance between them is within 30 ÷ 35 cm, you should not increase it - over time, plastic pipes will sag.

Practical advice. Buy a few ordinary couplings, they can be used to correct mistakes made during measurement.

Important. All metal threaded fittings are made of stainless alloys with low physical strength. When tightening, do not apply great force, the threaded part can easily break off.

Another problem is related to low strength. If your mixer is quite heavy, then cracks will certainly appear in the joints over time due to the physical fatigue of the metal resulting from prolonged action of minor efforts. Tip - choose lighter faucet models.

These leaks, by the way, are very invisible to the eye. Water does not spurt, but only drips, it seems that the sealing of the threaded connection is poorly done. Inexperienced craftsmen begin to quickly remove the mixer and break off the end of the threaded connection, it remains in the fitting or tap (depending on the model of the mixer). It is quite difficult to unscrew a piece of a broken thread; you need to have or make special devices yourself.

The mixer will be attached to a combined coupling with an external thread, the fitting to the wall is fixed with self-tapping screws.

How to solder polypropylene pipes

Everything seems simple if you have experience, and it's scary to do soldering for the first time.

It is necessary to mark the pipes before welding (see information below)

Step 1. Screw couplers to the front of the soldering iron to heat the inside or outside of pipes and fittings. For the shower, we recommend using Ø ¾″ pipes. The pipe is heated on the outer surfaces, the connecting elements (couplings, triangles, squares, etc.) on the inner ones.

Step 2. Plug the soldering iron into a 220 V mains. There is a heating temperature controller and two indicator lights on the body of the device. Green indicates that the soldering iron is ready for work, red indicates that the heating temperature is insufficient.

Turn on the soldering iron and wait until the green light turns on

Step 3. Set the temperature controller to +250°C. Specific values ​​​​do not play a big role, the degree of heating of the pipe is regulated by the exposure time.

Step 4 Take the two elements to be connected and insert them each into its place in the soldering iron. Heat for approximately 5÷9 seconds. The ends should enter the heaters until they stop.

Couplings are heated on the inner surface

Practical advice. The instructions for the soldering iron have a table indicating the heating time of the pipe, depending on its diameter. Ignore it, just watch the degree of softening of the plastic. After all, you do not heat the entire pipe in thickness, but only the top layer 1 mm thick. What is the radius of the pipe - it does not matter, which means that the heating time almost does not change.

This also explains the fact that you should not use the soldering iron heating temperature table. We advise you to always set it to the maximum - the pipe will warm up much faster.

Step 5 The surface of the heated plastic pipe should resemble thick sour cream. Upon reaching this softening, remove the elements simultaneously from both sides of the soldering iron.

Important. Necessarily from both sides at the same time, otherwise big problems arise - the soldering iron does not have a side stop.

Step 6 Connect two heated planes together as quickly as possible, keep them as even as possible. In the clamped state, you need to hold it for 10 ÷ 15 seconds, the exact time depends on the heating temperature of the plastic. As you can see, almost all parameters and modes of pipe welding are determined not by the instructions, but by the experience of the master. Experience will appear already on the second or third gluing, gain skills on unnecessary segments.

How to measure and cut polypropylene pipes

Step 1. After you have marked the position of the pipes on the wall and fixed the plastic clamps, you can begin to mount the pipes.

Take measurements with maximum accuracy. Keep in mind that the connections are non-separable and non-adjustable.

Step 2 Start assembling pipes from the entry point. Screw couplings with internal threads to the taps. To seal threaded connections, use FUM tape, it holds the connection perfectly and does not require much effort for complete sealing.

Step 3 First, lay one pipe to the junction with the mixer, and then start work with the second. To make connections end-to-end with the wall, lift the heated soldering iron from the stand, insert one heating element into the hole in the coupling near the wall, and push a piece of pipe of the required length into the second. Keep the device straight, the axis of the heating elements must coincide with the axis of the pipe.

Step 4 After 5÷8 seconds, simultaneously remove the heating elements from the coupling and the pipe, place it on a stand and quickly insert the heated end of the pipe into the coupling.

Very important. During cooling, it is strictly forbidden to move the pipe and the coupling between themselves. If you get a misaligned connection, leave it that way.

With further installation, the plastic pipe can be bent a little and thus correct the error. If you start to turn the connection during cooling, then the tightness will be broken. It will be possible to find out about this only after filling the water supply with water. And it is very difficult to fix, you will have to completely cut out the old connections and mount new ones. For such purposes, we have already advised above to have several additional couplings in stock.

Important. The length of the soldering point of the pipe and fitting in each element is 15 mm, this must always be taken into account when taking measurements. If, for example, the distance from the pipe to the corner is 20 centimeters, then you need to cut the pipe 23 cm long (1.5 cm on each side for welding).

You can cut off the tubes with special scissors, which are included with a soldering iron, hacksaw or grinder. Make the cut as perpendicular to the axis of the pipe as possible. If there are burrs, remove them with any tool at hand.

This will avoid two problems:

• if you heat the ends at a greater distance, then the melted polypropylene during the connection will significantly reduce the conditional passage of the pipe;
• all connections will have the same length, minimizing the risk of problems during the connection of the following elements.

If you are working with pipes reinforced with aluminum foil, then you need to carefully monitor that during the connection it remains intact along the entire length of the heated section.

Continue welding the water supply to the place where the mixer is fixed. Finished making the cold pipe, proceed to the hot one. Problems may arise during cornering. If you do not follow the dimensions, then the distance between the pipes after passing the turn will not be the same. This is considered a marriage, especially when you used twin supports to fix the pipes on the wall. How to prevent such a situation? The last segments before the turn should have a difference in length equal to the distance between the paired supports. Always remember this rule.

How to fix the mixer

One of the most difficult operations, several parameters must be observed simultaneously: the horizontal position of the corners with external threads and the distance between them. The mixer is fixed to the wall elbows, and it must be in a strictly horizontal position. How to get the job done right the first time? Start precise position control after the last turn with both tubes.

Step 1. Find out the distance between the ends of the elbows and the exact installation location of the mixer. Remember to add 15 mm on each side for the length of the weld.

Important. The distance between two vertical pipe sections must be equal to the distance between the mixer adapters installed in the highest position. The adapters have offset centers, which allows them to be adjusted by a few millimeters to their exact position. By setting them in the middle position, you get the opportunity to make adjustments both vertically and horizontally. This property allows, after welding pipes, to correct small misses without problems.

Step 2 Weld the upper ends of the pipes, then attach the end squares with internal threads to them.

Step 3 Temporarily screw the faucet to the fittings, lean it tightly against the wall and mark the position of the mounting holes.

Step 4. Dismantle the mixer and, in turn, firmly fix each of the two threaded end brackets with self-tapping screws.

Step 5 Using sealing tape, screw on the faucet.

If it is difficult for you to do such work or you plan to connect other plumbing equipment to the mixer, you can use an installation plate to mount it on the wall. It has standard distances between threaded connections. The end outlets of the installation plate can be temporarily plugged with special plugs or the continuation of pipelines can be immediately connected.

Do not rush to solder all the connections in turn. Often there are times when one spike needs to be skipped, the next one performed, and then returned to the missed one. The fact is that you have to attach soldering irons to the wall, and this is not always convenient, previously installed pipes and connections can interfere. In such cases, you must first weld in the most inconvenient places, and then do work in easily accessible places.

Mounting bar intermediate

If you have problems of this kind and you do not know how to solve them - do not get upset and do not waste time thinking up different options. It is better to cut a section of the pipe, solder the two ends separately, and then connect the cut parts using a coupling. We do not argue that the additional coupling does not serve as decoration, but it is better to go this way than to redo the installation work again.

Video - Plumbing

Video - Installation of plastic pipes

Video - How to solder polypropylene pipes

How to make a shower in the bath with your own hands

The question of how to make a shower in the bath arises if you want to have a full-fledged bath room in your own possession. Such a device has many different design solutions - from an elementary overturning bucket ("Russian shower") to an automated year-round shower with various functions. How to make a hot shower in the bath?

This problem is solved, based on economic considerations, by installing ready-made equipment or making a system with your own hands. The most important thing is that it is quite possible to make a shower on your own, but you need to heed the advice of specialists.

Bath shower design features

A shower in a bath is considered a necessary functional element for washing the body after a steam room.. If in the old days such an element was replaced by a river or a large tub of cold water, in our time everyone tends to put a shower. Moreover, the normal condition is the presence in the shower not only cold, but also hot water.

A modern Russian bath, as a rule, has a separate room - a washing room, in which a shower cabin is mounted.

If the bath has tap water (cold and hot) and a sewer outlet, then there is no problem how to make a shower in the bath - just put a storage tank and a water sprayer.

Most often, a bath is built without a supply of water and sewer mains, and therefore, the following problems appear: installing a water tank from above; lifting water to fill the tank; heating water to the desired temperature; ensuring the sewer flow of waste water. By their nature, there are two main types of shower cabins: summer and year-round (winter) option. In the summer version, it is enough to install a metal container where the water will be heated by the sun's rays. A year-round shower requires artificial, controlled heating of the water.

How to ensure the accumulation of water

The first task when deciding how to make a shower in a bath is to provide it with water. The first step is to find its source. In addition to the plumbing system, water can be taken from an open reservoir (lake, river, pond) or from underground storages (ground or spring water). In order to supply water to the storage tank, a pump and a pipe system are required.

In the case of an open reservoir, a conventional surface centrifugal pump is installed, which takes water from a source through a hose and delivers it to a container through a pipe. The main problem of such water is pollution, which means that a filter system is needed for coarse and fine purification. In addition, it is advisable to take care of biological water treatment.

Groundwater has natural filtration and does not require additional treatment. The problem is that in order to obtain such water, it is necessary to equip a well and install a deep well pump. With a shallow groundwater, as a rule, a well is dug and a submersible pump is installed, which is much cheaper than a downhole apparatus. Of course, arranging a well or a well is an expensive undertaking, but they are usually built not only for showers, but also to obtain water for domestic needs.

After resolving the issue with the water source, a storage tank should be selected. Currently, many different types of plastic and metal containers are being sold, incl. stainless steel, which is considered the best option for a shower head. In simple economy class showers, a metal barrel with a volume of 100-200 liters is used as a container. As a result, the entire water supply system looks like this: a water source, a pump, a pipeline, a container with a valve and a spray nozzle. The pump can be controlled manually, but the most commonly used is automatic shutdown from the float system, which turns off the pump at the maximum water level in the tank and turns it on when it drops below the control mark.

How to provide water heating

The question of how to make a shower in a bath with water heating can be solved in different ways. The simplest is the summer version. In this case, the container is located on the roof of the bath, and the heating is carried out naturally, from the sun's rays.

Another question often arises: how to make a shower in the bath from the stove? In this case, two ways are possible: installing a tank heated from a sauna stove or its chimney and heating in the stove according to the “pass through” system. In the latter case, a coil is mounted in the furnace, through which water flows from the pump to the shower storage tank. Given the difficulty of controlling the heating of water from the stove, a mixer with hot and cold water valves should be provided at the shower outlet. Two pipelines must fit into the storage tank: cold and hot water.

Water heating can also be carried out by more modern methods using devices designed for this:

1. Gas heater. Such a heater in the form of a conventional geyser is used if a centralized gas supply is supplied to the site. This system heats the water per pass and can create hot water storage in the tank.
2. Flowing electric heater. Such heaters are produced with a power of 3-8 kW and are capable of heating water per passage to a temperature of approximately 72-75 degrees.
3. Thermal electric heaters for tanks. One of the most common ways to heat water in a bath shower. They provide heating of water in containers of 100-200 liters to a temperature of 95-100 degrees. Such heaters have a great advantage - they quickly heat up a large volume of water, which can then be used for a long time.
4. Use of standard containers with built-in electric heater. Such tanks with a capacity of 90-250 liters are available with automatic and manual heating control systems. Some types of devices are equipped with a thermostat, which makes it possible to pre-set the desired temperature for heating water.

Drain arrangement

During the construction of the bath, a wastewater disposal system is necessarily provided. Most often, a cesspool is installed up to a depth of 3 m with a distance of at least 4-6 m from the bath foundation. When arranging a shower, its drain system is also sent to this pit. If the shower is equipped in an already built bathhouse, then a section of the floor with an area of ​​1.2x1.2 m is disassembled in the washing room.

In the center of this site, a drain hole is formed, from which a pipe is diverted into a cesspool. The pipe is laid with a slope to ensure the self-flow of water. In place of the dismantled floor, a concrete screed is poured with a slope on all sides towards the drain hole. A wooden grate is installed on top of the screed. As a drain, a polypropylene pipe with a diameter of 45-80 mm is usually used. It is advisable to install a ladder on the drain hole to eliminate the smell.

How to make a shower in the bath

A shower stall is best provided immediately during the construction of the bath. The most suitable option is a nook in the washing room. When building a small-sized bath, a small shower room can be installed in the steam room. The optimal shower area is 1.2x1.2 or 1.2x1.5 m. However, if it is necessary to save space, sometimes a shower room measuring 90x90 cm, and even 80x80 cm is arranged. Another placement option is an isolated corner with an entrance from the dressing room.

A modern Russian bath is usually equipped with a shower to wash off sweat after a steam room, create a contrasting temperature effect, just to provide a soothing effect after extreme temperatures. A shower cabin may well be made by hand, both simultaneously with the construction of the bath, and during its operation.

Bath water supply: types and installation

Today, they no longer go for water for a bath with rockers and buckets. Modern buildings have automated delivery systems that allow you to consume the required amount of hot and cold all year round. How to organize such a system, we will tell in our article.

• Materials for water supply
• Installation of the water supply system
• Hot water supply
• 
  Proper water supply is a clean flow of water at a comfortable and constant pressure, designed to heat it. The presence of water is an urgent issue, without it, neither hygiene nor health procedures in the steam room are inconceivable. It is not difficult to make water supply in the bath with your own hands. It is much more difficult to organize a source of water for him when there is none near the building.

Types of bath water supply

There are two main seasonal types of water supply to bath buildings, let's look at them.
The first, simplest type is the summer supply of bath water. This system is designed to operate only during the warm season. Water is delivered, in addition to the bath, to other buildings located on the site. The system is built in series, when, if necessary, its branches are connected to the supply water pipe to distribute water to all its consumers. When cold weather sets in, water is removed from the summer system by gravity to its lowest point through the drain valve.
The second type is the winter version of water supply. Its difference from the summer water supply lies in the possibility of general and selective water supply to a particular building. In addition, the pipeline is equipped with a heating cable installed in its cavity, and a valve for supplying or shutting off water in the selected room. The cable prevents freezing of water in cold sections of the water main. To take a steam bath in the bath, it is enough to open the water supply for it by turning the shut-off valve. At the end of the procedures, the pipeline is blocked in the same way, and the water from the system is removed by gravity into the sewer network.
For the water supply of the bath in winter, there is also an electronic option for controlling the distribution of water flows through the piping system. Water supply to the buildings is carried out remotely using a distribution block, which is installed near the water source and is controlled by pressing the necessary keys from the buildings connected to the system.

Bath water sources

Depending on the source of water, the bath water supply may have the following options: from a well, from a well, from rainwater storage tanks, from the central water supply system of the house.

Bath water supply from a well

Quite often, this option for providing a bath with water seems to be the only possible one, but some of its disadvantages should be taken into account:

• Sudden changes in water levels, depending on the weather or season, so during the dry season, well resources may not be enough.
• Well water usually contains suspended particles, since its natural filtration during rains or floods may not be able to cope with its task.
• In winter, the head of the well requires insulation, otherwise there is a high probability of water freezing in it.

For the water supply of baths from a well, the necessary pressure is required, the creation of which is provided by submersible pumps. All of them differ from each other in price, power, operating noise and the volume of water pumped per hour. Jeelex brand pumps are considered a budget option. More expensive, but with less noise - Grundfos JP or Espa Technoplus. Some models do not have protection against "dry" running, in which case the pipe outlet is equipped with a sensor.
Advice! To reduce noise during operation of the pump, you can equip it with a receiver for 50 liters of water, this will help equalize and maintain pressure in the system, which is of no small importance for heating water in the bath.

Bath water supply from a well

When choosing a bath water supply from a well to a source, it is necessary to place a pump that will pump water into a storage tank as it is consumed.
Wells for water are of two types:

1. sand wells. Their service life is from 5 to 15 years, it depends on the volume of the aquifer and the rate of water consumption. The average depth of the wells is 10-25 m. One well produces about 1 m3 of water per hour. With temporary seasonal use, it gradually silts up.
2. Artesian wells. Their water is of high quality, almost does not require filtration and is extracted from a depth of more than 30 m. The arrangement of an artesian well is very laborious and costly, but for 50 years one can not remember the problems of water supply.

Important! Drilling and equipping artesian wells is more expensive than sandy ones. They require permission from the environmental authorities.

Bath water supply with rainwater

The main vulnerability of this option is dependence on natural vagaries. The basis of the rainwater supply system consists of two elements:

• Storage tank made of environmentally friendly material;
• Wiring - ordinary water pipes designed to deliver water to the bath.

Additional costs will be required to purchase a centrifugal or submersible pump. Centrifugal pumps are preferable due to their outdoor installation, since water usually accumulates at the bottom of the tank. Forward pumps with a power of 500 W and a throughput of up to 2.5 m3 per hour perform their work well.

Bath water supply from the central water supply system of the house

This is the simplest version of the bath water supply system, which does not require the search and arrangement of water sources. When a bath is located on a territory with an operating water supply, you need to obtain permission from the owner, make a tie-in to the house, bring pipes to your building, make their internal wiring and connect plumbing fixtures.

Materials for bath water supply

To transport water to the bath from any source, pipes are required, which are made of various materials:

1. . They are indispensable when installing the external water supply of the bath. Such products are elastic, which allows them to bend during installation. Between themselves, the pipes are securely connected using special soldering.
2. Metal-plastic pipes. They are most often used for internal plumbing in bath rooms.
3. Steel pipes. For baths now they are rarely used due to their rapid corrosion.
4. Copper pipes. They have excellent performance characteristics, but do not withstand competition in the market due to their high price.

Installation of the bath water supply system

After preparing the source of water supply for the bath, pipes are laid out and the corresponding equipment is connected to them indoors. Installation of the pipeline to the bath, used only in the summer, can be performed in simplified ways.
The water supply can be made on top of the ground and dealt with the onset of cold weather, as well as laid underground at a shallow depth to avoid mechanical damage by walking or garden carts. For winter water supply, pipes are laid below the freezing level of the soil and insulated.
External work must be done in the following order:

• A trench of the required depth is dug from the water source to the bath.
• At the bottom there is a sand cushion on which pipes must be laid.
• The products are connected to each other using special fittings.
• The pump is installed and connected.

Internal work takes place in the bathhouse:

1. A water heater is installed.
2. A pumping station is being set up in a convenient place specially designated for it.
3. Water filters are installed.
4. Installation and wiring of pipes in the bath is carried out according to the principle: first, vertical risers are installed, and then their horizontal branches.
5. Plumbing fixtures are connected to the outlets of the pipes.

Upon completion of the installation, the water supply system is launched, tested and the identified deficiencies are eliminated.

Hot water bath

Any bath, even when it is operated in the summer, requires hot water. Before you make hot water in the bath, you need to choose one of its methods:

• Hot water in the bath is supplied from the house through the water pipe in any quantity and at any time. If the house has a well-organized hot water supply all year round, it will be rational to connect the bath to the general system.
• Offline way. It requires the installation of a water heater. Its type, type and brand must be chosen, taking into account the optimal energy sources for use. Storage heaters from Gorenje and Electrolux are practical and convenient. They require only one reliable outlet. Such heaters compete with similar flow devices, but for full-fledged operation, especially in winter, flow heaters must have the appropriate power and use a three-phase connection.
• Hot water supply can be carried out using electric, gas boilers, which are flow and accumulative.
• Hot water can be obtained by heating it in a tank from a stove-heater.

Watch a video about the water supply of the bath:

That's all science! If desired, and if there is time, the water supply of the bath can be done independently. Surely, clean water of any temperature will delight your household. Author: TutKnow.ru editors

The presence of water in the bath significantly increases the comfort of taking water procedures and facilitates the preparation of the bath. In addition, there is no need to allocate special places in the premises for water tanks, there is no need to periodically fill these tanks with water.

In the absence of plumbing, the barrels are filled with water with a margin, the excess after the bath is poured onto the floor, otherwise it will freeze in winter and the ice will damage the containers, and in summer, as a result of prolonged standing of water, various microorganisms and bacteria multiply in it - the water acquires an unpleasant color and smell.

There is another plus of plumbing in the bath - the amount of water poured under the bath is significantly reduced, and this is always a problem for wooden structures and foundations.

Water supply in the bath is convenient and economical

How can you bring water into the bath with your own hands, what equipment is required for this and what construction work should be done? In order to make the best decision in each case, you should familiarize yourself with the existing types and schemes of bath water supply.

Types of water supply

Depending on the frequency of use of the bath, water supply can be summer or all-weather.

Summer water supply

The easiest, but also the most inconvenient way of water supply.

Advantages

Water pipes are laid on the surface of the site, it is not required to perform a large amount of earthwork for digging trenches. You can use cheap soft hoses, the number of expensive plumbing fixtures is significantly reduced, hoses can be laid along the shortest route from the water source to the bath. And the main advantage is the cheapness of arranging summer water supply.

disadvantages

Every season, the hoses must be removed to a warm room, the surface pipes must be completely drained of water. If night frosts suddenly hit, then hoses and pipes can fail, and a considerable amount of money will be required to buy new ones. But the main drawback is the inability to take bath procedures in winter. If there is a need to use the bath in the winter, then you need to install containers under the water in the premises and carry it in buckets.

Summer water supply is done in extreme cases, and then only as a temporary solution to the problem. There are several reasons that do not allow you to immediately make a winter supply of water, and this is not only a lack of finance. For example, construction work may continue at other sites on the site, which does not allow digging trenches in the necessary places or it is possible to connect to general engineering networks, but it takes time to agree on various permits, etc.

As practice shows, even those owners of baths, who at first did summer water supply, over time, must redo it for winter. Therefore, we advise you to immediately make a winter version, do not waste time and money on temporary water pipes.

Advantages

The main thing is the uninterrupted availability of water at any time of the year. There is no need to monitor the air temperature and worry about the safety of pipes and hoses during sudden frosts. In addition, there is no time wasted on the periodic dismantling of equipment and its reconnection.

disadvantages

The main disadvantage is the increase in the estimated cost of work and purchase of equipment. The second drawback is a rather large amount of excavation work and the occurrence of problems associated with such work.

Conclusion - still do winter water supply, in the end it will give you the opportunity to save money and time. It is better to spend money on real water supply once than to first install a temporary one, and then switch to winter anyway.

Now consider what equipment is used to supply the bath.

Pumps and pipes for water supply

There are a huge number of household pumps for supplying water, they differ widely in technical characteristics. When choosing a specific model and type, it is necessary to take into account the individual characteristics of the water supply of the bath: the depth of water intake, the height of the supply, the length of the pipelines and the need to automate the water intake. Consider each type of pump in more detail.

float

Are established on a surface of a water intake of open sources of water: a pond, the river or a well. Suitable only for summer water supply.

disadvantages- relatively low power and the absence of built-in automatic on / off systems, they can only work at positive temperatures, they require the installation of containers under water.

Advantages- independence from the water level in the source, float pumps float on the surface of the water intake, the suction pipe is always under water, it rises / falls with it.

Submersible

They are immersed under water to a shallow depth, after immersion they are fixed with stainless steel cables or strong polyamide ropes.

Advantages- use at negative temperatures is allowed - they are constantly under the surface of the water.

The same advantage can be disadvantage- with a significant decrease in the water level in the source, the suction pipe is exposed, the pump stops. They do not differ in high power, require separate water storage devices, do not have built-in control electronics.

Float and submersible pumps, unlike other types, can supply water with flexible hoses; they do not have vacuum lines. As for automation, it can be done independently or purchased separately in specialized stores. These two types of pumps are among the cheapest and are used mainly during the installation of the summer bath water supply. They are easy to maintain and repair, they are always in the zone of quick access.

Pretty new equipment, universal use.

Advantages

They have built-in on / off automatics depending on the pressure in the accumulator - it is possible to connect any equipment, the water pressure has stable performance. They are significantly superior in power to those described above, they do not require additional water tanks. They can both suck in water from a certain depth, and supply it to a calculated height. When choosing a specific brand, carefully study the instructions for the pumps, pay attention to the suction depth and delivery height, these are very important criteria. Pumps with hydraulic accumulators can take water from both open sources and shallow wells.

disadvantages

Rather high cost, installation is allowed only in warm rooms. If there is a possibility of freezing of the bath, then you need to resolve issues with the insulation of the pump or drain the water from it. It takes quite a long time to drain / fill water, in addition, it will be necessary to install additional water shut-off valves to drain water from vertical risers of pipelines. Another drawback is that the units are quite noisy, the constant switching on / off of the electric motor can cause discomfort.

deep

The most expensive, reliable and powerful pumps. They are used for installation in deep wells, have their own multi-stage protection against silting and short circuits. It is not economically viable to use for only one bath; it is recommended to purchase such pumps for plumbing in all buildings available in the summer cottage. Flaw- a water storage tank is required, in most cases a Rozhnovsky water tower is used for this purpose.

Downhole pumps are lowered into wells only on metal pipes, the use of plastic ones is excluded.

Where can you get water

SourceDescriptionIllustration

Open sources: river or pond.	Unless, of course, they are on the site. Benefits - zero cost. Disadvantages - there may be issues with water quality, the risks of pump clogging increase.
For most baths - the best solution. The quality is suitable for cooking - water from wells can be used not only for a bath, but also for a residential building.
They can be shallow (on sand) or deep (on limestone). The gubina of the first does not exceed 20 meters, the specific values ​​​​depend on the geodetic features of the area and the water balance of the soil. The advantages of small wells are relatively low cost. Disadvantages - low water debit, high risks of mudding the well and clogging the pump. If water is taken from wells regularly, the risks of silting are reduced, the sludge is sucked up by the pump, the strainer is cleaned. But if the well is used very rarely, then silting occurs quickly. The second wells have the highest performance in all respects. But they also have a significant drawback - the high cost of work. The drilling depth can be several tens of meters or more.

When choosing a specific water intake site, take into account the maximum number of individual factors - this is an axiom of any planning. Our extra tip is to plan a few steps ahead, don't live for today. If at the moment it is enough for you to take water for a bath from a pond, then keep in mind that in a few years no one will want to use such water. Why do the same job twice? Do a normal water supply right away, this will greatly expand its capabilities.

How to make a bath water supply with your own hands

Consider one of the options that is quite successful in all respects - a winter water supply from a well using a pumping station and a hydraulic accumulator.

Step 1. Preliminary planning and purchase of equipment.

First of all, draw a diagram of the plumbing. Indicate exactly where the pumping station will be installed in the bathhouse, to which consumers the water is connected, from where the intake is made. We are considering the case when there is already a well on the site, if it is not there, you will have to dig. These are quite complex works, we will tell you how to properly dig a well in our next article.

An additional filter must be installed near the pump. The pump has one filter as standard on the submersible check valve, but the mesh sizes can only hold coarse sand. And the pump is also afraid of small abrasive particles, such a filter does not catch them.

Video - Filter for a pump in a well, well

Video - Calculation of a pump for water supply

For water supply, you can use flexible polyethylene pipes connected by collapsible couplings or plastic pipes connected by a special welding machine.

We recommend using the first option for laying pipes in a trench, such connections are quite reliable, in the event of breaking loads, the pipe is slightly pulled out of the rubber seal, this is provided for by the coupling device. The tightness of the connection is not broken, which is very important if the water supply is in a trench.

In the bath, you can use plastic pipes, to connect them you need to have a special welding machine, it is inexpensive, it will always come in handy on the farm. The diameter of the intake and main pipes is at least two inches, the wiring around the room can be done with pipes of a smaller diameter. To change from one pipe diameter to another, use special adapters.

Now you can go to the store, experienced sales assistants will give you additional advice on the optimal configuration of the selected equipment. The configuration depends on the manufacturer and type of equipment.

The expansion tank (hydraulic accumulator) is horizontal. Calculation of the accumulator

The fact is that those installed at the pumping station have a small storage volume, in most cases it does not exceed five liters. It is impossible to say more precisely, the volume of accumulated water depends on the set pressure. A small supply of water causes frequent switching on / off of the electric motor. This creates discomfort and adversely affects the stator and rotor windings. For a bath, it is quite enough to install an additional fifty-liter hydraulic accumulator.

Step 2. Mark out and dig a trench

Try not to lay the pipe in places where other buildings are planned in the future. Your pipe, of course, is not a gas pipeline, but you should not create additional difficulties for yourself. The depth of the trench is not lower than the freezing level of the soil. In order to eliminate the risks of damage to plastic pipes by stones, a sand cushion about 5 centimeters thick should be poured into the bottom of the trench, and the pipes are also covered from above with sand first, and then with earth. If your land does not have stones, you can not do sand protection.

Dig one of the rings of the well, using a perforator, make a through hole in the ring for the pipe, the hole should be 10 ÷ 20 centimeters above the water level. The dimensions of the hole should allow you to work in it with your hands; before filling the trench with earth, a large hole will be closed with any piece of thick-walled galvanized metal or plastic. The entry of the pipeline into the bath depends on the type of foundation; the tape will have to be dug up.

The open section of the pipe from the ground to the floor of the bath must be carefully insulated. There are excellent industrial heaters for pipelines, but we recommend strengthening them - making a wooden box around the pipe and filling it with glass wool. The dimensions of the box along the perimeter are at least 50 × 50 centimeters.

Step 3. Measure the water depth in the well

To do this, you need to tie any load to the end of a long rope and lower it into the well until it stops with the bottom. Cut the vertical riser in such a way that the grid of the non-return valve does not reach the bottom of 20÷30 cm. This is necessary so that during seasonal fluctuations in the water level, the valve is always in the water. A slight rise above the bottom will prevent the mule from being sucked in.

Step 4. Lower the intake pipe into the well

Complete with the pump, a check valve with a strainer is implemented, fix it at the end of the pipe section.

Important. Do not purchase Chinese plastic check valves. They work no more than a year, low-quality plastic breaks. To replace the check valve, you will have to dig a trench. This is quite difficult even in summer, but what if a breakdown happens in winter? Responsible manufacturers make such valves from bronze or brass, buy only them.

A plastic pipe can be cut with a hacksaw or grinder. For deburring and chamfering, special devices are sold in stores, but you should not buy them. The fact is that they can only chamfer if the cut is perfectly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe, it is impossible to achieve this manually. The chamfer is perfectly removed with a sharp knife or is done with a grinder from the flat side of the disc. Without a chamfer, the rubber seal of the coupling can be damaged, and even a slight air leak can cause the pump to fail. You will have to look for a place for suction and change the coupling or o-rings.

The vertical intake pipe is connected to a horizontal connecting elbow, it is quite inconvenient to do this, you have to stick both hands into the hole in the concrete ring of the well. Make sure the connection is absolutely tight.

Video - Pump installation

Step 5. Attach a horizontal pipe to the elbow outlet that lies in the trench

Step 6. The pumping station needs to be insulated

We recommend additionally preparing a pit in the ground for it, this will significantly reduce the risk of freezing. The pit should be closed with a tight lid, all surfaces can be upholstered with sheets of foam about ten centimeters thick.

The pipe is brought to the pump, the pump is installed in the bath. This completes the external work, you can make internal piping. For internal wiring, it is better to use plastic pipes, the connection is made with a special welding machine.

Until the trench is backfilled, you need to check the operation of the pump. Pour water into it, the water should fill the entire pipeline in the trench and displace the air. This can take quite a lot of time. During the first start-up of the pump, pumping should be facilitated, there may still be air in the pipes, the pump should expel it. Before turning on the engine, open the valve from the accumulator, let the water and air escape without pressure. In this way, you will be able to speed up the pumping of the pipeline, completely remove air from the system and reduce the load on the pump.

Important. When laying a pipeline in a trench, try to keep it lying evenly along the entire route. Otherwise, air congestion will inevitably appear, it will be difficult to remove them.

Video - Selection, piping and installation of the pump in the well

How to regulate the pumping station

The accumulator pump can be adjusted for engine on/off pressure. Factory settings do not quite meet the requirements of the bath, they are designed to connect household appliances operating at a water pressure of about 2.2 atm. We recommend reducing the pressure, this will significantly reduce the load on the engine and increase the capacity of the hydraulic accumulator. How it's done?

1. Remove the terminal cover, under the cover there are two adjusting bolts with springs. The large one regulates the on pressure, the small one regulates the off pressure of the pump.
2. When turning the bolts, clicks will be heard, which indicate the operation of a mechanical trigger.
3. Adjust the control bolts so that the pump turns on when the pressure drops to about 0.7 atm., and turns off when the pressure rises to 1.2 atm.

We guarantee that such simple changes in the technical characteristics of the operation will increase the life of the pump by at least one and a half times. In addition, noise during operation will be significantly reduced. Be sure to install an additional water filter before entering the pump.

Video - The first launch of a pumping station based on a submersible pump

Internal piping

It is necessary to act according to the drawn scheme, do the work slowly. The fact is that after detecting an error, the soldered connection will have to be cut off and a new one made, for this you need to use additional couplings, but they do not decorate the water supply. Do not weld all the segments in a row, sometimes you need to skip one connection, weld the next, and then return to the previous one. It is impossible to tell all the solutions in the article, especially without knowing your scheme. Again, we repeat the previous advice - think a few steps or technological operations ahead.

The water supply of suburban summer cottages, and many villages in the outback, still leaves much to be desired. But you can enjoy at least the minimum benefits of civilization even in this case. To partially solve the problem of providing hot water, a bulk water heater for a summer residence, which is inexpensive and works efficiently, will help.

Bulk water heater for giving

So, what are country bulk water heaters, thanks to which they can provide the ability to use hot water even if there is a simple well?

At its core, such a water heater is a conventional container, closed with a lid, with a built-in collapsible faucet. Water is added to it using an ordinary bucket or ladle, the lid is removed, poured and you can turn it on. The electrical circuit of such a heater is minimalist and simple. A conventional heating element (by the way, it should be remembered that the so-called “wet” heating elements are mainly used, which cannot be turned on in the air), simple thermostats that allow you to maintain a given temperature level. That's basically all the main elements.

Depending on the modification, such water heaters can be used to provide the simplest human needs for hot water. There are models of small volume that can fit into even the smallest kitchen in the country or will be installed right in the yard so that you can wash your hands or harvested vegetables with warm water. More expensive modifications provide a supply of hot water for the shower, so with their help it is quite possible to wash off the dust after a busy summer day.

The design of the bulk water heater "Alvin"

Of course, such water heaters for a private house will not find a place for themselves in a country mansion or in a city apartment. But for rural and suburban conditions, which are not yet fully provided with the benefits of civilization, such devices are quite suitable and help to solve the problem of providing hot water.

Requirements for bulk water heaters

Given the fact that bulk water heaters for a private house or cottage are small in volume, their design must comply with certain rules to ensure the safe operation of the device:

• The water container must be sealed. All inputs to it must be provided with seals to prevent leakage of water and its penetration into the electrical components of the device.
• The body of the water heater must be made of materials resistant to high temperatures. Quite often, heat-resistant polymeric materials are used that can withstand exposure to boiling water.
• The water intake level must exceed the level of the heating element. This will guarantee the impossibility of turning on the water heater in dry mode, which can lead to the heating element burnout and a fire.
• At the same time, it is advisable to install the heating element slightly higher than the intake tap itself, in this case, direct thermal effects on the sealing gaskets that seal the connection point will be excluded. An increase in the level of water intake with this design is achieved using a special tube, which is brought out slightly above the heating element.
• It is best to use a heating element with a stainless coating, such a heating element will last much longer, especially if you take into account the presence of a large amount of mineral impurities in water from a source or an ordinary well.
• Bulk water heaters for summer cottages should be equipped with at least the simplest thermostats that allow you to maintain a given temperature level. Otherwise, it is almost impossible to ensure the safe operation of the device (primarily for models with a plastic case).
• The presence of a light indicator (light bulb or LED) is also considered mandatory, signaling the operation of the heater.
• It would also be useful to have a double-circuit housing filled with thermally insulating materials. In such heaters, the water will not cool down too quickly, which will reduce the overall energy consumption.

On sale you can find models of various configurations and designs. Most recognizable by appearance water heater Moidodyr for a cottage or a country house. He received this name because of the similarity with the character of the same name in Chukovsky's fairy tale.

Bulk water heater "Moydodyr"

• It is a frame structure with a stainless sink and a convenient cabinet under it.
• The plastic or stainless steel tank has a capacity of 20 liters, which is enough to provide hot water for basic needs.
• The heater is equipped with a heating element with a power of 1.25 kW, it operates from a 220 V household electrical network.
• It is equipped with an adjustable thermostat that allows you to set the level of water heating in the range of 15-70 degrees.
• The maximum heating time for a full tank of water does not exceed 50 minutes (temperature 70 degrees).

With all this, the cost of Moidodyr is only 3700-4000 rubles, which ensured a stable demand for such water heaters in rural areas.

Success - a bulk type water heater for summer cottages and at home

One of the most famous brands of domestic water heaters of this type. Manufacturers offer a whole line of models that differ in volume and power of the heating element. All models feature a separate stainless steel tank that can be used with various types of sinks. It is possible to mount the device on a wall or any other vertical surface.

40 liter tank water heater Uspek has a flat body, the thickness of which is only 200 mm. The unit is equipped with a heating element with a capacity of 1.25 kW, which provides heating of the entire volume of water up to 40 degrees in just 40 minutes. Equipped with a thermostat that allows you to set the heating temperature in the range of 20-70 degrees.

Bulk storage water heater "Success-15"

In such water heaters, stainless steel is used, the thickness of which is 1 mm, due to which the essential durability of the device is ensured.

Another domestic line of bulk water heaters is presented under the Alvin brand. Bulk water heater for giving Elvin will find application both in a small kitchen and in the shower. The manufacturer offers various modifications that differ in volume, type of connected taps or shower diffusers.

Water heaters of this brand are equipped with a temperature controller, a thermal protection system against overheating. The volume of the container may vary depending on the model, the most popular heaters are 20 liters.

Bulk water heater for giving Elvin

On average, such a unit can be purchased for 2-6 thousand rubles.

It features high reliability, accurate temperature control. The ELVIN EVBO-20-2/1.25 model is equipped with heating elements with a power of 1.25 kW (by the way, such heating elements are most often used in other models of water heaters).

Particular attention should be paid to the quality fastening of bulk water heaters to vertical surfaces. It is recommended to use standard fasteners supplied with the household appliance.

Remember, a water heater torn off its mount can cause water to enter parts that are under voltage, this is fraught with a short circuit and electric shock.

Despite some naivety of the design. Bulk water heaters will be in demand for a long time due to their low cost. Therefore, choose the one you like and use it for health for many years.