I wanted to have my own weather station, which transmits readings from sensors to a public monitoring map (searched on Google in 5 seconds). It turned out that it is not as difficult as it seems. Let's look at what has been done.
For this action, I took an Arduino Uno and an Ethernet Shield w5100 for it. All this was ordered from China on Aliexpress.
I also ordered sensors there: DHT22, DHT11, DS18B20, BMP280 (gas and smoke sensors are also planned...)
After searching forums, Google, Yandex, I found a good version of the sketch - https://student-proger.ru/2014/11/meteostanciya-2-1/
There, in the comments, a person posted a completed sketch with light and gas sensors. I took them as a basis.
In those sketches there was no support for the 280th pressure sensor, we talked with the author, he replaced 180 with 280. Everything worked perfectly (many thanks to him for this)
Below is an example of the final sketch that I came up with.
Currently I have connected sensors:
DHT22 - 1 piece.
DHT11 - 1 pc.
BMP280 - 1 pc.
DS18B20 - 2 pcs.
ATTENTION! Before uploading the sketch, do not forget to change the MAC address of the device so as not to interfere with others (for example, take the Mac address of your mobile phone and change the last letters/numbers in it, which will not “disturb” your local network!
Approximate connection diagram (picture taken from this sketch on the Internet):
For technical reasons, I can't post the sketch directly here. I put it in the archive. The link to it is in the line above.
As you can see, there are readings and they are working properly; for example, I’ll post a couple of screenshots from my sensors:
You will need
- - Arduino board or equivalent;
- - temperature and humidity sensor DHT11;
- - pressure sensor BMP085;
- - carbon dioxide sensor MQ135;
- - LCD display 1602;
- - potentiometer 10 kOhm;
- - housing for the weather station;
- - a piece of foil fiberglass;
- - screws for fastening components;
- - computer;
- - connecting wires;
- - power supply connector;
- - soldering iron.
Instructions
First you need to choose a suitable case. All the components of the future indoor weather station should fit there. Such cases are sold in many radio electronics stores. Or use any other case you can find.
Figure out how all the components will be placed inside. Cut a window to attach the LCD display if you don't have one. If you place a carbon dioxide sensor inside, which gets quite hot, then place it on the opposite side from other sensors or make it remote. Provide a hole for the power connector.
A few words about the components used.
The 1602 LCD display uses 6 Arduino pins + 4 for power (backlight and character synthesizer).
The DHT11 temperature and humidity sensor connects to any digital pin. To read the values we will use the DHT11.rar library, which can be downloaded, for example, here: https://yadi.sk/d/1LiFmQWITGPAY
The BMP085 pressure sensor is connected via the I2C interface to two Arduino pins: SDA - to analog pin A4 and SCL - to analog pin A5. Please note that +3.3 V is supplied to the sensor to power it.
The MQ135 carbon dioxide sensor connects to one analog pin.
In principle, to assess the weather situation, it is enough to have data on temperature, humidity and atmospheric pressure, and a carbon dioxide sensor is not necessary.
But using all 3 sensors, we will use 7 digital and 3 analog Arduino pins. Well, food, of course.
The weather station diagram is shown in the figure. Everything is clear here.
Let's write a sketch for Arduino. The text of the program, due to its considerable size, is provided as a link in the appendix to the article in the “Sources” section. All code is provided with detailed and clear comments.
Let's load the sketch into the memory of the Arduino board controller.
We will make a printed circuit board to place the components inside the case - this is the most convenient solution for arranging and connecting sensors. To make a printed circuit board at home, I use “laser-ironing” technology (we described it in detail in previous articles) and etching with citric acid. We will provide places on the board for jumpers ("jumpers") to be able to disable the sensors. This will be useful if you need to reprogram the microcontroller when you want to modify the program.
Using soldering, we will install pressure and gas sensors.
To install the Arduino Nano board, it is convenient to use special adapters or sockets with a pitch of 2.54. But in the absence of these parts and due to saving space inside the case, I will also install the Arduino by soldering.
The temperature sensor will be located at some distance from the board and will be thermally insulated from the interior of the weather station using a special insulating gasket.
We will provide places for connecting external power to our homemade board. I'll use a regular 5V charger from an old broken router. Plus 5 volts from the charger will be supplied to the Vin pin of the Arduino board.
The LCD screen will be screwed directly to the case, to the front. It will be connected using wires with Dupont type quick connection connectors.
(chrono-thermo-hygro-barometer)
As the famous song says, “The most important thing is the weather in the house...”. Of course, by weather the author meant the mental state of spouses living under the same roof. But if we take this phrase literally, it means that under the roof, in addition to mental comfort, there should also be climatic comfort. The proposed device provides measurement and display on an LED indicator of temperature and relative humidity in the room, atmospheric pressure and current time.
The station is equipped with a motion sensor, which turns it on when a person appears in the sensor's coverage area. This mode allows you to save energy consumption and use galvanic batteries as a power source. In addition, this mode is convenient to use in the bedroom - the switched off display of the station will not irritate you with its glow. In this case, to turn on the station it will be enough to move your hand or foot.
The appearance of the station is shown in the figures (Figure 1 and Figure 2).
Picture 1.
Station appearance
Figure 2.
Exterior view of the station (back side)
A video demonstrating the operation of the station is presented below:
Electrical diagram.
The electrical circuit diagram is shown in Figure 3.
Figure 3.
Electrical circuit diagram.
The station is assembled on an ATmega8 microcontroller. The R1C1 chain provides the initial reset (Reset) of the microcontroller when turned on. In-circuit programming of the MK is provided via the XP3 “SPI programmer” connector.
Fuses of MK ATmega8: HIGH=0xD9, LOW=0xE4.
The display uses a four-digit, 7-segment indicator of the CL5642BN type with a common anode and a two-point (“:”) separator for hours and minutes. The cathodes of the indicator segments are connected to the MK through limiting resistors. The MK provides dynamic indication by turning on transistor switches VT3...VT6 in turn.
The chronometer is assembled on a DS1307 microcircuit according to the standard switching circuit. The accuracy of the watch is ensured by the Y1 quartz resonator with a frequency of 32768 Hz. In the absence of the main power supply (5 Volts), the continuity of the clock is ensured by a backup power source based on a galvanic cell CR2032 (3 Volts). The interaction of the MK with the DS1307 chip is carried out via the TWI (I2C) bus. The TWI bus lines are “pulled up” to the VCC2 power supply by resistors R20, R21. Setting hours and minutes is provided by buttons SA1 (“Hours+”), SA2 (“Minutes+”), SA3 (“Set”). In this case, at the moment the cycle of displaying data on the display begins, press and hold the “Setup” button. By pressing or pressing and holding the “Hours+” or “Minutes+” buttons, the chronometer time is set. When the "Set" button is released, the DS1307 IC will write the hours and minutes shown on the display to the corresponding cells, and the seconds cell will write the value 0. In this way, you can accurately synchronize the time with external reference time sources (for example, from broadcast radio stations or television ).
The BMP180 barometer board is also connected to the TWI bus. The device program reads the calibration coefficients set by the manufacturer and takes them into account when calculating atmospheric pressure.
Temperature measurement is carried out by the DHT11 sensor. The MK controls the sensor via a serial, single-wire, bidirectional interface. The interface line is “pulled up” to the VCC2 power supply by resistor R19.
To save battery energy, the microcontroller spends most of its time in a state of deep sleep (“power-down”). In this case, before falling asleep, the MK de-energizes all measuring sensors connected to VCC2 (chronometer, atmospheric pressure sensor, humidity and temperature sensor). De-energization of the sensors is provided by switches on transistors VT1 and VT2.
To wake up the MK, a motion sensor HC-SR501 is included in the station circuit. Its task is to bring MK out of the sleep state. When triggered, the sensor sends a signal to the MK, which wakes itself up and supplies VCC2 power to the peripheral sensors (chronometer, atmospheric pressure sensor, humidity and temperature sensor). The key on the VT7 transistor provides inversion of the motion sensor signal for coordination with the MK. The Motion switch allows you to disable the motion sensor to further save battery power. In this case, an alternative command to wake up the MK can be issued by pressing the “Install” button.
The station is powered from two alternative types of sources: from three AA batteries or from a 5 Volt mains power supply via the USB bus. To switch between power sources, you must set the “Power” switch to one of the positions: “USB” or “Battery”. When powered by batteries, the current consumption of the station in sleep mode is no more than 200 μA, which, with a battery capacity of 2000 mAh, corresponds to 10,000 hours (more than one year) of continuous operation.
When choosing a network power source, it should be taken into account that the peak current consumption of the station (during measurement and when the display is on) does not exceed 100 mA. Therefore, you can use almost any charger.
When powered by a USB bus, it is sometimes useful to ensure that the sensors are constantly measuring values and displaying the data on the display. To do this, set the “Display” switch to the “On” position. In this case, the MK will not be transferred to the sleep state.
Printed circuit boards.
Printed circuit boards are designed in the Dip Trace program. They are made on one-sided foil fiberglass. The location of parts on the main printed circuit board is shown in the figure (Figure 4). In the figure, the jumpers on the installation side are highlighted with colored broken lines. The printed circuit board from the tracks side is shown in the figure (Figure 5).
Figure 4.
Printed circuit board (view from the side of radio components).
Figure 5.
Printed circuit board (bottom view, mirror image).
The station control panel buttons and switches are installed on a separate printed circuit board (Figure 6 and Figure 7).
Figure 6.
Printed circuit board of the Control Panel (top view).
Figure 7.
Printed circuit board of the Control Panel (view from the tracks).
The socket for connecting the USB cable is installed on a separate board purchased on AliExpress (Figure 8).
Figure 8.
Board with USB socket.
Installation.
The station is mounted in the body of a universal box for cable channels “Promrukav” - IP42; 400V; polystyrene GOST R 50827.1-2009 TU 3464-001-97341529-2012 Article 40-0460.
On the front side of the case there are windows for the display and motion sensor. On the back of the case there is a DHT11 humidity and temperature sensor, buttons and switches for the control panel.
Battery - three AA 1.5 Volt cells each placed in a specialized holder - a “crib”.
The placement of radio components on the printed circuit board is shown in the figure (Figure 9).
Figure 9.
Appearance of the placement of parts on the board.
The archive for the article “CTBH.rar” contains:
1. Folder CTBH - project files in C in the Atmel Studio 7 environment.
2. CTBH.dch - electrical circuit diagram in Dip Trace format.
3. CTBH.dip - device printed circuit board in Dip Trace format.
4. CTBH_Buttons.dip - printed circuit board of the Control Panel in Dip Trace format.
5. CTBH.hex - boot file for MK.
Good luck in your creativity and all the best!
Download the archive.
I present another project based on the AVR Atmega8 microcontroller. This time we will construct an indoor weather station. The device uses two sensors - DHT11 and BMP180. We will use the first one as an air humidity meter, and the second one as an atmospheric pressure meter, and also, since it has a more accurate temperature sensor, as a thermometer for measuring the temperature in the room. As a result, using this scheme you can monitor the main weather parameters, so to speak. If you add sensors for the speed and direction of air flows, then this circuit can be re-qualified as an outdoor weather station. However, now we will consider only the indoor option.
Device diagram:
As can be seen above, the heart of the circuit is the Atmega8 microcontroller. This controller can be used in any package - DIP-28 or TQFP-32, it does not matter, only your own preferences or the characteristics of the printed circuit board being manufactured. Resistor R3, which pulls up the power supply positive to pin PC6, prevents spontaneous restart of the microcontroller in the event of any accidental interference to the circuit. Next, a liquid crystal screen with two lines of sixteen characters each - SC1602 - is used as an indicator of the measured parameters. This LCD screen is made on the basis of the HD44780 controller, so this model can be replaced with another on the same controller or may be compatible with it. The backlight in this version of the circuit on the LCD display is organized through terminals “A” and “K” (that is, the anode and cathode of the backlight - the display has additional terminals for connecting the backlight). However, simply connecting power to these pins will not be correct; you need to connect 5 volts through a current limiting resistor so as not to burn out the backlight. According to the diagram, this is resistor R1, its value is 22 Ohms, the higher the value, the less brightly the display will be illuminated. I do not recommend using a rating of less than 22 Ohms, as there may be a risk of damaging the screen backlight with prolonged use.
The entire circuit is powered by a simple power module on a power transformer. The alternating voltage is rectified by four 1N4007 diodes VD1 - VD4, the ripples are smoothed out by capacitors C1 and C2. The value of capacitor C2 can be increased to 1000 - 4700 µF. Four rectifier diodes can be replaced by one diode bridge. Transformer applied brandBV EI 382 1189 - converts 220 volts AC to 9 volts AC. The power of the transformer is 4.5 W, which is quite enough and with some reserve. Such a transformer can be replaced with any other power transformer suitable for you. Either this power supply module of the circuit can be replaced with a pulsed voltage source, you can assemble a flyback converter circuit, or use a ready-made power supply from a telephone, for example - it’s all a matter of tastes and needs. The rectified voltage from the transformer is stabilized on the L7805 linear stabilizer chip, it can be replaced with a domestic analogue of the five-volt linear stabilizer KR142EN5A, or you can use another voltage stabilizer chip in accordance with its connection in the circuit (for example, LM317 or switching stabilizers LM2576, LM2596, MC34063, and so on). Next, 5 volts are stabilized by another microcircuit - AMS1117 in a version that gives an output of 3.3 volts. This voltage is used to power the BMP180 atmospheric pressure sensor according to the documentation. The AMS1117 voltage stabilizer can also be replaced with the ADJ version (AMS1117ADJ) - that is, an adjustable version, you will need to set the required voltage with this choice using two resistors connected to the microcircuit in accordance with its datasheet. The most economical option for replacing this stabilizer chip would be to replace it with a zener diode for the required voltage (parametric stabilizer on a zener diode). The values of capacitors in the circuits of voltage stabilizer microcircuits can be varied within wide limits within a given order of magnitude.
As stated above, DHT11 and BMP180 were used as sensors:
DHT11 is used in the circuit only as an air humidity sensor; the sensor transmits data to the controller through the second pin, connected by resistor R8, to the power supply positive. The value of this resistor can be varied up to 10 kOhm. The photo uses two 2.7 kOhm resistors connected in series. Pin 3 of the sensor is not used at all; pins 1 and 4 are used to connect power. The DHT11 sensor was selected in accordance with the optimal price/functionality ratio - for indoor conditions the best option, for outdoor use the DHT21 in a housing more suitable for outdoor use is better suited.
The BMP180 sensor is used both as a thermometer and as an atmospheric pressure sensor. It is chosen for temperature measurement because, unlike the DHT11, it measures ambient temperature to within 0.1 degrees. The BMP180 requires a power supply of 3.3 volts, while the microcontroller is powered by 5 volts. It is to power this sensor that the additional VR2 stabilizer on the AMS1117 is used. Also, for reliable data transfer from the sensor to the controller, you need to agree on the levels of the I2C transmission protocol that is used. For this purpose, the PCA9517 level matching chip from NXP is used. Resistors R4 - R7 are necessary for the operation of the I2C interfaces of the microcircuits. With their help, logical zero and one signals are formed at the pins of microcircuits.
Pull-up resistors keep logic 1 on the I2C data lines at all times. During the logical zero period, the microcircuit drops the voltage created by the pull-up resistor to the ground, and accordingly, the voltage on the line becomes a logical zero level. The values of these resistors should not be too small, otherwise the microcircuit or sensor may not cope with the line falling to zero. It is also not advisable to set very large values so that the logic one potential is set reliably on the I2C data lines.
The picture above shows a diagram of the operation of the I2C interface of the BMP180 atmospheric pressure sensor.
Ratings can vary from 2.2 kOhm to 10 kOhm. When assembling the circuit, a Chinese module based on the BMP180 sensor was used. Such a module contains everything necessary for working with the sensor - a 3.3-volt voltage stabilizer, capacitors necessary for connecting the sensor and stabilizer, as well as pull-up resistors (pull-up to the power supply positive) necessary for working via I2C.
The circuit also provides a microcontroller reset button connected to the PC6 - reset pin, which closes this pin to ground when a reset is necessary. All constant resistance resistors in the circuit are used with a power of 0.25 W or can be used in the SMD version of size 1206. Also, capacitors with a capacity of 100 nF can be used in SMD size 0805 or 1206.
The device, assembled according to tradition on a prototype printed circuit board for the Atmega8 microcontroller in the photo below:
To program the Atmega8 microcontroller for this device, you need to know the configuration of the fuse bits:
The microcontroller operates from an internal 8 MHz oscillator. For programming, a programmer flashed in AVR doper (STK500) was used.
The article includes firmware for a microcontroller for a room weather station, documentation for the BMP180 atmospheric pressure sensor, source code for the microcontroller firmware, as well as a short video demonstrating the functionality of the circuit (a change in the readings on the display is caused by a wet cloth covering the humidity sensor and touching the pressure and temperature sensor with your finger ).
List of radioelements
| Designation | Type | Denomination | Quantity | Note | Shop | My notepad |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| IC1 | MK AVR 8-bit | ATmega8 | 1 | To notepad | ||
| IC2 | I2C interface IC | PCA9517 | 1 | To notepad | ||
| IC3 | Atmospheric pressure sensor | BMP180 | 1 | To notepad | ||
| IC4 | temperature sensor | DHT11 | 1 | To notepad | ||
| VR1 | Linear regulator | L7805AB | 1 | To notepad | ||
| VR2 | Linear regulator | AMS1117-3.3 | 1 | To notepad | ||
| VD1-VD4 | Rectifier diode | 1N4007 | 4 | To notepad | ||
| C1, C3-C5, C7, C8 | Capacitor | 100 nF | 6 | To notepad | ||
| C2, C6, C9 | Electrolytic capacitor | 220 µF | 3 | To notepad | ||
| R1 | Resistor | 22 Ohm | 1 | To notepad | ||
| R3-R7 | Resistor | 10 kOhm | 5 | To notepad | ||
| R2 | Trimmer resistor | 10 kOhm | 1 | 3296W-1-103LF |
Hello dear friends of the site " Radio circuits"! For a long time I wanted to assemble a home weather station, initially it was planned to make an autonomous design with an LCD indicator, etc., but when my hands were almost reaching for the textolite, I had a situation, or rather, in one of the companies in which I work, namely, the air conditioner broke down in the server room. The consequences could have been very sad if I had not needed to go there for other issues, but thank God everything worked out. After this situation, I realized that the idea of a weather station requires urgent implementation, only in a completely different form. , about everything in order. The presented design is a USB gadget to a PC, which transmits data from sensors via UART - USB with an interval of 2 seconds, respectively, a program is installed on the PC, which, in addition to processing and displaying the received data, transmits them, if desired, on a WEB server, by logging into which you can track all the readings in real time and, as you understand, from anywhere in the world, the block of transmitted data looks like this:
- +data
- humidity:xx
- temperature:xx
- pressure:xxx
- -data
Jumpers JP1, JP2, JP3 are designed to “zero” certain values, that is, when jumper JP1 is installed, the humidity value will always be 0, when JP2 is installed, the temperature value will always be 0 and with JP3 the pressure value will always be 0.
Scheme of a homemade weather station
The circuit is very simple and essentially consists of 4 main components. This is an MK, an atmospheric pressure + temperature sensor, a humidity sensor and a USB - UART converter.
I’ll say right away that I bought all the components at a well-known electronic auction, and bought them immediately in the form of ready-made modules. I’ll explain why with ready-made modules, firstly - the price of the sensor (or microcircuit) separately and the price of the module are practically no different, secondly - the ready-made module already has all the necessary hardware, such as pull-up resistors, stabilizers, etc., thirdly - it greatly simplifies the design , and, accordingly, its implementation. Now a little about each module separately.
Pressure and temperature sensor
The BMP180 is a stunning barometric pressure and temperature sensor.
Despite its tiny size, this sensor provides surprisingly accurate readings of both temperature and barometric pressure. The sensor itself has dimensions of ~3x3 mm, the finished module is ~10x13 mm, the sensor power supply is 3.3 volts, so there is a stabilizer on the board. Interface I2C.
The DHT11 is a humidity + temperature sensor that is quite good in its price range. But there is a small minus, this is accuracy. If the error in humidity is quite within normal limits, then with the temperature readings everything is not so good, but we don’t need its temperature data because We will take the temperature from the BMP180. The pins on the module are soldered straight; initially the module comes with angled pins and they are also soldered on the other side.
USB to UART converter
In general, there are a huge number of microcircuits and ready-made USB - UART converters, I stopped there. This module runs on the FT232RL chip, but the manufacturer of this chip is far from FTDI as stated on the body of this chip; in other words, the chip used is a Chinese counterfeit. But there’s nothing wrong with that, except that the FTDI company decided to fight counterfeits in a very cunning way; they released drivers that erase the chip ID on non-original chips, after which the counterfeit stops working. To prevent this from happening, it is enough to use drivers NOT HIGHER than version 2.08.14 and then there will be no problems, you will not notice any difference in the operation of non-original ones. If this happens and the device is no longer detected correctly in the device manager, then nothing is lost; in any search engine you will find a solution to this problem in 5 minutes, I will not dwell on this.
For my purposes, I had to slightly finish the module by re-soldering the pins on it, from angled to straight, and from straight to angled.
To do this without damaging the PCB is quite simple, first you need to use thin wire cutters to separate the plastic bushings between the pins, then unsolder each pin together with the bushing separately, then remove the excess solder and solder the required pins on the right side. You need to flash the MK with the following fuses:
Once all the modules are completed and ready, you can begin assembly. The printed circuit board in my version has a final size of 45 x 58 mm, made using a photoresist method, although in view of simplicity, loot is also relevant here. Download all files for the board and firmware in the general archive.
The entire set of necessary components for the device.
Assembling a weather station
Assembling the device took half an hour, after which there was already a fully functional version of the device.
Now I will share my secrets. After the installation of the PCB is completed, I do the following: I wash off all the remaining flux and debris with a regular solvent, after which I use a toothbrush purchased for this purpose to clean the surface of fibers stuck between the soldering points as a result of washing, then proceed to the next process - varnishing "copper" side of the PP. To do this, first, I cut a window in a sheet of paper to the size of the PP, after which I glue the PP to this sheet with electrical tape, as shown in the figure.
The next stage is applying varnish, for this I use regular automotive aerosol varnish, which is used for tinting headlights and other things, such a can costs about 150 rubles and is sold in any car store. After drying I get this result.
That's it, all stages of assembling the weather station are completed, you can peel off the paper.
And here is the finished, fully working version of the device.
Let me summarize with regards to the hardware. The cost of the finished device, not counting the textolite and consumables used for the manufacture and installation of the PCB, was about 500 rubles.
Program
Now from hardware to software. The program consists of one executable exe file. When you launch it for the first time, the program will step by step “ask” you to make the necessary settings, first the COM port is initialized, the program will display the following window:
Apart from the port number, you don’t need to change anything in the settings! After selecting the port, you must click the " to retry" in the start window of the program. The next step is that the program will “ask” you to make “working” settings.
Here the optimal limits of readings from sensors are indicated, these values affect the graphical display of values in the main program window, a red up arrow means an overestimated value, down means an underestimated value and a green checkmark means normal, respectively. As for the optimal pressure limit, there is not one as such; this value depends on the geographic coordinates of your city, or rather the height at which your city is located relative to sea level; the easiest way is to take the atmospheric pressure limits from an altitude table or by observation.
If you wish, you can specify the program launch option (minimized/not minimized mode). There is one more section - this is the login, password, sending frequency and the checkbox to allow sending data to the WEB server. Here's a little more detail. This setting, if desired, allows sending temperature, humidity and pressure values to the global WEB server meteolk.ru - this is a resource created specifically for this project, in fact it is just a personal account, which contains all the information received by the weather station and nothing else. In order to be able to use this resource, you must first register to be able to further identify the user, to do this, simply go to the site and click “ Registration" So to speak, use it to your health, I don’t mind. On the registration page, enter your name, login and password.
That's it, registration is complete, and your credentials can be entered in the program. This can be done later by going to settings through the “Menu”, not necessarily at the first start. After all the settings have been made, click save and in the program launch window click the “ to retry" If everything is normal, then the program will start and the main window will appear, after which the settings files will be created and upon subsequent launches, no settings will need to be made.
On the menu " additionally"there is an option" read data from controller", I'll explain here. Every half hour, the values of temperature, humidity and pressure are recorded in the microcontroller RAM, there can be 100 such records in total, if it turns out that the program was not launched and you need to look at the statistics, then using this option you can view the data, this is 2 days , if there are any of course. Using “erase MK data”, all previously collected statistics and stored in the RAM are overwritten. In addition to the current displayed values, there are also “max.” values. and “min.”, these are the maximum and minimum values that were recorded during the program’s operation.
That’s all with the program, I won’t dwell on the rest of the menus, I think that everything is already intuitive. Let me return a little to my personal account. After registration, you can log in under your account, by the way, you can also log in under the login “ test" and password " test", this is for informational purposes only. If you have data, you will see this window:
If desired, the data can be viewed graphically, in the form of graphs.
That's all. I hope that you will like my project and find it useful. Bye bye! See you again on the site. Author Vitaly Anisimov.Kaluga.
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