Brick stoves for the home are often the only way to provide heating at home, in a country house or in a cottage. In brick heating stoves, the maximum efficiency value reaches 85%: this is a consequence of the fact that their design does not include “heat consumers”, which take up a lot of thermal energy.
- Brick stoves for home
Brick heating stoves are quite simple to manufacture and operate. The reason for these qualities is the narrow scope of application - for heating rooms (they are not intended for cooking, etc.).
Brick stoves for the home are also sometimes called “Dutch stoves”.
Brick stoves for home
In houses and dachas, the most often used are “Dutch” ones, in which the thickness of the walls is equal to half a brick. If you heat such stoves one to two times a day, you can easily provide comfortable temperature conditions in a medium-sized room.
Taking into account the dimensions of heating stoves, they use two main methods of smoke circulation:
- in small Dutch ovens, where the firebox and the stove itself have common walls, the bell-type smoke channels are located at the top;
- For large stoves, a combined smoke circulation system is used, in which the smoke channels are located on the sides of the firebox and on top of it.
Dutch oven for corner type home
Another type of heating stoves is the “Dutch” corner type. Since they have an angular shape, these ovens are characterized by the fact that they occupy less space, which allows you to significantly increase usable area premises by installing the stove in a corner.
Corner brick kilns are often installed because it is not possible to make a rectangular foundation.
To heat a 2-story house or cottage, use two-tier brick heating stoves. An autonomous stove with its own firebox is installed on each floor.
Modern heating stoves include a grate. With this solution, it became possible to deliver oxygen to the place where wood is burned, in the volumes necessary to ensure combustion. This is the reason that fuel combustion occurs at an intensive rate and with more uniformity. New smoke exhaust systems make it possible to reduce the length of smoke channels. The smoke enters the stove flue circuit before being cooled by excess air.
The above has made it possible to make modern heating stoves more compact, reduce the time spent on combustion, and also improve efficiency.
A diagram for laying a stove for a home is the first thing that a person who decides to install heating in his home using a stove will need. In this material we will look at what layout schemes for home brick ovens exist, what are their features and differences.
Laying a stone stove can be done in the following ways:
- 1. undercut;
- 2. with empty seams;
When arranging a stove using the first method, plastering the stove is not required, since all seams are filled with mortar. The thickness of the kiln walls determines the way in which the bricks are laid. The walls are laid out with a thickness of one brick and half a brick. Sometimes you can find a masonry of 3.4 bricks.
For work on the installation of the furnace, it is imperative to use kiln brick. It is also called “red brick”, solid. Under no circumstances should you use bricks that have been taken from a dismantled building, expanded clay blocks or slotted bricks.
The first row is laid simply with bricks, without using mortar. The brick is leveled, the front wall and the places where all the doors will be located are determined. These operations can be called the last "estimate". When these actions are completed, the bricks are laid with mortar.
After this, they begin to lay the corners. Next stage, according to the advice of experts, this is the arrangement of the contour of the entire stove. Using plumb lines, string is stretched from the ceiling to the corners of the stove. With the help of these vertical lines, you can easily navigate while working.
Considering the model of the stove you have chosen, you should determine the areas in which the following will be located: the ash pan, the combustion chamber, and the ash pan. The door under the ash pit is installed when the third row of bricks is laid, and after one row the ash pit is laid out.
After this, the firebox is arranged. Each door is attached with burnt wire. When you get to laying out the vault, you will need to cut the bricks. A calculation will be required to ensure good joining of the bricks with each other. The laying of the vault begins after the second row of bricks is laid after the firebox door.
To line the combustion chamber, special refractory bricks are used. Because the facing brick and masonry bricks have different temperature characteristics, then the installation of the lining to the furnace itself should not be done rigidly. When installing a chimney pipe, care should be taken to install a special valve, the adjustment of which should be smooth and easy.
Brick stoves for the home - video instructions
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A typical case when a simple stove is needed is a dacha, which provides additional income in family budget. It’s still cold in spring, but work needs to be done. It's still cold in autumn, but it's over seasonal work still needed. Even if you travel without an overnight stay, you need to cook food and warm up a little. Divorce? You will need a lot of fairly high-quality fuel. The fire requires constant supervision and in general it is not always possible to light it according to the requirements fire safety. On a windy day, a fire is of little use at all - the flame blows away. Will help out simplest stove from scrap materials - you can get from it thermal efficiency is more than 40%, while for a fire it is only a few percent; at best 10-15%.
The second case when a simple stove is needed is temporary housing. For example, a utility block or a change house, for example, at a construction site capital house. Should I buy or make my own steel stove? Expensive, difficult, and time-consuming. And steel stoves heat harshly and don’t hold heat for long. A simple brick stove is useful here, which can be installed in a day or two, which does not need to be dried for a long time before starting, and whose weight allows it to be placed on an ordinary plank floor without a foundation. Furnaces for such and similar cases are discussed in this article.
Note: a simple stove is heated in a black way or its chimney made of tin pipes is vented through a window, because according to all the rules, it immediately removes the oven from the category of simple ones.
What does simple mean?
- A person building such a stove does not need to have a deep understanding of the stove business. Ideally, he doesn't need to understand anything about it at all;
- The stove must operate on low-quality waste fuel with a thermal efficiency (this is analogous to the efficiency of heat engines) of at least 35-40%;
- A brick kiln should not require long-term drying after construction and “accelerating” fireboxes to reach the rated thermal power;
- It should consist of no more than 115-120 bricks, so that all the necessary materials can be brought at one time in the trunk passenger car or on a trailer to it;
- Stove fittings (doors, hobs, burners) should be the most common (so that you can use used ones) and/or cheap;
- Masonry brick oven should not contain complex joints, sawn (cut with a grinder) bricks, transitions from red brick to fireclay and steel embedded parts.
Nothing could be simpler
The simplest stove for use primarily outside residential premises can be made literally in a matter of minutes from scrap materials. However, the stove will be quite effective.
The simplest cooking stove made from a leaky bucket (see figure below) has helped the author out more than once in a variety of circumstances, incl. coped with the heating of a small change house without a ceiling under gable roof– there was a portico window under the ridge. The baking tray serves as a catcher for falling coals; if the stove operates indoors, you need to place a fire-resistant lining under it, for example, a few more bricks. There is no need to completely tear the bottom out of the bucket - just turn it around so that the hole is approx. 6 cm in diameter (about the width of a palm).
The good thermal efficiency of this stove is determined by the fact that it partially uses surface combustion of wood fuel. As you know, it is during surface combustion that wood releases the maximum possible amount of heat. In addition, dry high-quality fuel (chips, shavings) is needed only for kindling, and its main load may be damp. Also, branches and wood chips that are not completely dry can be added later; they dry quickly in the oven.
This stove works quite interestingly. Without cooking utensils on the “burner” made of top hole smoke comes first. As the bucket warms up (about 10 minutes), it is replaced by a gentle flow of not very hot gases. If the stove will be used repeatedly, its startup time can be reduced by coating a bucket with clay and dry grass (you can use adobe if you already have one mixed in). The first time after coating, the oven takes a long time to accelerate, up to an hour, until the “phytoconcrete” dries, but then it reaches operating mode in less than 5 minutes.
But if you place a frying pan, pot or pan on the “burner”, the operation of the oven changes dramatically. The fuel combustion intensifies and after 1-2 minutes flames appear from under the vessel. It seems that the cooking utensils keep the not completely burned combustion gases from quickly dissipating, and the influx of fresh air under the burner initiates their post-burning. As a result, the stove, at +5 outside, warmed up a room with a volume of approx. 10 cu. m to a comfortable temperature in half an hour. Her The disadvantage is that it does not retain heat and requires constant supervision, like watching a fire.
Note: In essence, this stove is a modification of a fire in a trench. The thermal efficiency characteristic of stoves is achieved by the absence of heat loss from burning fuel into the ground.
The simplest outdoor stove for a summer residence can also be built dry from bricks, without mortar. Any bricks are suitable, incl. silicate, but you can’t use aerated blocks - they literally crumble before your eyes. Surface combustion and afterburning of exhaust gases take place less in this type than in the previous one, but due to better thermal insulation from the sides and bottom the stove turns out to be less gluttonous. It will only require 9 or 14 bricks, depending on whether the firebox is single-tiered or two-tiered. How a simple oven made of bricks without mortar works is shown in the following. rice. All bricks are regular red working bricks, and those standing upright are highlighted in color just for clarity. The advantage of this stove over a bucket stove is that you can place two vessels on the “burner”; this only increases the efficiency of the stove. Disadvantage - if both vessels are quite voluminous and filled cold water, then until the water warms up to approx. 70-75 degrees, the stove burns and smokes poorly.
Note: using a similar thermal scheme, you can also build a brick oven in 5-10 minutes without surface combustion, with a grate and a blower. Its thermal efficiency will decrease slightly, but the heat output will increase (hourly thermal power), i.e. the stove will not heat for as long, but stronger. For more details, see the video below:
Video: a simple do-it-yourself brick oven
Simple, but long lasting
The described stoves are temporary in the full sense of the word - when the need has passed, they are completely dismantled, as simply as they were made. However, in a commercial dacha or in the outbuildings of a private household, you may need a brick stove with masonry mortar, which is comparable in thermal efficiency to a house stove (60-75%), but suitable for construction directly on the floor without a foundation. The first thing you need for this is a stove masonry mortar. Ready-made dry mortar for laying stoves or stove glue is, of course, technologically simple, but not at all price-wise, so you can study the material about.
The next point that needs to be taken into account is the weight load from the stove to the floor. An ordinary plank floor with joists can withstand 250 kgf/sq.m. m, but building a “real” such a light brick oven is unrealistic. However, it is still possible to place a brick oven without a foundation on the floor and in an easy frame structure provided that the stove will only be on the first floor, see below.
In terms of weight in this case, the well-known summer stove made of 200 bricks is more or less suitable (see figure below). It weighs (without fuel and utensils) approx. 890 kg, and its supporting area is 0.736 sq. m, i.e. its weight load is 1209 kgf. However, you can’t bring the materials for this stove in one car trip, the design is a bit complicated for beginners, and the oven (3 in the figure below) and the hot water tank (4) are unnecessary for a simple stove (other designations: 1 – fire door; 2 – blower door; 5 – cleaning door).
A simple brick oven, the drawings and order of which are given below. Fig., weighs 540 kg. The reduction in the number of bricks to 118 was achieved by eliminating the oven with a water heater, as well as a different, less convenient cleaning arrangement. Support area 0.468 sq. m; weight load 1154 kgf. Although the pressure from this furnace on the floor has not decreased much, all the materials for it can be brought in one trip by car, and the brick undercuts can be made with a hammer or a chisel. Thermal efficiency and heat output remained approximately the same, approx. 60% and 700 kcal/hour.
Note: thermal efficiency of 60% is not such a bad indicator. For example, the efficiency of household burners gas stoves budget and mid-price segments are 60-65%. This is something that would do well to think about before proposing/demanding an increase in gas prices. Unfortunately, the world economy is increasingly leaning from a commodity economy to a resource economy, and economists are thinking less and less about technical capabilities and for the long term.
Single-burner stove, the order of which is shown in Fig. on the right, weighs approx. 400 kg, and its construction requires 87 bricks. Support area – 0.326 sq. m. The pressure on the floor from this stove is approx. of the same, still acceptable size - 1225 kgf, but when transporting materials for it, you can take another passenger, a certain amount of agricultural implements or other payload into the car.
How to distribute the load
A reader familiar with construction may say: ask (option: “Yes, you ..."), 1.2 ton-force per square of plank floor - how’s that? See above: “provided that the stove will only be on the first floor.” And if the floor is arranged correctly.
Let us remind you: the logs of the plank floor must rest on supporting pillars. It is recommended to maintain the pitch of the support pillars within 0.9-1.7 m, but not more than this value. The most logs are timber from 150x75, and the thickness of the floor boards should be from 30 mm (it is better to install 40 mm with a simple tongue). In this case, a local load of 1300 and even 1400 kgf can be placed on the floor, even if it is simple without insulation, i.e. there is no subfloor.
Exactly how to install a simple brick stove on a floor without a foundation is shown in Fig. below. The essence, it will be assumed, is clear: stoves, oblong in plan, are placed between support pillars so that the floor joist falls on the longitudinal axis of the stove. The stoves are rather square in plan and generally compact; they are placed with their geometric center on a pole.
The fireproof blind area in all cases is constructed the same way: sheet asbestos with a thickness of 8 mm, and on it a sheet of roofing steel with a thickness of 2 mm. Felt soaked in clay, as in fig. the design of the stove is rough, it’s the day before yesterday: expensive, difficult, less reliable.
Unconventional approach
In the USA and Southern Canada the so-called. , which actually has nothing to do with jet thrust. We don't really like her. Perhaps because, firstly, understanding how a rocket stove works is simple common sense not easy. Secondly, because the rocket stove is heated with small branch fuel or torches, the preparation of which is labor-intensive, and the very process of its combustion is unusual. However, in countries where firewood “from the forest, of course” can get by with a serious prison sentence, the latter circumstance fades into the background, but at a dacha or construction site littered with lumber waste, it can come to the fore. Moreover, a simple rocket stove cooks, fries, boils no worse than those described, but eliminates the problems of weight loads and transportation of materials: to build a rocket stove, it is enough... 20 bricks, see for example. video clip:
Video: a simple rocket-type stove made of 20 bricks
Note: if any of the described stoves is built at an outside temperature of at least +20 degrees, then it will only take a week to dry it before the first start at the same temperature.
It will cost less to install a stone stove in your home than to install a stone stove yourself, since the cost of stone is higher than brick. If you do not want to build a brick stove or have no experience, then you can install an iron stove, for example, a potbelly stove. At the same time, installing a brick oven is not too difficult, as it seems at first glance; the most important thing is to have a certain amount of patience. Preparatory stage construction involves the construction of a foundation.
The foundation for the furnace must be laid separately from the foundation for the room.
This is necessary to prevent deformation of the furnace foundation from the main one as a result of raising heaving soil under the building. Next, a stove is built using red solid bricks.
What tools and materials should you use to build brick ovens?
Figure 1. Order of a brick kiln.
You can prepare the mortar for masonry in a special container. In any case, you should have it on hand building level for even laying, since each row must have flat surface. Among the main materials for preparing the stove for masonry, the following should be highlighted:
- sand;
- clay;
- red solid brick;
- roofing felt;
- grate;
- pipe;
- tree;
- gravel;
- cement.
Before laying the furnace, you should prepare a carefully designed scheme for constructing a brick furnace, for example, as shown in the figure (Fig. 1). Next, they immediately begin with the preparation of masonry mortar. Concrete should not be used. Typically, clay is mined from a depth of half a meter, then it is cleaned so that it does not contain impurities with stones. The solution should be prepared using clean sand.
Figure 2. Sequence of actions when laying bricks: A – spoon row; B – bonded row.
The clay must be softened before use. To do this, it is placed in water for two or three days to soften it. During the preparation of the solution, the clay is constantly stirred, adding sand to it. Sand and clay can be taken in equal proportions, that is, 1/1.
If the solution is prepared with high quality, then it is homogeneous without various pebbles and lumps. The quality of the solution must firmly ensure an acceptable level of reliability of the furnace and its strength. If you prepare a large volume of solution at once, then if there is no need to use it, it will lose its properties. beneficial features, therefore the masonry mortar is prepared several times during the masonry process.
For high-quality masonry of the furnace, it is necessary to pre-lay out the bricks, which allows you to check the quality of the first row on separate foundation. All work should be based on reference to the diagram of the developed furnace design. Careful use of the solution allows you to carefully seal each seam.
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How to start building a foundation slab for a brick oven
Figure 3. Types of brickwork.
A carefully designed furnace according to the appropriate finished drawing is laid out on a separately constructed foundation, as noted above. The principle of constructing the foundation slab should be the same as for the main building. Pouring the foundation begins with preparing a pit below the depth from which the soil begins to freeze, it can be about 1 meter.
You can fill the bottom of the pit using wet sand, laying a layer on it broken bricks or stone. The size of this layer should be 15 cm in height, and crushed stone is poured on top of it. For creating removable formwork They use specially prepared boards nailed together. The formwork should be made strong, as it must withstand pouring concrete. Quality level concrete pouring will be decisive for the reliability of the entire structure.
After 2 or 3 days, the formwork is removed from the hardened concrete pour, and its surface is covered with tar and roofing felt. All layers of these materials should provide maximum reliable waterproofing of the foundation slab. The remaining space between the foundation and the soil should be filled with sand with coarse grains or a layer of gravel.
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How to make a brick oven in the house with your own hands correctly
Figure 4. Chimney laying.
Tips for laying a brick stove.
The principle of laying a furnace can be based on the following algorithm of actions:
- Construction of the foundation slab.
- Furnace device.
- Laying the furnace in rows in accordance with the order diagram.
- Grate arrangement.
- Fitting bricks.
- Combustion door device.
Among the recommendations for laying a stove in the house there are a number of basic ones. For example, the grate should be mounted in a stove without it resting on the inner walls of the stove, otherwise when heated, the grate expands and deforms the masonry of the walls. The foundation of the stove must be waterproofed. The base of the foundation must protrude at a distance of at least 10 cm. The oven being installed is usually a certain space on the front outer wall of the oven, equipped with a hole for storing equipment.
When making rows of bricks, be sure to carefully adjust them to each other so that there are no gaps between the bricks (Fig. 2), since they must reliably block the smoke channel from the back wall of the furnace. If you cover the cracks with clay, they will still not be processed to the proper level.
The bricks are shifted from the blower by 3 cm to the side, and the left block is shifted forward by 1.5 cm. The tank door is usually wrapped in two layers of asbestos cord at all contact points. Secure the combustion door with three layers of galvanized wire. Using high quality bricks will help avoid the formation of cracks in the brickwork.
Bricks must be moistened with water before laying, and they are laid on the foundation without mortar to create a pattern. It will help check the quality of masonry of brick corners and walls future design ovens. All corners and walls are made straight and even, for which a building level is used.
Despite the development of modern heating technologies, brick kilns are quite often used for heating a house, and this is understandable - they not only effectively heat the home, But and give a feeling of comfort and home.
Stove heating has a number of advantages, thanks to which wood-burning brick stoves have not lost their popularity for several centuries. The most important advantage- ability ceramic bricks, from which stoves are made, accumulate and release heat for a long time.
At the same time, useful for human body radiant energy that gives a feeling of warmth and comfort. With regular heating during the cold season, the house is always warm and dry, and due to the stove draft, natural ventilation. In hot weather, the stove, on the contrary, cools the rooms by removing excess heat into the ground and air through the foundation and chimney.
In addition to creating a comfortable microclimate, a brick oven can carry additional functions, the presence of which depends on the design:
- cooking - boiling, frying, stewing and baking;
- drying clothes, shoes, food;
- heating beds for sleeping;
- opportunity to admire the open flame.
Furnaces that provide several functions are called combined. These types of stoves include fireplace stoves, as well as several popular basic models, including the Russian stove.
U stove heating there is also flaws, these include inability to effectively heat remote rooms. Therefore, in houses large area Usually they install several stoves with separate or combined chimneys or combine stove heating with other types of heating.
IN compact houses, consisting of one or more rooms, the stove is usually located in the center, so that its walls are located in all rooms. The hob and oven are placed on the kitchen side, the stove bench is in the bedroom or children's room, and the open fireplace is in the living room or dining room.Review of brick kilns
The most popular and time-tested basic designs are widely used by stove makers: they make small adjustments to them, adjusting the size and functionality to the customer’s wishes. However, the principle of their operation remains the same, so all brick stoves can be divided into several groups.
Video: DIY masonry master class
It is distinguished by its massiveness, large dimensions and wide functionality.. It consists of an open firebox, which in some cases is closed with a damper, as well as long smoke channels running along all the walls of the stove and heating them well. Sometimes a Russian stove is equipped with another firebox with hob.
, in addition to heating, allows:
- prepare a variety of foods - boil, fry, stew, bake;
- dry clothes and shoes;
- warm a bed or bed used for sleeping and resting.
The efficiency of the Russian stove is not too high - up to 60%, in addition, its firebox requires certain skills. Moreover, heat the Russian stove in winter time it is necessary regularly, avoiding interruptions and cooling the stove body. With periodic heating, condensation forms in a cooled stove, the brick absorbs it and cracks the next time it cools and freezes.
In the summer, the Russian stove is heated regularly or periodically for cooking, while using the “summer” mode, directing the smoke using a damper directly into the chimney. The body of the stove does not heat up.
Advantages of the Russian stove:
- multifunctional, solves a whole range of problems;
- with regular heating in the cold season, it creates an even microclimate in the house without temperature fluctuations;
- decorates the house and gives it a unique national flavor.
Flaws:
- large weight and dimensions - the construction of a massive foundation is required;
- large volume of masonry materials, high price construction;
- complex maintenance, the need to regularly clean the ducts and chimney with your own hands;
- not very high efficiency.
Dutch
The Dutch oven is a fairly popular design of heating stoves, sometimes they are equipped with a hob. This is a channel-type stove - for efficient heating of the walls, it is equipped with smoke channels with a vertical arrangement. Passing through them, the smoke completely burns out and transfers heat to the brick.
The design feature of the Dutch oven is its small footprint, which makes it popular among summer residents and owners small houses. Moreover, the stove can be made to any height, so it can successfully heat two floors. The shape of the stove also varies from square and rectangular to round, but in any case its height is much greater than its width, so the Dutch stove is often compared to a column.
Advantages of the “Dutch”:
- savings on space and materials - it requires two to three times less bricks than a Russian stove, and the cost of its construction is significantly lower, it can be easily folded with your own hands;
- The Dutch oven has rather thin walls and warms up quickly;
- it can be heated after long breaks, immediately bringing it to full power;
- with modest dimensions, the “Dutch” can heat a house with an area of up to 70 square meters.
However, it also has disadvantages:
- Its efficiency is low - about 40%;
- the optimal operating mode is smoldering, which is why the “Dutch oven” is sometimes called a brick oven long burning;
- to ensure good draft, cleaning the stove from ash and soot should be done regularly;
- If you don’t close the view after firing, the stove instantly cools down, so it requires close attention and skill in firing.
Swedish
The Swedish stove has a more versatile design compared to the Dutch stove, and its efficiency is much higher despite its compact size.
A standard Swedish stove is multifunctional; it has a hob, an oven, and two niches for drying shoes and clothes, and some craftsmen complement the Swedish stove with a fireplace or a bed. This is a duct-type stove, which also implements the principle of a bell-type stove - afterburning of flue gases under the arch of the firebox. The oven efficiently heats two adjacent rooms
, usually a kitchen and a room, a Swede cannot cope with heating a large house.
- Advantages of the “Swedish”:
- fast warm-up;
- efficient fuel combustion; special channel design allows heating bottom part
- stoves, thanks to which the floors become warm;
- in the niches located on top it is convenient to dry vegetables, fruits and berries, as well as reheat food;
- You can also dry clothes and shoes in them;
- If desired, you can build a heat exchanger into the stove and heat water for household needs.
Disadvantages of the "Swedish":
- for laying highly heated elements, it is necessary to use fireclay bricks, which increases the cost of its construction;
- to avoid heat loss through the lower part of the stove, you need to make good thermal insulation;
- It is not recommended to completely cool the stove in the cold season, since igniting a cold, damp stove leads to gradual destruction of the masonry.
Bell-shaped
Photo: bell furnace 
One of the most modern developments is . Their difference is the ability to heat up evenly from all sides and retain heat for a long time. Unlike ducted stoves, bell-type or dome stoves do not have winding, narrow channels, so they are no less susceptible to the deposition of solid particles and narrowing of the chimney.
The principle of their operation is as follows: smoke from the firebox rises up, under the hood, where it lingers until it cools, after which it descends down the walls, heating them. The stove can have a whole cascade of hoods in which the smoke gradually cools, so the efficiency of such stoves is very high.
Advantages of bell-type furnaces:
- simple design and a large number of material required for masonry, low price;
- the stove can be heated from a cold state, while it quickly heats all adjacent rooms;
- if you forget to close the damper, the stove will not cool down like a Dutch oven, thanks to the so-called gas view, which prevents reverse draft;
- if desired, it can be equipped with a hob and heat exchanger;
- Even a novice stove maker can build such a stove with his own hands.
This stove has virtually no disadvantages, which is why it is very popular among summer residents and owners of country houses.
Bell-type stoves - great choice for the dacha, country house, cottage. Thanks to any possible number of cascades, it can heat several rooms at once, including on two floors.Long-burning stoves made of bricks - is it possible?
Any homeowner faced with stove heating, tries to reduce labor costs, including the time spent on heating the stove. Therefore, many are interested in the possibility build a brick stove with a long burning mode.
However this impossible for several reasons. The long burning mode implemented in industrial metal stoves involves slow smoldering of wood, which releases a large amount of smoke containing carbon monoxide. Industrial stoves equipped with a long-burning mode have a sealed firebox, so fumes cannot enter the room.
In addition, to ensure slow smoldering of firewood, it is necessary to limit the flow of air into the firebox. In brick stoves this can be done by covering the vent, but it is inconvenient to regulate the air supply in this way.
Partially, the long-burning mode can be implemented in the “Dutch” and Russian stoves. But you shouldn’t rely on the effectiveness of this method; it’s better to choose a design brick stove, allowing you to retain heat for a long time, or purchase - their price is lower than that of brick models, and the efficiency is almost as good as them. 
Basic masonry techniques
Having made a decision, the first thing you need to do is choose a design that meets your needs, find an ordering diagram and a description of the masonry, after which you can start purchasing material and purchased elements. Laying a brick stove requires knowledge of basic work techniques.
- A brick oven requires a foundation, the dimensions of which exceed the dimensions of the oven floor by 100-150 mm on each side. It can be made of reinforced concrete, or made of concrete blocks or rubble stone. The main requirement that must be observed is that the foundation for the stove should not have a rigid connection with the foundation of the house, otherwise seasonal shifts in the soil may cause damage to the stove or pipe.
- To lay a stove with your own hands, two types of bricks are used: red solid brick made of ceramics and fire-resistant fireclay, yellow in color. From fireclay bricks lay the most heated surfaces - the firebox, smoke channels, while using fire-resistant masonry mortar based on fireclay clay. The price of these materials is higher than that of ordinary bricks, so fireclay is used only where necessary. All other elements of the stove and the chimney are made of ceramic bricks, and a solution based on stove red clay or a purchased composition that includes heat-resistant cement is required.
- Purchased elements - grates, doors, views and hobs - are installed in accordance with the diagram. The doors are secured using annealed steel wire at least 30-40 cm long. One end of it is inserted into the holes intended for this in the door frame, and the other end is secured between the bricks on the masonry mortar. The slab and grate are placed on the previous row of masonry in the grooves selected in the brick. To compensate for different thermal expansion bricks and cast iron use asbestos fabric or cord.
- The chimney of a brick stove is usually also made of brick, but you can also use a ceramic block chimney industrial production. It is characterized by a long service life, increased resistance to condensate containing carbonic acid, creates stable draft, and does not clog.
- To give the stove an aesthetic appearance, it can be lined finishing stone, clinker, tiles. The finishing gives the stove not only beautiful appearance, but also protects it from harmful effects water and dust, and although the price of such a stove is slightly higher, its service life is significantly increased.
Video: DIY stove laying
Choice correct design stoves and high-quality masonry are the key to its long and safe operation. A wood-burning brick stove, built with your own hands, will decorate any home; moreover, this heating method is reliable and allows you to create comfort and a favorable temperature regime.
Cooking stoves include kitchen stoves of various designs. They are various sizes and are used only for cooking. Kitchen stoves are connected to main or top pipes.
Brick kitchen slabs
Based on their design, kitchen stoves can be divided into simple, medium and complex.
A simple kitchen stove has a combustion and blower doors, a grate and a smoke damper. It is the simplest of all household stoves.
Kitchen stoves of average complexity have, in addition to the above-mentioned stove appliances, an oven, and complex ones also have a hot water box. Ovens are made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm, and hot water boxes are made of galvanized steel. The casing of the water heating box is made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm. The thicker the steel, the more durable the devices.
Stove with two-burner stove and oven
In a simple cookstove, hot flue gases from the firebox are directed under the cast iron stove and then discharged through an opening under the chimney into the chimney.
In other kitchen stoves, hot flue gases are directed under the cast-iron stove and then, descending, heat the walls of the oven or one wall of the water-heating box, and then are discharged into the pipe, while heating the bottom wall of the oven, the bottom and the other wall of the water-heating box.
The above-mentioned kitchen stoves do not have a cooking chamber, therefore, during cooking, steam and odor are released into the room, which negatively affects the microclimate of the room. This article provides drawings of sections and ordering of a kitchen stove of an improved design, which has a cooking chamber connected to a pipe using a ventilation duct closed by a ventilation valve.
Simple kitchen stove
A simple kitchen stove has dimensions, mm: 1160x510x630 (without foundation, i.e. without two rows of brickwork on the floor).
To lay a kitchen stove, the following materials are required:
- red brick - 120 pcs.;
- red clay - 50 kg;
- sand - 40 kg;
- grate - 28×25 cm;
- fire door - 25×21 cm;
- blower door - 25×14 cm;
- cast iron stove for two burners - 70×40 cm;
- slab trim (angle 30x30x4 mm) -3.5 m;
- roofing steel sheet under the slab - 1160×510 mm;
- construction felt - 1 kg;
One stove maker can build a simple kitchen stove within 3 hours (not counting the masonry chimney), additionally, 1.5 hours are required to carry the material and prepare the clay-sand mortar. To erect a chimney, additional time is required: depending on its height, you need to calculate the time at the rate of half an hour per 1 m of pipe laying (when laying a pipe in a quarter of a brick).
The heat output of a simple kitchen stove when cooking food twice a day is about 0.7-0.8 kW (660-700 kcal/h).
The figure below shows vertical and horizontal sections of a simple kitchen stove. Next, masonry drawings will be given in rows (orders). From the sections and drawings of the masonry along the rows it is clear that the masonry of a simple kitchen stove does not present any difficulties.
Simple cuts kitchen oven: a - facade; b - section A-A (longitudinal vertical section of the furnace); V - section B-B(transverse vertical section). Designations: 1- firebox; 2 - ash chamber; 3 - grate; 4 - smoke valve; 5 - cast iron plate (flooring).
Before you start laying a simple kitchen stove, you should purchase the necessary stove equipment.
Having prepared the clay-sand mortar, proceed to laying a simple kitchen stove. If the slab is placed on a foundation, then level it upward. When laying a slab on a wooden floor, it is necessary to cut a sheet of roofing steel to fit the size of the slab. Place a layer of sheet asbestos on the floor, and if it is not available, two layers of construction felt, well soaked in a clay-sand solution, cover everything with a sheet of roofing steel and nail it to the floor. Then a platform is made from a whole brick in two rows of masonry on clay-sand mortar. After this, they begin laying the slabs from the first row strictly in order.
First row laid, observing the rules for bandaging seams from selected whole bricks, as indicated in the figure below. The completed masonry is checked for squareness.
First row of a simple kitchen stove
During laying second row arrange a ash pit, install a blow-off door, which is attached to the masonry using furnace wire. Temporarily, the blower door at the front can be supported by bricks, which are stacked on the floor in front of the blower door. The bottom of the ash chamber is 380×250 mm.
Second row of kitchen stove
Third row similar to the previous one, but the seams should be well bandaged.
Third row
Fourth row covers the ash door, leaving only a hole in the ash chamber measuring 250x250 mm, on which the grate is placed. If possible, it is advisable to lay the fourth row using refractory bricks, as shown in the figure below.
Laying the fourth row. The shaded bricks are fireproof. The arrows indicate the direction of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace.
Fifth row forms a firebox measuring 510×250 mm. The brick adjacent to the back of the grate is cut off to form an inclined plane along which the fuel will roll onto the grate (see section B-B along A-A). When laying this row, you need to install a firebox door, having previously attached roofing steel legs to it using rivets.
Laying the fifth row of the furnace
Sixth row laid in the same way as the previous one, but the seams should be bandaged.
Laying the sixth row of the furnace
Seventh row placed according to the figure below. This is where a chimney is left under the stove, connecting the firebox to the chimney.
Seventh row of the oven
Eighth row performed strictly horizontally, with this row blocking the combustion door. A cast iron slab is laid on the eighth row laid out using a thin layer of clay-sand mortar. Factory-made cast iron slabs have protrusions or stiffeners on the bottom side that extend 15 mm from the edges of the slabs.
Eighth row of the oven
The internal dimensions of the eighth row of masonry must be such that the slab fits freely with its ribs and has a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides, intended for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. If you do not comply with this, the cast iron stove, expanding, will destroy the stove masonry. To ensure that the masonry is strong, a frame made of angle steel is laid on the eighth row. It is advisable to cover the frame with fireproof varnish, which protects the steel from rust.
After laying ninth row Using a thin layer of clay-sand mortar, install a smoke damper. This row is the final one, followed by the laying of the chimney.
The final row of a simple kitchen stove
The kitchen stove works as follows. Flue gases from the firebox enter under the cast-iron stove, then through a hole under the pipe through a smoke valve they are discharged into the chimney.
The kitchen stove does not have a cleaning hole, since the chimney can be cleaned through the hole under the pipe, where it is easy to stick your hand through the burner of the cast-iron stove.
An example of laying a hob
Firstly, in a kitchen stove the fire door is installed flush with the grate. In the stove, flue gases are constantly maintained in the chimney high temperature, as a result of which it is not necessary to place thick fuel on the grate. Secondly, with this installation of the combustion door, the distance from grate to the cast iron stove will be only 280 mm, which makes it possible to quickly cook food even with low fuel consumption.
After finishing laying the furnace, it must be dried by opening the furnace and blower doors and the valve in the pipe.
The longer the oven dries, the stronger the masonry will be. The kitchen stove can be dried using small test fires, but after the test fires, the valve in the pipe and the blower door must be left open.
After complete drying, the kitchen stove is plastered with clay-sand mortar, followed by whitewashing.
Exterior finishing is best done as follows: after laying the eighth row and installing the cast iron slab, as well as before installing the corner steel frame, the kitchen slab is walled up on all sides in a case made of roofing steel (galvanized steel can be used). Pre-cut the corresponding holes according to the size of the combustion and blower doors. The case is secured to the floor using a plinth, which is nailed around the slab. Outer surface The cases are cleaned and coated with oven varnish, which can withstand high temperatures well.
Before combustion door The pre-furnace sheet is nailed to the floor with nails 50 mm apart from each other. If the plinth was nailed earlier, then the pre-furnace sheet must be folded onto the plinth.
Kitchen stove with oven
The kitchen stove with oven has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x560 (without foundation, i.e. without two rows of brickwork on the floor).
To lay a kitchen stove with oven, the following materials are required:
- red brick - 140 pcs.;
- red clay - 60 kg;
- sand - 50 kg;
- grate - 26×25 cm;
- fire door - 25×21 cm;
- blower door - 14×25 cm;
- cleaning doors 130×140 mm - 2 pcs.;
- cast iron stove made of five composite plates measuring 53x18 cm with two burners;
- smoke valve - 130×130 mm;
- oven - 45x31x28 cm;
- slab binding (angle 30x30x4 mm) - 4 m;
- pre-furnace sheet made of roofing steel - 500×700 mm;
- roofing steel sheet under the slab - 1290×640 mm;
- construction felt - 1.2 kg;
- metal box for collecting ash in the ash chamber - 350x230x100 mm.
One stove maker can put this stove together within 3-4 hours; in addition, it takes about 2 hours to carry the material and prepare the clay-sand solution. The heat transfer of the stove when cooking food twice a day is about 0.8 kW (770 kcal/h). The picture below shows general form, longitudinal and cross sections of a kitchen stove with oven. Below are the order drawings for each row. Laying a kitchen stove with an oven is also not difficult and is similar to laying a simple kitchen stove, but here you have to install an oven and cleaning doors.
Kitchen stove with oven: a - general view; b - cuts A-A, B-B (vertical sections), B-C, G-G (horizontal sections). Designations: 1 - ash chamber; 2 - grate; 3 - firebox; 4 - cast iron plate; 5 - oven; 6 - smoke valve; 7 - combustion door; 8 - blower door; 9 - cleaning holes.
When laying slabs on an independent foundation, before starting work, level its top with a layer of clay-sand mortar.
When installing a slab on the floor, before starting to lay the first row, it is necessary to carry out the same work as when laying a simple kitchen stove.
Masonry first row made from selected whole bricks, strictly adhering to the rules of bandaging the seams. The length of the kitchen stove should correspond to the length of five bricks, the width - to the length of 2.5 bricks. Using a cord, check the equality of the diagonals.
Laying the first row of a kitchen stove with an oven
Second row laid out strictly following the order. Here an ash chamber measuring 380×250 mm is left, a blower door is installed and secured, and cleaning holes are left on the back wall (the width of the holes should be equal to the width of the brick, i.e. 12 cm). If possible, cleanout doors measuring 130×140 mm are installed. At the cleanout hole at the farthest from the ash chamber, a brick is laid on its edge, as shown in the masonry order. To better secure the oven, place half a brick on its edge in the middle of the installation site.
Laying the second row of the slab
Third row similar to the previous one, only you must follow the rule of ligating the seams.
Laying the third row of the slab
Fourth row covers the blower and cleanout doors. After finishing the laying of the fourth row, an oven is installed on a thin layer of clay-sand mortar at a pre-marked place. After this, a grate is installed. With the same brick installed on the edge, the chimney into the chimney is blocked.
Laying the fourth row of the stove with oven
During laying fifth row The combustion door is installed and secured, the brick is cut off before installation behind the grate so that the fuel gradually rolls onto the grate during the combustion process.
Laying the fifth row of the slab
Sixth row looks like the fifth one.
Laying the sixth row of the slab
Seventh row laid out in order. The resulting chimney channel from the front side is laid using three bricks, as a result of which inner size the resulting channel under the chimney will be 130x130 mm. In the image of this row near the oven, a steam pipe with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 160 mm is visible, which connects the oven to the rising duct. This pipe is designed to remove steam and odor.
Laying the seventh row of the stove with oven. The arrows indicate the direction of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace.
Eighth row
perform strictly horizontally in level. This row covers the oven and the fire door. The upper wall of the oven is coated with a layer clay mortar thickness up to 10-
15 mm, which will protect the oven from rapid burning.
Laying the eighth row of a brick oven (before installing a cast iron stove)
In this case, it is necessary that the distance between the top of the clay coating and the cast iron plate is at least 70 mm. After this, a cast iron slab and lining made of angle steel are installed on a thin layer of clay-sand mortar.
Eighth row of brick oven (after installing the cast iron stove)
After laying ninth row All that remains is the laying of the vertical channel. The ninth row is placed according to the image below.
Ninth row of the oven
After laying tenth row install a smoke damper.
Tenth row of the oven
Masonry eleventh row start the chimney. Further laying of the pipe does not present any difficulties.
The final row of the furnace (the masonry of the chimney is not taken into account)
A kitchen stove and oven works like this. From the firebox, flue gases are directed under the cast-iron stove, from where they, heating the oven from behind on both sides, fall under the oven and are directed to the hole under the chimney. Rising through a vertical channel, they enter the chimney through a smoke valve and are released into the atmosphere.
Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box
To lay a kitchen stove with an oven and a hot water box measuring 1290x640 mm, the same materials are required as for the previous stove. Additionally, you should purchase a water heating box measuring 510x280x120 mm.
The figure below shows a general view, a horizontal section along A-A and a vertical section along B-B of the slab.
Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box: a - general view; b - cuts. Definitions: 1 - firebox; 2 - cast iron plate; 3 - oven; 4 - water heating box; 5 - smoke valve; 6 - ash chamber; 7 - angle steel harness
A kitchen stove with an oven and a hot water box is placed in the same order as a kitchen stove with an oven. The only difference is that after laying the third row, instead of a brick partition, a water-heating box in a case is installed on the edge between the oven and the vertical channel. The height of the hot water box should correspond to the height of four rows of flat brickwork. The rest of the masonry is completely similar to the masonry of a kitchen stove with an oven.
Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box of improved design
In rural areas, kitchen stoves are used not only to prepare food for people, but also to cook feed for livestock and boil laundry when washing. During combustion, a lot of steam enters the room and foreign substances are released unpleasant odors. Because of this, the air humidity in the room increases, which negatively affects its microclimate. Therefore, to remove foreign odors and steam in kitchen stoves, it is advisable to provide cooking chamber, which is connected to the chimney using a ventilation duct. A ventilation valve must be installed in the ventilation duct.
Installing a double door in the cooking chamber allows you to keep food hot for a long time and thus prevent it from souring.
Cooking chamber in a brick oven
The firebox and ash chamber (ash chamber) are closed from the outside with appropriate doors. Top surface oven protect from hot gases with a layer of clay mortar 10-12 cm thick. It is advisable to lay the kitchen stove from the fourth to the ninth row from refractory bricks (especially the firebox).
An example of covering an ash pit
It is advisable to make the kitchen slab up to the ninth row of masonry from sheet steel, and to enhance its strength, after installing the frame on a clay-sand mortar, install a frame made of angle steel. Since the mass of such a slab will be more than one ton, it is installed on an independent foundation.
If it is impossible to construct an independent foundation, the floor must be strengthened with additional beams, which are mounted on brick columns. Instead of brick pillars you can use pillars made of hardwood logs, reinforced concrete pillars, iron pipes with a cross section of at least 180-200 mm.
The kitchen stove has an improved design and is equipped with a “direct” valve. During prolonged heating of the stove, evaporation of water in the water heating box is possible. To stop this you need to add a little cold water and open the “direct” valve. In this case, the flue gases from under the cast iron stove do not go down, but immediately go into the chimney. As a result, the water heating box stops warming up and the evaporation of water in it stops.
Example of a “direct” valve
To make it easier to clean the ash chamber from ash, a special roofing steel box measuring 350x230x100 mm is installed in it. This prevents contamination of the room when cleaning the ash chamber from ash.
A kitchen stove of this design has the following advantages compared to the previous kitchen stove with oven and hot water box:
- during cooking, steam and foreign odors do not enter the room, which are removed into the atmosphere through the ventilation hole;
- food cooked on the stove in the cooking chamber remains hot for a long time and does not sour during the day;
- With the help of a “direct” valve, it is possible to cook food without warming up the water heating box and thereby preventing further evaporation of the water in it.
The figure below shows a general view of the kitchen stove from the front; here are also drawings of sections of the stove in the most difficult places. Drawings of the masonry along the rows will follow, and they give a comprehensive idea of the internal structure of the slab. Using the orders and drawings for the rows, you can fold the slab yourself, without the help of a stove maker.
Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box of improved design: a - facade; b - sections A-A, B-B, c - sections B-C, D-G, D-D, E-E. Definitions: 1 - blower door; 2 - combustion door; 3 - oven; 4 - cooking chamber door; 5 - smoke valve; 6 - ventilation valve; 7 - “direct” valve; 8 - water heating box; 9 - cleaning holes; 10 - cast iron stove.
A kitchen stove with an oven and a hot water box of improved design has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x1330.
The following materials are required for masonry:
- red brick - 250 pcs.;
- fire-resistant brick - 80 pcs.;
- red clay - 180 kg;
- sand - 90 kg;
- combustion door - 250×210 mm;
- blower door - 250×140 mm;
- grate - 280×250 mm;
- oven measuring 250x280x450 mm;
- cast iron stove with two burners - 700×400 mm;
- water heating box - 250x140x510 mm;
- pre-furnace sheet - 500×700 mm;
- strip steel measuring 400x250x6 mm;
- door to the cooking chamber - 750x350x5 mm;
- corner steel for tying a slab measuring 30x30x3 mm - 4.1 m;
- strip steel for covering the cooking chamber measuring 450x45x4 mm - 4 pcs.
A stove can be assembled by one stove-maker in 18-20 hours; preparing the solution and carrying the material requires an additional 6 hours.
To fold the stove with the firebox on the left side, you need to look at the drawings using a mirror placed edge-on on the drawing.
The kitchen stove is laid out as follows. Masonry first row produced on a foundation built to floor level. The first row determines the main dimensions of the slab. The length of the slab is equal to the length of a laying of five bricks in clay-sand mortar, and the width is equal to the length of 2.5 bricks.
First row of improved cooker with oven and hot water box
During laying second row two cleaning doors and a blower door are installed in front. They are attached to the masonry using furnace wire.
Laying the second row of the furnace; 1 - blower door, 9 - cleaning holes.
Masonry third row produced according to the order, it is similar to the previous row. After laying the third row, a water heating box is installed.
Laying the third row of the furnace; eleven - steel sheet 3 mm thick.
Firebox fourth row they are laid from refractory brick; in its absence, sorted first-class red brick is used. The fourth row covers the cleaning holes and the blower door, forming the beginning of the hearth. After laying the fourth row, a grate and oven are installed.
Laying the fourth row of the furnace
Masonry fifth row presents no difficulties. The brick adjacent to the back of the grate is cut off halfway to form an inclined plane.
Laying the fifth row of the furnace; 3 - oven.
Before masonry sixth row prepare the combustion door, for which strip steel is attached to the top and bottom with rivets, which should be 10 cm longer than the combustion door on both sides. For greater strength, the ends of the strip steel are screwed with furnace wire, the ends of which are embedded in the masonry. The door is installed on a clay-sand mortar, having previously wrapped the frame of the combustion door with asbestos fiber.
Laying the sixth row
Masonry seventh row secure the base of the combustion door.
Laying the seventh row
Eighth row blocks the water heating box.
Eighth row masonry
Ninth row covers the fire door and oven. The top of the oven is protected from burning through a layer of clay mortar 10-12 mm thick. It is advisable to lay this row entirely of refractory bricks.
Ninth row masonry
After finishing the laying of the ninth row, a cast iron slab is installed above the firebox on a clay-sand mortar. The large burner of the stove is placed above the firebox. Next to the main plate, an additional one is placed, made of a steel sheet measuring 400x200x6 mm. After this, angle steel is laid, to which the lower frame of the cooking chamber door is welded. For strength, it is advisable to tie the angle steel through special holes in it with furnace wire, which is attached to the masonry.
Installation of a cast iron stove on the ninth row; 12 - steel sheet 6 mm thick; 13 - angular steel.
Tenth row They are made of ordinary red brick. WITH right side leave a window for cleaning the “direct” channel. Some of the bricks that cover the slab are cut with a pick before laying so that if the slab breaks, it can be easily replaced.
Laying the tenth row
Masonry eleventh row does not present any difficulties, you just need to follow the rules for dressing the seams.
Eleventh row of the oven
Twelfth row blocks the cleaning window.
Twelfth row of the oven
After laying Tthirteenth row a “direct” valve is installed on the clay-sand solution.
Thirteenth row of the oven; 6 - ventilation valve.
Masonry fourteenth row must correspond to the level of the upper frame of the door to the cooking chamber. Angle steel measuring 45x45x800 mm is installed next to the upper frame of the door to the cooking chamber.
Fourteenth row of the oven
Fifteenth row blocks the door to the cooking chamber.
Fifteenth oven row
Sixteenth row blocks the “direct” channel.
Laying the sixteenth row of a kitchen stove
Masonry seventeenth row provides ventilation duct to remove odors and steam from the cooking chamber.
Laying the seventeenth row of the kitchen stove
After finishing the masonry eighteenth row Four pieces of strip steel measuring 4x45x500 mm are installed above the cooking chamber to cover the cooking chamber.
Laying the eighteenth row of a kitchen stove
Nineteenth row covers the cooking chamber. After finishing the laying of this row, a ventilation valve is installed.
Laying the nineteenth row of the kitchen stove; 6 - ventilation valve.
Masonry twentieth and twenty-first rows is not difficult, you just need to bandage the seams well.
Laying the twentieth row of a kitchen stove
Laying the twenty-first row
Masonry twentysecond row reduces the size of the chimney, it will be 130x130 mm.
Laying the twenty-second row
Twenty-three and twenty-four ranks put in order.
Twenty-third row of the oven
Twenty-fourth row
After laying twenty fifth row install a smoke damper, which is also a control valve.
Laying the twenty-fifth row of the furnace; 5 - smoke valve.
Masonry twenty-sixth row start the chimney. Laying a chimney is not difficult.
Laying the final row (not counting the chimney)
After finishing the laying of the stove, before coating it, clean the chimneys from fallen mortar and crushed stone residues through cleaning holes. Holes for cleaning are then filled with brick halves in clay-sand mortar.
When installing the cleaning doors, they are closed tightly, and leaks are covered with clay-sand mortar.
After this, the stove can be dried in two ways: by opening the combustion and blower doors and valves, or by using small test fires. After complete drying, the slab is plastered with clay-sand mortar, and after drying the plaster, whitewashing is performed twice. A pre-furnace sheet is nailed to the floor in front of the fire door.
Do-it-yourself brick oven: step-by-step masonry instructions + photos
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