Despite the large number modern methods heating, the stove does not lose its popularity. It can still be found in many country houses to maintain comfort and create a favorable atmosphere.
However, the stove will serve for a long time and efficiently, giving off heat, only if the following questions are answered:
- Where is the best place to place the stove?
- What materials and tools are needed for the work?
- What should be the solution for the oven?
- How to properly lay a stove?
Where is the right place to place the stove?
When thinking about how to fold a stove with your own hands, you need to place it correctly. To do this, the following conditions are taken into account:
- The walls of the smoke channel must be located from wooden structures at a distance of at least 40 cm
- The chimney is allowed to be installed at the same level as the ridge projection if it is located at a distance of 1.5-3 m
- If the distance from the ridge to the chimney is 1.5 m or less, the latter should be 0.5 m higher
- If the pipe is removed more than 3 m from the ridge protrusion, its height can be made lower, but the angle between the roof slope and the line that connects the upper section of the pipe and the ridge should not exceed 10 degrees
Read also the guide on how to do it yourself
The foundation of the house and the stove have their own specific characteristics, so it is not permissible to combine them with each other.
Materials and tools
Regardless of the type of stove chosen, the work involved in their construction is very similar, and the structures themselves have minor functional differences from each other. On the technical side, they will differ in versatility, degree of impact and size.
Source building materials For the construction of brick kilns the following are used:
- wire
- lime with sand
- brick
When purchasing the latter, you need to ensure that it is in the correct shape and has a sufficient level of firing.
To prepare the solution, you can use refractory, red or even ordinary clay. It will also be required auxiliary equipment, which can be purchased at the markets:
- Required doors and dampers
- Views and sliders
- Grate grates
- Cookers with burners, etc.
In addition to materials and components for the stove, you will need to prepare a set of working tools (level, plumb line, milk brush, usually a stove-maker's hammer, level, etc.).
Preparing the mortar for laying the stove
The mortar for a home brick stove is a clay-sand mixture. The sand must be sifted through a sieve so that its cell sizes do not exceed 1.5 mm. At this time, the clay should be soaked in water for 2-3 days. It would be a good idea to pass the finished solution through a sieve (3x3 mm). Each stove maker chooses the proportions for himself.
Having mixed sand and clay, you need to add water and begin to mix the resulting mixture until a thickness similar to rich sour cream is formed. A high-quality mortar should be placed on the brick in a clot and spread in a layer of 4-5 cm (recommended joint thickness).
Arranging a brick oven
When everything necessary has been collected, and the foundation has managed to solidify reliably, they begin to solve the main question of how to build a stove with your own hands - brickwork. It should be noted that there are a huge number of order options and only one will be considered further - Swedish. It is great for heating and cooking. Before starting work, it is recommended to keep the brick in water for up to 10 minutes.
All information about the furnace must be shown in the drawings. They can reflect both the entire structure and its individual parts or cutouts. For each row, horizontal dimensions are given - orders.
As an option for heating the room, you can use an electric boiler...
The most important is the first row - it is necessary to strictly control the angles, vertical and horizontal. Having made mistakes, even minor to the eye, they will make themselves felt in the future.
It is customary to place the blower in a niche with right side. But to make it easier to remove ash from it, the inner sides are combed into a cone in the direction of the chamber. Very often you will have to use not a whole brick, but a certain part of it. It is better to cut the pieces with a special diamond-coated disk, but do not beat them with a hammer.
After installing the blower door, the laying of the second row begins. In this case, dressing is done with a displacement of 30-50% for greater stability of the structure.
The height of the third row should coincide with the top edge of the door. In this case, you must remember to trim the edges of the brick, forming a cone inside the blower for more easy removal ash.
Row four is laid on the left. First, install the cleaning door. A U-shaped channel is made. It is necessary to place it above the ash pan. square hole, while closing the ash door.
The fifth row has practically no differences from the fourth, but the hole above the ash pan needs to be narrowed a little more.
It is necessary to prepare the refractory brick before starting to lay the sixth row (it will be in the place of the hatching). If this is not possible, a regular one will do. In this case, it is necessary to support the grate on the fifth row. Between it and the bricks a compensating small gap of up to 15 mm is required, which is filled with sand or sand.
In the seventh row, it is necessary to block the previously formed U-shaped channel so that it forms three new ones. A firebox door is placed on the sixth row.
The eighth and ninth rows are placed similarly to the seventh. They should reach the top of the fire door.
In order for the flue gases to smoothly pass into the channel from the firebox, it is necessary to scrape off the bricks that block the left channel and the firebox partition.
When laying out the tenth row, you need to ensure that it is strictly vertical. A cooking floor will be laid on top of it, which cannot be mowed, otherwise cooking will be extremely inconvenient. The fire door is completely closed and two strictly square channels are left.
The question of how to build a brick oven with your own hands is half resolved. The cooking floor covers the combustion chamber, resting on the tenth row. The edge of the bricks that will be in contact with it must be combed, forming a gap of up to 2 cm. A small door for the combustion chamber is immediately installed and the eleventh row is laid out. Two square channels remain on the left.
The twelfth and thirteenth rows are laid almost identically. The main difference is that at first both square channels are combined into a single one, and in the next row they are separated again.
The fourteenth row is installed in a similar way to the previous one, but in it one channel is blocked by a damper. When closed, you can use the cooker without letting the stove heat up.
In the fifteenth row the valve is closed, and in the sixteenth row the combustion chamber door is closed. To remove odors and ventilate the cooking section, it is necessary to install a door between it and the channel already closed by the valve.
In the seventeenth row, it is necessary to lay steel strips above the cooking chamber, which will allow the chamber to be blocked. In normal heating stove a dome-shaped ceiling would have to be built.
The next two rows cover the cooking area, but both square channels remain untouched.
Two bricks are placed on the surface of the cooker on edge, 40 cm away from the back wall. Doors for cleaning and the samovar pipe are immediately installed. The next row is laid by analogy.
In the twenty-second row it is necessary to close the doors. Three longitudinal channels are made above the cooking area (11, 5 and 11 cm, respectively), on the left - the same two square ones. In the twenty-third row, the longitudinal channels are covered with bricks laid transversely. The next row is done in the same way.
By analogy with the twenty-second, rows 25-26 are placed.
In the twenty-seventh row you need to lay three bricks at the same distance and distance from the walls. This leaves only one square channel. By analogy, the next two rows are laid.
In the thirtieth row, it is necessary to completely block the heat chamber, leaving one smoke channel, which is closed with a valve. The next two rows are laid with a slight offset relative to each other. Three such rows guarantee fire safety.
All that remains is to install a simple chimney for the stove.
Detailed video instructions for laying a stove with your own hands
In conclusion
The given order of the Shvedki stove is one of the most common today. It not only makes it possible to heat the room, but also to cook food. Increasingly, such a design can be found in country houses.
But the question of how to build a stove with your own hands turned out to be difficult and there is no confidence in your efforts - before starting work, you should contact a stove maker or a person who has already built similar designs. He will certainly give you a lot of valuable advice.
A stove is a multifunctional, technically complex structure. Within its boundaries, fuel is processed, heat is produced and combustion products are removed to the outside. If you plan to lay a stove with your own hands, you must strictly follow the rules that have been proven in practice for centuries to guarantee the normal operation of the unit.
Those who want to know how to ideally build a brick stove will find here detailed information on all important issues of interest independent master. In the presented article, the technological specifics of the structure are presented in great detail, the main postulates of stove makers and significant nuances are scrupulously listed.
The information we provide will provide effective assistance in the construction of a brick kiln. All its components will perform their duties flawlessly, and the structure itself will last for many years without complaints. To help home craftsmen, we have selected sequence diagrams, photographs, and video recommendations.
Before you start building a stove, you should decide on its purpose. Heating, cooking and drying units have significant design differences that must initially be taken into account. There is also a reasonable difference in the procedures developed by stove makers for precise brick laying.
There are many furnace structures, which can be divided into groups according to purpose:
Image gallery
It will cost less to install a stone stove in your home than to install a stone stove yourself, since the cost of stone is higher than brick. If you do not want to build a brick stove or have no experience, then you can install an iron stove, for example, a potbelly stove. At the same time, installing a brick oven is not too difficult, as it seems at first glance; the most important thing is to have a certain amount of patience. Preparatory stage construction involves the construction of a foundation.
The foundation for the furnace must be laid separately from the foundation for the room.
This is necessary to prevent deformation of the furnace foundation from the main one as a result of raising heaving soil under the building. Next, a stove is built using red solid bricks.
What tools and materials should you use to build brick ovens?
Figure 1. Order of a brick kiln.
You can prepare the mortar for masonry in a special container. In any case, you should have it on hand building level for even laying, since each row must have flat surface. Among the main materials for preparing the stove for masonry, the following should be highlighted:
- sand;
- clay;
- red solid brick;
- roofing felt;
- grate;
- pipe;
- tree;
- gravel;
- cement.
Before laying the furnace, you should prepare a carefully designed scheme for constructing a brick furnace, for example, as shown in the figure (Fig. 1). Next, they immediately begin with the preparation of masonry mortar. Concrete should not be used. Typically, clay is mined from a depth of half a meter, then it is cleaned so that it does not contain impurities with stones. The solution should be prepared using clean sand.
Figure 2. Sequence of actions when laying bricks: A – spoon row; B – bonded row.
The clay must be softened before use. To do this, it is placed in water for two or three days to soften it. During the preparation of the solution, the clay is constantly stirred, adding sand to it. Sand and clay can be taken in equal proportions, that is, 1/1.
If the solution is prepared with high quality, then it is homogeneous without various pebbles and lumps. The quality of the solution must firmly ensure an acceptable level of reliability of the furnace and its strength. If you prepare a large volume of solution at once, then if there is no need to use it, it will lose its properties. beneficial properties, That's why masonry mortar prepared several times during the laying process.
For high-quality masonry of the furnace, it is necessary to pre-lay out the bricks, which allows you to check the quality of the first row on separate foundation. All work should be based on reference to the diagram of the developed furnace design. Careful use of the solution allows you to carefully seal each seam.
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How to start building a foundation slab for a brick oven
Figure 3. Types of brickwork.
A carefully designed furnace according to the appropriate finished drawing is laid out on a separately constructed foundation, as noted above. The principle of constructing the foundation slab should be the same as for the main building. The foundation begins to be poured by preparing a pit below the depth from which the soil begins to freeze, which can be about 1 meter.
You can fill the bottom of the pit using wet sand, laying a layer on it broken bricks or stone. The size of this layer should be 15 cm in height, and crushed stone is poured on top of it. To create removable formwork They use specially prepared boards nailed together. The formwork should be made strong, as it must withstand pouring concrete. Quality level concrete pouring will be decisive for the reliability of the entire structure.
After 2 or 3 days, the formwork is removed from the hardened concrete pour, and its surface is covered with tar and roofing felt. All layers of these materials should provide maximum reliable waterproofing foundation slabs. The remaining space between the foundation and the soil should be filled with sand with coarse grains or a layer of gravel.
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How to make a brick oven in the house with your own hands correctly
Figure 4. Chimney laying.
Tips for laying a brick stove.
The principle of laying a furnace can be based on the following algorithm of actions:
- Construction of the foundation slab.
- Furnace device.
- Laying the furnace in rows in accordance with the order diagram.
- Grate arrangement.
- Fitting bricks.
- Combustion door device.
Among the recommendations for laying a stove in the house there are a number of basic ones. For example, the grate should be mounted in a stove without it resting on the inner walls of the stove, otherwise when heated, the grate expands and deforms the masonry of the walls. The foundation of the stove must be waterproofed. The base of the foundation must protrude at a distance of at least 10 cm. The oven being installed usually represents a certain space on the front external wall oven equipped with a hole for storing equipment.
When making rows of bricks, be sure to carefully adjust them to each other so that there are no gaps between the bricks (Fig. 2), since they must reliably block the smoke channel from the back wall of the furnace. If you cover the cracks with clay, they will still not be processed to the proper level.
The bricks are shifted from the blower by 3 cm to the side, and the left block is shifted forward by 1.5 cm. The tank door is usually wrapped in two layers of asbestos cord at all contact points. Secure the combustion door with three layers of galvanized wire. Using high quality bricks will help to avoid the formation of cracks in the brickwork.
Bricks must be moistened with water before laying, and they are laid on the foundation without mortar to create a pattern. It will help check the quality of masonry of brick corners and walls future design ovens. All corners and walls are made straight and even, for which a building level is used.
The problem of heating country houses and country houses associated with the lack of a central supply of coolant and gas. Many have already become disillusioned with metal potbelly stoves, but a small brick stove - built with their own hands - gives comfort and warmth, which cannot but rejoice.
Brick stoves for country houses
Advantages
In the last two to three decades, modern metal furnaces have taken an undisputed monopoly in individual construction. This is caused by a number of factors:
- Comparatively cheap compared to;
- Easy to assemble and install;
- Short deadlines for installation of the heating device at the place of final operation;
- High efficiency and firewood savings declared by the manufacturer;
- The apparent complexity of building a brick kiln and the difficulties associated with finding a worthy specialist in this field, fear self-construction such a monumental object;
- No need complex work with the roof when installing a chimney pipe;
- Relative compactness, which is important for a country house;
- Manufacturers' advertising campaign metal furnaces, asserting their undeniable advantages.
However, once the owner of a metal device once finds himself in a room equipped with a stone stove, his views change radically.
It is impossible to deny the fact that the heat produced by such a stove is incomparably more comfortable and pleasant. The room is easy to breathe, has a pleasant smell, a special atmosphere and comfort.
The food cooked in a stone oven is also different. Special temperature regime, the taste of smoke and the oven effect give it a unique taste and aroma.
In addition, there is a lot of data on some medicinal properties thermal radiation emanating precisely from warm clay, heated to 70 - 75 ° C. Let's not go into the jungle of physics and biology, let's note the fact itself.
So, the advantages of a brick kiln, collected in a single list:
- Huge heat capacity and inertia of the device. It is enough to heat such a stove once, and it will continue to radiate heat into the room for a long time. Even in severe frosts, the number of fireboxes does not exceed two per day;
- The oven does not overheat outside, and it is impossible to get burned on it, which is extremely important for families with small children;
- The oven does not dry the air the way its metal counterparts do;
- Thermal radiation is much softer, not as aggressive and heavy as from steel and cast iron surfaces;
- Firewood consumption is less (a controversial opinion, but many owners agree);
- Incomparably longer period operation;
- The smallest brick stove creates more coziness and comfort than the largest metal stove;
- Easily heats large volumes of water, and if you install a coil or register, warm water will always be;
- You can bake in the oven and firebox large number bread and other flour products, as well as prepare porridge and other dishes;
- Even small brick stoves look great and decorate the interior, creating an inexplicable comfort and special ambience in the room.
Advice! Any wood-burning heating device is a potential source of danger, as it produces carbon monoxide. Therefore, you should not take on complex large ovens, but DIY small brick oven- a very real option.
Naturally, there is nothing ideal and absolute, so it is necessary to talk about the difficulties and disadvantages of stone heating devices.
Flaws
Since we have listed the advantages brick stoves, let's be fair and remember the shortcomings. We do not conduct an advertising campaign, so we are not afraid of objective assessments.
So, among the disadvantages of stone stoves, the following features can be listed:
- A very labor-intensive construction, especially for a person who has no experience in the construction of such products;
- This is quite a costly undertaking, especially if you involve an experienced stove maker; the price of the efforts and skills of these guys is definitely high;
- There is a risk of unsuccessful construction, and remodeling a monolithic stone structure, as you understand, is not the easiest task;
- The danger of operating a faulty or improperly constructed stove is associated with poisoning carbon monoxide, which can lead to very sad consequences;
- Requires more space in the house than its metal counterpart, although today everything appears more projects small stoves, which practically eliminate this disadvantage;
- High inertia is associated with a fairly long warm-up and kindling, so it may take several hours to heat the room well.
Advice! If you use your dacha for rare raids of a day or two in the warm season, and also in the cold season, then there is no point in starting the construction of a brick oven, since warming up will take three hours, and in the meantime you will be packing back. A brick oven is needed by people who love country holiday and allow themselves to spend long winter weeks at the dacha.
This is where the question of the purpose of the stove arises. Obviously, stoves come in different designs, sizes, and functions.
Purpose of furnaces
Another important point- This right choice configuration, design and purpose of the stove. Since we are talking about a dacha, we should proceed from the requirements of temporary suburban housing.
In general, there are four main types of stoves:
- Heating;
- Cooking;
- Baths;
- Mixed.
Strictly speaking, sauna stoves can be classified as a specialized subtype of heating devices. But we will not delve into the intricacies of classification, since this activity is, in general, useless.
Let's just say that for a dacha I would like to have a mixed type - something like, since it is irrational to arrange a separate heater and stove from the point of view of saving space.
Therefore, we can voice the requirements for a country brick stove based on all of the above:
- Simplicity of design so that you can master the construction with your own hands;
- Compact size, this is a dacha, not a castle or residence;
- Multifunctionality, that is, a mixed-type oven with which you can cook food, heat water and warm up the house.
Construction of a country stove made of bricks
We will need a clay-sand solution, building brick(double sand-lime brick M 150 will not work, you need a clay one), trowel, bucket, mixing trough, plumb line, level, asbestos cord, fireclay brick, doors, valves and other stove fittings, galvanized steel wire, hammer with pick, grinder with disc for concrete.
The oven will take up 0.4 m², and its weight will be insignificant, so you can do without a foundation. If your floor is weak, then it is better to make a screed under the masonry.
So, laying a small country stove step by step:
- On the place chosen for the stove we place roofing felt or glassine measuring 530×780 mm for waterproofing;
- Pour sand one centimeter thick on top and level it;
- According to scheme No. 1 (the figure at the beginning of the paragraph), we lay out the first row of bricks without fastening them together, and level it using a level;
- Apply a thin layer clay mortar. We take the blower door, wrap it with a double layer of asbestos cord and secure it with twisted wire.
- Lay out the second row of bricks.
- We take fireclay bricks and lay out the third row. After its formation, we install the grate. Observe the gaps on thermal expansion materials up to 1 cm.
- Using a brick placed on an edge, we lay out the fourth row. Inside the chimney we make stands for internal partition. We place the “kick-out bricks” of the rear wall without clay with a slight protrusion outward.
- Install fire door, pre-wrapped with asbestos. We fasten it with twisted wire and temporarily fix it with two bricks: we put one on the back of the butt, the other on it and the door on top.
- We lay out the fifth row flat along the contour of the fourth, and the sixth on the edge. We wipe down the chimney walls with a wet rag.
- We lay the seventh row flat from three-fours (we cut off 3/4 of the whole brick with a grinder) to connect with the eighth row. The back wall is on the edge again.
- In the eighth row, we close the firebox door with two bricks above it. We install a beveled brick above the firebox to center the flame under the burner.
- We place the ninth row offset back (slightly) to keep the door open. Before laying, we lay out wet asbestos cord to seal the joints of the brick and the hob.
- In the tenth row we begin the formation of a chimney, which will gradually expand backwards. We will make an attached pipe, so as not to displace the center of gravity of the structure, or a mounted one made of light iron.
- In the eleventh row we lay a valve, seal it with an asbestos cord coated with clay.
- Next comes chimney in a quadrangle, which connects to a light metal pipe.
- Now we take out the knockout bricks and clean bottom part chimney from debris.
- We close the gap between the first row of bricks and the floor with a metal L-shaped sleeve and nail the baseboard.
- We whitewash the stove or cover it with stove varnish, seal all the joints between the metal and the brick. Metal parts Can be painted with black fireproof paint.
- We make a test fire with paper and small branches, then give it 2 weeks to dry.
As you can see, all the manipulations are not so difficult to do on your own. Material and labor costs are relatively small, and the construction does not take up much space.
At the same time, we received a heating and cooking device that will perfectly heat a small country house, will give your cooking a unique taste and aroma of smoke, create a pleasant atmosphere and comfort.
Advice! If there is an opportunity to invite a person more or less experienced in the stove business, at least as a consultant, be sure to take advantage of it, since building stoves from a book is quite difficult, it’s better to see it once.
Conclusion
Brick stoves are considered bulky, expensive and difficult to build. However, it is easy to verify specific examples that these opinions are somewhat exaggerated, and it is possible to build an inexpensive compact country stove made of brick, and independently.
In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.
In the last century, the Russian stove was a multifunctional device. This is room heating winter time, at the same time it is hot and healthy food, the possibility of preserving the crop through drying, and household amenities in the form hot water. It cannot be said that a Russian brick stove is an ideal device. The disadvantage of a stove as a heating system is uneven heating. Modern stoves are designed to heat the room to its full height.
The Russian stove consists of the following parts and elements:
- Opechek– used for storing and drying wood.
- Cold stove- a small recess in which various utensils are stored.
- Six- area on which you can place the pot.
- Under- this is the floor of the cooking chamber. It has a slight slope towards the mouth, for convenient movement of heavy utensils. It needs to be polished well.
- Cooking chamber- a place for laying firewood and cooking food. The roof of the furnace also has a slope.
- Overpipe- camera above the pole. The chimney pipe is located higher.
- Dushnik- a special hole for connecting the samovar pipe.
- View- closing door.
- Bed- horizontal surface, located behind the chimney. You can easily sleep on it in winter.
More common nowadays is the improved Russian stove. 
It is distinguished by heating the underfloor part, due to which heating the room becomes more comfortable.
For laying the combustion chamber, fire-resistant bricks made of fireclay clay. The remaining part of the structure is made of ceramic bricks.
Almost every oven has metal or cast iron parts, for example, doors and dampers. They can also be prepared in specific quantities. You will need the following items:
- Doors: firebox and blower, as well as a cleaning door, ventilation door for the chimney.
- Grate;
- Metal valves;
- View;
- Furnace damper;
- Water box;
- Plate;
- Steel strips.
To lay out certain parts - arches and vaults - you need easily disassembled templates. They are made from wooden and plywood elements and parts. 
Preparation of masonry mortar
Masonry mortar, unlike ordinary mortar, is much more difficult to prepare for furnace work. You can also buy a ready-made mixture in the store. But, if you decide to build a Russian stove with your own hands, then you can prepare the solution yourself.
Solutions for laying stoves are selected depending on:
- If solid brick grade M150 is used for masonry, then use clay-sand mortar. It is also used for lining the stove with special ceramic tiles;
- Used for laying refractory bricks based on special refractory clay with the addition of sand;
- When using fireclay bricks use refractory clay mortars;
- In between attic space brick pipes placed using cement-sand mortar;
Usually the oven is located at interior wall, which has a shallow foundation. To ensure independence of the foundations, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5 cm between them, and pour sand into it. And the upper edge of the foundation should not reach the floor level by 14 cm.
If the oven is placed at outer wall, on a buried strip foundation, then it will be necessary to expand the pit and backfill it with sand and gravel with careful compaction. Next, the stove is installed with a certain gap from the base of the house, the so-called offset. Sand is poured into it, and its end walls are formed with brickwork.
If you decide to install the stove in the opening, then you just need to connect the ends lower crown. This can be done using strips of steel, which are placed on the logs on both sides and tightened with special bolts. Next, the opening is framed with special wooden stands. Necessarily between them and future furnace There must be a circulation gap, also called a cutting gap. Under the wall in the foundation of the house there should be a gap that will be equal to the width of the stove base on each side.
Laying a Russian stove with your own hands - ordering
The main requirement for laying a furnace is tightness. That is why only whole bricks without any cracks are used for the stove, and the seams are made thin - no more than 5 mm. You should not achieve airtightness by coating all the walls of the oven with clay from the inside - this will reduce thermal conductivity and increase deposits of soot and soot. In addition, the clay flakes off and clogs the channels inside the oven, which will be quite problematic to clean. Today the following methods are used:
- brickwork- at this method the wall thickness will be equal to the length of the brick;
- half-brick masonry- here the brick will be laid flat along the wall;
- quarter masonry- i.e. the brick will be laid on edge.
The dressing of the seams will take place thanks to the use of alternately bonded and spoon masonry in the corners or a non-full-size building material.
If used ceramic brick, it must be pre-soaked, as it will “pull out” all the moisture from the solution.
During the installation process, be sure to remove excess mixture, especially on the inside of the stove. External walls lay the stoves “in brick”, and the internal ones - “in half a brick”. Laying rows is the order of masonry actions in each subsequent row. Thanks to this process, anyone can build a Russian stove.
First row They are laid from burnt bricks; they absorb little moisture. For the first row, the corners are laid out from cut bricks.
Second row It begins with laying the walls of the furnace, the clearings are laid in front and on the left side. As a rule, an ash pan is formed on the front part on the right side of the furnace.
IN third row Cleanings on the left are laid without solution. Blower and cleaning doors are installed on the front side. The doors are mounted using burnt steel wire, it is installed in the cuts in the bricks and secured with masonry mortar.
IN fourth row the bottom channels are blocked.
On fifth row install the grate of the small firebox. To install the inside of the firebox, refractory bricks are used; they are also laid without the use of mortar.
IN seventh row installation in progress grate firebox stoves, walls and the first firebox are mounted. The right wall needs to be strengthened with a steel strip.
IN eighth and ninth row Laying of walls and internal channels continues. The firebox doors of the stove and small firebox are installed.
IN tenth row the arches of the first and second firebox will be connected. Cover the bottom of the furnace. And the smoke circulation channels lead into the furnace.
IN next row A steel corner is mounted on the front edge of the masonry, and a slab is installed on top. The space of the right firebox is covered with a special removable grate.
IN twelfth row laying of the front walls of the furnace and the side walls of the slab begins using refractory bricks. The furnace damper is installed. To the left of the stove they begin to form the lower part of the chimney.
WITH 13 to 16th row The laying of the furnace walls continues and the mouth of the furnace is blocked.
IN seventeenth row a certain narrowing of the furnace roof and expansion of the main chimney begins. And the back wall of the furnace is strengthened with a steel tie.
IN 18th row the roof of the furnace will be covered, and the laying of the front wall of the furnace will begin, which will form the overtube.
IN 19th row The front wall of the furnace is strengthened with the help of a screed; the walls are being installed above the furnace, forming a certain space for backfilling.
IN 21st row the stove is closed, and the overpipe will gradually narrow towards the chimney.
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