Plasterboard structures are becoming an indispensable attribute of every renovation. Using them you can do various designs inside the room. To do this, you need to choose the right type of drywall, select fasteners and profiles for it. The process itself, if carefully studied, is quite simple, the material is easy to work with, and fasteners do not require much effort.
Types of profiles for drywall and rules for their installation
The most commonly used are the following varieties:
- Guide. Used as a horizontal base for vertical posts. It is marked with two in capital letters– Mon. Selected based on the following dimensional characteristics;
- Rack profile (PS). Made in the form of a channel made of galvanized sheet. The flanges of its cross-section have longitudinal grooves that provide the required rigidity. It is secured with self-tapping screws when constructing vertical frame posts for the construction of walls and partitions;
- Ceiling profile (PP). It is made of the same cross-section and from the same material as the rack-mount one. The reliability of the entire structure will depend on knowing how to properly attach the drywall profile to the ceiling. There are three longitudinal grooves in its back and shelves. The outermost ones are responsible for rigidity, and the central groove allows for precise fastening of drywall sheets (GKL);
- Angular. It strengthens the corners of the structure after the main work with drywall. It is marked (PU), made at 90o. This profile protects the external and internal corners facing from mechanical damage. It is made of galvanized perforated tape, on the surface of which there are small holes. The solution penetrates through them and ensures reliable adhesion of the profile to the overall structure;
- Arched profile (PA). It can be concave or convex. It is used not only for decorating windows and doorways, but also create complex wavy suspended structures.
Using the listed profiles, frames are erected. They largely depend on the correct installation of the profiles. Several rules for their installation should be taken into account:
We carry out markings for the frame made of profiles
This step must be completed correctly. It will depend on him appearance design and its reliability.
Let's consider step by step work:
- the perimeter of the new structure is marked. The most prominent point is located. A distance equal to the width of the profile is set aside from it and a small allowance of a few millimeters is laid;
- using a tape measure and a prepared marking cord, the line obtained on the floor is transferred to the ceiling;
- stepping back half a meter from the doorway, mark the PS attachment points and draw vertical lines in increments of 500 mm;
- A separate frame should be made near the doors and windows, for which you need to make your own markings.
Installation of the ceiling profile is also carried out along previously drawn lines. Along the entire perimeter of the ceiling required level mark the grid, marking the attachment points of the U-shaped brackets intended for the PP.
Before installation, you need to think about how best to attach the gypsum board to the profile so that its joints are not noticeable in natural light.
Ceiling mount
The ceiling frame is a mesh of ceiling profiles, fixed to the ceiling with guide analogues and U-shaped brackets. You can also use quick hangers. A natural question arises: “How to attach profile hangers? » They are mounted in increments of 500 mm under the attached supporting profile. And then their ends sticking down are pushed apart. If direct hangers are selected, then the profile is attached to them with self-tapping screws with a press washer. And for analogues with traction, it snaps onto their special protrusions.
A mesh of profile strips is mounted on one side in increments of 400 mm, and on the other - 2.5 meters. During installation, the PN is controlled by level, and the supporting profiles are attached along a tightly stretched thread. Excess sections of the profile are cut off at an angle of 45o. Installation process ceiling structure you should start with the corner parts and then move on to the straight ones. Watch the video for more details on how to attach the profile to the ceiling:
Wall mount
It's a little different from ceiling mounting. According to pre-made markings on the ceiling and wall, profile guides are installed and the frame is made.
How to make a sheathing for plasterboard on a wall
- The sealing tape prepared in advance is glued to the front surface of the PN. It is fixed on the floor. Which self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws to fasten the guide profile depends on the floor material and its thickness;
- Then you need to draw vertical lines along the wall. They must be perfectly level, so a plumb line or laser level;
- Along these lines, hangers should be attached in increments of 50 cm. Their middle must necessarily coincide with the line - guideline, which was obtained during marking;
- The wall profile must be inserted into the guide and attached to the hangers with self-tapping screws. Vertical guides must fit into the cavities of the floor and ceiling profiles.
The frame is ready. GCR is attached to it. This is done with dowels, the parameters of which depend on how the drywall screws are selected.
Frame reinforcement
Hiding communications or uneven walls leads to a large gap. This determines how to make lathing for gypsum boards on the wall. Or rather, additional nuances of its execution. In the described case, the frame needs reinforcing strips. They are made from plasterboard sheets. If the room is 3 meters high, then it will be enough to use one amplifier in the middle of the profile. It must be at least 40 cm long. A profile of the same size is attached to the wall. A support is attached to it at one edge, and its second edge is screwed directly into the profile. It should be chosen in width greater than the distance from the wall to the profile. And then the excess is removed with a knife.
Frame insulation
Drywall sheets themselves are good insulation materials, and thanks to the resulting gap between them and the wall, you can achieve an even greater effect - by putting insulation in it. It can be polystyrene foam, glass wool or isolon. The first type, due to the fact that it is supplied in sheets, is easy to work with, but can be damaged by rodents and has low sound insulation.
Fiberglass is different affordable price and good thermal conductivity, but during installation it can get on the skin or mucous membranes and cause irritation. Izolon is recognized as the most the best insulation. It has high noise absorption and low thermal conductivity. It is convenient to work with him.
Answers for beginners
The following questions often arise when installing a frame:
What self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws are used to secure the guide profile?
To install the PN, plastic 6-mm dowels are selected, and screws with a diameter of no more than 5 mm are selected for them. The length will depend on the width of the floor slabs and the density of their material. IN concrete structures there are voids, so experts advise using impact or flared types of dowels.
How to choose self-tapping screws for profiles and drywall?
For such fasteners, 25 mm and 32 mm screws with a horn-type head are used, which can penetrate into the material without destroying it. The first type is used for installing single-layer slabs, and the second - double-layer. These indicators exclude questions about how to choose self-tapping screws for gypsum boards.
How to attach with glue?
Some structures do not have a frame, so they are attached with glue. To do this, the surface must first be cleaned of the old coating and primed. Glue one side of the gypsum board. Then select the corner from which installation will begin and coat it thickly with glue. Then retreat 600 mm - width plasterboard and apply the composition again. Place a sheet of material against the prepared area.
IN plasterboard structures the main thing is a correctly executed frame. How to attach gypsum plasterboard panels to the profile depends on the reliability of installation of its metal guides.
Gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL) are very convenient and profitable facing material, giving an unsurpassed result among the price-quality ratio building materials. Most often, the ceiling is made of plasterboard, and if you do not know how to attach drywall to the ceiling correctly, then this page is at your service.
In addition, here is a video on this topic that will help you clearly understand the intricacies of installation.
Installation of plasterboard ceilings
Ceiling markings
Ceiling markings
Installation of a metal frame
- Along the line marked around the perimeter, screw the UD profile so that it bottom part coincided exactly with the line.
For fastening, it is best to use a plastic dummy dowel with a diameter of 6 mm and a screw with a diameter of 4-5 mm. The length of the screw and dowel will depend on the density of the wall.
- Attach U-shaped hangers along the lines marked on the ceiling. To attach the pawn, it is better to use internal holes rather than ears, since the suspension attached to the ears will be pulled back a couple of millimeters under the weight of the gypsum board, and this will disrupt the level of the plane.
The diameter of the dowels and screws needed is the same as for the wall.
Advice. IN concrete floors there are voids and in order to prevent the dowel from falling into them, you need to use flared dowels or, if there are none, impact dowels.
But the factory impact dowel-screw ratio is too weak, so the screw should be replaced with a thicker one.
- Now cut the CD profiles to the required length and insert them into the UD profiles installed around the perimeter.
Cut the profile 5 mm shorter than the absolute distance between the walls, and it will fit freely. - In order to level the CD profiles, you need to stretch a thread under them, and in order to prevent these same profiles from pulling the thread, bend each middle suspension under the profile, pulling it above the level of the plane.
- Stretch the nylon thread from wall to wall, across the CD profiles, securing it to the UD profiles with small self-tapping screws.
- You align each profile along a stretched thread, fastening it to the hangers with small self-tapping screws for plasterboard profiles.
You fasten the CD profile to the UD profile in the same way. Bend the protruding ends of the hangers to the sides. - Disconnect all the electrical wires needed for lighting and hide them in a corrugated cable channel. Next, we will look at how to attach drywall to the ceiling, or more precisely, to a metal frame.
Installation of plasterboard sheets
Advice. Since you need to attach drywall without tearing through the paper on the sheet, use a drywall attachment for this.
It is equipped with a special lampshade, which, when screwed in, rests against the sheet, controlling the depth of recessing of the cap.
- Do not forget to route wires through the plasterboard for lighting in the right places. If, when installing drywall, some sheets did not meet by a few millimeters, do not be upset - these cracks will be filled with putty or fugenfüller.
- We looked at how to attach drywall, and now we need to prepare it for putty. To do this, all screws that are screwed in are sealed with putty.
- The seams between the plasterboard sheets can be glued with adhesive mesh tape and then puttied (see).
You can also seal these seams with fugenfüller, which is also a putty, but when hardened it has great hardness and strength. - After the sealed seams and screws have dried, you can begin to putty the drywall.
Conclusion
We looked at some of the nuances of such arrangement as plasterboard on the ceiling - how to fix it correctly and how to prepare it for finishing. To install more complex multi-level and figured ceilings, you need to learn how to make smooth single-level ceilings in the living room, bedroom, understanding the structure of which will allow you to go further and assemble more complex structures.
Carried out using metal profiles, less often on a wooden frame
The most common type of design for attaching plasterboard to the ceiling is P113. Basically, as we discussed earlier, the starting profile is PN 28*27 and PP 60*27.
It would seem a simple ceiling, but more and more often it is carried out with errors and violations of technology. As a result, cracks appear on the plasterboard ceiling and other troubles.
What points should you pay attention to when installing drywall on the ceiling yourself or when accepting work from repair teams?
A few words about the acceptance of plasterboard ceilings. The ceiling design should be adopted in stages:
- Correct installation of the drywall frame
- Compliance with the design (or idea) of laying low-current and power wiring.
- If it fits soundproofing material, then this stage must also be controlled.
- Careful sealing of drywall joints.
What to visually pay attention to before sealing with putty:
- Are the plasterboard sheets securely attached to the frame?
- Self-tapping screws should not push through the cardboard. It is correct if they are deepened by no more than 1mm.
- There should be no cracks, torn cardboard, swelling or peeling, or broken corners.
Back to the basics of attaching drywall.
Fastening drywall. Direct suspension. Installation errors
To attach direct hangers to the load-bearing base, the developer clearly states in the documentation that a metal anchor dowel is used. Photo of the table below.
The nylon dowel-nail (6*40) is used only for attaching the guide profile to the walls.
I conducted an experiment especially for this review.
Secure the direct hanger using nylon dowels 
And he loaded it, pulled the suspension down with pliers. 
With a slight load, one of the dowels was pulled out by 4mm. 
When attaching a direct suspension using a wedge anchor, you can hang on it with all your weight. It won't move! 
What happens if you violate the technology for installing drywall and attaching hangers using nylon dowel-nails?
Let’s remember which ones, now it’s not difficult to understand that over time the dowel will sag or a nail will come out. This will cause the frame to sag and cracks to appear on the plasterboard ceiling.
It is unlikely that they will be corrected with cosmetics; the frame for the drywall will need to be corrected.
It is also worth noting the side fire safety, with a seemingly insignificant violation of technology and the use of a fastener unit not intended for this purpose.
If a fire occurs, the nylon dowel will melt and the nail, loaded with the weight of the drywall, will fly out of it, which will lead to the destruction of the frame and the collapse of the ceiling.
Do not allow non-professionals to install and fasten drywall in your apartment. Accept work carefully and step by step. And if you are renovating your apartment yourself, read Remontofil, there are still many secrets ahead. For example, . What is it and how to install it correctly.
Today we will learn how to attach a drywall profile to a wall. In other words, in this article we will completely build a metal frame, on which we will then mount large sheets gypsum board
How to attach a drywall profile to a wall. Crocodiles
The question of how to attach a drywall profile to a wall begins with attaching U-shaped hangers, in common parlance - crocodiles. In the previous lesson, we marked on the wall the places where the crocodiles will be attached:
If the wall is old wooden or made of plaster, then the hangers should be attached to the wall using a screwdriver and wood screws. If the wall is concrete or brick, then to attach the hangers to the wall you will need a hammer drill and 60x40 or 60x50.
So, we take the hanger and place it against the wall so that the central vertical marking line runs exactly in the middle of the hanger (as if dividing it into two parts), and the horizontal line goes through the holes in the hanger through which we will attach the hanger to the wall:
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